Places to Stay
For a fuller list of places to stay, you should consult a written travel guide such as
Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide. However, this section reviews some of the places that I
am familiar with.
Tropical Hotel, Manaus (Phone: +55 92
658-5000; Fax: +55 92 658 5026)
The upmarket (and expensive) Tropical Hotel is popular with foreign tourists and wealthy
Brazilians. It has a large area of landscaped grounds, a swimming pool, tennis courts and
other recreational areas, and its own mini-zoo. The hotel has several restaurants, and
there are regular shuttles for guests wishing to travel into town. The Tropical Hotels
chain is owned by the Varig airline company (who have an office inside the hotel). Room
rates are supposedly discounted for Varig passengers, but it would pay to check this out
when you book. Unfortunately for me, the Tropical Hotel was beyond my budget, but probably
isn't recommended for travellers wishing to discover the "real" Brazil. Airport
transfers are available for airline passengers arriving in Manaus.
Monaco Hotel (Phone: +55 92 622-3446; Fax: +55 92 622 1415)
The Monaco Hotel is a
mid-priced hotel, popular with tourists and middle-class Brazilians. The hotel is a relic
of the 1960s, and sometimes things don't work quite like they should – but its fun
and its friendly. One quiet afternoon in the restaurant, I witnessed the waiter
entertaining bored children by pushing them around the restaurant floor on a chair! The
place has an atmosphere which one travel writer described as like "something out of a
Jim Jarmusch movie" (all I need is someone to tell me who Jim Jarmusch is!)
The Monaco is situated within walking distance of the Manaus Opera House and the centre
of town, and its close to a small park with amusement rides and occasional street
performances. Close by, you will also find a bakery, supermarkets, places to eat, and an
ice cream parlour. The hotel has its own restaurant and a swimming pool on the top level,
and the offices for Aria· Towers are located in the lobby downstairs. Airport
transfers are available for airline passengers arriving in Manaus.
Budget Hotels
Manaus's budget hotels are concentrated in area of Avenida Joaquim Nabuco and Rua dos
Andradas, located close to the docks. Some of these hotels are downright grungy. Most
rooms are simple and come equipped with a fan offering little relief from the heat. There
are shared showers and toilets which, although cleaned regularly, are sometimes in a poor
state. I was warned to be careful when walking around these streets at night –
although I never had any problems.
Apart from price, other advantages of staying in this area is that its a relatively
short walk to the docks, and there are lots of cheap places to eat nearby. I stayed in Hotel
Iguassu on Avenida Joaquim Nabuco – which was very hot and grungy, but friendly
and safe. It cost US$8 for a single room. Double rooms are $US10, and apartments $US25.
There are lots of hotels to choose from, so you might want to have a look around. Avoid
the Hotel Paraφso since they have reputation for theft.
Obviously, these cheap hotels don't arrange airport transfers. If you want to get there
from the airport, you can take a taxi (US$ 27) or wait at the bus stop (exit the terminal
and walk 100 metres to the right) and catch a local bus into the city (US$ 1).
More Information
As mentioned above, check the information in your travel guide since this will list many
more hotels. Also check out the following websites.
Jungle
Lodges Near Manaus |
Aria· Towers (Phone:
+55 92 234-7308; Fax: +55 92 233 5615)
A vist to Aria· Towers is well worthwhile for
first-time visitors to Manaus and the rainforest. The 3-day pack included visits to local
villages, a rainforest walk, piranha fishing, and a nightime search for jacarΘs. There
are monkeys and colourful macaws all around the treetop hotel. Airport transfers
available for most flights.
Terra Verde (Green Land) Lodge (Phone: +55 92 234-7308;
Fax: +55 92 233 5615)
This owned and operated by one of the area's most interesting people – Zigmunt Sulistrowski, a former Hollywood film
director and ecologist who purchased an 11,000 hectare area of virgin rainforest in 1976.
The area has been kept as a reserve, which forms an important ecological
"island" since settlers moved into surrounding areas. Although originally
independent, the lodge at Terra Verde now works in conjunction with Aria· Towers –
although its a little more basic, quieter and more secluded. Close to the lodge is an old
house formerly belonging to one of the rubber barons. It is currently being restored for
use as a scientific research station. A canoe ride through the flooded forest is an
unforgettable experience – but just watch out at the Rφo dos Ossos (River of Bones),
supposed home of a giant anaconda.
Amazon Fishing Lodge (Phone: +55 92 234-7308; Fax: +55 92
233 5615)
Also associated with Aria· Towers is this fishing lodge. It has 18 rooms and caters for
guests whose interest is sports fishing. It has a variety of boats and canoes to take
guests to the best fishing locations. The lodge is sometimes also used as a location for
films and television – including the movie Anaconda.
Other lodges include:
Amazon Lodge; Amazon Village; Kings Island Lodge
(Phone: +55 92 622-4144; Fax: +55 92 622 1420; Internet: http://natsafaris.com)
Acajatuba Jungle Lodge (Phone/Fax: +55 92 233-7642)
Pousada dos Guanavenas (Phone/Fax: +55 92 233-5558)
Apurissara Floating Lodge (Phone: +55 92 671-3525; Fax: +55
92 671 1415)
Lago Salvador (Phone: +55 92 658-5000; Fax: +55 92 658
5026)
SantarΘm is less visited by
tourists, but still has a reasonable selection of hotels. A few of these are mentioned
below.
Tropical SantarΘm (Phone: +55 91 522-1533; Fax: +55 91 522
2631)
Another in the Tropical chain. Reputedly not up to the same level of pampering as the
Tropical Hotel in Manaus – but it's undoubtedly the place where visitors stay when
expecting all the comforts. Unfortunately its located away from the waterfront and the
centre of town.
SantarΘm Palace Hotel (Phone: +55 91 522-5688; Fax: +55 91
522 5993)
Mid-priced hotel, with large air-conditioned rooms.
Hotel Alvorada (Phone: +55 92 522-5340)
Located close to the waterfront and the centre of town, this budget hotel is quirky and
full of character. If I was ever going to write a book full of quirky characters this is
where I'd do much of my research. For this reason its my favourite hotel in Brazil even
though its actually very basic. The rooms cost US$12 for single and US$18 for a double.
Standard rooms have a fan, although air-conditioned rooms are also available. The best
rooms (in my opinion) are those at the front of the hotel, which have a small balcony.
When it gets hot in the afternoons I recommend opening up the balcony, hanging up a
hammock, and snoozing. The balcony is great for watching the world go by (you can also see
the waterfront). In the evenings, music drifts in from the open-air Restaurant Mascote
across the street. Best of all, the people are friendly, helpful, and very talkative.
This is a small town in a beautiful area located about 30 kilometres out
of SantarΘm. The area is becoming a popular location for local people to spend their
holidays, and for tourists passing through the region. There are several small pousadas
(inns).
Pousada Alter do Chπo (Phone: +55 91 522-3410)
This is probably the best place to stay in Alter do Chπo. This is a simple inn located on
the waterfront. It's small and simple, but comfortable and includes a delicious breakfast
on the veranda overlooking the beach. Rooms cost US$25 per night.
Other pousadas include:
Tia Marilda (Travessa Antonio Agostinho 599)
Pousada TupaiulΓndia (Phone: +55 91 523-2157)
Like Manaus, BelΘm also has lots
of hotels to choose from – ranging from cheap accommodation used by the locals to the
luxury accommodation of wealthy Brazilians and overseas visitors.
BelΘm Hilton (Phone: +55 91 222-5611; Fax: +55 91 225
2942)
This is the city's foremost luxury hotel, with a wide range of tourist activities and
packages. Well, at least it it looked good from the outside.
Central Hotel (Phone: +55 91 242-3011; Fax: +55 91 241
7177)
This is a large old fashioned hotel, situated on Avenida Presidente Vargas, close to
Praτa da Rep·blica, the Teatro da Paz, and city bus stops. Standard rooms cost US$35,
and are comfortable, with air conditioning, private bathroom, telephone, TV and a frigobar
(cheaper rooms are available without these for US$25). Breakfasts are included. Prices are
reasonable but, best of all, they are willing to negotiate discounts.
Hotel Fortaleza (Phone: +55 91 2411-5005)
This budget hotel is located on Travessa Frutuoso Guimarπes, several streets back from
Avenida Presidente Vargas. Its a good cheap place to go when you've just gotten off a
riverboat. Rooms cost US$10 per night, including breakfast. Rooms and bathrooms are clean,
and the hotel is generally well run – although the woman who runs the place sometimes
sneaks out on drinking binges (and can be seen skulking around the following morning
nursing a hangover).
I recommend budget travellers to avoid Palßcio das Musas, which has
reputation for theft, and the Transamazonas Hotel – described by one
traveller as having plastic sheets and being a dive of the worst sorts (what I saw of the
outside was bad enough!).
On Ilha de Maraj≤ I stayed at Pousada Marajoara. This was fine, though
I found the lack of activities on the island a little boring – although photographers
might like it for the scenery. I was able to hire a bicycle so that I could go exploring -
but I think the extra expense of arranging a fazenda (farm) stay with activities such as
horse riding and guided tours may be more worthwhile. Alternatively you might be able to
hire a motorcycle or car to explore further.
Pousada Marajoara (Phone: +55 91 741-1287 or +55 91 223
8369)
This is an old tourist hotel which, although not as flash as it once was, is still a
comfortable place to stay. Its located in Soure, close to the ferry stop (for the
ferry/bus ride from BelΘm). During my stay I found that prices could be negotiated down.
The hotel also has its own restaurant – which was great since Soure doesn't have a
wide range of other places to eat.
Brasφlia is a modern city, and the centre for Brazil's government
agencies. Prices are generally more expensive in Brasφlia – especially the hotels.
Most hotels are overpriced, charging between US$70 and US$100 per night for rooms that
aren't particularly good. Most provide very sterile and bland surroundings. Strangely,
many of Brasφlia's hotel don't take credit cards.
Byblos Hotel (Phone: +55 61 223-1570 or +55 61 223 1770)
This is a fairly bland mid-priced hotel located Setor Hoteleiro Norte, opposite the Mirage
Hotel (who are more expensive and don't accept credit cards). Rooms cost US$60 per
night, though there is a 20% discount in weekends.
Pousada Get·lio Valente (Phone: +55 61 226-9639; Fax: +55
61 223 1133)
Located not too far from the centre of the city, this is much cheaper alternative for
travellers visiting Brasφlia. Its located at W-3 Sul, Quadra 703, Block N (Casas 10,34,
and 48). The hotel has several houses in the area. There is a hospital nearby, so the
pousadas are also popular with hospital outpatients or their visitors, as well as the
occasional budget traveller. The rooms are clean, and the staff are helpful and obliging.
Simple rooms cost US$20 for a single, but doubles to US$40 for a double.
Cuzco is a major tourist centre, so
there's a wide selection of places to stay. These range from luxury accommodations through
cheap budget accommodation. Its in budget accommodation that Cuzco is truly outstanding.
Some "hostels" offer rooms as cheaply as US$5 per night, though these are
usually some distance from the city centre and require a taxi ride. The best deal that I
was able to find was the Hostel dos Plateros.
Hostel dos Plateros
This is located on Rua Plateros, just 50 metres up from Plaza de Armas. Rooms cost US$10
per night, and are comfortable with private bathroom, television, and telephone. Hot water
is available in the mornings and evenings (hot water is a must in Cuzco, unlike the other
locations along my Amazon journey). The lobby has a comfortable work area with tables for
chatting with friends, and there are numerous restaurants, shops, and travel agencies
close by.
Check your travel guidebook for a more complete list of hotels. Also check out the
Cuzco tourist link at http://www.unsaac.edu.pe/CUSCO/.
   
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