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Cuzco
When walking around the streets of Cuzco, it has the feel of an old city – with lots of small narrow cobblestone streets which, in a way, remind me of old English towns. Except that the the weather in Cuzco is better and the people are more exotic. Most of the local people are Peruvian Indian – living descendants of the Incas. Cuzco is located in the Peruvian Andes, at an altitude of 3,326 metres (10,900 ft) above sea level. The altitude is similar to standing on the top of Mt. Cook (3,753 metres). At this height the air contains less oxygen – meaning that your body needs to work harder to get the oxygen that it needs. It takes a while to adjust to this environment, so it is very important that you don't try anything too physical when you first arrive in Cuzco. You need to spend a day resting, otherwise you might suffer shortness of breath, a sore chest, and headaches. Altitude sickness rarely affects the people who have lived in the Andes for several generations. They have adapted specially to this environment. It is said that they have more blood in their bodies than other people – and that the extra blood helps distribute more oxygen, helping them to overcome any problems. History (The Incas)Legend has it that Cuzco was founded by the first Inca, Manco Capac, in the 12th century. The story says that he plunged golden rod into the ground until it disappeared. This spot was named qosco – which meant "the Earth's navel" in Quechua, the language of the Incas. Inca legend says that Manco Capac was the son of the Sun who, with his sister, was sent down to the Earth to teach people civilisation. These legends credited Manco with having taught the Incas to farm animals (such as llama and alpaca), grow corn, and build roads, cities, and irrigation. Legends tell us that Cuzco was important to the Incas, and that they turned it into a major centre – but other archaeological evidence suggests that there were people living here long before the Incas. Nearby ruins and other archaeological finds pre-date the Incas by thousands of years – and this is why Cuzco is now recognised as the oldest continuously inhabited city. The Inca kings added to the city as their empire slowly grew. But the city was radically transformed under the ninth Inca king, Pachacuti. Pachacuti saved the Incas from defeat at the hands of another neighbouring people, called the Chanka. Following his victory, Pachacuti's army succeeded in defeating many other neighbouring territories – greatly expanding the size of the Empire. Pachacuti then ordered for Cuzco to be rebuilt so that it was fit to be the capital of the great empire he envisioned, and the centre for the Incas' religion. Half of the old city was destroyed to make way for Pachacuti's changes. The new city was shaped like a Puma – Pachacuti built many new palaces and temples, and even diverted a river that went through the city. At the centre of the city was a huge square used for public gatherings and religious events – it was the centre of the city's social life. Cuzco was undoubtedly one of the world's greatest cities at the time that Europeans arrived – its inhabitants lived in comfortable houses, it was well set out with many beautiful gardens and (unlike contemporary European cities) had paved streets which didn't turn into mud in the winter. The greatest temple in Cuzco was Coricancha – the temple of the Sun. Its walls were covered entirely in gold-leaf so that the building was every bit as radiant and the Sun God that it was intended to honour. Inside, the temple was richly decorated with gold ornaments and artworks. When the temple was eventually looted by the conquistadors, the gold leaf (excluding the other ornaments) amounted to 700 sheets weighing 2 kilograms each. The beautiful artwork was destroyed – the gold statues and ornaments were melted down and shipped to Spain. History (The Colonial Period)Following the conquest of Cuzco in 1533, the old Inca palaces and temples were demolished by the Spaniards. In their place, the Spaniards built new cathedrals, palaces, and other buildings. Old Spanish-colonial architecture is now the most dominant feature of the city. But if you look closely, many of the old buildings are built on the foundations of the original Inca buildings. But, for the most part, Cuzco lost its importance with the establishment of the new Peruvian capital at Lima (preferred by the Spanish as a result of its being a sea port). The colonial period meant big changes for the people living in Cuzco. The Catholic Church did its best to eradicate all traces of the old Inca religion and customs. This resulted in the destruction of many temples and shrines – and the persecution (even execution) of anyone caught practising the old religions. Hence, the look of the city, and the customs of its people changed forever as a result of the Spanish occupation. In the late 18th century, there was increasing dissatisfaction at the Spanish colonial rule. The dissatisfaction came both from the Peruvian Indians (who were cruelly treated by the Spanish authorities) and by Spanish colonists who found life difficult under corrupt and greedy crown officials. These problems were experienced in many places all over Spanish-ruled South America – and many rebellions broke out simultaneously. Around Cuzco, there were even a few movements with intentions of re-establishing the Empire of the Incas. The Spaniards put down attempted rebellions as quickly and cruelly as possible – but finally, in the 1820s, the armies of JosΘ de San Martφn and Simon Bolivar defeated Spanish rule in South America. Life improved with the end of Spanish rule. It allowed the Peruvian people to take better control of their own lives without interference from Spain. Towards the end of the 19th century and into the 20th century there was renewed interest in the Incas and other native cultures. The discovery of nearby Machu Picchu by the American explorer, Hiram Bingham, in 1911 meant further changes for Cuzco. As more people found out about the nearby ruins, people from all over the world started to visit the area. Transport to the city improved, eventually turning the city into a tourist centre. Cuzco Today
I quickly found out that Cuzco is a "tourist city" – there are lots of Americans, English, Germans, and other nationalities wandering the streets. Sometimes the tourists seem to outnumber the locals. But the locals have geared up to the influx of tourists. There are heaps of shops selling handicrafts and souvenirs. Common items for sale include traditional textiles, alpaca jerseys, paintings, and jewellery – much of it is very beautiful and good value (especially when you convert the local currency, Sol, back into dollars). There are loads of tour operators offering trips around the city and to local sites of interest such as Machu Picchu. For the adventurous there are opportunities for river rafting, helicopter flights, and trekking on the Inca trail. Cuzco has lots of hotels and hostels – ranging from high quality accommodation to cheap (but comfortable) hostels at $10 per night. There is also a wide choice of places to eat. When wandering around the city, there are lots of people selling crafts along the street. They will often approach tourists trying to sell the wares. Lots of them speak a little English and are quite persistent, proclaiming that their goods are the best quality, good value, and would make terrific presents for friends back home. The first time I got approached by a trader it was quite fun, by the fifth time that fun was wearing very thin, and by the tenth time I was busily looking through my Spanish dictionary to find rude words telling them to go away. ClimateCuzco's high altitude in the Andes has some strange effects. Cuzco has its "summer" when the rest of Peru is having its winter. "Summer" is the dry season – the weather can be quite warm and sunny during the day (20░C), but drops down to about 5░C (and occasionally below zero) during the evening. The "summer" lasts from May to September. October to April is the wet season, and is referred to as "winter" even though it is summer elsewhere in Peru. The temperature is a little warmer than "summer" – but the rain makes travelling and daily life a little more difficult than normal. PeopleThe people in Cuzco are generally friendly and helpful. Travellers are often warned to watch themselves in other parts of Peru – but I didn't have problems in Cuzco. However, reasonable precautions should be taken wherever to travel, so don't get too relaxed with your things. It is also best to avoid being too flashy, avoid carrying valuables, and don't make yourself an easy target for opportunists. Many of the locals in Cuzco are quite poor by our standards, so they may be tempted if they see "rich" tourists being careless with their things. Most of the Peruvian people in the streets are dressed just the same as people in New Zealand or elsewhere. But many of the older people are still wearing traditional Peruvian Indian costumes – particularly the women in their blue dresses, colourful woven cloaks, and hats. Many women are carrying babies in pouches on their backs. Other people are carrying huge sacks or baskets on their backs, especially in the marketplaces. The people are very photogenic – but it is important to remember other people's feelings when you photograph them. Personally, I always ask first – and if they say "no" then I simply don't take the photograph. Sometimes they say "yes" and I get a wonderful photograph. Many of the people are quite poor, so I usually give them a little money (1 Sol) to say thank you for allowing the photograph. Things of InterestThere are heaps of interesting places to visit in and around Cuzco. There are may city tours and trips to nearby sites which can be arranged through the city's many tourist operators. Some good places to see are:
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Cuzco is the
oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas. It is famous for being the capital of the 
Today, Cuzco is one of the most
visited places in South America. Tourists arrive from all
over the world to visit Cuzco and the surrounding Inca
sites. The city itself is very beautiful and it is well
worth wandering around to explore the little side streets
and alleyways. During my own wanders around the city I
discovered lots of interesting shops selling local
handicrafts.
