Planning Your Own Amazon Adventure

The Brazilian Amazon

The Brazilian Amazon is also great place to visit. The Brazilian Amazon is more developed than in Peru, but there are still plenty of areas to experience the rainforest. It also gives you the opportunity to explore Brazil's other wonders such as the spectacular Iguaτu Falls, the sights and sounds of Rio de Janeiro, the beaches and Afro-Brazilian culture of Bahia, and the magnificent experience of the Pantanal's vast wetlands.

For me, the most interesting aspect of Brazil is its culture. The people are friendly, talkative, and relaxed. There's nothing that Brazilians like to do more than talk – although soccer, dancing, and romance also rate extremely highly. Spending time with Brazilian people is a wonderful experience, though its something you'll miss out on if you spend your time secluded away in fancy hotels.

Manaus

Manaus is the Amazon's undisputed capital. Here you can visit the famous opera house and mansions left behind by the great Amazon rubber boom of the 19th and early 20th centuries, take a cruise out to see the meeting of the waters, or explore the nearby rainforests and river tributaries. There are lots of companies offering tours and services, so even if you don't have anything arranged before you reach Manaus, its very easy to organise something once you arrive. There are many hotels to choose from in Manaus – ranging from the luxurious Tropical tourist hotel to squalid (but cheap) hotels frequented by the locals. There are also mid-range hotels such as Hotel Monaco.

Your stay in Manaus will probably include a jungle trip. You have several choices:

Join a jungle tour offered by any of the numerous private operators who take canoes out into the jungle. These trips generally involve camping and several days exploring small river tributaries (igarapΘs) in a motorised canoe. There's no need to have anything pre-arranged – the tour operators or their agents will find you when you arrive at the airport or walk through town. Small operators take groups ranging from 2 to 6 people. Be sure to ask about the food and camping arrangements, and if the trip has an English-speaking guide. The Rφo Negro (or its tributaries) are better for trips involving camping since the waters of the dark rivers are less suitable habitats for mosquitoes.

Larger tour companies can offer berths on comfortable riverboats which enable tourists to explore the rivers in relative comfort. These riverboats are too big to go into the smaller igarapΘs which harbour most of the wildlife, but most include short excursions on canoes and walks into the rainforest to get a closer look at the wildlife.

A stay at a rainforest lodge, such as Aria· Towers gives you the opportunity to experience the rainforest in comfort and safety –with a comfortable bed to sleep, good food, and a shower. Most lodges run planned activities, such as rainforest walks, visits to local villages, piranha fishing, and night time searches for jacarΘs (alligators). Aria· Towers deserves special mention because it re-releases macaws, monkeys and other animals into the rainforest – and is probably the best opportunity available for visitors to get close to rainforest animals in their natural environment.

From Manaus you can take a riverboat ride to other destinations on the Amazon.

Parintins

Parintins is located half-way between Manaus and SantarΘm. Each June this small town holds a festival called the Boi Bumbß, which rivals the spectacular Rio de Janeiro Carnaval. The Boi Bumbß is a week-long party with spectacular costumes, special effects, fire-breathing dragons, music, and competitive dancing as rival groups vie to be voted the best of the festival.

SantarΘm

This is a wonderful town, located a day and half downriver from Manaus by riverboat, and can also be reached via a long bus journey from other places in Brazil, or by plane. SantarΘm is located at the confluence of the Amazon and Tapaj≤s rivers.

The town and the surrounding area is a popular holiday location for local people – the prime attraction being the Tapaj≤s river's clear green waters and white-sand beaches. SantarΘm is quiet and friendly town with an interesting waterfront and spectacular sunsets. My first visit was during the low water season in January. My first impression of the town was spoilt due to the beaches being covered with discarded plastic drink bottles and other rubbish washed up by the river. My second visit was during the high water season in late August – when there was no rubbish on the beaches and my impression of SantarΘm was greatly enhanced. For a cheap and "interesting" hotel, I recommend the Hotel Alvorada located close to the waterfront. If you're looking for somewhere more pampered there is the SantarΘm Palace and the upmarket Tropical Hotel. Visitors wanting to experience more of the area should contact Lago Verde Turismo, who organise fishing trips, and visits to rainforest reserves and giant Amazon water lilies (Vit≤ria Regia). It might also be possible to arrange a visit to nearby FordlΓndia.

Alter do Chπo

Alter do Chπo is one of the most beautiful locations in Amaz⌠nia – visitors can be forgiven for thinking that they've suddenly been transported onto a remote Caribbean beach. If travelling from SantarΘm, catch a taxi to the bus stop (which is easier than trying to find it yourself), then catch the Alter do Chπo bus which costs R$ 1.50 and takes 40 minutes.

Alter do Chπo's clear green waters and beaches were considered sacred to local Indians. The township is small, but becoming increasingly developed as more tourists discover it. There is excellent swimming, kayaking, and nearby trails for walks. There are also food stalls on the beach where you can have fresh fish cooked and served for you. My favourite place to stay is Pousada Alter do Chπo, located on the waterfront. It is small and simple, but comfortable and includes a delicious breakfast on the veranda overlooking the beach. A visit to the Indian Centre is a must – since you can learn about the plight of the indigenous people and see some of the beautiful handcrafts which they produce. The souvenir shop at the Centre has the most authentic Indian artefacts that you're likely to find in Brazil. If you're lucky, you might get to see a green iguana scampering across the road and into nearby bushes.

Monte Alegre

Monte Alegre is a small town with very little happening and very little to see. Its about six hours from SantarΘm by bus (which includes a very scenic ferry ride), or about eight hours by riverboat. The local hotels are cheap, but very basic and not particularly clean. But the people are friendly. The only real attraction for visitors is the Caverna de Pedra Pintada (Cave of Painted Stone) where there are the remains of an Amazon Indian culture dating back more than 11,000 years. Unfortunately, it's very difficult organising transport and a guide to the caves from Monte Alegre (I discovered that many local people have never heard of the cave), so enquire with tourist agencies in SantarΘm before you leave in case they have any groups going out to visit the site.

If you are stuck in Monte Alegre for the day, a visit to the fish market on the waterfront can be interesting due to the number and variety of strange fish on offer, and you can try piranha fishing from the pier (the local kids seem good at it, and can probably offer some advice). It may also be possible to hire a small canoe and to explore a few of the small islands in the middle of the river. Unfortunately, buying a riverboat ticket to get out of Monte Alegre can be a frustrating experience since the local agencies seem to be open irregular hours, and the town retains the tradition of a lunchtime siesta between 12pm and 3pm.

BelΘm

BelΘm is the main port at the mouth of the Amazon river, close to where the river meets the Atlantic. It is a rough city with things in a general state of decay. There are more beggars in the street than elsewhere on the Amazon, and its advisable to be careful when walking the streets at night. Take special care in the city's bars at night since some are frequented by drunken, and sometimes violent, sailors. There's a definite dark and seedy side to the city – one English traveller that I met, who was short of money, ended up acting as a "courier" for the local Mafia; and pirates operate from the local port, hijacking ships and stealing their cargos. BelΘm is less friendly than other places in Brazil.

Despite the city's many problems, it's still an interesting place to visit. It has a range of hotels ranging from the cheap (but clean) Hotel Fortaleza, the faded glory of the Hotel Central, and the luxury of the BelΘm Hilton. The city has attractions such as Museu Emφlio Goeldo – an important research centre for studying the plants, animals, and people of the Amazon. It houses one of the best zoos in South America where you can see Amazon animals which you would rarely get a chance to see in the wild: jaguars, puma, giant otters, manatee, a huge black caiman, and an anaconda. The other major attraction is the waterfront market, called Ver-o-peso. The market contains many interesting things – but its also a den of pickpockets and thieves not afraid to strike in broad daylight. Don't take anything valuable!

From BelΘm you can catch a ferry to Ilha do Maraj≤ or one of several small islands off the nearby coast. Local people claim that Praia do Algodoal, on the Ilha de Maiandeua is the most beautiful beach around. However, I was distinctly unimpressed by it on my visit in January 1997. I have since been told that July and August are the best times to visit.

BelΘm has a road connection to the capital city of Brasφlia, and onto other locations in Brazil. This makes BelΘm a convenient place for budget travellers catching a bus to other parts of Brazil. Owing to the time and distance involved, I personally found the extra expense of flying more worthwhile – although air travel is expensive in Brazil (pre-booking flights on a Varig airpass will cut down the cost).

More Information

There's lots more information about Amazon travels on this website. For further details about travels in Brazil, check out the Internet links and books listed in the references section. Highly recommended travel guides are the Lonely Planet - Brazil guide, and Fieldings: The Amazon.