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Introduction |
Introduction
The long-running conflict between Israel and the Palestinians has been back in the international spotlight thanks to the tentatively optimistic agreements coaxed out of both sides by US President Clinton and nudged on by the ailing King Hussein of Jordan at Wye River, USA in October 1998.
The agreements specify a further concession of 13% of land to the Palestinian authority in return for, among other things, the deletion from the Palestinian National Charter of the paragraph calling for the destruction of the State of Israel. In November 1998 a failed attack on an Israeli school bus at the Jewish settlement of Gush Qatif in the Gaza Strip, and a botched suicide car-bomb attempt near the Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem, almost succeeded in completely derailing the Wye River Accord.
The aftermath of the Wye River accord perhaps acted as a catalyst to political instability, with Prime Minister Binyamin Netanyahu announcing general elections for 27 May. Labour opposition leader Ehud Barak is expected to make a strong showing and with only a one-seat majority in parliament, Netanyahu’s grip on power in the run-up to the elections is as tenuous as the terms of the Wye River Accord.
Meanwhile, the first of an expected flood of Millennium-waiters have already begun taking up residence on the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem in anticipation of Christ’s Second Coming. Tens of thousands of Christians are expected to turn up between now and 31 December 1999. A batch of potentially violent American Millennium-waiters from Colorado has recently been rounded up and deported. If you are intending to visit Jerusalem any time towards the end of next year make your bookings now: seats are limited for the End of the World show.Facts about the Country
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
Israel still displays a rather devil-may-care attitude to ecological issues, but there are signs of a slow greening of social consciousness – particularly in the Red Sea area where Jordanian and Israeli authorities are involved in friendly jousting to out-green each other in their attempts to preserve a fragile ecosystem. However, when a major sewer pipe burst in August 1998, havoc reigned in Eilat where beaches were affected by water-borne pollution, demonstrating just how fragile the country's infrastructure can be at times.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
The upcoming May general elections are holding centre stage in all political activity. The Netanyahu Likud government holds a one-seat majority in Parliament and Netanyahu’s grip on power just prior to the elections is precarious. It is widely expected, or at least hoped for by Israeli liberals, that a Labour (Avoda) party victory headed by intellectual, piano-playing former Chief of Staff Ehud Barak will ensue. The Palestinian authority is doubtless currently biding its time hoping perhaps for the a more accommodating Rabin-style approach to the 'Palestinian problem'.
Despite constant negative media coverage about ongoing strife in Israel, the country remains a safe place for foreign travellers. Tourists have never been deliberately targeted by terrorists as they have on occasion in Egypt, or most recently in Yemen. Security is high at most bus stations, at the airport and even on entering shopping malls. The Palestinian intifada has all but stopped and the Palestinian Authority is making every effort to clamp down on renegade terrorism from both within and outside its ranks.ECONOMY
The Israeli economy, while superficially buoyant and healthy, has in recent times become turgid and troubled and is currently displaying a growth level of just 1.9%, the lowest annualized quarterly increase since 1989. Unemployment and rising prices have made life increasingly difficult for the average Israeli, while hotel prices have gone up by anywhere between 50% and 100% since the last edition of our guide.The almighty US dollar continues its inexorable rise against the now struggling New Israeli Shekel (NIS), having risen from around 3.7 NIS/US$1 in September 1998 to 4.17 NIS/US$1 by the beginning of this year.
Despite perceived unrest in the country (an illusion promoted by selective, though not necessarily inaccurate, media coverage) Israel is gearing up for a massive influx of visitors for the arrival of the year 2000. This expected bonanza has seen businesses in the tourism industry frantically investing in infrastructure in the hope of cashing in on this Millennium windfall. Expect delays and hassles if planning to travel in Israel then.SOCIETY & CONDUCT
Israel seems to be becoming more socially fragmented with heightened religious and political chasms between the ultra-orthodox Jews, ultra-right 'knitted kippah' West Bank settlers and secular Jews. Social cohesion is being sorely tested by new Jewish underclass immigrants from Russia and Ethiopia as well as by non-Jewish workers from South-East Asia, Africa and Europe. Palestinians, while scrupulously polite and friendly to foreign visitors freely xpress their discontent at what they perceive to be a tightening net of petty restrictions and regulations making their life intolerable. While all this will not be immediately visible, visitors should bear in mind that Israel is a society in transition; local peoples' opinions and predicament should be viewed with sympathy and understanding.Facts for the Visitor
TOURIST OFFICES
Tourist Offices Abroad
Many Israel Government Tourist Offices are now contactable by email:Australia: aicc@mpx.com.au
Canada: igto@indirect.com
France: infos@otisrael.com
Germany: igtofra@aol.com
Japan: listman@clal-ns.or.jp
Netherlands: igto.adam@wxs.nl
South Africa: igto@icon.co.za
UK: igto-uk@dircon.co.uk
USA
Chicago: igtochicago@aol.com
Dallas: igtotx@onramp.net
Los Angeles: info@goisrael.com
See also the Israel Government Tourist Office’s Web page: www.infotour.co.il
VISAS & DOCUMENTS
Passports
The most frequently recurring topic on the Middle East branch of the Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet's electronic bulletin board for travellers, is the Israeli passport stamp issue. Although this is dealt with in Israel & the Palestinian Territories, the following posting provides a definitive summary:'With the exception of Egypt, Jordan and Morocco, all Arab countries of the Middle East, the Gulf and North Africa, as well as Iran, some African countries and a few other Muslim countries in Asia refuse entry to travellers whose passports bear any evidence of a visit to Israel. "Evidence" means Israeli stamps of any kind (entry or exit, or visas for other countries that have been issued in Tel Aviv or Eilat), plus entry or exit stamps from the Egyptian border posts at Taba (near Eilat) and Rafah (Gaza Strip) or the Jordanian border posts at the Sheikh Hussein Bridge, the King Hussein Bridge or the Wadi Araba crossing.
'Israel will always, at all borders and airports, stamp you in and out on a separate piece of paper leaving your passport clean but you have to ask, sometimes even insist.
'Egypt: The Egyptians will never stamp you in and out on a separate piece of paper, so if you travel between Israel and Egypt overland (which means via Rafah or Taba) you will have evidence in your passport that will prohibit later travel into countries that refuse entry to travellers who have been to Israel.
'Jordan: They'll never stamp you 'in' on a piece of paper but will always stamp you 'out' on one if you ask. The exception to this is the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge between Jordan and the West Bank (the closest crossing to Jerusalem). This is not seen by the Jordanians as an international border. You can cross here without getting your passport marked.
'Syria and Lebanon: These two countries are still technically at war with Israel and the borders are closed. These countries will refuse entry to anyone whose passport shows evidence of a visit to Israel. Syrian officials also treat a brand-new passport issued in Amman or Egypt as evidence of concealment of a visit to Israel and may well refuse entry on these grounds even if you hold a valid Syrian visa.'
If you've still got questions about visa regulations try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world:
http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.html
EMBASSIES & CONSUALTES
Embassies & Consulates in Israel
The following consulates in Jerusalem are now contactable via email:
Denmark: adtalbar@mail.inter.net.il
France: consulate@p-d.com
UK: britain@palnet.com
MONEY
Exchange Rates
It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the shekel (NIS):
www.oanda.comExchanging Money
Once in Israel private moneychangers are by far the best and fastest way to exchange money. In banks you will often have to fill in forms, wait in line and generally be subject to unnecessary bureaucratic obstacles.
Travellers' cheques are still widely accepted though one reader warned us that Eurocheques attract a very hefty commission (around 200 NIS for each cheque). The US dollar is still the most widely understood and quoted currency and hotel prices are normally quoted in it.POST & COMMUNICATIONS
Telephone
All phones now have seven-digit numbers and connections are clear and efficient. There are three carriers – each with their own dialling access codes – currently operating international phone services out of Israel and while their fees may very they are generally good value. For Barak use the 013 prefix; for Golden Lines the 012 prefix and for the State carrier Bezeq the 001 prefix. Barak is cheaper for calls to Australia, Canada and the UK, but Bezeq is (just) cheaper for calls to the USA. Rates do change so check when you arrive.
A 3rd cellular phone company, Orange, has now entered the Israeli market. Its phones run on the GSM system, so roamers should be able to use GSM phones here. Mobile phones can be rented for as little as US$1 a day.Email & Internet Access
Israel has a dearth of Internet cafes or public Internet access points.INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on Israel, try the following links.
The Lonely Planet homepage – follow the links to the Thorn Tree travellers' reports for the latest postings on Israel:
www.lonelyplanet.comThe 'Complete Guide' (almost) to the World Wide Web in Israel, boasting over 950 links to categories such as arts, reference etc:
www.iguide.co.il/
Links to categories such as travel and tourism, maps, museums, galleries and lodgings:
www.city.net/countries/israel/
The Israel Government Tourist Office’s Web page:
www.infotour.co.il/
The home page of the Israeli Foreign Ministry includes biographies of ministers, a guide to the peace process, a weekly survey of the Israeli press and links to the web sites of Israeli embassies worldwide:
www.israel.org/
The Internet version of the English-language daily The Jerusalem Post:
www.jpost.co.il/
A virtual tour through the Old City of Jerusalem with links to information on other parts of the country:
www1.huji.ac.il/jeru/jerusalem.html/
Good information on Bed & Breakfast (B&B) accommodation in Jerusalem:
www.bnb.co.il/
An excellent way to find contact numbers for businesses and other organisations in Israel (you can even send free faxes directly from the Web page):
www.yellowpages.co.il/Birzeit University Web site: a one-stop shop for all you could want to know about the Palestinian Territories, including a link to all the useful Palestinian Web sites:
www.birzeit.edu/index.html
The official tourism Website of the Palestinian Ministry of Tourism & Antiquities. Includes comprehensive data on the seven main Palestinian towns:
www.visit-palestine.com
BOOKS
Lonely Planet books – with the glaring exception of Israel & Palestinian Territories – can be bought all over the country from the Steimatzky chain of bookshops. The Lametayel Adventure store in Tel Aviv (Dizengoff Centre), and its branches in Haifa and Jerusalem, does stock Israel & Palestinian Territories and many other LP titles.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
LP regularly receives letters and emails from women travellers warning of Tel Aviv’s beach Romeos, whose persistent attentions can become very annoying. Visting the beach with friends seems the best way to avoid this problem. Similarly, we have had letters warning of harassment by Arab males in Nazareth. This can occur because of inappropriate dress worn by female visitors – to avoid any problems, simply dress modestly: cover up as much as possible and don't wear tight clothes; a long skirt and blouse or baggy T-shirt will fit the bill.DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Walking alone at night, whether you're male or female, in the Old City of Jerusalem may attract unwarranted attention. In August 1998 the bar of the Tabasco Tearooms in the Old City was attacked and ransacked by hooded thugs presumably objecting to the overt consumption of alcohol in a Muslim area. Alcohol consumption in the Arab Quarter of the Old City should be kept under strict control; travellers should avoid drunken behaviour and be aware of local sensitivities. Similarly, visitors to the ultra-orthodox Jewish neighbourhood of Mea She'arim in Jerusalem should respect signs requesting modest dress and no photography. Enraged locals have turned upon tourists when these simple requirements have been breached.
There are also reports of harassment and occasional physical harm to tourists hanging around at night near the lighthouse in Old Akko; be careful in this picturesque but potentially risky town's narrow and sometimes dark streets.PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
*denotes Muslim holidaysRamadan* – 14-17 January
Purim – 2 March
Adha* – 25-28 March
Pesach (first day) – 1 April
Pesach (last day) – 17 April
Holocaust Day – 13 April
Israel Memorial Day – 20 April
Israel Independence Day – 21 April
Muslim New Year* – 26 April
Shavuot – 21 May
Prophet's Birthday* – 24 June
Rosh HaShanah (Jewish New Year) – 11-12 September
Yom Kippur – 20 September
Sukkot – 25 September
Simhat Tora – 2 October
Prophet's Ascension* – 5 November
ACCOMMODATION
Price increases across the board are the most noticeable feature of Israeli life since the current edition of our guide was published. It is now unusual to get an average single hotel room for under US$50 and a single room at a top-class hotel can cost you over US$200 per night. Hotel rates have increased from between 50% and 100% over prices listed in the current guide.
Backpacker accommodation, while still subject to the same vagaries of inflation, remains relatively economical with dorm beds going on average for around 25 NIS. HI Youth hostel prices are now creeping up, with a bed now costing on average around US$18 per night. Bed & Breakfast or private apartments (see Jerusalem & Tel Aviv later in this Upgrade) are now popular alternatives for mid-range accommodation while Kibbutz accommodation fills the gap between the middle and upper price range.FOOD
Dining out costs have increased by between 20% and 25% since the current guide was published. A restaurant meal for two, with a bottle of wine, will cost on average about 200 NIS (US$46) – expensive by the standards of neighbouring countries.Getting There & Away
AIR
On November 24 the long-completed Palestinian Authority Gaza International Airport at Dahaniya in the Gaza Strip was finally allowed to start operating; inaugural flights from Egypt, Jordan, Morocco and Spain arrived and departed with optimistic fanfare.
Israel doesn't feature conveniently on most Round the World (RTW) ticketing arrangements so air travellers will most likely be doing some backtracking to get there. It is a good idea to get your Israel ticket built into your main ticket since regional fares to/from Israel can be expensive, eg Athens to Tel Aviv and back is around US$400.
It is possible to get from Tel Aviv to London – from where onward tickets can be found at better prices – for as little as US$120. One-way tickets to Athens or similarly-distanced Mediterranean destinations go for around US$100. For good deals out of Israel try Mona Tours at 25 Bograshov St, Tel Aviv. The Lametayel Adventure Store on the second level of the Dizengoff Shopping Centre in Tel Aviv also has a flash travel agency catering mainly to young Israeli travellers, but you may be able to wangle a decent flight deal to destinations further afield like Australia, Africa or the Far East.LAND
Border crossings out of Israel still exist only between Israel and Jordan and Israel and Egypt. The Israeli exit tax in late 1998 was 61 NIS. There are also exit taxes from Jordan and Egypt so make sure you save a few dinars or pounds if entering Israel from either of those two countries. There are still no scheduled cross-border bus services between any of these countries.SEA
The only way into and out of Israel by scheduled sea services is via Haifa to Cyprus and then onto Greece. Two companies run services up to three times a week in summer and once a week in winter. Salamis Lines is represented in Haifa by Allalouf & Co. Shipping Ltd. (Tel 04-867 1743, fax 867 0530, 40 HaNamal St ) and Poseidon Lines by Caspi Travel (Tel 04-867 4444, fax 866 195876, Ha’Atzamaut St).
Passengers should note that for sailings on Fridays and on the eve of Jewish public holidays (see Public Holidays earlier) the port closes at 1 pm so you'll need to check in before then (even for ferries departing at 8 pm). No departures are currently scheduled for Fridays, but this may change depending on the sailing season.
Getting Around
Bus and train travel is no longer dirt cheap: prices have increased by about 31% in comparison to prices listed in the current edition of our guide. Bus or air passes are only useful if you intend to do a lot of travelling.
AIR
Domestic air travel is limited to routes linking Eilat, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa and Kiryat Shmona in the North Galilee region. A flight from Eilat to Tel Aviv costs around US$80 one way with the domestic carrier Arkia.BUS
Bus travel is still the most convenient way to get around and Egged is still the sole state carrier. The fleet is modern and well-maintained and the drivers still drive like crazy along the open highways. Thankfully accidents are few and far between. A long-haul trip from Jerusalem to Eilat now costs 46 NIS.TRAIN
The scenic Jerusalem-Tel Aviv train service has closed down pending much-needed repairs to its dilapidated tracks. The rolling stock on the Tel Aviv-Haifa-Nahariya line is now modern and very comfortable; prices are on par with bus travel and should be considered as a viable alternative. A single ticket from Tel Aviv to Haifa now costs 19.50 NIS. For what it's worth, the train service also extends south towards Rehovot with onward commuter services twice a day to and from Ashdod.CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Renting a car and splitting the cost between two or more people can be a very economical way of getting around, especially inmore remote regions like the Golan or the Negev Desert. Shop around the car hire companies for a good deal, but bank on around US$55-$65 per day for a decent small car. Remember, though, small cars have small boots/trunks so keep your luggage to a minimum. SAGAL, with branches around the country, served this LP author very satisfactorily and gets the thumbs up.
Bringing a car or motorcycle from Europe via Greece or Cyprus (see the Getting There & Away section earlier) is one option if you plan to tour extensively or head on to Egypt or Jordan. You can bring your vehicle on the ferry from Greece or Cyprus. Petrol is widely available and unleaded fuel currently costs 3.75 NIS per litre.BICYCLE
Walk Ways (Tel 534 5602, fax 533 2402, rockman@netvision.net.il) in Jerusalem rents and sells new or second-hand bikes and spare parts and will deliver to your hotel or hostel. You can also contact the Jerusalem Cycle Club (Tel 561 9416) for information on cycling in Jerusalem and organised cycling tours.HITCHING
Hitching is enormously popular in Israel, particularly with military personnel on leave between base and home. Drivers are accommodating and the system works well, but beware: hitching has its risks, especially if you are a lone and vulnerable foreigner. LP does not endorse hitchhiking and it should be undertaken at your own risk and only in mixed pairs both for safety and for efficiency.LOCAL TRANSPORT
By and large buses still constitute the main means of local transport. A single ticket anywhere in Jerusalem now costs 4.30 NIS. Tel Aviv is similar. There are no metro train services in any city, though Haifa has the handy Carmelit underground cable car line. Taxis (called special taxis) are plentiful though drivers, especially around Jaffa gate in Jerusalem, are reluctant to use the meter. A short taxi ride across Jerusalem or Tel Aviv should not cost more than 20 NIS. If you are ripped off, take a note of the taxi number and send a written complaint to the following authorities: Controller of Road Transport – 97 Jaffa Rd, 91008 Jerusalem, 8 HaMelach St, 67150 Tel Aviv or 121 Jaffa Rd, 31200 Haifa.
Sheruts (shared taxis or minibuses) are great value, especially if you have luggage, since they will often drop you off at your final destination. A sherut from Tel Aviv airport to, say, Jerusalem will cost you around 37 NIS.
Jerusalem
INTERNET RESOURCES
At Netcafe (no-smoking), 9 Helene HaMalka St, you can surf and email for 14 NIS for 30 minutes or 25 NIS for one hour. Tmol Shilshom, masquerading as a bookshop-cum-restaurant, is at 5 Solomon St and has the cheapest Internet access (9 NIS for 30 minutes) in town.PLACES TO STAY
B&Bs have become a big thing in Jerusalem and provide an ideal mid-range accommodation option. Prices range from US$25 to US$70 and in at least 13 cases, bookings can be made via the B&B Web page (www.bnb.co.il). Listings and further details are also available. Breakfast is not always provided so do check beforehand. This LP author stayed at Allenby No 2 (nmr@netvision.net.il) in the Romema district and was very happy with facilities.
HI-Old City Youth Hostel is officially no longer accepting walk-in guests. Don't even bother trying.
The Petra Hostel in Jerusalem received a panning in the current edition of the guide and while this may have applied in 1995, it is no longer valid in 1999. The place is friendly, well run, shabby in a nice and clean way and, most importantly, not buried away in the narrow and sometimes risky back streets of the Arab Quarter. The El-Arab Hostel in the Old City, however, has become a place tainted with a shady and rather fanatical political reputation.
Tel Aviv
INTERNET RESOURCES
Tel Aviv is still dominated by the outrageously expensive In Bar (barak@isralink.co.il) at the junction of Shlomo Hamelech and King George V Sts; charges are an exorbitant 40 NIS an hour or 30 NIS per half hour. Students with student card pay 30 and 20 NIS respectively.
It's easy to organise a temporary Internet account if you are travelling with a laptop PC equipped with a modem card. There are a number of service providers, but the author of this Upgrade used Netvision (www.netvision.net.il/) services with considerable success and lack of fuss.
PLACES TO STAY
Tel Aviv has witnessed considerable change in the backpacker scene and four of the budget accommodation options listed in our current guide have closed. They are: the Saskia Hostel, the Josef Hostel, the White House and the Greenhouse Hostel. After careful inspection of the remaining hostels and few new ones, LP recommends the No 1 Hostel on Ben Yehuda St – at least for first-time arrivals. Many of the other hostels double as long-term boarding houses and the atmosphere can sometimes be hostile to casual travellers.
While B&Bs have not taken off in the same way in Tel Aviv as they has in Jerusalem, excellent mid-range apartment accommodation is now offered by Kikar Dizengoff Apartments, on Dizengoff Square in the centre of the city.
Haifa & the North Coast
PLACES TO STAY
The acerbic critique of Walied's Gate Hostel in Akko in the current guide is longer valid. The place has got its act together and most travellers report complete satisfaction with the quality of accommodation and service. Walied also now manages the Akko Youth Hostel.
The Dead Sea
PLACES TO STAY
The Ein Bokek campsite is now closed due to ground subsidence caused by flash winter floods. Accommodation options in and around the Dead Sea are scarce at the bottom end and plentiful and expensive at the upper end. Accommodation prices are lower in Arad.
The Negev
PLACES TO STAY
Eilat, a popular backpacker destination, has had a bit of a shake up on the accommodation front with some places upgrading to expensive hotels, new ones opening up and others just going to seed. LP has carefully reviewed all hostels and now only recommends bona fide backpacker establishments. First-time backpackers should head for the friendly Spring Hostel which, while a bit more expensive than the others, is definitely more traveller-friendly.
The new Chez Alexis (Tel 07-658 8258, 7 Ein Saharonim St) in Mitzpe Ramon is highly recommended. It's a small villa with private rooms and is run by the former manager of the HI-Youth Hostel at Mitzpe Ramon. Bookings are required.
The West Bank & Gaza
GETTING AROUND
Travel between Israel and the West Bank and Gaza is getting more and more difficult for independent travellers, with virtually no direct transport links between the two communities. Even getting to Jericho which is so close to Jerusalem requires a change of sherut half way. Entry to the West Bank is only feasible via Jerusalem; transport infrastructure from the West Bank to other points where the Territory meets Israel proper is virtually nonexistent. Getting into the Gaza Strip still requires a combination of bus, taxi and walking. On arrival at the Erez border crossing, visitors to Gaza should head for the small VIP booth past the vehicle check point rather than join the often long queues for Palestinians. You will need your passport.PLACES TO STAY
Gaza City now sports a clutch of pretty decent hotels on the seafront and prices are in the mid-range category. However, the beach and port areas are still undeveloped and pretty scruffy.Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don't stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Israel and the Palestinian Territories. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers' reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site:
Scoop – Israel News Archive
Postcards – Travellers' Reports from Israel
The Thorn Tree – Middle East Travellers' Bulletin Board
Destinations – Lonely Planet's On-line Mini Guide to Israel
Propaganda – Lonely Planet's current guides to Israel & the Palestinian Territories, the Middle East and Jerusalem.Thanks for Your Feedback
Things change – prices go up, schedules change, good places go bad and bad places go bankrupt – nothing stays the same. So, if you find things are better or worse, recently opened or long since closed, please tell us and help make the next guidebook and Upgrade even more accurate and useful. You'll get a nice warm inner glow from helping other travellers avoid pitfalls and gain from your experiences, both good and bad.
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Special thanks to the following travellers, whose contributions formed part of this Upgrade:
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