 Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Israel & the Palestinian Territories
Area: 20,770 sq km
Population: 5.5 million
Capital city: Jerusalem (pop 592,000)
People: Jewish (80%), Muslim (14.4%), Christians (2.9%) and Druze (1.7%)
Language: Hebrew, Arab & English
Religion: Jewish, Muslim, Christian
Government: Republic
Prime Minister: Ehud Barak
Smaller than Belgium, New Jersey or Tasmania, Israel is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Lebanon and Syria to the north, Jordan to the east and Egypt to the south. The dominant geographic feature is the Rift Valley, which runs from Turkey, through Israel and down into Africa. It contains the Dead Sea, as well as the Jordan, Arava and Hula valleys and Lake Galilee. Israel is not a wet country (the Jordan is its only main river), and only the north sustains agriculture. The country's main body of water, the Dead Sea, is incredibly salty, as well as being the lowest place on the planet. It's flanked by the Judean Desert, which further south becomes the Negev.
Three geographic zones converge in Israel, and as a result you'll find a wealth of wildlife. Northern Israel is wet and mountainous, and supports laurel forests and streams filled with otters. The south of the country is desert, with wild tulips, irises and date palms. Israel is also the second largest flyway for migratory birds, with species from all over the world swapping hemispheres here. A fifth of the country is national parks - around 300 of them - and the Israelis are renowned for having turned the desert into a garden, as well as having reintroduced a number of species which have become locally extinct since Biblical times. For information on national parks and environmental issues, contact the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel.
It's hard to pin down the Israeli climate - while it's snowing in Jerusalem it may well be 23° Celsius by the Dead Sea. Generally speaking, however, Israel is temperate and has two main seasons - winter and summer. Winter, from November to March, can be quite severe, and the north is very wet. Summer is hottest below sea level (up to 40° Celsius in Eilat), although it can still get quite cold at night in desert areas. In spring, strong winds can push the temperature up dramatically.
Israel isn't just rich in history - it's obscenely, gratuitously, Imelda Marcos rich. Thickly literary, packed full of household names, and always tumultuous, Israel's history seeps from the past into the present, in a country where everyday interactions are shaped by thousand-year-old conflicts. It all began around 1800 BC when Abraham led a group of nomads from Mesopotamia and settled in the mountains of Canaan. By 1023 BC the Israelites had formed a kingdom, led by Saul and then David, who captured Jerusalem and made it his capital. In around 950 BC, David's son Solomon built one of Judaism's most important sites, the First Temple of Jerusalem. The Temple was destroyed in 586 BC by the invading Babylonians, but was eventually rebuilt. The unstoppable Roman Empire took Israel in 63 BC and placed it under the control of a series of consuls, including Herod the Great and Pontius Pilate. This is when Jesus was believed to have lived and preached in Israel. The increasing insanity of the Empire under Caligula prompted a Jewish uprising, which lasted four years but was finally crushed when the Temple was again destroyed. After a second revolt, Jerusalem itself was razed, a new city (Aelia Capitolina) built on its ruins, and the province of Palestine decreed. This defeat marked the end of the Jewish state and the beginning of the Diaspora, the scattering of the Jewish people.
In 331 AD Emperor Constantine became a Christian and gave his official stamp of approval to the previously illegal religion. Suddenly everyone wanted to know about the Holy Land, and a rash of buildings, including the churches of the Holy Sepulchre and the Nativity, sprang up all over Israel to mark sites of religious importance. But Christianity's hold over the country was not to last long - in 638 AD Jerusalem fell to Caliph Omar and was declared a Holy City of Islam, on the grounds that the Prophet Mohammed had ascended to heaven from atop the Temple Mount. Christians around the world raised their hackles at this desecration, and by 1099 they'd scrounged an army together and occupied Jerusalem, murdering everyone they could get their hands on and beginning nearly 100 years of Christian rule. But by 1187 the Muslims again had the upper hand - after decades of Christian/Muslim scuffling, the Islamic Mamluks knocked over the last Crusader stronghold in 1291.
 Islamic one-upmanship: the magnificent Dome of the Rock (14K)
The next 500 years were some of the quietest Israel has seen. Empires rose and fell, and control of the country changed hands with monotonous regularity, but very little of the fighting took place on Israeli soil - for the average Israelite, it was business as usual. The only blip occurred in the 16th century, when the Ottoman Empire took over the reins and Suleyman the Magnificent rebuilt Jerusalem's city walls. By the mid-19th century the Ottomans were losing their grip and world interest once again focused on Israel. Britain opened a consulate in Jerusalem, and in 1839 Sir Moses Montefiore, a British Jew, began promoting the idea of a Jewish state. In 1878 the first Jewish colony was founded, and before long the first Aliyah, or wave of immigrants, had started. At the same time, the Arab population of Palestine was becoming strongly nationalistic and anti-European, which did not bode well for the new arrivals.
At the time of WWI, Britain became seriously involved in Israeli affairs, promising the Arabs they'd recognise an Arab state, and promising the Jews they'd support a Jewish homeland in Palestine. When the war ended, Britain was given a mandate to rule the country, and as Europe moved towards WWII, Britain decided to stop all immigration to Israel. Desperate illegal immigrants continued to arrive, and the Arab population responded with ever-increasing levels of violence. By 1947 the British decided they'd had enough - a resolution was passed to divide the country between Arabs and Jews, and on 14 May 1948 the Brits fled. Fighting broke out almost immediately, and when a ceasefire was declared in May 1949, Israeli forces held most of Palestine. Citizenship was offered to any Jewish person wishing to immigrate and the Israelis set out to colonise even the most inhospitable areas of the country.
Surrounded by unfriendly Arab nations, the new state of Israel quickly came under siege. In 1967 Israel went to war with Egypt, then Jordan and Syria. After six days the Israelis had won and extended their territory into the Golan Heights, the West Bank, the Gaza Strip and the Sinai Desert. Israel was starting to look pretty tough, and as a result a flood of Jewish immigrants headed in, while 500,000 Palestinians headed out. A group of Palestinians who decided to stay on and fight formed the Palestine Liberation Organisation (PLO), an organisation dedicated to freeing its homeland. Meanwhile, Israel signed peace accords with Egypt.
Years of PLO action resulted in little more than international condemnation, but in 1987 a popular Palestinian uprising, the intifada, turned things around. Television coverage of Israeli soldiers firing on unarmed Arab kids did a great deal for the Palestinian cause, and brought the issue of a Palestinian homeland back to the world's attention. In 1991 Israeli officials met with a Palestinian delegation and eventually PLO leader Yasser Arafat and Israeli Prime Minister Rabin shook hands on the White House lawn and agreed to work for peace. Of course, this being Israel, it hasn't been as easy as all that. Parts of the Gaza Strip and West Bank were given self rule, and Palestinian elections were held, but in 1995 Rabin was assasinated. Right wing leader Binyamin Netanyahu was less than committed to peace, and growing Israeli settlements and increasing terrorist retaliations pushed the country towards the brink of war during his leadership. With the election of Ehud Barak in 1999, Israel is once more presented with the chance to embrace peace.
GDP: US$73 billion
GDP per head: US$13,762
Annual growth: 4.5%
Inflation: 14%
Major industries: Metal, machinery, electronics, diamonds, chemicals
Major trading partners: USA, UK, Belgium/Luxembourg, Germany
Until recently, Israel's culture has been predominantly religious, be it Jewish, Christian or Muslim. Although the hoe-that-field, pick-that-fruit, scoutlike kibbutz feeling is still in evidence, and although Judaism is the state religion, Israel is rapidly turning into a cosmopolitan consumerist society. Most Jewish Israelis play it both ways, leading a largely secular life but still taking part in the occasional religious ceremony. This is not to say that orthodoxy has died out: on the contrary, orthodox factions are becoming stronger and stronger, and their calls for a return to religiosity are louder and louder. Orthodox, or Hasidic, Jews are recognisable by their dark clothes, beards and curly sideburns (although women tend to forego the beards and sideburns).
Orthodox couture in Mea She'arim (15K)
In Palestinian parts of the country, Muslim culture is more evident: you'll see fewer women, and those that you do see will be dressed more modestly. Sunni is the predominant Muslim sect. Family and hospitality are very important in Palestinian life, and most Palestinians are extremely friendly and helpful to strangers, going so far as to welcome them into their homes.
Israel is renowned for its classical music, with artists such as violinist Yitzhak Perlman strutting the world stage. Klezmer, the knees-up violin-based Yiddish folk music, is hugely popular in Israel and has spread its tentacles to Jewish communities around the world. The founders of the Zionist movement were writers, and literature is still strongly supported in Israel - successful exports have included Amos Oz and David Grossman. The Palestinian community also has a strong literary tradition, born out of adversity and struggle - poetry is particularly popular. In their passion to impose a Jewish identity on their new homeland, the new Israelis took to architecture with a passion, resulting in the form-over-function Internationalist style as well as the spread of Bauhaus buildings. Few Islamic buildings have survived into the 20th century, but there is some beautiful Mamluk architecture in Old Jerusalem.
Jerusalem's bright young things (23K)
Israeli eating habits are dictated to some extent by religious laws - Jews cannot eat dairy and meat products together, nor can they eat 'unclean' birds or fish, and neither Muslims nor Jews can eat pig. The waves of immigrants have all brought their own cuisine with them, and you will find Yemeni Jewish food (flame grilled meats, stuffed vegetables and an astonishing array of offal) and Eastern European Jewish food (schnitzel, goulash, gefilte fish and blintzes). Observant Jews are not permitted to cook on the Sabbath, so for most of Saturday they will eat cholent, a heavy stew cooked on Friday night. Arab dishes include felafel (ground chickpeas flavoured with spices and deep fried), tahina (sesame paste), houmus (chickpea and garlic paste) and flatbreads. Religious laws proscribe alcohol for Muslims, and orthodox Jews aren't too keen on it either, so tea (Arab-style with mint and a truckload of sugar) and coffee are the beverage mainstays. Palestinians also make juices from tamarind, dates and almonds.
Not surprisingly, Israeli holidays and festivals are mostly religious. Keep an eye out for Jewish holidays, in particular, as the country really does grind to a halt on these days and you'll have to put your travel plans on hold. The Jewish sabbath day, Shabbat, is celebrated from sunset Friday to sunset Saturday, and no work may be done on this day. Yom Kippur, in October, is the holiest day in the Jewish calendar. This is the day of atonement, and it is marked with 25 hours of abstinence from just about everything, combined with prayer, contemplation and confession. The Feast of Passover celebrates the Jewish exodus, led by Moses, from Egypt. For a week in April everyone eats matza, a flat, tasteless bread. Jewish festivals aren't all abstinence and abnegation, though - during Purim, held in March to celebrate Jewish resistance to assimilation, everyone is required to get so drunk that they can't distinguish the words 'bless Mordechai' from 'curse Haman'.
The big one for Muslims is Ramadan, a month where everyone fasts between sunup and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. If you're in Israel at this time, be sensitive to the fact that most of the Muslims around you are very, very hungry. Ramadan ends with a huge feast, Eid al-Fitr, where everyone prays together, visits friends, gives presents and stuffs themselves.
Visas: Unless you are a citizen of an African or Central American country, India, Singapore or some ex-Soviet republics, you do not need a visa to enter Israel. Most tourists are allowed a three-month stay, but those entering overland from Egypt or Jordan may only be granted one month. If you do not have a return ticket and money to cover your stay, you may be put on the next flight home. The main hassle with visiting Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped - most Arab countries will not allow you to enter if you have visited Israel. If you can, get officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport.
Health risks: No particular risks, but you should consider vaccinations for hepatitis, typhoid, polio, tetanus and diphtheria.
Time: GMT/UTC plus two hours
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
 Money & Costs
Currency: New Israeli Shekel (NIS)
Exchange rate: US$1 = 3.5 NIS
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$2-3
- Mid-range meal: US$10-16
- Top-end meal: US$20-35
- Budget room: US$7-10
- Mid-range hotel: US$50-60
- Top End hotel: US$70-110
You can bring as much foreign and local currency as you've got into Israel, which is lucky because you're going to need it. Israel is pricey, but you will get what you pay for. If you're on a tight budget you can get a pretty good dorm bed for $7 upwards. If you want a double room with its own bathroom, you'll be looking at around $50. Food is the real budget breaker - although it's possible to live on three felafel rolls a day for about $2, realistically you'll need $10-16 if you're ever going to get a break from street food. For $25-30 you should be able to get decent accommodation, eat well and travel around, but if you want to drink, go to museums or take a tour that will quickly blow out.
Up-market spots will be just as happy to take US dollars as NIS, and if you pay this way you'll save yourself 17% VAT. However, if you're frequenting the lower end of the market, you'll need shekels. US dollars are the easiest to change, and anywhere will change them, but most other hard currencies as well as travellers' cheques are also widely accepted. Israelis are renowned for living on credit, and most places will take your plastic. ATMs are also widespread, and the majority of them take international credit cards.
Bargaining for daily bread (22K)
The tipping culture has hit Israel with a vengeance, and you'll be expected to give at least 15% whether it's been earned or not. Hospitality workers are paid a pittance - keep it in mind when you're wondering whether to shell out those extra shekels. Although there's a value added tax on most goods, you should be able to get a refund if you can face up to the hideously bureaucratic procedure involved.
Climate shouldn't be a major factor in your choice of when to go to Israel - whatever time of year it is, some part of the country is always pleasant. You might want to avoid major Jewish holidays, as the country fills up with pilgrims, accommodation prices go up and it's almost impossible to travel between cities.
 Warning
Peace in Israel is always fragile, particularly in the occupied territories: the Gaza Strip and the West Bank. Although fighting is usually contained to a small area and rarely affects tourists, keep an eye on the news before you travel and check with your embassy if things look scary.
Finger on the pulse (18K)
They don't come any holier than this. Jews, Muslims, Christians: all three hold Jerusalem sacred, and it seems all three would rather see it destroyed than have the others touch it. Of course, most people come to Jerusalem to immerse themselves in this holy history, but try to remember that Jerusalem is as much a modern city as a concept, as full of living, breathing people as ghosts and Biblical figures. The city is divided into three parts: the walled Old City, where most of the sights are; the predominantly Arab East Jerusalem; and the rapidly expanding new city, known as West Jerusalem. The Old City is also divided, into Armenian, Christian, Jewish and Muslim quarters.
Swapping notes at the Western Wall (18K)
To get an idea of the Old City, it's worth strolling around the city walls, built in the 16th century by Suleyman the Magnificent. Rising over the city is the Haram-ash Sharif/Temple Mount, centrepiece for all the squabbles. This is where Mohammed rose to heaven and where God instructed Abraham to sacrifice his son. The magnificent Dome of the Rock mosque dominates the Mount, with the Al-Aqsa Mosque and Islamic Museum a little to its south. The Western Wall, at the base of the mount, is the most accessible of the four walls of the Second Temple, built by King Herod. This accessibility has made it a popular place for Jewish worship. To complete the holy sites trilogy, pop over to the Christian Quarter for a visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This church is built over the site where Jesus was (probably) crucified, buried and resurrected - its appeal relies on its historical links rather than its architectural splendour. Most people arrive here after walking down the Via Dolorosa, the route Jesus followed as he carried his cross.
If you've had enough religion, head out of the Old City to bustling, fume-hazed, Palestinian East Jerusalem, or the cafes and shopping centres of New Jerusalem. To the west of the city you'll find Yad Vashem, the moving and disturbing Jewish memorial to the holocaust. To the east is the Mount of Olives, where Jesus ascended to heaven and where more earthbound folk can get a beautiful view of the city.
Atmosphere so chunky you can carve it (23K)
Where you stay in Jerusalem really depends on what you want out of your visit. The Old City and East Jerusalem have the cheapest places and the best atmosphere, and they're closest to the sights. On the downside, it's a long walk to the cafes and nightlife of the New City, and the Old City pretty much shuts down after dark. If you're prepared to pay more, and if living it up is your priority, head for the New City. For really good, really cheap food, try the Mahane Yehuda market to the west of the Old City. The best places for felafel are below the city walls in East Jerusalem, or in the shopping precincts of the New City.
Less than a century old, Tel Aviv is about finance, business and fun - it's pretty hard to compete with Jerusalem's three millennia of history, so Tel Aviv doesn't even try. Nearly everyone who lives here came from somewhere else, and a short walk through the city will take you to the spicy orientalism of the Yemenite Quarter, the seedy vodka cafes of Allenby St and the Miami chic of pastel pink beachfront condos. Tel Aviv isn't big on sights, but if you've been to Jerusalem you've probably had a gutful anyway. If you just can't get enough, visit the Diaspora Museum, which chronicles Jewish culture in exile, or the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. When you've finished, wander through the markets of the Yemenite Quarter, stop for a cappuccino and then pull up some sand on one of the best beaches in the Middle East.
Hidey-holes and harbourside hedonism (25K)
It may be clichéd, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. No trip to Israel is complete without a float in the Dead Sea. The water is packed full of invigorating minerals and there's 10% more oxygen in the air here than at sea level. The area around the Dead Sea has plenty to keep you entertained once you've floated to your heart's content. Ein Gedi is one of the country's most attractive oases, a lush area of freshwater springs, waterfalls, pools and tropical vegetation and a haven for desert wildlife. Masada regularly gets the vote for the place to visit in Israel. This fortress atop a sheer-sided plateau was the last stand of the Zealots, Jewish rebels who rose against the Roman Empire in 66 AD. When defeat was inevitable, the 967 men, women and children holed up at Masada took their own lives rather than be captured. It's hard not to get caught up in the spirit of the place, but even if you don't, the views are superb.
So that's how Jesus did it (23K)
Serious Bible territory, this is where Jesus did most of his preaching as well as a spot of water walking and some fish multiplying. It's also Israel's lushest region, with green valleys, verdant forests, fertile farmland and the Sea of Galilee. Nazareth, Jesus' childhood home, is a popular destination for pilgrims, but not much chop for the casual visitor. Although there are some important churches here, such as the Basilica of the Annunciation where the Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary, the town itself is pretty ugly. Tiberias, on the western shore of Lake Galilee, is a much better base for enjoying the area. Spend the day enriching your soul at the tombs of ancient sages, then soak away the pains of the body in the town's famous hot springs. The Galilee is also home to the country's most extensive archaeological site, Beit She'an. The site is still being excavated, but a beautifully-preserved Roman amphitheatre, Byzantine baths, a temple and a colonnaded Roman street have already been uncovered. The site is on the Tiberias-Jerusalem bus route.
Excellence in excavation (22K)
Bethlehem is a cynic's delight, with Manger Square, Manger St, Star St, Shepherds' St, two Shepherds' Fields and an unheavenly host of 'Christmases', but if you've got even the remotest Christian background, you're bound to wind up here. Bethlehem is built around Manger Square, the town centre and, strangely, the town carpark. The Church of the Nativity is the raison d'Ωtre of this holy town, and one of the world's oldest working churches. Built over the spot where Jesus is said to have been born, it's a suitably august and venerable piece of architecture. If kitsch is more to your taste, take a look at Milk Grotto Chapel, a shrine to the Virgin Mary's lactations. Rachel's Tomb, on the edge of town, is one of Judaism's most sacred shrines, and is also revered by Muslims and Christians. There's not much accommodation in Bethlehem, but it's only a 40-minute bus ride from Jerusalem.
Beautifully situated between the scenic mountains of Gerizim and Ebal, Nablus is the largest of the West Bank towns. It's a typical, bustling Arab town with an enchanting old quarter. The Nablus skyline is punctuated by 30 minarets - one of the most impressive belongs to the An-Nasir Mosque. A few doors up from the mosque you will find Touqan Castle, an old Turkish mansion. Although it's privately owned, you should be allowed to have a look at the garden and the exterior architecture. East of the mosque is the oldest working Turkish bath in the country. Built around 1480, the lovingly restored bath has a hot room, a massage room and a central hall, where you can recline on cushions while you sip black coffee or mint tea. Bathing hours are sex segregated. You can get to Nablus by bus or share taxi from East Jerusalem.
Prayer time on the West Bank (13K)
Before the Crusaders arrived and started tearing the country to pieces, Ramla was Palestine's Arab capital. Built in 716 AD, the city - to the south-east of Tel Aviv - is now bypassed by most travellers and pilgrims. Only a few worn Islamic monuments stand testaments to its former glories. However, the mix of an old Arab quarter of crumbling stone buildings set amongst green parkland and eucalyptus tree-lined avenues makes this a very attractive small town. The best day to visit is Wednesday, when the town's market is held. Frequent buses run between Tel Aviv and Ramla - it's a 45-minute trip.
If you thought Jerusalem was timeless, you'll be blown away by Akko. This stone fortress/city by the sea has had an exceptionally lively history under Alexander the Great, the Egyptians and the Romans, but its heyday was as the Crusader city of Acre. Old Akko is largely Arab, and as such has dodged development investment and large-scale tourism, and city walls separate Old Akko from the sprawling modern Jewish town to its north. Eight metres below present-day Akko is the subterranean Crusader city, a series of echoing vaulted halls which were once the quarters of the Knights Hospitallers. Opposite the entrance to the subterranean city is the Mosque of Al-Jazzar, with its distinctly Turkish green dome and pencil minaret. Just to the east of the mosque you'll find the souq, an unadulterated slice of the orient. Every October, Akko hosts a fringe theatre festival. There are a few places to stay and eat here, or you can make the 40-minute bus trip from Haifa.
This beautiful valley between the Lebanese border and the Golan mountians is a unique wetlands wildlife sanctuary. The reserve is home to wild papyrus, pelicans, sea eagles, otters, jungle cats and boar. The Hula Vally also provides a migratory station for birds, with many coming from as far as Scandinavia, Russia and India. The reserve has a very good visitors' centre which explains the area's flora and fauna and also rents binoculars. To the south of the reserve is Dubrovin Farm, a reconstructed Jewish settlers' farm from the turn of the century.
Israel's changing landscapes make this a great country for hiking, whatever your fitness level. Good spots to try include the Maktesh Ramon crater in the Negev, Wadi Qelt in the West Bank and various trails in the Golan. It's worth visiting the SPNI for more information on hiking. If you'd rather sit on a horse than use your own feet, there are lots of riding centres in the Galilee, Golan and Tel Aviv areas. For swimming try Tel Aviv's beaches and Eilat (if you can bear the resort atmosphere), which is also good for windsurfing, sailing, waterskiing and diving. For an extraordinary diving experience, visit Caesarea, where you can dive the ruins of Herod's city.
 Getting There & Away
It can be very difficult to get a flight out of Israel, so think twice before knocking back that onward or return ticket. Eastern European airlines offer the cheapest tickets, but you get what you pay for. Many people choose to fly El Al for security reasons. Australasians can't get a direct flight to Israel, so consider flying to Europe then looking for a cheap ticket. Cheap charters sometimes fly into Ovda, just outside Eilat, rather than the larger airports, so it's worth looking into this option. In November 1998, a new international airport opened in Gaza. To avoid an Israeli stamp in your passport, you can fly El Al or Air Sinai from Egypt to Israel.
If you are planning to go to Lebanon or Syria, do so before you go to Israel - if there's an Israeli stamp in your passport, neither of these countries will let you in. Although Jordan and Egypt have open borders with Israel, you may not cross them in a taxi or a hire car. Buses travel direct between Tel Aviv/Jerusalem and Cairo (a 10-hour trip) or you can catch a series of buses via Rafah or Eilat. There are three border crossings to Jordan - the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge (where helpful officials may avoid stamping your passport), the Jordan River (which is not particularly convenient to anywhere) and Arava (two km north-east of Eilat). Buses run through all of these crossings, and the exit tax from Israel varies between 50 NIS and 90 NIS. A ferry service runs between Haifa and Athens, Greece, usually via Crete or Cyprus.
 Getting Around
Israel is so small that it would be silly to fly, but if you must there are flights between Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Haifa, Rosh Pina and Eilat. Buses are cheap and go almost everywhere - the state company, Egged, is the second largest bus company in the world. Arab buses, though older and slower than their Israeli counterparts, provide a better service to Nazareth, East Jerusalem and the West Bank. Jewish buses usually don't run on Shabbat. The small train network is cheaper than the buses, but there is only one main route, between Tel Aviv and Haifa, with one train a day between Haifa and Jerusalem. Share taxis, or sheruts, are one of the most popular forms of transport, particularly because they run on Shabbat. If you are travelling to the Golan or the Negev, where bus services are sparse, consider hiring a car.
- Winner Takes All by Stephen Brook is getting a bit out of date but is still a great primer for a visit to Israel.
- Jerusalem: City of Mirrors by Amos Elon is an illuminating and entertaining guide to the author's home town.
- From Beirut to Jerusalem by Pulitzer Prize winner Thomas Friedman gives an excellent background to the strife still tearing apart this region.
- Gaza: Legacy of an Occupation by Dick Doughty and Mohammed El-Aydi gives an emotive, gritty view of Palestenian life in the Strip.
- Exodus by Leon Uris is a hugely popular, hugely fat novel with an Israeli theme, great for long bus rides.
- The Bible - the classic travelogue to this part of the world.
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