ISRAEL

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

Australian passport holders have to pay JD16 for a visa along with the updated 57NIS departure tax from Israel

Departure tax is payable from the King Hussein/Allenby bridge of JD4.

King Husssein/Allenby Bridege border closes at 11.30 pm and opens at 6.30 am.

The last bus from the Israeli side to Jerusalem leaves at 7 pm and my suggestion is to get there well in time to make the bus as the taxis all charge 30NIS per person with a full taxi only.
Rebekah Nathan (June 98)

Look, for newcomers and oldtimers, the visa deal is this:
All Arab countries of the Middle East, the Gulf and North Africa (except Egypt, Jordan and Morocco), as well as Iran, some African countries and a few other Muslim countries in Asia, refuse entry to travellers whose passport bears evidence of a visit to Israel. 'Evidence' means Israeli stamps of any kind (entry or exit, or visas for other countries issued in Tel Aviv), plus entry or exit stamps from the Egyptian border posts at Taba (near Eilat) and Rafah (Gaza Strip), or the Jordanian border posts at the Sheikh Hussein Bridge (near Irbid), the King Hussein Bridge (near the Dead Sea) or the Wadi Araba crossing (between Aqaba and Eilat). ISRAEL: Will *always*, at all borders and airports, stamp you in and out on a piece of paper rather than in your passport, if you ask them forcefully enough. This fact solves 99% of 'keeping Israel out of my passport' problems. Free visas issued to everybody on arrival.

EGYPT: Reasonably cheap visas issued to most nationalities on arrival; they never stamp you in or out on a piece of paper. Entry or exit stamps from the Egyptian crossing points into Israel at both Rafah and Taba will prohibit later travel into countries that refuse entry to people with evidence of a visit to Israel. If you explain you want to travel on into other Arab countries after Israel, most Western consulates in Cairo will issue travellers with limited validity second passports for tourist travel to Israel only.

JORDAN: Visas (sometimes nastily expensive) issued to most Western nationalities on arrival. They'll never stamp you *in* on a piece of paper (see exception below), but will always stamp you *out* on one if you want. The King Hussein/Allenby Bridge between Jordan and the West Bank is not seen as an international border by Jordan: no visas are issued here for arriving travellers, and, if you leave Jordan via this bridge, you are permitted to return THE SAME WAY without buying a new visa (provided your old one is still valid). Drawback: Israel charges a US$35 departure tax to cross the Allenby Bridge; with taxes and transport costs all included, the overland journey from Amman to Jerusalem and back again costs about US$70 per person. Stamps from the two crossing-points from Jordan into Israel (the Sheikh Hussein Bridge and the Aqaba-Eilat border) will prohibit later travel into countries that refuse entry to people with evidence of a visit to Israel.

SYRIA: Never stamp you in or out on a piece of paper. Visas required by everyone in advance, except South Africans, who can get them issued free on the border on arrival. Syrian visas are issued in Cairo, but are difficult to get. In Amman, it's virtually impossible: all applications must be accompanied by a letter of recommendation (not issued by the US consulate; Brits must pay UKú24 for one) and even then the majority of applications are rejected without reason. Turkey is equally problematic. The only trouble-free place to get a Syrian visa is as far away from Syria as possible, preferably your home country. Syrian officials treat a brand-new, clean passport recently issued in Amman or Cairo as evidence of concealment of a visit to Israel and may well refuse you entry even if you hold a valid Syrian visa. Syria is at war with Israel. A plane ticket showing evidence of past or future travel to Israel (i.e., flying into Damascus and out of Tel Aviv) will mean you'll be refused entry into the country (if they notice): a reputable travel agent who knows what's what should never issue you with such a ticket. If you're refused a Syrian visa in Amman, flights to Istanbul/Ankara are about US$200. If you're refused one in Turkey, you can get the boat from Marmaris to Rhodes, then another to Limassol (Cyprus). Try for a Syrian visa in Nicosia if you fancy. There are ferries from Limassol to Haifa (Israel) - and daily buses from there to Amman - or cheapish flights from Larnaca to Tel Aviv, Amman, Cairo or Beirut.

LEBANON: Visas are now issued on arrival at all borders to all Europeans, plus Americans, Canadians & Australians (but not NZ). Lebanon is at war with Israel and the border between the two countries is not open to foreigners. Syria doesn't issue visas in Lebanon, and if you don't hold a Syrian visa before you arrive in Lebanon, you must leave the country by air or by sea. That's it.
taken from the Thorn Tree (Apr 98)

Allenby Bridge/Jisr al-Malek al-Hussein Border Crossing - There is now a departure tax at this border crossing and it is 4JD each. We arrived thinking there was no such tax and we had to change money. The bank there much make a killing as there is a 1JD commission and if you are leaving the country, you'll only be changing enough to cover the tax. We crossed the street and found a restaurant owner who changed ú5 for us, no commission and a free cup of tea, which got us through. Lots of travellers in the same position weren't so fortunate.
Caroline Logan & Andrew Osborne

With just a single entry visa for Jordan, I was able to cross from Jordan to Israel to Jordan again at Allenby Bridge Border Crossing,with no problems. I did not need a special permit to visit the West Bank from Jordan's Ministry of the Interior.
Andrea King - Australia (Dec 97)

As far as visa procedures are concerned, the Aqaba border crossing is a breeze but Israeli exit tax has very recently been raised to 56 NIS. A visa into Jordan costs 16JD for US citizens, which is probably the most expensive (its free for Aussies). Jordanian exit tax. Don't make the mistake I did and make sure you have enough to get back into Israel.
Jeff Skinner - UK - (Dec 97)

You cannot obtain money from anywhere with visa or any other ATM cards, and, in addition, money changers will charge 50%commission from travellers cheques.
Jason Greer - Australia - (Dec 97)

The Wadi Nisnas neighbourhood of Haifa has a lot of public art and sculpture with painted yellow footsteps on the sidewalks to follow as a "tour". The 'art tour' is short and very pleasant (and free).
Edith Starr, USA (Feb 99)

In Tel Aviv there is a great market on Nahalat Binyamin Street every Tuesday and Friday. Lots of local arts and crafts, street performances and local cafe culture. It's also right next to Hakarmel Market which has everything from cheap clothes to vegetables. One of my favourite places in Tel Aviv.
Shimrit Elisar, UK (Jan 99)

Although it's possible to cash eurocheques, due to a new (official) bank policy, you pay 130 NIS commission per cheque.
Mrs. Babette Peperkamp, The Netherlands (Sept 98)

It is possible to buy tickets for Ramparts Walk on Saturdays and a special deal is available only at the Damascus Gate. This is by means of a joint ticket costing 25 NIS which allows access to the Ramparts, the Roman Square excavations, the Ophel Archaeological Gardens, Gihon Spring and Zediakah's Tunnel, which is valid for five days. This is great value and can be purchased at any of the five venues. On Saturdays, purchase this at the Roman Square excavations by Damascus Gate and you will have access to the Ramparts straight away

The Ophel Archaeological Gardens, in Jerusalem are well worth visiting, particularly with the joint discount ticket. The Gardens are just south of the Western Wall and include a wide range of interesting excavations. They also feature a wonderful new shelter where you can sit away from the sun and it's such a sparling design its worth visiting just to see this. Unfortunately there isn't much in the way of interpretation, but you get right up to the old walls of the second temple and can appreciate the sheer size of the stones used. Access is just by the Dung Gate.

Museum prices appear to have risen substantially since your guide was published, often by between 30 - 50%. Also, taxi fares have increased and it seems to cost about 25NIS minimum to cross town. You can, however, beat them down from an initial quote of what may be 35 or 40 NIS.

We would strongly recommend that visitors don't immediately rush to the Temple of the Mount, however much of an attraction it might be. Take some time first of all to walk the Ramparts, explore the four quarters, visit some of the viewpoints and historic sites. We found that by eventually visiting the Temple after four or five days exploring the city, everything made much more sense from a historical and topographical point of view. And it 's so peaceful once there, I think you appreciate it even more after a few days dashing through busy streets and alleyways. Make sure you leave the temple mount on time, however, as the officials get quite angry when visitors try to spin out their visit. I got a real mouthful and we should respect their views.
Roger Butler, UK (Sept 98)

If flying to Turkey from Israel, change your money in Israel. We found it impossible to get rid of our shekels in Turkey.
Esther Shannon(Aug 98)

When dialling from outside Israel, the area code is one digit. (eg. 2 for Jerusalem, 5 for cell phones). When inside Israel, area codes have two digits (eg. 02 for Jerusalem.)
Jerome Fishkin (June 1998)

In Eilat be wary of the Information Booth next to and inside, the big indoor mall near the beach and the one across the street from the New Tourist Centre. These Information Booths appear to be public/government tourist information but they are profit ventures that apparently make their revenue by their referrals with a built in commission. They direct you to places in their best interests, not the tourists, and one may pay as much as 30% more for a ticket than if purchasing it directly, or from a non-profit tourist office. The non-profit tourist information booth is up in the 'Burger King' building.

Jordan, Israel and Egypt have been working on constructing "The Peace Promenade", a boardwalk along the entire Gulf Coast. I believe it will be about fourteen kilometres, when completed, as of now they have built about three kilometres.
Mark Pollock (March 1998)

If you arrive from Cyprus, expect more questions on your entry.

I found a cash limit of $1000 on ATM withdrawals on AMEX card. To convert shekels back to dollars at the airport, after passport control, go to the window next to VAT refunds.
Julie Hassenmiller (June 1998)

There is no train service between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv (both directions) now and for the next 18 months or so as the lines are being upgraded. Frequent bus service is available from the Tel Aviv train station as well as from the Central Bus Station in both cities.
Jonathan Danilowitz, Israel (Oct 98)

It's very easy to go to Jordan from Eilat. Although it's really expensive to cross the border (prices vary, depending on your nationality), the carved stone city of Petra is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen in my life. This impressive and beautiful place is really worth all the money you spend and deserves a recommendation.

The way to go to Petra is on your own and not by organised tours. These cost about US$150 and don't provide your visa and entrance fee for Petra, which are the main costs. The best way is to take a cab or walk to the border. Be there by 6.30 am so that you have the whole day to spend. Take a cab to Petra (maximum charge about 15 dinars for a single journey) or take a cab to Akkaba bus station and take a bus to Petra. The bus doesn't ride regularly and doesn't start before 8 am. Although more expensive, I recommend to take a cab to Petra. It's also quite easy to share a cab with some fellow travellers you'll meet at the border. If you have some time to spend, stay at least two days or promise that you will return to Jordan on a next holiday. It is important to remember to save some pennies for crossing the border to Israel again. Like Israel, Jordan charges you to leave the country.
Babette Peperkamp, The Netherland (Sept 98)

Take care on the Dead Sea. It's easy to become very relaxed when swimming here and one evening I got carried out quite some distance. Swimming back is not easy when your legs float on the surface

There has been some major and sudden subsidence in the Dead Sea region due to decreasing water levels and underground airlocks. I met a local woman who fell into an 8 m deep hole that opened under her feet, causing her to break her spine. It's best to stick to marked paths.

In Hebron, be in store for a bit of a shock. I found this place like a cowboy town after a show down. There is a bristling tension and armed soldiers on roof tops and street corners all around., Entering the Tomb is a long winded process, entailing passport control, bag search and metal detection. I found the contrast between the Jewish and Islamic side marked. Seeing the bullet holes left by Baruch Goldstein's massacre was chilling.

The market is definitely a must.
Johanna Stiebert, UK (Sept 98)

There is now one central train station in Tel Aviv which offers all train journeys including Jerusalem and Haifa. It is beside the bus station in Arlosoroff Street, Tel Aviv.

In front of the train station on the left side, there is a bus stop for bus number 222 to the airport. Taxis wait to collect travellers from the bus stop.
Susanne (Apr 98)

Buses to Ben Gurion airport only leave at the central bus station in Jerusalem. There are no longer stops at hotels in the city. These buses do not operate from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening because of Sabbath (18.50 NIS). The only alternative apart from taxis are service taxis for 34 NIS per person.

If you are going to Jordan via the Arva crossing near Eilat you can ask bus drivers to drop you off at the junction and walk the short distance to the border as we did coming from Jerusalem with bus 444. The departure tax was increased to 56 NIS. There is no longer a bus from Eilat to the border. A taxi should cost no more than 20 NIS from Eilat to the border.
Dr Annette Prelle - Germany (Mar 98)

I managed to catch Werner Braun, Israel's leading photo journalist over the last 50 years who had amazing black and white prints of events and wars around Jerusalem, especially before and after the 1967 war. Also, general shots detailing Jewish immigration and daily life in Israel.

Another exhibition worth seeing was the 50th year anniversary 1948 - 98, a collection of newspaper type black & white's showing the nation building that took place over this period.
Ben Nicolls - UK (Mar 98)

If you're going to Israel and want to do dolphin swimming, forget about Eilat's top dollars for a dip in a tub. Instead, head south to Port Nuweiba, where you will find a small village with a "pet" dolphin. You can swim with Oline but as she is a free dolphin, you can't count on her being there (though she usually is).
Lasse Jeremiassen (Mar 98)

The Etzel Museum/Jabotinsky Institute is worth a visit if you are seriously interested in Israeli politics. It is set up by the militant political ancestors of the current Likud government. It is certainly biased and sensationalist, but it gives an insight into the mind set of a large section of the Israeli voting public. The price is 6 NIS (3 NIS for students).
Tim Dymond - Australia (Nov 97)