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Indonesia |  |
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Introduction |
Introduction
Since the current edition of the book was published there have been rampant forest fires, the South-East Asian currency crash, riots all over the country and looting of Chinese shops, an explosion in unemployment numbers, a change of leader, galloping inflation and a plummeting rupiah. The weak currency means lower prices for travellers, but tourists have been staying away in droves, scared off by the political situation.
Despite all this, Indonesia is still a beautiful place to visit. If you're careful and, as the US State Department advises, steer clear of civil disturbances, you should be safe and travel is amazingly cheap. Some parts of the country, such as Bali, have not experienced civil strife.
The economic crisis and ensuing political upheaval has resulted in isolated disturbances across the country. It is unlikely you will come across anything, but it pays to keep abreast of the news if travelling extensively in Indonesia, especially leading up to the elections in June 1999. The fulfilment of democratic aspirations may mean that political strife has already peaked, but if it is does occur it is likely to happen in Java, the most populous island and political centre of Indonesia, but exactly where is anyone's guess. Jakarta will always be more active and Medan in Sumatra and Ujung Pandang in Sulawesi are other perennial hot spots around election times.Communal rather than political riots have been more common recently. Authoritarian rule and economic hope kept Indonesia unified during the Soeharto years, but old enmities are resurfacing. Christian attacks on Muslim communities in Ambon and West Kalimantan means those areas are best scrubbed from travel itineraries at present, and even ancient tribal wars have been revived, such as happened in West Sumba.
Facts about the Country
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
In late 1997, Indonesia's forest fires were among the worst environmental crises the world has seen. They were caused by a combination of drought, late monsoon (thought to be brought on by the El Niño), fires lit to clear forest (almost one million hectares were torched in 1997) and perpetually smouldering peat seams in East Kalimantan.Pollution from the widespread fires was devastating: airports closed, flights were cancelled, tourists went elsewhere; crops failed from lack of sunlight; respiratory ailments skyrocketed. There is no way to accurately predict long-term human health and environmental outcomes, but the fires are not a new phenomenon: they occurred in 1994 and 1991 and the 'Great Fire of Kalimantan' in 1983 destroyed 35,000 sq km of rainforest and was as big, if not bigger, than the 1997 fires. The fires were extinguished with the arrival of the monsoon in 1998.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
In August 1997, the run on the currencies of Thailand and Malaysia spilled over into Indonesia. The central bank was unable to support the rupiah and it plummeted.The IMF stepped in, pledging financial backing in return for economic reforms, including abolishing government subsidies on food and fuel, deregulating industry and abandoning grandiose high-tech, government-sponsored industries, many controlled by the huge business interests of the Soeharto family.
Rising prices resulted in sporadic riots, mostly in Java and southern Sulawesi, as the people already hard hit by the krisis moneter (monetary crisis) began looting shops owned by the minority ethnic Chinese, who form a significant business class. The economic miracle of high growth powered by massive foreign investment was over, and the Chinese became the scapegoats for this sudden loss of faith in the economy.
The markets saw chaos and savaged the rupiah, which bottomed at nearly 16,000 to the US$1 in January 1998, down from 2500 six months earlier. Foreign debt skyrocketed, inflation reached 80%, the banking system was in turmoil and many companies with overseas loans faced bankruptcy.
The IMF agenda seemed destined to bring further upheaval but when the government reviewed its pledge to cut subsidies, the IMF threatened to withdraw its financial package. At the same time, President Soeharto was up for re-election. The result was a foregone conclusion but, as never before, critics from the Muslim parties, student groups and others demanded that he step down and that Indonesia move towards a more open political system, free of corruption and nepotism.
Soeharto's re-election seemed to at least promise political certainty, and the government moved towards fulfilling IMF demands. The rupiah strengthened but so did demands for political reform. Student demonstrations across the country were peaceful and confined to university campuses, but in late April 1998 violence spilled over into the streets in Medan, and later Yogyakarta and Surakarta. On 4 May, the government announced fuel and electricity rises, as demanded by the IMF, adding to the hardship and furthering unrest.
Throughout the turmoil the army repeated its support for the government. Tanks appeared on the streets of Jakarta to confirm the army's intentions but student demonstrations demanding Soeharto's resignation would not go away. Then on 12 May 1998, soldiers swapped rubber bullets for live ammunition and shot dead four students at Trisakti University in Jakarta.
Jakarta erupted as rioters from outside the campuses went on the rampage. Ordinary people, the urban poor, joined in the looting as law and order collapsed and anarchy ruled. In three days of rioting and looting, over 6000 buildings in Jakarta were damaged or destroyed, and an estimated 1200 people died, mostly those trapped in burning shopping centres. Hardest hit were the Chinese, whose businesses were looted and destroyed, and shocking tales of rape and murder emerged after the riots.
The riots subsided but anti-Soeharto demonstrations increased while the army threatened to shoot on sight. Still Soeharto clung to the presidency, but after some of his own ministers called for his resignation, Soeharto finally stepped down on 21 May, ending 32 years of rule.
Vice-president BJ Habibie was sworn in as president and quickly set about releasing political prisoners and promising elections. However, as a long-standing minister and close friend of Soeharto, his credentials as a reformer were always going to be questioned.
After the euphoria of Soeharto's demise, the economy was still in tatters and the rupiah plumbed new lows, but Indonesia enthusiastically embraced a new era of political openness. The government talked about democracy, political reform and eliminating corruption but at the same time stalled on announcing an election date and reaffirmed the role of the army in Indonesian politics.
The army's reputation was severely tarnished. Not only had it started the riots by shooting students, then failed to contain the rioting, the newly vocal press also exposed army killings in the Sumatran province of Aceh and the abduction and murder of opposition activists.
As IMF money flowed into Indonesia, the currency strengthened, but widespread poverty resulted in continuing food riots. People sold their meagre possessions to buy food, while others simply took it. In uncertain times, old grudges resurfaced. The Chinese continued to be the main scapegoats, while in East Java, Muslim factionalism resulted in the bizarre serial killings of over 200 black magicians and Muslim clerics.
Student protests came to a head again in November 1998, when thousands rallied as the Indonesian parliament met to discuss terms for the new election. Student demands for the resignation of Habibie, immediate elections and the abolition of military appointees to parliament were ignored.
Tension on the streets of Jakarta was fuelled by thousands of pro-government youth militia employed by the authorities. Three days of skirmishes peaked on 13 November when a student march on parliament was met by military force and gunfire. Clashes left 12 dead and hundreds injured. Jakarta again was in flames, as shopping centres and Chinese businesses were looted and burnt.
Before the smoke had settled, a local dispute involving Christians from Maluku resulted in Muslims rampaging through the Ketapang district of Jakarta, burning churches. Christians throughout Indonesia were outraged, and in Kupang on the island of Timor, Christians attacked mosques and the minority Muslim community.
Communalism is an ever-present danger that threatens to Balkanise Indonesia. After the government set the election date for 7 June 1999, relative political peace returned in early 1999, but communal violence flared in Christian areas where many Muslims have been resettled from overcrowded Java.
On the island of Ambon, in Maluku province, a dispute between a Muslim migrant and a local Christian minibus driver on 19 January 1999 sparked weeks of clashes between the two communities. Scores were killed in bloody rioting and thousands of Muslims fled the island, which was closed to travel. Though order has been restored, the province remains tense.
In March 1999, in West Kalimantan's Sambas Regency, violence between Christian Dayaks and Muslim migrants from the island of Madura resulted in over 150 deaths. Separatist guerrilla activity in the staunchly Muslim province of Aceh has also been reported, the independence movement in Irian Jaya is gaining strength and tensions in East Timor are reaching new heights.
Indonesia is finally moving towards resolving the East Timor issue. After 23 years of Indonesian occupation, the new government offered autonomy within the republic to the former Portuguese territory. Independence was ruled out, but President Habibie did a sudden about face in January 1999, and Indonesia is now proposing a `direct' ballot on autonomy and independence. However, army crackdowns and rising tension between pro-Indonesian and pro-independence groups has seen renewed violence in East Timor.
Real stability is not expected to return until after the proposed June 1999 elections, and even then Indonesia's future remains unclear. Opposition leaders Amien Rais and Megawati Soekarnoputri, along with President Habibie, are frontrunners in Indonesia's first open elections in more than 40 years. Political tension seems likely in the lead-up to the elections, despite moves to restrict demonstrations and the army's dubious plan to employ thousands of civilian militia to help keep the peace.
Facts for the Visitor
VISAS & PERMITS
Generally the visa situation has remained stable, but try this Indonesian government link to get the latest information:
http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.html
For onward travel to Australia, almost all nationalities require a visa. Get one before you leave home or in Indonesia at the Australian Embassy (Tel 5227111), Jl Rasuna Said, Kav 15-16, Jakarta. The consulate (Tel 235092) at Jl Mochammad Yamin 4, Renon, Denpasar in Bali also handles visas. There is also a consular representative in Kupang, but visas have to be referred to Jakarta.MONEY
Several travellers wrote to say that they had difficulties changing foreign currencies other than US dollars outside the main cities. US dollars have always been the preferred foreign currency in Indonesia and they are now more in demand than ever. At this stage it is still best to take travellers cheques as a safeguard against theft or loss; take well-known and reputable brands, but also carry some cash for emergencies. Exchange rates for cash in Bali are higher than for travellers cheques. You'll get a much better rate for US$100 notes than for smaller amounts of cash.Costs
Inflation in 1998 reached 80% but has since fallen and the Indonesian government expects it to settle at around 20% in 1999. Price rises are not uniform. Imported goods or those with a large import component have risen the most, up to 400%, while many locally manufactured goods and services have risen only marginally.Accompanying the fuel rises in May 1998, the government announced increases in intercity bus fares of around 50% in Java and Bali, less in other regions. Train fares are up 100% and sea transport 50% or more. Taxis in Jakarta have risen to 2500 rp flagfall and 1000 rp/km. Expect similar rises in other cities (where the meter is used, that is). Airfares have risen the most (300%), because of the cost of imported components and leased aircraft; airlines are pressing the government for another increase. Air travel is now vastly more expensive than any other form of transport in Indonesia, but still quite cheap by world standards.
Rupiah prices for budget accommodation are up but the drop in tourism has kept a lid on rises. Price rises may be as high as 50%, but in some resorts where tourism has slumped, prices have hardly risen at all. Many mid-range and most top-end hotels have always quoted prices in US dollars, but US dollar prices are now meaningless. Most mid-range hotels are now quoting in rupiah but if you are shown US dollars rates, ask for the rupiah price and/or a discount. Prices are higher in Bali, where tourist numbers are still up, and upper range hotels are still quoting US dollar rates though discounts should be available for the asking. Outside Bali, some incredible bargains are on offer for mid-range and top end hotels.
For those with hard currency, Indonesia is exceptionally cheap at the moment. Apart from much lower travel costs, the country is a shopper's paradise.
Currency
The rupiah seems to be settling in at about 8000 to 10,000 rp to the US dollar, but check out the current rate on this currency converter link:
http://www.oanda.comBanks
The Indonesian banking sector is on its knees and dozens of private banks have closed. The government is merging and taking over many others. Some major private banks are still operating and you won't experience problems in the big cities but in remote areas foreign exchange can be more difficult. The government-owned Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) has branches right throughout the country and handles foreign exchange. Bank Rakyat Indonesia is also government owned and widely represented but many branches do not offer forex. In remote areas, change enough money to tide you over until the next main city.ATMs
Many Indonesian banks now have ATMs linked to international banking networks. Cash advances on Visa and MasterCard can also be made through many ATMs which display the relevant symbols. Cards and networks accepted by ATMs among Indonesia's main banks include:Bank Bali – MasterCard, Cirrus, Alto
Bank Central Asia (BCA) – Visa, Plus
Bank Duta – MasterCard, Visa
Bank Internasional Indonesia (BII) – MasterCard, Visa, Cirrus, Plus, Alto
Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) – MasterCard, Cirrus
Lippobank – MasterCard, Cirrus, Alto
Indonesian ATMs experience a lot of downtime. Except in major cities with many ATMs, don't rely on them. Most large towns have banks with ATMs these days, particularly in Bali and Java, but elsewhere ATMs are limited mostly to the provincial capitals and they do not always accept foreign cards.
HEALTH
Dengue fever, a viral disease transmitted by mosquitoes, occurs throughout Indonesia and is normally of only minor risk to travellers but a major outbreak occurred in 1998, when over 500 people died of the more serious dengue haemorrhagic fever (DHF). Symptoms of dengue fever include a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle pains, nausea and vomiting. A rash of small red spots appears three to four days after the onset of fever. Infection can be diagnosed by a blood test. Aspirin should be avoided, as it increases the risk of haemorrhaging. Severe complications are rare in travellers but include DHF, which can be fatal without prompt medical treatment. There is no vaccine against dengue. The best prevention is to avoid mosquito bites at all times.
One reader has written in warning of how easy it is to get eye infections (conjunctivitis) from mandi water on Pulau We in Sumatra. Another readers's letter informed us that seven people have drowned at the small waterfall or rapid just below the bridge crossing Bohorok River in Bukit Lawang, on the way to Wisma Leuser Sibayak. If you raft there be extremely careful.POST & COMMUNICATIONS
Email & Internet Access
Post offices in main cities throughout the country now have a Warposnet, which is a privately contracted Internet service, usually open to 8 pm. Rates are around 10,000 rp hour. A few smaller cities have a Warposnet, but they may be open office hours only.Internet cafes are also popular in the main cities and tourist areas but rates are higher. Indonesian servers are very slow as a rule. It can sometimes take forever to log onto popular Web sites and email services such as Hotmail.
INTERNET RESOURCES
For further up to date information on Indonesia, try the following hot links:
An excellent site for anyone planning on living in Indonesia, particularly Jakarta:
http://www.w3.r2-berlin.mpg.de/~wm/wm6.html
A super links site with thousands of Indonesian URLs:
http://www.expat.or.id/
A good general introduction to Indonesia with a range of links:
http://www.batavianet.com/links
Contains excellent daily news articles from the English-language Jakarta Post:
http://www.tempo.co.id/
The Indonesian national newswire Antara:
http:www.antara.co.id/
A tourist site with good info and pictures:
http://www.emp.pdx.edu/htliono/travel.htmlGetting There & Away
AIR
Departure Tax
International departure tax from Jakarta and Bali is now 50,000 rp.
SEA
To/From Malaysia
The ferry from Lumut in west Malaysia to Medan's port of Belawan in Sumatra has ceased operation. The ferry routes between Penang and Belawan, and Melaka and Dumai, are still operating.To/From the Philippines
Pelni has a scheduled ferry service between Bitung (near Manado) and Davao in the Philippines but the latest report is that it has stopped operation. It may start up again but don't count on it.To/From Papua New Guinea
Air Nuigini no longer flies between Vanimo and Jayapura. The only way between Irian Jaya and PNG is now by boat. The MV Naremo Express travels between Vanimo, in PNG, and the Pelni port in Jayapura, and back again, each Monday and/or Wednesday (depending on demand). The trip takes about two hours, and costs 60 kina, plus 30 kina departure tax, from PNG; and about 125,000 rp, plus 20,000 rp departure tax, from Jayapura. The alternative is to charter a boat (holding six) for about 500,000 rp one-way from Jayapura.
Getting Around
AIR
Air tickets have risen 300%. The domestic carriers have incurred huge losses and one major private airline, Sempati, has folded. The two-government owned airlines, Garuda and Merpati, are maintaining major routes in the national interest, but services have been drastically cut and many of the less profitable routes to smaller cities are no longer running. The main domestic carrier, Merpati, has always had a reputation for cancelling flights at the last minute on its less profitable runs. Airfares are now beyond many of the Indonesian middle class, seats are hard to fill and last-minute cancellations are more common.
Air links to the main cities of Nusa Tenggara, Sulawesi, Kalimantan, Maluku and Irian Jaya are still operating, but for travel within these regions, Pelni passenger boats are often more reliable. Given the currency devaluation, comfortable 1st or 2nd class travel on Pelni boats is now very affordable.
Domestic airport tax is no longer included in the ticket price and must be paid for at the airport (5500 to 11,000 rp depending on the airport).BUS
Theft in general is on the rise but theft on buses is much more common, mostly in Java but also Sumatra and Bali. We get regular letters from travellers who have lost passports and travellers cheques from their bags. Thieves board the buses and take the seat behind you, waiting for you to fall asleep or put your day pack on the floor, when they will slash it and be gone before you know it. Keep an eye on your gear and always wear a money belt when travelling. The chances of theft are reduced but not eliminated on deluxe buses.
Java
GETTING AROUND
Train
The train system on Java is steadily being upgraded. New luxury services have been added and some ekonomi trains are now limited express and seats can be booked. Stations in the big cities now have separate, computerised booking offices for the better, air-con trains, which are quicker and more comfortable than the buses. Book at least a day in advance for travel on weekends and holidays.In larger cities, ekonomi trains may now operate from other stations, not the central station. In Yogyakarta, economy trains depart from and arrive at Lempuyangan station, 1km east of the main Tugu station.
JAKARTA
A taxi from the Soekarno-Hatta International Airport to the city centre now costs around 40,000 rp, plus about another 10,000 rp in toll road and airport charges. Avoid unlicensed taxis. Damri airport buses (4000 rp) run every 30 minutes from around 3 am to 6.30 pm between the airport and Gambir station. Other airport buses also go to Blok M, Kemayoran, Rawamangun and Bogor.Crime is on the rise in Jakarta, including violent crime, which is almost unheard of in the rest of Indonesia. Robberies of foreigners at knife point by Jakarta taxi drivers have been reported. Those alone and drunk in the wee hours catching taxis from Jakarta nightspots are most at risk. Such incidents are very rare, however, and you are better off in a taxi than walking the streets alone at night. Stick to more reliable taxi companies, such as Bluebird, and avoid private, unregistered taxis.
Merpati now has an office (Tel 350 1433) at Gambir station, open 24 hours. Garuda's office (Tel 2311801) is now in the Garuda Building, Jl Merdeka Selatan 13.
The Telkom office, opposite the tourist information centre in the Jakarta Theatre building, has closed.
For ekonomi trains to Bogor, board them at Gondangdia station, only a short stroll from Jl Jaksa. The better Pakuan bisnis trains leave from Gambir station.
KRAKATAU
Given the lack of travellers to Carita, it is difficult to find others to share the cost of chartering a boat to the island volcano. Chartering a speed boat, the best and safest option, costs around 1 million rp. Boat charter is cheaper from the Sumatran port of Kalianda. Because of volcanic activity, it is not possible to climb the volcano.
PANGANDARAN
The trails in the national park are now closed to protect wildlife.Bali
KUTA
Moneychangers in Kuta offer good rates but short-changing is chronic. Those rates posted outside may look fantastic until you are told a 5%, 10% or even more commission applies, after you sign your travellers cheque. Calculators are also rigged to automatically deduct `commission'. Always determine the exact exchange rate beforehand and always count your rupiah. If you are given a huge pile of small notes, expect some to be missing. Changing money in $100 lots makes mental arithmetic easier.
UBUD
LP has received a glowing report about the Ubud Sam Health Resort, which offers massages and volcanic ash mud baths for $US20.
Nusa Tenggara
LOMBOK
The largest freshwater spring in Lombok is Jobja, and it is now reportedly off limits to tourists and locals. You are not permitted to view it or to take photographs.Please respect the living coral on the Gili Islands, which is coming under pressure from increased tourist numbers.
WEST TIMOR
The Kupang area code has changed to Tel 0380.Kalimantan
The dates of the Erau Festival seem to change frequently, so before arriving be sure to get correct information from the East Kalimantan Regional Tourism Service: Jalan Harmonika No 1, Samarinda Tel 0541- 41669. Many travellers who go especially for the festival have come away disappointed.
Sulawesi
The Toloka Foundation in the Togian Islands needs urgent help to combat a population explosion of Crown of Thorns Starfish. The starfish are devastating coral reefs around the islands, and visitors to the islands can go on a 'Bintang Tour', to manually pull starfish off the reefs and keep the population in check. You can contact Mandi & Pete Peehan in the UK on Tel 0-1666 577096, or send questions or comments to: TogLovers@aol.com
Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don't stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Indonesia. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers' reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site:
Scoop – Indonesia News Archive
Postcards – Travellers' Reports From Indonesia
The Thorn Tree – Indonesia Travellers' Bulletin Board
Destinations – Lonely Planet's Online Mini Guide to Indonesia
Propaganda – Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to Indonesia –
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