INDONESIA

Country Updates

Watch what you say. Keep out of politics. As westerners, many Indonesians think that we are all experts on politics, democracy, etc. They will often listen to opinions even if the person speaking has very little knowledge of the situation. ItÆs better to stick to lame, non-committal answers such as, æI hope that the result will make life better for everybodyÆ, or, æI just want to see an Indonesia where everybody can live peacefullyÆ. DonÆt criticise Indonesian organisations - you never know who you are speaking to.
David Bradbury, Indonesia (Apr 99)

Australians intending to travel to Indonesia are advised to consider deferring non-essential travel to Jakarta for the time being. There have been a number of violent demonstrations and instances of looting in Jakarta and in some regional centres in recent weeks. These have resulted in some deaths and the burning of buildings and destruction of property. Demonstrations are expected to continue and there is a possibility that these could become the trigger for acts of lawlessness and possible loss of life. Demonstrations can cause disruptions to traffic in many parts of the city.

Australian citizens resident in Jakarta (and regional centres) and those intending to visit are advised to keep themselves well informed of developments that might effect their safety and maintain a high level of personal security awareness and vigilance in light of possible threats to public order. They should in particular avoid large gatherings or demonstrations which have the potential to turn violent without warning. Travellers should also be aware that there is a general increase in the incidence of robbery and street crime generally. Bali remains calm and services for tourists are operating normally. Medical and travel insurance is strongly recommended. Australians in Indonesia are encouraged to register their presence in the country with the Australian Embassy, which can be contacted by telephone on (62-21) 522 7111 or by fax on (62-21) 522 7101. For information on current developments, the Embassy website can be located at either http//www.austembjak or id/new.htm. Visitors to Bali can contact the consulate on (62-361) 23 5092 or by fax on (62-361) 23 1990. The department of foreign affairs and trade in Canberra can be contacted on (02) 6261 3305.

NB: While every care has been taken in preparing this travel advice, neither the Australian government nor its agents or employees including any member of Australia's consular staff abroad, can accept liability for injury, loss or damage arising in respect of any statement contained herein. Most recent previous issue: 14 November 1998. Consular services, including information for travellers and travel advice, are also available from the department's homepage on the internet. The address is:
http://www.dfat.gov.au/consular
Consular services - travel advice - Indonesia 25 November 1998

We were told by the guidebook and by letters to the LP newsletter that the four week visa necessary to enter Jayapura could be extended for two weeks, but this was not possible! We ended up paying the Rp25,000 a day fine for overstaying. We were told by immigration officials that the visitor visa is not extendable, and that you have to get your full time when you apply. Only the sponsor visa can be extended.
Aaron & Vanessa Petty, Papua New Guinea (Dec 98)

You can cross between Nunukan and Tawau; I just did it a few days ago. You don't need any special visa to leave Indonesia to go to Tawau (the boat takes 2 hours), but you need one to re-enter Indonesia. You can get a visa in Tawau for RM125. Easy, no problem. But you can only get one month.
William, Thorn Tree (Dec 98)

The departure tax in Bali is now 50,000 rupiah.
Steve Lueke, USA (Nov 98)

We had to pay for a visa to exit Sabah to Indonesia. It's 120RM for the standard three month visa plus 10RM for four passport photos. So this is not a visa free entry point. The only one currently from East Malaysia to Indo is Entikong.
Sophy D'Angelo - UK (Apr 98)

It is now necessary for Americans to have a visa upon arrival in Australia. Visas can be obtained in Bali and Jakarta for free. If arranged in Kupang it will cost $35.
Michael Kohn - USA (Nov 97)

Travel permits: you need a "surat jalan" in almost every place in Irian Jaya except the big towns. One day it took us three days to get the stamps we needed on the "surat jalan". A photocopy of your photo is good as sometimes you have to make a new surat jalan because the old one is full of stamps. Only one time did we have to pay a policeman money to get a stamp (3,000rp).
Herman van der Kuil - Netherlands (Oct 97)

There are practically no credit card facilities on Flores or Lombok, which is in marked contrast to the myriad facilities available on Bali. We got badly stuck in Labuanbajo with very little money, no travellers checks and only a piece of plastic between us. Pelni Shipping saved the day for us. They gave us cash on our card albeit for an outrageous 15% cut - but this was infinitely better than travelling seven hours in a ferry and then by land back to Bima on Sumbawa.
Caoimhe McCabe, Australia (Mar 99)

Bali Bird Park, near Gianyar: still wonderful but it now costs 57,000 rupiah. A better monetary deal can be had by going to both the Bird Park and the Reptile Park.
The Denpasar bird market is worth visiting if youÆre into birds, monkeys, chooks, etc. It has a very wide variety of species from Indonesia and beyond.
Marion Massam, Australia (Mar 99)

If drinking or karaoke isnÆt your bag you can go and challenge Ujung PandangÆs best in chess over in Karebosi Park. ThereÆs a shelter on the north end of the park and in the latter half of the afternoon tables are set up and the chess mania begins. Winner stays on and if you show an interest you will be invited to sit down and do battle.

Times are a little lean for the folks down on Bira Beach. The current economic and political crisis has scared away much tourism and has driven up prices of essential goods. It was also the wet season so that wouldnÆt have helped either. During my seven day stay at Bira there was only ever a handful of foreigners down at the beach. Many guesthouses and cafes were closed or running on æskeleton staffÆ who had almost nothing to do but lay around sleeping or smoking endless cigarettes. Even so, the people there are very easy going and friendly. The pace of life is deliciously slow. ItÆs a great place to put away those long pants and don the shorts and t-shirt and just relax. There is also much to see and do around Bira so if youÆre feeling energetic you could easily while away a week or two.
Steve Mabey, Netherlands (no date)

While in Bali I discovered that money exchanging is best done using US$100 notes. You get a better rate for one US$100 note than for two US$50 notes. Some places didn't even accept US$20 or lower notes.
Tjeerd Stevens (Mar 99)

We went to Mount Merapi. We left Yogya at around 10 pm and drove to the volcano where we arrived around midnight and got a small snack. You'd better bring your own torch because they charge you like crazy and you cannot do anything but pay because there's no alternative. In addition, the batteries are, most of the time, not new and you end up with a very faint light in the middle of the night. It's a pretty steep walk especially near the top of the volcano where it's very slippery. It's a four hour climb (at least) but it's really worth it because you have such a wonderful view over the valley when you climb and then an amazing view of the volcano, the crater, the smoke and the surrounding peaks. It's very cold up there and one should bring a warm jacket. It was the first time I'd climbed a volcano and I was really impressed - strongly recommended.
Marie Lesaicherre, Singapore (Feb 99)

We are having trouble getting money in Indonesia. We have a US$500 travellers' cheque, but the maximum banks will cash is $300. We also have $100 denomination travellers cheques (in Canadian dollars), but noone will accept these either. If it wasn't for friends we would be hungry by now! Take US cheques in small denominations.
Beth Brown, Canada (Feb 99)

The diving I did in Bali was brilliant! (Menjangan and Tulamben). BUT, be very careful about who you dive with. My guide at Tulamben had his share of dives but was only an advanced PADI diver, though he presented himself as a divemaster. Be sure you have some experience (not just an open water certificate you bought in Aruba where conditions are too perfect) because the sea around Bali can get pretty rough and fierce currents are not unusual. Be sure to prepare your dive (use the wheel or your own computer to set your limits). Do not rely on the local guides who bear no responsibility for you since they're just not qualified. But if you get the chance, try a night dive at the Liberty wreck in Tulamben: amazing fluorescent plankton and fish everywhere.
Darja Tjioe, The Netherlands (Dec 98)

In general, diving in Manado is a bit more expensive than letÆs say in Bali, the Philippines, or Thailand. This is mainly to do with local factors (all equipment has to be bought and maintained in Singapore; there are quite a few official and unofficial taxes and fees). Moreover, ManadoÆs licensed dive operations have founded an association which actively works for the protection of the reefs and donates money to the park authorities to help them with the upkeep of the National Park.

Unfortunately Manado also has a not-so-new problem with growing numbers of diver operations which are not licensed PADI or any of the other dive associations and quite often are not even in possession of the necessary local licenses. Most of them are working with second or third hand equipment and unlicensed dive guides. IÆm not a diver myself but go out to Bunaken a lot. Almost always I can see at least one of these operations anchoring at the reef (which is absolutely forbidden for members of the dive association), and I hear almost weekly reports from guests about near accidents with them. Unfortunately they can offer much cheaper prices than ManadoÆs licensed centres since they donÆt pay taxes, license fees, PADI fees and donÆt help with the upkeep of the reef. Still more unfortunate is that a lot of diving backpackers only see the price and go with them, not being aware that they are contributing to the destruction of our reefs. In the end many of them are quite disappointed because they get what they paid for: cheap diving. We will probably never see those guests again in North Sulawesi, and this is one of the reasons why diving in Manado has got quite a bad reputation.
Peter Blumtritt, Indonesia (Dec 98)

Trying to communicate in Indonesian and Balinese made a huge difference to the attitude of the street and shop sellers. We left our shoes outside shops and houses, bargained politely and quietly, smiled and said "No thank you; I don't need one" to the street sellers. Magically, we walked hassle-free. At one shop I had to bargain upwards, not downwards, so determined was the woman to give me something for nothing. After our deal was struck, a painter told me that he was glad his paintings were going with me - and I knew I was paying far less than the tourist price - because I speak quietly. Close your eyes and listen to some of the bargaining around you on the street, and you will appreciate what he meant.
Cassandra Perry, Australia (Dec 98)

Londa, Sulawesi: the boys with lamps offering themselves as guides are absolutely necessary, but will try and charge 15,000rp and up, telling you that there is a 10,000rp tax, which is a blatant lie. The actual price should be around 5,000rp. There is also an admittance fee of 3000rp at the gate.
Susanne Rose, Australia (Dec 98)

Tanenbam is a very large, modern city. However, there is only one small loseman which was full at the time we were there.

If you want to see manta rays, ask a dive operator in Sanur to take you to Manta Point on the east side of Nusa Perida. However, you need to go between December 15th and the end of February.
Lauren Bauer, USA (Dec 98)

Stopping at any place outside Dili still attracts the attention of the police; expect some sort of interview if you stop long enough to be noticed.

For a day trip from Labuanbajo to look for dragons, Rinca is a better option than Komodo, as you are more likely to get there before they trot off for a siesta.

Singapore Airlines have moved their office from Sanur to Denpasar; they are now located in the Bank Bali building, located on the corner of Jl Diponegoro and Jl Dewi Sartika.
Dennis Collins, Australia (Dec 98)

Bada Valley, Sulawesi: guides to visit the megaliths, or for the hike to Gimpu or Besoa can be hired locally. They may not speak much English, but they are surely cheaper than the guides from Tentena, and this way more of the tourist money stays in the area. Reaching the Bada Valley from Tentena requires no guide as you can take a jeep or walk on a wide track.
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)

I suggest that every traveller to Indonesia invest in a small pocket calculator; this small item will help immensely when changing money. Beware of some money-changers' calculators: I was cheated out of US$20 by a changer in Kuta due to his calculator which miraculously came up with a lower figure every time. Also, if the money changer does not understand that giving a receipt is necessary, you know that you have walked in to the wrong money-changer.

You can purchase telephone cards from the money-exchange counter at the departure lounge in Denpasar. Beware of a semi-official looking man trying to sell you a used card for 40,000 rupiah.

Gunung Batur: the road around Lake Batur is impassable in the last few hundred metres when going counter-clockwise. The road becomes very rough after the village of Songan, and the last few hundred metres of the road to Penelokan takes a steep 45 degree angle and is completely broken with huge crators. If you want to drive around Gunung Batur, it is better to go clockwise.
Sarovara, Taiwan (Dec 98)

We arrived at Pulau Batam from Singapore too late for the boat service to Sumatra - it finishes at 10am. Rather than stay on the very expensive island, we took a boat to Tanjung Balai on Pulau Karimun, which was a very nice place to stay for a day before travelling to Sumatra. We caught the boat to Pekanbaru the day after. It was worth seeing a part of Indonesia off the beaten track.
Ture Alsvik, Denmark (Nov 98)

A good way to visit the Singosari temples around Malang is by bicycle. You can rent one from the Toko Oen in Malang. It is best to start with Candi Singosari, then cycle to Candi Jago uphill. Afterwards you can cycle to Candi Kidal and from there on it is almost always downhill to Malang. This outing can easily be done in one day.
Guido Faes, Belgium (Nov 98)

Ampana: Bendi is the local name for the horse and carts. There are no bemos within town; they are reserved for trips to other towns.

Lore Lindu National Park: Sedoa is the most northern city of Napu Valley and has naturally occurring hot water springs flowing just 20m from the road. There is a sign ("Air Panas") on the road showing the path.
Andrew Cossen & Mark Nussbaum, Australia (Nov 98)

Mt Bromo, Java: although it can be foggy in the rainy season, it is still worthwhile to get up for the sunrise tour around Mt Bromo and the peak. We found the fog rolled in and somewhat blocked our view at the summit lookout point, but the trip to Bromo itself was fantastic and well worth the early morning wake-up.

There are two train stations in Yogyakarta. We accidentally dismounted the train at the wrong station which is 4km outside the city centre.

Bukit Lawang (Sumatra): You definitely need a flashlight to walk around at night. This small village has very little energy resource in the way of power, and it often goes out. There are also very few lights on around the town at night, so getting back to your room can be difficult unless you have a torch handy.
Martin & Christina Semler, Canada (Oct 98)

Regarding money changing: there is a danger of the unsuspecting tourist being ripped off, especially in Kuta. It was our experience that it was better to visit those moneychangers offering a good rate but not the very best, as these were more likely to be dodgy. Furthermore, it was best to avoid those offering a funny rate - ie. choose those offering 10700, 10800, 10900 etc., not those offering 10995 or anything other than nice round numbers; it becomes very confusing when you start to multiply those rates.

Transport proved easy to arrange throughout Kuta, Ubud, Candidasa and Senggigi; you could not walk down the street without receiving numerous offers of "Transport, Boss." The lack of road signs, some lunatic driving habits (especially at night) and the police looking for bribes made the option of hiring a driver more attractive. This was easy; it certainly was a buyer's market and strong haggling expected. However, it should also be noted that once you have found a driver it is very hard to get rid of him!
Carol O'Gorman & Donal Kane (October 98)

Sulawesi: I stayed in Rantepao, Tanatoraja, for a fortnight and had a great time. I recommend that you take a trip out to Sadan to check out the local women's weaving. If you're interested in buying some, don't spend all you money at the first place; walk along the full length of "shops" and see what is being offered first, then make your choice.
Tamara Hewett, Australia (Oct 98)

New ways of relieving you from your money at Gunung Batur in Bali: We climbed the mountain from the north-east, arriving by car. When we turned left at the sign 1.7km outside Toya Bungkah we were stopped by several men who wanted to be our guides. After telling them that we didn't want a guide, they told us that this is a private road and therefore we could not bring a car in without paying. For the same reason they said we had to pay for walking on the road and that we weren't allowed to climb the mountain without a guide. After paying 25,000rp we were allowed to drive and climb alone. On our way back we checked with the tourist office. They stated that although it is unusual to pay for driving, it is a private road so you probably should pay, but you should not have to pay for walking. Using a guide is not mandatory. So now we have found out what is right and what is wrong.

The internet cafΘ in Kuta, Nayanana, has one line for each user. They let me connect my PC directly and call Sanur at the same rate they charge for normal internet use. Their address is: Kuta Centre, E1 22.
Anders Madsen, Denmark (Oct 98)

Flores: make sure you don't do what we did and not take enough money. We way underestimated our spending (and did not take into account all the amazing ikat available to buy). Just because you have heaps of notes doesn't mean you have heaps of money. There are no cash advances on Flores, no ATMs and except at BNI, the exchange rate for travellers cheques is crap (less than half that of Bali).
Glen Ewers & Jessica Kerstjens (Sep 98)

Don't change your money at the airport in Indonesian countries. I recently visited Bali and changed all my money at the airport only to receive half the amount of rupiah I could have received if I changed my money at a money changer in the city.
Karin Stahel, New Zealand (Sep 98)

Clean, crisp US$100 notes get you the best rates; there are lower rates for US$ travellers cheques, and also lower rates for US$50 notes. Shop around for the best rate. Places vary from door to door and the airport is obviously not the place to change money. Kuta, Bali, had the best rate I could find. When the US$ was getting up to 13,000 rp in Bali, in places like Lombok, Sumbawa and smaller islands, it was only getting 6500 rp at times, so change money in Bali before you go to the more remote places. Always check your money - sounds simple, but getting the correct amount is the exception, not the rule in Indo, at least in my experience. Change your money on a Tuesday or a Wednesday if possible; for some reason the rate is more favourable earlier in the week; something to do with the IMF and money markets I'm told, but it works. Lastly, as a safety precaution, some people recommend always carrying US$50 or US$100 on you at all times.

If you surf, you can only take three or fewer surfboards into Indonesia without incurring 'duties' at the airport. This is to prevent guys from bringing boards over and selling them to fund their trip and also to protect the Indo surf industry. Bring four or more boards ant they'll hit you with a tax of 90% of the value of the boards (no joke). I spoke to quite a few guys that had to sweet talk their way out of this ludicrous tax at the airport.
Buy your booties at home - there were none above size 5 of below size 11 in Kuta when I was there in August, and the second hand sellers want too much for what you get. When you take small boats or outriggers out to the reefs, pay one way in each direction only; if you pay your return price straight away you may well be waiting out in the sun a while longer than what you agreed with the boat driver. Don't wear green boardshorts. Just don't.

Do your shopping early in the day - it's good luck to make an early sale for an Indonesian seller, and they'll often sell to you far cheaper (even at a loss sometimes if they're having a bad day) if you're the first buyer of the day.

Things that I would take with me next time:
ear drops (especially if you surf or dive)
thermometer
a few clothes pegs
more sunscreen
more insect repellent
foam rubber mattress (cool for lying on on ferries)
a sheet to sleep under/on
pocket Indonesian phrase book
goggles and snorkel (almost all the surf breaks have amazing coral bottoms, with beautiful fish)
sting and bite lotion
cheap ball-point pens (give them to school teachers - the kids need them at the schools)
a few good books (there are book shops but half the books aren't in English and the rest are trashy novels)
Things I would leave at home next time:
sleeping bag
lace up shoes
jeans and long pants
t-shirts (I only wore short-sleeved shirts, unbuttoned due to the heat, for the entire month)
socks
Carl Warburg, South Africa (Sep 98)

I studied Indonesian in Yogyakarta for 11 weeks at Wisma Bahasa (Jalan Rajawali gang Nuri 4-6, Demangan Baru, Yogyakarta 55281; Phone/fax: (62) (274) 588 409; email: wisba@yogya.wasantara.net.id). Many diplomats send their staff here and it's also the place for Australian Volunteers Abroad and American VSOs. There are many courses you can do and tuition can be one on one or one teacher with two or three students. I paid 40,000 rp per hour and they have homestays where you can stay from US$50 a week with full board and laundry but they only calculate the US dollar to 6000 rp. Even a one week crash course would be extremely beneficial for travellers.
Markus Ogilvie, Indonesia (no date)

I have recently returned from Indonesia and found that the International Departure Tax went up on 1 August 1998 to 50,000 rp.
Karen Goddard, Australia (Aug 98)

We recently travelled to Bali where we had reasonably good luck getting cash at ATMs. But we encountered a problem with changing cash (US$). It seems the exchange rate has more to do with denominations rather than the current market rate. For example, our $20 bills were worth maybe Rp3000/dollar, our $50 bills maybe Rp6000/dollar and our $100 bills Rp10,000/dollar. Had we known this beforehand, we obviously would have come prepared with only $100 bills.
Michael Condran - USA (Jul 98)

Exchange rates in Indonesia are extremely variable right now due to the volatility of the rupiah. For anyone visiting Irian Jaya, I would advise either getting all cash elsewhere or maybe getting a credit card advance in Jayapura. While the official exchange rate is 14,500 right now, Jayapura is only giving around 8000, and Wamena only 4000 rupiah to the US$! Ujung Pandang rates are a reasonable 13,000+. Thankfully, I managed to squeak by during my stay in Wamena with the cash I had brought with me, but just barely.
Ron Miller - Canada (Jul 98)

Jendela Indonesia: this is an absolutely excellent site with links to everything you would want to know about Indonesia including lots of travel sites and other useful things like an interactive weather site and lots of newspapers and magazines. It also has a guest book which is visited by lots of Indonesian students - a good place to leave requests for info. The address for Jendela Indonesia is: http://www.iit.edu/~indonesia/jendela/ Catherine - The Thorn Tree (Jul 98)

Bali: on leaving, I was dismayed to find my bags X-rayed firstly on entering the airport, then on entering the departure lounge and for a third time before boarding the plane. I was able to walk my films around some of the machines but not all of them. The resulting developed pictures had a greyish tinge.
Paul Holt - Australia (Jun 98)

I've just come back from Gili Air which, due to the current economic crisis, is completely deserted with only two or three people getting off the shuttle boat each day. This makes it lovely and peaceful at the moment; the only people trying to sell you things are the kids on the beach with their pineapples. There is also plenty of accommodation available. The only problem is that it is extremely difficult to get across by public boat as the locals are all waiting for the tourists to get bored of waiting and charter one, whereupon they all jump on for a free ride. The best way to get there is either on the early morning public boat at 1500rp or pay more (5500rp) and get the shuttle boat at 10.30am or 4.30pm.
Chris King - UK (Jun 98)

Everyone who has seen the crater lakes (Keli Mutu on Flores) raves about them. Be aware, though, that a few people never did see them because the cloud cover just never lifted (happens about one day in ten). Often you have to stand around on the peak and wait an hour, or even several hours, for the clouds to go away. But everyone says it's worth it, even the guy who had to wait five hours and missed his bus and had to stay an extra day in the mountains. Apparently it's a really spectacular view, even better than the photographs.
Doug Muir - USA (Apr 98)

In Wamena, there are two banks that change money. Both of them had horrible exchange rates. The exchange rate was 50% under the exchange rate in Jayapura. And Jayapura have already a 20-25% lower exchange rate than Jakarta. Tourists should change enough money in Jakarta or Jayapura before going to Wamena.
Before tourists decide on a (tourist) guide, it's a good idea to go to the police headquarters and ask for the Tourist Police - they have a black list of bad guides. This service is also available at the airport police office branch.
Stefan di Buciari (Mar 98)

The Sejahtera Bank Umum in Parapat is closed. This makes it especially important to change money before you get to Parapat. We were there during the rupiah crisis (Feb - Mar 98) and many touts offered rupiah for dollars but at 7000:1 when we'd just gotten 8600 in Medan.
Lynn & Michele Patterson - USA (Mar 98)

Timor, Ambon, Ternate, Banda: we did find that the exchange rate in Timor and, especially Maluku, was much lower than the official rate. There were no money changers and only a few banks were interested in our Amex US$ travellers cheques. Next time I'll get cash advances on my visa card - presumably these will be converted at the official rate, or close to it.
Greg Dare (Mar 98)

Please note that charges by hotels in Bali for calling mobile phones can range from 20000 to 50000 Rp per minute, whereas from the local 'Wantel' office, 500 Rp.
Simon Carr-Smith - Indonesia (Feb 98)

Do not recommend for people to use travellers' checks in South-East Asia. Especially in Indonesia where the economy is so weak, they not only love Australian money, they give you much LESS for travellers' checks. When trying to pay for accommodation the owner refused our travellers checks, saying she only wanted cash.
Lynn Garrett (Jan 98)

Email is getting popular in Indonesia, and the main post offices in large cities double as 'webcafes'. This is called 'warposnet' (Warun Kantor Pos Internet), provided by Wasantara. Some web cafes, all located in or near the main post office in that city:
Malang; Bandung; Yogya; Semarang; Jakarta (this one is the worst of all: not enough terminals to cope with demand and very cramped).
Also Ubud, Bali has two privately run webcafes: one in Jalan Raya, and 'Rodanet' in Jalan Bisma. Some business class hotels offer internet services, but prices are high.
Marcel Kroes - Netherlands (Jan 98)

Travel between Papua New Guinea and Irian Jaya: although the road between Vanimo and Jayapura is complete, it is still not open to foreigners. This includes non-Irian Indonesians.
There are no flights any more between Vanimo and Sentani - the only route is by jet boat. The journey takes three hours in either direction. The boat is the MV Narimo Express although the ticket will probably say MV Libby II. The cost is around US$40 single, US$70 return, plus an agent's fee of around US$2.
Melvyn Maltz (Apr 99)

There are no flights from Maumere to Sulawesi. Maumere has severely limited most of its old flights so now only a few remain. You can still fly to and from Denpasar and from Ujung Pandang to Maumere.
The Pelni from Maumere to Ujung Pandang only goes once every two weeks on a Friday night. We are on a limited time frame and after coming all the way over to Flores it doesnÆt look like we can wait for the Pelni! We checked the other smaller port just out of town but the ships are all pretty small and itÆs a bit of a risk as apparently the sea between Flores and Sulawesi can get pretty rough.
The Pelni ships no longer run from Ujung Pandang to Bali or Lombok. Cutbacks and all that crap have meant that they only run to Jakarta and Surabaya. However, a flight from Ujung Pandang to Denpasar only costs 555,000 rupiah, so itÆs not so bad.
Nick Thompson, UK (Mar 99)

Pulau Selayer, Sulawesi: when arriving at Pamatata harbour there are no bemos waiting to whisk you off to Benteng. The place is as hot as hell and you will frizzle hanging around waiting for a miracle on wheels. As far as I could ascertain there are five possible options to get you to the civilisation of Benteng once landing at Pamatata.
1. When hanging around Bira harbour waiting for the ferry ask the truck drivers and jeepers who might be delighted to take you under their wing to Benteng. Remember to offer payment.
2. Early on in the voyage sneak into æKelas 1Æ. Someone will inevitably make your acquaintance. Use this as an opportunity to ask around for a ride into Benteng. Or just go in and start asking outright.
3. Try to locate the æUP - SelayerÆ bus drivers while on board, or better still, at Bira harbour and ask if there are any free seats/standing room. If youÆre lucky youÆll get something sorted.
4. If youÆre adventurous like me, disembark quickly and start walking up the incline in time for the trucks, buses and jeeps to start rolling off, and try flagging them down. The sight of a poor stranded foreigner should be enough to stop someone. If youÆre really lucky like I was, youÆll get a lift directly to the Berlian Hotel in Benteng in an air-con jeep driven by two Telecom engineers!
5. The only other option is to attempt to charter a bemo right at the top of the rise where a few unattended bemos sit and sizzle in the heat. Walking is out of the question as the journey to Benteng by jeep is an hour.
None of the above options is easy. Getting to Selayer is easy. Getting out of Pamatata is not. DonÆt get stuck there - there is nothing but a couple of huts, a few fishing boats and very little shade.
Steve Mabey, Netherlands (no date)

Air travel: as you probably already know, the economic crisis has played havoc with the small internal airlines. Bouraq and Sempati have gone bust and Merpati is even more unreliable than ever. Travel between islands has therefore become very difficult unless one flies Garuda and accepts that all journeys are via Jakarta, or possibly Denpasar, which is, of course, very expensive as well as slow.

Lombok, Getting There & Away: a new catamaran ferry service started in January, the Kencana Express from Lembar to Padangbai. It costs much more than the old ferry and is far more comfortable, but is only about 15 minutes quicker! We paid 65,000 rp each including a lunch box and a very comfortable connecting coach to Denpasar or Kuta. Padangbai is 50,000 rp. The Mabua express to Benoa is much better but much more costly. $25 diamond and $20 for emerald class. No land arrangements anymore.

Big lesson: never cut it fine getting back to catch a pre-arranged international flight or other important engagement. What should have been a one hour flight to Mataram and another couple of hours on to Denpasar took us nearly two days with an overnight stop.
Oliver & Sue Gillie (Feb 99)

The best new bus company is Simpatik. The buses are new, modern and air-conditioned and the routes are more direct (though not as extensive). Perama buses are run-down and tend to take long routes. I've heard Nomad is good but I didn't try it. It's worth asking about other companies when your schedule doesn't fit the times.
Eveline Wu (Feb 99)

The national airlines of Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Brunei have launched an air pass targeted at long haul travellers from the US and Europe. All you have to do is fly to any of the above countries on the airlines mentioned above and you can buy a ticket to any other destination within the six countries for only US$90. You need to buy at least three tickets however.
Magdelene Lim (Feb 99)

The island of Flores is my favourite destination with Labuanbajo standing out as the best value for money although it is difficult to get there now from Kupang with the cancellation of Merpati flights. Probably the best way to travel there is to catch the ferry or Pelni boat from Kupang and then travel overland for two days through Bajawa and Ruteng from Ende.
Dennis Billingham, Australia (Jan 99)

Sumatra: when taking public transport in Sumatra, look out for the yellow licence plates on the vehicles. This means that the vehicle is licensed by the government to pick up passengers along a predetermined route. These operators pay for the right to operate on the roads and can be held accountable for damages in the event of an accident. Black-plate vehicles are privately owned and often are not offically sanctioned by the government. They do not pay for a licence and cannot be held accountable for damages. Most black-plate vehicles operate along popular tourist routes and most tourist minivans have no licence. The licensed operators have informed me that it constitutes unfair competition for their livelihood and most of the time tourists are the biggest culprits due to ignorance.

Tips from the licensed operators:
1. Try to catch buses from the terminals;
2. Always ascertain the fare from the licensed operator at the terminal if you can;
3. Contrary to myths, there is no extra charge for baggage (just look at the amount of goods the locals bring on the bus);
4. Stand up for the correct price, and report price discrimination to the operator at the end of the journey; and
5. In the event of any problems, take note of the licence plates of the bus.
Raymond Ang, Singapore (Jan 99)

Irian Jaya: there is no longer a flight from Vanimo in PNG to Jayapura, but there is a boat that goes twice a week if there are enough passengers. It's the Narimo Express, costs K100 round-trip, plus K30 departure tax, and info and tickets are available via the Vanimo Beach Hotel (also called the Narimo Hotel). In Jayapura, the agent is Jaap van der Werf; tel: (967) 531 449; Jalan Raya Abepura 32, Entrop Kelapa 11; PO Box 1719, Jayapura. He speaks excellent English and Indonesian, and is quite helpful. You turn your passport over to him upon departure and he straightens everything out. On the PNG side, you give your passport to the Indonesian embassy in Vanimo along with a visa application, K20, and two photos. The boat staff pick it up and have it waiting the morning of departure. In Jayapura, you have to pay a Rp10,000 entry fee and another Rp10,000 exit fee.
Aaron & Vanessa Petty, Papua New Guinea (Dec 98)

The night buses from Java to Bali will take another hour or so, due to the police roadblocks at Banyuwangi, the ferry terminal.
Alex Riley, Indonesia (Dec 98)

The Perama shuttle buses no longer drop off in the centre of town like all the other companies; they drop you at their office down in Padangtegal, from which it is quite a hike up the hill into Ubud.
Wendy Silva, UK (Dec 98)

Pelni Ships: tickets are available from travel agents, but they are slightly cheaper at the Pelni offices. It is wise to get a cabin: 1st & 2nd class are available on smaller ships; 1st-4th class on larger ships. It is not expensive and well worth it for the comfort and security for you luggage. Bedding and meals are provided.

Tanatoraja, Sulawesi: it is definitely worth paying a little extra for an air-conditioned bus to Rantepao as it is a long trip: six hours from Pare Pare; nine hours from Ujung Pandang.
Susanne Rose, Australia (Dec 98)

You cannot take your rental car from Bali to Java on the Gilimanuk ferry, unless you have already hired a driver or you have specific papers from the car company, which we were unable to obtain.
Lauren Bauer, USA (Dec 98)

The road from Kefamenanu to Pantemakassar makes a very pleasant trip through some interesting and colourful villages. Expect to see more activity in the late afternoon. There was no check point. Returning to Kefamenanu in the late afternoon involved getting a microlet to Torno, a junction just outside Pantemakassar, then another to Kefamenanu.

Ferries no longer stop at Komodo.
Dennis Collins, Australia (Dec 98)

In addition to the road from Tentena to Bada Valley (unreliable and expensive transport), and from Palu to Gimpu, there are also frequent minibuses from both Palu and Poso to Wuasa in the Napu Valley, and from there occasional jeeps to Besoa Valley (Doda).
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)

Travellers flying from Manado, Sulawesi to Davao, Mindanao with Bouraq should check the validity of the flight ticket if it is a return; their return flights are valid for one month only, not three, which they sometimes tell you when booking. The only way to get a longer period of validity is to buy two singles, which is more expensive.
Adam Stott, UK (Dec 98)

The Labuanbajo-Komodo ferry service only runs on Sundays and Thursdays. It goes to Sape every day but does not stop at Komodo. If you need to get back before the next public ferry, you will have to charter a fishing boat or take an expensive tour package from Labuanbajo.
Harnam Sudan, UK (Dec 98)

Going from Batam to Pekanbaru by boat is possible, but make sure that you get what you asked for when you buy your ticket: it should only have a picture of a boat if you want to go all the way by boat; if your ticket has a picture of both a boat and a bus, you will be kicked off in a small village called Tanjung Buton and then you are in for one hell of a drive to Pekanbaru.
Ture Alsvik, Denmark (Nov 98)

Sulawesi: the Pendolo-Tentena boat is not regular. In fact, it had just recommenced service shortly before our arrival, but it only ran when demand was sufficient. It is possible to charter other boats, although these "charters" often end up taking various locals; we suggest that travellers pay the public boat price of 5,000rp each. The trip is a very pleasant two hours.

There is an overnight bus going from Palu to Ampana. The Palu-Poso stretch is undergoing a combination of landslides and road works; expect delays and disasters.
Andrew Cossen & Mark Nussbaum, Australia (Nov 98)

Regarding the ferry from Medan to Malaysia: allow for delays as there is a rather inefficient process of lining up several different times for a variety of stamps and checks which take place one at a time. We were delayed by three hours which meant arriving in Penang at 11pm.
Martin & Christina Semler, Canada (Oct 98)

Merpati gives 25% student discounts on flights. You just need to give them some photocopies of your ISIC card.
Glen Ewers & Jessica Kerstjens (Sep 98)

SMAC Airlines no longer operates out of Pekanbaru, and their office has closed down.
Henry Brownrigg, UK (Sep 98)

For those interested in motorbikes, there's a place at the end of Jl Legian in Seminyak (Bali), close to Warung Tapas, which rents old British bikes from the 1950s (Norton, BSA, Matchless, etc). Go there and reserve some days in advance because they don't have many bikes.
Michele & Tiziana Bindi, Italy (Sep 98)

Pelni no longer operates it's Tilongkabila ship from Manado to Davao city. Try to take a cargo ship. A copy of the Pelni timetable published in January 1998 can be found at:
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/rotsaert/pelstart.html
Johan, The Thorn Tree (Aug 98)

The bus to Borobudur can no longer be caught at the bus stop on Jalan Magelang. It now follows a different route out of the city, so you have to go the main bus station and catch it there.
John & Margaret Northcote - Canada (Jul 98)

Do not rely too heavily on domestic air travel to get around at the moment. The economic crisis has caused many flights to be cancelled. I was almost stranded in Wamena when Meripati quit flying for an undetermined amount of time for unknown reasons. I managed to get a seat on a cargo plane, but otherwise could have been in for an expensive stay with no way out and exchange rates at only 4000.
Ron Miller - Canada (Jul 98)

You can expect chaotic scenes when trying to buy a ticket at the Pelni Shipping Office. It is far better to pay a little extra for the services of a travel agent to arrange the tickets. For reasons best known to themselves, Pelni Kupang will only sell economy class tickets and any attempt to upgrade to 1st or 2nd class must by negotiated on board the ship. For those hardy souls who prefer economy class travel, I would suggest they take some food along as even the locals say the food supplied is inedible. You can also forget the idea of buying a beer on board as the ship is dry - a situation reinforced by the call to prayers which is broadcast throughout the ship at 0430 hours each morning.
Dennis Billingham - Australia (Jul 98)

Flores island: I never got to the crater lakes, although we really, really wanted to go. The problem is that Merpati has drastically cut its flights to and around Flores. I'm not sure why, but some people say it's because the currency crisis has reduced their access to spare parts and forced them to cut the number of planes in the air. Merpati is still flying, and there don't seem to have been any crashes lately, but they have sharply cut service to outlying and marginal areas, which Flores definitely is. As a result, in March and April there was not a single inter-Flores flight still actually flying. So, if you wanted to fly from one end of the island to the other, you had to fly back to Bima (on Sumbawa) or even all the way to Denpasar (Bali) or Kupang (Timor). To make matters worse, flights are not particularly reliable, and are often late or cancelled altogether.

What this means is that there are now two Floreses for the traveller: the east end, which has the famous crater lakes and lots of nice hiking and interesting villages and also the island's one large town; and the west end, with great beaches and snorkelling and scuba diving, and also quick access to Komodo and the other offshore islands. There aren't any flights between east and west now, so to get from one to the other means either a grim 17 hour bus ride over some fairly unpleasant roads, or a couple of days on a Pelni boat (Pelni is the national passenger boat service).
Doug Muir - USA (Apr 98)

Getting across Lombok and Sumbawa without taking the tourist bus directly from Mataram to Sape proved to be very difficult. We wanted to do it in stages and visit a couple of places on the way so did not take the tourist bus. The journey was possible but very time consuming and not much cheaper than the tourist bus as we had to take about seven separate and very crowded small public buses to get across.
Lennie Beattie - Australia (Apr 98)

Sulawesi: the flight from Rantepao to Ujung Pandang is more often cancelled than going and nobody knows if it is coming or not until the moment of departure.
Marinus Bergsma - Netherlands (Mar 98)

Yogyakarta town buses: in the northern part where I live and work, the Pemuda coop has lots of new routes, and they do not all start from the Umbulharjo terminal. Some are based at the Jombor terminal off Jl Magelang. The Tourist Office on Malioboro is nearly useless for bus information. They issue a thick town guide in Indonesian and will show you individual bus route maps, but both of these are incomplete: they cover only the first 17 routes and are not up to date with changes to those routes. There is no general bus map. Another vital piece of information is that the bus services peter out around 6pm. The last services can have non-standard routes. The number 7 goes on longer than most, and several services close to the centre of town go on still later.
Richard Pickvance (Feb 98)

Make sure you have Rupee if your flight stops within the country on the way to your final destination. You will have to pay airport tax before taking off; they will take US$ but charge you twice as much!
Phil Tucker (Feb 98)

There's a really useful, timesaving and affordable flight from Tambolaka to Bima on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings for only 58,200Rp. Great for those who don't need/want to head back to Flores. It flies on to Mataram (182,300Rp) and Denpasar (226,300Rp) which means it's not cancelled too often.
Brian Cogswell - USA (Feb 98)

Yogya has two railway stations instead of only one, and some trains only call at the second station (Lepuyangan) without stopping at the main station. People who do not know this will not recognize this second station as a Yogya station, and they will not know that they have to get off here. This happened to me, causing a nightly two hour delay, and I was lucky to be able to get off at Kutoarko and organize a seat on the Bima passing through in the opposite direction.
Marcel Kroes - Netherlands (Jan 98)

It is essential that you have an onward or return ticket when you want to go to the Philippines from Sulawesi. If you don't have one you will be refused at the border and sent back, with a huge fine to pay! It is possible to buy an onward ticket (from Manila) in Manado at Wina Mulia, Jalan Sarapung 5, but of course you won't get the best price. We bought a Manado-Davao ticket (Bouraq) for US$40 and a Manila-Bangkok ticket (Philippine Airlines) for US$230. It's all a rather complicated process but it works out in the end.
Joris Postema & Kim den Boer - Netherlands (Jan 98)

All ferries to Bintan Island, Indonesia now leave from the new terminal at Tanah Merah in Singapore.
Ben Peacock - Japan (Dec 97)

Gambir has no economy departures to Bogor anymore (although some stop at Gambir when coming from Bogor). Go instead from Gondangdia (nearer Jalan Jaksa anyway). Economy is now 1,000Rp, business 2,500Rp. Many of the economy trains on this route now have closing doors and lots of plastic seating.
John Pilgrim - UK (Nov 97)

Jakarta - to/from the airport: there is absolutely no need to take an expensive taxi into Jakarta. From Terminal D (non-Garuda international arrivals), stay upstairs (taxi touts aren't allowed there). Proceed to Gate 3 (ask at the information counters if you're lost), and then go downstairs where the bus to Gambir station leaves. A taxi costs around Rp28,000; the bus is Rp4,000.
Mike Wallace - Scotland (Nov 97)

Ferries in Port Kelang (Kuala Lumpur's port) no longer run to Belawan. Now the ferry runs daily between Port Kelang and Tanjungbalai (roughly 100 - 150km south of Medan). The problem with this crossing is that you require a visa before departing which takes three days in the Indonesian Embassy. On the bright side, there is now a daily boat crossing between Melaka and Dumai. It departs Melaka at 10am daily, although you are required to book in with the ferry office at the port by 8am. This crossing no longer requires a visa and costs 150 Malaysian Ringgit return and 80 one-way. The journey should take four hours and on arrival in Indonesia, there is a connecting bus to Padang stopping at all major towns along the way. This bus leaves Dumai bus station at 4pm.
T Clark - UK (Sep 97)

Nunukan: make sure you don't arrive after 2pm on a Saturday. There won't be any boats to Tawau (Malaysia) until Monday. There are longboats from Labuhan Lamijong but they are only for Indonesians and Malaysians. Two speedboats a day go to Tawau. They leave when they want to around 1pm. They cost the same but the smallest one is faster. Be at the immigration by the port at 12 midday. Buy your ticket in advance from KM Sangalaki Express close to losmen Nunukan (Rp16000 or RM25 from Malaysia). There are many other agencies on the road between the city square and the docks, but they sell tickets for the slower boats. You can also take a speedboat from Tarakan via Nunukan. It leaves at 8.30am and you go through immigration in Nunukan. Moneychangers hang around in the departure lounge. Make sure that you have Rp1500 left for the harbour tax which is collected just before you board the boat.
Hanne Finholt - Norway (no date)

Back home two days later I checked on the Internet for rabies sites, and it turns out that while Bali is rabies-free, Lombok is a high risk area. In addition, monkeys are notorious for being carriers of the disease. Shit... so I then went through the worst eight hours of my life, arranging vaccines and HRIG (Human Rabies Immuno Globin) to be couriered across London for my doctor to inject. These vaccines are supposed to be given on the day of the bite but by this time I was four days late so I am now at risk of developing the disease (which is almost always fatal). So all and all not a pleasant end to an otherwise great holiday.

So the lessons are: if you must feed the monkeys, wear jeans and long sleeves and don't turn your back on them; if you get bitten, seek medical attention immediately; if HRIG is not available on Lombok, go to Bali or even Singapore immediately; do not trust local medical advice - Lombok is definitely considered a rabies high risk area. Otherwise enjoy Lombok, itÆs a beautiful place.
Peter Nixon, The Thorn Tree (Apr 99)

Use of credit/debit cards in Indonesia: I was very careful with the use of my cards. They were never stolen or misplaced and not usually out of my sight. However, when my bank statements finally caught up with me, I found to my horror that some ú2000 (or the equivalent in rupiah) had been spent without my knowledge and two of these transactions were over the counter bank withdrawals (which require a passport as proof of identity). I was led to believe that operators in Indonesia only need a name and card number and can create a duplicate card for fraudulent use. It is with thanks to Lloyds Bank Card Services that most of the money has now been refunded to my account. Be careful with your cards! And have someone check your statements regularly.
Sue Masters, UK (Mar 99)

Java: One of our group contracted Dengue fever and was hospitalised for over a week. There were reports in the papers of it becoming extremely common all over Java, especially in March-April. It is just another reason to warn people to use their "Rid" (tropical strength insect repellent) and wear long pants.
My overall observation of Yogyakarta is that it still appeared to be an exceptionally safe place to visit by present Indonesian standards.
Andrew Riseley, Australia (Mar 99)

In Bukit Lawang I would strongly urge lone female travellers to stay towards the village end of the place as opposed to the Jungle Inn end. I was there in August and made the mistake of staying at QueenÆs Resort. There were virtually no tourists at this end of town and I experienced great problems with a stalker - this made me so nervous I couldnÆt sleep for two nights.
Rachel Andrews, UK (Feb 99)

Around noon on New Year's Eve 1998, an Australian family was ambushed by knife-wielding bandits wearing balaclavas at Jeruk Manis waterfall near the south-west entrance to Mt Rinjani National Park about six km from the tourist village of Tetebatu, Lombok. The picturesque waterfall is situated in a narrow canyon which offers cover for thieves and no escape for victims. A regular armed robbery scam against unsuspecting tourists operates openly in the region.
Karen Crawford, Graham Aubourg & Kate Aubourg, Australia (Jan 99)

Rip offs on buses are also a problem on the Yogya-Bali overnighters. I had my camera chained through the zips to the seat in front and someone still managed to bust the zips - luckily I woke up.
In Sumatra we found the people incredible friendly and anxious to prove they are not all looters. Having said that, watch out for the gigolos and touts of Tuk Tuk at Lake Toba, they are getting more extreme.
In Medan women should watch out for young lads on motorcycles snatching bags off your shoulder.
Sumatra: I endorse what one traveller has said about eye and ear infections. At Iboih beach all the water comes from a well, which is contaminated by sewage - this appears to be the source of the problem. It is worth knowing that at Pulau We (and many other places in Indonesia) it is possible to by 19 litre bottles of aqua - the ones used on water dispensers in offices.
Paul Bigland & Lynn O'Donoghue - UK (Feb 99)

Bali warning: I saw a girl walking along the street get her bag snatched by a guy speeding past on a motorcycle. She was pulled onto the busy road. Always hold your bag tightly to the side that's not next to the road. Also watch out for pickpockets and watch stealers outside Bali bars and clubs who prey on drunk, unaware tourists.
Hannah Boehm - Australia (Feb 99)

I arrived in Sumba just after November 5th, what Indonesians now call 'Kamis berdarah' (Bloody Thursday). I arrived there some days later. I found that 60 people were killed at the bottom of the Tarung village in Waikabubak. Many villages have been burned around the town. So the situation in the west is very bad now, as this is not a traditional tribal war, but a political war. The situation is strained. Many rumours are spread. During one week every shop and market was closed in Waikabubak. Now its a living city but it can change in five minutes because inhabitants are afraid of another attack. Tourists can go there, its safe. But its not a good idea to spend a night in the villages. Its impossible to sleep because the people are defending their villages all night. Its not so safe to travel alone in Weyewa area, as all the people who have been killed are Weyewa.
Moreover the economic situation in Sumba is very bad now.
Philippe Heurtault - France (Jan 99)

Monkeys on Lombok: just a warning for anyone who is going to Lombok for a holiday - do not feed the monkeys in the monkey forest near Sengiggi. One took a dislike to me and took a bite from my leg (I ended up in hospital for a week - it was not a fun experience, and I now have a huge scar). Lombok is a great destination - the people are very friendly, but not the monkeys! We were with some locals who thought that feeding the monkeys was an okay thing to do... but give them a miss.
Andrew, The Thorn Tree (Jan 99)

A warning for all those arriving at Jakarta's Sukarno-Hatta airport or using taxis elsewhere in Jakarta. Taxis have become a favourite place for muggings in Jakarta. Typically, the driver will 'break down' at a pre-determined place and his accomplices will storm the taxi and mug/rape/murder the passenger. Bluebird taxis (along with a few subsidiary firms like Gamya) are the best and safest in Jakarta and are run very strictly.
GT, Thorn Tree (Dec 98)

Several Singaporeans returning from the resort island of Bintan in Riau have recently died of malaria. Anti-malaria drugs are highly recommended.
Thng Hui Hong (Dec 98)

I live in Indonesia and I hear of a rapidly increasing number of bad experiences in taxis in Jakarta, even for locals. Apart from the usual problems of fares and taxi meters, robbery is now becoming more frequent. If arriving at the airport in Jakarta, from arrivals, go to the Silver Bird taxi stand who have high quality cars, with reliable drivers and with meters which are now the same price as the disreputable ones outside. Expect 35,000 IDR plus tip to the city centre. In Jakarta, use Bluebird taxis and avoid others.
John Reed, Indonesia (Dec 98)

I was just in Tumpang in East Java, where there were mobs of implement wielding people lining the roads. They mean foreigners no harm; just be careful and don't do anything stupid. Remember to smile - always the key in Javanese society - bring identification, and don't dress all in black.
Alex Riley, Indonesia (Dec 98)

There is a high incidence of theft on Rinjani mountain.
Dennis Collins, Australia (Dec 98)

There is a scam operating on the long haul bus rides from Java to Denpasar. My friend and I caught a luxury overnight bus thinking it was safe. In the early evening, one of the passengers said it would be more comfortable for us to separate and have a seat each in order to sleep better. I thought he was just being kind, but the next morning we woke up only to find that all of our money and travellers' cheques had been stolen; someone had gone through our bags whilst we were asleep. Thus, the rule is: don't separate on buses and take it in turn to keep watch.
David Coleman (Dec 98)

Be careful when travelling on public buses in Flores: I had two thefts from my backpack on the roof of a local bus en route to Ende from Maumere and Moni.
Harnam Sudan, UK (Dec 98)

Beware of touts at the bus station in Probolinggo. Two very pleasant and friendly men pretended to help us organise our bus tickets and escorted us hurriedy on to the bus, assuring us that tickets were cheaper if purchased directly on the vehicle and not at the station. Once on the bus they quickly took control and ordered our tickets from the ticket seller on board. They received the tickets from the seller and then demanded a very inflated price (about triple the regular fare we later found out) from us. Of course, after the exchange was complete, they hopped off, presumably to find their next victims.
Martin & Christina Semler, Canada (Oct 98)

In Sumatra, we saw boys going through the dustbin of an ATM machine looking for receipts (because account numbers are printed on them). So keep the receipt, or burn it - don't throw it in the dustbin near the money machine at the bank.
Marlies Havik (Sep 98)

I have been backwards and forwards to Indonesia for the past two and a half years. Much of my time has been spent on the Gili Islands, off the coast of Lombok. During my time, I have encountered a rise in violent episodes, particularly between the young guys and female tourists. I myself have been subjected to being kicked quite severely and slapped. During my last trip, I met several travellers who had experienced similar problems, particularly on Gili Air and Gili Trawangan. For the most part, the situations arise over money and unfortunately, such incidents appear to be on the increase.
Julie Mayhew, UK (Aug 98)

For anyone thinking of heading to the northern coast of Bali in the months of July and August, be careful in the water off the coast of Permuteran. July and August tend to bring strong coastal winds which blow literally thousands of Portuguese man-o-war towards the coast and on to the beach. These are incredibly poisonous and even if you remain alert in the water, the risk of getting stung is still high as the tentacles trail up to two metres from the floating sail. They are about 5 to 8 cm in length and clear in colour with a blueish-purple hue.

The Lonely Planet mentions not to stop for any reason if someone flags you down in Bali. I heard this story at least five times when I was there in July 1998. It seems to be particularly common in the Gunung Batur, north coast area. It goes something like this: you get flagged down by someone telling you that your rear passenger side wheel is loose (most jeeps' steering feels pretty dodgy so this is plausible!) While your friend kindly tightens the nuts, his pal is around the other side clamping the fuel line. You get back in and can't understand why all of a sudden the car won't start. He'll offer to fix this too. Of course, he'll do a grand job of fixing it and it will cost you normally around $30. Don't be fooled. If you do stop, make sure you know where the fuel line is to check for the clamp (under the wheel arch, driver's side, rear).
Jim Trotter (Aug 98)

Ubud's various dances are good, but note that entrance prices have been rising. People on the street are often selling tickets at the old price and you have to pay the difference at the door (could be two to three times as much as you were led to believe). It never makes for a good scene so it would be worthwhile to check ahead of time. Tourist information would be a good place.
John & Margaret Northcote - Canada (Jul 98)

Be careful in Bali when using debit/credit cards at ATM machines. I was nearly ripped off for 1,500,000 rupiah by Bankbali ATMs. It seems the bank's computers in Jakarta set some ATMs to refuse you your requested amount, and then debit your account anyway. It was lucky I kept all of my receipts from the machines so that I was able to claim back my losses from the reluctant bank. The moral to this story is to keep those receipts!
Terry White (Jul 98)

I recently lost my boyfriend (aged 26). He drowned right in front of our resort hotel Jayakarta, Legian, Bali. He was the fourth person to drown in five days. He was a surfer, body builder and an excellent swimmer. I want to warn all other travellers about the dangers of the sea in Bali, as there are no warning signs on the beaches.
Maxine Davis - Australia (Jul 98)

Possible dangers in Sibolga, Sumatra: we were very nastily robbed by the crew of one of the Sibolga-Nias boats last September. We subsequently read in a travellers tip book in Berastagi of two other incidents on the Sibolga Boats. My advice, particularly in the current climate, is to fly to Nias or take the Super Jumbo (four hours) which I believe leaves once a week on Saturdays. One should also be wary in Sibolga itself - we met a lone French girl who had just been robbed in the street.
Simon Waters (Jun 98)

Tuktuk, Lake Toba, Sumatra: several of the hotel restaurants were reusing straws, in some cases without even washing them. It might be an idea to break and tie a knot in your straw after use, like I did.
Stuart Anderson - UK (Jun 98)

One word of warning (on climbing Gunung Agung, Bali): look out for the occasional falling rocks. I managed to acquire a large gash in my head, and consider myself quite lucky, since if I hadn't been wearing a thick woolly hat, or if the falling rock hadn't been pumice, and hence relatively light, I think I would have suffered more than a bit of blood and a headache for a day.
Boyd Gilchrist - UK (Feb 98)

I recently returned from a trip to Indonesia, and wanted to warn other travellers going there about taking the boat trips to see Krakatoa. I hired a boat from Cerita, and after reading the guidebook, arranged for life jackets and a radio to be on the boat in case of problems. I payed extra for these items. However, the boat did break down about an hour from shore, and it transpired that not only were there in sufficient life jackets and no radio, but there were not even any lights on board with which we could signal for help. Anchor was eventually laid, and we waited eight hours to be rescued in the middle of the night by a fishing boat. The 'tour operators' had made no attempt to search for us, even though there were speed boats available.
Louise Molodynski (Nov 97)

Caution: travel companies make you pay at the bus station for a fare up to Bromo. They put you on the bus with no ticket then half way up the mountain the driver asks for the fare. Make sure you get a ticket or a receipt for the money you paid.
Darren Scott - New Zealand (Nov 97)

Views of the sunrise at Gunnung Sindoro are incredible, as are the view of Sumbing, the sister peak. If the weather cooperates you can see Slamet, Merapi and Merbabu. You get a great view into the exploding cone of Merapi; at night it looks like the tip of a lit cigarette. To get there, take the minibus from Yogyakarta to Wonosobo, and ask the driver to let you out at Kledung, which is two and half hours from Yogyakarta, and slightly before Wonosobo. From Kledung, it is about 300 metres to the registry post where there are a few places to buy snacks and water. From Kledung it takes 9-10 hours to the summit. No guide is necessary.

Gunnung Kursi: this can be climbed from the rim of Bromo. Basically, all you have to do is circumnavigate the rim to the left. The crater is the most beautiful is Java, according to my humble opinion.
Alex Riley, Indonesia (Dec 98)

I thought I would have to take lots of tours to find ceremonies, temples, villages and cultural life. In fact, Kuta itself was so full of opportunities that I ran out of time to do some grand tours. By taking an interest in the family life of those who owned the place in which we stayed, we were invited to a wedding, a house-warming, two cremations, and a tooth-filling! We tried without success to delay our return home for a second wedding. At these events, we saw dancing that tourists can't buy, heard gamelan that only the wealthiest family could afford, and made many friends.
Cassandra Perry, Australia (Dec 98)

Malenge: most people come here to see monkeys, but this is also the best place to see the babirusa. I saw them twice, and even saw some deer, as well as lots of hornbills.
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)

Labuanbajo (Nusa Tenggara): we fell in love with this sleepy fishing town. Along the dusty road winding along the shore, the woven-walled houses seem to be either dangling their toes in the water or climbing up the steep hill for a better view. And what a view. At sunset the call to prayer resounds through the orange air, with the silhouettes of fishing boats like great insects on a pond, and rock islands that stick out of the silver water like the coils of a sea serpent. We stayed in a hotel up the hill just north of Gardena with fantastic rooms at stupidly cheap prices with amazing views. Others went straight to the 'resort' islands which looked nice, but we think that no one should miss Lab - even for the lure of tropical islands. We could have stayed there for a long time.
Glen Ewers & Jessica Kerstjens (Sep 98)

Museums in Ubud: I went to the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA), the Neka Museum and the Museum Puri Lukisan. All are excellent if you have the interest, but I was particularly impressed with the ARMA, now fully open. It follows much the same pattern as the Neka, setting out the development of Balinese and Indonesian paintings from times past into the present, and does it in very fine buildings with really excellent guides. Perhaps I struck it lucky, but I might well not have gone to the other two had I not been so well tutored at the ARMA.
J R Purey-Cust, New Zealand (Aug 98)

Press Release:
The Government of Indonesia in collaboration with Indonesia's tourist industry has launched a program called Let's Go Indonesia. This includes The Magic Month, a month long promotion in which all tourism industry sectors throughout Indonesia should give special high-value, price-driven offers, and The Best of Indonesia, a long term strategic promotional program of advertising, public relations and travel trade cooperative marketing.
For more information please visit the following web site:
http://www.tourismindonesia.com/news.htm
or contact Indonesia Hotel and Restaurant Association:
Fax: (62) 21 570 6888.
Indonesian Embassy - Canberra, Australia (Jul 98)

Wanariset Orangutan Sanctuary located approximately 40km north of Balikpapan on the highway to Samarinda: established in 1991, it is now under control by the Balikpapan Orangutan Society (BOS) at the Pasir Ridge International School. Its aims are to re-introduce orangutans back to the wild as many are caught to be sold illegally as pets and their skulls, etc, as souvenirs. Furthermore, with the devastating fires and continuing land clearing they are really endangered. Reports are that the Kutai Game Reserve (north of Samarinda) has been virtually destroyed by the bush fires. The centre featured in an article "Orphans of the Fire Storm" by Dennis Schulz in The Bulletin, March 31, 1998. It is almost impossible to visit if you approach local tour operators. For members of the BOS there are tours each Saturday. To become a member it costs US$50 for 12 months. There are other forms of membership (for schools, businesses, etc) including 'adoption' of actual animals which costs thousands of dollars per annum. It is all managed from the International School by a Mr Peter Kosimo - just call into the school. There are also t-shirts, polo shirts, baseball hats, etc for sale at the International School which go towards assisting the sanctuary. Special tours can possibly be arranged providing membership is paid. Unfortunately, we were unable to arrange this because the employees at the sanctuary were out fighting fires, and we were not there for the next Saturday 'tour'. The contact is: BOS, PO Box 319, Balikpapan 76103, Kalimantan Timur, Indonesia. Phone: 62 0542 413069; Fax: 62 0542 410365; Email: bosbpn@indo.net.id
David Grieve - Australia (Apr 98)

A nice place to visit near Semarang (central Java, about 1.5 hours by bus taking the direction of Purwodadi), is Bledug Kuwu. It's a plain with an active mud volcano/geiser. It erupts night and day every minute or so, and is truly a bizarre place with only dry mud and sand (a lot smaller, but similar to the Bromo 'sea of sand'), and a couple of boiling pools in the middle surrounded by the usual ricefields, coconut trees and kampungs. There are viewpoints and set tracks to walk around the area, but it's a lot more fun to have a really close look. Getting sucked knee-deep into the mud is fun after you crawl out. It doesn't feel hot, only warm. Loose shoes may get lost. It IS scary.
Johan Verstraeten (Mar 98)

Kerinci Seblat National Park, Jambi: this is easily accessible for tourists and trekking, and is eager to promote tourism. At present, the National Park is under increasing threat due to land clearance by small, local farmers, illegal logging, and pressure from plantation companies and transmigration programmes. One of the ways such activities can be reduced (at least in some areas), is to create an alternative source of income in the form of tourism. The more visitors, the greater the incentive to protect.
Kate Studd - UK (Nov 97)

I realise that Sungai Penuh is not currently on the tourist route, and visiting the park may be more challenging than the areas like Bukit Lawang that are already set up for tourism, but it is definitely worthwhile with some lovely areas of primary rainforest left to see. It is only four hours from the Trans-Sumatran highway (Bangko), and eight hours from Padang, and there are plenty of hotels to stay at in town.
Kate Studd - UK (Nov 97)