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Introduction We've listed the information here in the same way it is laid out in the book so it's easy to find your way around. Online Upgrades don't replace the guides û they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in August 1998. Be aware that things keep changing û even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate prior to departure. |
Warning
Reports have been coming in regarding a travel insurance scam that involves deliberate food poisonings and hospital kickbacks in Agra and Varanasi: according to the reports, some restaurants are serving poisoned food and then arranging for the victim to be taken to an obliging hospital for which they will receive 50% commission from the travellers health insurance payout. In recent weeks two Irish backpackers have died as a result of this scam.
(Dec 98)
Introduction
India blasted its way into world headlines after its defiant testing of nuclear weapons in May 1998. While world leaders vehemently condemned India, hundreds of thousands of Hindu loyalists celebrated Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee’s controversial decision. Pakistan swiftly responded to India by detonating its own nuclear devices, igniting global concern about a nuclear arms race in south Asia. The recent nuclear tests have heightened tensions between neighbouring India and Pakistan, rivals since partition in 1947. The cause of contention has been the disputed territory of Kashmir, which is claimed by both countries. Analysts fear that the two nations may abandon negotiations and resort to force to resolve their conflict over Kashmir.While India’s bombs were making news around the world, the subcontinent suffered its most devastating heatwave this century.
Facts about the Country
CLIMATE
India has experienced its worst heatwave this century, which has left at least 3000 people dead. Temperatures in New Delhi hovered around 42°C (107°F) in May and June. Orissa and Rajasthan were the worst affected by the heat and experienced daily temperatures around 45°C (113°F).In mid-June an estimated 1000 people were killed when cyclones lashed the Kutch and Saurashtra areas of Gujarat state. Hundreds of people were swept away by tidal waves that pounded the coastline.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
The ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) of Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee is known for its fundamentalist Hindu stance, and many fear that the country’s secular tradition is under threat. Soon after Vajpayee’s government won a vote of confidence in March 1998, the new prime minister was quick to review the country’s defence program, including its nuclear policies. In May 1998 India detonated five nuclear devices at Pokaran, in the desert state of Rajasthan. Since both India and Pakistan carried out nuclear tests, animosity between the two countries, which have already fought three wars, has escalated. Advice issued by the governments of the USA, UK and Australia warns against any travel to Kashmir, which has been the centre of unrest between India and Pakistan since 1947. Foreign and Indian tourists have been targeted by guerillas in Kashmir, and several hostages have been killed.ECONOMY
Several countries, including Australia, the USA and Japan, imposed punitive economic sanctions on India in response to its nuclear tests. The World Bank has also reacted to the nuclear tests by reviewing and postponing loans to India. This had a spin-off effect on the Indian rupee and stock market, which both took a dive. The sanctions have caused the foreign exchange reserves to plummet by an estimated US$280 million. In response to the sanctions, the Indian government says India will have to tighten its belt and be prepared for tough times ahead. Despite initial pledges to punish India with stiff economic sanctions, the USA (India’s biggest trading partner) is now treading carefully, apparently nervous about destroying its vast business interests in the subcontinent.SOCIETY & CONDUCT
The nationalist government is spearheading a campaign to reduce foreign influence in India. The government is particularly offended by nightclubs and certain theatrical and musical productions, which it believes are undermining the country's culture. The government has stated that kissing on theatre stages is 'permissive'. Theatrical productions and gyrating pop singers, particularly gyrating Pakistani pop singers, will be banned.Government officials have also called for a 11.30 pm closing time for all nightclubs, especially in Mumbai, which has many Western-style bars and theatres.
Facts for the Visitor
VISAS & DOCUMENTS
Three-month tourist visas are no longer available; the only tourist visa now issued is for six months. Check with your embassy for the current fee or check out the following Web sites:Visa Information, High Commission of India:
http://www.docuweb.ca/India/visa.htmlTagish Embassies World wide:
http://www.tagish.co.uk/tagish/links/list.htm'The North East: Foreigners in groups of four can get a permit from the Foreigner’s Registration Office for Mizoram and, depending on the political situation, Manipur and Nagaland. Individual visas are issued by Mizoram/Manipur/Nagaland House, not Foreigner’s Registration or the Ministry of Home Affairs. Individual travel is possible with invitation (my visa was issued in a matter of days) but it depends on the political situation at the time of application.'
Source: Emma Phillips (Apr 98)Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world: http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.html
EMBASSIES
There is now a British Deputy High Commission Consular office in Goa at
Mangurish Building, 18 June Road, 3rd floor, Panaji, Goa 403 001
(Tel 228571).MONEY
Costs
The admission charges to many tourist sites have risen since the current edition of Lonely Planet’s India was published. The cost of most accommodation has also increased – from 5% to 50%. The cost of food has remained fairly stable, but domestic transport costs have risen marginally.Travellers have written to us with the following information:
- The Andhra Bank on Mission Street in Pondicherry does cash advances
- Citibank on Anna Salai, Chennai (Madras) has a VISA card ATM which can be used 24 hours
- In Darjeeling, Grindlays Bank will only cash travellers cheques between 11.30 am and 1.30 pm. It charges a commission of Rs 100. Just down from Grindlay’s in Laden La Rd, the State Bank of India will only take Thomas Cook cheques in sterling and US dollars
- The State Bank of India near the Kalpana restaurant in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan no longer changes travellers cheques
- In Kozhikode (Calicut), Kerala, the State Bank of Travancore accepts all major travellers cheques
- ATMs accept Visa card at the Hong Kong Bank and Citibank in Connaught Place, New Delhi
- Some hotels charge extra for the use ofcredit card facilities and try to convince you that it’s a state tax
Currency Exchange
It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the Indian rupee:
http://www.oanda.com/cgi-bin/nccPOST & COMMUNICATIONS
The number for Gulf Air Reservations has changed to (Tel 322663).A traveller tells us that all Kota (Rajasthan) telephone numbers have changed. All are now six digit numbers starting with a 3 or 4.
'Don’t use telephone charge cards or credit cards in the private STD/ISD call offices. We used one in Main Bazaar, Delhi and our account has since been charged with fraudulent international calls. They must have used last number redial to find out the secret numbers.'
Source: David Hewett & Helen Prosser (Jan 98)Email & Internet Access
Public Internet facilities are increasingly available in India, predominantly in the larger cities and towns. Two recommended recently by travellers are:Chennai (Madras):
SRIS, 1st floor, F22-A, Spencer Plaza,
769 Anna Salai (or Mound Road).Jaipur, Rajasthan:
34 Station Road (behind the Polo Victory Cinema).A traveller offered the following advice if you intend taking a laptop to India:
'The power in India is 240V in theory but it fluctuates down to 190V so most Indian PC installations have power regulators which smooth out the ups and downs for the PC. Power cuts are a daily event and usually occur without warning. Make sure your laptop has good batteries. It might be a good idea to talk to the manufacturer and find out just how much variation it will tolerate, although I think most laptops are designed to cope with poor quality power supplies.'
Source: The Thorn Tree (May 98)INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on India, try the following links:The heritage trail in India:
http://www.incore.com/india/traveli.inheritage.htmlThe Hindu newspaper:
http://www.webpage.com/hindu/The Times of India newspaper:
http://www.timesofindia.com/The Indian Express newspaper:
http://www.expressindia.com/The India Network Foundation offers links to a vast array of practical travel (and otherwise) information:
http://www.indnet.org/An excellent news site, updated regularly:
http://www.indiacurrentaffairs.com/Rediff offers a guide to India as well as travel and event information:
http://www.rediff.com/travel/travhom1.htmThe Ecotravel Center:
http://www.ecotour.org/ecotour.htmHEALTH
'In Agra, the Jaggi Nursing Home (Tel 360315) has changed its name and phone number to Amit Jaggi Memorial Hospital (Tel 330600 or 330601; fax: 330 605), Vibhar Nagar, Agra.'
Source: Anna and Stella, Denmark (March 98)The malaria debate rages on, and while looking at Web sites is no replacement for going to a doctor or infectious diseases centre, the World Health Organization has an informative site:
http://www.who.ch/ctd/DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
'Some friends and I went to a river in Hampi, Karnataka to do some tubing. As we were going down to the river we came across signs pointing to a waterfall, but thought it meant the small spring we had seen and decided to go in regardless. We passed a few rapids and thought it was clear. After cruising down for a few moments we heard water roaring, and an underground waterfall was ahead. Dave went in first, and was pinned in the mouth of the waterfall, Angie and I went under the waterfall and through 20-30m of underground water, emerging in an underground cave with a powerful current. Luckily we both found a rock to hold onto and sit on. We were found about 20 minutes later by two Dutch guys who got a rope and helped us out. Just a warning to others to look before they leap into a tube when in Hampi.'
Source: Chris Malik, Dave O’Brien and Angie (Mar 98)'Around Connaught Place in New Delhi, there is a new scam in which someone drops shit on your shoes so that their buddies with the shoe shine stands can close in for some guaranteed business. This is hardly life threatening but it is extremely annoying.'
Source: Robert & Steve DeCaroli (Dec 97)Several travellers have recently reported violent robberies by locals at the Puri beaches and in Bodhgaya in Bihar. They advise against going out alone at night.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels of India is a new Internet site that offers reservation and online bookings for hotels in India. The site has a searchable index, phone and fax numbers, prices in rupees and US dollars and photographs of some of the hotels included on the site. Most of the hotels listed are in the mid to upper price range. The address is:
http://www.hotelsofindia.comAccording to travellers, the following places have closed down:
- Metropole Hotel (Mysore)
- Embassy Hotel (Aizawl, Mizoram)
- Taj Continental (Calcutta)
- Major Bakshi’s Tourist Home (Agra)
Getting There & Away
AIR
The British Airways office in Mumbai has changed its telephone number to (Tel 2820888). The office is open on weekdays from 8 am to 1 pm and 1.45 pm to 6 pm and on Saturdays from 9 am to 1 pm.Departure Tax
The departure tax for all international flights recently shot up from Rs 300 to Rs 750, but was later brought down because of public protest. It is now a more reasonable Rs 500.Getting Around
AIR
For Indian Airlines flight details check out the following Web sites:Indian Airlines:
http://www.nic.in/indian-airlines/Tourism India:
http://www.incore.com/india/traveli.air.htmlTRAIN
There’s a scam in New Delhi that involves conmen boarding trains before paying passengers and occupying seats in unreserved compartments. They then illegally sell these seats at inflated prices to passengers without reservations.India will have two new luxury trains in 1999 under a new plan by Indian Railways and Sterling Holiday Resorts Ltd. One will cover scenic areas in the north, starting in New Delhi and going to Jaipur, Agra, Gwalior, Jhansi (Khajuraho), Varanasi and Lucknow. The second will travel south from Bangalore to Mysore, Chennai, Kodaikanal, Kanyakumari, Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), Kochi (Cochin) and Udhagamundalam (Ooty).
According to several travellers, there is a new train operating between Mumbai (Bombay) and Margao (Madgaon, Goa). The one-way trip takes about 12 hours; the train departs Mumbai at 10.30 pm and arrives in Goa at 10.15 am the following morning.
There’s reported to be a new train service connecting Mumbai and Mangalore. The express train departs from the Kurla terminus (Mumbai) on Monday, Thursday and Saturday and departs Mangalore for the return journey on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday (double check these times as they may change). The train does the journey in about 16 hours. Reservations can be made at most stations in India connected to the Mumbai Passenger Rail Service booking system.
Travellers on the express train service between Mumbai and Ahmedabad, in Gujarat, can now travel on to Rajasthan following the extension of the service to Jaipur. Trains leave Mumbai Central daily at 7.36 pm, arriving in Jaipur 24 hours later. On the UP express, trains leave Jaipur at 6.50 am, arriving the following day at Mumbai Central at 6.25 am. Other new Indian Railway services shortly to be introduced are a bi-weekly express service between Jaipur and Amritsar and a weekly service between New Delhi and Secunderabad in Andhra Pradesh.
For train timetables, a traveller recommends a booklet called the Rail Dunlya, which can usually be obtained from train newsstands (in Mumbai). It costs Rs 20. For train timetable information check out these Web sites:
Railway Timetable:
http://www.india-travel.com/table.htmIndrail Pass:
http://www.india-travel.com/indrail.htmTimetable for Premier Trains:
http://businesstourism.com/train.htmlCAR & MOTORCYCLE
'There is an excellent new road from Madras to Cuddalore (a small part under construction before Pondicherry).'
Source: Katherine Dunk (January 1998)North-Eastern Region
ASSAM
A new national park, the Nameri Wildlife Sanctuary, has been opened near Guwahati in the north-eastern state of Assam. There are two other parks in this region, the Kaziranga National Park and the Manas Wildlife Sanctuary. The Nameri Wildlife Sanctuary covers 212 square kilometres and is on the banks of the Jia Bharalu River. It is home to the endangered white-winged wood duck, tigers, deer and elephants. According to forestry officials, there are about 20 white-winged wood ducks and 86 tigers in the park.Rajasthan
RANTHAMBHORE NATIONAL PARK
A traveller reports that it is no longer possible to book more than one safari at Ranthambhore National Park in advance unless you book one month ahead. This means you should expect longer queues to get a jeep. If you want to take a morning safari, you have to queue the previous afternoon. To obtain a safari permit, you have to fill in two forms with the same information and submit them with your money.Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don’t stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in India. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers’ reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Scoop û India News Archive
Postcards û Travellers’ Reports From India
The Thorn Tree û Indian Subcontinent Travellers’ Bulletin Board
Propaganda û Lonely Planet’s Latest Guides to India û India, Delhi city guide, Indian Himalaya, Rajasthan, India & Bangladesh travel atlas, Trekking in the Indian Himalaya, Hindi/Urdu phrasebook, Bengali phrasebook
Destinations û Lonely Planet’s Online Mini Guide to IndiaThanks for Your Feedback
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