INDIA

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

You can not get a visa extension anywhere in India. You must either go to Sri Lanka - In Colombo it's possible to get three month visa and in Kandi it's possible to get a six months visa extension. Or, you can go to Nepal (Katmandu) and extend your visa there.

If you intend to remain in India for more than 190 days, you must register with the Foreign Registration Office (Commissioner) of Police, within two weeks of arrival (any major city). If this is not done, you can have problems when leaving the country.

Rumour has it that as a European Community Member, you can go to the Indian embassy in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, and apply for a one year visitor's visa - but travellers should confirm this before they rely on the information.
Perri Arnold Jnr, UK (Mar 99)

A tourist visa costs A$45.00 according to the information provided by the High Commission of India in Camberra. Apply for it there- NOT at the recently opened Indian Consulate in Melbourne, where it costs A$55.00!
Josef Koberl, Australia (Mar 99)

Perhaps I was led astray by the arbitary whims of the immigration official of the day, but when I went to the Foreigners Registration Office in Jaipur, I was informed that a visa extension for my 6 month visa could only be obtained in Delhi. Thankfully I was not in Kerala.
Dav MacMeekin (Mar 99)

It is now very easy to get permits to Sikkim. All Indian Missions abroad are authorised to issue a 15 inner line permit for Sikkim. This can be stamped on the passport at the time of obtaining the visa for India but one must request for it. You can also get a 15 day permit from any of the Sikkim Government Offices located at Delhi (opposite the US embassy) Calcutta or at Siliguri. In case you fail to do this and find yourself at the State border, Rangpo, without a permit, the Tourism Officer stationed there will issue a permit with two day validity to enable you to enter the State and the permit is then very promptly revalidated for the full 15 days on arrival at Gangtok. The State Government also extends the 15 day permit for two further spells of 15 days at a time in case the foreigners wish to stay longer. With the 15 day permit you gain access to Gangtok, and all district headquarters (Namchi, Geyzing and Mangan) and all subdivisional headquarters (Soreng, Pakyong, Ravangla) except for Chungthang in North Sikkim which is accessible only to foreigners who form a group of four or more persons.

Areas like the beautiful Tsomgo (Changu) lake which is a two hour drive from Gangtok, the Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim, and the trekking area in West Sikkim are open only to groups of four or more. All this can be arranged through local travel agents on arrival in Sikkim.

The Government has also recently opened a number of new trekking routes and routes for mountain biking and white water sports for group tourists. The best seasons to visit are March to May and October to November. The winter months are cold but not severe and can be very enjoyable with the rains out of the way. During the summer, the monsoons set in and the roads get effected and travel plans can get frequently disrupted.
Tsegyal Tashi, Home Department, Government of Sikkim, India (Mar 99)

We arranged all visas for Iran, Pakistan and India in Istanbul, Turkey, which took us all together about eight or nine days, reasonably fast. For Iran, you first need a visa for Pakistan (we got less days for Pakistan than people who applied in Brussels). India and Pakistan visa costs about US$20 for Belgians. The Iran visa cost US$50 (for all nationalities) and takes generally five to seven days. The Pakistan visa only takes 24 hours. The visa for India was ready in three days, though sometimes it can take ten days. The advantage was that the Iranian consulate gave us our passports back when our application was still in request, so that we could go to the Indian consulate. We also only had to pay for the Iranian visa when everything was ok, while we heard of some British citizens who had to pay US$50 when applying, without knowing if they would be successful.
Isabelle Cherlet & Dirk Engels, Belgium

Trekking in the Indian Himalaya : If you want to go from Tabo to Rekong Peo, you need a permit from Sumdo to Jangi. To get the permit in Rekong Peo (if you go the other way round) you need three passport size photos and one photocopy of your passport and visa. There is no need for an application from a travel agent. Take this and go to the magistrates office, a three storey building just beow the bus stand. There is no charge and you get the permit in less than two hours. There is no need to apply in a group. The same is in Kaza and in Shimla.

The new bus stand in Kaza is built and located on the bottom end of the village. In the evening you can make seat reservations for the early morning buses.
Tobias Hille, Germany (Sept 98)

In an article in the Indian Express dated 2nd July 1998, it was announced that permits to visit Sikkim would no longer be required. The reason given was to increase tourism in the area.
Mark Holmes, UK (July 98)

Crossing the border from Ronigonj, India to Kaharbitta in Nepal was trouble free. We got our visa at the border, one passport photo required. Visa is $1 per day with a minimum of 15 days and a maximum of 60.

The bank at Kaharbitta changed our Indian currency at the pegged rate of IR 100 = NR 160. One warning: the bank would not change IR 500 notes, only up to 100 rupee notes. We only had one and were able to change it with someone heading to India. If you can, avoid hoping to change 500 rupee notes on arrival in Nepal. Its not impossible, but can be difficult.
Mark Nicholls & Sharon Peake (May 1998)

The North East - Foreigners, in groups of four, can get a permit from the Foreigner's Registration Office for Mizoram and, depending on the political situation, Manipur and Nagaland. However, individual visas are issued by Mizoram/Manipur/Nagaland House, and not Foreigner's Registration or the Ministry of Home Affairs. Individual travel is possible with an invitation (my visa was issued in a matter of days) but it depends on the political situation at the time of application.
Emma Phillips (Apr 98)

A permit is still required to Mizoram, A.P, Manipur and Nugaland. You must be part of a group of at least four people and apply through a travel agent in order to acquire the permit. However, if you really want to go and you don't have a big enough group, it is possible to bypass this requirement. All you need is to find a few travellers who don't mind their name added to the permit. You don't actually have to be with those people when you are travelling. We came from Tripura to Mizoram and nobody requested to see the permit. At some point somebody asked me if we had a permit and I replied that we do, but I had left behind in Aizaul. That was good enough
Inbul Tubi (Mar 98)

There is now a British Deputy High Commission Consular office in Goa at Mangurish Building, 18 June Road, 3rd floor, Panaji, Goa 403 001 (228 571.
Douglas Barrett - British Deputy High Commission, Bombay (Mar 98)

I encounted a lot of trouble when changing travellers cheques - even in quite large towns like Kumbakonam (eventually I had to return to Tanjore, where I had stayed the previous night to cash some). In Rameshwaram I was the first person to succeed in changing a travellers cheque for 6 months according to a English resident who has to go to Madras regularly to change his money. Apparently there are only a few branches of banks authorised to change travellers cheques as there has been a lot of fraudulent presentation of cheques recently, and they need to make proper computer checks. This didn't change the fact that in Goa almost every corner shop changes cheques with no fuss (but extra commission).
Barbara Mears, England (Apr 99)

Intercity buses (with trips lasting up to 7 hours) have at least two speakers broadcasting, to the whim and desired volume of the driver, Singala news, Rugby matches or his favourite tapes. I suggest you either take earplugs or maybe a head set to soften the torture.
Nicolas Carpluk, USA (Apr 99)

Some hostels give approximately 30% discount during the off season in Sikkim. We were there in the middle of Feburary (the 'season' begins in early March) and the discount made staying at out hotel pretty reasonable. The off season also means that there are fewer people and fewer crowds.
Rakesh Agrawal, USA (Apr 99)

While in Goa, a cheap way to live is to rent out someone's house. I paid little for a house on Baga beach. There was no toilet or water, but the well was 100 yards away and we kind of had on outside loo (the garden) It was brilliant!!!
Cheryl Thorne, UK (Apr 99)

Taxi drivers in India never admit to having change (though often they obviously do), so you're better off negotiating a fare that you can pay precisely.

Even when a taxi has been pre-paid in full (and a receipt obtained) the driver may pretend that he has insufficient fuel to complete the journey unless a further cash payment is made.

Sink plugs - Indians wash only in running water (where they can) so there are almost never sink plugs. For purposes like washing small laundry in bathrooms, a universal-type plug is a valuable item. So are a few metres of string and clothes pegs.

My experience with traveller's cheques in three states suggest that the most widely accepted are Thomas Cook and (especially in dollar denominations) American Express.

Many visitors to India may be interested in the comprehensive herbal dietary supplements such as Chyawanprash, available from Ayurdevic pharmacies in sealed plastic containers (about 15 times cheaper than in London).

The Government of India Tourist Office was a helpful outlet with advice and maps.
Peter and Therese O'Neill, UK (Mar 99)

When travelling in India the tap water can be purified easily, affordably and quickly for safe drinking purposes. There are a few water pumps on the market that ensure that almost any water can be made potable. These pumps remove viruses and micro-organisms such as protozoa, fungi, bacteria and dysentary. Therefore, saving on the HUGE amounts of trash visitors accumulate in empty bottled water alone. It is a crime to see the waste of these bottles adding up the already harshly polluted areas.
Sabrina & Wade DeLashmutt, USA (Mar 99)

While we were in Goa we visited the International Animal Rescue Sanctuary which is tackling the problem of Goa's stray dog population. The two English girls who seem to be in charge of things are doing a great job. They rely on donations from tourists and are open for visits on Chogm Road, near Mahindra Jeep Yard, Saligao, Bardez (it's only a short taxi ride away from Calanguate).

There is a new "Artesan and Hippie Market" started in Arpora on Saturday nights. It's a lot smaller than Anjuna and has a lot more Westerners selling stuff, but it's worth a visit if you are in the area. It's just off the Calangute to Anjuna Road.
Narinder Dhami, UK (Mar 99)

I visited the Andaman Islands and went on the trip to Jolly Buoy Island in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine Park. It was very sad to see that they throw the anchors on the reefs in the Park.

The organisation of the boat ride was both funny and frustrating to watch. In a small rowing boat a group of about 10 people are taken to a large boat, waiting approximately 10 metres from shore. This meant that loading up all passengers took at least one hour. Then, at Jolly Buoy, it takes at least an hour and a half to take everyone to the island because while all passengers are waiting, they take the people to shore in a glassbottom boat and go for a tour over the reefs. Some people swan to the island because it took too long for them. By the time everyone is on the island, it is almost time to load up everyone again. It seems such a simple thing to build a jetty, not only to save time but also to save some corals. Most corals are damaged around the island, but the island is beautiful. A sign says : "leave nothing but your footprints", which is a nice effort.

Some shops have opened up in Port Blair which sell shell rimmed mirrors and other shell products. Please don't buy any as it encourages the local people to fish up shells and other marine animals. According to a shopkeeper, the government sets out specific area's for fishing up the shells and these change every year.

On Havelock government people working on the resort empty dustbins on the beach - everywhere. Refuse to use plastic bags and buy one of those nice big cotton bags which also make a nice souvenir.

Open now for foreign visitors are: entire islands of South and Middle Andamans (except reserves), Rangat, Mayabunder, Diglipur, North Passage Island, Little Andaman (exluding tribal reserve).
Visit daytime: Jolly Buoy, South Cinque, Red Skin, Mount Harriet, Madhuban, Ross Island, Narcondum, Interview, Brother, Sister and Barren Island.
It is very likely that more parts will be opened up in the future (according to Tourist Department).

Always double check for flights ahead of time. I waited eight hours in Calcutta before I discovered that my flight to Delhi had been cancelled. There was no information on the boards and and I had confirmed the flight just two days before. With a lot of effort and with the great help of Indian Airlines Duty Managers, I was able to fly to Mumbai last minute and then on to Delhi with half an hour to change planes and just enough time to catch my international connections. I will always double double check my flights from now on.
Pauline Krebbers, Canada (Mar 99)

If the touts for the souvenir and carpet shops become a nuisance, it is sometimes pleasant to be a nuisance back. One way is to discuss endlessly why you should or should not go to their shop. I disputed with one tout for some while. Eventually he said that he wanted me to go to his shop "because we believe that having elderly people in our shop will bring us good luck". I said: "That's crap" and he said : "Yes, but it was all I could think of".
Frank A. Sharman, UK (Mar 99)

Alang, in the state of Gujrat, is the site of a massive ship breaking yard. It is unfortunatley now very difficult to visit. I attempted to visit the site in October, 1998, but was refused entry. It may be possible to get permission in Ahmadabad, although I would recommend looking into it before setting off. Photography is no longer permitted under any circumstances.
Mark Yabsley (Mar 99)

After visiting the Amber Fort in the afternoon, a possibility to have a long, but cheap, elephant ride is to stand at the entry of the Amber Fort on the main road and wait until one elephant rider passes by on their way to the "elephant's sleeping room" and pick you up. The ride goes along the main road (thrilling if there's a lot of traffic) towards Jaipur and ends at the Jal Mahal (water palace). There's almost no water hyacinth in the lake which surrounds it, providing a very special scenery and breeding place for Kingfishers, which in the late afternoon hours do their diving-work.
Rolando Ureta & Gabriela Rose (Mar 99)

If you're wondering where to stay in McLeod Ganj, try the Dip Tse Chok Ling monastary. You have to climb down about 300 steps to get there, but it's worth it when you do. I've never been anywhere more peaceful. It's not too expensive, the rooms are nice, there is running hot water and the food is good too. It definately enhances the idea of staying somewhere primarily Tibetan and Buddhist when you are woken by chanting at dawn, there are prayer flags everywhere you look and monks wandering around in red robes. Amazing.
Charlotte Phillips, UK (Feb 99)

If you are staying in Udaipur, Rajasthan, take the chance to go for a day trip (or longer) to Ranakpur Jain Temple, which is about two to three hours bus ride. It's truly amazing, all built out of marble and all of the 1444 pillars have different carvings on them. One is purposely built crooked, as Jains believe that nothing can be perfect except for the Gods. Be careful not to turn your back to any of the Gods, though, as this is really frowned upon, as is taking their photographs. If you get a chance to talk to the High Priest, he is a really nice guy, who will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about Jainism.
Charlotte Phillips, UK (Feb 99)

In Mumbai, the lobby of the Taj Hotel is a great place for cooling down - the air-conditioning makes it feel like Europe. The toilets are also really clean and there is a bookshop which is great for spending time if you're waiting for a train. However, don't try to change money at reception unless you're a guest - they get very snotty about this. It's a bit unreal walking out of India into a hotel which could be anywhere from London to New York.
Charlotte Phillips, UK (Feb 99)

I found the Red Fort pretty disappointing - the forts in Agra and outside of Jaipur were much better. The sound and light show at the Red Fort is incredibly hokey. There are no laser-type lights - just coloured illumination switched off and on to unintentionally funny sound effects.

The Delhi Jama Masjid closes (I think) 30 minutes before sunset. I missed it the first time, but it is a fantastic mosque, even after five weeks in Turkey.

The park around India Gate was a pleasant escape from dirty, crowded noisy Pahan Ganj. I went on a Sunday afternoon and there were lots (but not too many) of Indian families strolling and picnicking there.

There are some great, quiet vendor-less beaches between Chopdem and Arambol (Goa). It's a great low-traffic and scenic scooter ride. There is a bridge under construction at Chopdem/Siolem that may hasten development though.
Heather Boyd, USA (Feb 99)

The ANZ Grindlays Bank on Mount Road, Madras, opposite Victoria Technical Industries (VTI) and Spencer's plaza has been closed. You now have to go to the main office at Haddows Road.
Snadra Polderman, The Netherlands (Feb 99)

A walk to the main burning ghat, Manikarnika ghat, is a must. Not long after your arrival I was greeted by a guy who insisted he was not a guide, but rather a hospice volunteer who would like to explain the story behind the cremations. I was very sceptical but found that the guy was very informative and answered many of my questions. The guy had a rather novel introduction - "burning is learning, cremation is education" and he would repeat this every time there was a pause in his story. At the end of the lesson he asked if I could donate some money to one of the women in the hospice so that she could buy wood for her imminent cremation! I was happy to give her Rs20 but saw others giving up to Rs100 and then being told that Rs100 wasn't enough.
Paul Weaver, Australia (Feb 99)

I spent New Year's Eve in Bombay. The place to be is in front of the Taj Mahal hotel. The whole area was packed. I haven't said "Happy New Year" and shaken as many hands in my life as I did that night. What an atmosphere!It almost got out of hand when I was being carried around by about 20 blokes, but amazingly my wallet wasn't touched.
Andrew Parth, UK (Jan 99)

Mumbai is a big city and the best way to get around is to use the red buses- they are cheap and the conductors will tell you when to get off. The Victoria terminal train station is very busy so if you need to book tickets make sure you get there at opening, otherwise you will be lining up in the heat for ages. When it all gets too much and you need a break from the hustle and bustle, spend some time in the lobby of the Taj Mahal.
Paul Weaver, Australia (Jan 99)

In Delhi and towns along the Ganges Plain, upper respiratory problems seemed to plague many travellers in December because of high pollution trapped by fog and no wind. It's a good idea to bring or buy a cotton scarf in India to cover mouth and nose in heavily congested traffic areas. Many locals do. Also bring along sinus decongestant medication and an antibiotic eye ointment. The poisonous nature of the air over the Ganges plain cannot be overemphasized.

Visit the Mahabodhi Temple, then revisit at night to witness the devotion of follwers by candlelight; an inspiring scene.

Calcutta is a sophisticated city of fine bookstores, restaurants and bars of a standard that Westerners would enjoy. There are more stop lights and traffic police at roundabouts in this city and more motorists honor the signals, making Calcutta a little more pedestrian friendly than other cities and towns of India.
Gloria & Ronald Duber, USA (Jan 99)

We experienced some difficulties changing money in Bihar. Bank branches do not have the necessary license to handle foreign currency, not even in a district capital like Bihar Sharif. Even in Patna there were problems; the State Bank of India twice refused to cash Amex cheques because they had been issued by a bank they weren't authorised to deal with. The best place to change in Patna is Trade Wings in the Hotel Maurya complex at the top of Fraser Road; they don't charge commission and they give a decent exchange rate.
Robert Harding (Jan 99)

The bank in Bikaner charges 10% commission for travellers cheques and most ATM machines in Jaipur will only accept local cards. There is a scam going down with one of the banks in Jaipur (or so I read on a noticeboard in a hostel), so be careful where you get your cash advance.
Manr Hyman (Jan 99)

If you're going to India and plan to travel economically on the train in second class non-airconditioned, I found it helpful to sew a cotton bedsheet in the form of a sleeping bag to sleep in on the bench seats. It provided a convenient, portable, lightweight and sanitary sleeping surface for trains or any other unusual places. It can be easily washed and quickly dries.
Diane Defore (Jan 99)

To be allowed into the Rajaji National Park, you need to obtain permission first from Mr Joga Singh, Director Rajaji National Park, Haridwar, Bilkeshwar. No further address could be given to me, but the ranger at the reception told me this would be sufficient. The tourist information can probably help here. Prices seem to have gone up considerably (doubled or more), but no details could be given. The place seemed unprepared to receive guests. Without permit you are allowed to walk along the fringes of the park where you can spot some deer and birds. Several buses each day go between Haridwar and Rishikesh. I was there for a few hours and saw three buses going into the direction of Rishikesh. The Tourist Bungalow staff know the schedule.

In Corbett Tiger Reserve, dorm beds and rooms are now Rs 100 and Rs 500. An overnight permit has to be bought at the gate for Rs 300, instead of the office. The bus back to Ramnager now leaves at 10 am, so there still is time for an elephant ride in the morning (but you need to tell the elephant driver to be sure you will be back in the camp in time). Before leaving you need to get a clearance card from the reception, which you show at the gate. If you arrive early in Ramnagar (on your way to the park), it may not be worth your while waiting for the bus, but to continue in a jeep to Dhikala. The costs are Rs 530, including entry of the driver and the jeep. Jeeps are available at the parking place next to the park office in Ramnagar. In Dhikala you will probably be able to hire a jeep for a three hour ride into the park for approximately Rs 500. I definately found it worth the money, especially if you share it with some other people.
Wim van Hoorn, The Netherlands (Dec 98)

If purchasing train tickets from the central booking centre in New Delhi, there are two special counters for credit card holders only. Use your cards and avoid the tiringly long queues at the cash payment counters.
Depinder (Dec 98)

Be prepared when travelling in India to go through every emotion from pure anger and frustration when your train is anything from 5 to 30 hours late, and wonder and awe at the beauty and colours of the country. Be prepared for it to be hard work sometimes, but personally I thought it was worth every minute.

We found that when you are looking for somewhere cheap to stay, Lodges are invariably cheaper than places that call themselves Hotels, this usually is because they are mainly used by Indians not tourists. Some do not like tourists to stay, but the vast majority do not mind, but be prepared for some friendly curiosity if you do stay.

Whilst staying in Thanjavur we witnessed some customer service Indian style. The light bulb in the room next door was smashed on the floor so the person staying in the room asked for a replacement. They took a bulb from an empty room two doors down but the light still didn't work even though it had been working in its original setting. So they suggested that he should change rooms but when the bulb was put back into the room it came from and he was to move to, it no longer worked there either. At this point the staff gave up (he obviously was not meant to have a light that worked so there was no need to carry on trying) and so they left him standing in he corridor half way through moving rooms. He ended up back in his original room with a candle he borrowed from us and very frustrated.
Thomasina Stanford & Andrew Bell, UK (Oct 98)

No foreign exchange is possible from any bank in Lahaul, Kinnaur or Spiti. A number of hapless travellers are getting caught out by this. The State Bank of India in Khasa, Spiti said they had no foreign exchange facility available and this is also the situation in Keylong (Lahaul) and Reconpeo (Kinnaur).

The road from Pin Valley to Mud is only being constructed now (Mikkim is the road end) and Mud is only accessible by a difficult three - four hour walk from Sangnam. Walkers should note that currently there is no guest house, restaurant or tea shop open in Mud and it doesn't look like any is going to open any time soon.
anon (Oct 98)

The best shop in Delhi is Fab India, Delhi's answer to Conran, selling mostly clothes (beautiful kurtas and salwars) but also has fabrics and home furnishings. One of the best bargains are those lovely quilts that all Delhites seem to heap onto their beds in winter, costing about 400 rupees for a single one. Of course it is more expensive than the government emporiums but the quality is impeccable and it is worth going along just to see the Delhi bourgeoisie at play. When the founder died early this year the Asian Age dedicated a whole double page spread in his honour and India Today has even dubbed the new intake of young MP's as the "Fab India Gang", for their espousal of kadi bought from there. It's main outlet is in Greater Kailash I, N block Market.
?? (Oct 98)

In Delhi, the Hong Kong bank is the only place where you can use an ATM card on a Sunday.

India Gate is worth going to at night time as many Indian families come here at this time to escape from their tiny houses - making it a very good atmosphere.
G. Howell,UK (Sept 98)

In New Delhi, it is possible to get cash with a visa card at the Citibank near Connaught Place. There is an automatic teller machine which makes cash advances as easy as in Europe.
Rachel Fisher (Sept 98)

To transfer money in emergency situations, apart from using Moneygram there is also the worldwide spread Western Union. I used this in Delhi after being robbed on the bus. It worked the same as Moneygram, except that I just had to give my father's name as the person who transferred the money for me. I got the money in rupees as well. My father had to pay a fee equivalent to 500 rupees back in Sweden. In Delhi there is an office at SITA, in the Inner Circle of Connaught Place, in the F-block.

There is a lot to say about the increasing amount of litter in India, in small villages to big cities. Concerns are now growing over the small coloured plastic carry bags that could be seen thrown everywhere on Indian streets. These cause severe damage to the environment. Please try to use your own cloth bag instead - don't be a traveller who contributes to the deterioration of India's environment.
Marten Berglund, Sweden (Sept 98)

Try to spend your last rupees at the relatively decent bookstore outside customs because once you pass customs and immigration, you will have a lot of difficulty buying anything (the dinky little bar and the pitiful duty free shop inside, both accept US dollars). Be careful because the customs officials at Dum Dum airport can be quite picky with your belongings. They will try to "confiscate" flashlights, electronic goods, even batteries.
Lawrence Saez (Sept 98)

In Kaza it was very difficult to get the permit to go farther on to Rekon Peo.

The Kaza - Rekong Peop road was closed because of a big landslide. We heard it was possible to walk around the interruption, so we decided to go to Chango by bus, sleep there, and then move in the morning to the landslide. We met three other travellers on the way who were without a permit. They had spent the whole day at the military post on the road before Chango. They said the military post had no telephone and the telex didn't work until the afternoon. They protested that the district Magistrate Office was closed and finally obtained a permission to go to Rekong Peo.
Antonio Tartaglione, Italy (Sept 98)

Konkan Railway (Bombay-Goa/Margao) - The railway line has been finished. Trains are quite in demand. The journey took us almost 16 hours - that is four hours more than scheduled.
Wolfgang Albert, Germany (Sept 98)

No camel safaris, no beaches or crumbling majestic forts, the city of Ahmedabad leaves much to be desired. However, almost all travellers have to either spend a few hours in transit or even recoup from the marathon bus and train rides from Rajastan en-route to the south.

Here are a few surprises to discover that could make your stay if not memorable, at least much more comfortable. For starters how about a city where tourism is so limited that you rarely get approached for pens, chocolate or money. Take delight in the fact that restaurants, shops and even sightseeing tours are geared not for the foreign visitor, but rather the local crowd.

As the Manchester of India textiles are a major focus of this city, visit the Calico museum. The city is also famous for its school of architecture and two well-known architects, Corbusier and Doshi have designed most modern buildings. If you're an architecture buff or just want a change from the old mogul ruins, drop into Doshi's office on Ashram Road and pick up your city guide of his great works free. If trying to navigate your way around this hectic and crowded city isn't your style then you can cruise to the university area where you can check out the School of Architecture; the School of Interior Design; and the Kanoria Centre for the arts, where young contemporary artists from all over India come to work on specific art projects. There are also numerous galleries on campus including Hussain's Guffa.

A must see is the Law Garden. Here, everyday at 4 pm till late, artisans from all over the state set up stalls to sell their wares. It's a great evening out as it is not your usual tourist haunt but rather the social attraction of the city and the area is filled with vendors, restaurants and locals. CG road is another good place to wander (on the new side of the river) and is filled with loads of stores and great restaurants. If you like Indian food, Ahmedabad is your chance to taste a bit more authenticity than the standard tourist fare sold in most popular destinations. Popular amongst the Gujaratis are Sankalp, for Dosas and the Mirch Masala is a local hot spot.

If you still have room in your pack you can pick up block printed fabrics, embroideries and more at Manekchowk in the market area of the old city, Sanscurti just off the CG road and Bandaj located near Metacalee circle, near the Law Garden. Next door is Crosswords, a fabulous English bookstore. New to the city is a cybercafe, Random Access. The cafΘ has 10 terminals and you can access email accounts or surf the net for 60 Rps a half-hour or 100 Rps an hour.
Stephanie Springay (Aug 98)

I took a small radio with ear plugs with me to India which was great for listening to local stations. Even if I didn't understand the language, the music was relaxing after a day touring. I kept it in a small zip lock bag which worked great when I had to check it at places like the Taj Mahal.
Dorothy Dean (Aug 98)

Whether you like the idea of using plastic money or not, Visa/MasterCard are a very convenient way to obtain cash in India as in a lot of other foreign places. Cheaper than travellers cheques and safer than travelling with wads of US dollars. As the BOB (Bank of Baroda) offices are only open to 1 pm, travellers are advised to get up early. For instance, when in Manali, you should take the first (5 am) bus to Mandi if you want to get back on the same day. Some branches take a Rs 50 commission which I find acceptable in view of the good exchange rate and the hassle-free service. A cup of chai is often included. Note that a Bank of Baroda in Delhi is situated at 16 Sansad Marg (Government Road). The office as indicated in LP is only a local branch and usually closed. ATM's can be found at CityBank at the corner of Connaught and K.G. Marg.
Walter Schultz, Australia (Aug 98)

In Dharamasala there is a monthly free magazine called Contact which has all the events and courses taking place in that month. I picked it up at Hotel Tibet and found it very useful. It also has information about teaching or being assistant teachers.
Nesta James, UK (July 98)

If arriving in Delhi there is a phone in the arrivals section where you can ring up hotels who will even come and get you. This is well worth it to avoid the haggling and taxi scammers - while you may pay a little more for the room in India, the little extra is really worth it for your sanity and, let's face it - in currency terms we are not talking about a great deal.
Clair (July 98)

I always ask the Post Office wallah to frank the stamps on the envelope in front of me. People sometimes steam or peel off the stamps and re-sell them.

For women travellers, the standard of dress is important, but its not just a matter of covering up. You should look clean and respectable. When grabbed or groped I think its good to react and shout at him and shame the culprit. Often they seem not to realise that this is not acceptable behaviour.

There's a direct train every day at around 9.30 am from the Raxaul border crossing to Calcutta. When I tried to take it, it was lost! But I'm told it takes 18 hours and would have been most convenient. On no account go to Muzaffarpur and change there, its a hell hole.

I have a few suggestions for environmental consideration. The destruction in Ladakh is very recent and also very fast and almost all a result of tourists.

The Indian Airlines office is often a hell-hole in summer full of panicking tourists. You must not assume that you can get a confirmed ticket out. The flights are often full so don't cut it fine. If there is a set date you must leave, try your upmost to get a confirmed ticket before going to Ladakh. The bus takes three days to Delhi but I think its more reliable.
Jane Masheder (June 1998)

Sikkim is thinking about opening up its borders a little more and changing the inner line permit requirements from 15 days stay to a month. Check with the Sikimese tourist offices first.
Anon (May 98)

A word about "No Objection Certificates". Once a NOC has been obtained, the bike has to be re-registered in the state it has been issued for. This involves paying road tax for the state and getting a new registration number (Rps 2000-3000). I didn't realize this, so when I came to sell my bike in Dehli, all the auto agents knocked the price of registration off the value of my bike. If you haven't got an NOC they will just sell your bike to a foreign tourist and get them to register it in the state where its from. It took me a week to get a NOC in Madras (and a couple of hundred rupees) only to lose Rps3000 off the value of my bike in Dehli.
Alan Reed (Apr 98)

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are isolated in time and space on the eastern boundary of the Bay of Bengal, a 700 km string of 321 tropical islets stretching from southern Burma almost to the northern tip of Sumatra. Although a very long way from India they are actually Indian territory and access is only possible from Calcutta or Madras via India Air or several rusty banana boats, neither mode of transport seeming eager to accommodate. Permits are necessary but are readily available, if flying in, on arrival. The boat is more difficult. These are now available for 30 days, recently extended from 14.
Ian Spiller (May 98)

It's worth checking out the theatre scene - some high quality stuff. We went to see a Hindi play at the Privthi Theatre in Bombay and it was excellent with a very cool cafΘ outside with chocolate brownies etc. Trendy, hip, intellectual Indians gather there. It shows modern stuff.
Naomi Canton

Upon arrival at Mumbai international airport, we investigated the bus as listed in the LP guide. We asked various officials in the airport, locals and a policeman outside and were informed that it no longer exists. The only way to get to central Mumbai appears to be pre-paid taxi or rickshaw. There is a bus depot outside the airport but it appears that the buses go elsewhere. The pre-paid taxi desk is inside the airport before you exit. It's best to get them to ring the hotel of your choice for directions as you'll get the correct price and you'll get there.

At the pre-paid taxi desk you'll probably be charged the most expensive rate (approx RS250) but at least then you needn't worry about the tip/negotiations later. After paying you will be given a receipt with the taxi drivers number place but it's best to show this to a policeman who will make sure that you get in the right taxi.
Naomi Canton (May 98)

"Moneygram" is a very efficient and quick way to get money sent to you. You appoint someone to go to one of the "Moneygram" dealers at home (with your passport number) and gives them the amount of money you want to receive (with a service charge). That person is given a reference number she has to communicate to you by phone or email). As soon as you get the number, you go to one of the "Moneygram" dealers here in India and give the reference number with your passport and get your money. Easy as that. I know that in Delhi you can receive "Moneygram" at the American express office and the great thing there is that you can either cash it in rupees or get it in US dollars travellers cheques.
Anne Williams (May 98)

Whilst camel safaris from Jaisalmer are still worthwhile, the tour operators have started taking groups by jeep to "traditional" villages. Many of these villages are on the highway from Jaisalmer to Sam Dunes and the volume of tourist traffic means that there is a constant influx of foreigners. Inevitably, the villagers have realised there is money to be made and these stops can make you feel very uncomfortable - children wait for the jeeps, women are desperate to get a tourist into their home and the baksheesh demands are for increasingly large amounts. Somehow, the whole situation is in bad taste - cameras intrude into these people's lives thoughout the day and these 5 - 10 minute stop-overs promote the wrong kind of relationship between the travellers and the local. I saw a jeep pull off and a woman throw coins into the sand whilst children scrabbled on the ground and tried to climb inside the jeep. It was all very humiliating.
Emma Phillips (Apr 98)

You will hear lots of horror stories about women being molested during Holi. If women do join in the festivities, be prepared to encounter (and deal with) unwanted hands. Don't go out alone, but in a large group, playing Holi can be an amazing experience. Just don't stray off the main streets. I was in Udaipur for Holi and went out early in the day. The Jagdish temple provided a vantage point when the crowds got too hectic but Holi was one of the most memorable occasions of my trip.
Emma Phillips (Apr 98)

The Andhra Bank on Mission Street in Pondicherry can do cash advances.
Mart Weiss (Apr 98)

After searching for a bank that took Visa Cards, we happened to walk by the Citibank on Anna Sali, Chennai and saw a sign that said we could use VISA cards there - open 24 hours.
Linda Eriksson (Apr 98)

In Darjeeling Grindlays Bank will only cash travellers cheques between 11.30 am and 1.30 pm and charge a commission of Rs 100.

Just down from Grindlay's in Laden Ln Rd, the State Bank of India is still decrepit and slow but has not so restricted hours for travellers' cheques, though it will only take Thomas Cook cheques in sterling and US dollars. American Express can only be cashed in US dollars and not Sterling as we found out to our annoyance. Grindlays are ok on American Express in dollars or sterling.
Aileen A. MacEwan (Apr 98)

Tirumala has a fantastic temple in the town centre and you can get right into the shrine. No hassles. As for head shaving at the top of the hill, for those not familiar with Olde English, the keyword is "Tonsure" and there's a big hall including public baths. It's free and you collect a ticket and personal razor blade and find your barber with the corresponding number. I'd recommend every one do it once in their life. It is the custom to do this before visiting the main shrine.
David Hughes (Apr 98)

There is no longer a ferry service from Calcutta to the Botanical Gardens (since November 97) - a fantastic step backward; though at least the bus to the Botanical Gardens does allow you to see the streets of Howrah - far less congested than its neighbour. David Hughes (Apr 98) At Delhi airport, only Thomas Cook travellers cheques can be exchanged, not Amex.
Lucy Curry (Apr 98)

The Rail transport Museum seems to be a bit of a secret still even though it's been open for several years. I asked for its exact address at the Delhi Tourist Office and the staff were unsure of what I meant and had to consult a reference book and then could only advise that it was "behind the Bhutan Embassy" and give me two telephone numbers. They couldn't tell me where the Bhutan Embassy was. Once you get near it you then find it is well signposted and easy to find. Intending visitors are well advised (a) to get a Delhi city map where its location is indicated, and (b) to avoid the toilets which are disgusting.
David Young - UK (Mar 98)

Calicut, Kerala - The State Bank of Travancore on YMCA Road takes all the major travellers cheques and so does, I think, Grindlays on beach Road, Calicut.
Henry Brownrigg - UK (Mar 98)

In Tamil Nadu chaos at bus stands now seems to be worse than ever as a result of the amalgamation of TTC and state buses.
Henry Brownrigg - UK (Mar 98)

Jaisalmer - The State Bank of India near Kalpana Restaurant no longer changes travellers cheques. On enquiry in the bank as to when this service would reopen, the answer was "never".
Bobbie Bailey - UK (Mar 98)

The American Express Office, Block A, Connaught Place, Delhi is closed on Sundays.

Departure tax at Delhi airport is now 500R per person.
Bobbie Bailey - UK (Mar 98)

We used sleeper buses to travel between Mumbai - Goa and Goa - Hampi. They're a bit like being in a mobile coffin or a kitchen cupboard- depending on whether you get the velvet or wooden model. You can sleep fairly easily on them if you can ignore the crazy driving. They are also very cheap.
Dean Wall, England (Apr 99)

When motorcycling in Kerela, watch out for the buses, they are the worst, most psycopathic drivers in India!! They seem to run to almost impossible timetables. Apart from them, Kerela is a great place to ride, especially the north of Cochin and the ghats. The ride from Mysore to Telicherry is spectacular if a little bumpy at times.
Steve Krzystyniak (Apr 99)

The permit for Sikkim is relatively easy to get in Darjeeling but requires a little bit of walking. Do not hestitate to take shortcut trails which make it enjoyable.
Yves Croteau & Helene Normand, Canada (Apr 99)

I took the Ajmer-New Delhi, Shatabdi express, first class executive. This was a sheer extravagence, but I just wanted to see what it was like. The food was actually very good for a train, and the newspapers and air-con, together with the spacious leg room in front of the adjustable seats, added up to a really special train ride to end my trip to India.
Angus James, UK (Apr 99)

The Mangla Express now goes via Madgaon, from Ernaculum to Delhi ever since the Konkan Railway started. Goa has now become much more accessible and near to Bombay and Delhi. Trivendaram Rajdhani takes only 28 hours to reach Goa (only runs twice a week), compared to the previous 40+ hours and you don't have to change trains. The scenery is also very beautiful, however the window glass of AC compartments is usually not fully transparent and the view is slightly hazy.
Dr Kapil Midha (Mar 99)

Transport between Goa and Hampi is possible. They advertise the only way between the two is a 'Sleeper Bus'. This is not the case. Take the train from Hospet to Londa (4.5 hours only). Then walk up the street from the RR in Londa and catch a regular bus to Panaji, Margao, etc. Total travelling time is 8 hours. If you take the 'Sleeper Bus' (which is hot, more expensive, crowded and impossible to sleep) it will take a total of 12 hours travelling time.
Sabrina and Wade DeLashmutt, USA (Mar 99)

When checking in for a international flight at Delhi, allow considerably more than one hour! It can take almost that long just to get inside the terminal door. Save time and frayed nerves, by security checking your baggage BEFORE queuing up yet again at the check-in counter (as the bags won't be accepted if they are not carrying the security seal)

For domestic flights the ban on batteries was particularly enforced on departure on flights Nagpur-Delhi, Delhi-Gauhati, Gauhati-Delhi. This applied not only to camera and video but also to batteries in torches/flashlights. Batteries were not confiscated, but given to security who supervised us actually putting them into our checked baggage on the tarmac.
John and Elizabeth Cox, U.K. (Mar 99)

When booking flight reservations it is nearly impossible to pay for an Indian flight in rupees. Make sure that you have got a credit card or enough foreign currency.
Tony Galanides (Feb 99)

It is possible to travel between Mangalore in Karnataka to Mumbai on the new konkan railway. The train also passes through the beach resort of Gokarna which makes getting to this otherwise fairly out of the way place much simpler than before. The train also stops in Margao, Goa, enroute to Mumbai, although Indian style delays are common.
anon (Feb 99)

The catamaran between Mumbai and Goa has cancelled all journeys from January 10, 1999 and they say that it could take some time before the boat is back in business again. Just make sure to check the situation before heading there.
R. Huoso, Finland (Jan 99)

According to the Times of India (15th December, 1998) a new bus service from New Delhi to Lahore (Pakistan) was scheduled to operate by the second week of January. It will be the first road link between India and Pakistan and the 400 km long journey should take around 10 hours. The bus will leave New Delhi at 6 am and will cost approx Rs 600.
Rolf & Barbel Birk, Germany (Dec 98)

Readers' should take note of price increases for certain rain fares effective from early July 1998 - there's nothing worse than being told to pay the difference half way to Delhi from Bombay.
Vito Anzelmi (July 98)

When you land at Bagdogra airport there is definitely (at least when we travelled in late September) no bus for travellers to Darjeeling. A whole crowd of disgruntled travellers all quoting the Lonely Planet were told that there isn't a bus - we thought it was a con so we waited and waited. The tourist desk attendant looked mystified that we were waiting for this non existent bus.
Duncan Chofield (June 98)

In Delhi there are now three interstate bus terminals on the outskirts of Delhi to handle most of the long distance traffic. Until everyone's used to the fact that all buses don't funnel through Kashmiri Gate ISBT anymore, there will be mass confusion for travellers, both foreign and Indian. The main problem lies in reaching the new terminals. Once you get to the right one, its a snap. The Anand Vihar terminal has 160 stalls and hosts buses that go as far afield as Kanpur, Jhansi and Almora. To get there you can catch buses from major bus stands in the metropolitan area, such as that near the Regal Cinema and Connaught Place.

To reach the New Delhi Station from the Old, you can always use a pre-paid scooter taxi. Buy a ticket for Rs25 from the stand outside the station.
R Lightbulb Winders (May 1998)

As of February 1998 the ferry service in Calcutta between Babu Ghat and the Botanical Gardens had been discontinued for three months. There were no immediate plans to reinstate it. You can reach the gardens by bus from Howrah Station.
R. Lightbulb Winders (May 1998)

The train line that connects Mangalore to Goa (the Konkan Railway) has been completed and is now fully operational. The line has been operational since April 1998.
Krishnan Sridharan (May 98)

Now it is possible to go to Goa by train from Mumbai (Bombay). The trains are run by Konkan Railway Corporation and it takes around 12 hours. The times are : Mumbai CST Departure - 22.30 pm; Madgaon (Goa) Arrival - 10.15 am.

The 6635Dn/6636UP Kurla Terminus-Cochin/Mangalore Netravati Express will be diverted from the Konkan Railway with effect from 21 Mar 1998.
Samir Gaonkar (Mar 98)

Upon our arrival in Delhi we were confronted by a mass of humanity and the temperature hovering around 35C; fluid was a prime concern to us and after viewing the water sellers, ice sellers "recycled" fanta bottles and so forth, we decided that dehydration was the best option.

Suddenly we came upon a man selling scalding hot tea and decided that whatever was living in the tea had long since died. Having our own cups was a definite advantage to cleanliness and we offered them to him. As quick as a flash, he ladled the tea into the cups, using the front of his vest as a tea strainer.
Jeff White & Caroline Fletcher, UK (Feb 99)

Postcard from Calcutta : I arrived in Calcutta at 10 am after 16 hours in a second class sleeper. The temperature outside was already 36 deg C. Our compartment was crowded with six people sitting on each berth. Some people were standing, babies were crying, bags, sacks, parcels and packs were stowed anywhere possible. Two families, double booked in bunk space, argue for ages with the ticket Collector. The matter was left unresolved with a shrug and acceptance.

Night fell. I claimed my bunk from 9.30 pm to 6.30 am - such luxury. The toilets are usually ok, but not so in this carriage. However, a visit was necessary. Hopping on one jandal (mislaid the other) was hazardous enough until the sight of a stalagmite in one loo, and a man peeing from the doorway into the second toilet, made me abandon my visit. I returned to my bunk to discover my walkman batteries dead. It was a long night. The journey of 1441km cost NZ$16.

Oh Calcutta! First sights of the Hooghly River, grey, sullen but still holy, greet me as I emerge from the Victorian red and cream brick railway station. Life, full scale, is crossing the Howrah Bridge. Trucks, buses, rickshaws, bicycles, bullock carts, porters and pedestrians flow in congested unison. The huge grey metal bridge boasts a notice: "No photography ..an item of Engineering beauty"

Across the river lies the main city, bound by tramlines. The trams run with smart efficiency, although at 5 pm I see a train derailment that causes chaos. The restored beauty of the Writers' Building, previous home of the British bureaucracy in the BBD Bagh area, and the regality of Government House "Raj Bhavan" contrast sharply with the jaded building of the General Post Office.

Life surges from every corner. Chai stallowners offer sweet tea in miniature, handleless clay cups. Fresh fruit salad bravely glistens in the sweltering heat. Local people glide gracefully. A boy washes a tea cloth in a rancid puddle in a gutter near a standpipe. Men gather, soaping themselves thoroughly, cleaning the dirt of Calcutta's busy streets from their bodies. A sudden swirling of pipes is a huge surprise. Indians in Scottish kilts playing bagpipes and side drums escort a cart carrying a Hindu effigy.
Andrew Fincham, New Zealand (Sept 98)

Against all odds we managed to close our backpacks and take one look around for possible forgotten items. I decided to go to the toilet before the bus trip. There was only one toilet, shared by all the houses in the vicinity. It was a little brick house, white, with a green roof. It had no door- instead it had laced palm leaves that served as a door. It had a raised "seat", meaning I had to climb up -two foot prints sided the hole. While I was sitting I heard shovelling around the toilet as if somebody was sneaking around. I put my eye to a hole in the bamboo expecting to see someone trying to get a peek at my bottom. Very close by and directly under me I heard a noise. An "oink". I got such a scare I screamed and nearly fell in the hole. I looked down and in between my feet, under me, I saw the shiny snout of a pig that had just finished my big one. It began oinking impatiently, waiting for its next "meal". I screamed so much that someone came running out to see what had happened. It was only after the two hour train ride that I was able to have a normal conversation - my cheeks were sore from laughing for another two days.
Louise & Dave Hamer (Sept 98)

When my boyfriend and I travelled to Varanasi we took the opportunity to take a boat ride on the Ganges river, the holy water. We left our hotel at 5 am and walked the streets of Varanasi to the row boat which was going to provide us with a tour of the river. Many people were still asleep on the sidewalk. Dawn was just about to crack when we got to the boat.

When we started our tour, we began by floating past the burning Ghats. Burning Ghats are like crematoriums where the dead are burned. Little kids were rummaging through the ashes for jewels and valuables that had once belonged to the corpses. On the side of the riverbank was a corpse that had not fully burned. A dog was chewing on the leftovers. Only several yards away, people were bathing in the holy water and lathering up with soap and shampoo. Slightly further down the river, a dead animal carcass was floating around, while those on shore were doing laundry and slapping out their sheets up against the rocks. Not to mention the trash that was floating around in the river. All the activity on the river was mesmerising. Somehow everything I saw on that river co-existed. Never in my wildest dreams did I think it was possible to see dead corpses, both human and animal floating by, while people were bathing and washing clothes with mounds of trash floating by on one small stretch of river.

People in India seem completely accepting of their daily surroundings and the activities that play themselves out. If they were bothered by anything, it never showed. Indians are amazing pacifists. This environment would probably not have been tolerated in other part s of the world, without violence.
Sharon Flier (Sept 98)

Dinner was finished on the first night of my camel safari out of Jaisalmer when we realised that one of the camel drivers had disappeared. The others went to look for him, leaving me with four camels.

They returned twenty minutes later, empty-handed and decided to go into the village to look. They took one camel and told me to watch the other three who had, thus far, been well behaved.

No sooner had they left from view that the first camel, then another, rose and started snorting at each other and moving toward me. Having not yet actually ridden a camel, but afraid that they might trample our supplies, I picked up a stick and tried to push one of them down. As he charged at me, I backed up onto the dunes, rationalising that all I was asked to do was "watch" the beasts.

15 minutes later the two camels were beginning to settle down when the third became feisty. Now they started to bull each other. 30 minutes later they were far off and, in the blink of an eye, had disappeared over the horizon.

For the next hour, under a full moon, I used my stick to fend off wild dogs that occasionally came by. Never have I felt so alone - no telephone, no fax, no laptop, no nothing.

Finally they returned, having rounded up the three obstreperous camels. The lost driver returned in the middle of the night and the next day, abashed and hung over, was quiet, little knowing he had provided me with one of the most memorable experiences of my life.
Brian Sands (Apr 98)

We were in Udaipur, trying to find a cheap, flexible and practical way for myself, my wife and our two children to explore the city. "Wouldn't it be great if we could hire an auto-rickshaw for me to drive us around for the day", I said to my wife.

She suggested I give it a try so I approached a driver sitting in the front of a better looking machine and bet down to negotiate. Unfortunately, my obvious excitement removed any bargaining power I had. Still, R350 (US$9) for the day, plus fuel, is good value. He showed me how to drive and after some scary moments with my heart in my mouth, we dropped him off and sped off. It was a fantastic day, ending with us winding in amongst the pedestrians, cows, bicycles and other vehicles in traffic choked, labyrinthine old Udaipur after I had gotten really confident.

And we got the most comical looks from the locals when they saw a Westerner driving a rickshaw around the city. I recommend anyone to give this a try when in India.
Ian Lockley (Apr 98)

I feel that it would be of interest for many serious travellers that Mulganda Kuti Vihar in Sarnath is supposed to harbour the remains of the Buddha. These were discovered by Sir John Marshall in 1913 near the ancient city of Taxila (Takshasila) in Punjab, in a small Buddhist chapel close to the Dharmarajika Stupa, in a reliquary containing a silver scroll on which is engraved an inscription dated in the year 136 (circa 79 AD) wherein they are recorded to be the relics of the Blessed One. These relics were presented by the Earl of Willington, Viceroy and Governor General of India, to the Mahabodhi Society to enshrined in Sarnath. An appropriate inscript can be found in the temple. This is an important part of establishing the real existence of the historical personality of Buddha. The remains rest three feet under ground under the central statue in the temple.
Robert Gasser (Mar 98)

The Bodhgaya annual NYINGMA MONLAM CHENMO (annual Prayer for World Peace) - it was the 9th in 1998 was initiated by the present Dalai Lama and is quite an event. It takes place in early February and is worth visiting. There are literally thousands of Tibetan monks and Buddhists. It should find mention that Bodhgaya also has a Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute where one can seek advice.
Robert Gasser (Mar 98)

Travelling between Patna and Gaya, as usual, none of the scheduled trains were on time, nor on the platform it should. As usual I asked someone who looked like he could speak English at the platform: "Train to Gaya - this platform?"
Staring, no answer.
Another one: "Train to Gaya - here? (pointing at the platform).
"I don't know."
Since the train at this platform was actually due to leave, I walked up to the 1st class coach of the train and asked again: Is this train going to Gaya?"
The man sitting in the train: "I don't know"
I wondered a bit : "Where do you go?"
"I don't know."
"Is there anybody in this coach who knows where he is going?"
No answer
The scene reminds me of an old Zen saying : "Not knowing is the most ultimate."
Robert Gasser (Mar 98)

Female tourists should avoid being out alone in India on Holi Day. A lot of the men are drunk or high (or both) and there are no taxis in service until late in the afternoon. Last Holi Day I was in West Bengal and I made the mistake of venturing out alone. I was sexually assulted and robbed (not to mention being covered from head to toe in coloured paint that didn't wash out for 7 days). The police are no help in this type of situation.
Julie, Australia (Apr 99)

NEVER ever drink Calcutta water. I was there a long time, but got giardia really bad. You can't treat it, really, so you just have to stand still on the street when you get cramps.
Nienke Groen, The Netherlands (March 99)

When in Kashmir I booked a B class houseboat. The owner tried his best to get me to take the delux model butI refused. Before we were taken to our boat they convinced us to look at the delux boat. Again he tried to convince us to change our minds and stay on the better boat. Finally they took us to our boat. It looked as if someone had been living in it. Again they tried to convince us to change our minds to the delux boat and it got to the point of a argument but we kept our original booking. Later we found out that our boat was of a D class level not a B class. From then on it got worse as we could not get off the boat without the owner arranging our day. Eventually we went on one of his arranged tours and again we were ripped off. There isn't much tourism in Kashmir and travellers need to be aware of locals trapping tourists on a boathouse or resort as we were.
Manja Rekhi, UK (Mar 99)

The beach at Auroville (at the village Chinna Mudaliarcharcdi), is not very safe to stay on after dark. I was mugged on this beach, and the locals say that it is very common. They advise that you don't take any valuables out onto the beach at night.
Martin Didler, Germany (Mar 99)

On arrival at the Delhi Railway Station about fifteen Indians approached us and insisted that the place on the second floor for tourists to get tickets was being decorated and had moved across the road. We practically got pushed across the road to the GOVERNMENT OF TOURISM OFFICE about four doors away from the end of the road on the left hand side, where upstairs a Kashmir travel agent proceedd to book all of our train tickets. The tickets arrived about six hours later and the agent had very kindly put all the information about the train platform, our seat number etc on a small peice of paper that he stapled to the bottom of our tickets. So off we went first stop Agra where we got talking to a Indian who out of curiosity asked us how much we had paid he then asked to see our tickets where he then peeled off the small peice of paper stapled to the ticket to reveal the actual cost of the tickets. We had been ripped off by 140.00 Englich pounds.
Franki Howes and Lorraine Fry (Mar 99)

My brother went swimming at a small beach town in Kerala called Varkala. My brother, who swam daily for hours at a time, drowned just offshore as a result of the strong tides and currents. There are no signs or lifeguards. Please be aware that the currents and tides are especially dangerous in Kerala and be careful.
Anon (Mar 99)

Though I had a wonderful time on a recent trip, I did have an unfortunate experience in Siliguir. I was waiting on a bus in Siliguri to leave for Calcutta, when I felt something being poured down the back of my shirt. Almost immediately a terrible itching and burning sensation covered my neck, back, and eventually my hands from trying to scrape away the offending powder. It must have been itching powder of some sort, though a very potent one. I managed to give my bag to someone who looked trustworthy and rushed off the bus pouring a bottle of water down my back, cursing loudly.

The attempt is to separate you from your bags or corner you in a bathroom as you try to wash off the irritant. Luckily I had heard of this happening to other travellers in the Chennai train station and knew what was happening.
Mark Jackson, Canada (Feb 99)

I am writing this in a hope that you can help me in my desperate attempt of finding my son, Ardavan Taherzadeh, a resident of west Vancouver. He has been missing in India since May, 1997. He called us regularly and his Indian visa was due to expire on June 12, 1997. His last contact was a phone call on May 12st 1997 - he had a reservation from South Korea to come home on June 25th but he did not make his flight.

I went to Kullu Valley and to the place where my son made his last phone call from and put up posters of him everywhere I went. I spoke to a few people who had spent some time with my son and remembered him; they all said that he looked very healthy, happy and was talking about going back to Canada. I saw a poster of a British fellow who was also missing in the same area where my son called last.

I am writing this to see if anyone has any information that may help me. I would also like to warn people who are planning on travelling in the Himachal Pradesh, Kullu District (especially the Parbati Valley). During my search I have discovered that foreign embassies have received over a dozen reports of foreigners missing in the Kullu District over the last three years. The UK has recently opened a bureau of missing people to address this disturbing pattern. If you have any information or questions please mail me at : homa_boustani@bc.sympatico.ca.
Homa Boustani (Jan 99)

A particularly vicious and agressive scam operates at the two burning ghats in Varanasi. As you approach the burning ghats someone will tell you that the area is only for families only and you should move into a spot which, in fact, gives you a prime viewing area. If you don't take a photo, you will be pushed along after a few minutes. If you do take one, (as many people do tempted by this excellent vantage point) you're in for it. Two or three men will immediately demand your camera and film as evidence, stating that you've broken the rules and are now subject to six months in jail; you will have your passport confiscated and face a US$600 - 2,500 fine. They attempt to "islolate" you by taking you to their office. As you try to walk away, their behaviour becomes even more threatening and aggressive.

At this point a "compromise man" comes offering you another way of solving this problem by offering a donation to a hospice. I suggest that you demand to see the scamer's ID (they don't have any even though they claim to work at the ghats) and refuse to co-operate. Try to get someone from the crowd to help you or just visit the ghats in the safety of a group.
Kevin (Jan 99)

I want to alert travellers of the dangers facing female travellers in Jaipur. I caught an auto-rickshaw up to the Tiger Fort to view the sunset, when I suddenly found myself isolated from other travellers and surrounded by the drivers' friends who were waiting with alcohol and ganga. Fortunately for me there was one other group of travellers at the Fort who realised that something was wrong and helped me escape.

I was told that many girls have been raped and abandoned at the Fort. The men wait until the sun has gone down and then claim to have car troubles, making their passenger get out and push. The fact that they are now using rickshaws to cruise for girls is, I think, a frightening development and had I known, would have avoided by sharing transport with other travellers.
Alison Bennett, Australia (Dec 98)

A very serious problem is encountered by foreigners travelling in Agra. Literally everyone staying in this town gets sick; some with colds and fevers, others with typhoid, but mostly with giardia symptoms. There was some rumours that local restaurants were perhaps poisoning the food, since restaurants and hotels can receive baksheesh for recommending a hospital to ailing tourists. Sometimes, the hotel at which you stay will try to collect baksheesh from the hospital as well as the restaurant you commonly eat at, even if the hotel did not recommend you to the hospital. My travelling buddy and I both were sick in Agra, and were recommended a hospital by a restaurant (which I am sure involved baksheesh for the owner). Our hotel caught wind that we had been treated, and wanted to collect baksheesh from the hospital as well as our restaurant. As they did not know which hospital we visited, our hotel sent thugs over to our restaurant to pressure the owner into revealing our hospital and into paying the baksheesh. When he refused to pay or divulge the information, the thugs spent two days following my friend and I around Agra waiting for us to lead them to the hospital. We were unaware they were following us for the first day, but found out the second day. Several times that day they stopped us in the streets and tried to "sell" us health insurance (needless to say never buy health insurance from a street hawker). They became increasingly belligerent and we were afraid for our safety in that town. Unfortunately, we were too sick to leave town for about five days, so we c hanged hotels, holed up in our new room and did not go outside until the day we left for Delhi. Beware of Agra!!
C.H. Pierce, USA (Nov 98)

In Varanesi, the latest scam actually revolves around the LP guide. Entrepreneurial hotel owners have clearly read the book and changed the name of their establishments accordingly. They then have agreements with those who collect you from the early morning trains who whisk you off. By the time you are awake, you are booked into a dive with no door locks but with the right name. As you orientate yourself in the city, you realise that you are not where the book says you are. We met many travellers who had suffered in this way.
George Casley, UK (Aug 98)

In Delhi as I was trying to buy a ticket to Dharamsala, a guy tried to persuade me to go to Kashmir and stay on a houseboat. He showed me letters from travellers who had been and pictures of how beautiful Kashmir is. I really wasn't interested as I knew that I wanted to go to Dharamsala so I bought my ticket. Later I went back to be taken to the bus and he started again about Kashmir and how boring Dharamsala is and out came the letters again. In Dharamsala I met an English girl who had gone to Kashmir after similar sales talk and had nothing good to say about Kashmiris and their houseboats. I told her about the letters and she had been forced to write one before being allowed to leave.
Nesta James, UK (July 98)

Drug use, even cannabis, should be avoided at all costs. Penalties are severe. The National Drugs and Psychotropic Substances (NDPS) Act is unforgiving and the minimum penalty for anything which the judge believes is not personal use, is 10 years; there is no remission.
Douglas Barrett - British Deputy High Commission, Bombay (Mar 98)

A travel insurance scam popular is Agra involves a restaurant poisoning the food and then arranging for the victim to be taken to an obliging hospital for which they will receive 50% commission from the travellers health insurance payout.
Richard Thomson (Mar 98)

Some friends and I went to a river in Hampi, Karnataka to do some tubing. As we were walking down to the river we came across signs pointing to a waterfall, but thought it referred to the small spring we had just seen and decided to go in regardless. We passed a few rapids and thought it was clear. After cruising down for a few moments we heard the roaring of water - an underground waterfall was ahead. Dave went in first, and was pinned in the mouth of the waterfall; Angie and I went under the waterfall and through 20-30m of underground water - immerging in an underground cave with a powerful current. Luckily we both found a rock to hold onto and sit on. We were found about 20 minutes later by two Dutch guys who got a rope and helped us out. Just a warning to others to look before they leap when tubing in Hampi.
Chris Malik, Dave O'Brien and Angie (Mar 98)