 Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Commonwealth of Australia
Area: 7,682,300 sq km
Population: 18,090,000 (growth rate 1.4%)
Capital city: Canberra (pop: 311,000)
People: 94% European descent, 4% Asian, 1.5% Aboriginal
Languages: English, Aboriginal languages (plus Italian, Greek and
numerous other European and Asian languages)
Religion: 75% Christian, 1% Muslim, 1% Buddhist, 0.5% Jewish
Government: Independent member of the British Commonwealth
Prime Minister: John Howard
Governor-General: Sir William Deane
 Environment
Australia is a vast island continent situated south of Indonesia and
Papua New Guinea between the Pacific and Indian oceans. The world's sixth
largest country, Australia measures some 4000km east to west and 3200km
north to south. Much of the interior of the country is flat, barren and
extremely sparsely populated. The bulk of the population lives on the narrow,
fertile eastern coastal plain and on the south-eastern coast. The continent-long
Great Dividing Range runs north-south down the eastern seaboard, separating
the coastal plain from the drier inland areas. The Great Barrier Reef lies
between 50-300km offshore and extends 2000km from the Torres Strait to Gladstone.
 Aussie
wildlife (18K)
Australia is blessed with a fascinating mix of native flora and fauna.
Its distinctive plants include the ubiquitous gum tree or eucalypt, of
which there are some 700 species. Other common plants are wattle, banksia,
waratahs, bottlebrushes, paperbarks and tea trees. Endemic animals include
the iconic kangaroo, koala and emu, and the platypus, echidna, possum, wombat
and dingo. There are also a number of interesting birds, such as parrots,
cockatoos and kookaburras. Fauna to be wary of include Australian spiders
(especially the redback and funnel-web), snakes (notably the venomous brown,
tiger, death adder, copperhead and red-bellied black varieties) and both
salt and freshwater crocodiles. There are more than 500 national parks,
incorporating rainforests, deserts, mountain ranges and coastal dunes.
Newman
Gums (22K)
Australian seasons are the antithesis of those in Europe and North America:
summer starts in December, autumn in March, winter in June and spring in
September. Seasonal variations are not extreme and it's rare for temperatures
to drop below zero on the mainland except in the mountains. As you head
north, the seasonal variations become even less distinct. Darwin, in the
far north, is in the monsoon belt, where there are just two seasons: hot
and wet, and hot and dry.
Twelve
Apostles, Victoria (18K)
The southern states are popular during the summer months, but the best
time to visit is probably the shoulder seasons of spring or autumn when
the weather in the south is mild, Queensland is still warm, the humidity
is not too draining in the north and there are less flies in the bush. Spring
in the outback can be spectacular if rains encourage wildflowers.
 History
Australia's original inhabitants, known as Australian Aborigines, have the longest continuous cultural history in the world, with origins dating back to the last Ice age. Although mystery and debate shroud many aspects of Australian prehistory, it is generally accepted that the first humans travelled across the sea from Indonesia about 70,000 years ago. The first visitors, called 'Robust' by archaeologists because of their heavy-boned physique, were followed 20,000 years later by the more slender 'Gracile' people, the ancestors of Australian
Aborigines.
Europeans
began to encroach on Australia in the 16th century: Portuguese navigators
were followed by Dutch explorers and the enterprising English pirate William
Dampier. Captain James Cook sailed the entire length of the eastern coast
in 1770, stopping at Botany Bay on the way. After rounding Cape York, he
claimed the continent for the British and named it New South Wales.
In 1779, Joseph Banks (a naturalist on Cook's voyage) suggested that
Britain could solve overcrowding problems in its prisons by transporting
convicts to New South Wales. In 1787, the First Fleet set sail for Botany
Bay under the command of Captain Arthur Philip, who was to become the colony's
first governor. The fleet comprised 11 ships, 750 male and female convicts,
four companies of marines and supplies for two years. Philip arrived in
Botany Bay on 26 January 1788, but soon moved north to Sydney Cove, where
there was better land and water. For the new arrivals, New South Wales was
a harsh and horrible place, and the threat of starvation hung over the colony
for at least 16 years.
Free settlers began to be attracted to Australia over the next decades,
but it was the discovery of gold in the 1850s that changed the face of the
colony. The huge influx of migrants and several large finds boosted the
economy and irrevocably changed the colonial social structures. Aborigines
were ruthlessly pushed off their tribal lands as new settlers took up land
for farming or mining. The Industrial Revolution in England required plenty
of raw materials, and Australia's agricultural and mineral resources expanded
to meet the demand.
Australia became a nation when federation of the separate colonies took
place on 1 January 1901 (although many of the legal and cultural ties with
England remained). Australian troops fought alongside the British in the
Boer War, WW I and WW II. However, the USA's role in protecting Australia
from Japanese invasion during WW II marked the beginning of a shift in allegiance.
Australia subsequently followed the USA into both the Korean and Vietnam
wars in Asia.
Post WW II immigration brought a flood of European immigrants, many of
them non-British. The immigrants have since made an enormous contribution
to the country, enlivening its culture and broadening its vision. In the
1980s, Australia accepted large numbers of Asian refugees, especially from
Vietnam. Socially and economically, Australia is still trying to come to
terms with its place in Asia. Issues of the day include republicanism, universal
acceptance of the Native Title Act passed in 1993 and the alarming rise
of a racist right-wing party called One Nation. Unfortunately, many Aborigines continue to live in deplorable conditions.
 Economic Profile
GDP: US$340 billion
GDP ranking in the world: 13th
GDP per head: US$19,007
Annual growth: 3%
Inflation:1%
Major products/industries: Minerals, oil, coal, gold, wool, cereals,
meat.
Major trading partners: USA, Japan, ASEAN, New Zealand, South Korea
and the EU.
Australian
dandy (20K)
 Culture
Australia is a multicultural society. Until WW II, Australians were predominantly
of British and Irish descent, but that has changed dramatically. Large immigrations
from Greece, Italy, Yugoslavia, Lebanon and Turkey followed the war and
have been supplemented by more recent influxes of immigrants from Asia.
There are also about 230,000 Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders. Many
Australians speak Italian, Greek, Lebanese, Vietnamese or Turkish as a first
language. English-speaking Australians are liable to use a hotchpotch of
indigenous slang and shortened words that often makes their speech impenetrable.
Australia has a rich artistic heritage and a vibrant contemporary art
scene. Aboriginal rock carvings and paintings date back at least 30,000
years. European settlers began to produce distinctively Australian art forms
towards the end of the 19th century. Australia's mid-20th century artists
were world figures (Sidney Nolan, Arthur Boyd, Patrick White) and its modern
practitioners have excelled in painting (Brett Whiteley, Fred Williams),
literature (Peter Carey, Thomas Keneally), opera (Joan Sutherland), film
(Peter Weir, Bruce Beresford, George Miller, Gillian Armstrong), acting
(Mel Gibson, Nicole Kidman) comedy (Barry Humphries), dance (Graeme Murphy,
Paul Mercurio) and popular music (Nick Cave, INXS, Midnight Oil, silverchair).
Modern Aboriginal art has undergone a
revival in the last decade as Aboriginal artists have explored ways to both
preserve their ancient values and share them with a wider community.
Sport is the Australian religion and Aussies are worldbeaters in cricket,
rugby league, rugby union, swimming and cycling. Other popular sports are
basketball, yachting, soccer and Aussie Rules - a unique Australian sport,
similar to Gaelic football. The Olympic Games will be held in Sydney in
2000.
 Events
Christmas is part of the long summer school vacation and during December
and January you can be forgiven for thinking that half of Australia is on
holiday. This is when accommodation is almost always booked out. National
holidays peculiar to Australia include Australia Day (January 26),
which celebrates the arrival of the First Fleet, and Anzac Day (25
April), which commemorates the landing of Australian and New Zealand armed
forces at Gallipoli in 1915.
 Facts for the Traveller
Visas: Every nationality except New Zealanders need visas. Tourists
visas are generally valid for six months and cost US$22. Visas for less
than three months are free.
Health risks: Sunburn, spider bites,
snake bites
Time: There are three time zones: Eastern Standard Time is UTC
plus 10 hours; Central Time is UTC plus 9.5 hours; and Western Time UTC
plus eight hours.
Electricity: 220-240V
Weights & measures: metric (see the conversion
table.)
Currency: Australian dollar
Relative costs:
- Budget room: US$6-12
- Moderate hotel: US$20-60
- Top-end hotel: US$70 and up
- Budget meal: US$3-5
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$7-15
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$17 and up
If you're coming from Europe or the USA, Australia is going to look pretty cheap. Food, in particular, is great value. Accommodation is also reasonably priced, and if you're staying in hostels or on-site caravans or camping, and mostly making your own meals you could conceivably get by on about US$18 a day. Travel will be your biggest expense - distances are long and fuel's pricey - so if you're moving around a bit, eating out once or twice a day and staying in low-end hotels, budget around US$50 a day. If you're only coming for a couple of weeks and plan to take a few internal flights, you'll be looking at more like US$100 a day.
You'll have no problems changing foreign currencies or cash at almost any bank or exchange agent. Travellers cheques generally get a better rate than cash. Credit cards are widely accepted (and pretty much compulsory if you're going to rent a car), and ATMs all over the country accept credit and Cirrus cards.
Tipping is getting a foothold in Australia, particularly in cafes and restaurants in the bigger cities - 10 or 15% is the usual. However, you won't be looked down upon if you don't tip. Taxi drivers are always grateful if you leave the change.
 When to Go
Any time is a good time to be in Australia. Summer (December-February) can get uncomfortably hot just about anywhere, except Tasmania. If you're in the southern states during these months it's great beach weather and great melanoma weather. Up north, this is the wet season, when it's very, very humid and when the sea is swarming with box jellyfish. On the upside, the Top End is beautifully green and free of tourists at this time.
From June until August things have cooled down a little and dried up a lot up north. This is a good time to visit Queensland or the outback. If you're here for the skiing, now's the time to head for the snowfields of Victoria and NSW. Overall, spring and autumn are probably the safest bets - the weather is reasonably mild wherever you are, and spring brings out the wildflowers in the outback, while autumn is particularly beautiful in Canberra and in the Victorian Alps. If you want to avoid holiday road chaos, don't arrive in Australia at Easter.
Australia's premier city is the oldest settlement in Australia, the economic powerhouse of the nation and the country's capital in everything but name. Built on the shores of the stunning Port Jackson, you would have to die and go to heaven before you see a more spectacular setting for a city. It's a vital, self-regarding metropolis, exuding both a devil-may-care urbanity and a slavish obsession with global fads. Preparations for the 2000 Olympic Games are now underway as the city strives to bring its civic life on a par with its natural charms.
The Sydney area was the ancestral home of the Daruk tribe, whose territory extended from Botany Bay to Pittwater. There are some 2000 Aboriginal rock engraving sites in the Sydney area, and many of Sydney's suburbs have Aboriginal names. The city of Sydney began life as a penal colony in 1788, and for the next 60 years received the unwanted, persecuted and criminal elements of British society. Despite its brutal beginnings, the city's mixture of pragmatic egalitarianism and plain indifference has transformed it into a thriving multicultural society. Sydney now attracts the majority of Australia's immigrants and the city's predominantly Anglo-Irish heritage has been revitalised by large influxes of Italian, Lebanese, Turkish, Greek, Chinese and Vietnamese.
Australia's second city is a place of contradictions and hidden charms. A leafy, bayside community on the `upside-down', brown Yarra River, it is cosmopolitan, suburban, cultivated, football crazy, conservative and a haven for the avant-garde. Visitors come for its shopping, restaurants, nightlife and sporting calendar, encouraging many Melburnians to believe that they live in one of the most civilised cities in the world.
One of Australia's greatest assets is the magnificent reef which runs along virtually the entire coast of Queensland. Considered one of the world's natural wonders, it is the most extensive reef system and the biggest structure made by living organisms on earth. In the north, the reef is virtually continuous and is located only 50km (30mi) from the shore. In the south, individual reefs are more common, and in some places up to 300km (190mi) offshore. Hundreds of islands dot the reef area. About 20 of them have resort facilities, but it's possible to camp on many others.
Cairns is the tourist `capital' of the Far North and one of Australia's top travellers' destinations. Not long ago, it was just a sleepy tropical backwater. Unfortunately, much of its allure and tropical languor has vanished amid the rapid growth of tourist infrastructure, but it is still one of the best bases for exploring the riches of Queensland. From Cairns, you can arrange trips to the Great Barrier Reef, Green Island and Fitzroy Island, the beautiful Atherton Tableland, the market town of Kuranda, the string of enchanting beaches stretching 50km (30mi) north to Port Douglas, and the spectacular rainforest and coastal scenery of Cape Tribulation and the Daintree River.
Kakadu National Park is one of the natural marvels of Australia. It encompasses a variety of superb landscapes, swarms with wildlife and has some of Australia's best Aboriginal rock art. The vast park is 153km (95mi) by road from Darwin, in the Northern Territory, and stretches more than 200km (125mi) north to south and 100km (60mi) east to west. It is on the World Heritage list both for its natural and cultural importance. Part of the park is Aboriginal land and there are three contentious uranium mining leases operating in the east.
Uluru is a site of deep cultural significance to the local Anangu Aboriginals and the most famous icon of the Australian outback. A pilgrimage to Uluru and the coronary-inducing scramble to the top was an entrenched Australian ritual, but the Aboriginal owners would prefer visitors not to climb the rock and many visitors are now respecting their wishes. The 3.6km (2.2mi) long rock rises a towering 348m (1141ft) from the pancake-flat surrounding scrub, smack in the middle of the country, and is especially impressive at dawn and sunset when the red rock spectacularly changes hue. There are walks around the base of the rock which pass caves, rock art and sacred Aboriginal sites. Nearby Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), 32km (20mi) west of Uluru, are equally impressive monoliths and Mt Olga is actually much higher than Uluru. The Valley of the Winds is a worthy 6km (4mi) circuit.
Rising from the northern end of Spencer Gulf, in the east of South Australia, and running north for 800km (500mi), the Flinders Ranges are, to many seasoned travellers, the epitome of outback Australia. It's a superb area for bushwalks, wildlife and taking in the ever-changing colours of the outback. In the far north, the mountains are hemmed in barren salt lakes.
The best-known feature of the range is the huge natural basin known as Wilpena Pound which is ringed by 1000m (3280ft) cliffs. Other attractions include Alligator Gorge in Mt Remarkable National Park, Brachina Gorge, and the ironstone capped ridge known as the Great Wall of China. Winter is probably the most pleasant time to visit, but the ranges are greenest and carpeted in wildflowers in spring. The most convenient towns are Quorn and Hawker.
Tasmania's status as Australia's only island state has been a major influence on its historical, cultural and geographical development. Originally known as Van Diemen's Land, it was established as a separate penal settlement, isolated from the colony at Sydney Cove, and its seclusion has since helped to preserve its colonial heritage and most of its wilderness areas. It did not, however, protect its Aboriginal population, which was all but wiped out after only 35 years of brutal European occupation. In recent years, Tasmania has played a vital role in world environmental and conservation issues. The state is circled with excellent beaches, dotted with remarkably well preserved historic villages and home to some of the finest bushwalks in Australia.
Perth, the capital of Western Australia, is a vibrant and modern city pleasantly sited on the Swan and Canning rivers, with the cerulean Indian Ocean to
the west and the ancient Darling Ranges to the east. It claims to be the sunniest state capital in Australia, though more striking is its isolation from the rest of the country (Perth is closer to Singapore than to Sydney).
The rugged Kimberley at the northern end of Western Australia is one of Australia's last frontiers. It's a little-travelled and very remote
area of great rivers and magnificent scenery. If you're looking for quintessential Australian landscapes of red earth, rock,
gum trees and blue skies, this is the place to come. Wildlife includes freshwater crocodiles, wallaroos and the rare black-footed wallaby. Attractions include the spectacular gorges on the Fitzroy River, Wolfe
Creek meteorite crater, the Gibb River Road and Bunge Bungle National Park. Halls Creek is
the largest town in the Kimberley. Derby, 220km (136mi) away at the mouth of the Fitzroy River, is a useful base for excursions
into the area. The most popular time to visit is between April and September. Although the Wet (the rainy season in the north) offers ethereal
thunderstorms and a magic carpet of wildflowers, rains make many watercourses impassable.
This route along the south-western coast of Victoria is one of the most spectacular coastal drives in the world. It winds around ragged cliffs, windswept beaches and tall bluffs, passing through lush rainforest and towering eucalypts. The most outstanding section is the Port Campbell National Park, which features an amazing collection of limestone sculptures, including the Twelve Apostles, London Bridge and Loch Ard Gorge. The other highlight is the section through the forests of the Otways Ranges, between Apollo Bay and Lorne. The best towns along the coast are the resort town of Lorne and the quaint, historic Port Fairy, west of Warrnambool. The road officially starts at Torquay and ends at Warrnambool, but the road follows the coast to Portland.
The Barossa Valley is arguably the best-known wine-producing region in Australia. The gently sloping valley in South Australia was settled in 1842 by German settlers fleeing religious persecution in Prussia and Silesia, and its distinct Germanic flavour remains. It's a beautiful, well-tended area with over 50 wineries, most of which encourage casual visits for tasting and cellar sales. To fully appreciate the area, get off the main road and take the narrow backroads between settlements. The central town is Tanunda. Adelaide is just over an hour's drive to the south-west. Note that the least scenic time to visit is between July and October, because the vines are heavily pruned during the winter months. The busiest months are from March to May when the grapes are harvested. There are several other wine-growing regions in the state, notably the south-eastern corner around Penola, Coonawarra and Padthaway; in the Clare Valley, north of the Barossa; and around McLaren Vale on the Fleurieu Peninsula.
Located in the south-western corner of New South Wales, the Snowy Mountains are the highest section of Australia's Great Dividing Range. Kosciusko National Park covers most of the mountains. It's NSW's largest park (6900 sq km/2690 sq mi), stretching from the Victorian border to the ACT. It includes all of the state's ski resorts, rugged alpine scenery, caves, glacial lakes and forests. Although its renowned as a winter playground, the park is also popular with bushwalkers in summer, when there are marvellous alpine wildflowers. The ski resorts include Thredbo, Perisher Valley, Smiggins Hole and Mt Blue Cow. Mt Kosciusko is the highest peak at 2228m (7308ft). The main town in the region is Jindabyne, situated just outside the park boundary on the edge of a beautiful lake.
 Getting There & Away
Virtually all visitors to Australia arrive by air. The main international
airports are Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, followed by Perth, Adelaide,
Hobart, Darwin and Cairns. There are plenty of connections to Asia, Europe
and the USA, but Australia's remoteness makes flights relatively expensive
and long. Australia's current international popularity also means that many
flights are heavily booked. Make plans well in advance. Departure tax on
international flights is US$19. This tax is collected by travel agents and
entered on your airline ticket.
 Getting Around
Australia is so vast (and so empty in places) that something like 80%
of long-distance trips by public transport are made by air. Qantas and Ansett
are the two main domestic carriers. Few people pay full fare for domestic
air travel because the airlines offer such a wide range of discounts, including
random discounting and air passes.
There are several long-distance bus companies but only one truly national
service, Greyhound Pioneer Australia. Buses are comfortable, but if you're
travelling between major cities, be prepared for a long trip. Australia
has a skeletal rail network linking all major cities except Darwin. Few
people travel long-distances by train because it's usually the slowest mode
of overland transport and remains relatively expensive. Many visitors group
together and hire or purchase a car. The latter can be an economical way
of travelling round Australia, as long as you don't have too many mechanical
failures. Highway 1 circumnavigates the continent, sticking close to the
coast much of the way. Watch out for monstrous road trains (trucks with
multiple trailers) on country roads; naturally it's wise to give way to
anything bigger than yourself.
Road
train in action (15K)
 Recommended Reading
- Manning Clark's A Short History of Australia is an accessible
and informative general history.
- Robert Hughes' bestseller The Fatal Shore is a harrowing account
of the convict era.
- The Songlines by Bruce Chatwin tells of his experiences among
central Australian Aborigines and provides an insightful appraisal of the
Dreamtime and the meaning of sacred songs and sites.
- Sean & David's Long Drive
by Sean Condon is a tale of two ill-equipped urban Australians who face
the vastness of their country with nothing but Neil Young and beer for
guidance. The book is part of Lonely Planet's new series of travel writing,
Journeys
- There is plenty of highly regarded Australian fiction, including the
work of Nobel Prize winner Patrick White, and Booker Prize winners Peter
Carey and Thomas Keneally. Other well known Australian writers include
Thea Astley, Robert Drewe, Helen Garner, Rodney Hall, Christina Stead,
Elizabeth Jolley, David Malouf, Frank Moorhouse and Tim Winton.
 Lonely Planet Guides
 Travellers' Reports
 On-line Info
|
Money & Costs
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
