AUSTRALIA

  • Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
  • Travel Tips
  • Moving About
  • Scams and Warnings
  • Gems, Highlights & Attractions
  • Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes

    Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

    Change of Address of the Australian Embassy in Spain:
    Embajada de Australia
    Plaza del Descubridor Diego de Ordßs 3-2a
    Edificio Santa Engracia 120
    28003 Madrid
    Phone: (91) 441 9300; fax: (91) 442 5362
    If coming in person, the entry is at Calle Santa Engracia no 120, next to the Fire Brigade Metro Rios Rosas.
    Australian Embassy, Spain (Aug 98)

    Western Australia is free of many pests and diseases found elsewhere in the world and other parts of Australia. To protect our agriculture and our natural environment some items must be declared at quarantine checkpoints. These items include:

  • Fresh fruit and vegetables;
  • Meat and dairy products;
  • Plants and flowers;
  • Seeds and nuts;
  • Honey;
  • Animals and birds; and
  • Used fruit and vegetable containers.
    Checkpoints are located at all major roads and rail into Western Australia and at seaports and airports. Detector dogs trained to sniff food items may also be present.
    John van Shagen - Quarantine & Export Advisor, WA Quarantine & Inspection Service, Australia (Feb 98)

    The New Zealand embassy in Edward Street, Brisbane closed mid-December and the closest place is now Sydney. The New Zealand embassy works with a courier company called Travcour.
    Anon (no date)

    You should note that the correct fax number for visa enquiries at the Australian High Commission in London is (0171) 465 8218. It is important that this is changed as the current fax number is located in another area of the High Commission. Therefore, it can not be guaranteed that visa enquiries faxed to that number will be forwarded on. You should also note that the Australian Consulate in Edinburgh closed a number of years ago.
    The Australian Government has introduced the Electronic Travel Authority which can be issued through travel agents or airlines. These travel authorities are available to people travelling on ETA-approved passports and airlines. For further information on the current worldwide status of the Electronic Travel Authority, you should contact Mr Martin Van der Hoek of the Entry Strategies Section, Australian Department of Immigration and Multicultural Affairs, Canberra, on (phone) (00) (612) 6264 4391 or (fax) (00) (612) 6264 1879.
    Angela Forsdyke - Australian High Commission, London (Nov 97)

    Travel Tips

    The Bed & Breakfast council of New South Wales has recently published the first Sydney and New South Wales Bed & Breakfast Accommodation Guide 1999-2000. About 180 B&Bs located throughout the state are listed, ranging in price from budget to luxury. All listed B&Bs comply with the B&B NSW Code of Conduct. The guide is available free from The Rocks Visitor Information Centre, the Sydney International Airport information desk and most of the regional tourist offices in New South Wales.
    Jeanne Harrison, Australia (Apr 99)

    If visitors are keen on seeing rural Australia, itÆs worth looking in the local papers for farm clearing sales. If you get an old farm there are all sorts of fascinating bits and pieces, farm machinery, cattle, poultry and household stuff to look at, plus plenty of interesting æpeople watchingÆ to do as itÆs a bit of an outing for all the local people.
    A good place to check out is Maidenwell, Queensland (east of the Bunya Mountains on the Nanango road) - nice pub and a great little swimming hole in a little national park a few km nearby (although watch out for broken glass). Ask in town for directions.
    Kerr Family, Australia (Apr 99)

    Sydney Ferries now produce a handy leaflet detailing a dozen or so walks around the harbour. I took the Manly to Spit Bridge walk, a distance of about 10 km through urban areas, bush, headlands and beaches with fine panoramic views of the harbour and heads.
    Mr J A Coombs, UK (Dec 98)

    Sadly, the East End market in Adelaide has gone, though the ambience of the East End has been maintained to some extent. New is the free city loop bus, which has on-board video and lots of tourist information, as well as driver commentary. It stops at or close to all the major attractions. Also new is an outdoor cafe in Victoria Square which is close to the magnificent Central Market. Tours of the market, including food tasting, are now available at low cost and are very popular. The Orange Lane Market is still going strong and the cafe scene has extended to Norwood Parade, around the market, and includes one of Adelaide's best Irish pubs. Shops are now open seven days a week in the city.
    Margaret, Australia (Dec 98)

    Brampton Island: day trips are no longer available from Mackay.

    Fraser Island: for two people or less, it is cheaper to fly from Hervey Bay and rent a 4WD there, than rent it from the mainland.

    You can get rid of rainforest leaches with a squirt of mosquito repellent; they drop off in seconds.

    Chris Seavell, UK (Dec 98)

    A good way to find your way around Sydney, and it's free: the bus information booth on York Street, outside the Queen Victoria Building, has free timetables, and inside you can find photocopies of the route the bus follows. They all nicely overlap, so if you ask how to get to Kings Cross, Bondi, Coogee and Newtown, you will have a great map.
    John Sanderson, UK (Dec 98)

    During the Grand-Prix weekend in Melbourne (first week of March), it is impossible to find accommodation. You should book in advance.
    Roy Wiesner, Israel (Dec 98)

    The State Library of Victoria has eight computers providing free internet and e-mail access for half an hour at a time. You can book at the front desk or by telephone (up to a week in advance) on:
    03 9669 9824/9825 or after hours on:
    03 9669 9811
    Mary Steer (Dec 98)

    Esperance: the noticeboard outside the CALM office gives up-to-date whale-watching information.

    In far-north Queensland, we were totally bamboozled by the number and variety of boat tours available. If you would rather snorkel than visit the islands, I definitely recommend one of the cheaper ($60-80), smaller boat trips, of which there are many. With these, you have up to five hours on the reef, unlike the more expensive ($120-130) large boats where you only have three hours on the reef and it is very rushed. We chose the later as we had small children, but the smaller, cheaper and longer boat trips seemed to be much better value.
    Liz Mitchell, Australia (Nov 98)

    Our strategy to avoid having to buy gas at really high prices was to use "dollar cost averaging." We bought a small amount of gas at every roadhouse, so we ended up paying an average price, rather than gambling on trying to get the cheapest gas possible. Along a road like the Nullarbor, for example, this works out nicely since it is usually a few hours between roadhouses.
    Arthur Schultz, Canada (Nov 98)

    There is strictly no camping at Lake Moondarra (a nice place to escape to from Mt Isa), even if you think that you have driven outside the actual park. We pitched our tent at a beautiful waterside spot well outside the gates, only to be rudely roused at night by a ranger shining his torch in our faces who asked us to pack up and leave.
    Malinda Quartel (Nov 98)

    We can recommend the VIP discount card. We were given discounts on transport (Greyhound Kilometre Pass), museums, cinemas and some accommodation.
    Helle Hansen & Karsten Mikkelsen, Denmark (Nov 98)

    If you are UK based and are travelling to Australia on a working holiday, I suggest you register for work with Select Connect before leaving the UK. They interview and assess you before you leave home, and fill you in on all the official stuff you need to know. When you arrive, all you need to do is give them a call and start working. You can email them at [connect@select.co.uk].
    Sian Williamson (Sep 98)

    Please note the following amendments to the LP Australia guide, Edition 9, relating to YHA affiliated hostels:
    p918: Port City Backpackers is not YHA affiliated. The Backpackers Inn Freo is the YHA affiliated hostel.
    p939: The 'Associate YHA hostel' at the Wilson Caravan Park is not YHA affiliated.
    p971: Backpackers Paradise is not a YHA affiliate.
    Jodie Gordon, State Marketing Manager, YHA (Sep 98)

    I have been studying English in Australia for eight months now and got a lot of information from a free information service called Education International. I found this information on the internet and they helped me to organise my study in Melbourne for one month. This company was very helpful, giving advice about many different schools and programmes throughout Australia. They also organised my homestay family - I learnt many things about the Australian life, living with this family.
    After I arrived in Melbourne, the workers from Education International helped me find another school in Brisbane and some accommodation in backpackers. Their help was free and I think it is a good service for all people who want to study or work in Australia because it is so difficult to find that information on the internet.
    I hope I can help other students like Education International helped me. The address is:
    PO Box 36, The Gap, Queensland 4061, Australia.
    Internet address:
    www.eduinter.com.au
    and email:
    info@eduinter.com.au
    Phone: (07) 3300 6303; fax: (07) 3300 6218.
    Akiko Marito (no date)

    Those of you travelling to Ayers Rock between July and November should book your accommodation a few weeks before rather than just rocking up and not being able to find accommodation. These are the busiest months of the year and all the hotels are nearly fully booked out. To book any hotel at the rock, go through their central reservations office on 1800 089 622.
    Isabella (Aug 98)

    Sydney: a fantastic way to see the wonderful harbour foreshores is to jump on a Manly ferry at Circular Quay and then bushwalk from Manly to the Spit. It's a well maintained (and used) track and there are plenty of beaches to stop at for a quick dip. Clontarf Beach is beautiful and has a toilet and kiosk for drinks (and great meat pies). Once you get to the Spit, why not pop in at one of the various sailing schools and hire a small sail boat to explore the beautiful bays in Middle Harbour. At Northside Sailing School you can hire a Laser for $35 for two hours. It's best to book ahead and you must be a reasonable sailor! The bus stop is right outside on Spit Road and there is a regular service to Wynard (in the city - York St).
    Matthew (Aug 98)

    There is a new big cinema complex in Adelaide. The 'Megaplex' in the Marion shopping centre has 30 screens, 5676 seats and many specials each week. They also offer concessions for students (international student identification works).
    For all people heading down the York Peninsula, the main tourist information for this region is now situated in Moonta, in the old railway station. It opens daily, except Christmas day, from 9am to 5pm. The friendly staff have excellent knowledge of the whole peninsula and the copper triangle. The tourist info in Kadina doesn't exist any more. In its place there is a radio station in the Town Hall.
    Robina von Kolczynski (May 98)

    Updated information regarding opening hours and admission fees of the National Gallery of Victoria:
    We have not charged for admission for about 18 months now; we only charge for special exhibitions such as the current 'Knights of Imperial Austria' which costs $10 for an adult. Student concession is normally $7. We are open every day from 10am until 5pm and when there is a major exhibition on, such as that mentioned above, we are open until 8.30pm on Wednesdays (the exception being the Australian rooms and the European rooms which close as normal at 5pm). The big problems we are experiencing with tourists, is Mondays. Most people seem to be under the impression that we are only free of charge on a Monday and thus they come on that day. However, the NGV is open only in a limited capacity on a Monday, the 2nd floor (which includes the European rooms and the Aboriginal gallery) being closed.
    Thus, our hours are:
    Daily: 10am - 5pm; closed Anzac Day until 1pm, Good Friday and Christmas Day. The 2nd floor (European and Aboriginal Galleries) is closed on Mondays.
    Free general admission.
    Free general tours by the voluntary guides:
    Mon - Fri: 11am, 12 noon, 2pm and 3pm.
    Sat: 2pm; Sun:11am and 2pm.
    Recorded Information Line, phone: 9208 0356
    Information Desk, phone: 9208 0220
    Photography is not permitted in the gallery.
    Colleen Boyle - Information Officer, NGV, Australia (Mar 98)

    Anyone staying in Melbourne for a substantial amount of time should buy the Age's Cheap Eats guide. This is a fantastic resource of tasty, cheap restaurants.
    Alexandra Saidy (Mar 98)

    If you are working in Australia, the government deducts a percentage of your wages towards a retirement fund, aka superannuation. Up until July 1997 it was possible to get this back upon leaving the country. Not any more. You cannot claim it back even if you're an Australian citizen leaving for good. So don't rely on the expectation of the extra cash for the trip onwards.
    Cris Best (Mar 98)

    Cris Best should check his facts! My English fiance worked in Brisbane for two different temping agencies. When her visa expired, she applied directly to her two superannuation funds for a refund and received two cheques within a couple of weeks of her applications. One was for A$160 and the other for A$195. The funds do, however, have a tendency to charge 'closing fees' as high as A$50! The funds wanted photocopies of her passport and air ticket (proof that she was leaving Oz), and both sent her a cheque in Australian dollars. One was sent to her UK address and the other to her Australian address. If you do not have a contact in Australia who can act on your behalf you may have some difficulties, as I'm not sure how you would go about trying to cash a cheque in A$ overseas. If you can't cash it, you will need someone in Oz to deposit the cheque on your behalf, then withdraw it and send you the money.
    Matt Murray - Australia (Jun 98)

    (Re the above discussion on superannuation in Australia). I worked in super in Australia and here's what the deal is: travellers were allowed to withdraw their super on the grounds of leaving Oz permanently but as of 1 July 1997, this provision was removed. Then, in December 1997, the government made a decision to allow people who were leaving up until 1 July 1998 to withdraw. Unfortunately this means that people who enquired between July 1997 and December 1997 were told they couldn't get it when it turned out they could have. One other thing to note is that if the balance of your super is under A$200 and is in a fund set up by your employer and you have left that employer then it can be withdrawn regardless of whether you are leaving Australia or not. Even if your super is over $200 though, it is a good idea to try to keep up to date with the latest legislation because it does change and you could be affected.
    Michelle, Australia (Sep 98)

    And another contribution to the superannuation story: æSuperÆ is NOT deducted by the government from your wages. It is paid by your employer over and above what they pay you at a rate of approximately 6 %. So even if you canÆt get it back when you leave, you are not losing out. You will, however, be able to get whatÆs left after fees, etc when you retire, as long as you keep them informed of your current details. It might not be much after 20 or 30 years of fees though!
    Amanda, UK (Apr 99)

    Western Australia: a new visitor's centre has been built in Northam containing a tourist bureau, cafΘ and a museum about the history of Northam and the Avon Valley. It is situated at the starting point of the Avon descent on the Avon River and also contains showering and tourist facilities for visitors. Phone: (08) 9622 2100
    The Avon Valley Arts Society has just started showing amateur productions and concerts. Address: PO Box 303, 33 Wellington Street, Northam WA 6401; Phone: (08) 9622 2245
    The Northern Swimming Pool now has open-air movie nights on the big screen (on Saturdays).
    Chris Peach - Australia (Mar 98)

    Victoria, Healesville: directly near the sanctuary there is a koori cultural centre, which opened one year ago. The building and surrounding park are beautiful, people very friendly and information excellent. It is similar to the Brambuk Cultural Centre in Halls Gap (the Grampians). My impression was that they need more visitors. People don't know yet that there is this centre in Healesville. The name is: Galeena Beek, Living Cultural Centre, 22-24 Glen Eadie Avenue, Healsville, 3777; Phone: (03) 5962 1119. Open seven days, 10am to 6pm.
    Charlott L÷bsack - Germany (Feb 98)

    Apart from those earning cash-in-hand, people working on a working holiday visa will be more than aware of the large amount of tax deducted from their wages (29%). I have heard conflicting opinions on whether you can claim this back although according to the person I asked in the tax office, you can't. Luckily I have been advised of an agency that can deal with your wages and charge no tax. They take a cut of 13% commission but as this still leaves you with 16% more money each week, it's a small price to pay. The only other drawback is that you don't get overtime rates but despite this, I still found myself $100 better off each week. They assign you a personal financial adviser and you don't even have to leave your current employment agency. The company I'm with is called Free Spirit International. Phone: (02) 9954 0350.
    Seonaid Rait - UK (Jan 98)

    (In Melbourne) there is a free circle line tram, one clockwise and the other anticlockwise about every ten minutes which goes round the core of the shopping district and museum area.
    In China Town, look out for the Australian Institute of Archaeology Museum, Little Bourke St, which houses a substantial collection of Petries' Egyptian finds and much material from Iraq and Israel. Lecture programme there and a good replica service as well as a number of publications and slides. A hidden gem.
    Iain Mackay - UK (Jan 98)

    In Perth, Sydney and Brisbane you can draw cash from bank "holes-in-the-wall" using a Switch card that has the CIRRUS symbol on the card. This is very useful: we have done our whole trip using this system. The charges are very low, better than credit card advances or travellers cheques.
    Yvonne Pickering - UK (Jan 98)

    A great place to check Email, faxes etc: Global Grapevine, at 68 Aberdeen St, Northbridge, WA.
    Godfrey Guinan - UK (Jan 98)

    I am in Sydney and have found a great shop: Global Gossip, 770 George St, Sydney. Very cheap world calls, internet and email connections, phone cards, word processing, photocopying, mailboxes, and MORE. They always make you feel special, and give you all the help you need. They've only been open since Christmas Eve.
    Sarah Dickens (Jan 98)

    Places which have internet connections; cost:
    Port Augusta: Library; 1 hour free.
    Adelaide: Library(state); 1 hour free.
    Victor Harbour: Library; free.
    Murray Bridge: Library; free.
    Melbourne: Internet CafΘ, Melbourne Station, $5 for 30 minutes.
    Darwin: State Library; Student Uni Travel, 15 minutes free; Cyclone CafΘ, Urquhart St, 1 hour $12.50.
    Alice Springs: Library; $2 for 1/2 hour.
    Leongatha: Library; free.
    Sale: Library; free.
    Canberra: Library; free.
    Sydney: South Sydney Library, Kings Cross; free.
    (Prices from Dec 97/Jan 98)
    Hilde Kamminga - The Netherlands (Jan 98)

    A FREE internet access cafΘ/bar/gallery in cosmopolitan Brunswick Street, Melbourne. Binary Bar: 243 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Melbourne. Open 5pm until 1am.
    Martina (Dec 97)

    Queensland: the Gondwana Rainforest sanctuary in Southbank, Brisbane was to close at the end of 1997. It has been decided to replace this fascinating attraction with a new 'Cultural Centre'. I visited last week and the sanctuary is currently thriving, with very successful breeding programmes for a number of species. The staff only found out about the closure two weeks ago! For further details try the Brisbane City Council.
    Richard Adams - Australia (Dec 97)

    Critical Mass is an event which occurs on the last Friday of every month in many cities around the world and involves hundreds of cyclists, roller bladers, skate boarders, etc., taking to the streets in a celebration of human powered vehicles. It is very exciting and festive and I believe would be of interest to people visiting Australia. It occurs in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Newcastle, Canberra, Hobart and possibly more, and in Sydney attracts over 400 people.
    Robert Passey (Nov 97)

    Northern Territory: so many backpackers complain that they do not have the opportunity to meet and talk with Aboriginal people while visiting Australia. If you get to Alice Springs, why not pop into the Arrernte Aboriginal owned cultural centre where they have a tour going out every morning with six people and usually three Aboriginal guides. They also have a Didgeridoo University. In 1997 they won the Australian Tourism Award for Aboriginal tours.
    (http://aboriginalart.com.au).
    Colin Cowell (Nov 97)

    For people looking for work in Australia, a lot of out of the way places depend on seasonal trends for employment prospects. However, there is hope! Something I discovered and have found extremely useful was getting signed up with a temp agency in whatever city you arrive in. Most of them are big enough that they have branches in other cities also and therefore when you're ready to move on, you can make a few more bucks in the next spot. Most of them don't require a contract so you're pretty free to come and go as you like.
    Tricia Bauman (Nov 97)

    There is no way you can camp on Great Keppel Island, Queensland, anymore - you even get moved on if you try and sleep on the beach!
    Sian Mackenzie - UK (Nov 97)

    Northern Territory: I would encourage people to see the Aboriginal Cultural Centre in the park before they go to Uluru (Ayers Rock) because it will give them a better idea of what they're seeing, and help them make a more educated decision on whether or not they want to climb. If it's one or the other, I'd recommend the base walk - I heard the climb's good, but the base walk has some beautiful spots and you get to see how the Aboriginal people's story of Liru and Kuniya is reflected on the rock.
    Amy Reiter (Oct 97)

    You mentioned Lizard Island, Queensland, only briefly (as it is an unusual budget traveller stopover), so I would like to tell you about the volunteer program on Lizard Island Research Station. In exchange for four hours work a day (ranging from trimming palm trees to being a dive buddy for the researchers), you receive free accommodation and free scuba diving/snorkelling on the many accessible reefs surrounding the island. I had and incredible time... the staff are amazing and the island almost completely unspoilt. The only cost is food and the flight but travellers could possibly combine a dive trip from Cairns to the island and arrange to get picked up later depending on your stay (average 2 to 4 weeks). Contact Lyle Vail (co-director) at Lizard Island Research Station, PMB 37, Cairns QLD. Phone: (070) 603 977.
    Ben Milne - Australia (no date)

    Moving About

    Canberra: I found out that bus No 901 is not going any more (p192 of the guide); the same for bus No 904. The only way to go, for example, to the Telstra Tower by bus, is on the æCanberra ExplorerÆ. They drop you at a tourist attraction and pick you up two hours later to drop you at the next place. Full day passes cost $18/$15 for adults/children and concessions. Half-day, two-day and three-day passes are also available. Tel: 13 22 51
    Laura Zentveld & Juliana van Stolbergstraat, Holland (Apr 99)

    Darwin has an excellent new transport alternative called the 'City Shuttle'; 24 hours a day, anywhere in the CBD and nearby. You call 8985 3666 and within a few minutes there is a minibus that will take you anywhere in the central area for $2 - taxi at bus price!
    PΣr Lindstr÷m, Sweden (Jan 99)

    Given the long distances, the Greyhound Bus proved a cheap and reliable alternative to driving. However, demand in peak backpacker season of June and July outweighs supply on the one bus a day so booking ahead becomes a must. To make matters worse, the smaller capacity connecting buses to the main coastal stops of Cervantes, Kalbarri, Monkey Mia, Coral Bay and Exmouth only run every two days. Having got to Coral Bay we found that although we could continue up to Exmouth, we couldn't get a bus out again for a week. We ended up forgetting Exmouth and still having to backtrack to Carnavon on a different service to meet with the main North bound service, as the more convenient connecting bus to Minilya Roadhouse was full. We now consider ourselves lucky having subsequently met a couple who were stranded in Exmouth for three weeks!
    Leesa Yeo & Chris Peake (Feb 99)

    Broome, Western Australia: the Greyhound Bus Terminal/Office is now in the tourist centre, and therefore at the other end of town to where it's listed in the LP.
    Maire O'Connor (Jan 99)

    Tasmanian Redline Coaches no longer operates a service on the Queenstown-Hobart highway. Tasmanian Wilderness Travel (expensive) seems to be the only operator on this route now, and the only way to get from, for example, Lake St Clair to Hobart by public transport. When we were there this service was booked out days in advance at the height of the hiking season, so beware!
    TRC also no longer operates a minibus from Launceston to/from the airport. Tasmanian Wilderness Travel does this service now, and the one-way fare is $7.
    Marcus Ogden, Australia (Jan 99)

    Travel passes are the best way to get around Sydney cheaply if you are there for more than three days or take more than ten trips on the public transport system. The Green Travel Pass enables you to go to almost all places of interest and costs only $29 for an unlimited number of trips within the green zone for one week.

    When travelling around Australia on the Greyhound Pioneer Express during the off-peak season, remember to plan your trip in advance and always ask the counter staff for half-priced tickets. One of my fellow travellers had the opportunity to travel from Adelaide to Sydney on a half-priced ticket when he booked his ticket one week in advance. I checked with the counter staff and was told that such tickets are available on certain days but their number is limited. If travelling between Sydney and Melbourne, you may break your journey at Canberra for up to six days without incurring an extra charge if you inform the counter staff at the time of booking. Most junior counter staff do not know this and will often quote you the price for two separate sectors which costs more. Therefore, always check with senior staff. Also, if you want a window seat, be sure to make your preference known when you buy your ticket.
    Tang Huihong, Singapore (Nov 98)

    King's Canyon to Alice Springs: we took the Ernest Giles highway in an old Ford station wagon ('78), despite the alarming red warning signs at each end of the road. However, I did ask the locals beforehand, and found out that the weather conditions (rain) must be taken into consideration very carefully. After all, this is the Outback and on this stretch of 100km road we only came across four other vehicles the whole time - the first one being an identical Ford Falcon coming from the other way, so we knew we could make it!
    Malinda Quartel (Nov 98)

    Getting to Perth beaches: buses running to the northern beaches (929) only run on weekends, school holidays and public holidays.
    Liz Power (Jun 98)

    Queensland: the North Stradbroke Coach Service was no longer available. I took the train and then a ferry over.
    Alexandra Saidy (Mar 98)

    Western Australia, Minilya to Karratha: on page 262 of your guide it states "from Minilya it is about 110km north to the dirt road that heads west to Giralia Station." This road is now sealed: this is important because as your book states, this is a short cut to drive north up the North-West Coastal Highway, and non-4WD hired vehicles are prohibited from travelling on dirt.
    David M Brice - UK (Mar 98)

    Here's a tip if you're driving (across the Nullarbor Plain). Get some jerry cans and fill up somewhere back near Adelaide, even if you pay 85c/litre, that's cheap compared to out on the plain. At the Border Village and Eucla, I paid 95-98c/litre. But at Madura it was $1.08/litre, and I can tell you I was more than a little shocked. The fact that the price can jump 10c/litre within less than 100kms has to be seen to be believed.
    Craig Birch - Australia (Mar 98)

    If you have bought a car and travelling around Australia you can buy a 'pass' for A$60 which you stick on the front window of your car. This pass lets you access all National Parks in Australia (otherwise you will pay A$15 per person per park). Try and get this pass in Sydney as you cannot buy it at Ayers Rock, but you can buy it in Kakadu National Park!
    Caroline Kennedy (Feb 98)

    Fares for the Spirit of Tasmania: minimum one-way costs for accompanied motor vehicles used to be A$125. Now, most of the motor vehicle charges attract a Commonwealth subsidy as part of the Federal Government's policy of helping Tasmania stimulate tourist dollars to prop up its ailing state economy. The actual minimum cost for cars up to five metres in length is A$30. I'm going next week and my Toyota camper is 5.14 metres, so I pay A$55 each way. The rest is Commonwealth subsidy. As you can see it's a significant help to the traveller.
    Bruce Webster (Feb 98)

    Queensland: we found that the little train that connects Croyden to Normanton, Queensland, was a good deal for the money as they will also transport your car for a nominal fee allowing you to bypass some unsealed bit of highway. They do not advertise this, but the tourist information in Mount Isa has their phone number. It saved us two days travel to do this.
    Bill Hines (Feb 98)

    Western Australia: the City Clipper free buses in Perth have been replaced by the Central Area Transit (CAT) buses, which have either a blue or red cat on the side. The blue runs north to south every 7.5 minutes, and the red cat runs east to west every 5 minutes. They're still free and have a 'voice' which tells you where you are and which stop is next.
    Rachel Sant - UK (Nov 97)

    Scams & Warnings

    Sydney: this has been a bad year for surf drownings. Please remember to *swim between the flags*. Rips are common and are invisible to the untrained eye.
    Richard Ure (May 99)

    WilsonÆs Promontory, Victoria: you need to know that as of 1 January 1999 you can no longer drink the water at the campsites without first boiling it for a minimum of one minute, so stoves need to be carried.
    C P Hollis, UK (Apr 99)

    Fraser Island, Queensland: people should not feed and not play with the dingoes on Fraser Island. This has been happening and recently the wild dogs have become increasingly brazen, stalking people in packs. Children are at risk of being attacked. It's a beautiful place but make sure you carry a big stick.
    Andrew Kane (Feb 99)

    Rottnest Island, Western Australia: if you choose to camp on Rottnest Island, do not leave any valuables in your tent. The night we were there, six tents/chalets got robbed and the local police proved totally useless (a real waste of tax payers money). It's probably even better not to lock your tent, so you'll avoid your tent being cut open with a knife.
    Philippe Quix, Belgium (Dec 98)

    For Fraser Island, in addition to mosquitoes and horse flies, I would add a warning about the dingos as we had a few problems with them. They will steal anything they can carry away, including sleeping bags, water bottles, tent components etc. There are plenty on the island and they are completely unafraid of people and will come right up to you.
    Krista Dalby - Canada (Dec 97)

    Ross River Virus, carried by mosquitoes: care and precautions need to be taken to prevent catching this very debilitating disease. Its rise in numbers of victims was in the newspapers when we were there last January. Also, my seven year old son was the unlucky victim of scrub-typhus which is mostly a problem in Litchfield National Park. It is caused by a mite which bit my son on his foot. Although my son ended up in hospital for a week in extreme pain from bowel spasms, etc, I was told that children only get a mild form. Adults have died from it if medical treatment isn't sought. First hand information on these health hazards can be obtained from: Menzies School of Health and Research, Royal Darwin Hospital, Rocklands Drive, Tiwi.
    Phone: (08) 8922 8196; Fax: (08) 8927 5187.
    Ruth Baggs - Australia (Oct 97)

    Gems, Highlights & Attractions

    The thirteenth Laura Aboriginal Dance and Cultural Festival (Queensland) will be held between 18 and 20 June 1999 at the Ang-gnarra Festival Ground near Laura, 300 km north of Cairns. The theme of this yearÆs festival is æCare & Respect for EldersÆ. Ang-gnarra Aboriginal Corporation will again be hosts to almost 1000 performers and artists from 25 Cape York and Gulf Aboriginal communities who will travel to Laura to perform traditional dance, music and song and to display traditional arts and crafts.

    The Laura Festival is a biennial gathering of Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal people and is held at the traditional bora ground on the Laura River. The rock shelters in the surrounding sandstone escarpments that reverberate with music and song, also house the renowned Quinkan Rock Art galleries. Ang-gnarra guides will offer walking tours to the Split Rock and Giant Horse Galleries before, during and after the festival. Traditional sports such as spearthrowing and the didgeridoo competition will again feature at the festival.

    This is a camping weekend so all equipment needs to be brought. There is water, toilets, showers, electricity and firewood on site. A large variety of food will be available from stalls at the festival. Transport ex Cairns will be available and tours have been organised for those without camping gear. Tickets will be available before the festival at Ticketlink and other outlets.

    For further information, contact Ang-gnarra Aboriginal Corporation:
    tel: (07) 4060 3200;
    fax: (07) 4060 3233;
    email: agnarra@internetnorth.com.au;
    Web page: http://www.qantm.com.au/laura/
    Ang-gnarra Aboriginal Corporation (Mar 99)

    Mallacoota, Victoria: probably one of the best walking tracks would have to be to Genoa Peak, about two km from the Mallacoota turn-off heading west. Drive as far as you can along the unsealed, although decent track and from there it is about a two hour return walk. Make sure that you have good walking shoes (as some climbing is involved), some drinks and try to go on a clear day. From the top of Genoa Peak you can see the lakes and the coast and I would venture to say that it would have to be one of the best views in Eastern Australia.
    David Tognarini & Kate Cholewka, Australia (Mar 99)

    Just to confirm the bridge walk in Sydney is $98 and really is a highlight while in Sydney. The three hour walk in the spaceman suit is not at all energetic and some of the views are fantastic. The best walk is the last one of the day as you get the photo with a good shot of the opera house. Even if you are scared of heights, it's OK as you feel so safe. When in Sydney, it's a must do.
    Lee Snowden, UK (Mar 99)

    In Canberra, the best thing to do on weekends is VISIT A MARKET. Canberra has wonderful markets but you don't see many tourists in them because they don't know where they are. The best are:
    Gormon House (Braddon, behind Civic) Saturday 10-4pm with clothes, crafts, old wares, natural soaps and perfumes, organic vegetables, Asian food, jewellery.
    The Hall Markets, Hall village on the outskirts of Canberra, Barton Highway (Yass Rd). This, on the first Sunday of every month 9-4pm is billed as the biggest craft market in the southern hemisphere. Something here for every one.
    The Bus Depot Markets (Wentworth Avenue, Kingston) Sundays 10-4pm. New, undercover, everything is quality from the Batlow apples to the ceramics.
    Trash and Treasure (Jamison Centre car part, Belconnen), this is a very big 'flea market'. There are other markets but these are the best.
    Wendy Macklin, Australia (Feb 99)

    Dorrigo, New South Wales: if you have any interest at all in the natural world, you cannot help but be moved by Dorrigo. The landscape on the actual plateau takes you on a dream tour through Ireland or somewhere green and temperate and then you eventually reach the tropical forest. The information centre is brilliant and the purpose-built walking paths are excellent. I spent four hours on the 'Never Never' trail without meeting another soul. The guide map (A4 photocopy of a rough diagram) was so accurate that I never felt in danger of becoming lost.
    Useful tip: ask at the info centre if any school parties have embarked on any of the standard walks. If so, choose another path.
    Danny Byrne, UK (Jan 99)

    One of the important things to visit in Adelaide is the 'Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute'. It is located right in the centre and a block away from the Rundle St restaurant area. You will find changing large exhibitions, a good shop, cafe, frequent theatrical performances and there is a daily didjeridu performance at 12 noon.
    253 Grenfell St
    Adelaide, South Australia, 5000
    Tel: 8224 3200; fax: 8224 3250; email: tandanya@tandanya.on.net
    www.webmedia.com.au/tandanya
    PΣr Lindstr÷m, Sweden (Jan 99)

    Savannahlander Train, Queensland: this is an excellent way to visit the remote pioneering mining settlements of Mount Surprise, Einasleigh, Forsayth and the landscapes of the eastern Gulf Savannah, with the train driver running to an 'as the journey goes' schedule, slowing and stopping along the way for photo opportunities whether they be for the fascinating wildlife, unique geological formations or hisotirc landmarks beside the 90 year old line that took 500 men and three years to build.

    This is now a four-day trip, leaving Cairns (with numerous pick-up points through to Dimbulah) each Wednesday at 6.30 am. The first night the train stops at Almaden, with visitors given the choice of staying in Almaden or taking a connecting minibus to stay overnight at the old mining settlement of Chilligoe and visit the limestone caves, the remains of the Chilligoe smelters and town museum. The second night is spent at the end of the line in Forsayth, and the last night the train stops at Mount Surprise with a connecting coach to stay overnight at Undara with a tour around the Undara Tubes, the largest and longest lava tubes in the world. The train returns to Cairns at 6.40 pm on Saturday.
    John Medley, UK (Jan 99)

    A place not to miss: the Eagles Heritage Raptor Wildlife Centre near Margaret River, Western Australia. If you like birds then this place is an absolute must. They get between 200 and 300 birds a year which have been injured in some way and most are rehabilitated and returned to the wild. You can see birds of prey in free-flight and even have the chance to have a bird of prey sit on your arm. The talk given by the gentleman who 'flies' the birds is both informative and fascinating. Like most people who really believe in what they are doing, his dedication shines through.
    Sylvia van der Peet, Australia (Jan 99)

    In Sydney, there is a major new attraction (since October): the Bridgewalk. You can climb right to the summit of the Harbour Bridge in guided parties of 10. It takes about three hours, and the cost is $98, which includes a group photo taken at the summit. The guide takes individual photos too, more or less to order and since he has a digital camera you can check straight away whether it has come out OK, and if not, have another shot taken. Then at the bottom, they unload the photos and you can view them on the TV screen before ordering copies (at an extra charge, of course).

    The safety precautions are very stringent. You are given a special 'Star Trek' spacesuit to wear over your ordinary clothes, and have to leave behind everything portable except spectacles. So no personal cameras to bypass the official one. (The rule is so as to avoid objects getting dropped on the traffic below). At all times while on the bridge you are attached to a safety cable, so that the most you can fall is a few feet. You have to sign a release document to declare you are fit to do the climb and take full responsibility for accidents. They even breathalyse you, so no pub lunch before the trip!

    Bridgeclimb is at 5 Cumberland St, at the far end of The Rocks underneath the southern approach road of the bridge (tel: 9252 0077), but there are leaflets all over town and you can also book through hotels. They also have a website at [www.bridgeclimb.com]. This was the highlight of my visit.
    Alan Hakim, UK (Jan 99)

    The best thing I saw in Western Australia was the Karinjini National Park, about 350 kilometres south of Port Headland. It took me about seven hours to get there from Exmouth, but it was worth every minute. The gorges there are magnificent, and after travelling through some of the hottest country on the planet, the contrast is amazing: steep, narrow gorges with small, cold streams running through them, with lots of plants and animals. And you don't have to share it with a lot of people - I was there in July, the peak tourist season, and there were less than 50 people in the park. The scenery on the way in and out is also spectacular.
    Michael Moylan, Australia (Dec 98)

    Visitors to south-east Australia should not miss the opportunity to go to Kangaroo Island. An hour's ferry ride from the mainland, it is more than worth the trip. The small island hosts a large population of koalas, wallabies, echidnas, possums and kangaroos. We camped right alongside all of these creatures; they would be outside the tent in the morning. It also has a seal bay (a remarkable site of endangered seals), little Sahara (a mass of white sand dunes), beautiful eroded rocks, and a eucalyptus oil factory. The island is unfortunately difficult to get around on, so you will either have to bring a bike or a car over from the mainland, or take one of the many adventure tours which cover all of the attractions. I highly recommend finding your own transport, if possible. Kangaroo Island should not be missed.
    T Davies, Canada (Nov 98)

    Tennants Creek: we went on the Aboriginal Women's Bush Tour which was a great success. The tour is no longer run by several women, but by one - Nancy. She takes you to her property on which she has some cows, emus and kangaroos. Then she takes you on a bush walk and teaches you what you can and cannot eat - yes, witchetty grubs when cooked over the fire taste like french fries and they don't kill you! She also makes billy tea and a most delicious damper. Learning how to handle a bull whip and throw a boomerang was also part of the programme.
    Malinda Quartel (Nov 98)

    Mary Valley Station, Queensland: 43km south of Musgrave is the turn-off to Mary Valley Station and the homestead is 6km down this track. About 1km from the homestead is one of the largest colonies of Little Red Flying Foxes. This was indeed the highlight of our trip. The number of bats is estimated at between two to 11 million, depending on who you listen to. It is only a short walk in the bush before you start to hear their squeals and then see them. As they spot you, it will turn into a cacophony. As dusk approaches, the Little Red Flying Foxes leave their colony in search of food. The sky is darkened by their numbers. No one in this part of the country should miss this sight.
    Bob Fletcher, Australia (Sep 98)

    Any travellers wanting a guarantee of seeing kangaroos in the wild should go to Namadgi National Park, south-west of Canberra. Entry to the park is free, and the best time to go is an hour or so before sunset. These animals in the wild are an amazing sight in beautiful unspoilt surroundings.
    Simon Martin, UK (Sep 98)

    King Island, a rugged little island in between the Australian mainland and Tasmania, is where you'll find an escape from the rest of the world. Totally deserted beaches are common, as are wild surfing spots and the very friendly locals make you feel totally at home. It would not be uncommon to be invited out fishing by a local and to be treated as if you've lived there for years. Unforgettable! And the food - there's nothing else like it! Take a risk and stray from the ordinary and over-photographed sights of Australia. You won't regret it.
    Kate Stubbs (Sep 98)

    Stargazing in Coober Pedy: when I was in Coober Pedy a few weeks back I spent a very interesting, educational and entertaining two hours out in the desert looking at and learning about the stars. The tours are run by a witty guy called Martin through Radekas hostel, are reasonably priced and he even brings along a cask of wine. Having been brought up in the UK I was fascinated to learn about stars that we do not even see!
    Tracy, The Thorn Tree (Aug 98)

    A great day (or overnight trip if camping) from Sydney is to The Basin, which is part of the Kurringai National Park. From the city take a 190 bus from Wynard to the wharf at Palm Beach (opposite the fish & chip shop, not on the surf side), and then it's an hour's trip to The Basin by ferry. There are great spots for camping and a lovely inlet to swim in. Ask the rangers about Aboriginal rock paintings and the excellent walks in the area. There is a YHA hostel at Church Point, close to The Basin.
    Hayley Amanda (Aug 98)

    'Blues at Bridgetown': this music festival is held in Bridgetown in the south-west of Western Australia for three days over the second weekend in November every year. You can buy a weekend pass (approximately A$60), a day pass or just go along to the free concerts that are held in the streets. The whole town buzzes with blues music, creating a great atmosphere.
    Deb & Phil (no date)

    I've been staying at Finch Hatton Gorge, 50km west of Mackay, Queensland. The beauty of this place has stunned me, yet so many backpackers seem to miss out on it by passing through Mackay en route to Airlie Beach. There's a walking track to the Araluen Falls and Wheel of Fire Falls which are both spectacular and provide great places for swimming.
    Sarah Tarkenton (Jul 98)

    On the highway from Miena to Bothwell (Tasmania), we came across a cleared glade with a ring of sculptures known as the Steppes Stones. They depicted wildlife and a range of indigenous and European people involved in the development of the area. A lovely surprise in the middle of the forest.
    Fiona Wallace - Australia (Jun 98)

    Canberra, National Motorcycle Museum: just west off Northbourne Ave as you enter the city limits. It has over 170 delightful antique, classic and memorable motorcycles from around the globe. Admission is A$8 and well worth it for motorcycle aficionados.
    Doug Durst - Canada (Mar 98)

    I have just returned home to the US after visiting Oz, and by far the best place I experienced was the less well known of the capital cities - Adelaide. This is Australia's most beautiful city (puts Sydney & Melbourne to shame), with the coolest cafe scene (Rundle Road) of any city in the world I have encountered. The people were as hip as Sydney/Melbourne, but were more relaxed, and much friendlier. There is beautiful outback type scenery short distances from the city centre, and you could take a bus from winery to winery (Australia's premier wine district is near Adelaide), gettingf totally wasted on some of the worlds finest wines! Make sure Adelaide, South Australia is on your itinerary if you are coming to Australia!
    Templeton - The Thorn Tree (Mar 98)

    Sydney has finally caught up to Europe and now has legalised three nudist beaches on Sydney Harbour. One is Lady Bay Beach at Watson's Bay, situated near the Gap at South Head. The other two nudist beaches are at Middle Head, Mosman. One is Obelisk Beach, which tends to be mostly gay. The other beach is Cobblers Beach and this is pretty much a family beach with a mixture of couples and single people. To access this beach, go to the far end of Middle Head Road, Mosman, past HMAS Penguin Naval Base. On the left you will see a cricket oval: walk around the left hand side of the white fence, until you come to the track that leads down to the beach. There is a great naturist website that gives details on all of New South Wales' naturist beaches: www.aswm.com.au/freebeachnsw
    It's well worth a visit.
    Bob Reed (Mar 98)

    Sydney: there was a lot to see and do in Sydney, but the few things we would highly recommend are walking across the bay bridge and climbing the north-west pillar (some nominal fee like A$2), and visiting the nude beach at Lady Bay. In fact, Lady Bay was one of the better nude beaches we had been to anywhere in the world, and the water was nice. From Kings Cross, take the 324 or 325 to Watson's Bay and then walk up to the beach.
    Mark Foley - USA (no date)

    Correction to the above: it's actually the south-east pylon that's open for climbing on the bay bridge.
    Brian Peck, Australia (Aug 98)

    The Alice Springs Desert Park (opened March '97) is well worth a visit. There is a 1.6km walk through desert habitats featuring native desert plants and animals. This park features an exhibition centre, birds of prey display, nocturnal house, Coolamon cafΘ and Madigan's Restaurant. It is very easy to spend a full day here.
    Sound of Starlight Theatre: for people who enjoy the didgeridoo, this is the place to go. Andrew Langford and co make this a magical performance using sound, light and slides to capture the rhythm and spirit of Australia. Andrew is an expert didge player who literally makes the didge talk. Absolutely brilliant.
    Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park: this is now located at Kamerunga Road, Caraonica Lakes just next to the Skyrail Terminal. This is owned and operated by the Tjapukai communities and is absolutely brilliant. The complex includes a gallery, restaurant, cafΘ, snack bar, creation theatre, Magic Space, history theatre, the Tjapukai Dance theatre and traditional camp where visitors may participate with the aboriginal community learning about bush food and medicine, spear and boomerang throwing and didgeridoo playing.
    Dee Barnett - Australia (Feb 98)

    New South Wales: while in Broken Hill I spent one day following the City Heritage Trail. Included on the suggested itinerary of the trail was a visit to 'Photographic Recollections', a museum which provides an insight into the history of the area, including mining developments, the regeneration programme and social history, through photographs and brief summations. I spent one and a half hours wandering around reading the short and interesting summations and looking at the incredible variety of photos, and could easily have spent longer if time had allowed. It summed up all that I needed to know to understand Broken Hill, and all that I was curious to find out, in an interesting and informative way. The museum is located at the Central Power Station on Eyre St (Phone: (08) 8087 9322), and is open from 10am to 4.30pm, Monday to Friday and 1 to 4.30pm on Saturday and Sunday. The entry fee is A$3 for adults and 50 cents for children (a bargain!)
    After visiting most of the museums in the area, I found 'Photographic Recollections' to be the best visit, and advise that people allow themselves at least one and a half hours to look through.
    Sally McGunnigle - New Zealand (Feb 98)

    Tasmania: the second most visited place in Victoria is the Penguin Parade on Phillip Island, 70km from Melbourne. However, a penguin parade can also be seen in Tasmania, in the town of Penguin, close to Devonport, and also in Stanley.
    Pierluigi Fracasso (Nov 97)

    New South Wales: before or after visiting Byron Bay, stop off at Murwillumbah and go climb Mount Warning. I did the walk for sunrise - it gets the first sunlight for mainland Oz and it was out of this world! I stayed at the caravan site 'near' the start of the walk (it's 3km away). It's cheap when it's shared between backpackers. We did it in June 1997, leaving at 3am and managed to get lifts with others doing the walk to the start. Take a torch, with spare batteries and start the climb under the rainforest canopy in pitch darkness. There are loads of tree roots and rocks to stumble on, so take that torch! We got to the top at around 6am, just in time for sunrise and the view was great, looking over the Pacific and Cape Byron. You get to see the rainforest on the way down and if it rains it will blow you away! It did for me and WOW, better than Cape Tribulation anytime!
    Alistair Kelly (Oct 97)

    South Australia: there is now a Whale Watching Centre along the Nullarbor, situated between Yalata and the Nullarbor Road House, 70km from Yalata and 20km from the Road House. We observed about 15 whales playing very close to the coast line.
    Mrs H Van Der Loo - Australia (Oct 97)

    Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes

    Extract from an account of hiking the Overland Track, Tasmania:
    Rain fell during the night and it continued all day. We reached deep into our packs for our waterproof pants, pack liner, pack cover and Goretex jacket. We were wondering only the night before why we included such rarely used items. Hikers plunged out of the door like scuba divers jumping in the deep. We got underway at 8.30 am.

    The ground is permanently saturated on the track and most rain runs off. Before long the track became a water course and stream crossings became very dangerous. Frog Flats was flooded and we had to wade through knee deep water. ChrisÆ camera was the first casualty. It became waterlogged and did not operate for the remainder of the trip.

    We lumbered on, the rain penetrating our very soul. At last we approached Pelion Hut. We were looking forward to a hot lunch and drying off. As we opened the door we were devastated to discover that there was standing room only. A group of college students had taken over the premises. It would be impossible to find a space to lay down for the night. We cooked some soup on the edge of the table and stood about in squelching boots deciding what to do. Leeches were crawling up through the floor boards and feasting on a cocktail of various blood types. Our dilemma was to set up our tent in the rain or hike another 8 km to Kia Ora Hut. It was getting late - 4.50 pm. We decided on the latter option.

    Pelion Pass was quite steep causing us to clamber and slip over exposed rocks and roots. The isolated plateau at the top is clothed in heath and ancient King Billy Pines, some thousands of years old. Many bear the scars of a bush fire that swept through the area early this century. The wind was strong and the rain continued with flurries of snow. Chris wanted to camp here and climb Mt Ossa (the highest peak) in the morning but the weather was too severe.

    The track descended into Pinestone Valley. The wet mountains glistened in the late evening light. My old army boots need to take their discharge - I skidded many times on the wet boardwalk. After a 22km soggy hike that day we finally reached Kia Ora Hut at 7.30 pm, just as it was getting dark.

    The hut was packed with sodden hikers. Every available rafter or piece of string had wet clothing hanging from it. A mountain of wet boots were stacked around the fire. The humidity was heavy, nothing could dry in this atmosphere. We wandered about looking for a place on the sleeping shelves to lay our bags out. A narrow space was found; other hikers came and adjusted their belongings to make room for us.

    I found it fascinating to watch other hikers cooking up their culinary delights. A variety of stoves were used - metho, petrol and gas. Some people were gingerly experimenting with their cooking apparatus for the first time. My modified metho stove flared up wildly and startled other bush chefs beside me. Our meals became a little monotonous, usually pasta or rice dishes. Other hikers were amused by our four loaves of rye bread. They weighed one kg each. The bread became stale and crumbly but tasted so good toasted on the coal fire and topped with peanut butter, cheese or jam. One man with a bushy beard cooked up falafel and exotic dishes to impress his Swedish girlfriend. A lone Japanese Hiker carried fresh potatoes and rice.
    John Ward, Australia (Mar 99)


    For detailed up-to-date travel information check out Lonely Planet's Destination Australia.


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