DESTINATION TASMANIA

Tasmania's status as Australia's only island state has been a major influence on its historical, cultural and geographical development. Originally known as Van Diemen's Land, it was established as a separate penal settlement, isolated from the colony at Sydney Cove, and its seclusion has since helped to preserve its colonial heritage and most of its wilderness areas. It did not, however, protect its Aboriginal population, which was all but wiped out after only 35 years of brutal European occupation. In recent years, Tasmania has played a vital role in world environmental and conservation issues. The state is circled with excellent beaches, dotted with remarkably well preserved historic villages and home to some of the finest bushwalks in Australia.

Map of Tasmania (13K)

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Facts at a Glance
Environment
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Events
Getting Around
Lonely Planet Guides
Travellers' Reports on Australia

Facts at a Glance

Area: 67,800 sq km
Population: 453,000
Capital city: Hobart (pop: 127,000)

Environment

Tasmania is an island shaped like a pair of droopy Y-fronts located 250km south of the Australian mainland. It's separated from the mainland state of Victoria by the Bass Strait and is surrounded by the Southern Ocean and the Tasman Sea. It has set aside a greater percentage of its land as national park or scenic reserve than any other Australian state. The green midlands region is surprisingly reminiscent of the English countryside, but the west coast contains wild and virtually untouched forested mountain regions. Most of the population is concentrated on the north and south-east coasts.

Tasmania's weather is notoriously changeable. Its temperatures are among the lowest in Australia, but it's a beautiful place to experience the changing seasons. Snow often caps Hobart's Mt Wellington, although snowfalls tend to be light and unreliable. March and April are the most pleasant months to visit.

Attractions

Hobart

Australia's second-oldest capital, Hobart has fortunately been able to combine its Georgian architecture, harbourside atmosphere and relaxed pace with the benefits of a modern city. Straddling the mouth of the Derwent River, and backed by mountains, it's a small and easily navigable place. The city centre is arranged on a grid pattern, which leads down to the port, bustling Salamanca Place and the preserved colonial enclave of Battery Point. Farther south is the Wrest Point Hotel Casino eyesore/landmark.

Georgian warehouses, Hobart (16K)

Hobart is noted for its wealth of old buildings - more than 90 of which are classified by the National Trust. Handicrafts and seafood are in abundance on the quayside, where the historic warehouses form a picturesque backdrop. The city has beautiful botanical gardens and a number of museums and galleries. Harbour cruises are available, but the best way to get around and appreciate the city is on foot.

Port Arthur

South-east of Hobart on the Tasman Peninsula are the atmospheric ruins of Port Arthur, a brutal penal settlement between 1830 and 1877. This evocative place is at times downright eerie, and organised `ghost tours' used to capitalise on this impression before the macabre became all too real when a gunmen ran amok on the site in April 1996 killing 35 people. Several tours cover the huge site (which once had 60 buildings) and there are cruises to the nearby Isle of the Dead, which was the penal settlement's cemetery.

Colonial Villages

Hobart is surrounded by beautiful picture-postcard villages, the most famous being Richmond, 24km to the north-east. With more than 50 buildings dating from colonial days, it's the state's premier historic town. Richmond's famous bridge was built by convict labour in 1823, making it the oldest road bridge in Australia. Other nearby villages worth visiting are Pontville and New Norfolk.

Low Head lighthouse at the tricky Tamar River entrance (16K)

The midland villages of Oatlands, Ross and Campbell Town contain more fine examples of colonial architecture; Oatlands has the largest collection in Australia, with 87 in the main street alone. The ex-garrison towns of Ross and Campbell Town both feature convict-built bridges and buildings. Farther north towards Launceston, the two historic towns of Evandale and Longford have been classified by the National Trust.

National Parks

Tasmania's three largest national parks - the South-West, Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers and Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair - preserve a huge area of the state's south and south-west. These parks have been declared some of the last temperate wilderness areas in the world, and about 20% of the state is on the World Heritage List. Tasmania's 14 parks feature numerous bushwalks, the most legendary being the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair Overland Track (five or six days) and the South-West wilderness area's South Coast Track (10 days). Less strenuous walks are possible in Mt Field National Park, 80km north-west of Hobart, which has spectacular mountain scenery, alpine moorland, dense rainforest and magnificent waterfalls.

Cuckoo Falls Creek, Mt Field National Park (25K)

Crater Lake, Cradle Mountain (22K)

Freycinet Peninsula

On Tasmania's beautiful east coast, the peninsula is part of the Freycinet National Park and features secluded beaches and coves, rare plant, bird and animal life and excellent bushwalks. A particularly popular walk is the return trek to Wineglass Bay. The park has several campsites and lodges, and is renowned for its lack of reliable drinking water - bring your own from the nearby township of Coles Bay.

Stanley

The historic fishing village of Stanley sits at the foot of the extraordinary Circular Head (better known as the Nut) on the north-western edge of the island. The Nut is a 152m-high basalt formation, which can be climbed or ascended by chairlift, and there are great views from the top. Stanley's charm is best appreciated on foot, with bluestone seafront buildings, wharves, cottages and inns.

Strahan

This is the only town on the rugged and dangerous western coast. Though only a shadow of its former self, the town is rich in convict, logging and mining history. A penal settlement was established on Sarah Island in the middle of Strahan harbour in 1821 and convicts worked 12 hours a day in leg irons felling Huon pine. The settlement was infamous for its brutality but became redundant after the `escape-proof' penal settlement was built at Port Arthur. In the late 19th century, it became a booming port transporting copper, gold, silver and lead from mines on the west coast. These days it's a charming seaside town and a base for exploring the beauty of the Gordon River. Cruises, scenic flights, jet-boat rides and 4WD wilderness trips can all be arranged in Strahan for the Gordon River region.

Lobster pots, Strahan (26K)

Off the Beaten Track

Tasmania's numerous and extensive parks and wilderness areas makes it very easy to get away from built-up areas. On the West Coast there's Arthur River and the Arthur Pieman Protected Area with fishing, river cruises, ocean beaches, waterfalls and historic mining towns. Only 80km or so from Hobart are the Hartz Mountains and Mt Field national parks, both known for their spectacular mountain peaks, gorges, lakes, moorlands and abundant wildlife.

Sheffield, the town of murals, is a small community near Devonport, which in 1986 made the enlightened decision to depict its history in the form of murals on walls around the town. There are now 23 of the monsters and the effect is quaint, informative and cutely off-beat.

Tasmania is circled by islands which offer an even more remote retreat. In the south-east there's Maria Island National Park, a popular haunt for bird-watchers and featuring magnificent cliffs, beaches and forests. The island also has historic buildings and several walks. Offshore to the north of Tasmania are the Bass Strait islands - King Island and Flinders Island. The surrounding seas have claimed many ships over the years, and some of their remains are accessible to divers. The islands' settlers nearly exterminated the populations of seals, sea elephants and mutton birds, and Flinders Island was used as a dumping ground for Tasmania's few remaining Aborigines. Today, however, the islands are sanctuaries for wildlife and bushwalkers. King Island is noted for its dairy products, in particular its Brie and cream.

Activities

Outdoor activities are of course an integral part of Tasmania's appeal. The national parks and coastal areas are popular for bushwalking, while the north and east coasts are excellent for swimming. North of Bicheno, on the east coast, is just one area with plenty of good surf beaches. The Bass Strait islands offer fine diving opportunities, while the central lakes are well-known for their trout fishing. The numerous lakes and rivers offer great rafting and canoeing, the most challenging run being on the Franklin River. Caving is particularly good in Tasmania, especially around Mole Creek and Hastings. The Ben Lomond and Mt Field national parks offer some skiing opportunities.

Events

The New Year arrival of the yachts competing in the Sydney to Hobart and Melbourne to Hobart yacht races are celebrated with a Mardi Gras. The Royal Hobart Regatta in February is the largest boating carnival in the southern hemisphere. October sees royal agricultural and horticultural shows in Hobart and Launceston.

Getting Around

A good bus network connects all major towns and centres, and a variety of travel passes are available. However, services are less frequent at weekends and during the winter which makes car touring a very favourable option. There is a wide range of car-rental agencies, and rates are considerably lower than those on the mainland. Tasmania is an ideal size to explore by bicycle and you can hire bikes throughout the state. A full circuit of the island would take at least two weeks, but allowing a month is probably more realistic. Bear in mind that some roads are rather hilly, and you can expect some rainy days in any season, particularly in the western half of the state.

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