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Introduction Upgrades don't replace the guides - they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in December 1998. Be aware that things keep changing - even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate prior to departure. |
In politics and commerce, Syria has tentatively continued its recent trend of opening up to the west. For the visitor, there is an increasing array of imported products available for purchase, and all-too-familiar advertising logos are now appearing in the cities. The number of tourists visiting the country continues to rise and competition for choice accommodation in the main tourist centres can sometimes be fierce.
Nevertheless, with a little careful planning and effort it is still possible to wander through the rambling ruins of Palmyra and find yourself almost alone. The age of large scale tourism may be dawning in Syria but the country still offers the opportunity to experience vibrant Middle Eastern culture and a host of historical and ancient treasures.
Facts about the Country
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
The results of a government reafforestation program are beginning to be seen throughout the country. The roadsides that were once bleak, barren expanses littered with plastic bags and bottles are now lined with blooming pink and white oleanders and other trees. Hopefully the government's next initiative will be to address the problem of the plastic bags and bottles.GOVERNMENT AND POLITICS
Syria's President Hafez al-Assad continues to play his cards close to his chest and few details of Syrian internal politics enter the realm of public scrutiny. A few months ago the minister of defence was supposedly sacked for disloyalty but the outside world could only guess at the specific facts surrounding the incident.In terms of the peace process, Syria has recently earned praise for its general acceptance of the 'land for peace' concept. In return for the Golan Heights, Syria has promised a peace accord with Israel and recognition of the Israeli state. Some western governments, particularly France, have praised the Syrian approach to the peace process.
Another burning political issue in Syria concerns President Assad's successor. Assad's eldest son, Basil, was being groomed for the position but was killed in an accident in 1994. Posters featuring Assad, his deceased son Basil, and another son named Basha, all decked out in military finery, have begun to appear all over the country that. Assad's health has been poor for a long time – he had a heart attack in 1984 – and it is uncertain as to whether Bashar will be able to continue to govern smoothly in the event of his father's death.
Relations with Syria's traditional enemy, Iraq, have also moderated recently. A border crossing with Iraq has just reopened, initially for business and trade only. An oil pipeline that used to carry Iraqi crude through Syria to the Mediterranean has also recommenced operation.
Facts for the Visitor
VISAS & DOCUMENTS
It is strongly advised that travellers to Syria obtain entry visas before they leave home. Visas to enter Syria are still not available at Damascus airport or at border entry points. Letters from the Australian embassy certifying citizenship are required in Syrian embassies in neighbouring countries, such as Turkey, before they will consider applications. Even when armed with this letter, staff in the Syrian embassy in Jordan will often still not issue visas to tourists. There is no Syrian embassy in Lebanon.On arrival in Syria you will be given two cards to complete. One will be kept by the immigration authorities and the other stamped and returned with your passport. The second card is your exit permit and is handed in when you leave Syria – do not lose it.
Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world:
http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.htmlMONEY
A recent innovation has been the introduction of five, 10 and 25 Syrian pound coins to replace the low denomination paper notes that always threatened to fall apart through over-use.Costs
Inflation is a fact of life in the Syrian economy and prices continue to creep up year after year. However, the situation is not nearly as bad as it is in neighbouring Turkey, and the Syrian bank exchange rate is increased from time to time to keep pace with inflation.It does seem that prices in the tourism sector of the economy are increasing at a faster rate than anywhere else. The Syrians are waking up to the opportunities that the steady trickle of tourists into their country offers. Since 1 May, a government initiative has considerably increased admission costs to museums and other sites from Sú100 to Sú300. The thinking is clear – if visitors are prepared to come all the way to Syria, they won't be put off by inflated admission prices. Exorbitant fees are also being charged for permission to take photographs. To make matters worse the cost of admission to the same museums for locals remains at about Sú15 to S£30. An ISIC or other form of student photo ID is now invaluable for travel in Syria – it enables the holder to gain admission to sites for the local fee, and sometimes for no fee at all.
Exchanging Money
Credit card facilities and electronic banking are slowly being introduced in Syria. Even travellers cheques can sometimes be difficult to change. The recommended system remains the use of American dollars. As a guide – exchange rates change constantly – the black market rate ranges from about Sú50 to Sú52 for US$1, while the official bank rate hovers around Sú46 for US$1.It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency convertor to give you the current value of the Syrian pound: http://www.oanda.com
INTERNET RESOURCES
The Internet is not overflowing with Web sites on Syria but there are some interesting ones such as Visit Syria which has an official run down on the country:
http://www.visit-syria.com/frameang.htmlOn Syria-net you can find just about any existing Web link:
http://www.syria-net.com/Hotels in Syria provides information on accommodation in major hotels:
http://www.abt-travel.com/hotels/MIDDLE-E/SYRIA.HTMLDamascus
The National Museum is closed on Tuesdays. The museum admission price for foreigners is an exorbitant Sú300. A number of readers' letters have stated that it is possible to enter the Saida Zeinab Mosque, on the outskirts of Damascus, if you cover your hair and wear modest clothing.
The Al Haramien and Al-Rabie hotels continue to be popular with travellers, costing around Sú325 per double. The Al Haramien has a book for travellers' comments at reception that makes for interesting reading and another book specifically for cyclists that offers other tips and advice.
The government-run Karnak bus line seems to be in decline. Not long after the last edition of Syria & Jordan went to press, the operation of the main Damascus bus station shifted to Harasta on the north-eastern side of the city. Large numbers of comparatively modern private buses depart from here for most destinations. The system at Harasta works along similar lines to a Turkish bus station. The bus station is a maze of booths, each one belonging to a different bus company – you buy a ticket from one of the booths where schedules, destinations and prices are usually advertised. The competition between the various companies is fierce and it is recommended that you check out several companies before buying a ticket.
Around Damascus
Some readers have mentioned the possibility of travelling to Baalbek, Lebanon, as a day trip from Damascus. To do this you need a Lebanon visa and a multiple-entry visa for Syria. Service taxis run regularly from Damascus to Baalbek, leaving from outside the Karnak office; the price for the trip starts at around Sú500.PALMYRA
For those who are exhausted by the desert heat and hours spent tramping through the ruins, the pool at the Palmyra Cham Palace is available for use by anyone for the hefty price of Sú400 per person.DEIR EZ-ZUR
The old museum has closed and a new one has opened in the west of the city, near the end of Ali Ibn Ali Taleb St. The new exhibits have labels in Arabic, French and English and the staff are reportedly very helpful. Some readers have been critical of conditions at the Hotel Damas. The Hotel Raghdan and the more pricey Hotel Mari are more strongly recommended.HAMA
Readers have reported paying varying prices at the Cairo Hotel, ranging from Sú300 to S£550 for a double. The rooms are often noisy at night. More highly recommended is the neighbouring Riad Hotel, where usually clean rooms cost Sú250 to S£300. The two hotels seem to be in active competition and travellers should be able to negotiate a bargain price with one of the hotels.The Noria Hotel offers excellent rooms for US$18/28, run by the friendly English and German speaking Bader.
Around Hama
A number of readers' letters mention a couple of desert castles in the vicinity that definitely sound worth investigating: Qasr ibn Wardan (63km north-east of Hama) that was built in the years 561-64 during the time of Emperor Justinian; the 12th century Ismaeli castle at Masyaf (57km west of Hama); and the citadel of Ash-Shamamis (25km south-east of Hama), sitting atop an extinct volcano cone. Both Qasr ibn Wardan and Ash-Shamamis are reputed to have beautiful views.ALEPPO
A number of women travellers have reported unpleasant experiences around the tourist centre of Aleppo, particularly to the immediate north of Baron St in the area where some nightclubs and many of the city's brothels are located.Prices for accommodation have risen significantly in Aleppo in recent times. The Tourist Hotel, run by Madame Olga, remains one of the cleanest and most convenient options, although prices have increased to Sú700 for a double and it's sometimes difficult to get a room. The Hotel Al-Raoudah, in a quiet location, has clean, if smallish double rooms, with hot water and toilet facilities for Sú550.
Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don’t stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Syria. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers’ reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Destinations û Lonely Planet's On-line Mini Guide to Syria
Scoop û Middle East News Archive
The Thorn Tree û Middle East Travellers' Bulletin Board
Postcards û Travellers' Reports From Syria
Propaganda û Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to Jordan & Syria, Middle East, Jordan, Syria & Lebanon travel atlas
Journeys - Gates of DamascusThanks for Your Feedback
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