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Recent events in Cambodia have attracted a disproportionate international press coverage. There have been ugly incidents during the past 18 months which are not likely to stop in the near future. Since we last visited there's been a bloody coup, and recently, elections, and while the country is tense, as a whole it is safer than it was when the current edition of the book was published. For the traveller, Cambodia is safer now than at any time for about three decades. Members of the dwindling Khmer Rouge are surrendering almost daily, and the sheer numbers of tourists arriving are making travel more commonplace.

ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
National Parks
Cambodia now has four national parks; facilities at each are virtually non-existent. They are: Virachey in the far north-east, spanning Ratanakiri and Stung Treng provinces; Kirirom, off Highway 4 on the road to Sihanoukville; Ream, a maritime park just outside Sihanoukville; and Bokor, an old French hill station not far from Kampot.

Ornithologists can visit the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary (Tel 023-360991) on the Prek Toal river at the Battambang end of the Tonlè Sap Lake.

GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
On 31 March 1997, a grenade attack on supporters of dissident politician Sam Rainsy killed 16 people, and no one has yet been brought to justice. Sam Rainsy is now back in business campaigning for the forthcoming election for the National United Front (NUF), an opposition alliance of the Sam Rainsy Party with FUNCINPEC and two smaller parties.

The big news of 1997 was the 5 July coup, which saw simmering resentment unleashed in bloody street battles between forces loyal to Second Prime Minister Hun Sen, leader of the CPP, and those loyal to First Prime Minister Prince Norodom Ranariddh, leader of FUNCINPEC.

Hun Sen claimed Ranariddh was involved in arms smuggling and colluding with the Khmer Rouge. The international community roundly condemned Hun Sen for his actions, many aid programmes were stopped and ASEAN membership was postponed. Recent Khmer Rouge documents found in the former base Anlong Veng revealed that the KR planned to betray Ranariddh and attempt to recommence war with Vietnam. Ranariddh was finally tried and pardoned in March 1998 to allow a free and fair election to take place in July 1998. Despite some reports of Khmer Rouge violence, the election was widely regarded as fair with no evidence of rigging, and Hun Sen claimed victory with 67 of the country's 122 seats.

Check the situation carefully before entering the country. See the Internet Resources section for some good sources of news online.

The Khmer Rouge
In 1997 a series of remarkable events rocked the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot was put on trial by the Khmer Rouge, General Ta Mok assumed leadership of the movement and an alliance was formed with the remnants of FUNCINPEC forces loyal to the ousted Ranariddh. By mid-1998 the rebels appeared to be in their death throes. More defections in their stronghold of Anlong Veng allowed government forces to capture key bases.

The man most associated with Khmer Rouge atrocities, Pol Pot, died on 15 April. Although there is talk of a posthumous trial and the appearance of other Khmer Rouge leaders before an international tribunal, it seems unlikely as there are too many big names implicated in Cambodia, China, Thailand and the USA.

The Khmer Rouge may be weaker than at any time since their overthrow, but as they lack conventional territory they could resort to terrorist tactics in the future. Keep up to date with news via the links provided in the Internet Resources section.

HIGHLIGHTS
More of Cambodia is open to the visitor than at any time in the last three decades.

Increasingly people are heading to the south coast to relax on the empty beaches at Sihanoukville and heading back to Phnom Penh via Kampot and Kep. Many of the provincial towns offer a combination of colonial architecture, sleepy riverside location and extremely friendly locals. Easiest to visit are Kompong Cham and Kompong Chhnang, and perhaps the most rewarding is Battambang.

Before planning any trips upcountry by road, you must check the latest situation with locals and other backpackers, and, if possible, with non-governmental organisations (NGOs) in Phnom Penh. Cambodia remains a volatile country where unexpected dangers are often not as far away as they might seem. What is safe one week is not necessarily safe the next.

VISAS & DOCUMENTS
Coming overland from Thailand, visitors have to obtain a visa in Bangkok as they are not available at Poipet or Koh Kong. Travellers arriving overland from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) must obtain a visa before they arrive, but these are easy to get in Hanoi or Saigon. You must have Moc Bai as an exit point on your Vietnamese visa to use this route.

Visa Extensions
Officially one month costs US$30; three months US$60; six months US$100; and one year US$150. The police will keep your passport for about 2-5 days. There is an express next-day service at inflated prices: US$45 for one month and US$80 for three months.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Laos
15-17 Mao Tse Toung Blvd (Tel 426441; fax 427454)
One-month visit visas cost US$35 and take one day – cheaper than in Vietnam.

Vietnam
436 Monivong Blvd (Tel 725481; fax 427385)
One-month single-entry visas are US$50 and take five working days. There is no surcharge for Moc Bai as a valid entry point so this is cheaper than Bangkok.

MONEY
Currency Exchange
The riel dropped in value following the regional currency crisis of 1997–98. It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the riel:
http://oanda.com/cgi-bin/ncc

Exchanging Money
Cash advances on credit cards are available in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Battambang, but charges are high with most banks advertising a US$10 minimum charge. If you want up to US$250 go to the Foreign Trade Bank in Phnom Penh, as it charges a flat 4%. Commercial Cambodian Bank (CCB) is the only credit-card option beyond the capital.

POST & COMMUNICATIONS
Telephone
Calls from Battambang are cheap as Interphone offices route calls via Thailand.

ONLINE SERVICES
Business centres in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap offer monthly email accounts with unlimited use for about US$20 to US$30. This is good value if you intend to stay in Phnom Penh for a long time. Internet access is now available in Phnom Penh – see the Internet Resources section for details. Siem Reap is due to be connected in late 1998, but rates will be exorbitant as it will require a domestic call to the capital.

NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
For the lighter side of life in Cambodia, the free monthly Bayon Pearnik combines humorous stories with human interest features from around the country and offers a refreshing change from the darker subjects dealt with by the mainstream press. The team is also known for hosting regular parties so look out for posters in guesthouses.

RADIO & TV
The BBC has begun broadcasts in Phnom Penh in Khmer and English on 100 FM.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Security
Much of Cambodia is not as dangerous as the international media, which reports only the bad news, would have you believe. Always check the latest security situation before making a trip that you know not many travellers undertake, particularly if using a motorcycle. Do not rely only on information provided by locals – they often have to undertake dangerous trips and have no way of assessing the risks for a foreigner. Talk to other travellers and NGOs for a more balanced assessment. Embassies can be over-cautious. Road conditions change from day to day so it is crucial to check the current situation.

AIR
It is worth shopping around travel agents in the vicinity of the Central Market in Phnom Penh as they often have discounts on published fares. Latest prices from Phnom Penh include:

Thailand
Flights between Phnom Penh and Bangkok are available daily with Thai Airways International, Royal Air Cambodge (RAC) and Bangkok Airways and, infrequently, Kampuchea Airlines. Flights are cheaper in Bangkok than Phnom Penh. Kampuchea Airlines: US$80/99 one way/return. RAC: US$120/220 one way/return. Thai Airways: US$140/280. Bangkok Airways also fly daily to Siem Reap. Phnom Penh: US$142/284 one way/return. Siem Reap: US$155/310 one way/return.

Hong Kong
Dragonair: US$377/722 one way/return. Definitely buy the ticket through a travel agent. Kampuchea Airlines: US$250/373 one way/return.

Singapore
Silk Air: US$260/440. RAC: US$250/360 one way/return. Kampuchea Airlines: US$145/168 one way/return.

Vietnam
Vietnam Airlines: US$70/120 one way/return. RAC: US$65/130 one way/return.

Laos
Lao Aviation: US$125/250 one way/return. RAC plans to introduce services from summer 1998.

A new airline, President Airlines, will offer direct flights to destinations such as Indonesia. The head office will be located on Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Departure Tax
A departure tax of US$20 applies to all international flights out of Cambodia. Guess who is paying for the damage of last July?

LAND
Thailand
The land border between Cambodia and Thailand at Poipet opened to foreigners in February 1998. The roads from the crossing to both Siem Reap and Battambang are safe, but in terrible condition. To enter here you need to obtain a Cambodian visa from Bangkok in advance. For details on roads and prices, see the Siem Reap and Sisophon sections. The road between Sisophon and Siem Reap can become impassable at times during the wet season. From Poipet, you must take a tuk-tuk or pick-up (4B) to Aranyaprathet, from where there are two trains a day to Bangkok and buses every two hours.

The coastal border between Koh Kong Town and Trat Province in Thailand is also now open. Fast boats between Koh Kong and Sihanoukville costing 500B leave at 10.30 am and 12.30 pm in both directions, although the earlier one may not leave unless full. It takes about 3½ hours. Entering Cambodia, it is best to take a share taxi (100B per vehicle) or moto (50B) from the border to Koh Kong and pick up the fast boat to Sihanoukville from its point of origin. Leaving Cambodia, jump off the boat at the commune of Pak Long, just before Koh Kong, and you can take a small speedboat to the Thai border post of Had Lek for about 100B. Friendly immigration police usually suggest this as passports are also checked here. This is faster and easier than continuing into Koh Kong. From the Thai side there are regular 20B pick-ups to Klong Yai from where you can take a 60B per person share taxi to Trat. Bear in mind buses to Bangkok leave regularly until 6 pm and resume at 11 pm. Move fast unless you don't mind hanging around in Trat.

Vietnam
You must have Moc Bai stamped on your Vietnam visa or you will not be allowed to enter the country, even if you plead. See Getting There & Away in the Phnom Penh section for details.

AIR
The airport tax for domestic flights is a cheeky US$10 from Phnom Penh and US$4 elsewhere.

BUS
Bus services in Cambodia are improving. Three companies offer fast, comfortable air-con services between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. There are routes out of the capital to Kompong Chhnang, Udong and Takeo on small air-con buses.

TRAIN
Cambodia's rail network is now open to foreigners, but it is really not worth considering unless you are a serious trainspotter or a miser. Trains are slow, uncomfortable and often overcrowded, but they are cheap at 15r per kilometre. Mechanical problems can mean unscheduled overnight stops and bridges are not always maintained. Trains are easier prey than taxis, because bandits can run along next to them.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Cambodia is more dangerous for motorcycle riders than Thailand or Vietnam so a few basic rules include:

Phnom Penh

INFORMATION
Most, email and Internet access are available in the building to the left-hand side of the main GPO. Follow the signs for Camnet and expect to pay US$1 an email and US$8 an hour to surf the Net.

Email & Internet
Monthly email accounts can be arranged with business centres for about US$20 to US$30 and include unlimited usage. Apart from the GPO, Internet access is available at the Public Internet Centre, 553 St, near the Central Market, for US$10 per hour. FCC offers access at a similar price.

Emergencies
There is a 24-hour emergency police contact number in Phnom Penh (Tel 018-811542); you will be connected to an English-speaking officer. The general emergency number is Tel 117.

Swimming
There is a large pool at the Olympic Stadium, Olympic-sized in fact, and it is only US$2 a day to escape the heat of the city. Women should note that swimsuits are required, not bikinis, and some rather attractive frilly numbers are available for hire should this be a problem.

Seeing Hands Massage
The Seeing Hands Massage is intended to raise funds to empower disabled Cambodians in the capital. It is administered by well-trained blind masseurs and costs US$3 per hour. It is based at the National Centre for Disabled Persons (NCDP) at 3 Norodom Blvd.

Artillery Range
A number of travellers decide Cambodia is the place to do the Chuck Norris thing and fire off a few rounds on an AK-47 or aim a rocket launcher at a cardboard cut-out of a tank. It costs about US$12 for an AK clip, US$30 for 100 bullets on an M-60 mounted machine-gun and about US$40 for use of a B-40 grenade launcher. The range is just beyond Pochentong Airport, so keep your weapons horizontal.

PLACES TO STAY
Bert’s Books & Guesthouse is, sadly, no longer in existence as a disgusted Bert packed up and left after the coup, penning a wonderfully venomous letter to local newspapers before boarding the plane to safety. The building is now run as Pyco Guesthouse by a friendly Khmer doctor, but with little atmosphere for such a good location – a joint venture in waiting. Rooms with fan and bathroom are US$5 or US$10 with air-con.

GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
New addresses include:
Dragonair (Tel 217665), 104 Regency Square, Intercontinental Hotel, Monireth Blvd
Kampuchea Airlines (Tel 426912), 19 106 St

Bus
For Sihanoukville, GST, DH Cambodia and Ho Wah Genting all have large, comfortable air-con buses making the three to four-hour run, complete with kung fu videos and complementary water. Tickets cost 12000r. GST departs at 8 am and 1 pm, DH Cambodia at 7.30 am and 12.30 pm, and Ho Wah Genting at 7.30 and 9.30 am and 1.30 pm. Buses depart from the ticket offices near the Central Market.Buses back to Phnom Penh leave from company offices in the centre of Sihanoukville. GST and DH Cambodia operate at the same times as from Phnom Penh, but Ho Wah depart at 8 am and 12 and 2 pm. DH Cambodia offers a return ticket for US$5.

There is a daily (except Sunday) bus service to Ho Chi Minh City which leaves at 4.30 am from the Ho Chi Minh bus station on a little dirt road off 182 St, just past the Shell garage. Monday to Wednesday is the clattertrap bus, costing US$5, and Thursday to Saturday is the modern air-con bus for US$12. It is better to use share taxis as the bus gets stuck at the border for ages, making journey times as long as 10 hours.

Train
Trains to Kampot leave at 6.20 am every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, and return the following day. Tickets are about 2500r for the scheduled, six-hour 166km trip. At present there are no trains to Sihanoukville as the Kampot bridge is down.

Trains to Battambang depart at 6.30 am every day in both directions. The 274km journey takes about 12 hours and tickets cost just over 4000r.

Taxi, Pick-up & Minibus
Long-distance pick-ups take on the dreadful roads for long journeys to Siem Reap and Battambang. You can sit in the cab or, if you are feeling bold, on the back, and they leave when seriously full. It is best to arrange these yourself as it is cheaper than going through a guesthouse. You often have to haggle patiently to ensure you pay a fair price. As a basic rule pick-ups are best on bad roads, taxis best on sealed roads and minibuses best if you want a little more space. Vehicles depart from the north-east road between the Central Market and Monivong Blvd.

Pick-ups to Siem Reap costs about US$7 inside and US$3 on the back. Battambang is US$5 in and US$2 out. There are also services to many other destinations and you can work out how much to pay using Battambang's prices as a benchmark.

Boat
You can save some money and see an extra town by taking a cheap bus to Kompong Chhnang and picking up the fast boat there. See the Kompong Chhnang section for details.

GETTING AROUND
To/From The Airport
Pochentong International Airport is 7km west of central Phnom Penh via Pochentong Blvd. Official taxis cost US$7, but you can negotiate a taxi for about US$4 outside. A moto costs about US$1 per passenger.

Taxi
There are no metered taxis of the sort you see in Vietnam these days. Vantha Taxi has a couple of old air-con cars that work out at about US$1 every couple of kilometres, including a security guard at night. Ring them 24 hours (Tel 018 810267). Unmetered taxis tend to wait outside popular nightspots, but you must agree a price in advance.

Moto
Many of the moto drivers who wait outside Capitol, Narin's and Indochine have good English and can act as guides. Some at Capitol Guesthouse have been guiding for five years.

Angkor

SIEM REAP
Information
The Siem Reap area code is Tel 063.

Getting There & Away
Air
Bangkok Airways (Tel 380191/2) has daily flights to Bangkok for US$155/310 one way/return. The Bangkok Airways office is on the airport road and open daily from 8 am to 5 pm.

Pick-up
As the security situation has improved, travel between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap is becoming increasingly popular among backpackers. Sections of the road are not pretty, but pick-ups complete the journey in about eight hours. It costs about US$7 in the cab, US$3 on the back. Guesthouses can help you arrange this, but you will most likely have to pay a bit more for the privilege.

The 152km road to Thailand is something of a joke as about half the time is spent driving in the paddy fields to avoid potholes and downed bridges. Pick-ups to Poipet take four to five hours and cost about US$5 up front and US$2 behind, although be prepared for some negotiating. To Sisophon, where you can change for Battambang, pay about US$3 in the cab and about US$1.20 on the back for the three to four-hour ride.

Getting Around
Motorcycle & Moto
Currently, it is illegal for locals to rent motorbikes to foreigners (except journalists or employees of NGOs), to show visitors back routes into the temple complex. It is also illegal for moto drivers to carry more than one passenger. Don't go trying to persuade residents to bend these rules as they will most likely get into a lot more trouble than you, and will possibly have their moto confiscated. It is worth remembering that these rules are designed for visitor safety: a few wrong turns could land foreigners in places they shouldn't be, either because of landmines or theft.

Around Cambodia

THE SOUTH COAST
KAMPOT
Security concerns that have kept travellers away in the past are no longer a problem and the town is a good base to explore the nearby crumbling beach resort of Kep and the abandoned hill station of Bokor.

Information
The GPO is on the river to the south of the Kampot Bridge. There are telephone and fax offices around town, but no banks. The area code for Kampot is Tel 033.

Tek Chhouu Falls
The Tek Chhouu Falls are 8km out of town, but hardly constitute a waterfall – more a moderately fast current on a slight slope.

Getting There & Away
Kampot is 148km from Phnom Penh and, owing to the poor condition of national highway 3, the journey takes three to four hours depending on the vehicle and driver. Share taxis leave from near the Total station in the west of town for 8000r a person but minibuses are a better deal at 5000r. Some travellers make their way on 250cc motorbikes from the capital; see the Phnom Penh section for rental details.

Check the Phnom Penh section for details on taking the train; it is the least sensible option. The road to Sihanoukville is 105km.

BOKOR HILL STATION
This place feels like a ghost town and the old Catholic church looks like it was locked up only yesterday. The old hotel and casino, the Bokor Palace, is straight out of The Shining, and if you walk to the edge of what was once an outdoor terrace you will be rewarded with a magnificent view over lush jungle stretching almost to the sea. CAUTION: like any rural areas in Cambodia there may be landmines. There was not much fighting here, but it is sensible to keep to well-marked paths near buildings. Security may be a problem so make sure you check the situation from in Kampot before visiting.

Getting There & Away
Bokor is 41km from Kampot, 132km from Sihanoukville and 190km from Phnom Penh. The access road is 7km outside Kampot marked by an elaborate interchange system. Best visited as a day trip from Kampot, it is possible to visit coming to or from Sihanoukville, but it's a tough trip.

KEP
Little remains here but skeletons of buildings as locals were forced to loot them for materials to sell to the Vietnamese to survive the famine of 1979-80. Kep is on a small headland with a 6km palm-fringed road along the coastline. The beach is dirty and often overcrowded at weekends.

SIHANOUKVILLE
Information
Check out the Sihanoukville Visitor's Guide for great information on the town. The area code for Sihanoukville is Tel 034.

Places to Stay
Sam's Guesthouse has closed down, but he has opened a small restaurant on the road near Mealy Chenda. Independence Hotel no longer has any rooms for rent and sits idle awaiting either a brave developer or the wrecking ball.

Places to Eat
Claude's is now a restaurant known as Sea Dragon, and it has a good menu.

Entertainment
Nightlife in Sihanoukville is limited compared to Phnom Penh. The nameless beer shop opposite the market is a great place for cheap draught at 1800r a glass.

Getting There & Away
Train
The train service to Sihanoukville is currently out of service as the river bridge in Kampot collapsed in early 1998. Repairs are likely to take some time.

Motorcycle
In Sihanoukville, motorbike rentals can be arranged at Good Luck (you'll need it with some of its bikes) and SV. It is US$7 a day for 250cc off-roaders, sometimes cheaper if you take them for several days, and they will get you to Kampot in about two hours. The advantage of a motorcycle is it makes a visit to Kep and Bokor Hill Station easier if security allows. But it is not a good idea for beginners. National highway 4 is a busy road so it is easier to bus down and arrange a motorcycle in Sihanoukville. Some travellers do start in the capital – see the Phnom Penh section for details on rentals.

Taxi
Kampot is 105km from Sihanoukville; the road linking them is excellent while you stay on national highway 4, poor for the next 30km and good again for the final stretch. Taxis take about three hours and can be arranged from near the market for about 8000r a person.

RABBIT ISLAND
A short boat ride off the coast of Kep is Rabbit Island. It has four beaches, all much nicer than those at Kep itself, and you can stay with families as long as you sort out a price for food and lodging. Pay about US$20 a day for the boat, although the exact price may depend on numbers.

Getting There & Away
Kep is 24km from Kampot, 172km from Phnom Penh and 49km from the Vietnamese town of Ha Tien. There is a border crossing 8km to the north of Ha Tien, but it is not presently open to foreigners. The direct road to Phnom Penh offers some stunning limestone peaks before rejoining national highway 3. The journey from the capital takes about four hours.

CENTRAL CAMBODIA
KOMPONG CHHNANG
Kompong Chhnang is a tale of two cities, the ugly dockside seen by fast boat, and the old colonial quarter with its pleasant parks and handsome buildings.

Getting There & Away
Kompong Chhnang is 91km north of Phnom Penh on a good, sealed road. DH Cambodia (7 and 10 am, 12.30 and 3 pm) and Ho Wah Genting (6.50, 9 and 11.30 am, 2 and 3.30 pm) run daily buses for 5000r that go past Udong. The fast boats make the trip, but are overpriced compared with the air-con buses. From Kompong Chhnang you can board the fast boat to Siem Reap, which comes through just after 8.30 am. Pay about 35,000r.

KOMPONG CHAM
Banks in town can handle travellers cheques and cash, but not credit-card advances. Pacific Commercial Bank faces the river, and is around the corner from the market. Canadia Bank is at the river end of Monivong. The area code for Kompong Cham is Tel 042.

Getting There & Away
Kompong Cham is 120km north-east of Phnom Penh. The road is being upgraded by the Japanese so is excellent in sections, although the project is not due for completion until spring 1999. Buses are not yet running along this route, but should start soon. Shared taxis cost about US$2 a person and go from the Central Market in Phnom Penh, while minibuses are 4000r. Highway 7 on to Kratie is in poor condition and swings eastwards almost to Mondulkiri before cutting west again. Pick-ups do the run for about US$3, or less on the back.

Fast boats for Phnom Penh and Kratie leave near the Mekong Hotel. It takes three hours to the capital and is 10,000r. It also takes three hours to Kratie and is 20,000r. Slower boats up to Kratie take six hours for only 8000 to 10,000r. Travel is slow, departures infrequent and security not always good.

WESTERN CAMBODIA
BATTAMBANG
Cambodia's second-largest city is an elegant riverside town, home of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country and hospitable people. Until recently, security concerns kept Battambang off the map for all but those willing to fly in and out.

Places to Stay
Battambang's hotels are the best value in the country. Prices are uniform so expect to pay US$5 for a spacious double with bathroom, TV and fridge, and US$10 for the added luxuries of air-con and hot water.

Getting There & Away
The 291km road to Phnom Penh is a horror. It is frighteningly bad as far as Pursat, plain bad to Kompong Chhnang and okay into Phnom Penh. Security is all right, but check this before departing. Share taxis and pick-ups leave from near the Sisophon roundabout. The cab of a pick-up is US$5, US$2 on the back.

Sisophon is 80km north-west of Battambang on a reasonable road. Aim to pay 4000r to 5000r in the cab of a pick-up and a little more in a taxi. From Sisophon you can arrange transport to Poipet or Siem Reap.

It is a harsh 274km train journey to Phnom Penh of at least 12 hours if the train encounters no problems on the way. It is cheap at just over 4000r, but locals advise against using the service for reasons of comfort and security. You could take the train as far as Pursat, avoiding the worst stretch of road, and then continue to Phnom Penh by taxi.

Getting Around
Battambang is compact enough to explore on foot. Motos are cheap and plentiful. Most rides are 500r.

AROUND BATTAMBANG
Before setting out on trips around Battambang province, try to link up with an English-speaking moto driver as it will help you get more out of the experience. As the area sees few tourists, prices are not firm and different drivers may want different amounts. The following prices are indicative rather than definitive.

Wat Ek Phnom
Wat Ek Phnom is a dilapidated 10th-century temple. It is something of a disappointment after Angkor, but the attractive ride out there on winding road following the banks of the Sangker makes the trip worthwhile. Take a US$2 moto for the 15km round trip. Some drivers will take you through the country on the way back.

Phnom Sampeau
The hilltop temple of Sampeau was formerly the front line in the government's defence of Battambang, but with the late-1996 defection of Ieng Sary and his Khmer Rouge units the area is safe. There is a long, hot climb to reach the summit, topped by a small wat and a stupa. Nearby are a couple of large field guns, which local children claim are defended with mines. This may not be true, but in the meantime take your photos from the path and do not approach them. For this information alone it is worth letting a child tag along with you and giving them something like 1000r.

They will also guide you to a horrific killing field located in a cave on another part of the hill. A small staircase leads down to a platform covered in the skulls and bones of victims. Look up to the right and you will see a skylight hole where victims were bludgeoned before being thrown into the cave below.

Phnom Sampeau is 26km south-west of Battambang and a moto is US$2 to US$3 including wait time.

SISOPHON
A number of travellers coming overland from Thailand have to spend the night here. From Sisophon to Poipet is about 5000r in the cab, less on the back, and to Siem Reap it is about 15,000r inside, 6000r outside. Coming from Thailand to Siem Reap, you should spend the night in Sisophon if you arrive after 2 pm.

NORTH-EAST CAMBODIA
North-east Cambodia is one of the most inaccessible parts of the country and conditions vary widely between wet and dry seasons. Overland prices tend to be higher than elsewhere in the country and pick-up drivers may leave without you if they don't like your price.

KRATIE
Kratie was spared war-time bombing and was 'liberated' by the Khmer Rouge long before other parts of the country. You get some dramatic sunsets over the Mekong and very old Khmer houses are on the edge of town.

Getting There & Away
National highway 7 puts Kratie 343km north of Phnom Penh and 141km south of Stung Treng. By road from the capital it takes around eight hours and costs about US$5 inside a pick-up.

Quicker and more comfortable are the fast boats that take six hours up, five down, and cost 30,000r. Boats leave in both directions at 7 am. The road north to Stung Treng is one of the most dangerous in the country as bandit attacks are frequent. Some travellers are now using this route and trucks charge about 25,000r inside and about 15,000r in the back for the six to eight-hour journey. Check current security conditions carefully before taking this road.

RATANAKIRI
BAN LUNG
There are no banks in Banlung, but you can change US dollars into riel at jewellers in town. At the GPO on the road to Bokheo you can make international calls. The code for Ratanakiri is Tel 075.

AROUND RATANAKIRI
Voen Sai
Located on the Tonlè San River, Voen Sai is a pleasant little community. Across the river is an old Chinese settlement dating back to 1700 and further downstream are several Lao and Chunchiet villages. You can cross the river for 500r or less. Voen Sai is also the gateway to Virachay National Park, the largest such park in Cambodia stretching east to Vietnam, north to Laos and west to Stung Treng. The park has not been fully explored and may be home to a number of larger mammals. Rangers also say there are waterfalls, some as high as 100m. Facilities are minimal, but if you contact the ranger post in town you may be able to arrange a walk in the area.

Lumphat
The old provincial capital of Lumphat is something of a ghost town these days thanks to American bombing. It is an embarkation point for trips on the Tonlè Srepok, the river depicted in the movie Apocalypse Now.

Bokheo
The gem-mining town of Bokheo is dull in itself, but you may want to head out there to take a look at the mines. You can purchase cheap stones in and around the town, although you get the feeling you are being offered leftovers and the best stuff has disappeared. Bokheo is 28km east of Banlung on the road to Vietnam.

Getting There & Away
The road journey from Phnom Penh to Ratanakiri is an arduous three days as you must break it in Kratie and Stung Treng. The road between Ban Lung and Stung Treng is hopeless: for details of costs and continuing south overland see the Kratie section.

Mondulkiri
Mondulkiri is another isolated forested province south of Ratanakiri, nestled against Cambodia's eastern border with Vietnam. It offers similar attractions to Ratanakiri Province, but has seen fewer visitors. Sen Monorom is the capital and, like Ban Lung, there is a pleasant lake in town. One advantage over Ratanakiri is Sen Monorom's elevated altitude, which ensures cooler temperatures during the dry season.

Getting There & Away
RAC flies to Sen Monorom twice a week for US$50/100 one way/return. The road from Phnom Penh is poor after Kompong Cham, although loggers have upgraded it, and it will most likely require an overnight stop in a village along the way. For the time being flying is the way to go. You can go to Kratie by boat (30,000r) and then go by road from there in one day.

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