Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Kingdom of Cambodia
Area: 181,035 sq km (11,224 sq mi)
Population: 10.5 million (growth rate 2.5%)
Capital city: Phnom Penh (pop one million)
People: 90-95% ethnic Khmers plus ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese
Language: Khmer, French and English
Religion: 95% Buddhist, also Muslim and animist
Government: Transitional democracy
Head of state: King Norodom Sihanouk
Prime Minister: Hun Sen
Cambodia shares borders with Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. The country is dominated by two topographical features: the Mekong River and the Tonlé Sap (Great Lake). There are three mountainous areas: the south-west (Elephant and Cardamom mountains), along the northern border with Thailand (Dangkrek Mountains) and the north-east corner (Eastern Highlands). An estimated 75% of the total land area surrounding Tonlé Sap is fertile lowland. Much of the country is forested with tropical vegetation dominating the south-west mountains and mangrove forest lining the coast.
The climate is governed by two monsoons: the cool, dry north-eastern monsoon from November to March and the humid south-western monsoon from May to October. Average annual temperatures vary from 21 to 35°C (70 to 95°F).
Very little is known about prehistoric Cambodia, although archeological evidence has established that prior to 1000 BC Cambodians subsisted on a diet of fish and rice and lived in houses on stilts, as they still do today. From the 1st to the 6th centuries, much of Cambodia belonged to the South-East Asian kingdom of Funan, which played a vital role in developing the political institutions, culture and art of later Khmer states. However, it was the Angkorian era, beginning in the 8th century, that really transformed the kingdom into an artistic and religious power.
Forces of the Thai kingdom of Ayudhya sacked Angkor in 1431, leaving the Khmers plagued by dynastic rivalries and continual warfare with the Thais for a century and a half. The Spanish and Portuguese, who had recently become active in the region, also played a part in these wars until resentment of their power led to the massacre of the Spanish garrison at Phnom Penh in 1599. A series of weak kings ruled from 1600 until the French arrived in 1863.
After some gunboat diplomacy and the signing of a treaty of protectorate in 1863, the French went on to force King Norodom to sign another treaty, this time turning his country into a virtual colony in 1884. A relatively peaceful period followed (even the peasant uprising of 1916 was considered peaceful). In 1941, on the assumption that he would prove suitably pliable, the French installed 19 year-old Prince Sihanouk on the Cambodian throne. This turned out to be a major miscalculation as the years after 1945 were strife-torn, with the waning of French colonial power aided by the proximity of the Franco-Viet Minh War that raged in Vietnam and Laos. Cambodian independence was eventually proclaimed in 1953, the enigmatic King Norodom Sihanouk going on to dominate national politics for the next 15 years before being overthrown by the army.
In 1969 the United States carpet-bombed suspected communist base camps in Cambodia, killing thousands of civilians and dragging the country unwillingly into the US-Vietnam conflict. American and South Vietnamese troops invaded the country in 1970 to eradicate Vietnamese communist forces but were unsuccessful; they did manage, however, to push Cambodia's leftist guerillas (the Khmer Rouge) further into the country's interior. Savage fighting soon engulfed the entire country, with Phnom Penh falling to the Khmer Rouge in 1975.
Over the next four years the Khmer Rouge, under Pol Pot's leadership, systematically killed an estimated two million Cambodians (especially the educated) in a bid to turn Cambodia into a Maoist, peasant-dominated agrarian cooperative. Vietnam invaded Cambodia in 1978, forcing the Khmer Rouge to flee to the relative sanctuary of the jungles along the Thai border. From there, they conducted a guerilla war against the Vietnamese-backed government throughout the late 1970s and 1980s.
In mid-1993, UN-administered elections led to a new constitution and the reinstatement of Norodom Sihanouk as king. The Khmer Rouge boycotted the elections, rejected peace talks and continued to buy large quantities of arms from the Cambodian military leadership. In the months following the election, a government-sponsored amnesty secured the first defections from Khmer ranks, with more defections occurring from 1994 when the Khmer Rouge was finally outlawed by the Cambodian government.
Treatment of the Khmer Rouge was one of the sore points of the uneasy coalition of Prince Ranariddh's National United Front and Hun Sen's Cambodian People's Party. In July 1997, Hun Sen followed up accusations that Ranarridh was absorbing Khmer Rouge defectors into his ranks by setting soldiers against royalist troops. A weekend of heavy fighting and looting in Phnom Penh ensued and when the dust settled, Hun Sen assumed sole leadership of Cambodia. Elections in mid-98 returned Hun Sen to this position, with much grumbling from opposition candidates about dodgy electoral practices.
In early 1998, Khmer Rouge hardliner General Ta Mok fled to the hills with a few hundred loyalists, taking an ailing Pol Pot as prisoner. Pol Pot's death in April 1998 from an apparent heart attack was greeted with anger (that he was never brought to trial) and scepticism (he has been reported dead many times before). Khmer Rouge loyalists still hold positions of power in Cambodia but the organisation is more or less fatally splintered. Whether the death of one of the century's great tyrants will engender a healing process is yet to be seen.
GDP: US$12 billion
GDP per head: US$1266
Annual growth: 6%
Inflation: 6%
Major products/industries: Rice milling, fishing, wood, textiles and rubber
Major trading partners: Vietnam, Eastern Europe, Japan, India
Khmer architecture reached its zenith during the Angkorian era (seen in Angkor Wat and the structures of Angkor Thom). Many fine examples of Khmer sculpture can be found in the National Museum in Phnom Penh. Cambodia's classical dance is highly stylised and usually accompanied by an orchestra or choral narration.
Central structure, Angkor Wat (24K)
Theravada Buddhism is the dominant religion. Khmer is Cambodia's official language and can often prove difficult for foreigners. For over a century, the second language of choice was French, which is still spoken by many people who grew up before the 1970s. English has recently surged in popularity.
Prayuvong Buddha Factory, Phnom Penh (20K)
A Cambodian meal almost always includes a soup, which is eaten with the other courses. Fish is the nation's mainstay, and grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. `Salad' dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemon grass - three flavours which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. The French influence is seen in the bread, baked turtles and frogs legs which are sold in the markets. Sweet dishes include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding. The most popular local drink is soda water with a squeeze of lemon.
Prominent cultural events include the Bon Om Tuk or the Water Festival. It begins in late October or early November when the Tonlé Sap River reverses its flow and begins to empty into the Mekong River. Pirogue (long canoe) races are held in Phnom Penh at this time. Chaul Chnam is held in mid-April, and is a three-day celebration of the Khmer New Year. Ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese celebrate Lunar New Year in late January or early February.
Visas: One month visa US$20
Health risks: Cholera, hepatitis, malaria, typhoid, rabies, landmines (Cambodia has ill-equipped hospitals)
Time: GMT/UTC plus seven hours
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz (unstable supply)
Weights & Measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
Currency: Riel
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$3-5
- Restaurant meal: US$5-10
- Top-end meal: US$10 and up
- Budget hotel: US$6
- Mid-range hotel: US$20
- Top-end hotel: US$150 plus (available in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap only)
For the most part, Cambodia is a pretty cheap place to travel. Rock-bottom budgeters can probably get by in Phnom Penh on $10 a day - accommodation can be as cheap as $2-3 in the capital, though you'll pay about $5 elsewhere, and you can feed yourself for $2-3. If you want to travel around you'll need to spend more - transport is a major expense. Entrance fees (particularly for Angkor Wat- currently around $20 a day) can also set you back a fair bit. Mid-range travel is very reasonable, with excellent accommodation from $15-25 and good meals for around $5.
If you've got cash US dollars, you won't need to change money in Cambodia and you'll pay much the same as you would with riel. Thai baht are also widely accepted. Both of these are easy to change, as are most other major currencies. It can be difficult to change travellers' cheques (in fact, it's pretty much impossible outside Phnom Penh and Siem Reap), and credit cards are rarely accepted.
Tipping is not expected in Cambodia, but salaries are very low and any gratuities for good service will be gratefully accepted. Bargaining is the rule in markets, when hiring vehicles and sometimes even when taking a room, but you won't need to be as forceful as you would in Thailand or Vietnam.
The ideal months to be in Cambodia are December and January, when humidity is bearable and it's unlikely to rain. From February on it starts getting pretty hot, with April being unbearably so. The wet season (from April to October) is very wet, but can be a good time to visit Angkor, where the moats will be full and the foliage lush.
Warning
Even before the violence of July 1997, Cambodia was no picnic: a decision to travel there now would be courageous at best. All visitors are advised to register their presence with their embassy and seek advice on the current security situation. Non-essential travel outside Phnom Penh and Angkor should be avoided. Although the danger of being kidnapped and murdered by the Khmer Rouge may have waned with the organisation's collapse, banditry is widespread and foreigners have been particularly targeted. Visitors should not attempt to enter Cambodia by land, except from Moc Bai in Vietnam. There is even tension along the Vietnamese-Cambodian border following Cambodian accusations that the Vietnamese are extending their territory several hundred metres into Cambodian soil. The amount of smuggling that takes place across the border also means strangers are often considered intruders.
Phnom Penh
The capital still retains an undeniable charm despite its tumultuous and often violent past. It has several impressive wats (temple-monasteries) that include: Wat Ounalom, Wat Phnom and Wat Lang Ka. It is also home to the spectacular Silver Pagoda, which is one of the few places in Cambodia where artefacts embodying the brilliance and richness of Khmer culture can still be viewed. There are also displays of Khmer crafts in the National Museum and the Royal Palace, King Norodom Sihanouk's official residence.
The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are a grisly reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. Some 17,000 people were killed here, just 15km south-west of the city centre, and over 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear, glass panel of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988.
Killing Fields of Choeung Ek (14K)
You can sample vermicelli or frogs legs at any number of eateries, buy jewellery, antiques or the ubiquitous kramas (checked cotton scarves) at the Central Market, or purchase traditional works of art at the School of Fine Arts (Ecole des Beaux-Arts). The Central Market area, which includes Monirong Blvd, is the main centre for budget travellers; it has cheap accommodation and plenty of food stalls.
Royal Palace, Phnom Penh (19K)
The celebrated temples of Angkor are Cambodia's greatest tourist attraction. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre. The temples were built between the 9th and the 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples became cloaked by forest. The site became the source of scholarly interest in the late19th century after the publication of Voyage à Siam et dans le Cambodge by French naturalist Henri Mouhot. Efforts were undertaken to clear away the jungle vegetation that threatened to completely destroy the monuments, and restoration continues today.
Dancing apsara and Vishnu statue, Angkor Wat (22K)
Apart from Angkor Wat, two other magnificent temples to visit are the Bayon and Ta Prohm. Accommodation and food can be found in the town of Siem Reap, only a few km from the temples.
Robed monk descends the steps of a wat at Ruluos, Angkor (19K)
Udong
Udong, 40km north of Phnom Penh, was the capital of Cambodia between 1618 and 1866. It's generally very quiet here, and you'll often have the town's stupas to yourself (barring, of course, the armed guard who will probably want to accompany you). The ruins are sprinkled across two ridges. The smaller has two ruined buildings, several stupas and the Ta San Mosque (or at least its remains; all that's left is the building's bullet-pocked walls). From the mosque you can see a vihara, a pagoda and a building once used as a prison by Pol Pot.
A 16th century treasure is supposed to be hidden below the larger ridge, which is topped by the scattered ruins of a large vihara and Buddha statue - the Khmer Rouge blew the structures up in 1977. Surrounding the ruins are some still-intact smaller viharas, stupas and Buddhas. At the base of the ridge is a memorial to victims of Pol Pot, containing the bones of people buried in the 100 or so mass graves found in the area.
Sihanoukville
Sihanoukville (also known as Kompong Som) is Cambodia's only port. It's currently being redeveloped as a tourist attraction, with a casino planned for Naga Island. At present Sihanoukville's chief attraction is the great snorkelling and diving that can be found around the nearby islands - some of the guesthouses in town can arrange a boat trip for you. The best of the beaches around the town is probably Ochatial Beach, although its worth riding a bike down to Independence Beach, where you can check out the allegedly-haunted Independence Hotel.
Ratanakiri
Mountainous Ratanakiri Province is best known for its isolated hill tribes. Good news for travellers is that the province is free of both landmines and Khmer Rouge activity, which means it is fairly safe to explore the surrounding countryside and visit some of the hill tribes; watch out, however, for illegal loggers, who are usually armed and not particularly welcoming to unexpected visitors. It's also best to avoid travelling here in the wet season, since the roads will be impassible and the risk of malaria and dengue fever is high.
The capital of the province is Ban Lung - it's a good base for treks, but nothing much happens here. Just 4km east of Ban Lung is Yak Lom Volcanic Lake, one of the main attractions of the region. It forms a near circle and is surrounded by forest. There are also waterfalls west of Ban Lung.
There's not a lot of outdoorsy stuff you can in Cambodia, due mainly to the preponderance of land mines and men with guns. There's limited trekking in Ratanakiri, and if you fancy a spot of snorkelling you could try Sihanoukville.
Getting There & Away
Commercial flights to Phnom Penh were temporarily suspended following the July 1997 coup d'état. Limited flights have since recommenced to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), but the connections are not reliable. Phnom Penh's Pochentong airport terminal was destroyed in the fighting, so don't expect to wait around for your flight in an executive lounge. There is a land connection from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh, via the Moc Bai border crossing: buses take five to six hours. It is also possible to rent both a car and driver in Vietnam for trips into Cambodia. Passenger ferries link the Vietnamese port of Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta with Phnom Penh.
Mekong River scene (22K)
Cambodia has a limited road network, most of which is deteriorating badly. The rail system, which has suffered frequent sabotage by rebels, is off limits to foreigners. In contrast, there are some 1900km of navigable waterways, and Phnom Penh, which is 320km from the mouth of the Mekong, is accessible by smaller ocean-going vessels. Buses serve Phnom Penh's suburbs. Cyclos are a cheap form of transport and motorbikes and bicycles are available for hire. Beware of Cambodians' reckless driving habits and see under Warning about travelling outside the capital.
Getting around and lazing around, Phnom Penh (18K)
- Angkor: An Introduction by George Coedès.
- Angkor, Guide Henri Parmentier by Henri Parmentier.
- For information on Cambodia's darker, more recent history, try Sideshow by William Shawcross, River of Time by Jon Swain, and Pol Pot's biography Brother Number One by David P Chandler.
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