Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Lao People's Democratic Republic
Area: 236,000 sq km (92,040 sq m)
Population: 4.75 million (growth rate 2.9%)
Capital city: Vientiane (pop 300,000)
People: 50% Lao Loum (lowland Lao), 30% Lao Theung (lower-mountain dwellers of mostly proto-Malay or Mon-Khmer descent), 10-20% Lao Sung (Hmong or Mien high-altitude hill tribes) and 10-20% tribal Thais
Language: Lao and Lao dialects (closely related to Thai), French
Religion: 85% Buddhist, 15% animist and spirit cults
Government: Socialist republic
President: Khamtai Siphandon
Prime Minister: Sisavat Keobounphan
Laos is bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Myanmar (Burma). Rivers and mountains dominate the country's topography. The largest river, the Mekong (Nam Khong), runs the entire length of the country, providing fertile flood plains for agriculture and forming the country's border with Thailand. It is also Laos' main transportation artery.
Over 70% of the country consists of mountains and plateaus. The Annamite Chain, bordering Vietnam, runs parallel to the Mekong for half the length of the country. The rugged mountains average between 1500-3000m (4920-9840ft) in height, and at their southern extremity open up to form the Bolaven Plateau, a 10,000 sq km (6200 sq m) area that produces mountain rice, coffee, tea and other high-altitude crops. The highest mountain is Phu Bia (2819m/9246ft) in northern Laos.
Two-thirds of Laos is forested and only 10% of the country is considered suitable for agriculture. Given the topography, it is fortunate that Laos has one of the lowest population densities in Asia - around 18 people per sq km (about 11 per sq mi). Most of the population is settled along fertile river valleys, although there are many small tribes living in the hills. The largest population centres, Vientiane and Savannakhet, are both in the Mekong River Valley; 85% of the population lives in rural areas.
Taking produce to market (9K)
Despite large-scale bombing and the use of defoliants in the eastern section of the country during the US war with Vietnam, Laos has one of the most pristine ecologies in South-East Asia. Vegetation consists primarily of varieties associated with monsoon forests such as teak, Asian rosewood and bamboo. About 50% of the country is covered with primary forest and another 30% with secondary growth. The forests are endangered by illegal logging and slash-and-burn agriculture.
Endemic animals include the concolor gibbon, snub-nosed langur, lesser panda and raccoon dog. Exotic species found in neighbouring countries are usually found in greater numbers in Laos because of the forest cover and fewer hunters. They include the Javan mongoose, Siamese hare, leopard cat, tiger, Irrawaddy dolphin, and a few Javan rhinos thought to survive in the Bolaven Plateau. There are 17 recently-opened Biodiversity Conservation Areas scattered throughout the country.
The annual Asian monsoon cycle gives Laos two distinct seasons: May to October is wet, and November to April is dry. Temperatures vary according to altitude. In the Mekong River Valley, the highest temperatures occur between March and April (38°C/100°F) and the lowest between December and January (15°C/59°F). During most of the rainy season, daytime temperatures average around 29°C (84°F) in the lowlands and 25°C (77°F) in the mountain valleys.
The country has long been occupied by migrating Thais (including Shans, Siamese and Lao) and slash-and-burn Hmong/Mien hill tribes. The first Lao principalities were consolidated in the 13th century following the invasion of south-west China by Kublai Khan's Mongol hordes. In the mid-14th century, a Khmer-sponsored warlord, Fa Ngum, combined a number of scattered principalities around Luang Prabang to form his own kingdom, Lan Xang ('a million elephants'). The kingdom initially prospered, but internal divisions and pressure from neighbours caused it to split in the 17th century into three warring kingdoms centred on Luang Prabang, Wieng Chan (Vientiane) and Champasak.
By the end of the 18th century, most of Laos came under Siamese (Thai) suzerainty but the territory was also being pressured by Vietnam. Unable or unwilling to serve two masters, the country went to war with Siam in the 1820s. This disastrous ploy led to all three kingdoms falling under Thai control. By the late 19th century, France had established French Indochina in the Vietnamese provinces of Tonkin and Annam. The Thais eventually ceded all of Laos to the French, who were content to use the territory merely as a buffer between its colonial holdings and Siam.
During WWII, the Japanese occupied Indochina and a Lao resistance group, Lao Issara, was formed to prevent the return of the French. Independence was achieved in 1953 but conflict persisted between royalist, neutralist and communist factions. The USA began bombing North Vietnamese troops on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in eastern Laos in 1964, escalating conflict between the royalist Vientiane government and the communist Pathet Lao who fought alongside the North Vietnamese. By the time a ceasefire was negotiated in 1973, Laos had the dubious distinction of being the most bombed country in the history of warfare.
A coalition government was formed, but when Saigon fell in 1975, most of the royalists left for France. The Pathet Lao peacefully took control of the country and the Lao People's Democratic Republic came into being in December 1975. Lao remained closely allied with the Vietnamese communists throughout the 1980s. Although many private businesses were closed down after 1975, there has been a relaxation of rules since 1989, and the move towards a market economy has led to a small-scale economic revival. Laos cemented ties with its neighbours when it was welcomed into ASEAN in July 1997.
GDP: US$9.7 billion
GDP per head: US$2071
Annual growth: 7%
Inflation: 6%
Major products/industries: Rice, tobacco, coffee, tin mining, timber, and opium
Major trading partners: Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Japan
About 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practise animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians.
Young Buddhist monks (14K)
The official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane. As an official language, it has successfully become the lingua franca between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos. There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further subdialects. All Lao dialects are closely related to the languages spoken in Thailand, northern Myanmar and pockets of China's Yunnan Province.
Traditional culture in Laos has been heavily influenced by various strains of Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai cultures. The lowland Lao share the same ancestry as many Thai tribes, so the similarities between Lao and Thai culture are especially strong. This can be seen in Lao sculpture, classical music, dance-dramas and cuisine. Lao folk music is more indigenous, based around the khaen (a double row of bamboo reeds fitted into a hardwood sound box). Folk music is often accompanied by dancing or bawdy theatre. The focus of most traditional art has been primarily religious and includes wats (temples), stupas and several distinctively Lao representations of Buddha. The Lao remain skilful carvers and weavers, but traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing are declining arts.
Rice is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh ingredients such as vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo. Lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic tang, and various fermented fish concoctions are used to salt the food. Hot chillies, garlic, mint, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other seasonings. Dishes are often served with an accompanying plate of lettuce, mint, coriander, mung-bean sprouts, lime wedges or basil - diners then create their own lettuce-wrapped titbits.
Festivals in Laos are generally linked to agricultural seasons or historical Buddhist holidays. The lunar new year begins in mid-April and the entire country comes to a halt and celebrates. Houses are cleaned, offerings are made in wats and everyone gets dowsed by water. Bun Bang Fai (the rocket festival) takes place in May. It's an irreverent pre-Buddhist celebration with plenty of processions, music and dancing, accompanied by the firing of bamboo rockets to prompt the heavens to send rain. The week-long That Luang Festival in Vientiane in November has the whole repertoire of fireworks, candlelit processions and music.
Visas: Fifteen-day visas are now available for US$50 on arrival at Vientiane's Wattay International Airport and at the International Friendship Bridge at the Nong Khai border crossing between Laos and Thailand, though you'll need to meet a series of conditions to get one. Fourteen-day tour visas are generally issued through authorised travel agencies rather than embassies; Lao embassies occasionally issue visas to individuals, but there seem to be no hard and fast rules. Visas cost between US$40-100, and can be renewed for a further 15 days in Laos.
Health risks: cholera, dengue fever, hepatitis, Japanese encephalitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid
Time: UTC plus seven hours
Electricity: 220V
Weights & Measures: metric with local variations in rural areas (see the conversion table.)
Currency: the kip
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$1
- Restaurant meal: US$3
- Top-end meal: US$10
- Budget hotel (travelling alone): US$5-8
- Mid-range hotel (on a tour): US$15-25
- Top-end hotel: US$25-60
Staying in Vientiane will cost you more than accommodation elsewhere - expect to pay from $5 in the capital and about $1.75 in the country for a basic room. In a flasher tourist hotel you'll pay from about $25 a night, up to around $60. An average meal will set you back less than $2 - a cup of coffee costs about 20c, a bowl of rice noodle soup about 50c to $1 and a litre of beer about 70c. All up, you could get by on $10 a day in the big cities, $6 a day in the country, but that's for the rockiest of rock-bottom budgets. If you want air-con, hot water and foreign food, you'll be paying between $25 and $60 a day.
The Lao kip is the only legal currency, but Thai baht and US dollars are regularly accepted, particularly in the cities. Often you'll be asked for kip for cheap purchases, baht for mid-range buys, and dollars if you want something expensive. In Vientiane you'll be able to change most major currencies, but in the country you should stick to US dollars or baht - you may also have trouble with travellers' cheques outside the capital. Banks will give you a better rate than moneychangers, and you'll get more for travellers' cheques than cash.
There's no need to tip in Laos, except at upscale restaurants where around 10% is expected. If you're buying things in markets or hiring a vehicle, always bargain; at shops it's usually worth a try. Keep it low-key: the Lao are generally gentle hagglers.
The best time to visit is between November and February - during these months it rains least and isn't too hot. If you're heading up into the mountains, May and July can also be pleasant. Roads can be washed out during rainy season (July to October), but there's plenty of river travel. Peak tourist months are December to February and during August, although there are relatively few visitors at any time.
Attractions
Vientiane
The capital city and seat of government sits on a bend in the Mekong River amidst fertile alluvial plains. Despite its chequered past, Vientiane (pronounced 'Wieng Chan' by the locals) is a laid-back city with a number of interesting wats and lively markets. The most important national monument in Laos is Pha That Luang (the Great Sacred Stupa), which is a symbol of both Buddhism and Lao sovereignty. Other sights of interest include Wat Pha Kaew, a former royal temple which is now a museum; Wat Si Saket, the oldest temple in Vientiane; and the Morning Market, a sprawling collection of stalls which operate from 6 am to 6 pm. Wat Xieng Khuan is a collection of compelling Buddhist and Hindu sculptures located in a meadow, 24km (15mi) south of Vientiane.
Serene Buddhist statue, Wat Pha Kaew (6K)
Vientiane has around 10 top-end hotels and as many guesthouses, many of them moderately expensive, but plenty of lower-priced rooms have become available in the last few years. Most of the accommodation is in central Vientiane. You can eat at cafes, street stalls, beer halls or restaurants, offering everything from rice noodles to filet mignon. For good Lao meals, try the Dong Palan Night Market on the east bank of the Nong Chan ponds.
Vientiane is not the illicit entertainment palace it was in the early 1970s: brothels are now prohibited, the marijuana stands have disappeared from the markets and beer has replaced opium as the nightly drug of choice. Entertainment ranges from live music and discos - usually electrified Lao folk music or Western pop - to Thai, Chinese, Indian and even Bulgarian films. Tribal crafts, fabrics, jewellery and furniture are all good buys in Vientiane.
This 'city' is just barely waking from a long slumber brought on by decades of war and revolution. Luang Prabang has only 16,000 residents and few concessions to 20th-century living, save for infrequent electricity and a few cars and trucks. Rush hour occurs when school students are let out and the streets fill with bicycles.
Its main tourist attractions are its historic temples - 32 of the original 66 built before French colonisation still stand - and its lovely setting encircled by mountains at the confluence of the Khan and Mekong rivers. Sights include the Royal Palace Museum, Wat Xieng Thong and Wat Wisunlat. Just 25km (15.5mi) along the Mekong River are the famous Pak Ou caves, some of which are filled with Buddha images; 29km (18mi) south of the town are the beautiful Kuang Si waterfalls.
Plain of Jars
The mysterious Plain of Jars is an undeveloped area near Phonsavan in Xieng Khuang Province where huge jars of unknown origin are scattered, the biggest weighing as much as six tonnes (6.6 tons). The jars have been fashioned from solid stone, which doesn't seem to have come from the area. Many of the smaller jars have been taken away by collectors, but there are still several hundred in the five major groups. Thong Hai Hin, the biggest and most accessible site, has two pavilions and restrooms built for the crown prince, as well as the largest jar on the plain.
Kids with fighting beetles, Xieng Khuang Province (22K)
Ho Chi Minh Trail
For those interested in war history, the Ho Chi Minh Trail is a network of dirt paths and gravel roads running parallel to the Laos-Vietnam border. The trail was used by the North Vietnamese in the Vietnam War and by the Viet Minh against the French in the 1950s. Although the North Vietnamese denied the existence of the trail, and the USA denied bombing it, 1.1 million tons of explosives were dropped on the area between 1965 and '69, as well as massive quantities of herbicides. The trail is fairly remote, so there's been little in the way of tidying up: you'll see helicopters, fighter planes and a whole heap of other war junk. The closest town is Sepon, about 600km (370mi) south-east of Vientiane. Sepon was flattened during the war, and its now little more than a collection of shacks. You can get there by bus from Savan.
Bolaven Plateau
The Bolaven Plateau is a fertile area where Laven tribespeople grow some of the most highly-regarded coffee in the world. Fruit, cardamom and rattan are also grown here. The plateau is a centre of Mon-Khmer culture, Alak, Katu, Ta-oy and Suay villages in the area. Katu and Alak groups live in circles of thatched houses and are known for their yearly buffalo sacrifice, the centrepiece of some pretty spectacular ceremonies. Alak, Katu and Lawae women traditionally tattooed their faces, but this custom is dying out. The plateau also has some lovely waterfalls: Taat Lo plunges into a large pool which is gorgeous for swimming.
Due to the underdeveloped tourist infrastructure in Laos, there are virtually no organised activities. For the adventurous and resourceful, this can be a real boon. The hilly nature of the country makes it perfect trekking territory, though overnight camping is not allowed; ask around towns for a local guide. Mountain-biking is the next best way to take advantage of the terrain; there are bikes for higher in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. On Don Khon, an island in the Mekong River, there's an interesting walk across the southern tip of the island, which offers the chance to see Irrawaddy dolphins in the late afternoon between December and May.
There are flights from Vientiane's Wattay airport to Bangkok, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Phnom Penh, Singapore, Yangon (Rangoon) and Guangzhou and Kunming in China. There is a US$5 departure tax. In 1998 Lao Aviation commenced services from Luang Prabang to Chang Mai in Thailand. Flights leave every Thursday, and travellers planning to arrive from Thailand will need to organise a Laotian visa in advance as they cannot be obtained on arrival at Luang Prabang.
It is now legal for non-Thai foreigners to cross the Mekong into Laos at the following points: Nong Khai (near Vientiane), Nakhon Phanom (opposite Tha Khaek), Chiang Khong (opposite Huay Xai) and Mukdahan (opposite Savannakhet). Use of the much celebrated Australian-built bridge spanning the Mekong at Nong Khai is hampered by controls on foreign-registered vehicles, but individual travellers should experience nothing more harrassing than a slight delay. There is a land border crossing to Thailand at Chong Mek-Ubon Ratchathani, but you must have a visa valid for entry via Chong Mek and Pakse arranged in advance. It's possible to cross to or from Vietnam via Lao Bao if you have a valid Vietnamese visa. Entry to Laos is also possible from China's Yunnan Province at Boten.
The road system is relatively undeveloped outside Vientiane (though it is getting better), so even relatively short distances take a long time to cover. Bus services are limited to the areas around provincial centres; long-distance buses are rare. Arranging rides with trucks carrying cargo or trucks converted into passenger carriers is an acceptable form of travelling long distances. The alternative mode of getting around is river transport. Rivers are the true highways of Laos; the main thoroughfares are the Mekong, Nam Ou, Nam Khan, Nam Tha, Nam Ngum and Se Don. For long journeys, catch diesel river ferries which often have rudimentary accommodation on board or areas for sleeping on deck. For shorter trips it's usually best to hire a river taxi or, in the upper Mekong, a speedboat.
There are a few taxis in the larger towns, plenty of three-wheeled motorcycles and, for shorter distances, pedicabs. Bargaining skills will be required. Small 100cc motorbikes can be rented in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Savannakhet. Bicycles can be rented only in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
Pedicab, samlor & moped, Thanon Si Muang, Savannakhet (19K)
- Contemporary Laos: Studies in the Politics & Society of the Lao People's Democratic Republic edited by Martin Stuart-Fox.
- Laos: Beyond the Revolution edited by Joseph Zasloff & Leonard Unger.
- History of Laos by Maha Sila Viravong.
- The Ravens: Pilots of the Secret War of Laos, by Christopher Robbins, details US involvement in Laos during the Vietnam War.
- Air America: The Story of the CIA's Secret Airlines, also by Robbins, focuses on the infamous gun and drug-running activities of the CIA in Laos.
- Tragic Mountains: The Hmong, the Americans and the Secret Wars for Laos, 1942-1992, by Jane Hamilton-Merritt, follows the Hmong's successive struggles against the Japanese, the Viet Minh, the Pathet Lao and the North Vietnamese.
- The Politics of Heroin in Southeast Asia, by Alfred W McCoy, covers the history, politics and economics of opium in Laos.
Travellers' Reports
- Take the subWWWay to Laos
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