LAOS

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

Cambodia/Laos border: travellers are advised not to attempt the crossing on the Mekong. The border officials are quite strict about this and bribes are out of the question. Especially do not discuss your intent to do so with owners of guest houses.
Peter Leth, USA (Mar 99)

Most travel agents in Khao San Road Bangkok are charging around 1200 baht for a two week visa. At the Laos Embassy in Bangkok a one month visa costs most nations 750 baht, with a two day wait. Or for an extra 300 baht they will give it to you as soon as possible (mine took one hour).
Visa extension in Vientiane costs $1 a day and takes a few hours.
Dave Fuller, UK (Mar 99)

Travellers should be aware that the Lao government is very strict on the æinform enterÆ and æinform leaveÆ checkpoint stamps in Luang Prabang. I met numerous travellers who were ignorant of this necessity and all were fined. Savannakhet in the south, however, is a different story. Local police had no idea where to obtain the stamps, nor did anybody else for that matter.
Fleur Kiley, Australia (Feb 99)

In the Vientiane Times (current 21/11/98) we found an interesting article which announced a new border crossing between Laos and Thailand. It is at Chiang Saen - Tonpheung.
Carol Wiley & Peter Thornton (Jan 99)

Just returned from four weeks in Laos. With the 'Visit Laos Year 1999', the government has 'relaxed' the visa requirements. You can now get a visa for only US$30 from the Friendship Bridge (not US$50 as it was in Sept 98). Also, when filling in the entry/departure card, if you indicate you will be staying 28 days, they will give you a 30 day visa (technically, the US$30 visa is for 15 days). If you say you are staying only 14 days then you will only be granted a 15 day visa.
Shane Noyce, Australia (Jan 99)

You can get a visa for China from the Chinese Embassy in Vientiane. You need a photograph, US$ cash only ($30 for Americans, $25 for French, $12 for Italians, etc). You will receive your visa three opening days later. If you are in a hurry, you can pay an extra charge of $30 (visa same day), $20 (visa one day later) or $10 (visa two days later). The Chinese Embassy is open from 9 am to 11 am, Monday to Friday.
Gerard Ferlin, France (Jan 99)

The Lao Embassy in Ramkamhaeng Road in Bangkok will issue 30 day tourist visas for 1050 baht. It takes three days for the visa to be processed, or you can pay an extra 300 baht and it will be ready the same day. Visa applications must be submitted during morning office hours and passports are to be collected in the afternoons. Although we held valid visas, travel permits (official stamps on a piece of paper, kept in the passport) were still required everywhere we went except Vientiane, where they looked at us blankly and told us repeatedly that only a visa is required to travel around Laos! The travel permits were free and easy to obtain, except in Luang Prabang, where the officials take it a lot more seriously if you have been there longer than 24 hours without getting a stamp.

There are three immigration checkpoints in Luang Prabang and depending on how you arrive and leave depends on which one you should go to. If you fly in to or out of Luang Prabang, there is an immigration checkpoint at the airport; if you arrive/leave by boat, the checkpoint is near the pier where the slow boats dock; if you arrive/leave by bus (road), the checkpoint is opposite the Rama Hotel. For example, if you arrive by boat and leave by bus, you should get your arrival stamp at the checkpoint near the pier (if you arrive late, after it has closed, make sure you go early the next day - it is open Saturday and Sunday from 8 to 10 am only), and your departure stamp at the checkpoint opposite the Rama Hotel (closed weekends), before going to the bus terminal. The easiest way to find out what stamps you are supposed to have is to ask other tourists (although most will be just as confused as you are!) or the owner of your guesthouse, as they can get into trouble if they have guests who do not have the appropriate stamps.
Emily Moller, Thailand (Jan 99)

As of 1 September 1998 the Laos Embassy in Bangkok will only receive visa applications in the morning from 8 am until noon. Passport pickup is from 1 pm until 4 pm. Normal visa applications take three working days but for 300 baht extra they can be processed on the same day.
Carol Wiley & Peter Thornton, Australia (Jan 99)

Crossing overland into Laos from Nong Khai via the Friendship Bridge just became a little less expensive as the fee for a 15-day tourist visa was recently lowered from $50 to $30 (US dollars, cash only). Oddly, if one decides to cross the border on weekends or weekdays between noon and 2 pm the fee rises one US dollar to $31. The visa applications are processed on the spot and are generally hassle free. Just fill out the required document and attach one passport photo along with $30 or $31. This does not of course include the 20 baht entrance fee one must also pay to actually enter Laos, which is collected as you leave immigration. When leaving Laos via the Friendship Bridge, one must also pay an exit fee, payable in either baht or kip. I would recommend paying in kip because even at offical exchange rates, paying 1,100 kip is much more affordable than paying the 20 baht immigration charges.
Cangzhongyuan, Japan (Jan 99)

Laotian visas are easily obtained from the Laos Embassy in Bangkok - the address is set out in earlier letters. It cost me 1350 baht and was done on the same day. It is 1050 baht for next day service, but taking into account the cost of making a return trip and the time involved, the extra 300 baht was well spent. I suggest getting to the embassy around 11-11.30am; the visa should be ready around 2pm. There is not much to do in the area surrounding the embassy, but if you have some spare cash there is a cheap golf driving range and a more expensive pool hall across the road.
Gareth Sage, Australia (Nov 98)

Route 13 between Vientiane and Luang Prabang has been paved completely; it is now a smooth ten hour ride, and the scenery is sensational. I had the impression that it is also safe, because I only saw three or four government soldiers on the way. However, I was there in April, before the wet season, and I wonder what the road would be like after some rain.
Johannes van der Heide, The Netherlands (Nov 98)

You can get Laotian visas easily and quickly at the Laos Embassy in Yangon ($38 for Europeans, valid 28 days). There is no need to leave your passport with them. You just need to fill in two forms and attach photographs. We went on a Friday morning and the visas were ready by Monday.

Be careful at the Chong Mek border as it is very messy. The Thai and Lao border posts are difficult to see. We missed the Thai immigration going in and out - fortunately our Thai visas were still valid! We also met a couple of French people who missed the Lao Immigration and didn't have their visas stamped. They were checked at Pakse Airport, asked to pay a fine of $100 (starting price $1000) and forced to go back to Chong Mek to have their passports stamped.
Jacques & Liliane Chapon, France (Oct 98)

In Vientiane, we had to extend our visa. It was done without any problems within five minutes at the cost of $1 per day.
Getting a stamp from local officials when crossing provinces is becoming less and less important. We had to do it on the Mekong River from Hue Xai to Luang Prabang. We travelled to the far north, near the border of China (Mung Sing) by road and did not pass an immigration office once. They really don't bother much any more.
Eric Branckaert, Cameroon (Sep 98)

As well as Lao Bao, you can also now cross the border at Cao Treo. This is a much better way, and is so much more scenic. From Vientiane, we took all forms of transport to the border, and then paid a guy with an old American jeep to take us down the mountains, where we were met by a mate of his who then drove us to Vinh.
Lee Walker - Australia (Jun 98)

Originally we were told by the US based Laos Embassy that we'd need the following items in order to obtain a visa upon arrival at the international airport in Vientiane:
1. Return ticket;
2. Bank statement (with a minimum of $400 in bank);
3. Hotel confirmation fax; and
4. Local sponsor.
Those four items, plus $50, were supposed to be what it takes to get in. In reality, all we needed was the $50. We filled out the visa application upon arrival, paid the money, got the passports stamped and walked right in. Apparently, the requirements for entry are being eased as they ready themselves for the official 'Visit Laos Year, 1999'.
Ron Lish (Jun 98)

Lao visa questions come up here constantly. Here's the story.

People going directly to Vientiane by air or via the 'Friendship Bridge' from Nong Khai have two options. #1 (cheaper, more work): get a visa in advance from an embassy or consulate in the region. Most people will go to the embassy in BKK (see below) or the consulate in Khon Kaen or Udorn. In March '98 a 30 day 'visit visa' cost me about 1200 Baht there - at the current exchange rate that's about US$30. You get your passport back the next working day.
#2 (easier, more expensive): get an arrival visa on the Lao side of the bridge or at Wattay airport. It costs $50 for 15 days and can be extended.

Those entering Lao by land at crossings OTHER than the 'Friendship Bridge' need to get a visa in advance. (People are occasionally able to 'buy' a visa at the other crossings, but why gamble?) Here you also have two options. #1: An embassy or consulate, just as above. #2: A Thai travel agency. There are many in BKK and other Thai cities that will get Lao visas. They cost about $60 and take 1-5 working days.

For those doing the embassy run in BKK, be aware that the Lao embassy is now on Ramkhamhaeng Soi 39, in Bang Kapi. (Actually it's on a 'sub-soi' that branches off Soi 39.) That's just west of Ramkhamhaeng University, about 10-12km from central BKK. It's a bit of a ride, and a little difficult to find. (It might be helpful to have someone write "Lao embassy Ramkhamhaeng Soi 39" in Thai.)

'Roxanne' (answering a Lao visa question) posted an idea for getting there that's so good it's worth repeating. She wrote: "...you can go by taxi but the cheaper option is to go by canal boat. Take a boat from near Democracy monument to Ramkhamhaeng, you have to change half way and continue on to Ramkhamhaeng but get off at Wat Teplila. From there a motorbike taxi will take you to the embassy for 20 Baht. There and back only costs 66 Baht and it's a lot quicker than in the traffic..."
David - The Thorn Tree (Jun 98)

It is possible to get a 15 day visa at the International Entry Points (Friendship Bridge, Ban Houei Xai, Chong Mek). Visa costs US$50 plus Baht taxes.
To extend your visa costs US$3 per day. You can get the extension at the Tourism Authority of Laos (Lanatour), 08/2 Lane Xang Ave, Vientiane (Phone: 85621, 212 013), near the Morning Market. Issue takes one day.
Check in/out: Lao authorities require you to check in and out of the cities in northern regions (checks are no longer required in the southern part). To check in, you have to go to the Immigration Office at the Police Department. If you don't check, you have to pay a fee (US$5 per day uncovered).
Piergiorgio Pescali - Italy (Mar 98)

Don't bother getting a Lao visa in Bangkok if you intend going overland. We crossed from Chiang Kong in the Golden Triangle to Huay Xai across the Mekong. The visa was arranged by the Ban-tam-ila Guesthouse (other guesthouses and Ann Tour do the same). All they require now is a photocopy of your passport by 6pm and you can cross at 8am the next day. No application forms are filled out and passport photos are not needed. The cost was B1700, paid on the Lao side. There is even a guide who drives you to the ferry crossing in a nice new air-conditioned van and puts you on the boat. Once in Laos the immigration stamps are required upon entry to every province. A US$10 fine applies if a stamp is missing.
Nigel & Simon Hall - Australia (Mar 98)

Laos visa in Yangon: issued on the spot for US$48 (Austrian citizens).
Laos/Thai border at Thakhek/Nakhon Phanom: while the guidebook says this border is open weekdays only, we crossed it on a Sunday.
Roland (Mar 98)

It is now possible to organise your own visa for Laos in Bangkok. It saves quite some time and money. We managed to get a 30 day visa in 24 hours, applying in person. Most European nationals pay B750 plus B300 administration fee. US residents pay B800 plus fee.
The Lao Embassy in Bangkok has recently moved to 502/1-3 Ramkamhaeng, Soi 39, Bankapi. Phone: (02) 539 6667. Working hours are 8 to 11am and 1 to 4pm. The easiest way to reach the embassy is to take a river taxi from democracy monument to WTC and change there for a taxi to Wat Tep Lila (B13). From Wat Tep Lila take a taxi over the bridge to the embassy (B50).
We crossed the border in Chong Mek. From Ubon Ratchatani, we took a bus to Phibun Mangsahan. It took us an hour and the trip cost B20. Customs in Chong Mek work from 8am to 12 noon and 1 to 4.30pm. If you cross the border outside these hours or on Sunday, the entry fee for Laos is double. Normal fee is B35.
Laurens Van Thillo & Eva Van Marcke - Belgium (Mar 98)

Visas: very easy to get everywhere, but where you get them makes a huge difference to your budget. By far the cheapest and fastest is Bangkok where the travel agents can apply for all visas at the same time (Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam), thus you only need to wait for as long as the longest processing time for one single visa. If you're going on to China, you should really get the visa in Bangkok as it only adds one to two days waiting time. Elsewhere the visas are more expensive and you'll have to wait for five days.
Lao visa: you can get them on the border between Nong Khai and Vientianne, but you'll have to pay US$50 cash. In Bangkok you have the choice of getting a 15 day visa for US$23 or a 30 day visa for US$40. At the border you'll only get a 15 day visa, but they are easy to extend for US$3 a day in Vientiane. I overstayed my visa and wasn't charged anything when exiting at Lao Bao. Visas are very expensive in Danang (Vietnam) (US$60).
Cambodia visa: I got mine on the spot in Vientianne for US$20. They told me to come back in three days, but I asked if they couldn't do it a bit faster. I met people who got theirs in 20 minutes at the embassy in Hanoi, also for US$20, while in Saigon they will tell you to go to a travel agent.
Avoid Chinese New Year. They won't do anything for up to ten days. The Vietnamese embassy in Vientianne closed for ten days so I couldn't get my entry point changed. Thus I couldn't enter until ten days after my visa had started running.
Hanne Finholt - Norway (Mar 98)

The Laos government has imposed an extra cost so that a 15 day visa from any Thai border costs a whopping US$60. This $60 fee is much higher than that of a 30 day visa obtained from virtually any tourist cafΘ in Bangkok (a 30 day tourist visa cost about US$20 as of two weeks ago). Also, visa extensions in Laos are now only available from Vientiane and only if you apply with at least ten days left on your tourist visa. One more thing, make sure you get your tourist stamps. Most officials will turn a blind eye to missed stamps, but we met one girl in Pakbeng who missed a stamp in northern Laos - the office was closed when she went to get stamped and she therefore missed it. Anyway, when attempting to leave Pakbeng for the slow boat heading for the Thai border, a grumpy official informed her that she must return up north for the missed stamp. Furthermore, she was told she had to pay a US$300 fine - money she didn't have. As a result, the officials in Pakbeng seized her belongings and sent her to Thailand to have money wired from home, after which she had to return to Pakbeng, pay the fine and then return to northern Laos for the missed stamp.
Suzanne Zyla - Canada (Mar 98)

You can get visas for Laos at the border for US$50 but if you get there between 12pm and 2pm and 4pm and 6pm, visas cost US$51. Luckily we arrived just before 12pm as my companion and I only had US$100 between us and would have been sent back to Thailand to change more money. They do not accept any currencies other than US$.
Linda Bennett (Mar 98)

The application form for an on-arrival visa states that three passport-size photos are required. However, it seems that the number of photos required is up to the discretion of the immigration officer. Only one photo was taken from me, whilst two were taken from the person in front and none from the person behind me.
Andrew Ming - Australia (Mar 98)

Visas to Laos can now be obtained at a number of different agencies in Thailand but most seem to be charging a set US$60. It was cheaper to get one in Chiang Mai if you could wait 5-6 days and paid in Baht. The agencies charging US$60 will get you a visa by the next day.
Sandra & Andy Neeve - UK (Feb 98)

China - Laos border crossing Mohan-Boten: according to some travellers I've met in Laos and China, you can bargain hard and maybe obtain a Lao transit visa (7 days) at the border. Somebody was sent back to Kunming and requested to apply at the local Lao consulate. I hadn't a visa stamped on my passport but only an invitation letter from a Lao tourist agency (written in Lao! Only my name and passport data were in Latin script). The Chinese customs officer, who was very friendly, told me that maybe the Lao officers would send me back, so he didn't stamp my Chinese visa and suggested that I check on the Lao side if the letter was enough to get the visa. I walked through the border, got a 14 day tourist visa (US$30) and walked back to the Chinese side to have my Chinese visa stamped. The tuk-tuk between the two sides of the border cost 1000 kip; the walk took 15 minutes (1km?)
Marco Del Corona - Italy (Feb 98)

Ann Tour (in Chiang Rai) is a great place to get a visa for Laos. We faxed copies of our passports two days in advance (one is sufficient) and could have had the staff accompany us over to Laos that day to get our visas for only 1700 Baht for a 14 day visa (the price hasn't gone up in the past year) but instead chose to wait. They were very accommodating and watched our packs the next morning until we were ready for them to take us to the pier.
Virginia Porter - USA (Feb 98)

A Laos visa now costs US$35 at the embassy in Phnom Penh, but then you will get a visit visa which allows you to stay for one month. A good deal since it's becoming quite hard to get visa extensions in Laos, apart from Vientiane. It takes one day to get your visa.
Joris Postema & Kim den Boer - Netherlands (Jan 98)

There is a notice at the immigration table at the airport, Luang Prabang, that tells all visitors to report to the main immigration office in town to register. This note is also in several guest houses. Upon arrival at the immigration office they didn't even look at our passports and just waved us away.
The most difficult thing about travelling to Laos is finding accurate, up to date visa information. Our travel agent told us that it was no problem now: 60 day visa for $30. But a week later we learnt we would have to be part of a tour to get a visa. We tried to get information but there were conflicting stories. So we got an introduction to Lao tour, not really a tour as it only gives you a 15 day visa, 2 nights overpriced accommodation (usually just $10 a night), and a border pickup that never materialised, all for $165 - a rip off. The latest information is that you can get a 15 day visa at the border for US$50, no questions asked.
Nigel Marsh & Helen Rose - Australia (Dec 97)

One can get a two week tourist visa at the airport in Vientiane.
Dan Michaelis - Israel (Dec 97)

In Luang Prabang we came across something you might be interested in. We naively tried to get some US dollars travellers cheques cashed into dollars rather than Lao Kip as we needed to pay for a flight at Lao Aviation. As the LP mentions, the bank tells you that they can't do this. They sent us back to Lao Aviation to ask us if they will take Kip for the ticket instead. 'No' was the answer, 'return to the bank.' We got back: closed for lunch! The bank reopened, they told us to return to Lao Aviation and collect a 'certificate' that proved we needed dollars to pay for the flight; our booking details were not enough. We then trudged back to the office where we got the certificate, back to the bank where we eventually changed the money and then back to Lao Aviation again to pay for the ticket. By this point, two and a half hours had passed.
Anyway, the tip here is obvious. Ask for the certificate when you book the flight if you're intending to try and get some dollars from somewhere.
Simon Lynch, UK (Jan 99)

The Royal Palace Museum has new opening times: Monday to Friday, 8 am to 4 pm, Saturday, 8 am to 11 am and 2 pm to 4 pm, and Sunday, 8 am to 11 am only. Admission is 3000 kip.
Carol Wiley & Peter Thornton, Australia (Jan 99)

Apparently the best place for foreign exchange in Vientiane is the Banque pour le Commerce Exterieur. Its opening hours are 8.30am-3.30pm.

There are numerous places to hire bikes in Luang Prabang, and it is definitely the best way to get around. The bikes generally have to be returned in the early evening, which gives you plenty of time to explore. You should test the brakes and seat before leaving the place, as sometimes various adjustments are necessary first. Also, make sure your bike lock works.

The market in Luang Prabang is a great place to buy material for a traditional Lao skirt. All you have to do is take it to a tailor where, for a very small fee, they will measure you and make it up, ready to be picked up the next day. It costs less than US$10 in total, and they are great skirts to wear, particularly if you are spending any time in Laos, as it is far better and more respectful to the Lao people to wear these skirts, rather than short skirts or shorts.
Kate Swinburn & Carlos Rodriguez, Australia (Dec 98)

1999 is Visit Laos year. The new Vientiane airport terminal is due to open soon.
Steve Newcomer, USA (Dec 98)

Postage from Laos (main post office in Vientiane) is one of the cheapest in Asia.

Try and go with a group to Phonsovan, as the expense of hiring a guide and car to the Three Jar sites will be much more reasonable. I went alone and could only manage the first site. There aren't many tourists milling around when you get there where you can form spontaneous groups as you can in other places.
Tony Stewart, New Zealand (Nov 98)

Be careful if you are considering travelling from Luang Nam Tha to Huay Xuia on the Thai border. We met a French-speaking Lao gentleman at the boat pier who told us that it would cost us 20,000 kip to go halfway, and a further 20,000 kip to complete the trip to Pak Tha (from which you can get a speedboat to Huay Xuai for 100 baht). This is wrong! When we got to the village where the boat drops you off, (I can't remember the name but it has no power and pretty poor food), we were directed to the only guesthouse where we met other travellers who had been stranded. No boats had been prepared to take them the rest of the way. They suggested the problem was due to the fact that there were only four of them, as they had been offered a ride for some exorbitant amount. Furthermore, the village was only about a third of the way to Pak Tha. After much haggling the following day, nine of us paid 30,000 kip each to Pak Tha (down from 40,000kip which the local boat organiser wanted to charge us). Luckily we had some baht and US$, because otherwise we would have been stranded. My tip is to make sure that there is a reasonably large group of you before you make the trip so that you don't get stranded: nine or ten seems ideal. Also, make sure that you have plenty of cash.

There are now 13 guesthouses in Vang Vieng, and competition appears to been keeping prices down.

The "baht-kip ladies" at the market in Luang Prabang are the place to change money (US$ and baht) as they offer much better rates than the banks. I don't know if it is legal, but it is carried out pretty openly. There are also some guys around the corner from the market that will change money.
Gareth Sage, Australia (Nov 98)

I highly recommend taking the slow boat between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, the border point to Thailand. The fast boat takes eight hours, offering nothing but a fast ride without any experiences. The riverboat (full of rice, locals and tourists) leaves early every day (between 8-9am) from both places and continues up or down the Mekong River all day, stopping only at night. Leaving from Huay Xai, the boat stops overnight in the small village, Pakbeng, which is halfway to Luang Prabang. The boat leaves early the next day at dawn, arriving in Luang Prabang in the evening. You should get your immigration stamp the next day. Travelling from Luang Prabang, you spend three days on the river and two nights amongst the locals in small undeveloped villages. It is a very special experience to stay overnight amongst the locals and try the local food which is very good. It is possible to sleep on the roof of the boat, but it is much better to stay in the village. Ask the boatmen for help if you have any problems, and remember to get your visa stamped on the way - the boatmen should wake you up if you sleep through. I never experienced any problems, but keep your money, passport, etc. close. Also, you should take plenty of water and food.
Thomas Kjerstein, Denmark (Nov 98)

The BCEL bank in Pakse is now by the river Sedon in a beautiful modern building not far from the ferries. Here you can change travellers' cheques (into dollars) with no commission.

A boat to Khong Island leaves Pakse every morning. The trip lasts about eight hours. It is pleasant but not too comfortable. Alternatively, the bus trip takes four hours, but one hour is very uncomfortable due to the condition of the road which is currently being upgraded; it should be finished by next year. There are quite a few hotels to choose from in Khong Island. The electricity in the village operates between 6-10pm.
Jacques & Liliane Chapon, France (Oct 98)

There's a new place for the public to access the internet in Vientiane. It's at the Lao Plaza Hotel and costs $2 for 10 minutes.
Patrick Abraham (Oct 98)

Savannakhet has serious water problems. The water is frequently turned off city-wide. Many travellers thought that the water problem was specific to their guest houses, and some even left their guest houses for this reason, only to find out that the entire town was without water. Guest house managers are likely to say that the water will be restored shortly. However, water is frequently off for 12 hours or more.
Nancy L Leonard, USA (no date)

In the last weeks of the dry season (March), dust and smoke can greatly reduce visibility and even make breathing a little difficult. Admittedly, there had been some unusually large-scale fires in Northern Thailand before we arrived in Laos, so the air may have been unusually bad. However, as an example of the conditions, the karsts near Vang Vieng were barely visible from the township (2km away), and there were flakes of ash falling in Luang Prabang. On some afternoons the smoke in the air made our eyes sting, though neither of us are particularly susceptible to that kind of irritation. It may be a trivial point, but photography was often out of the question.
Vang Vieng: there is a shop just east up the main street from the market that sells delightful town maps, coloured in pencil.
Josh Wilson, Australia (Aug 98)

Vang Vieng is becoming a real tourist spot. There are lots of new restaurants and guest houses opening.
Eric Branckaert, Cameroon (Sep 98)

The Lao Foreign Trade Bank had a notice up stating that they would not accept Mastercard.
David Boyall - Australia (Jun 98)

Japanese citizens currently living in Vientiane are running an Aikido dojo on Saturday evenings at the Youth Union building. Beginners are welcome.
Teresa Sobieszczyk - USA (May 98)

When cashing US$ travellers cheques at the bank (for purchasing air tickets), you require a permit from Lao Aviation authorising for the exact amount of the airfare. For example, we needed two air tickets from Luang Prabang to Huay Xia at US$46 each. Initially we were issued with only one authority for US$46, so we had to go back to Lao Air and then back to the bank again.
Chris Jules & Jean Bennett - Australia (Mar 98)

Luang Prabang: try to get there as early as you can. The guest houses fill up very quickly, but some of them will let budget travellers sleep in the lobby the first night if you arrive late.
Hanne Finholt - Norway (Mar 98)

Have just been to Pakse in southern Laos. The two-storey consumer morning market was destroyed in a devastating fire at 2am on Sunday, 11 January 1998. Yet on Monday morning the whole market moved to the banks of the Mekong and was trading successfully.
Monica Thom (Feb 98)

Yes! We saw the Irriwaddy dolphins! Contrary to the Planet, the best time to see them seems to be between 9 and 11am. We were there at around 9.30am and some fishermen took us to a rock in the middle of the Mekong from where we saw half a dozen of them, playing and hunting. At 10.15am they simply vanished.
Joris Postema & Kim den Boer - Netherlands (Jan 98)

At telephone offices, you have to pay for a minimum of 3 minutes. To the UK, this worked out to 8,000 kip.
Simon Aliwell & Paula Macnamara - UK (Oct 97)

Email can be accessed at V&T Business Services at 482/2-3 Samsenthai Road (Phone: 215 830; Fax 214 064; email: laocom@loxinfo.co.th). It is run by a very helpful American resident Mark Gordon. There is a similarly named business across the street which is not connected.
John & Alison Howie - New Zealand (no date)

River boat schedules on the Mekong between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang are variable due to river flow and the number of boats that are making the journey. There isnÆt always a boat leaving every day to Luang Prabang and most definitely not one leaving LP every day during the dry season.
Carl Zytowski (Feb 99)

Route 13 to Luang Prabang appears a lot safer. Military personnel will get on the bus at Kasi and stay on for approximately 20 km. A local told me that this was to do with the visit Laos year and the government's effort to clean up the bad areas.
Beware of Lao Aviation though! As a former pilot, I was horrified to see vapour leaking into the plane at 12,000 ft (I could not see the front of the plane it was so bad!) The plane leaked, rattled and made some very weird sounds. For US$55 one-way from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, it was very dodgy.
Shane Noyce, Australia (Jan 99)

The bus from Muang Xai to Luang Nam Tha leaves at 8 am but be sure to arrive early. It proved a popular bus and was full by 7.45 am, leaving us stranded and waiting for the next departure which didn't leave until 11 am. This appeared to be a common occurrence in northern Laos.

We quickly learnt that many forms of transport did not pass through the major towns. This meant that there would be two bus stations or boat landings on either side of town so making your way back to the station you had arrived at could leave you missing the transport for the day. In the north all transport seemed to run only during the day. A good indication of the latest it would leave, therefore, is to count back the hours the trip would take from sunset.

It is standard across Laos to charge 200 kip for the clean toilets at the bus stations.

Try to arrive in Chiang Khong with plenty of time to cross the river to Huay Xai before the border closes. This saves spending a night in both border towns for those with tight schedules and leaves you with plenty of time to organise onward travel in the morning.
Carol Wiley & Peter Thornton, Australia (Jan 99)

The road from Huay Xai up to Luang Nam Tha is an ordeal, but is to be recommended for its scenery and villages. A similarly wild road links Xieng Kok to Muang Sing.
Raymond Lae, UK (Dec 98)

There is a domestic departure tax of 300K per person. Also, don't expect flights to keep to their schedule; they come and go more or less as they please.
Kate Swinburn & Carlos Rodriguez, Australia (Dec 98)

Roads are open for tourist travel from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, and on up to the Chinese and Vietnamese borders.
Steve Newcomer, USA (Dec 98)

The roads are shocking and tediously slow for the distance covered. Regular utes and buses operate, but nearly all transport leaves around 8am. There is not much chance of getting anywhere after this.

Flying with Lao Aviation is the only practical means to get to Phonsovan/Xieng Khuang, but beware of the risks. If the weather is bad it could be dodgy, as I hear they have little navigational aids but a lot of hills! Whist Luang Prabang is cheaper to fly from, they nevertheless use the less reliable Chinese Y-7, rather than the larger Y-12 as they do from Vientiane. However, it is only 35 minutes one way from Vientiane, and the views are good.
Tony Stewart, New Zealand (Nov 98)

A bus or songthaew to Luang Prabang is 11,000kip. This seems strange as it is only 2,000 kip from Vientiane to Vang Vieng (and the distance is not much greater). However, this is the price the locals were charged as well.
Gareth Sage, Australia (Nov 98)

International flights to Laos cancelled: according to a story in today's Bangkok Post, Silk Air, Malaysia Air, China Yunnan Air, and even Lao Aviation have dropped all their international flight connections to/from Vientiane.
By the way, you can read a scaled-down version of the Bangkok Post at [www.bangkokpost.net/]. It's pretty interesting reading sometimes. Folks worried about traveling during the monsoon (a great time to go, I happen to think) can read the weather reports. Neutral Observer - The Thorn Tree (Jul 98)

Double pricing on buses, boats, planes, etc, seems to be becoming standard practice. In some cases, this is because the Lao Government subsidizes the transport system for Lao people.
Joanne Durham, Laos (Jun 98)

Luang Nam Tha: the bus station has moved. It is now south of the large covered food market and the early morning fresh food market.
The Nepalese road engineer in charge of upgrading the road to Xieng Kok took me on a tour of the road works and bridge building projects. The project is on schedule and due to be finished in 2000.
David Boyall - Australia (Jun 98)

The road from Savannakhet to Vientiane is now fully sealed, and takes six to seven hours by bus. The road from Vientiane to Luang Prabang is now quite safe, and the trip usually takes twelve hours, but we had Fangio for a bus driver, and it only took eight! That journey was a little bit hairy, especially around those tight corners!
Lee Walker - Australia (Jun 98)

As of 11 April 1998, Lao Aviation is flying directly from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang before the same plane goes on to Vientiane. This will make it possible to do a quick jaunt to the lovely Luang Prabang from the not so lovely Chiang Mai, and the new flight saves a trip to Vientiane. Of course, those who expect to fly 'directly' to Vientiane may find that their flight takes another hour, as mine did, because of the stop in Luang Prabang.
Teresa Sobieszczyk - USA (May 98)

Travellers are advised that serious concerns about the operations of Lao Aviation (particularly on domestic sectors), with regard to its safety standards and maintenance regime, have been raised recently. The Australian Embassy, along with other diplomatic missions and international organisations in Vientiane, has advised its personnel to limit travel on Lao Aviation to essential travel only. Australians who are required to travel within Laos may wish to defer their travel or consider alternate means of transportation.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade (Apr 98)

The road is paved all the way to Luang Prabang now, and most of the way further north as well. Everybody seems to be travelling by road these days. All the locals do, so there aren't many slow boats. The speedboats are a tourist rip-off, as they haven't figured out how to put people together to share the cost. Unless you get your own group together, you'll have to dig very, very deep into your wallet.
Hanne Finholt - Norway (Mar 98)

Lao Aviation are still living down to their reputation for last minute schedule changes, not to mention the standard hair-raising flights and bald tyres.
Rupert Baker - UK (Mar 98)

The expensive road transport price from Luang Nam Tha to Huay Xai (20,000 kip) reflects the extremely bad road conditions. Only one vehicle plies the route. Hence, the truck goes every second day. The alternative is to go by road to Muang Xai and Pakbeng, then speedboat to Huay Xai. This route will cost you much the same (and may involve backtracking for many travellers).
Gavin Roberts - Australia (Feb 98)

During our stay, Lao Aviation were particularly unhelpful - no guarantees of flights to anywhere. (One of our party was desperate to get to Bangkok quickly). A military post told us (and other travellers) that the airport closed during November and early December - during high-tourist season! The airport building closed mid-morning on a weekday.
Gavin Roberts - Australia (Feb 98)

We flew Laotian Airways and got the tickets from Saigon (93A Pasteur Street). We were able to fly Hanoi-Vientiane-Saigon. The Lao Aviation office in Saigon only accepts cash for the tickets, which are manually issued. The trick, when flying Laotian Airlines, is to confirm your flights religiously a few days (even a week) before departure. You have to go to a Lao Airlines office to do this. We saw credit card signs in the window of the Hanoi Laotian Airlines office. Credit cards are definitely accepted in Vientiane, even for domestic flights. The international flights are on new planes. The domestic flights are still on aging Russian or Chinese propeller planes. But we have no complaints re: the Vientiane-Luang Prabang flight. The views are spectacular. The Luang Prabang airport has a new control tower.
Heather Merriam (Jan 98)

While travelling up the Mekhong by speed boat from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng, the boat hit a 'standing wave' at 50km/h and snapped in half. Later we heard that six months ago there was a head on collision between two of these boats, killing five people. I advise travellers to avoid these boats.
Philip Roberts - Australia (Feb 99)

The safety situation in Laos seems to have improved. However, I heard about a bus in the south of the country that had been stopped by Khmer Rouge bandits from Cambodia who robbed everyone of their belongings.
Johannes van der Heide, The Netherlands (Nov 98)

Please be aware that obtaining a police report in Laos can be a long and testing process. Distressed and frustrated travellers continue to approach the Embassy, claiming that their simple request for a police report has been rejected. It seems to be a common practice for Lao police not to issue a report until they have thoroughly investigated the case. Such cases include robbery and accidents. Travellers who expect to be issued with a police report on the spot, particularly outside of Vientiane, will be sorely disappointed. Getting frustrated and aggressive, a natural reaction in a situation such as this, will not help matters. You will stand a much better chance if you are courteous, respectful and patient. Remember, crime has become more common since the devaluation of the Kip, so be careful with your belongings.
Melissa Brown, Consular Assistant, Australian Embassy, Laos (Sep 98)

In Vang Vieng a Frenchman who is running a restaurant there told us about an incident on route 13 near Kasi where eight expatriates were shot dead and robbed. One of the foreigners had carried a large amount of money. They had been travelling in a mini-van driven by a Lao who was left unharmed. Additionally, the popular rafting on tubes on the local river seems to be quite risky. The French told about several deadly accidents. He believed that the Laotian government had successfully kept the incidents out of the media to avoid negative impacts on tourism. I wonder why the killing and the accidents have not become public via tourists or other foreigners?
Walter Endl, Austria (Aug 98)

I was lucky enough to have some spare days up my sleeve at Phonsavan. It's quite a muddle there. Route 7 west of Phonsavan is off limits. The authorities refuse to allow people to board vehicles going through there. Monsoon season marks the beginning of bandit/rebel activity there. People are getting killed. This information comes from a man working with the Bomb Advisory Group. He's been in the region for three years. He is also adamant that visitors should not buy any war relics as this encourages local people, especially children, to dig up and handle live cluster bombs, bomblets, grenades, etc, despite their educational campaign. I guess the idea of extra money outweighs other concerns. The cluster bombs are sold as war relics, while the bomblets are turned into kerosene candles. The grenades become cigarette lighters.

Also, visiting the Plain of Jars sites individually is definitely not allowed. A Danish friend was arrested at a checkpoint after hiring a tuk-tuk to take her out there. She was detained for several hours at the police station before 'donating' 5000 Kip in return for her release. The official line is that only sanctioned tour groups can go to protect visitors.
Aaron Mowe - Australia (Aug 98)

Scam in Vang Vieng, near Vientiane, at Tham Xang Cave, approximately 15km north of Vang Vieng: we had 1,000,000 kip in baht and dollars stolen from us here! This is how the scam goes: you meet this friendly guy who takes you to the other side of the river then guides you through these nice rice fields, straight into this really magnificent cave. He guides you really deep into the cave. At the last part you have to swim through these very cool tiny flooded passages until the way is blocked by a huge limestone rock. Of course, you leave your stuff on a rock before you start swimming. On the way back, you pick up your stuff which still looks the same as before. You get out of the cave, pay the man 7000 kip and give him a bonus as you are really amazed at the wonderful trip. But what really happens is that while you are swimming, a second man enters the cave and goes through your stuff, taking out most of the cash and bails out before you come back.
Raf Aerts & Eva November, Belgium (Jul 98)

After two incidents in Vang Vieng, a popular tourist attraction three hours north of Vientiane, and with the possibility that more will occur in the future, I feel that travellers to the region, particularly women travelling alone, need to be warned. The incidents in question involved the attempted rape and successful robbery of a Canadian woman and a rape of a New Zealand woman by three young men. Both attacks happened across the river from the town of Vang Vieng, one in the early afternoon and one after sunset. Travellers to this area should be aware of these attacks and not walk unaccompanied by the river, nor should they be in this area after dark. The men involved still haven't been caught.
Melissa Brown - Consular Assistant,
Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade, Australia (17 June 98)

Hotel theft seems to be on the rise. I met several travellers who had had things stolen from their locked hotel rooms. I stayed at a guest house in Nong Khiaw and had money and a camera stolen from my locked room. In this case, the thief could only have come in through the front door: there was no sign of disturbance and neither had the lock been broken. According to the Nong Khiaw police, this had happened at least five times in this particular guesthouse.
Joanne Durham, Laos (Jun 98)

In Vientiane, watch out for broken street paving over the sewers - at night you could easily have a nasty accident - instant infection guaranteed!
Chris Jules & Jean Bennett - Australia (Mar 98)

We met an English trio (one a Lao speaker) at Pakbeng who had an unfortunate experience. They were travelling north up the river and had caught a slow boat. They advised that when they had travelled about an hour from Luang Prabang the driver stopped the boat in the middle of the river and demanded more money. They had no option but to pay. In addition it took them one and a half days to travel from Luang Prabang to Pakbeng. They apparently made an unscheduled stop at a small village on the way and stayed there for the night.
Stephen Yates - Australia (Sep 97)

The truck ride between Huay Xai and Luang Nam Tha was a highlight of my trip. Almost no logging has taken place here so the valleys were incredibly beautiful, even more so than the slow boat ride on the Mekong to Luang Prabang. A village in the middle has a guest house, though I regrettably did not stop there.

Another highlight of my time in Laos was seeing the dolphins around Si Phan Don. We were out on the water between 1 and 2 pm and we saw them passing by our boat so often I simply couldnÆt keep count of how many times the pod surfaced. The people we got the boat from told us they can be seen any time of the day so anyone who wants to see them should go for it. Although itÆs easiest from Don Det, you can see the dolphins even if you are staying in Muang Khong. PonÆs arranges tours aimed specifically for the dolphins, but these are expensive. We took one of the standard waterfall tours (available from several places).
Tim Bewer, USA (Apr 99)

Vang Vieng, on Route 13 between Vientiane and Luang Prabang would be one of the most underrated destinations in Laos. This beautiful town is a must for travellers on their way north. The guide book notes refer to the caves in the area as the main attraction. Here is another great activity that I undertook: I hired a tyre (inflatable tube) and then took a tuk tuk about 9km out of the town (on the road to Luang Prabang). The tuk tuk driver dropped me off at the side of the road - the Nam Song River was 100m on the left-hand side. Then the adventure began. Sitting on the tube in the river, the current flowing about jogging speed, I enjoyed four hours of spectacular scenery. The mountains and their spectacular cliffs follow the course of the river, I passed numerous water buffalo, local fishermen and women and enjoyed one of the best afternoons imaginable. And best of all, it was cheap! The tyre tube cost 1000 kip to hire and the tuk tuk was 8000 kip between three people. I would highly recommend this adventure to anyone who wants to sit back and get a real image of Laos.
Fleur Kiley, Australia (Feb 99)

Laos now has a well developed rock climbing area. We (a team of six professional rock climbers) just retuned after spending a month developing an area near Luang Prabang. Sport climbing has become very popular in recent years and now hundreds of climbers flock to Rai Ley Beach in Thailand to climb each year. The area that we developed is across the Mekong river from the very famous Pak Ou caves. The small village of Ban Pak Ou serves as a base and the locals are ready to show any visiting climbers the routes for a small fee. The area should only be visited by experienced rock climbers and has routes for all levels, although most of the routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range (US grading system). There are over 20 bolted routes on great rock, and it is well worth a visit if you are in the area. Please be respectful towards the local villagers and ask permission to climb. From Luang Prabang it is a one hour boat ride up to the cliff which is located where the Nam Ou river merges with the Mekong.
Will Hair, USA (Feb 99)

Sitting at the riverside next to Namsong (excellent places to stay for an average price of US$16 per room), travellers and locals can enjoy a great show: thousands and thousands of bats fly out of the Kars mountains in the most fascinating formations. While enjoying the sunset, it is great to see dark clouds of bats flying by for their nightly hunt. Be there, or be square at 5.55pm in January!
Michel Zuidgeest, France (Jan 99)

A sight not to be missed is the early morning walk around the town by the monks in Luang Prabang. The locals come out at around 5.30am with pots or rice and spoon it into the bowls of the passing monks. It is well worth stumbling out of bed for this event.
Kate Swinburn & Carlos Rodriguez, Australia (Dec 98)

The Information and Culture Division on the main road now houses the Heritage House Office; a building unique in architectural style. It is worth taking a peak inside to see the mapping, architectural sketching and classification being done in Luang Prabang as a whole, since the city is now a World Heritage City.
It is also interesting to visit the Hmong ladies sewing and appliqueing on the corner of Thanon Kitsalat and Thanon Phothisalat every day from about 7am to 6pm. At dusk, the area turns into an arena for various gambling stalls - you can try your luck at darts, ball tosses, or spinning a fish pointer for a 100 kip bet.
The Red Cross is offering a sauna for about 5000 kip per person, as well as massage for 8000 kip per hour.
Teresa Sobieszczyk - USA (May 98)

You can experience a Lao herbal steam bath through the Red Cross. You will see signs everywhere in town (Luang Prabang), inviting you to this steam bath which is probably the only one in town. What's interesting is the Laotian-falang mixture you find crammed together in the steam cubicles (one for men and one for women of course) - truly a communal and enjoyable experience. Massage is available as well.
Heather Merriam (Jan 98)

Most exhilarating was the ten hour barge trip from Pakse to Don Khong Island. We shared the boat with livestock, seventy Laotians, coconuts, two Italians, produce and supplies, and furniture. There was no English spoken at all and we prayed that when they motioned for us to get off at the end of the day, we were indeed on Don Khong Island. There was no village, only a huge pig to greet us. The river was low and they couldn't get to the normal stopping place. There is no electricity on the island. We walked for ten miles before we got to a village that had motorbike taxis to take us the final eight miles to a guest house: Mr Thong Leuam's home, the manager of Auberge Saladonekhong. Excellent location, sweet rooms, no hot water, bath in room for $10. Rented bikes for the day to explore the island for $1 - a highlight for us. From here we furthered the adventure by taking a smaller boat (dug out canoe type with motor) down the river to Don Khong Island to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins. We actually stayed overnight on the island at the one guest house available. It has two rooms and is not advertised at all. Arrangements can be made with the manager of Auberge Saladonekhong. Exploring this island, seeing the dolphins, finding a gorgeous lagoon to swim in, and seeing the roaring waterfall made this trip incredible.
Michelle L Groleau - USA (Oct 97)

We hitched in a truck carrying cement as part of a three-truck convoy (the bus was unbelievably crowded). Sitting in the cab, listening to Thai pop, we thought we were pretty clever especially compared to those jammed (literally) into the bus. Things soon changed. It is impossible to describe just how slow this truck went through the mountain roads. At times, I could have got down out of the cab, run ahead, gone to the toilet and re-boarded when the truck caught up. During one of the countless stops I decided to investigate the painfulness of my seat. Under the cushion I found an AR 15 machine gun. Different trucks in the convoy broke down at different times, and on each occasion all three vehicles stopped to wait. As a result, the 200km trip took 11 hours (on a sealed road!), and we arrived in Luang Prabang well after dark. Our driver was a very nice fellow, but he still tried to stiff us for 35,000 kip each (the bus, however uncomfortable, at least covered the distance in eight hours, and only cost 30,000).
Josh Wilson, Australia (Aug 98)<