DESTINATION BALI

Facts at a Glance

Kuta Bay

Kuta is not pretty but it's not dull either, and the amazing growth is evidence that a lot of people still find something to like in Kuta. It's still the best beach on Bali, with the only surf which breaks over sand instead of coral. Lots of cheap accommodation is available and there's a huge choice of places to eat. Shops and hawkers offer everything from fake flimflammery - laid out in boxes which open like jaws as you approach - to genuine antiques offered with a considerably softer sell. Even the tourists themselves have become a tourist attraction, with visitors coming from Java to ogle the topless bathers, and from other resorts to tut-tut at the tackiness of it all. And despite all the excesses, away from the traffic clogged streets Kuta is still a village: a place of quiet compounds and narrow alleys, where devotional offerings are placed in front of houses and neighbours emerge in the coolness of the evening to gossip in the street.

Behind the beaches, labyrinthine roads and alleys lead back to the most amazing clutch of hotels, restaurants, bars, food stalls and shops. The renowned Poppies Gang, running directly back from Kuta Beach, is where most of the quieter, inexpensive hostels and restaurants are located. Cheap beachfront accommodation is available in Legian; the lanes running parallel to the beach are the best places to start trawling for a decent bed.

Kuta Bay is in the south of Bali, about 10km (6mi) southwest of Denpasar. Nearby to the north is Sanur, an the upmarket alternative to Kuta; Nusa Dua, to the south, is an upmarket alternative to Sanur. Ulu Watu, on the southern tip of Bali, is the island's most famous surfing spot.

The Bali Museum consists of an attractive series of separate buildings, including examples of both palace and temple architecture. The exhibits themselves are not always well presented, but there are enough arts and crafts and everyday items displayed to make it worthwhile. The tiny cane cases for transporting fighting crickets are pretty special. The Abiankapas arts centre houses a collection of modern painting and woodcarving. Dancing groups and gamelan orchestras regularly perform here, mostly for the benefit of tourists.

Denpasar is in the south of Bali, about 10km (6mi) northeast of Kuta.

Pejeng

The park's headquarters are at Cekik, near the port of Gilimanuk. Frequent bemos and buses shuttle between Cekik and Gilimanuk, which is connected to Denpasar by bus and to Java by ferry.

Most international visitors arrive by air, either directly or via Jakarta, though island hoppers can catch frequent ferries from the neighbouring islands of Java and Lombok. There are direct flights to Jakarta and Bali from numerous European capitals, the cheapest are generally found in London. Flights from the US generally travel via Japan, Korea, Taiwan or Hong Kong. There are also direct flights from all Australian cities. The departure tax on international flights is 25,000 rp.

Bali has direct domestic flights to Java, Lombok and outlying islands. Be sure to reconfirm bookings at least 72 hours before departure. A ferry shuttles between the west Balinese port of Gilimanuk and Ketapang in eastern Java. Boat/bus combination tickets between Denpasar and Javanese cities can be purchased. There are two ferries a day between the eastern Balinese port of Padangbai and Lembar on the west coast of Lombok. A twice-daily catamaran also operates between Benoa in southern Bali and Lembar.

The main forms of public transport on Bali are the cheap buses and bemos that run on more or less set routes within or between towns. If you want your own transport, you can charter a bemo or rent a car, motorcycle or bicycle. The Balinese drive on the left, use their horns a lot and give way to traffic pulling onto the road. Tourist shuttle buses, running between the major tourist centres, are more expensive than public transport but are also more comfortable and convenient.