Thousands of years ago, the area where Taipei now stands was a lake. Over centuries, the lake dried up, becoming a dry basin punctuated with swamps and grassy lowlands. The people of the Pingpu tribe - probably descended from Pacific Islanders - who lived in the elevated areas surrounding the basin, fished in the area in canoes. A few hundred years ago, a group of Han Chinese settled in the area. They used the waterways to fish, keeping to the banks of the Tamsui River some distance from modern Taipei.
In 1790, a farmer from Fukien Province on the mainland established a farm at Takala in what is now central Taipei. This was the beginning of a large-scale migration to the area, and led to the formation of several settlements. The most concentrated area of settlement - the earliest in the Taipei area - was known as Manka. Other locations including Talungtung, Sungshan and Shihlin also became populated by Chinese mainland communities. Control of the emerging city of Taipei was divided among immigrants from different areas of mainland China. This broad power-sharing led to frequent armed clashes. After a large battle in 1853, settlers from Chuanchou fled north to Tataocheng on the banks of the Tamsui River; their farming efforts eventually led to a new and prosperous community which dominated Manka by the late 19th century. The Tamsui River brought commerce and prosperity, with trade in tea and camphor taking place along the waterfront. Both Manka and Tataocheng sprang up because of their proximity to the Tamsui River, which is regarded as the cradle of Taipei. It was not only the vital force behind the development of early Taipei, but also served as a major artery in the city's subsequent development.
In 1875, the Prefecture of Taipei was established in what is now the Chungcheng District of the city. Taipei's early construction was based on traditional Chinese geomancy, with walls to the east and west, mountains surrounding and the Hsintien River as the required body of water in front. The city faced north-south with the four main walls penetrated by five city gates. The area within walls was referred to as Cheng-nei (`inside the city walls'). The Ching Dynasty established administrative and financial agencies in the fledgling city and when the Japanese colonized Taiwan in 1895, they also set up administrative headquarters in Taipei and continued to develop the city. Under the management of its different rulers the area within the city walls has evolved from wide open countryside into the administrative, economic and cultural center of Taiwan in just 100 years.
Japanese rule was harsh, and led to widespread dissatisfaction from the Taiwanese. During this time, though, the Japanese built roads and infrastructure, developing Taiwan as it would any other Japanese city. With WWII came allied bombing and the destruction of much of this infrastructure, and by the end of the war, the economy of Taiwan was in ruins. Under the Yalta Agreement at the end of the war, Taiwan came under Chinese rule. Taiwanese happiness at getting rid of the Japanese didn't last long, with the corrupt General Chen Yi sent from China as governor. In 1947 anti-Chinese riots broke out and were brutally repressed: as many as 30,000 civilians were killed. Until the lifting of martial law in 1987, this incident - known as `2-28' - was a forbidden topic.
When the Communists took over China in 1949, the Chinese ruler, Chiang Kaishek, moved his government to Taiwan: thus began the `two Chinas' saga. The PRC (mainland China) became entangled in the Korean War, so the anticipated invasion of the ROC (Taiwan) never took place. The ROC government always claimed that their presence in Taipei was temporary, but that until they re-took the mainland, no political opposition was allowed. Although they weren't popular with many native Taiwanese, the ROC government was embarking on a successful rebuilding program. With rapid industrialisation in the 1960s, Taiwan became one of the wealthiest countries in Asia.
The main rail link is Taipei Train Station, located in the cental-western part of the city. Surrounding the train station are four bus stations, named after the cardinal compass points. Generally speaking, if you're heading out of town, go to the bus station named after the direction you're headed.
Being sub-tropical, Taipei experiences two seasons rather than four. But whatever the season, the one guarantee is rain. From November to April the temperatures are cool - even chilly - with almost constant cloud cover and intermittent drizzle. During the summer, the rain comes in short, torrential bursts, usually followed by bright sunshine. The combination is just enough to keep things hot and sticky for months.
Perhaps the most extraordinary aspect of the collection is the distance it has covered to get to its current location. From 960 the growing collection spent 500 years moving between Beijing and Nanjing until being housed for another 500 years in Beijing's Forbidden City. In 1931 the collection was sent to Nanjing, then Shanghai, in order to avoid falling into invading Japanese hands. Avoiding the Japanese invasion of Shanghai by only a few weeks, the collection moved back to Nanjing. By 1939 it was hidden in the remote southern village of Emei. Ten thousand crates were also kept in a boat moored on the Yangzi River until the war ended and the collection was reunited. Back again and on display in Nanjing, it was all packed up once more in 1949 and shipped off to Taipei to evade the Communists. This final move was so hasty that about 700 crates were left behind, but the massive collection still remains a testament to Chinese tradition, culture, ingenuity and packing methods.
Tienhsiang
If you're heading out of the city, point your nose towards Tienhsiang. The highlight of Tienhsiang is the nearby Taroko Gorge, probably Taiwan's most beautiful scenic spot. The gorge is 19km (12mi) long, with sheer cliffs dropping away to a rushing river of white water. The Eternal Spring Shrine, just above the entrance to the gorge, straddles a waterfall: it was built as a memorial to the 450 workers who died building the Taroko Highway. The town is a lovely little resort at the top of the gorge, nestled between towering cliffs. Relaxing and tranquil, there's not much to do in the town itself, but there are plenty of walks nearby.
Exactly 1km (about half a mile) uphill from Tienhsiang, the tunnel hike is, as its name suggests, a walk which leads through a dripping tunnel, past outstanding scenery, to the Paiyang Waterfall and beyond. A little further out of Tienhsiang, Wenshan Hot Springs is a very pleasant, natural spring. Tienhsiang is popular with honeymooners, so visit during the week if you want a bit of quiet solitude. A third of the way down the east coast, Tienhsiang is serviced by buses and tours from Taipei.
Facts at a Glance
History
When to Go
Orientation
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Events
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
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