Locally based Forward Press has recently released an extremely useful book in English entitled A Hiking Guide to Taiwan. The first half of the book details hikes which can be done rather close to Taipei city - great for all of us who have gazed longingly at the nearby mountains through the gaps between skyscrapers - and the second half takes adventurers to the eastern and southern parts of Taiwan. IÆve ætrail-testedÆ a few of the hikes and IÆve found the maps and the descriptions of the paths to be very accurate. A few photos in the middle also help to make it an enjoyable work. I got a copy of this book at an Eslite bookstore, and IÆve been told itÆs available at Caves and Grandma NittyÆs as well. Highly recommended.
Brian Kleinsmith, Taiwan (Apr 99)
On p3 of the updates section in the Taiwan book, a letter from a reader states that one needs an ARC to wire money. That changed some time in 1997. All a foreigner needs now is a passport. I've done it many times. The present cost is NT$320 at E. Sun bank.
Glenn Dunphy, Canada (Dec 98)
Tainan: the Bank of Taiwan is located at 159 Fuchien St.
Anping Gubai (Anping Fort) is presently closed for renovation. It was unclear when it would reopen. When it does, you can take either the number 15 bus (from the train station) or the number 24 (from Ximen).
Even though it is in a bad condition, Koxinga's museum is well worth a visit.
The Dui Kao Yueh trail in Alishan is a nice walk. Starting at the main road which runs to the Sunrise House, it takes about an hour each way (1.7km).
The sacred tree in Alishan has possibly lost its grace before god: it was struck by lightning and fell down.
Toroko Gorge: there are a few stores where you can purchase food and drink on the way from Tienxiang to the visitor centre: the first one is about 1.5km from Tienxiang; the second about 9km. Anyone doing this walk should be very wary of the cars on the road and falling rocks from the cliffs.
Dror Kochan, Israel (Nov 98)
At the railway station in Taipei there are about 20 internet computers which you can use for free. You just have to give some identification at the desk and then you can use a computer for 30 minutes. There is a team of four people there who will help you out if you have problems with the computer. On Sundays you can stay on the computer much longer than the other days. In Kaohsiung you can find internet access on the ninth floor of the Far Eastern department store which is beside the railway station. The first hour is 90NTS, the second 80 and the next 60. You must order at least one drink.
The Fokuangshan monastery is closed to visitors; it became too busy. If you really wish to visit, you can phone them on 656 1921. However, they will only welcome you if you are seriously interested in Buddhism or want to worship there. The bus leaves from the bus stop in front of KFC, opposite the railway station.
Part of the Yuanheng temple in Kaohsiung is under construction. The lowest building at the foot of the hill is currently being restored but if you go up in the elevator you can enter the bigger temple and enjoy a beautiful view of the city.
Hans van den Berg, The Netherlands (Oct 98)
I recently rented a car (NT$5400 for three days, including insurance) and did a trip through the mountains via Highway 8 to Hualien and up the east coast to Keelung. It was a spectacular drive, but the two way 'highway' soon turned narrow and it should be noted that the drive is not for the weak hearted. Many Taiwanese drivers are reckless and do not slow for oncoming traffic, no matter how narrow the road gets. Furthermore, the well used avalanche barriers and tunnels were in poor repair and some were just plain dangerous to drive through. Despite the hair raising drive, the scenery was breathtaking and well worth the scares on the road.
If you plan on being in Taiwan for several months, it is worth saving the countless receipts you'll receive. At the top of every receipt there is an 8-digit number. Every two months the government holds a draw and if you match three or more numbers you win a cash prize. The numbers are posted in the local papers at the time of drawing. Winning several thousand NT$ is common as you can accumulate hundreds of bills over a two month period. It's the government's way of attempting to keep businesses legitimate.
Suzanne Zyla, Taiwan (Aug 98)
There are now four bookstores in Chiayi where you can get a small assortment of English novels, magazines and teaching aides. They are all located close to each other on Chung Shan Road. Kingstore Bookstore is still one of the best, but 'Books' (Phone: (05) 227 3928) at 583 Chung Shan Road, right in front of the train station, has the best selection of teaching aides on the second floor.
Suzanne Zyla, Taiwan (Aug 98)
The information Miriam Haag (below) gives about the renaming of the New Park is incorrect. The park has been renamed to commemorate the victims of a crackdown by the Nationalist (KMT) forces on the ethnic Taiwanese population. The even began on 28 February 1947 (not the turn of the century) and an estimated 28,000 people were killed. The park is named 2-28 Park. The incident still causes high emotions today and highlights the differences in modern Taiwan between those who consider themselves Chinese and those who consider themselves Taiwanese.
Shaun Corrigan (Aug 98)
Taipei email and internet: the free email and internet place in Taipei central station is presently defunct and seems likely to stay that way. However, over the road at TT Station, there is another free email service that's smaller but organised with an orderly queue and time limits. Go down to the basement, bear left and go as far as you can - it's in the south-east corner.
Taiwan medical services: I was told by Chinese colleagues that doctors here all speak good English. I went for a consultation at a local health centre and hospital and found myself dealing with helpful and understanding fluent English speakers. Charges were pretty reasonable; the health centre charged me nothing after they told me to go to the hospital. The hospital registered me for 50 NTS then charged 200 NTS for a consultation. Excellent service, I thought.
Leslie Butler (Jul 98)
I went to Taipei Railway station on 20 June 1998. There were computers available for free access to the Internet as reported on your web site. However, they were all out of order. They appeared to have been down for a long time.
Herbert Kwok - Hong Kong (Jul 98)
All telephone numbers in Taipei are now eight digits with an extra '2' in front. To call Taipei from other parts of Taiwan, you must dial 02 + 2 + the original seven digit number. International calls to Taipei are 886 + 2 + 2 + the original seven digit number.
Jack Chang - Canada/Taiwan (Mar 98)
If you set up a web-based account before you leave (e.g. Hotmail or Yahoo) then you'll have no trouble accessing it from the Taipei Train Station.
Steven Painter (Jan 98)
In Fokuaugshan, it is no longer possible, at least for tourists, to climb the hill and see the big golden Buddha. The temple and the graveyard only remain open to the public.
Francois Tonnellier (Dec 97)
Taipei New Park has been renamed into 28th February Park to commemorate the victims of an uprising on that date at the beginning of the century.
Taipei Astronomy Museum: 363 Keeho Road (intersection with Chungcheng); open 9am to 8pm on weekends, 9am to 4pm weekdays; Phone: (02) 831 4551.
Miriam Haag (Nov 97)
The Taipei Rail Station provides FREE internet access from 10am until 11pm (maybe even later, not sure). It is nearly impossible to get onto a computer during the normal hours of the day but first thing (10am) and around 9pm they were free.
Elizabeth Allen Gray - Taiwan (Oct 97)
The better hotels are more likely to have someone who can speak English, which can result in advice, explanations, directions etc., which save a lot of time and money, which in turn offset the higher cost of the room. Having a fridge allows you to buy food the night before and have it for breakfast. Some hotels saved us so much money by providing a free shuttle service to the airport that it ended up costing the same as a lesser hotel. When hotels called taxis for us, it was cheaper and they never tried to cheat us.
In Taipei keep lots of coins handy for buses, MRT, soda machines, etc.
The Bank of Taiwan and ICBC have a charge for changing travellers checks. Change your money before passing through customs at CKS airport; no opportunity after that. I found ATM cards quick and convenient to get cash without paying commission.
Trygve Anderson - Australia (Jul 97)
The phone numbers in Taipei have all changed. In addition to the old phone numbers, a '2' must be added first. Thus, 123-4567 now becomes 2123-4567. It seems to be to make way for more phone numbers. Taipei's area code is still (02), so someone dialling the above number from outside would dial (02) 2123 4567.
Rachel Kronick - Taiwan (no date)
For years, before taking a taxi in Taitung, youÆve had to bargain with the driver. But now, to improve the development of tourism in Taitung, the local government has made a law about taxi fares. The new fares took effect on 15 May 1999. Before you get in the taxi, make sure the meter is set; because the law is relatively new, a few taxi drivers donÆt do this yet. The first kilometre should cost NT$80; every 230 metres after that, NT$5.
Chuang Pei Rung, Taiwan (May 99)
The 'car revolution' that is mentioned in the Taiwan guidebook is gradually killing all rural bus lines and for the east coast and mountain areas I would seriously consider renting a car. Driving in these areas seems to be no problem - none of the frantic idiocy of the large cities.
There seems to no longer be a bus between Tahsi and Sanhsia. Also, the bus from Taoyuan to Tahsi does not leave from either of the indicated bus stations in Taoyuan. People pointed us in the opposite direction from those two bus stations, but we couldn't find it.
There seems to no longer be a bus between Suao and Hualien (the scenic coastal route). The link has been erased from the signs in the Suao bus station and everyone kept referring us to the railway station.
If you want to cross the mountains using the Southern Cross Island Highway, be aware that the two bus companies involved do not have any contact with each other, and that they do not know in advance whether the other bus will come all the way to the top (Tienchih). We wanted to go to Tainan from Taitung and were left stranded at the top. Luckily there were many Taiwanese (car) tourists including some rare ones that spoke English. They organised a lift for us 'to the next village', but as there was no bus there either, we ended up with a lift all the way to Tainan, and were not allowed to express our thanks other than by saying than you. We found out that the connecting bus should be there by 1 pm. If it isn't, it won't come and you should start making other arrangements.
In Touliu, the bus to Chushan (for Hsitou Forest) now leaves from *behind* the railway station. There is a tunnel underneath the station. At the end of it, keep right and stay parallel to the railway line for a short distance. There seem to be no buses that go straight to Hsitou.
In Shuili, buses to Sun Moon Lake leave from neither of the indicated bus stations. Instead, they leave a few houses down from the bus station where the buses from Chushan arrive (continue in the same direction, it's on your right hand side).
There are no buses around Sun Moon Lake any longer. Taxis do a tour for a fixed price, indicated on a sign.
Hans van der Veen, The Thorn Tree (Jan 99)
They still hadn't repaired the train from Chiayi to Alishan in December 1998 and there are no direct buses to Alishan from Kaohsiung or Taichung (at least not during the week). Instead you will have to take the bus from Chiayi for NT$156.
Buses from Taichung to Hualien no longer depart from Gancheng bus terminal as stated in the guide, but instead leave from the station of the Feng-Yuan bus company opposite the railway station at 7 am and 8 am. It's NT$519 to Hualien and NT$427 to Tienhsiang. The local buses in Taipei seem to change every year, so it's worth asking at the tourist information centre in the main railway station (where they speak good English) about how to get to the National Palace Museum.
Katrin Ottersbach, Scotland (Jan 99)
The train from Jiayi to Alishan has ceased due to the earthquake. It is currently being rebuilt but will take some time. Buses from Alishan to Jiayi leave five times a day now.
Taipei: to get to Mucha Tea Park, it is better to either take train number 294 from the main station to the university, and from there you can either walk or take a minibus. The other option is to take the MRT to the Zoo and catch a taxi from there.
The telephone number of an English-speaking taxi company is: 234 35000. Make sure that they understand the price you wish to pay.
Dror Kochan, Israel (Nov 98)
The bus between Hualein and Suao definitely does not run any more. We asked in Hualein at our hotel, the bus station and also the railway station. So there isn't any public transport available now on the coastal route.
Contrary to what is said in the guidebook, booking a train to Taipei from Keelung was a breeze and I did not encounter a queue of any sort. If you are travelling by train up the east coast and wish to go to Keelung (well worth a visit) you must change trains at Patu.
Chris Hayward (Aug 98)
Shuili: the bus station for buses from Shuili to Sun Moon Lake has moved. It is now 50 metres up the road from the Yuanlin Bus Company. As you exit the train station it is on the left, just east of the Yuanlin Bus Company. It is NT$39 one-way to Sun Moon Lake Village.
KrisAnn Traicoff, USA (Jul 98)
The Shanlishi-Hsitou-Chiayi bus no longer exists. Fares are NT$60 from Shanlishi to Hsitou and NT$100 from Hsitou to Chung Shan. From there we took a bus to Touliu (about NT$35) and headed towards Tsaoling.
Alon & Tal Glick, Israel (no date)
Left luggage, Taipei railway station: there's no English language notice to say so, but there's a five day limit on the left luggage coin boxes. After that they move your stuff and the one-off rate become a rapidly-accumulating daily rate.
Leslie Butler (Jul 98)
There are now direct buses from Hsinchu to Shihtoushan. I caught one at 10.30am; travel time 90 minutes, cost NT$80. Seems to be quite a few buses going that way too. Buy tickets from the lady in the booth in the bookshop on the traffic island directly in front of the railway station. Coming back from Shihtoushan, you don't even need to go as far as Hsinchu. Instead, get off the bus at Chunan (only NT$50), which is also on the East Coast rail line, just a few stops before Hsinchu. In other words, give Hsinchu a miss and change from rail to bus at Chunan.
Trains to Alishan: the bad news is that during the week there is only one train a day now starting from Chiayi. It leaves at 1320. The down train from Alishan leaves at 1330. On the weekend there is just one extra train leaving an hour earlier. Up costs NT$399, down only NT$340. Good news for bus fans; there are more of them than when LP last visited and they cost a mere NT$220.
Express trains from Taipei to Suao stop at Hsin Suao. From Hsin Suao you need to catch a bus/shuttle to Suao (no prefix). This is fine if the train continues to a terminus further south. However, if you catch a train with Suao as its ultimate destination, then to Suao it goes. Not Hsin Suao. It sounds obvious, but if you're a non-Chinese reading moron like me, this caused some confusion and made a taxi driver rich (but puzzled) in the process.
The bus time from Suao to Hualien has changed. I re-arrived at Suao at 1.15pm and waited, but there was no 2pm bus. When I asked, I was told (by another taxi driver so not exactly an unbiased source of information), that the bus now leaves at 1pm, not 2pm. So beware.
Richard Selby (Mar 98)
Taipei Rapid Transit: it's up and running well (in places!) Two lines have been completed. Everything is in English and buying a ticket is easy.
Fiona Woods - UK (Feb 98)
The Taiwan railways do two 2-day tours to the Taroko Gorge (via Hualien!) from Taipei; one in English, one in Chinese. Take the Chinese tour: on that, all the meals are included. On the English tour, you buy your own meals. The scenery is the same in both languages, and there is generally someone on the tour who speaks some English (or French, or other mutual language).
Dewi & Eufron Williams - Canada (Jan 98)
I have been told (and I experienced it!) that there is no longer a bus service from Suao to Hualien (I don't know about Hualien to Suao). But there are still lots of trains.
Francois Tonnellier (Dec 97)
Don't even think of trekking along the east coast highway - it's packed with trucks and buses with no sidewalk or side trail. Even on bike I wouldn't try.
Frederic Bischoff (Nov 97)
Train tickets are computerised now, so you can book your seats in advance from and to anywhere.
Miriam Haag (Nov 97)
In Chiayi we found some beautiful, well-manicured hiking trails about ten minutes from town. Following Mintzu Rd east into Da-Ya Rd, the reservoir (Lan-Tan) offers a well-organized system of trails that leads into the foothills of the mountains. You can enter them by driving up Da-Ya for about six minutes or so, look for the intersection with Wenya Rd, then keep your eyes peeled for a red gate on your right after the light. It's a temple, so you can just park your vehicle and follow the families to the trails which begin from the back of the exercise field. It's a nice place to wander where you can't get too lost, but is challenging and seems very far from the city just outside - a nice place we thought you should know about.
Mary Ann & Spencer Hall, Taiwan (Oct 98)
For travellers staying in Taipei who wish for a taste of more traditional Taiwan without spending hours driving or riding down-island, Tanshui retains many small town qualities. As such, the town is a centre for frequent weekend worship festivals, particularly in the summer, when streets may be suddenly blocked off and people swarm around a particular temple. The temple's chief idol is loaded on a litter, and parades of worshippers join the procession through the streets playing traditional instruments, wearing elaborate god or immortal costumes, and setting off firecrackers. You might even come across a public pig roast as part of one of the festivals, but they are something to watch for if you are spending a Saturday of Sunday in Tanshui. Listen for wailing traditional instruments and immoderate amounts of firecracker explosions, and watch for crowded side streets. There are at least five temples along the main roads and down the side streets and alleys between the river front and the part of Chengshan Rd that parallels Chungcheng Rd. Walk up the hill from the river front, exploring as many side streets as you can for possible temple activity. The parades typically occur around noon to the early afternoon.
Travellers can now visit Tanshui with relative ease due to the arrival of the long-awaited rapid transit system.
Gene Browning, USA (Oct 98)
A great day trip from Chiayi is to a wonderful waterfall located in the mountains about an hour outside the city. To get there, follow Highway 3 to highway marker 334 (about 55km). Upon reaching this marker, look for the clearing at the side of the highway which acts as a parking lot. Walk down the steep driveway where a lovely Taiwanese man lives and sells cold drinks out of his house. The walk to the waterfall is just behind his house. Just follow the cleared path to the falls. The walk is about 1km and is very scenic. There's a hanging bridge that crosses the water providing a terrific photo opportunity. When you reach the waterfall, you can swim in the pool there, but if you feel adventurous climb the ladder that is bolted to the rock wall to the left of the falls and swim in the secluded pools that go on for about a kilometer. It is unlikely that you will come across anyone else and it is a wonderful change of pace from the city.
One small town not mentioned in your book, but a highlight of my trip was Jofen. It was fabulous! Jofen is nestled in a small valley between two mountains. It borders an old copper mine and has a great ocean view. There is a lovely winding road that one can walk or drive through and around the town. The old copper mine is a great photo opportunity and the town is pretty and quiet. There is a cafΘ on the road leading into the town that serves great coffee (hot and cold). I didn't see any hotels in Jofen, but it is close enough to Keelung that you could do a day trip there (buses are frequent).
Suzanne Zyla, Taiwan (Aug 98)
Fokuangshan: I noticed that someone else had recently written to you about this temple being one of the top temples to see in Taiwan. The other traveller is correct in saying that the Monastery and grounds are closed to tourists. However, we had a nun give us a private tour of the grounds, show us several video tapes about the area and then even offer for us to stay in the monastery and attend dinner with the monks and nuns, about 800 of them! It was an experience as they all ate in silence and the nun would not let you leave the table until you had eaten every grain of rice and drop of soup from you bowls. It was quite an experience! We were also able to observe/participate in the evening and sunrise chanting exercises. While not every traveller can expect to experience this, it is certainly worth a try to ask for at least a tour. The only explanation we were given as to why we were allowed to stay was 'because you came from so far'.
KrisAnn Traicoff, USA (Jul 98)
Wulai Hot Springs: these are outdoor, free, almost natural and on the bank of the river! There is even a sauna there. In my opinion, these are the best hot springs in Taiwan, that is, if you don't mind crowds. They are very easy to find: after crossing the bridge, instead of climbing the stairs, you should take a left, go down that road for about 20 metres and then go down the steps to the river.
Alon & Tal Glick, Israel (no date)
TAIWAN
