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Area: 39,000 sq km Population: 30 million Capital city: Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) Main languages: Malayalam
Keralan tea estate (29K) Kochi (Cochin)The port city of Kochi is located on a cluster of islands and narrow peninsulas. The older parts of the city are an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country village grafted onto the tropical Malabar Coast. Here, you can see the oldest church in India, winding streets crammed with 500-year-old Portuguese houses, cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish community whose roots go back to the Diaspora, a 16th-century synagogue, a palace containing some of India's most beautiful murals, and performances of the world-famous Kathakali dance-drama. Ferries scuttle back and forth between the various parts of Kochi and dolphins can often be seen in the harbour. Most of the historical sights are in Fort Cochin or Mattancherry. Budget accommodation can be found in mainland Ernakulam.
Fort Cochin canal, Kochi (16K)
Street sign reflects Kochi's historic influences (21K) The complex network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals fringing the coast of Kerala forms the basis of a distinct regional lifestyle, and travelling by boat along these backwaters is one of the highlights of a visit to the state. The boats cross shallow, palm-fringed lakes studded with Chinese fishing nets, and along narrow, shady canals where coir (coconut fibre), copra and cashews are loaded onto boats. Stops are made at small settlements where people live on carefully cultivated narrow spits of land only a few metres wide, and there's the chance to see traditional boats with huge sails, and prows carved into the shape of dragons. The most popular backwater trip is the eight-hour voyage between Kollam and Alappuzha, but most of your fellow passengers on this route will be Western travellers. If you want a local experience, or you simply feel like a shorter trip, there are local boats from Alappuzha to Kottayam and Changanassery. backwater mentality
Coir factory (14K) This mellow Keralan coastal village has become the most popular beach hangout in southern India. It was once a picturesque settlement built next to two palm-fringed coves enclosed by rocky headlands, but development has been almost totally unplanned. There's a plethora of places to stay, ranging from cheap concrete boxes to up-market resorts, and a large number of under-equipped restaurants offering standard Asian travellers' menus. Many of the badly maintained hotels and restaurants were ugly even before they started to fall apart and the amount of garbage piled up behind the beach is a complete disgrace. The effects of a large influx of `independent' travellers on an unprepared environment are clear to see.Periyar Wildlife SanctuaryThis 777 sq km sanctuary is home to bison, antelopes, sambars, wild boars, monkeys, langurs, a wide variety of birds, some 750 elephants and about 35 tigers and leopards. If you go to Periyar hoping to see tigers, you're almost certain to be disappointed. If, on the other hand, you treat Periyar as a pleasant escape from the rigours of Indian travel, a nice place to cruise on the lake and an opportunity to see some wildlife and enjoy a jungle walk, then you will probably find a visit well worthwhile. The park encompasses a 26 sq km artificial lake, created by the British in 1895 to provide water to Madurai. There are places to stay inside the park; the closest towns are Kumily and Thekkady.KottayamKottayam was a centre for the Syrian Christians of Kerala and there are several of their churches, including Cheriyapalli and Valliapalli, about 3km north-west of the town. The former is famous for its beautiful murals and the latter for its Persian cross and Phalvi inscriptions. The Valliapalli guest book goes back to 1899; Haile Selassie dropped by in 1956. Today, Kottayam is a centre for Indian rubber production, and the town has a busy and colourful main street.
Auto rickshaws, Kottayam (16K) Lakshadweep IslandsThe Lakshadweep archipelago consists of 36 coral islands some 200km to 300km west of the Kerala coast. The islands are a northern extension of the Maldives chain, and form the smallest of the Union Territories of India. Ten of the islands are inhabited, predominantly by Malayalam-speaking Muslims. The main occupations on the island are fishing and copra and coir production, though tourism is an emerging industry. The islands are every bit as inviting as those in the Maldives but, until very recently, were effectively off limits. Now there are regular boat cruises and tours to the island for Indian nationals, and the resort on the uninhabited island of Bangaram is open to foreign tourists. There are plenty of opportunities for scuba diving, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing and all the usual resort water sports. Permits to visit the island are available from New Delhi or Kochi (Cochin). There are several flights a week and four-day cruises departing from Kochi (Cochin). Getting There & Getting Around
The relaxed state capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) and Kochi are the state's major transport hubs. Thiruvananthapuram has international flights to Colombo (Sri Lanka) and Malé (Maldives), and domestic flights to Bangalore, Mumbai (Bombay), Kochi and Madras. There are flights from Kochi to the Lakshadweep Islands, Bombay, Bangalore, Goa, Delhi, Thiruvananthapuram, Coimbatore and Madras. Kerala's buses are faster than trains but make no concessions to comfort. Kerala's railway network hugs the coast, with branches running east into Tamil Nadu.
Travellers' Reports
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