DESTINATION NEW ZEALAND

Full country name: New Zealand
Area: 269,000 sq km
Population: 3.5 million
Capital city: Wellington (pop 328,000 )
People: 88% European (Pakeha), 12% Maori and Polynesian
Languages: English and Maori
Religion: Predominantly Christian (81%)
Government: Independent member of the British Commonwealth
Prime Minister: Jenny Shipley

Environment

Serene Lake Wanaka, Otago (16K)

Much of New Zealand's flora is endemic and its extent is enormous: giant gum-producing kauri and kohekohe forests; rainforest dominated by rimu, beeches, tawa, matai and rata; ferns and flax; alpine and subalpine herb fields; and scrub and tussock. One of the most noticeable plants is the pohutakawa (known as the New Zealand Christmas tree) which detonates with brilliant red flowers around December. About 10 to 15% of the total land area of New Zealand is native flora, the bulk protected in national parks and reserves.

Gannets waiting to be ransomed, Cape Kidnappers (17K)

Curiously, native fauna is limited, with the only indigenous mammal being the bat. Bird life, however, has thrived. The most common species include the morepork, tui, weka and the kea, a clamant and mischievous bird which likes nothing better than to sashay up to humans, tip over rubbish bins and slide `kee-aaaing' down corrugated roofs at night. Introduced species - pigs, goats, possums, dogs, cats, deer and the ubiquitous sheep - are found throughout New Zealand but their proliferation in the wild has had a deleterious effect on the environment: over 150 native plants - 10% of the total number of native species - and many native birds are presently threatened with extinction. New Zealand's offshore waters hold a variety of fish, including tuna, marlin, snapper, trevally, kahawai and shark; while its marine mammals - dolphins, seals and whales - attract nature-lovers from around the world. There are 12 national, 20 forest, three maritime and two marine parks, plus two World Heritage Areas: Tongariro National Park in the North Island and Te Waihipouna-mu in the South Island.

Even the sheep like to get out for a Sunday drive (19K)

Lying between 34S and 47S, New Zealand sits squarely in the `roaring forties' latitude which means a prevailing and continual wind blows over the country from west to east; this can range from a gentle breeze in summer to a buffeting, roof-stripping gale in winter. The North Island and South Island, because of their different geological features, have two distinct patterns of rainfall: in the South Island, the Southern Alps act as a barrier for the moisture-laden winds from the Tasman Sea, creating a wet climate to the west of the mountains and a dry climate to the east; while the North Island's rainfall is more evenly distributed without a comparable geological feature such as the Alps. Temperatures are a few degrees cooler in the South Island, and both islands receive snow in winter. Winter falls in the months of June through August and summer from December through to February. It is important to remember that New Zealand's climate is maritime, rather than continental, which means the weather can change with amazing rapidity and consequence. The busy tourist season falls in the warmer months between November and April, though ski resorts, such as Queenstown, are full during winter.

History

The Polynesian navigator Kupe has been credited with the discovery of New Zealand in 950 AD. He named it Aotearoa (Land of the Long White Cloud). Centuries later, around 1350 AD, a great migration of people from Kupe's homeland of Hawaiki followed his navigational instructions and sailed to New Zealand, eventually supplanting or mixing with previous residents. Their culture, developed over centuries without any discernible outside influence, was hierarchical and often sanguinary.

In 1642, the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman briefly sailed along the west coast of New Zealand; any thoughts of a longer stay were thwarted when his attempt to land resulted in several of his crew being killed and eaten. In 1769, Captain James Cook circumnavigated the two main islands aboard the Endeavour. Initial contact with the Maoris also proved violent but Cook, impressed with the Maoris' bravery and spirit and recognising the potential of this newfound land, grabbed it for the British crown before setting sail for Australia.

When the British began their antipodean colonising, New Zealand was originally seen as an offshoot of Australian enterprise in whaling and sealing: in fact, from 1839 to 1841 the country was under the jurisdiction of New South Wales. However, increased European settlement soon proved problematic: a policy was urgently required regarding land deals between the settlers (Pakeha) and the Maori. In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed, with the Maori ceding sovereignty of their country to Britain in exchange for protection and guaranteed possession of their lands. But relations between the Maori and Pakeha soon soured (the Maoris became increasingly alarmed at the effect the Pakeha had on their society while the Pakeha rode roughshod over Maori rights outlined in the treaty). In 1860, war broke out between them, continuing for much of the decade before the Maori were defeated.

By the late 19th century, things had temporarily calmed down. The discovery of gold had engendered much prosperity, and wide-scale sheep farming meant New Zealand became an efficient and mostly self-reliant country. Sweeping social changes - women's suffrage, social security, the encouragement of trade unions and the introduction of child care services - cemented New Zealand's reputation as a country committed to egalitarian reform.

New Zealand was given dominion status in the British Empire in 1907 and granted autonomy by Britain in 1931; independence, however, was not formally proclaimed until 1947. The economy continued to prosper until the worldwide recession in the 1980s, when unemployment rose dramatically. Today the economy has stabilised, thanks largely to an export-driven recovery. Internationally, New Zealand was hailed during the mid-1980s for its anti-nuclear stance - even though it meant a falling-out with the USA - and its opposition to French nuclear testing in the Pacific (which France countered, to much opprobrium but little penalty, by blowing up the Greenpeace vessel Rainbow Warrior as it sat in Auckland Harbour).

The Maori population is now increasing faster than the Pakeha and a resurgence in Maoritanga (Maori culture) has had a major and lasting impact on New Zealand society. Culturally, the most heartening aspect had been the mending of relations between the Maori and Pakeha (in 1985, the Treaty of Waitangi was overhauled, leading to financial reparations to a number of Maori tribes whose land had been unjustly confiscated). However, a recent clumsy take-it-or-leave-it attempt by the New Zealand government to offer financial reparations has resulted in an upsurge of militant Maori protests. Maoris have disrupted events, occupied land claim areas, set up roadblocks, introduced a sledgehammer to the America's Cup and threatened to blow-up the New Zealand parliament. The disharmony has shocked New Zealanders and placed national conciliation at the top of the political agenda.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$60 billion
GDP ranking in the world: 45th
GDP per head: US$17,045
Annual growth: 2%
Inflation: 2%
Major industries: Food processing, wood and paper products, wool, textiles, dairy products, iron and steel
Major trading partners: Australia, Japan, the US

Culture

The dominant cultural groups are the Pakeha and the Maori. Other smaller groups include Yugoslavian Dalmatians, Polynesians, Indians and Chinese. A common thread that binds the entire population is its love of sport - especially the national game of rugby union - and outdoor pursuits such as sailing, swimming, cycling, hiking and camping. The secular aside, Christianity is the most common religion, with Anglicanism, Presbyterianism and Catholicism the largest denominations. An interesting religious variation is the synthesis of the Maori Ratana and Ringatu faiths with Christianity.

Getting around Mt Aspiring (21K)

English and Maori are the two official languages. English is more widely spoken, though the Maori language, for so long on the decline, is now making a comeback due to the revival of Maoritanga. A mellifluous, poetic language, the Maori language is surprisingly easy to pronounce if spoken phonetically and each word split into separate syllables.

Off the record

New Zealand art is multifarious, valuing innovation, integrity and craftsmanship that reflects Pakeha, Maori and Melanesian heritage. Wood, stone, shell and bone carvings are readily available while larger works such as tukutuku (wood panelling) can be seen in most maraes (meeting houses). Paua shell, greenstone, greywacke and greenwacke pebbles are often fashioned into jewellery that takes its inspiration from the landscape: earrings shaped like the leaves of a gingko tree; sunglasses modelled on native fern tendrils; and necklaces in frangipani-flower designs. There is a lively theatre scene in the country, especially in Wellington, and a number of galleries, including the Dunedin Public Art Gallery, which is the oldest viewing room in New Zealand and one of its best. The music scene is vigorous and fecund, spawning a pool of talent - from Split Enz and Crowded House to the thrashing guitar pyrotechnics of Dunedin's 3Ds and Straitjacket Fits - lauded locally and overseas.

Events

Currency: NZ dollar
Exchange rate: US$1 = NZ$1.9
Relative costs:

• Budget meal: US$5-10
• Moderate restaurant meal: US$15-30
• Top-end restaurant meal: US$ 80 and up
• Budget hotel: US$10-20
• Mid-range hotel: US$20-50
• Top-end hotel: US$150 and up

It's possible to travel quite economically in New Zealand. Budget travellers can expect to get by on less than US$35 a day if camping or staying in hostels and self-catering. Motor camps and motels all have kitchens for guests' use, so staying in these also gives you the option of doing your own cooking. One of the main reasons people come to New Zealand is to participate in the activities the country is known for. Some cost nothing - tramping, swimming, birdwatching - but as so many enjoyable activities are expensive, they can end up being a major part of your travel budget. If you stay in hotels, eat at restaurants and spend money on rafting, bungy jumping and the like, be prepared to outlay about US$100 a day.

The currencies of Australia, the UK, USA, Canada, Germany and Japan are all easily changed in New Zealand. You'll have no trouble with the major travellers' cheques and credit cards. Banks will give cash advances on Visa and MasterCard, but for American Express card transactions you must go to an American Express office.

Tipping is becoming more widespread in New Zealand, although many Kiwis still regard it as a rather odd foreign custom. Nevertheless, it is on the increase, principally in the major centres where there's been more foreign influence. You should tip 5-10% of the bill in a restaurant (not in a simple café) if you feel you have received exceptional service.

When to Go

Despite the number of off-beat activities available the most popular one is still tramping (Kiwi lingo for hiking or trekking). Thousands of kilometres of marked tracks and an efficient network of trampers' huts make it a viable activity for everyone from experienced hikers to country strollers. Be warned that some of the more popular tracks such as the Great Walks will be fairly crowded, especially in summer, so if you prefer solitude contact the nearest Department of Conservation for further information on tramping in their area.

New Zealand is also one of the most popular destinations in the southern hemisphere for skiing and other winter sports because of its reliable and abundant snowfall. This usually occurs between June and October. There are a number of ski-package tours available and a variety of ski resorts scattered throughout both the north and south islands.

Getting There & Away

New Zealand also has an extensive bus network, with the main operator being InterCity (servicing both the North Island and South Island). The two other major bus operators are Newmans (North Island) and Mt Cook Landline (South Island). Services on main bus routes are frequent (at least once a day); unfortunately they can be expensive and slow. A good alternative is to use shuttle bus companies which are smaller, cheaper and friendlier than the large bus companies. Some of them are designed to cater especially for foreign travellers and/or backpackers and have lots of little `extras' that make them particularly attractive; other companies, perhaps drawing on the experiences of Ken Kesey and his Merry Pranksters, can take you around New Zealand on `alternative' buses which are often an unhurried way of seeing the country.

This surf wagon set off for the coast in 1956 (19K)

Main train routes are few, though train travel is reasonably quick. Trains are modern and comfortable, and the fares are sometimes cheaper than those by bus on the same routes. Car travel (New Zealanders drive on the left) is recommended as the roads are good and well signposted and the distances short. Rentals of cars, motorcycles and campervans are popular with a range of special deals available. There are plenty of boat services, including the Interislander ferry (operating between Wellington in the North Island and Picton in the South Island. And finally, there's always cycling around the country. Many travellers describe New Zealand as a cyclists' paradise: it's clean, green, uncrowded and unspoiled, and there are plenty of places where you can camp or find cheap accommodation. Bicycle rental can be daily, weekly or monthly and is inexpensive.

Recommended Reading

• Two Worlds: First Meetings Between Maori and Europeans 1642-1772 by Anne Salmond is a fascinating historical account of the first contact between the Maori and European explorers
• The Greenpeace New Zealand Story by Michael Szabo chronicles the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior by French agents and outlines Greenpeace activities in New Zealand and the Pacific
• Te Ao Hurihuri: Aspects of Maoritanga by Michael King is a collection of writings on Maori culture, with contributions from a number of respected Maori authors
• The Stories of Katherine Mansfield: Definitive Edition edited by Antony Alpers is an authoritative volume of work from the distinguished New Zealand writer
• Janet Frame: An Autobiography by Janet Frame is a fascinating insight into the life of the novelist, poet and short story writer
• Once Were Warriors by Alan Duff is a gritty, no-nonsense account of Maori urban life, subsequently made into an internationally acclaimed film of the same name
• The Bone People by Keri Hulme is a provocative fable about three fiercely unique characters, bound in Maori myth and entwined in Christian symbols. It won the British Booker Prize in 1985.

• New Zealand - a travel survival kit
• Tramping in New Zealand

Travellers' Reports

• Click here for the latest (but unverified) travellers' reports on New Zealand

• Take the subWWWay to New Zealand.