Bicycle prices are much cheaper in New Zealand than in the UK and Europe generally. Most known brands are less than half the UK price. There is also a good stock of second-hand stuff available through bigger shops and also at æCash ConvertersÆ where decent second-hand bikes start at NZ$75. I would suggest that for extended trips itÆs easier to buy in New Zealand than to struggle with a bike from home, especially now that British Airways/Qantas are including the bicycle weight as part of the baggage allowance - ouch! Selling the bike at the end of the trip is also a fairly simple affair. Some shops will even do a buy-back deal.
Rex Lerego, UK (Apr 99)
NZ Great Walks Booking by e-mail: there have been a number of posts recently (on the Thorn Tree) on tramping in NZ and how to book up to do the Milford/Routeburn tracks, so this may be useful. Independent hikers can book up by e-mail using this address: [GreatWalksBooking@doc.govt.nz]. I contacted them regarding booking by e-mail and they replied as follows:
'Yes, you can book by email. To book you would need to let us know how
many people you would be booking for, their names and ages if under 18, the dates and huts you want to book for, and a postal address. You can pay by credit card: just give us your credit card number, expiry date and the name that appears on the card. You can also pay by cheque but it would have to be in New Zealand dollars, and we only hold an unpaid booking for one week.'
So I'm now booked up for the Routeburn track in March. They posted back confirmation and details on the trek to the UK at no extra charge and it arrived about a week after my e-mail booking.
Chris, The Thorn Tree (Feb 99)
In Queenstown, a useful tip for travellers is that skiing can be made a lot cheaper by visiting the local Salvation Army shop there. They have a good selection of boots for about NZ$10 and even the odd pair of skis. Clothing can also be bought very cheaply. The beauty is that all the money goes to a charity and the items can be recycled again once youÆve finished with them and are preparing to move on. Skiing can be done on a tight budget as it is a lot cheaper than in the Alps, etc.
Eleanor Swain, UK (Jan 99)
Booking the Milford track was a bit of a pain. It was very confusing trying to figure out how to time the local transportation. Apparently there are fewer buses going from Queenstown to Te Anau than in past years. I strongly suggest getting to Te Anau the day before starting the track. There is plenty of transportation in from Queenstown to Te Anau in the morning but little in the afternoon. (You can bypass Queenstown altogether if you fly into Te Anau).
A couple of points about the track. There is no need to bring a stove or gas. All of the huts have an ample supply (at least in the summer). The track was very easy to follow, but rockier than most trails in the US. Bring sturdy waterproof boots. Sand flies are quite annoying but 'Soft & Dry' or DEET deters them. It is a beautiful place: take your time hiking.
Matt Towers (Jan 99)
When trying to choose a hostel, we found the following booklet very helpful: BBH Backpacker Accommodation (http://www.backpack.co.nz). It's available for free from most hostels and lists and rates independent hostels/backpackers. Ratings are taken from backpacker comments/surveys. Very reliable.
Shannon Reed, New Zealand, & Michael Grawe, Germany (Dec 98)
Do the full day walk on Franz Josef; many fellow travellers complained the half day one left them with very little time on the glacier itself.
If you only intend to do one walk, it has to be the Tongariro Crossing.
Daryl & Kim Hughes, UK (Dec 98)
Unlike the huts on the Routeburn, Kepler, Wilkin-Young or Abel Tasman, the wood-burning
stove in the Mintaro hut on the Milford Track is removed when the season ends, so it can become
bitterly cold during the night time. When I stayed there, the temperature fell to two degrees
Celsius inside the hut, so a good sleeping bag is essential.
Those who plan on getting the standby fare to Stewart Island should have patience. I had to wait
for three hours; there were others who waited six hours.
The Milford is much cheaper to walk during the off-season, the only down side being the need to
find enough people (5) going on the same day, since all the boat operators require a minimum
number to launch you across Lake Te Anau.
Banks Peninsula Track: at the Stony Bay hut it is possible to purchase food if you forgot
something or didn't feel like carrying it with you. I think it is worth walking the track for the wood-heated bath alone; only someone who took a bath in boiling-hot water under a starry sky can understand this divine feeling.
Roy Wiesner, Israel (Dec 98)
After going through customs upon arrival, our baggage was sent through the x-ray machine again. They seem to have very strict guidelines regarding what is allowed in the country. A pair of hiking shoes in my carry-on bag was removed for inspection: I had a small amount of dirt in my soles and this was not allowed. They took them off to be cleaned and returned them in a plastic bag. They also checked tents and tent pegs for soil. We could find no mention of this in any of the guide books and tourist information. I have since found a brochure that lists everything that is prohibited or restricted. Details can also be found at the following site:
www.quarantine.govt.nz
Hanmer Springs: apparently the bank is the only place to exchange money. However, it is open from 10am-2pm, and only on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. There is no ATM machine in town, either. One is best advised to exchange money prior to going to Hanmer Springs.
Don Ochs (Dec 98)
Films for slides are extremely expensive at NZ$18-20 per film.
Upon arrival in Auckland, we purchased a VIP card which granted discounts in accommodation, transport, museums, cinemas, etc. In our opinion, the card is very good value.
Helle Hansen & Karsten Mikkelsen, Denmark (Nov 98)
I did the Inland Pack Track in a day by cutting off a small part of the walk and starting at the river. A warning: make sure the river is low before trying to do the hike in a day; you have to cross the river about 17 times. A fun thing to do on a sunny, warm day but it probably stinks in the rain.
Sue Deyoe, USA (Oct 98)
Opening a bank account in New Zealand can prove very difficult. The Bank of New Zealand required a stay of 12 months and NZ$3000 to open an account while Westpac Bank asked for a fixed address in New Zealand (not a hostel or backpackers residence) and a stay of six months. ASB Bank (the Auckland branch) was very helpful, were willing to use our UK home address, issue a cashflow card on arrival (which can be used at all the other banks), and only required an opening deposit of NZ$500. There was a charge of $25 to open the account.
Their fax number is: (0064) 9-302-1815; phone: (0064) 9-377-8930.
Mrs A Filshie - UK (Jul 98)
Top Ten Club Card: this costs $15 and allows its holders to receive a 10% discount on accommodation or camping fees at any Top Ten campsite. These campsites can be found all over New Zealand and their quality is superb. Along with this discount you should receive a list at each campsite which outlines other discounts on particular attractions and activities in that area, eg, 10% discount on whale watching in Kaikoura or 10% off the entry fee to the Antarctica Centre in Christchurch. This card is valid for two years in New Zealand, Australia and America - well worth it!
Melanie Lowe - France (Jul 98)
A Youth Hostel card costs $30. Even if you don't intend to use it to stay in youth hostels, it may be worth the money as it entitles you to a 30% discount on train and bus tickets.
The Bank of New Zealand charges a 5% fee per travellers cheque. The National Bank doesn't charge anything.
Mariolanda van der Heijden - Netherlands (Jul 98)
Last year, the New Zealand YHA introduced a system whereby a reservation will not be held after 5pm, even if secured with a credit card. We got caught out with this in late December 1997. We made our booking via phone using a number from a regional guide (not the YHA guide), secured it (so we thought) with a credit card number and mobile phone number and mentioned that we would be late. At no point were we told about the 5pm cancellation time. When we arrived at 8pm we were told that our room had been given away at 5.30pm and were basically told to go away!
Clare Saunders-Tack (Apr 98)
If travelling in New Zealand and doing the Abel Tasman Tramp, it is important that you be warned that fresh water is not available on the hike. All water must be purified or boiled. Unfortunately the DOC officer failed to tell us this and we now have stomach infections. Bring purification tablets!
Hayley and Beth - Australia (Feb 1998)
We have just toured through New Zealand hunting out as many internet access points as possible. In general, this service is becoming very common and is easily accessible for a fee of anywhere from nothing to $10 for half an hour.
Simon Wallace (Nov 97)
I would like to recommend a service called 'Buzzavox', a small kiwi company who provide a 'virtual' answering machine for travellers in the form of a telephone mail box. Each traveller has a unique telephone number with PIN code and they can dial into their 'mail box' to record talking postcards about their travels. Friends and family can then phone in to hear these and leave their own messages for the traveller to collect. This service is currently available in Europe, America, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific.
Kevin Crampton - England (Nov 97)
Auckland Information Centre change of address:
22 Wellesley Street West
(near Chief Post Office).
Lise Pelletier - Canada (Nov 97)
If you are returning to the same town after a tramp it is easy enough to leave gear at a backpackers. However you may find yourself often ending up on the opposite side of the mountain at the end of the trek. In this case it is possible to forward luggage to the town where you end up. A full day pack can be sent for about $3. Also NZ is not a bad place to sell gear if you are travelling on and want to get rid of some weight.
Michael Kohn - USA (Nov 97)
Farm stays are highly recommended. WWOOF (Willing Workers On Organic Farms) books are available at the cycle store near Central City Backpackers in Auckland (they are probably also available at other places in major cities - check with your hostel/backpackers). Central City also has info on farm hands in New Zealand (similar to WWOOF but has a list of approximately 300 non-organic farms).
Keith Levi - USA (Oct 97)
Open a bank account with the Bank of New Zealand before you go for when you arrive. There are no bank fees on the saver account, a withdrawal credit card is issued and there are no fees for currency conversions. Send deposit cheques before you go and collect the cash from a hole in the wall when you arrive.
Simon Clegg - Australia (Oct 97)
There is a regular van service between Queenstown and Wanaka that runs three times daily each way. The cost is $25 per person. Call Wanaka Connections on 0800 879 926; fax: 443 8237. Their administration number is 752 0731(if you need to dial from outside the country). The Cardrona road between Queenstown and Wanaka is due to be sealed this summer.
Ron Rosenthal (Oct 98)
I had an Intercity Travelpass which allowed travelling on the Interislander ferry, the train and the intercity buses. But the buses only go once a day and a lot of the time when you have to transfer buses or trains, you have to wait another day because of that. This means that you lose two days on your pass, whereas if you took another bus (from a different bus company), it would only take you one day. So the Intercity Travelpass only pays off if you travel non-stop from one place to another without having to transfer, eg, from Auckland to Wellington.
Sandra Timmermans, Netherlands (Aug 98)
The Intercity terminal in Auckland closes at 7pm, so there is no need to grab a NZ$30 cab to get there after your United Airlines flight gets in at 6pm. They are only too happy to take your money at 7am the next morning.
Russell Chan - Australia (Feb 98)
Transporting the bike by train was no problem even though it is a tandem with a trailer. One point to note is that when booking, the operator will try to make a charge for 2 bikes as it is easier to put in the computer that way if they are told that it is a tandem. But insisting that it is two people and one bike results in being charged only once with a separate ticket for the bike.
Alan Kendall (Nov 97)
On driving from Te Anau to Milford Sound the weather is very changeable. Upon driving 100km of the 119km to Milford, we encountered heavy snow and an avalanche in late Spring. As a consequence of being unaware that this type of weather occurred on this road, we had to turn around and drive back to Te Anau. Luckily the next day we were able to get through to Milford but it was law to carry chains in the event that they would be needed. These can be hired for $22.50 and a bond on a credit card for $100 from the BP service station in Te Anau. I would recommend anyone travelling this stretch of road at any time of the year listen carefully to the weather on Southland radio and also carefully observe signs heading into Fiordland National Park for the road status, i.e., closed or open. If the signs say you must carry chains, it is law and you can be fined $500 for driving without them in your car.
Kylie Watts (Nov 97)
We hired a Mazda 323 Station Wagon for NZ$30 a day from Big Save Car Rentals, 43 The Strand, Parnell. The car easily accommodated four, plus baggage. The vehicle had air conditioning and whilst it was no powerhouse, the cost included insurance and breakdown/accident recovery. A phone call lengthened our hire contract quickly and easily.
Russell Hall & Helen Woodward - UK (Oct 97)
Lake Waikaremoana - Intercity no longer runs a bus service from Rotorua to Wairoa. There is no public transport to this great walk, which sucks. One suggestion I got later, which is useful for other hard to reach places, was to try rural mail carriers or couriers. Call the post office or courier in the largest nearby city and see if they have a service near your destination. If they do, see if you can hitch or pay a small fee to tag along.
Keith Levi - USA (Oct 97)
There is an often overlooked part of New Zealand that, in my opinion, is the very best one could ask for: Stewart Island. If you ever get the chance to travel to New Zealand's third island, do it! Stewart Island is a world of its own and will easily have you calling it your 'home away from home'. I went to the island with the intention of staying the night. It was two weeks later that I, sadly, got on the plane for the trip back to Invercargill. I can't explain the island's appeal - you have to see it for yourself.
Nathan Tidridge, Canada (Dec 98)
During my two and a half month stay in New Zealand, I walked almost all the great walks, along with many other tracks. The track I found the most diverse and beautiful - in a country like New Zealand where almost everything you see is breathtaking, it's very hard to rank tracks - is the Tongariro Northern Circuit.
I recommend visiting Kapiti Island, not only to bird watching freaks, but to anyone who
has never had a close look at parrots and other birds. This is the kind of place which rewards you for walking at a leisurely pace. I saw all kinds of beautiful birds that I have only heard in other
places. I had no problem obtaining a permit from DOC to visit the reserve. It might have to do
with the fact that it was in June, but I nevertheless had a wide variety of dates to choose from.
The northern part of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track is the best section; it is a shame many
trampers get off the track in Totaranui. Sitting on the rocks at Separation Point, watching the
seals playing and basking in the sun, and cormorants resting near by is so relaxing that you won't
want to leave. There is now a booking system during the season, so walking the track in May
guarantees huts which are nearly empty, secluded beaches, tranquillity and excellent
weather.
The Wilkin-Young Valley Circuit is indeed a walk of superb scenery. Note that DOC refers to it
as Gillespie Pass Track. I chose to take the wet and cold option of crossing the river by foot and
can understand those who opt for the jet-boat option.
Stopping in Punakaiki for only an hour just to see the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, as many
travellers do, is a big shame in my view. It's worth taking the time and staying in this area. When
I was there I went along with other backpackers to explore the limestone caves at night. We saw
glow worms and nice limestone formations. The Inland Packtrack is beautiful (much more than
the Pancake Rocks). You don't have to walk all of it to experience the wilderness, dense
vegetation and river. Even just a three hour return walk is enough in this sense.
Matukituki valley, near Wanaka, is one of the most beautiful valleys in the country in my
opinion. Even if you are not planning on walking a single track there (which I highly
recommend), just driving up there is worth it.
I opted for kayaking the Sound, rather than take one of the highly commercial cruises, and it was
one of the most amazing, magical days of my whole trip. From early morning, when the water
was still quite freezing, until the afternoon, we not only saw the Sound from the best perspective
possible but also had no decks packed with tourists, no diesel engines and no commentary via
speakers. Just four kayaks paddling around appreciating nature in its greatness. We were
surrounded all the time by dozens of dolphins and seals. They played with us and each other,
performing dives, back flips or just looking curiously at us. The funniest part was that the tourists
on the cruises took pictures of us in the water, when they could have joined us for a day I will
always remember. I couldn't get the smile of my face for several days.
On the Rakiura Track, I had an unexpected dinner feast. A German tramper and I shared the hut
with a group of six fishermen. I have never eaten so many Blue Cod and oysters as I did that
night. We were given the warmest hospitality from those Kiwis, which, as I learnt afterwards (for
this was the beginning of my stay in New Zealand) is common. It was worth walking the track, if only for that unforgettable night.
Roy Wiesner, Israel (Dec 98)
The museum in Wellington (the new National Museum) is a must. I'm not normally one for museums, but this one far exceeded my expectations.
Mark Coleman, UK (Nov 98)
Mimiwhangata Coastal Park: this park is a mixture of secluded bays with Rimariki Island offshore. It is surrounded by coastal forest and farmland, is great for walking and swimming/snorkelling and there are a number of birds nesting as well. The coastal park has weekly accommodation available: you need to contact the Park Manager on (09) 403 7685. You'll need to hire a car to get there but it's worth it for the peace, serenity and wonderful scenery. It's only two to three hours from Auckland: head north on route no 1 past Whangarei until you reach Whakapara. Turn right onto Russell Road until you reach Helena Bay, then turn right on Webb and follow the signs to Mimiwhangata. The road isn't all that good so take care.
Caro & Robert Kay, Australia (Aug 98)
Giselle Sweet-Escott - UK (Mar 98)
Foremost New Zealand novelist Janet Frame spent much of her childhood in Oamaru. Many of the places she mentions in her autobiography and books are still there. The police station with its single cell and bars is still there: Janet and her sisters used to pass this on their way to school and wonder if there might be a miscreant inside looking out at them. And there's the swimming pool where Janet Frame's sister Isobel died. The local tourist office organises a walk going round all the places in the town mentioned in Janet Frame's books. As New Zealand is low on culture, for book lovers, Oamaru is worth a pilgrimage.
Lucy Tomkins (Feb 98)
The Christchurch 'Festival of Romance' provided the perfect urban venue for chilling out and indulging all my senses. Running from the 6th to the 14th of February, it's an annual event comprising celebrity concerts, live gigs, culinary displays and craft exhibitions, centred around the atmospheric cloisters of the Arts Centre. Guaranteed to appeal to the backpacker market are the free outdoor concerts featuring national and international artists. The theme this year was 'Romancing the World', focusing on a variety of nations and cultures including Italy, France, the USA and the Pacific Rim. I was lucky enough to stumble across the Celtic evening, so grabbed a 'steinie' from the liquid refreshment tent and stretched out on the lawn to soak up the Irish/Scottish folksongs. Those like me who have left loved ones at home need not fear any slushy sentimentality as the festival certainly doesn't draw inspiration from the Barbara Cartland School of Romance.
The highlight for me came later that evening as I sauntered through the old university alcoves softly lit with atmospheric floodlights in the trees to discover the free open-air cinema under the stars. Another stretch of lawn beckoned and as I nestled in amongst all the other young things surrounded by their picnic blankets and bottles of wine, it was easy to get carried away with the mellow atmosphere, recalling scenes from the film Cinema Paradiso.
Movie buffs may also be interested to hear about Wanaka's classic movie theatre aptly named Cinema Paradiso, as it is indeed situated in a peaceful corner of paradise. For all those who are jaded by characterless American-style multi-screen complexes, this is a real find. After the local primary school have vacated what is essentially the village hall, a Scottish character takes over with his one-man show. Once the comfy old sofas are lined up in rows and the fridge is restocked with homemade ice-cream and freshly baked cookies, he welcomes all his patrons and introduces the film with true Celtic flair! As if this doesn't already sound too good to be true, there's a definite bias for art-house movies and an interlude to treat yourself to more hokey-pokey ice-cream. Now that's what I call an authentic cinema experience!
Philippa Reynolds - UK (Feb 98)
I had a caving adventure which is halfway between Auckland and Hamilton which, for me, knocked spots off the over-hyped, overcrowded Waitomo Caves. I'm talking about Nikau Caves which is a kilometre long series of gorgeous caves and caverns as high as a cathedral beneath a farm. It is called Whare Matoo at Waikaretu, a little way out of Tuakau. There are glow worms down there and also eels and freshwater crayfish in the stream that runs through it.
Ramsey Margolis - London (Nov 97)
Alternative touring route, NSH70: if you are heading towards Hanmer Springs or the West Coast and your whale watching experience has put you off the sea for a while, don't hesitate to use NSH70. The 25km north of the Mt Lyford Ski Area turn-off is unsealed but the road is well graded. The scenery is beautiful with the Seaward Kaikouras to the west and isolated rural homesteads set amongst rolling pastureland. Occasional river gorges are crossed. The wide and braided Waiau River is crossed at Waiau township by a one lane bridge with two passing bays.
John Morrow - New Zealand (Nov 97)
Paihia and Russel (Bay of Islands): both sea kayaking companies would not rent out to single kayakers for solo expeditions. It might be worthwhile calling tour operators to check on solo rental availability since this does not seem a unique restriction.
Rotorua: there is a redwood tree walk near 'Whaka' thermal reserve. It is awesome!! It is an experimental forest and has a visitor center (best redwoods this side of California). For those wishing to bypass the touristy Rotorua, this is a good place to hike for half an hour to six hours. Also with thermal areas, check the status of trails: two thirds of 'Whaka' was closed for repairs when I was there and it was not worth the NZ$10. Trail closures are posted outside the ticket booth.
Keith Levi - USA (Oct 97)
NEW ZEALAND
