home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- Path: sparky!uunet!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!cantva!elec140
- Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
- Subject: Re: Suggestion on prop for ASP .75 ?
- Message-ID: <1992Nov8.213926.1@csc.canterbury.ac.nz>
- From: elec140@csc.canterbury.ac.nz
- Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1992 08:39:26 GMT
- References: <2450@rnivh.rni.sub.org> <$stevee.25.0@sasb.byu.edu> <2475@rnivh.rni.sub.org>
- Organization: University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand
- Nntp-Posting-Host: cantva.canterbury.ac.nz
- Lines: 91
-
- In article <2475@rnivh.rni.sub.org>, torsten@rnivh.rni.sub.org (Torsten Leibold) writes:
- > $stevee@sasb.byu.edu (Stephen Eldredge) writes:
- >
- >> I am interested about your
- >>model though. I have been toying with the idea of buying the Dynaflite
- >>Mustang .60. After having built one what do you think? Would you consider
- >>doing a construction review of it for us? It's been quite a while since we
- >>have seen anything really interesting lately in this group. (I know, its
- >>different for others but hey...) In particular I'm interested in the
- >>configuration of the airframe. Is it fairly accurate in scale details?
- >>Flaps? Retracts? How does it build up? Would it be possible to mount the
- >>engine at an angle so that the head doesn't ruin the profile lines? Info on
- >>this kind of stuff would be great.
- >
- > I'm almost about to finish the plane. So far, I'd say I'd buy it
- > again, although the wood quality is not the best (the exactness of the
- > die-cut parts also).
- > The kit is quite cheap and there's much work to do until you are able
- > to take a lokk on the raw frame. But actually that's what I wanted.
- > The can be completed buy any advanced builder who has already finished
- > some kits without worrying too much about the building instructions
- > (cause Dynaflite doesn't provide many :-).
-
- I've built and modified a Dynaflight 40 sized Spitfire, so thought I'd
- throw in a few comments.
- I second the comments about the wood and die-cutting quality - neither
- are particularly good (I'd just built an Airtronics kit before the
- Spit so the contrast was huge...)
- It's a good kit to modify, since you don't feel bad about cutting
- into or discarding a beautifully shaped kit part...
-
- > No, the airframe is not scale at all. It has a flat bottom airfoil
- > with a very strong ( <- is that right ?) thickness. The thickness
- > decreases rapidly from the center to the tips. But this will make the
- > plane quite stable I guess. There's no room for flaps unless you are
- > willing to split the ailerons. Also, it would be quite challenging to
- > install retractable gear. It is intended to mount the usual steel gear
- > on a maple block which is connected to 3 ribs.
-
- The Spitfire also has quite a thick wing, and this does make it fly
- nicely. It's also not particularly scale (e.g. flat rear fuse bottom),
- but does look the part in the air, especially with the gear retracted.
- Typing about retracts... I added them to the Spit which is supposed
- to have the wire-in-maple-blocks you described above, so they should go
- into the larger Mustang alright. Having said that, to get the retracts
- in I had to move the wing spar back 3/4", which meant recutting all
- the spar notches in the ribs. I added extra ribs and ply reinforcing
- in front of the spar to support hardwood bearers for the retract units.
- Obviously the wheel wells have to be fabricated as well. I put the retract
- servo in the wing centre section in front of the spar where it didn't
- interfere with the aileron servo. To take the extra weight of the
- retract setup I replaced the balsa wing spars with spruce and fibreglassed
- the centre section.
-
- > The plans suggest holding the wing with rubber bands (my o my), which
- > I do not appreciate. I installed my own construction which includes
- > two 6mm nylon screws holding the wing (that was not too difficult to
- > cope with). Ah, BTW 6mm are about 1/4".
-
- I noticed that the cutaway diagram on the Spit instruction sheet also
- showed the wing attached with rubber bands. Thankfully the kit provided
- dowel and nylon bolt attachment.
-
- > Yes, you could install the engine upside down, so the head won't ruin
- > the outline, but it would make handling more complicated (the plans
- > doesn't mention that either) and so I installed the usual way, I won't
- > see much of it in the air anyway ...
-
- I mounted my engine upside down, and it's totally hidden within the nose
- outline (except for the silencer). The plans called for mounting the
- engine on hardwood bearers - I added extra ply laminations to the
- firewall and used a commercial radial mount.
-
-
- Over all, the kit's seem to be what you pay for - quite cheap. However
- if you don't mind a bit of work in the building stage they produce good
- models - the Spitfire flies very nicely indeed, even slows right down
- for 3-point landings without tip-stalling.
-
- *********************************************************
- Chris Kaiser
- Postgrad - Elec Eng Dept
- Canterbury University
- Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
-
- E.MAIL: kaiser@elec.canterbury.ac.nz
- *********************************************************
- "When you're fresh out of lawyers
- You don't know how good it's gonna feel"
- - Al Stewart, 1988
- *********************************************************
-