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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!psinntp!balltown!welty
- From: welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty)
- Subject: Re: Rear brake trouble Alfa Romeo Giulietta
- Message-ID: <1992Jul30.194748.26261@cabot.balltown.cma.COM>
- Keywords: Alfa, brakes
- Organization: New York State Institute for Sebastian Cabot Studies
- References: <eur.711971721@dutncp8>
- Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 19:47:48 GMT
- Lines: 74
-
- In article <eur.711971721@dutncp8> eur@dutncp2.tn.tudelft.nl (Eur van Andel) writes:
-
- >I bought two Alfa Romeo Giulietta's for $300 and have some trouble.
-
- >As you may or may not know, the rear disc brakes on an Alfa Romeo are
- >near the gearbox/clutch in the back. My brake pads are worn, and I'd
- >like to replace them.
-
- i presume from this that you're talking about the ``new Giulietta'',
- as the 750/101 series Giuliettas wouldn't be going for $300 in any
- market i know of. besides that, the 750 and 101 series cars didn't
- have disc brakes; they had large, pretty finned aluminum drums.
-
- >SS is a small bolt to adjust the inner cylinder for the handbrake.
-
- >II is an imbus (inner hexagonal) bolt with a nut NN on it to fasten it.
- >It is supposed to be for adjusting the handbrake on the outer cylinder.
-
- >The trouble is: I can put the new brake pad in on the inside, but not in
- >the outside. However I turn the nut or imbus bolt, the outside cylinder
- >ceeps coming to the disk, and no amount of force can move it back.
-
- the setup is nearly identical to that on my Alfa Milano (Alfa 75 in
- europe.) the direction that you turn the adjusters on the brake calipers
- tends to be non-obvious and non-symetrical on these cars (they are italian,
- after all.) i cannot remember the details, but if you can adjust one
- caliper, then when you go to adjust the other caliper, one of the
- adjusters turns in the same direction as the matching one on the
- first caliper, and the other turns in the opposite direction from the
- matching one on the first. also, it takes a bit of turning before
- there is enough space.
-
- try putting the old pad back in. spin the halfshaft. try turning the
- adjuster down until the pad grabs the rotor. then you know that you
- have to turn the adjustor the other way to get the pad to fit. if the
- pad never grabs the rotor, then you should gradually be able to grab
- the pad and wiggle it more and more as the adjustor goes out, then
- you're turning it the right way to begin with.
-
- >I can't seem to remove the brake either, because of nut nn.
- >This is the nut which tightens the brake to the gearbox, but if I turn it
- >it comes against the disc and that's it. There is too little space
- >between the disc and the bolt out of the gearbox to remove the nut.
-
- you have to drop the disc out to pull the caliper; this is a tedious
- job. it may be easy and boring, or, if the bolts holding the
- halfshafts to the discs are frozen, it may be difficult and throughly
- obnoxious. i'd try and deal with the adjustors in place before removing
- the caliper. i've changed the pads on the rear end of my 75 and a
- friends GTV-6, and believe me, it isn't impossible, just nasty.
- the price you pay for inboard rear brakes is difficult pad and rotor
- replacement. sigh.
-
- >Has anyone removed such a brake succesfully? My manual says:
- >remove nuts, remove claw. :-(
-
- [``to assemble, reverse the disassembly procedure'']
-
- >The disc is bolted to the gearbox-axle with six imbus bolts, and you can
- >guess how corroded they are :-<
-
- right. you need to soak them throughly and repeatedly with some sort
- of penetrating oil if you want to loosen them, and then get an appropriate
- Allen head socket (what you are calling imbus we call allen head in the
- US) and a very long breaker bar. if you use heat, then you may end up
- having to repack the CVs and replace the CV boots.
-
- cheers,
- richard
- --
- richard welty 518-393-7228
- welty@cabot.balltown.cma.com
- ``if you can read this, mario, you're too close''
- -- bumper sticker seen on a CART safety truck
-