 |
In the early 12th century, a new cultural influence was to appear on the Iberian Peninsula: the Romanesque. This was a time marked by the consolidation of the Christian kingdoms, a process which coincided with the weakening and the break up of Al Andalus. The Soria area was repopulated by settlers from the North as well as from Toledo, Aragon and Andalusia, a fact borne witness to by some of the names of the villages in the province.
The Romanesque encompassed a whole culture and constituted a way of understanding and expressing Christianity through theology, liturgy and art , one which the Popes wished to extend in their endeavour to unify European Christianity. This new liturgy and art was to clash with, and eventually overcome, other Christian cultures such as the Mozarabic, itself so deeply rooted here in Soria.
The Romanesque was brought to Spain from France by bishops and monks from the Cluny monastery, which successive Popes had entrusted with the task of diffusing the Cluniac Reform. Indicative of the sheer dominance of this French styled culture that was soon to become deeply rooted in the local diocese albeit with some features highly particular to this area was the presence in Soria of three successive French born bishops, who came to be known as the three monks of Cluny.
|
 |
Consequently, the cathedral would become a significant centre for art and culture and attracted a number of eminent figures. One such personality, St Dominic of Guzmßn, who we can remember by visiting his native village of Caleruega, was for some time a canon in Burgo de Osma. He turned down the possibility of becoming bishop of the diocese in order to establish, in the early 13th century, the Order of Preachers which in time was to spread all over the world the Dominicans.
 |
1st ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA, SAN ESTEBAN DE GORMAZ, CARACENA |
Leaving Burgo de Osma by the N122 highway and heading towards Valladolid, we reach San Esteban de Gormaz.
In all likelihood Roman in origin, the town of San Esteban de Gormaz was repopulated by the Count Gonzalo Fernßndez in the 10th century. It was one of the so called öGateways of Castileö which, together with Gormaz and Osma, constituted a district known in the Middle Ages by the name of Las Tres Casas (öThe Three Housesö). They were the only fortified towns to be found along this part of the Duero river. Encircled by walls that, like its castle, lie in ruins, the town nevertheless retains two of the most important examples of Castilian Romanesque churches, namely those of San Miguel and Nuestra Se±ora del Rivero.
Church of San MiguelThe Church of San Miguel was built in 1081 as we are reminded by an inscription that continues with the words öJuliano Magister fecitö. It is a very simple building featuring a nave with an apse and a tower. Its most outstanding feature, however, is the side portico. As far as we know, San Miguel is the oldest porticoed church in the province of Soria and was to act as a prototype for all others in these border lands. Although there is not sufficient evidence as to the reason behind this portico, it was quite possibly used as a shelter against the harsh Castilian climate or perhaps as a meeting place for neighbors or for town councils. Comprising seven semicircular arches, this portico would set the pattern for the number of arches that were typically used in many of the Castilian porticoed churches. Looking out from the church, one can appreciate the charm of the hilly streets and the typical houses of San Esteban de Gormaz.
 |
A very similar structure to that of San Miguel, although built at a slightly later date. Since the church is situated upon a hillock overlooking the town and countryside, the portico is an interesting place from which to view the surrounding scenery.
From San Esteban de Gormaz we turn off towards La Rasa and Navapalos where we find the very interesting Centro de Interacci≤n de Construcciones en Tierra (Interactive Earth Construction Center) where the typical clay construction techniques of this area are taught. The road to Caracena takes us through Fresno de Caracena (featuring a Romanesque church) and some of the bleakest and yet most beautiful and solitary countryside to be seen in Castilla. The traveller is usually accompanied on his journey by great silence and the graceful flight of the vultures.
From San Esteban de Gormaz we turn off towards La Rasa and Navapalos where we find the very interesting Centro de Interacci≤n de Construcciones en Tierra (Interactive Earth Construction Center) where the typical clay construction techniques of this area are taught. The road to Caracena takes us through Fresno de Caracena (featuring a Romanesque church) and some of the bleakest and yet most beautiful and solitary countryside to be seen in Castilla. The traveller is usually accompanied on his journey by great silence and the graceful flight of the vultures.
Eglise de San PedroIn keeping with the Castilian model, San Pedro features a portico comprising seven semicircular arches, elaborate capitals and magnificent corbelling reminiscent of the Silos style.
 |
Santa Marφa has an aisleless nave and a very rudimentary tower. It features a latticework window and three stones decorated with braiding, which probably came from another building that has long since disappeared.
One of the best panoramic views of Caracena can be enjoyed from the Church of Santa Marφa, lying as it does on the edge of the ravine hollowed out by the River Caracena. Here, we have the ravine on our left, the watchtower on our right and opposite us the Church of San Pedro, framed by the castle ruins.
 |
 | 2nd ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA , ANDALUZ , BERLANGA DE DUERO, CALTOJAR , RELLO. |
Leaving Burgo de Osma on the C 116 road towards Almazßn, after about 20 km we come to a crossroads. Here, we take a left turn to Andaluz.
Andaluz is situated at the opening of a magnificent natural mountain pass through which the river Andaluz flows. This is the route taken by those travelling from the villages in the north of the province to the banks of the River Duero. Andaluz takes its name from the Andalusian Mozarabs who in former times came here to repopulate the village.
Church of San MiguelSan Miguel is one of the oldest known Romanesque monuments in Soria. Its porticoed gallery still has its Mozarabic stone floor and features alternate single and four shafted pillars. The embossed motifs appearing on the spandrels remain an enigma. The church also has a small yet interesting museum.
 |
Berlanga del Duero is the administrative centre of the region known as Marquesado de Berlanga, which comprises the lands that were handed over to El Cid Campeador by King Alfonso VI. As is the case with many villages in this area, Berlanga had a troubled history during the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries, in which it was to witness a constant coming and going of Christians and Moslems in what was a conflictive border area.
However, once the kingdom of Castile was truly established, the importance of Berlanga steadily grew. It was the home of the powerful Tovar family, whom we are reminded of by the major monuments of the town.
The CastleWhereas the original castle was built during the 10th and 11th centuries on the defensive borderline along the River Duero, the structure we see today dates back to the 15th century. The latter has two enclosures: a high walled outer one and an inner one defended by strong low level stone drums. Commanding the whole castle is the keep.
The Collegiate ChurchBerlanga originally had ten churches which were destroyed, their parishes being brought together under the Collegiate Church of Santa Marφa del Mercado. The latter is situated near the beautiful arcaded Main Square, where there is plaque that refers to El Cid. Built by the architect Juan Rasines, the church was consecrated in 1530. Although Gothic in design, we can see numerous details of the Renaissance period. Amongst the significant carvings, tombs and altarpieces to be seen in the Collegiate Church, two are worthy of special mention: the 16th century altarpiece which, crafted by the master mason of Osma, stands on the Gospel side in the Bravo de Laguna family chapel; and the 15th century Santa Ana altarpiece, which is likewise to be found on the Gospel side.
 |
From Berlanga Castle, there is a splendid panoramic view of the town and of the ravine through which the River Escalope flows.
Following the same road, formerly a ca±ada real or track for the transhumance of livestock, we will reach Caltojar, often accompanied by birds of prey circling above our heads.
San Miguel ranks as the building of greatest interest in this village whose stone and adobe houses are so typical of the Soria area. A very beautiful transitional style church, it displays a certain Cistercian influence, which is possibly to be traced to the nearby Abbey of Santa Marφa de Huerta. It was built in a traditional design featuring a nave and two aisles, along with a triple apse east end, of which only the central one, complete with numerous masonÆs markings, still survives. Its austere, simple walls are worthy of special mention, one of which has a Cistercian rose window which lets in the intense Sorian daylight. The apse exterior is adorned with arcading and foiled modillions. The magnificent church pulpit is a clear example of the combination of cultures that took place throughout the border area marked by the River Duero. Comprising a single piece of stone, it is decorated with Mudejar style sgraffito, the polychrome finish of which has partially disappeared.
Following the road from Berlanga to Caltojar, we turn left when we reach Riba de Escalote and take the road to Rello.
 |
Of the so called ötoothlikeö villages in the Soria area (villages built on high cliffs), Rello is the one with the best preserved gates and walls. Built in gray stone and situated amidst a bleak plateau, this village is perched atop a high cliff carved out by the River Escalote and its tributary, thus forming one of the most beautiful yet starkest views of the Sorian countryside.
One of the most pleasant aspects of Rello is a leisurely walk around the village, taking in its medieval atmosphere: its houses, its walls and the village square with its iron pillory from which the village name derived. From up on the walkway that runs round the village as if looking out from a continuous balcony one can enjoy the deep gorges of the River Escalope standing out against the background of the high plateau that is rich in fossils.
 | 3rd ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA, CALATAÑAZOR, SORIA. |
Leaving Burgo de Osma on the N 122 highway towards Soria, we come across a road leading to Calata±azor.
The name of Calata±azor is linked to the renowned figure of Al Mansur (in Spanish, Almanzor) and the legendary battle that took place here in 1002. On the hill of Calata±azor, soaring up above the valley below, the houses of the old town seem to huddle together. Rising up amidst the walls that encircle the latter is the tall tower belonging to the castle that in former times was the residence of Do±a Marφa de Molina, the Adelantada Mayor or Governess of Castile.
 |
Calata±azor boasts two Romanesque churches, one of which, the Hermitage of La Soledad, lies at the beginning of the road that leads into the village, whereas the other, Santa Maria del Castillo, is to be found at the heart of the village itself. The latter underwent alterations in the 16th century and has a small museum.
A beautiful panoramic view of the plain surrounded by hills forested with savins and with the Urbi≤n mountain range in the distance can be seen from the castle keep. On leaving Calata±azor, as we head for the road to Soria, there is a sharp bend, at which point one should look back and contemplate the spectacular view of the village.
As we make our way towards Soria, we have the opportunity of visiting many beautiful Romanesque churches (5th Itinerary).
 | 4th ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA , UCERO, CA╤╙N DE R═O LOBOS |
Leaving Burgo de Osma on the SO 920 road, we reach the village of Ucero. This is the entrance to Ca±≤n de Rφo Lobos.
The River Lobos flows through a scenery of high rocky walls in which a series of caves, crevices and chasms are to be found all of which are typical features of karst landscapes such as this. Predominant amongst the plant species on display here are savins, pine trees and oaks, whereas the local wildlife comprises eagles, vultures, hawks, kites, eagle owls and barn owls, along with a number of mammal species such as roebuck, wild boar and fox. At the foot of the gorge stands the Hermitage of San BartolomΘ which, built by the Templars in late Romanesque style, features a series of masonÆs markings and a rose window whose design is that of a five pointed star.
 |
 | 5th ITINERARY: SORIA, ALMAZ┴N, MOR╙N DE ALMAZ┴N , MONTEAGUDO DE LAS VICAR═AS , SANTA MAR═A DE HUERTA. |
Leaving Soria on the N 111 highway we eventually reach Almazßn. Our itinerary continues along the C 116 towards Mor≤n de Almazßn and Monteagudo de Vicarφas, and then joins the N II highway that takes us to Santa Maria de Huerta.
Soria was finally reconquered by King Alfonso the Battler in 1119 and subsequently became part of Castile in 1136, on being handed over to Alfonso VII by Ramiro de Arag≤n.
Church of Santo DomingoThe most interesting feature of this 12th century Romanesque church is its original faτade which, comprising two rows of superimposed arches, is crowned by a rose window. Gracing its portal are four archivolts that depict the life of Christ in great detail. The tympanum portrays the Holy Trinity surrounded by angels, the Virgin Mary and St John.
 |
This 12th century Romanesque church was built in the shape of a Latin cross and included an aspe and a transept, a design that was not at all common in Castilian Romanesque. San Juan de Duero.
 |
Its main portal is Romanesque in style and features four archivolts and an elaborate tympanum. This portal once belonged to the former Church of San Nicolßs, a fact we are reminded of by the representation of St Nicholas himself, seated at the center of the tympanum.
Monteagudo is yet another example of a hilltop village that is encircled by walls occasionally pierced by gateways. Lying as it did on the Aragon border, subsequent to being reconquered it was given to Beltrßn Duguesclin and at a later date it came to form part of the lands belonging to the Count of Altamira.
CastleGuarded by two towers, this 15th century castle still preserves a Renaissance courtyard adorned by grotesques.
ChurchThe faτade of this 15th century church has Aragonese style Renaissance arches and a pulpit with Mudejar plaster work.
 |
Situated near Monteagudo, this tower at one time marked the boundary separating the bishoprics of Osma and Sigⁿenza. Lying at its feet is the Hermitage of Nuestra Se±ora de la Torre, one half of which falls within Castilian territory, the other half belonging to Arag≤n. Inside the hermitage stands the baptismal font that once acted as the boundary stone between the two kingdoms.
The Monastery of Santa Marφa de Huerta stands in the middle of a fertile valley by the banks of the River Jal≤n. This Cistercian monastery was founded in the 12th century by King Alfonso VII and later came under the protection of Alfonso VIII of Castile and the Arag≤n monarchy. The monks were expelled in 1833, as a result of which the monastery was reduced to the status of a simple parish church. In 1882, it was declared as belonging to Spanish National Heritage.
 |
There are two separate cloisters: on the one hand, the 15th century Claustro de los Caballeros decorated in Plateresque style, and on the other, the Baroque style Claustro de la Hospederφa.
From Claustro de los Caballeros there is access to the refectory, itself considered to be the true masterpiece of the monastery, constituting as it does one of the purest and most elegant examples of Gothic architecture. Taking the shape of a wide vessel covered with sexpartite vaulting, the refectory is illuminated by a great rose window and a series of ogival arched openings. One of its outstanding features is a stairway which, set into the wall, leads up to the pulpit. Adjacent to the refectory is the well preserved monumental kitchen.
