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One particular, long lasting period of the history of the lands of the Duero basin was to leave an indelible mark on Soria, a mark that is characteristic of borderland areas, both with regard to their landscape and the spirit of their inhabitants.
The said period of time beginning in the year 711 was one in which the Christians of Hispania had organized their land into dioceses (the Burgo de Osma diocese had already been created) and which was to witness the invasion of the Iberian Peninsula by Islam, a civilization that had been emerging in the Mediterranean area and which would gradually conquer this land from south to north.
Before long a major part of Hispania was to be subjected to Moslem rule and two very different societies would begin to take shape. Developing to the south was Al Andalus, the urban, commercial Islamic society strongly linked to the Mediterranean Sea. To the north, protected by the Cantabrian mountain range, was a much poorer society of mountain dwellers which, led by Visigoths and Franks, endeavoured to direct the resistance against the invaders, embraced Christianity and protected those fleeing from the occupied territories, amongst whom were various exiled bishops from Osma. Lying between each of these societies were what can be termed borderland territories.
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For the Christians in this area, these were times of ödesolation and hopeö, a nigh imposible hope expressed so well in the öbeatosö or manuscripts referring to the Apocalypsis, such as the one kept at Burgos Cathedral. This period of history is easily evoked when travelling through the Sorian countryside. Memories of Moslem dominance and war are frequently brought to our minds as we pass a series of towers, castles and watchtowers and above all when we visit the line of Moslem strongholds stretching from Osma to ┴greda: Calata±azor, Almazßn, Berlanga, San Esteban and in particular Gormaz. It was from this line that practically all of the Islamic attacks were launched, those of the dreaded Almanzor being directed from his headquarters at Medinaceli.
In certain places and villages it is also possible to evoke those small Mozarabic Christian communities that lived, as JimΘnez Lozano has written, öin what can be called kibbutz or frontier settlements hidden in valleys, behind thickets, or sheltered by other geological formations; such places harboured spiritual resistance against Islamism, even though the character and way of life of these Christians displayed a clear Islamic influenceö. One of the places where we can come close to such Mozarabic communities is the small and fascinating Hermitage of San Baudelio
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1 st ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA, GORMAZ, BERLANGA DE DUERO, CASILLAS DE BERLANGA, CALTOJAR, ALMAZÁN |
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Burgo de Osma San Esteban de Gormaz Berlanga de Duero Almazán |
Leaving Burgo de Osma on the SO 160 road, at about 14 km we come to Gormaz.
This magnificent fortress at Gormaz is the only example of Moslem defensive construction that is still preserved on the Northern plateau. Built in the caliphal period (10th century) as a defensive enclosure against Christian attack, it was subsequently conquered in 1059 by Alfonso VI and handed over to El Cid.
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At the very heart of the borderland, which was at times Christian and at others Moslem, one of the most beautiful pieces of Mozarabic art still remains. Situated on the slopes of a now bleak and inhospitable valley that up until the 19th century was covered with a dense oak forest, the Hermitage of San Baudelio sits upon the bare limestone rock that was used for its construction.
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The saintÆs relics were taken to Toledo during the Visigothic era, but later after the Moslem conquest many were taken to different parts of the Peninsula. Thus, the Church of San Baudelio became a kind of symbolic martyrium in the saintÆs honour and a shrine for his relics, which perhaps once lay upon the slim, central, palm shaped buttress.
The structure of the hermitage consists of two cubic bodies that are reminiscent of certain imaginary designs of Mozarabic miniatures. In reality, the building arose not as a church but rather as a small fort, acting as a lookout tower commanding the Berlanga region, which was such a dangerous area in the 11th century. This explains why, with the exception of two small splayed windows, the only daylight to enter the enclosure does so through the doorway featuring a double caliphal arch.
A robust palm shaped pillar stands in the center of the nave as a symbol of Christian and Moslem paradise. At one time it was decorated with hunting scenes painted in distemper but in 1926 they were stolen and sold. Some of these paintings can now be seen in the Prado Museum.
As we leave San Baudelio, we head towards Rello. After a few kilometers we can see Caltojar and its marvellous Romanesque church (See: "THE FRENCH OR THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE ROMANESQUE"). The road follows the valley of the river Escalote and turns off towards Rello, a hilltop village surrounded by walls. (See previous reference). We continue on until we reach Barahona and here we take the SO 101 road to Almazßn, making our way across the bare, red clay plains.
Set in the heart of the Duero basin, throughout its history this border village lying between the kingdoms of Castile and Arag≤n was subjected to the political vicissitudes of frontier struggles and witnessed the frequent clashes between Christians and Moslems. The interior of the magnificent Church of San Miguel provides the clearest example of the above mentioned cultural blend.
WallsAlmazßn still boasts remains of its important 13th century wall. Although some parts of it have been destroyed and others are now hidden by subsequent buildings, the magnificent Herreros and Berlanga (or Market) gates with their towers and pointed archways still remain. On the corner between the Market Gate and the walls a large cylindrical tower called the öRollo de las Monjasö rises into the sky.
Church of San MiguelThis church was built, long before the city walls, in a prominent part of the old part of town which commands an impressive view over the fertile Duero valley.
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Main Square, was built in various stages between the 15th and 18th centuries. Its late Renaissance faτade is worthy of mention, as is its semicircular arched interior gallery that commands a view of the river Duero flowing towards Gormaz territory. Typical pine forests can be made out in the distance against the background of the Sorian mountain range. There is an interesting view from the observation point situated between the Church of San Miguel and Hurtado de Mendoza Palace in the Main Square, from where we can see the river Duero as it wends its way across the fertile plain.
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2 nd ITINERARY: SORIA, NUMANCIA, ONCALA, YANGUAS |
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Soria |
This old monastery, abandoned in the 18th century, was built by the order of St John of Jerusalem. The church itself and the original 13th century cloisters still survive today. Featuring as it does four irregular sides and chamfered corners, the building reveals influences of both the Romanesque (semicircular arches) and the M·dejar (intertwined horseshoe arches), a fact which makes this monastery a unique example of medieval Christian architecture.
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Oncala is situated in the Alba mountain range. The church has a magnificent collection of 17th century tapestries crafted on well known cartoons by Rubens. Some of his sketches are kept in the Prado Museum.
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Situated on a hillock and surrounded by the mountains lining the deep valley of the River Cidacos, this village was reconquered by the kingdom of Navarre in the 11th century.
The houses with heraldic stone engravings and the remains of the Arab walls lend it a certain medieval air. The 12th century Romanesque Tower of San Miguel is worthy of special mention due to the fact that it is an original combination of the sturdy Castilian towers and the more gracefully styled Catalonian ones. The bridge over the River Cidacos is possibly Roman.
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3rd ITINERARY: SORIA, ALMENAR, NOVIERCAS, ÓLVEGA, ÁGREDA, VOZMEDIANO |
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Ólvega Ágreda |
As we leave Soria, we follow the N234 road until we reach Almenar.
This small village beside the River Retuero has a graceful castle that dates back to the late Middle Ages and which is reinforced by a cylindrical tower at each corner.
Following the SO 101 road we come to:
Situated in the vicinity of the Madero mountain range in the ┴greda region, this village was repopulated by the Mozarabs, to whom it owes its beautiful 10th century caliphal tower. The doorway to the latter features a horseshoe arch which, standing 3.5 metres from the ground, is characteristic of the Islamic architectural style.
One of the most splendid altarpieces in the whole of the province of Soria is to be found in this villageÆs 15th century church. It also has a Baroque faτade dating back to the 17th century.
Nestling amongst the foothills of the Iberian Mountain Range, this town is the administrative seat of the region known as Tierra de ┴greda. Lying as it does on the border separating Castile, Navarre and Aragon, ┴greda was also to be directly affected by the changing fortunes of the struggles between Christian and Moslem forces.
┴greda is one of the finest exponents of the combination of Castilian and Aragonese architectural elements, and constitutes what is one of the most important artistic ensembles in the province of Soria. Its Romanesque churches mark the eastern limit of the Castilian style, whereas certain elements of its secular architecture such as the use of rubblework combined with brick and the crowning of towers and galleries with brick arcading and pronounced eaves are a clear indication of the influence of Aragonese (or Mudejar Aragonese) architecture. All in all, ┴greda is to be seen as the synthesis of three cultures, the Jews, the Moslems and the Christians having lived side by side not without the occasional conflict until they were each in turn expelled.
Walls┴greda, like all border cities, was surrounded by walls that in this case dated back to Roman times. The walls were reinforced and modified by the Arabs, and still surviving today at one section of their former perimeter are two caliphal gateways.
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This is the oldest church in ┴greda which, built in Romanesque style, was consecrated in the late 12th century. The construction of two unequal naves was probably due to the religious necessities of converted Jews or Moriscos or even, perhaps, for its use as a synagogue. The altarpieces inside are well worth a visit.
Church of San MiguelThis late Gothic style church features an aisleless nave and chapels. The square Romanesque tower and Plateresque altarpieces are its most interesting elements.
Castejones PalaceAlthough this village was of greatest importance in the Middle Ages when it belonged to the Crown, in later years it came under the protection of the Castejones family. The only surviving reminder of the influence this family wielded is the palace that bears their name. Built in almost Herrerian sobriety, the highlights of this 17th century structure are its central courtyard and dome covered staircase.
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Leaving ┴greda, we take the road SO 382 towards Vozmediano.
Lying on the slopes of the Moncayo mountain is this border area between the lands of Castile and Arag≤n. Silently bearing witness to the VozmedianoÆs history is its 15th century castle, which features a double walled enclosure. Nearby rises the River Queiles, which has one of the most abundant sources in Europe.
