THE RESTLESS BAROQUE
AND THE BAROQUE OF REASON

Introduction

It is indeed no easy task to set out a route around the lands of Soria tracing the influence either of the restless Baroque or of rationalistic Neoclassicism, the latter being referred to here as the öBaroque of Reasonö. Whereas the Renaissance is well represented within the diocese, which boasts such buildings as the University of Santa Catalina, San Augustin Hospital and the Santo Domingo de Guzman Seminary in Burgo de Osma, the truth is that the architecture of the 17th and 18th centuries was not to leave a great mark on the Soria area.

For the whole of Spain the 17th century was a time of great crisis, a crisis that would particularly affect Soria, faced as it was by the dwindling potential of what was the foundation of its economy livestock farming. Moreover, Soria was not the sort of area in which members of civil authority would want to settle and erect buildings of significance.

Hospital de S. Agustín (ppa)

Indeed, at this point in time the Church alone seemed to have the capacity and the will to build and any construction it undertook was strictly linked to the needs of the episcopal see. Thus, in response to the increase in needs due to the times of crisis, a number of educational and charitable institutions belonging to the bishopric were either built or extended. In Burgo de Osma, San Augustin Hospital underwent magnificent alterations and, with the aid of King Charles III, the Hospice and Council Seminary were built. At the same time, the bishopric also constructed a number of chapels and altarpieces and even, as was the case with Burgo de Osma Cathedral, crowned certain churches with beautiful Baroque towers. The latter were churches that had originally been Romanesque in design, but which over the centuries had undergone the addition of various elements reflecting each of the successive architectural styles, thus bearing witness both to the passing of time and to the changes in religious attitudes. Apart from these buildings commissioned by the Church, the only other edifices reminiscent of this period of the dioceseÆs history are certain residences belonging to the nobility. The very shortage of such buildings speaks louder than words. Whereas Soria is deemed to be lacking in terms of significant artistic manifestations of the Baroque, it is no less true that Neoclassicism, the 18th century style expressing the rationalism of the Enlightenment, is itself even more poorly represented here.

Exterior de la girola de la catedral y capilla del Venerable Palafox (ppa)

And once again it was to be in Burgo de Osma where, with the encouragement of the Bishopric and the Crown, this desire for the triumph of reason and geometry would be expressed, in the shape of the Capilla del Venerable Palafox, the chapel built in honour of Palafox, the bishop of Osma who also became bishop and viceroy of Mexico and whose canonization was at that time believed to be nigh. Not far away, with the support of the Church, Bishop Calder≤n ordered the construction of the Main Square or Plaza Mayor, which, both on a representational and commercial level, gave a certain structure to the urban area of the episcopal see.

Due to the fact that signs of the Baroque are very scarce and tend to be limited to certain areas, we shall not attempt to draw up a special route linking them. What we have done is to simply identify them by means of their own colour coding whenever they appear on other routes. Nevertheless, we do urge you, whatever itinerary you may be following, not to overlook the small works of Baroque art such as miniature altarpieces and religious paintings and images that abound here just as they do in any other diocese in Spain. If we look beyond all purely superficial considerations, such works of art, regardless of their individual artistic value, will reveal some of the experiences and feelings often apparently contradictory ones characteristic of the Baroque and the people living at that time: their concerns, their deep piety, their tentative searchings, their exaltation and their emotions...

ITINERARY: BURGO DE OSMA, SORIA, VINUESA, COVALEDA, LAGUNA NEGRA

Burgo de Osma
 Soria
Vinuesa
Covaleda


BURGO DE OSMA

Cathedral Tower

This Baroque tower was erected in replacement of a previous one. Crafted in limestone, work on its construction was begun in 1739 by the architect Domingo Ondßtegui. Featuring a square ground plan, the first section of the tower is adorned with coats of arms belonging to Bishop Agustφn de la Cuadra. The second section has openings for the bells, along with pediments, sunken pilasters and a balustrade crowned by a dome featuring a lantern and a spire.

San Agustφn Hospital

Remodeled at the beginning of the 18th century, the Baroque style of this building is to be seen above all in its faτade, which comprises a niche framed by Solomonic pillars holding a statue of St Augustine. At either end of the building there are two towers adorned with coats of arms and crowned with slate pinnacles and spires.

SORIA

Palaces

As we walk down Calle de la Aduana Vieja we come across the former Jesuits College which nowadays is a secondary school called Instituto Antonio Machado. The school building has a simple Baroque style doorway bearing the coat of arms of King Charles III. Not far from here is the Palace of the Count of Eza, complete with its fine coat of arms featuring complex Baroque ornamentation. The other street that once housed the residences of the nobility is that which still bears the name Calle de los Caballeros, or öRoad of the Knightsö. At the beginning of the road is the Baroque palace of Fuerteventura that once defended the Rabanera Gate.

Hermitage of San Saturio

This 18th century hermitage, located two kilometers from Soria, was built over a cave on the banks of the River Duero. Featuring an octagonal design, it is covered by a dome adorned with 18th century frescos. The main altarpiece, likewise Baroque in style, has an image containing the relics of the saint.

Ermita de San Saturio

VINUESA

Situated deep in the Iberian Mountain Range, this village contains reminders of its former greatness. It features abundant examples of a characteristic secular architecture that displays a profoundly popular style. Its beautiful 18th century palatial residences are graced by attractive balconies and wooden eaves. On the way towards the 18th century palace belonging to the Marquis of Vilue±a, we are afforded a view of the Santa InΘs gorge, along which the River Revinuesa is seen to flow. Also worthy of mention in Vinuesa is its 16th century church featuring a nave and two aisles, thick columns and rib vaulting.

La Casa de los Ramos en Vinuesa

Other noteworthy buildings here are two beautiful 18th century palaces: that belonging to Don Pedro de Neyla and that of Vi±uela.

COVALEDA

Lying amidst pinewoods further up the River Duero on the way to Laguna Negra, this is one of the richest villages in the country, thanks to its dedication to the exploitation of pines. Vestiges also remain of a primitive Celtiberian settlement. The dwellings in Covaleda are made of stone, emphasising the fact that this is a true mountain village.

LA LAGUNA NEGRA

La Laguna Negra

This is a lake of glacial origin that stands at a height of 2,000 meters. Its granite walls lend it a dark and mysterious air and, surrounded by extensive pinewoods and beech groves, it looks at its most beautiful when covered by snow.