Ferret FAQ

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Ferret FAQ (Single File)

This page has been accessed more than [lots of] times since May 29, 1996.

The Ferret FAQ is available as a set of HTML documents, a single HTML file [216 kB] or plain text (by FTP).

Also see:

Part 1: About Ferrets and This FAQ

0. About this FAQ

1. Where to get more information

2. Revision history of these files

3. Introduction to ferrets

Part 2: Ferret Care

4. Getting a pet ferret

5. Getting ready for your ferret

6. Ferret supplies

Part 3: Training and Behavior

7. Basic ferret care and training

8. Things ferrets say and do

Part 4: Health Care

9. Basic health care

10. Problems to watch for and related information

Part 5: Medical Overview

11. Common health problems

12. General medical information

13. Medical reference material

Medical FAQs

Other FAQs

Where to get this FAQ

This FAQ is available as an indexed, cross-linked set of HTML documents, as a single HTML document [130kB] which can be easily downloaded and browsed locally, or as a set of five fully-indexed, text-only files (by FTP).

The text files are posted around the 20th of each month to the rec.pets, alt.pets.ferrets, alt.answers, rec.answers, and news.answers newsgroups. It's stored on various internet access systems and BBS's, including Compuserve and (I think) AOL, and it can be found in either English or Japanese (possibly a slightly older version) in library3 of the FPETS forum in Japan's NiftyServe system. For information about translations of the FAQ, email me or see the list at Ferret Central . If you don't have access to FTP, or if the server is busy (as it often is), you can also request them by mail. You can receive all five parts in separate email messages by sending a message to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message) 

GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send a command like 
GET ANSWERS PART1 FERRET

If all else fails, send me <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> email and I'll be glad to send you a copy.

Goal of this FAQ

A number of books exist which were written by experts and are intended to be comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior and medical problems. This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those. However, there seemed to be a need for a document which covers many of the basic questions in a fairly light way. Originally, this was intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List.

Over the months, however, the FAQ grew, and its purpose broadened. More general questions, and especially more medical information, were included. Although I can't claim that this is now a comprehensive guide to ferret ownership, it is a good source of information and collective opinion about a wide range of subjects. Whether you're new to ferrets or a long-time owner, chances are this FAQ will have something interesting for you.

Credits and editor's notes

Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and indented. Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene, <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>) or compiled from a number of contributions.

Special thanks to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, Dr. Susan Brown, DVM, and Dr. Mike Dutton, DVM, for all their efforts on behalf of the members of the Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends". Thanks also to Ayumi Takeshima for her excellent (I'm told) Japanese translation of the FAQ, and to Tetsuro Oka for updating that translation and translating the Medical FAQs.

Thanks also to the many people from the Ferret Mailing List who contributed (perhaps unwittingly!) responses, comments, and corrections, too many to list here (at last count, the list included 97 different people).

Ferret FAQ copyright and redistribution information

This compilation, which comprises numerous files as described on and "pointed to" (directly or indirectly) by its main Index page, is copyright © 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety (all 5 files), including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution. It may not be used or included in any commercial or for-profit work without prior written permission. (For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online are granted permission to distribute the files provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Anyone who wishes to is encouraged to include a link to the main Index page of this document set wherever it might be appropriate.

Is there a shorter FAQ to hand out at meetings? Are there FAQs for particular diseases?

There are five parts to the main Ferret FAQ. The contents of those parts are listed in the index.

If you're looking for something to hand out at pet stores, vets' offices, club meetings, and so forth, you might want the Ferret mini-FAQ, a much shorter document which covers all the basics and is formatted to be printed out. It's available as a Postscript file by FTP, or you can email your postal address to me at <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> to get a copy on paper.

There are also FAQ's dedicated to several common diseases:

These FAQs are not posted to any newsgroup, but you can FTP them. You can also receive them from a mailserver. To get a copy of all the files, each in a separate email message, send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the single line (in the body of the message): 
GET DISEASE PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send one of these commands: 
GET ADRENAL DISEASE FERRET
GET INSULIN DISEASE FERRET
GET LYMPH DISEASE FERRET
GET SKIN TUMORS FERRET
GET CARDIO DISEASE FERRET
GET ENLARGED SPLEEN FERRET
GET GREEN VIRUS FERRET
GET GASTRIC ULCERS FERRET
Finally, there is a single-part Ferret Natural History FAQ, which contains information on ferret biology, history, domestication, taxonomy, and so forth. It's also available from Ferret Central, or from the listserver using the command 
GET NATURAL HISTORY FERRET
You can also send me <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> email and I'll be glad to send you whichever files you'd like.

How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog?

An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, organizations, vets and catalogs is maintained by STAR*Ferrets. It is also available from a list server. Send email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the line 
SEND FERRET DATABASE
in the body. Note that the file is rather long, around 114K, which may give some mailers problems.

How do I join the Ferret Mailing List?

The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended. To subscribe to the FML, send email to its moderator, Bill Gruber, at <ferret-request@cunyvm.cuny.edu> and ask to be added. You can also try subscribing automatically by sending email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> with the command 
SUBSCRIBE FERRET <first-name> <last-name>
in the body of the email.

You'll get a note back detailing policies and such and explaining how to send letters to the list. Back issues of the FML are available by sending the command INDEX FERRET in the body of email to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu>,and an unofficial WWW archive is also available, though not quite as complete.

What about interactive online chats?

There are at least two interactive WWW chat/talk servers, the Ferret Chat Server (meetings 8-10 p.m. Eastern time) and Ferret World's Ferret Talk . Various IRC chats exist, on servers such as undernet.org, irc.mcgill.ca, irc.quarterdeck.com, or irc.eskimo.com. Specific server/channel combinations include For more information about IRC, consult the IRC FAQ. A weekly online chat also happens on AOL, Saturdays 10pm - midnight Eastern time. Sometimes there are guest speakers. This chat is only acccessible to AOL users: go to keyword "Petcare", then select "Animal Talk Room 1".

Where can I find pictures or clip-art of ferrets online?

[Phto of a ferret, full side view]
The Ferret Photo Gallery has a large collection of JPEGs and GIFs much like this one. There are also the Equipment How-To Photos, which show and describe examples of cages, shoulder bags, collars, and so forth.

The Oregon Ferret Association has a clipart archive , and Bob Nixon maintains an FTP site with many ferret pictures, too. Files there which start with "clip-" are clip-art.

Most of the pictures at one site are also at the other.

Is there any other information available online?

Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup rec.pets. The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there as well, and is also available by FTP. Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum (GO PETSTWO).

An index of ferret information is available from Ferret Central .

Various ferret-related information is available from the file server at CUNY; send the command 

INDEX FERRET
to <listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu> for a complete list, with descriptions.

What are some of the books available?

Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues. Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually available in pet stores. A few of the more popular are
Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, by James G. Fox. Lea and Febiger, Philadelphia. ISBN 0-8121-1139-7

The Pet Ferret Owner's Manual, by Judith A. Bell, DVM, PhD. ISBN 0-9646477-2-9 PB, 0-9646477-1-0 LB. Clear, well-written and comprehensive, with lots of color photographs. Dr. Bell is an internationally known expert on ferret medicine and care.

A Practical Guide to Ferrets, by Deborah Jeans. Contact the author at Ferrets Inc., P. O. Box 450099, Miami, FL 33245-0099; fax 305-285-6963.
"Excellent, easy to read, very thorough and up to date, and written with a lot of love and care," says Dr. Susan Brown, DVM.

Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton. Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985. ISBN 0-8120-2976-3
A relatively short, but well-written guide. Not as in-depth as some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets.

Ferrets in Your Home, by Wendy Winsted. T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4
Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable. Includes, for instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also more expensive.

Revision history

For links to sections with significant changes, see What's New in the Ferret FAQ.

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date at the top. For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the version number, but I'll always change the date.

What are ferrets? Do they make good pets?

[Photo of a ferret, full side view]
Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. (Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed ferrets, polecats, and fishers.) They are not rodents; taxonomically they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs. They are friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in personality, but rather smaller. They can only see reasonably well, but they have excellent senses of hearing and smell. Some are cuddly, others more independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.

What's good about ferrets as pets?

[Photo of a ferret pushing an empty ice cream cone across the floor]
Ferrets are a lot of fun. They are very playful, with each other and with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get older. A ferret -- or better, two or more -- can be a very entertaining companion. They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at least they act it. They are also very inquisitive and remarkably determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a bother. They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though for some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond.

They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra trouble. Barring accidents, ferrets typically live 6-10 years.

Okay, what's the catch?

Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and training at first. They're "higher maintenance" than cats; they'll take more of your time and attention. Although most ferrets get along reasonably well with cats and dogs , it's not guaranteed, so if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much.

Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions. They love to steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet. Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

Are ferrets wild? Why are there ferret permits?

Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius furo), are not wild animals. They have been domesticated for a very long time, perhaps a two or three thousand years. If yours got free it would not survive; it would almost certainly die of dehydration or starvation within a few days. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge.

Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. They weren't supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but it's still fairly popular in the U.K. and some other places.

What's an FFZ, and why do they exist?

A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or illegal. In some other places, ferret owners are required to have licenses or permits. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid, but I'd say that the underlying ones are that (1) many people don't understand what a pet ferret is, and (2) the power plays which seem to be inevitable in the world of politics sometimes end up being more important than truth or fairness. (Cynical but unfortunately true.)

What are some of those invalid reasons, you ask? Well, a common one is that ferrets are seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks, rather than a domestic species like housecats. Of course, ferrets have been domesticated for roughly 3000 years, longer than cats have. Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious rabies danger; in fact, studies have indicated that it's very hard for a ferret to catch rabies, and when one does, it dies very quickly, so the danger is very small indeed. Besides, there's a ferret rabies vaccine which has been shown to be effective. A third common reason for banning ferrets is the idea that escaped pets will form feral packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife. There are exactly zero confirmed cases of feral ferrets (as opposed to polecats or polecat-ferret crosses, for instance) in the U.S., and a few deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have failed miserably, so this, too, is an unfounded fear -- even if one could picture a ferret harming a cow or breaking into a commercial poultry farm.

The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations.

Why so much confusion?

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come from mistaking them for their wild cousins. It's very difficult to tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North America.

Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of the domestic ferret. They are an endangered species: the only BFFs known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming. However, despite similar appearances, the BFF is not very closely related to the domestic ferret.

Are ferrets legal where I live? Do I need a license?

Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state or province, county, and city.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of FFZs. If you have or want more information, contact her at <redshoes@ix.netcom.com> or on CompuServe at 71257,3153.

Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal. A more extensive list is also available.

California, Hawaii

Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, Beaumont, and various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa, OK; Salt Lake City, UT

Many military bases ban ferrets. It seems to be at the discretion of the base commander.

Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or ticketed.

Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the following places: New York State ($10/year), New Jersey ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free). Permits are also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain.

These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy a ferret.

I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets?

There's really no way to tell. You could be highly allergic to some other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets. If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. Allergies might make you sneeze, or you might have a skin reaction from touching or being scratched by a ferret. One person wrote me to say he was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves.

How much do ferrets cost?

Prices for ferrets vary widely from place to place, and depending on where you get the ferret. Prices for stores and breeders are usually in the US) $75-$250 range, typically around $100. Plan on another $250 for a cage and supplies, plus around $75 for the first batch of vaccinations.

Of course, there are also regular costs of caring for the ferret. They don't eat much, so food and litter aren't a huge expense, but there are also treats and hairball remedies, plus the annual checkups and vacciantions. In addition, you should count on at least one $300 vet visit once or twice in each ferret's lifetime, from his getting sick, being in an accident, or eating something he shouldn't, and any emergency vet visit will cost at least $100.

Do ferrets smell bad? What can I do about it?

Ferrets have an odor all their own, just like any pet. Some people like the musky scent, a few can't stand it, and most are in between. (Personally, I think it's much better than wet doggy smell or cat box stench.) If the ferret isn't yet altered, having that done will cut down on the odor a lot; whole males, particularly, have a very strong smell. Young kits also have a peculiar, sharp scent which they lose as they get a bit older.

Descenting a ferret doesn't change the day-to-day smell. Only the scent glands near the tail are removed, which prevents the ferret from releasing bad-smelling musk if it's frightened, but doesn't stop the normal musky oils which come from glands throughout the skin.

The two big things you can do to cut down on your ferret's odor are to bathe him less -- yes, less -- often and to clean his bedding more often. Most of the musk stays in the cloth, on the litter or paper, and on your floors and furniture, not on the ferret himself. Cleaning them can be a big help. Also, right after a bath the ferret's skin glands go into overdrive to replenish the oils you just washed away, so for a few days the ferret will actually smell worse. Some people have also had good luck with various air filter systems.

Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but there's a difference between having both children and pets, and getting a pet for your child. It's important to remember that a ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of attention and care. It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or guinea pig. If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young, and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret will be a great pet. Otherwise, consider getting a rodent you can keep in a cage instead.

Supervise children with any pets

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

What about ferrets attacking babies?

There are several stories floating around about ferrets attacking babies, some more true than others. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of information. Some of the reports are simply rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret. Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused prior to the attack). Still others are unfortunately true.

However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs and cats. The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs. People don't claim that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.

According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing List

The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three, cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants. One in the UK, and one or two in the US. In none of these cases has it been proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK). And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented. But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times *less* likely to cause injury than a dog. Indeed, every year there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US alone. Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks ever recorded in the US.
Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:
I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too.

Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt.

What are the different ferret colors?

Ferrets often change colors with the seasons, lighter in the winter than in the summer, and many of them lighten as they age, too. Different ferret organizations recognize different colors and patterns, but unless you're planning to enter your ferret in a show, the exact label isn't particularly important. Some of the more commonly accepted colors are described in general terms below, adapted from summaries written by William and Diane Killian of Zen and the Art of Ferrets and Pam Grant of STAR*Ferrets.

The albino is the old true ferret color. White with red eyes and pink nose. A dark-eyed white can have very light eyes and can possibly be confused with an albino. These can actually range from white to cream colored with the whiter the color the better. A dark-eyed white (often called a black-eyed white) is a ferret with white guard hairs but eyes darker than the red of an albino.

The sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights, with a white to golden undercoat. A black sable has blue-black guard hairs with no golden or brownish cast, with a white to cream undercoat.

The chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights.

A cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown with a golden to white undercoat. This can also be used to describe a ferret with light, tan guard hairs with pinkish or reddish highlights. Straight tan is a champagne.

A silver starts out grey, or white with a few black hairs. The ferret may or may not have a mask. There is a tendency for the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body. As a ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage of white rather than dark guard hairs. Eventually the ferret could be all white.

White patches on the throat might be called throat stars, throat stripes, or bibs; white toes, mitts (sometimes called silver mitts), or stockings go progressively further up the legs. A blaze or badger has a white stripe on the top of the head, and a panda has a fully white head. A siamese has a darker color on the legs and tail, and a V-shaped mask.

What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?

[Photo of a male and a female ferret] [Photo of a young ferret kit]
An unneutered male is called a hob, and an unspayed female is a jill. Officially, neutered males (first picture, on the right) are gibs and neutered females are sprites (on the left), but those words aren't as commonly used. A baby ferret of either gender (second picture) is a kit.

The most commonly accepted phrase for a group is "a business of ferrets". Some people spell it "busyness" instead. Another possibility, "fastening" or "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a misreading of "bysnys" long ago.

How can I help the ferret community?

There are lots of ways you can help the ferret community at large. If your ferrets are very trustworthy and have had their vaccinations, take them with you to the park or pet store and show people what wonderful pets they are, to counteract all the false rumors. Give good ferret information, perhaps a copy of this general FAQ and the Medical FAQs, to your vet.

Adopt, foster, or sponsor a ferret from a local shelter, or donate old towels, food, litter, cages, money, or time. Many shelters could use help with construction projects, computer setup and use, recordkeeping, etc., as well as day-to-day ferret care, cage cleaning, and trips to the vet. (However, shelter directors are very busy people, and may have established routines they'd rather not have disrupted, so don't be offended if your offer of help is refused. Ask if there's something else you could do instead.) To find a shelter near you, see the STAR*Ferrets list of ferret clubs, shelters, etc..

Donate money to the Morris Animal Foundation's study to determine the rabies shedding time in ferrets, so our furry friends will enjoy the same legal protection as dogs and cats if they nip someone, and won't be immediately killed for testing (in some states). Send your tax-deductible contribution to Morris Animal Foundation/Ferret Shed Study, 45 Inverness Drive East, Englewood, CO 80112-5480, and write "ferret shed study" as a note on your check.

Participate in the "Support Our Shelters" coupon book program, in which you send $25 and receive a book of grocery store coupons of YOUR choice worth at least $200.

Which color is the best? Male or female? What age?

Color

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than color or gender. Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have been bred from long-time pet stock. Basically, though, choose the color according to your own preference.

Gender

[Photo of a male and a female ferret]
There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male and a female. Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and 3-5 pounds (that's 45 cm and 1.3 to 2.3 kg, in the US; European-bred ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds (40 cm and 0.5 to 1.3 kg) for females. Males' heads are usually wider, which can give them a more cat-like appearance. If you're getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male. (Unless you're specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets.)

Age

[Photo of a young kit playing in a coffee mug]
There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best for a new owner. Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be litter- and nip-trained, but they are larger and may have acquired bad habits, too. Kits are very cute, and their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new owner, but they require a little more care and training and will become very active before too long.

How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be around much, two or more will keep each other company. They'll also be more fun, but more responsibility. Many people have three, five or more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it you. There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time, too. I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going to get several, although it's certainly not necessary. If you decide you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along just fine. There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of either gender in any combination.

Where can I get a pet ferret? What should I look for?

Where to go

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper placed by small breeders with kits to sell or people who want to sell older ferrets.

You can also often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the country as well. This may not be the best choice for a new owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral problems. (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.)

What to look for

In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude. You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities. Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough.

What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear? What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

Blue dots on the ear

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New York. Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets. Some people feel that MF's efforts to produce ferrets for lab use might have resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy, but there's no evidence to support that. In fact, for many types of research, genetically diverse animals are needed.

Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a tattooed ferret may not be from MF. Regardless, Marshall Farms ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred them.

About Marshall Farms

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:
There has been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning Marshall Farms ferrets. I'm not sure where they got started, but let's try to put this subject to bed.

Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors. So do ALL ferrets . We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4 and 6, but not why. But it is certainly not Marshall Farms' responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops a tumor... To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with Marshall Farms ferrets. Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall Farms is the biggest breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets. I don't condone laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals for that matter and I don't do any. But I have never seen any problems with Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to Marshall Farms.

Jeff Johnston, an epidemiologist (though not a ferret vet), adds:
The bigger risk for so-called "congenic" animals is not cancer, which seems to be the alleged association with MF ferrets, but infectious disease since a microbe that is seriously infectious to one animal, will be equally infectious to all. And I haven't heard anyone report that MF ferrets are more susceptible to infectious disease than other ferrets.

I don't believe that the evidence exists to convict Marshall Farms of breeding ferrets with defects. And now that so many allegations have been lobbed against them, the information gathered about MF ferrets is almost certainly biased. This happens all the time in the epidemiology of genetic diseases. A particular defect occurs twice in a family--perhaps coincidentally--and the family and their doctors go out of their way to look for it.

How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?

[This section was written by Kelleen Andrews, with contributions from me and others. Thanks, Kelleen!]

Dominance fighting is normal in ferret introductions. The severity can range from nearly nonexistent to all-out war. Prepare for the worst, and then anything less than that will seem like a piece of cake! Patience is the most important virtue. Often all is well in 3-14 days but sometimes peace is not achieved for 3, 5, or even 7 months. Ferrets that have been away from other ferrets for two years or more tend to take longer to adapt. Keep in mind that your final goal is well worth the work and that having two or more ferrets that have each other to love and play with is the greatest joy you -- and they -- may ever know!

Many techniques can be used to ease the transition. No one technique works on all ferrets; a combination of them has the best chance of success. Reassure all ferrets often that everything is OK and they are loved.

Unfortunately in very rare instances peace is never achieved and a new home may need to be found for the newcomer. Of course you'll want to be sure the new home will be understanding and loving, but also make sure the prospective new owner is aware of the problems the ferret has had getting along with yours, since even if he wasn't the aggressive one it will affect his relations with other ferrets. You don't want him to end up being passed from house to house, never able to fit in.

Sometimes, even after an established ferret and a newcomer have stopped fighting, the first ferret may start to act depressed, especially if he's used to being an "only ferret". Ferret psychology is still an undeveloped field, but most people interpret this glumness as jealousy or resentment of the new ferret. Be sure to pay plenty of attention to all your pets, and give the depressed ferret a couple of months to adapt. Chances are he'll come to see the new ferret as a playmate instead of an interloper. In extreme cases, you may need to resign yourself to only having one ferret, and find a good home for the other(s).

Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

[Photo of a young ferret and a cat]
Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents, lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions. For a dog or cat, introduce them SLOWLY, preferably in neutral territory such as a park. Give the new animal a chance to get used to you and your home before introducing it to the other pets one at a time. For the first week or so, hold both animals (two humans is handy here) and just let them smell each other a few times a day. Over the next week or two, gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely, until they're used to each other. Once you're convinced that they're used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely, but supervise them for a while to be sure.

It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing to play, but there are plenty of exceptions. The same is probably true of dogs.

How can I best ferretproof my home? What do I need to worry about?

[Photo of a plexiglas door barrier]
As every ferret owner knows, our little friends love to get into trouble. Whether your ferrets live in a cage when you're not around or are free all the time, whether they live in a single room or have the run of the house, the first line of defense, both for your ferrets and for your possessions, is a well-ferretproofed home.

Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under or behind a refrigerator or other appliance (with exposed wires, fans, insulation, and other dangers), into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor and under cabinets, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh; be sure to leave ventilation around appliances. For doorways, try a smooth piece of plywood or plexiglas slid into slots attached to the sides of the doorway; for cabinets, use baby locks. Recliners and sofa-beds are very dangerous; many ferrets have gotten crushed in the levers and springs underneath. Even regular couches can be dangerous if the ferret digs or crawls his way into the springs or stuffing.

Next, look around the area your ferret will be playing. Remove anything spongy from reach, and put fragile items out of the way. Keep in mind that many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers, and they excel at finding complicated routes to places you never thought they could reach. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a bathtub, and into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker. They can also open cabinets and drawers, unzip backpacks, and climb up drawers from behind to get onto the kitchen counter.

So many things to investigate

Apart from obvious dangers such as bottles of household cleaners, which ferrets do sometimes like to drink, be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, foam earplugs, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages. For some reason, many ferrets like to eat soap, so you'll have to keep that away from them. (A little lick won't hurt your ferret, just give her a bit of diarrhea, but large amounts can be a problem.) Human foods should also be kept out of reach, since even the ones which aren't dangerous to ferrets aren't good for them in large quantities.

Be careful about full bathtubs, where your ferret might possibly drown, and consider keeping your toilet lid closed for the same reason. Buckets of water, paint, etc. can also be drowning or poisoning hazards, or might just be tipped over. Toilet paper and paper towel rolls are a problem because ferrets get their heads stuck in them and can choke or suffocate, and if you let your ferret play with plastic bags, cut off the handles and cut a slit in the bottom.

Certain ferrets may also have special ferretproofing needs; for example, some like to eat paper, cloth, or plastic bags, which can easily cause a life-threatening intenstinal blockage. A few ferrets like to chew on electrical cords or plants, and some common plants are quite poisonous. Liberal application of Bitter Apple paste to the cord or plant can help persuade your pet to stop gnawing on it.

What's that about cats and curiosity?

Finally, once your home is done, it's important to keep it safe. Watch your ferret's toys to make sure they're not beginning to crack or break apart, and keep in mind that you can be dangerous to your ferret, too. Always double-check your dishwasher, refrigerator, clothes washer and dryer (even top-loading models) before closing them or turning them on, and watch where you sit and walk: that chair, throw rug, or pile of laundry might be hiding a napping ferret.

How can I protect my carpet, plants, or couch?

Carpet

Many ferrets dig at the carpet, especially near doors that are closed. It's very difficult to teach them not to do it. You're better off protecting your carpet by putting down a piece of plastic carpet protector from an office-supply store. Chances are your ferret will get bored with digging when she shees she's not getting anywhere, though it might take a while for that to happen. A carpet scrap or sample from a carpet store might work, too, although your pet will be able to shred it, so she might not give up as quickly. For out-of-the-way places, wire mesh can be nailed to the floor through the carpet; be sure to protect any sharp corners or points. You can also help control your ferret's digging by giving her somewhere approved to dig. A box filled with dirt, sand and gravel, then set into a larger box to contain the mess, can be great fun to a ferret. You can also let your ferret dig outside, closely supervised of course.

Plants

 Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots.

Couches

If your ferret scratches at the underside of your couch to get through the fabric into the bottom, try taking off the couch's legs, if it has them. Heavy cloth or plywood stapled or nailed to the bottom can work, too, though ferrets can often rip cloth loose. Sometimes ferrets try to get into the bottom or arms of the couch by burrowing between the cushions and the back or sides. This is much harder to prevent, but some people have had good luck blocking the area with cloth or wood, stapled, nailed, taped or sewn to the couch. You can also give in and remove the bottom fabric and lower stuffing from your couch, putting a piece of plywood on the springs and the cushions on that. Then it doesn't matter as much if your ferrets get into the bottom, as long as they don't get caught between the cushions and the springs. Many ferret owners find it simpler to give up and get a futon or a "suspended" couch that doesn't have an inside in the first place.

What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

You will need:

More details

[Photo of a ferret wearing an H-type harness]
Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements that nearly every ferret considers a wonderful treat. Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things. The paste will probably be much more effective. You may want an H-type harness and a leash for walks. Ferrets love to play in, and empty, water bowls, so you might want to give them a rabbit-type water bottle instead, or at least provide one in case their bowl gets tipped over.

About litter pans

You will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home. Small-size cat litter pans work fine, as do plastic dishpans, storage boxes, or large school supply boxes. Many ferrets don't seem to like the special triangular corner boxes, probably since they can't climb all the way in, but yours might. (Before buying one, ask ferret-owning friends. Chances are somebody has one sitting around that his ferrets never use.) For a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches). Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily. This is especially true for a young kit.

If you're particularly sensitive to cleaning pans or to litter pan odor, one novel suggestion was to use empty milk jugs, standing upright, with the circular indentation on the side cut out. Use only a small amount of litter, and the whole jug can then be thrown away when it gets dirty.

Do I need a cage? Where can I get one? How should I set it up?

Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed room whenever they can't be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing indigestible objects, injury, and escape. However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of training as well as for temporary use.

Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but overall I think wire-mesh cages are better. Tanks may be easier to clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the room. Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap. Plain wood cages aren't recommended because the wood soaks up urine and other liquids, so getting the smell out and getting the cage really clean are nearly impossible. If you use wood, cover the floors with linoleum squares or coat the whole thing with polyurethane.

What size cage will I need?

[Photo of a ferret cage]
If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm). A second or third ferret could share that size cage. If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation, 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three. For trips around town, a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well.

Where can I get a cage?

One option is to make the cage yourself. It may be cheaper than a store-bought cage, and you can get exactly the size and configuration you want. Photos and descriptions of various types of homemade cages, as well as instructions for building one of them, are available. Of course, pet stores and catalogs have lots of cages, too. Multiple-level "cat condos" are probably the most popular storebought cages. Some people like the easily cleaned medium or large size plastic dog kennels, modified to make multiple levels, although others think that they don't provide enough ventilation or contact with the outside world. Many of the condos for sale in pet stores are made by Midwest and are available for less from Dog Outfitters (cheaper than Ferret Outfitters). Call 1-800-FOR-DOGS. Safeguard will make custom cages to your design, and also sells several standard cages. You can call them at 1-800-433-1819. Sorry, I don't have numbers for international callers. (This is not intended as an advertisement. Specific products are mentioned here only because people keep asking about them.)

What should be in the cage?

[Photo of a ferret's bed basket]
In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old towels make excellent bedding, as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. Don't use wood shavings.

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you. Hammocks made from old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys will also be enjoyed. Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or some other way. Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and rather intelligent escape artists. Twist ties, cable ties, or bits of wire often work well for fastening down litter pans or some bowls; and small bungee cords can be enormously handy for holding all kinds of things down, up, or closed.

Any suggestions on toys?

Store-bought toys

[Photo of a ferret playing with a plastic ball in a corner] [Photo of a ferret carrying off a squeaky toy]
Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause digestive-tract blockages. Most ferrets are rather harder on toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly. Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed (the little "webbed" ones break too easily). Soft vinyl rubber is okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed. For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's mouth, and take them away when they start to crack. Avoid superballs: ferrets love to chew them to bits and eat the pieces. Cat or dog squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked. Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats. Remote-control cars are also popular, if somewhat expensive, ferret toys, though they may prefer chewing on the wheels.

Homemade toys

[Photo of a ferret in a hammock] [Photo of a ferret playing with a rolled-up sock on a string]
Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe belts, tennis balls, golf balls, ping-pong balls, film canisters (rinsed to wash out any chemicals), or old socks with bells rolled up in them. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Cardboard boxes are also fun, especially several nested together with ferret-sized holes cut at various places. Plastic bottles can be turned into clear ferret play-tubes by cutting off their tops and taping them together. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too. Avoid tubes from toilet paper or paper towels, though; they're small enough that ferrets can get their heads stuck in them and choke or suffocate.

[Photo of a ferret in a piece of dryer hose]
An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about 4" (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap any loose wire ends. Be sure that your real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through. Clear dryer hose is even more fun, though less sturdy. One brand is Clear Duct by Dryer Mate, Model No. P48-C, a product of Nemco, Inc.. If you can't find any locally, you should be able to order the original hose in 8-foot lengths or by the foot, or new heavy-duty hose in 20-foot pieces or also by the foot. Contact Crissey Fowler Lumber, 117 W. Vermijo Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903, 719-473-2411, fax 719-473-0653. Talk to Stan in Plumbing.

Everything else

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as well. Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or that might hurt your pet, well out of reach. Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret, but there are some things you can do to protect your plants.

What kind of collar/bell/tag/leash should I use?

Collar material

[Photo of two ferret collars and tags] [Photo of a ferret wearing a collar] [Photo of a ferret wearing an H-type harness]
Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well. A leather boot lace can also make a fine collar; just knot it at the right size. For walks, you'll probably want an H-type harness, but that's a little much to leave on all the time. The problem you may run into with a nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously. Also, be aware that both nylon and leather can shrink if they get wet, so never leave a wet collar on your pet; it may shrink and choke him as it dries.

Sizing the collar

For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together. Be sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled. For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone.

Leashes

The cordlike figure-8 leash with a screw for adjustments, sold wrapped around a cardboard cutout of a ferret, isn't the best choice for a leash. It's too easy to get out of and too hard to adjust, the adjustment nut can break, and the cord can chafe the ferret. A flat nylon H-type harness with a leash clipped to the back will work much better.

Bells and tags

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on a kit as young as 9 weeks. The slot on some of the smallest bells is easy to get a nail stuck in, though, so you may need to widen it a little with a nail file.

I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen. Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar. You can also attach the collar and tag using a neatly trimmed piece of stiff wire. For a nylon or leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the ground.

Do the ferrets mind?

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar or bell, although the first time we put them on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

What should I feed my ferret?

Kitten or cat food

Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. We've found that an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great.

The key ingredients are fat and protein, specifically animal protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough sustenance from vegetable proteins. Look for chicken or poultry, not fish. The food needs to have 30-35% protein and 15-20% fat, and animal protein should be the first ingredient and at least two or three of the next few.

Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be switched to the cat versions.

Unless your ferret is overweight, you should just keep her bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Ferret food

Alhough ferrets do just fine on cat food, several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist. If you decide to use a ferret food, check its label just as carefully as you would for cat food: just because it says it's formulated for ferrets doesn't mean it really is.

One popular brand is Totally Ferret, which has received good reviews by a number of owners. If you food. If you can't find any locally, you can call the manufacturer, Performance Foods, at 1-800-843-1738 or write them at 38251 Industrial Park Blvd., Lisbon, OH 44432 to find out the nearest distributor.

Other stuff

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well.

About ethoxyquin

Every so often, a discussion starts up about ethoxyquin, which is used in many pet foods to preserve the unsaturated fats. In short, it's very unlikely that there's any problem. The amount of ethoxyquin used in cat food is far below the maximum concentration allowed by the FDA. No adverse effects have been shown in any studies, including some done by researchers not affiliated with any pet food company. In fact, ethoxyquin has been shown to have an anticancer effect in cats. Foods which don't contain ethoxyquin use high levels of vitamin E instead, at greatly increased cost and generally reduced shelf life.

Laura L'Heureux Kupkee, a veterinary student, says:

The original reports about ethoxyquin were started by one single dog breeder whose bitch lost pups. They did not know why, so they thought they'd send a [food] sample to a chemist friend. The friend analyzed it, and said it contained ethoxyquin, a component in car-tire manufacturing [but then, so are a lot of things, including many compounds remarkably similar to Petromalt and probably water]. The breeder was shocked and immediately blamed the ethoxyquin, the newspapers grabbed it, and now here we are. There was never any mention of the fact that the bitch in question may also have had some autoimmune problems. Nor was there *any* proof that the chemical caused the abortion of the pups.

Variety and change

In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you've been using changes or is suddenly unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as edible. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before you run out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're getting half each, then phase out A. (Also see information on supplements, as well as fruits, vegetables, and treats.)

Should I give my ferret any supplements?

Ferretone and Linatone

Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although their exact composition is a bit different. Both of these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess, though it probably takes a whole lot more than you'd ever give your ferret. However, like hairball remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can give your ferrets loose stools. No more than a few drops to one pump a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good food.

Hairball remedies

Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat, too. As with all treats and supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for a ferret's smaller weight.

What are good treats?

Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Although they're not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein. Too much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.

Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more digestible), raisins, peanut butter, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks), freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers, Ferretone, Petromalt ... Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries.

Things to avoid

Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated. Goat's milk, available in some pet stores, is okay. Likewise, I've heard that soy milk is good for them and generally liked, but I haven't seen any verification.

Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause dental problems. (Despite the rumors, there is no evidence that sugar causes diabetes or other metabolic problems in mammals.)

Be careful with chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and may be dangerous to them. It's not recommended as a treat. (However, many people give their ferrets an occasional chocolate chip with no problems.) Likewise licorice -- the real thing, not the plastic, fruity, red stuff that goes by the same name -- is surprisingly strong. It's been used for medicinal purposes in the past; it might not be a good treat. Onions, garlic, and other members of that family can cause Heinz body anemia in dogs and cats; nobody's sure about ferrets, or what the dangerous dose might be (the tiny bit in some meat baby foods is probably fine), but caution is advised.

What kind of litter should I use?

Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter, due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners or dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it. The litter can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes problems. You may not want to take the chance.

Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons that they don't make good bedding.

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. Some people even use alfalfa pellets (rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally doesn't cover odor as well. If your pet is used to one and you switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new litter with where he's supposed to go. (Also see the information on litter training.)

Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding. Should I?

In short, no. Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not recommended. Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example, humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe. Why take the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary. Ferrets are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for sleeping. Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using towels.

Dr. Williams' article

Of course, it would be better if pet stores didn't use wood shavings either. Corn cob bedding is just as convenient for them and is dust-free and safe. If you need some authoritative information to convince your pet store to stop using wood shavings, here's an article by Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:
(The following short article may be reprinted by anyone desiring to disseminate this information in a newsletter or non-commercial publication. This material may not be altered or changed in any way. Under Title 17 of the U.S. Code, Section 105, copyright protection is not available for any work of the United States Government.)

WHY NOT CEDAR SHAVINGS?

For years, cedar shavings have been used as bedding for many species of small mammals including ferrets. Over the last ten years, increasing evidence is cropping up that this may not be a good choice.

Cedar shavings, as well as other aromatic soft woods, such as white and yellow pines, release volatile hydrocarbons which affect those animals living in them. Plicatic acid, a volatile hydrocarbon, results in asthma in humans and rabbits. Other hydrocarbons result in changes in the liver, which may impair its ability to detoxify certain drugs, including various anesthetic agents. Cedar shavings have also been incriminated in increased mortality in rat pups, and various scientists over the years have alluded to possible carcinogenicity. In chicken litter, cedar shavings harbored more bacteria than other types of litter.

On the more practical side, a 1986 article in Lab Animal evaluated many of the common bedding materials, also including hardwood chips, sawdust, paper chips, newspaper, ground corncob, rabbit pellets, straw, and hay (along with several others) for the following: absorbency, dust, endogenous effects on the animal, cost, use in nesting, and disposability. In all categories, cedar shavings was not recommended. Interestingly enough, paper products and heat-treated softwood chips scored highest overall.

In my experience, ferrets are happiest in old sweatshirt or towels, which rarely cause problems. Beware, however, the bored caged ferret, who may ingest parts of these items for lack of other stimulation, and obtain a gastrointestinal foreign body in the process.

References:

1. Weichbrod RH et al. Selecting bedding material. Lab Anim. Sept 1986, pp.25-29.
2. Kraft LM. The manufacture, shipping, receiving, and quality control of rodent bedding materials. Lab Animal Sci. 1980 pp. 366-372.
3. Weichbrod RH et. al. Effects of Cage Beddings on Microsomal Oxidative Enzymes in Rat Liver. Lab Animal Sci. 38(3): 296-298, 1988.
4. Hessler, JR. Design and Management of Animal Facilities. In Laboratory Animal Medicine, JG Fox, ed. Academic Press Inc, Orlando. 1984.
5. Chan H. et al. A rabbit model of hypersensitivity to plicatic acid, the agent responsible for red cedar asthma. J Allergy Clin Immunol 79(5) : 762-767.

How do I train my pet not to nip?

Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite, but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. A playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to discipline him. Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they just need to learn what behavior is acceptable. Sometimes a ferret which has been mistreated will bite out of fear, or an older ferret might bite because of pain, either in the mouth or elsewhere. In either of these cases, strict discipline isn't going to do any good. For an abused ferret, try one of the alternatives mentioned below, and have a lot of patience: the ferret has to learn to trust someone when all it has known before is abuse. For an animal in pain, of course, take it to the vet.

In all cases, positive reinforcement (giving treats) works much better than punishment. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to get what he wants. Finally, whichever method you use, consistency and immediacy are very important.

Alternatives to nose-flicking

Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty common form of discipline, but it might not be the best. Yor ferret might end up associating you with bad things rather than good ones. Also, it's a very bad idea to use nose-tapping or other physical discipline on a ferret who has been mistreated or who acts unusually aggressive or frightened. There are several alternatives, which you might want to try in combination:

I'm having problems litter-training. What do I do?

Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage, and expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained. Keep a little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though; some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Most ferrets won't mess up their beds or food, so put towels or food bowls in all the non-litter corners until your ferret is used to making the effort to find a pan.

Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up, so make sure yours uses the pan before you let him out. When he's out running around for playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it). Whenever your ferret uses a litterpan, whether you had to carry him to it or not, give him lots of praise and a little treat right away. Ferrets will do almost anything for treats, and they're fast learners. Within a few days, your ferret will probably be faking using the pan, just to get out of the cage or get a treat. That's okay; at least it reinforces the right idea.

Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time. Rubbing the ferret's nose in his mess won't do any good. He can't connect it to it being in the wrong place, and ferrets sniff their litter pans anyway. As with all training, consistency and immediacy are crucial. Don't bother caging a ferret for a mistake that's hours old.

If he picks the wrong corner

If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices. could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans around your home anyway. Otherwise, try putting a crumpled towel or a food bowl in the well-cleaned corner, making it look more like a bedroom or kitchen than a latrine.

"Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere.

Nobody's perfect

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up.

Finally, if your ferret seems to have completely forgotten all about litter pans, you might need to retrain him by confining him to a smaller area or even a cage for a week or so and gradually expanding his space as he catches on again.

How can I stop my ferret from digging in his food or water?

A lot of ferrets like to dig in their food or water bowls. If the bowls are in contained areas and the ferrets are willing to eat off the floor, the easiest solution is to provide a back-up water bottle and ignore the digging. You can also put the bowls in larger pans to contain the mess; use two pans, so the spilled food doesn't get soggy and spoil.

Heavy bowls that angle inward can help, or for more diligent water-bowl diggers, you can switch to a bottle. Likewise, some people find that a J-type rabbit feeder works well for food, though others find that just gives their ferrets a lot more food to joyfully spread around the room. Another nearly dig-proof design is to put the food in a covered plastic Tupperware-type container and cut a hole in the top just big enough for the ferret's head.

Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?

First of all, unless your ferret goes snorkeling in butterscotch pudding or has a bad case of fleas, you really don't need to bathe her very often at all. It doesn't affect the odor much; in fact, many ferrets smell worse for a few days following a bath. The best thing you can do to control your ferret's scent is to change her bedding every few days and keep the litter pans clean.

The problem with frequent bathing is that it can cause dry skin, especially in winter. There's nothing wrong with bathing your ferret only once a year. Once a month should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems with dry skin. Most ferrets don't seem to mind baths much. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.

Nail trimming

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended procedure like this:
Thus saith the Wise:
"When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a day. After the year and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving that its navel had Linatone, turned to lick. Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing. And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has tricked a ferret?"
If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her distracted.

Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent the tip from breaking later. Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing. Kwik-Stop or some other styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop the bleeding quickly, or you can hold a piece of tissue or paper towel over the nail and elevate the foot for a few minutes until it stops.

Cleaning ears

Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or an alcohol-based ear cleaner (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean them. Peroxide, water, and ointments are not recommended, because wet ears are much more prone to infections. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of.

There are also several excellent products made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out. They're just fine for ferrets, and your vet should be able to tell you about them.

The bath

[Photo of two ferrets swimming in a tub]
Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water. It should feel comfortable on your wrist. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. You can also take her into the shower with you; many ferrets who don't like baths are perfectly happy being held in a shower.

Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail. Our ferrets both start to struggle at this point, so we let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water.

Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil, which can also help get gooey things out of fur.

Drying off

Drying a wiggly, dripping ferret can be a lot of fun. Some people put a couple of towels and the ferrets together in a cardboard box or small, clean garbage can and let them dry themselves. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything except the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.

[Photo of a ferret dancing]
Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process too.

What games do ferrets like to play?

Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack each other through the throw rugs. They like to explore new things and places, sniff new smells, dig and roll in the dirt. Most of them love human interaction and will gladly include you in their play if you make the time for them. It may take you a little while to learn what each ferret's favorite games are, but soon you'll be one of their best playmates.
[Photo of a ferret carrying off a pen]
Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet.

[Photo of a ferret dancing]
If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance. If he dances around, chuckling and dooking and bouncing off the walls, he's having fun.

Here are a few more specific game suggestions, from the fertile imagination of "Mo' Bob" Church. Note that many of these games need you to supervise (or join in!), to make sure the ferrets don't get hurt or stuck or swallow anything they shouldn't.

Melissa Litwicki adds these suggestions: Other ideas, from various sources:

Can I teach my ferret tricks? How?

[Photo of a ferret rolling over] [Photo of a ferret sitting up]
Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around, roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk on a leash. To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when she falls into it, shout, "No!" The combination of the fall, the noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to staying on. Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn quickly.

The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you teach her. Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile.

Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of it, or simply to please you. Usually there must be some kind of reward expected, though that could be anything from a lick of Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching.

One very good trick to teach your ferret is to come when you make a particular noise (for instance, whistle loudly) or squeak a particular toy. Just make the noise each time you give the ferret a treat for a while, then make it when your ferret isn't nearby and give the treat as a reward when he comes to you. Ferrets often won't repond to their names, and it's enormously helpful to have a way to call your pet when he has escaped or is lost somewhere.

My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal?

Generally, yes. Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons. First, they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body temperatures. Second, they shake or quiver when excited or frightened. For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since everything is new and interesting. For older ferrets, a bath or even a good scolding could prompt trembling.

If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make sure there's no cold draft around. (Ferrets can live fine outdoors, with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside to need one.) If that's not the problem, check with a vet.

My ferret is losing hair!

Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring. The times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor lighting conditions. Fur will come out by the handful, all over the ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows in. If it's obviously not just normal shedding, see the information about bald tails and other kinds of hair loss, some of which can be very serious.

Is he really just asleep?

[Photo of a sleeping ferret]
In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults. A two- to four- hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical. Ferrets sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up. You can take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're asleep. It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and sit, though.

What does such-and-such a noise mean?

Nothing
Most ferrets don't make much noise. This doesn't mean they're unhappy, it just means, well, they're quiet.
Clucking, "dooking," or chuckling
Indicates happiness or excitement. Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area.
Whimpering/whining
Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise. It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match.
Hissing
Frustration or anger. Ferrets often hiss while they're fighting [150 kB sound], even if it's just in play.
Screeching/loud chittering
Extreme fright or pain. This is your cue that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also be a sign of anger.

What else should I probably not worry about?

Scratching
Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters. If you don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about it. If you see little white flakes, it may be dry skin.

[Photo of a ferret dancing]

Dancing
A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with an arched back. Clucking is common too. Dancing or just careening into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to just bounce off of such obstacles. Unless they actually injure themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun.

Occasional sneezes
If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too. Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on something.

"Reverse sneezes"
These sound almost like asthma, about the same duration as a sneeze, and often occur several in a row, maybe after the poked her nose somewhere dusty. They don't look or sound like a cough. You might see the ferret's ribcage or body move once or twice a second with the force of the inhalation.

Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear
This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath. It helps spread the ferret's scent around.

Licking urine
It's not uncommon for a ferret to take a few laps of urine, its own or another ferret's. Nobody's really sure why they do it, but it won't hurt them.

Hiccups
Hiccups are not uncommon, especially in young kits, who sometimes seem alarmed by them. A comforting scritch, a drink of water, or a small treat can help.

Tail-wagging
For some reason, many ferrets wag their tails quickly when they have their front ends in a tube or under a rug and they see something interesting (a toy, a sock, another ferret) at the other end. It's a normal sign of excitement.

Tail puffing
A ferret's tail will bottle-brush when he's excited or upset. He's not necessarily frightened. He'd have to be really worked up for the hair on the rest of his body to stand up, though.

Ear suckling
Often ferrets will suck on each others' ears, and sometimes even cats' or dogs' ears, especially when they're sleeping. It's probably a lot like thumb-sucking in humans, and nothing to worry about as long as the one doing the sucking is eating well and the other one's ears aren't getting sore.

Licking soap
For some reason, many ferrets love to eat soap, stealing it from the bathroom or even licking the tub. A little bit of soap won't hurt your ferret, though it may give her diarrhea. Don't give it to her as a treat, of course, and try to keep it out of her reach, but it's nothing to panic about unless she manages to eat a lot.

Summer weight loss, in males
Normally, weight loss is something to be concerned about, but many males lose a fair bit of weight, even as much as 40% of their bulk, in the summer and gain it back in the fall. It's mainly preparation for breeding, but it's common in neutered males, too. If your ferret seems otherwise healthy and happy, don't worry.

Do ferrets travel well?

In general, yes.
[Photo of a duffel bag modified for carrying ferrets]
Around town
Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them with you wherever they're welcome. Be careful not to let them get too hot or cold, though.
[Photo of a collapsible ferret cage]
Automobile travel
Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road. You can use a water bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills.
Airplane travel
Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge. (America West, Air Canada, and Delta do, and I once got a special exception from Continental after talking with their customer service folks for a while. Any others?) Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this way. Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with that. Tranquilizing the ferret isn't recommended -- it'll disorient him, and ferrets sleep a lot anyway.
Hotels
Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to call ahead and make sure. Also leave a note to reassure the maids.

Canada/U.S. border crossings
Officially, you need a special import permit to bring a ferret from the U.S. into Canada, whether it's a Canadian or U.S. ferret. The permit costs CND$25 and can take a while to get; exact requirements may vary depending on whether you're a Canadian or U.S. resident. Contact the nearest Ministry of Agriculture Canada office for information and an application. Even with the permit, the Customs officials have the right to quarantine your pet if they feel it's necessary, though I've never heard of that happening.

As of 1995, there was a proposal to change the regulation and classify ferrets like dogs and cats, but I haven't yet heard of its having passed. However, especially at smaller crossing stations, the guard you encounter may not know that any permit is needed.

Bringing ferrets from Canada into the U.S. is much easier. All I've ever needed was a rabies certificate. Proof that the ferrets came from the U.S. in the first place might also be helpful (a NY state license, in my case; if you don't have one, register your pets with U.S. Customs before you enter Canada). I don't know much about Canadian residents bringing ferrets into the U.S., but I wouldn't expect it to be any different.

Legal issues
You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have had, just in case.

Help! My ferret is lost!

[This section was written by Bev Fox, with additions by Carla Smith, and has been edited slightly.]

Preparation

The most important things to do only work if you do them before one of your ferrets makes a break for the big outdoors.

Teach your ferrets to come to a sound (a word, squeeky toy, whistle, etc.) and reward them with their favorite treat when they do. Deaf ferrets can be trained to come by using a flashlight and blinking it off and on rapidly for a strobing effect. (Hearing ones too, for that matter.) Introduce your ferret to your neighbors so they will be familiar with what a ferret is and what it looks like. Put a collar or harness with a bell and name tag on your ferret whenever it is out of the cage. This way if somebody sees it they will know that it is a pet and not a wild animal.

Missing ferret

Check through your house carefully, including places where your ferret "couldn't possibly go." Look inside drawers, under dressers, in hampers, under and inside refrigerators, etc. Check your backyard, bushes and garage. Most ferrets when exploring a new area will cling to the side of a building or structure before venturing out into an open area. Put food and water out, preferably in a familiar cage or carrier with a blanket or shirt that has your scent on it. Place food on the front and back porch. You may also want to sprinkle the area with flour to make it easier to identify tracks left by any animal coming up to eat and drink.

Use your word processor or graphics program and design a missing ferret poster now before you need it and have it on file so specific information can be added and copies can be printed up in a short period of time. The poster should include your phone number, the ferret's name and picture, a description of any collor or harness he was wearing, date missing, last known location, and mention of a reward. (Never place how much money offered on the poster as some people may not think the amount offered is worth their effort.) Some people suggest that you say that the ferret is ill and needs medication (even if it's healthy). (This little white lie might make someone who finds your ferret and is thinking of keeping it for themselves have second thoughts and call you to come get it.)

Call your local police, animal control authorities, ferret club, ferret shelter, pet stores, veternarians and radio stations. Get the word out. Canvass your neighborhood door to door and let your neighbors know to watch for a missing ferret in the area, perhaps in their garages or dryer vents. If you have another ferret, take it along to show them what one looks like. Ask your neighbors, especially children, if they will help you look around. Hand volunteers a noise maker that you use to call your ferret or tell them your call sign. Also hand out treats so if the ferret is spotted by someone they can keep it in sight until it can be retrieved. Alert your mailman, newspaper boy, and anyone else who passes through your area often. Post signs everywhere and place ads in your local newspapers. Don't limit it to your immediate neighborhood. Ferrets have been found many miles from home after crossing major highways and busy streets.

If you own more than one ferret, take one with you. It can show you small openings that you may otherwise overlook and may also draw the missing ferret out into the open to see its friend.

Remember, look low. Ferrets love dark places so check under porches, shrubs, dumpsters and cars. Ferrets also like small places so check behind trashcans and any little nook and cranny you find. Look for the telltale " a ferret has been here" signs. (Leaves, dirt and grass that have been dug at and little piles of poop that we all know so well).

Don't give up hope. Missing ferrets have been found days, weeks and occasionally even months after their great escape.

Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing?

Spaying or neutering: yes

Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in season may kill other ferrets, even females). Spaying saves a female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred or she will almost certainly die of anemia. However, many people disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months old. It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into heat, but apart from that there's no rush.

Breeding ferrets is difficult and time-consuming. Before even thinking about breeding, you should have owned ferrets for some years, be a member of a ferret organization, and find out as much about it as you can. The actual mating is rather violent, and jills tend to have problems giving birth, producing milk, and so forth. If you're serious about breeding, talk to someone who has first. You'll need to have more than one whole male available (in case your female goes into heat when your male isn't) and more than one breeding female available (in case you need a foster mom because your jill has milk problems) -- and be prepared to lose some or all of the kits and perhaps the mom too. Grim, but true. To learn more about breeding or where to find a good breeder, get a sample copy of the Breeder's Digest by sending $2.75 to P.O. Box 2371, Leesburg, VA 22075.

Descenting: maybe

There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or useful, and some belief that it's harmful. It's bad for a ferret's health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be somewhat harmful when done at any age. Many people feel that the procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented. Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as effectively as a skunk, it doesn't smell as bad, and it dissipates in just a few seconds. How often a ferret sprays and how bad it smells depend on the individual ferret, and different people have different tolerances for the scent, so if given the option you may want to wait and see if you think descenting is necessary in your particular case.

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits. Many breeders sell kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Declawing: no

Ferrets have nails like dogs, not cats. They shouldn't be declawed.

What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

Canine distemper

Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine
Kits should get three shots, four weeks apart, with the last one no earlier than 14 weeks; for example, shots at 8, 12, and 16 weeks. (Some vets recommend four shots, three weeks apart, instead. Two is not enough.) Then a yearly booster shot. Although rabies gets more press, the canine distemper vaccine is much more important for your ferret's health.

Adults who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks apart, then yearly boosters. If you know they've been vaccinated within the last year, then one shot is enough.

If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third choice. If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become sick from the vaccine. At least be sure that it's a vaccine for canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT cultured in ferret tissue. Chick embryo culture is best.

Rabies

Imrab-3 rabies vaccine
One vaccination at 14-16 weeks, separated from the distemper vaccines by 2-3 weeks, then boosters yearly. This is the same rabies vaccine that's used for dogs and cats, so your vet should have it around. It's good for three years in cats, but only one year in ferrets, mainly because the company hasn't done tests to see how long it lasts in ferrets. This is the only rabies vaccine approved for ferrets.

Comments

Ferrets do not need to be vaccinated for feline distemper or parvo. They don't need a 5-way dog vaccine.

They can contract Bordatella (a common cause of kennel cough in dogs), but it's very rare, and the effectiveness of the vaccine is unknown in ferrets. Don't vaccinate for it unless you'll be boarding your ferrets at a kennel, and possibly not even then. The intranasal Bordatella vaccine has been known to give ferrets the disease.

It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems to increase the chances of an adverse reaction (see below).

If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a month since the last one.

Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets, because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are yet to be done. This means that even if your ferret is vaccinated, it may be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten. However, having the vaccination may keep the person from reporting a bite in the first place, and of course it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies. (Even closely watched ferrets do occasionally escape.)

Vaccine reactions

Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a particular vaccine. Reactions are rare, and giving the rabies and distemper vaccinations two weeks apart is thought to reduce the chance, but they can be life-threatening.

There are several kinds of vaccine reactions. The most dangerous, anaphylactic reactions, usually occur within an hour after the vaccination. You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60 minutes after a vaccination, just in case. Watch for vomiting, diarrhea or loss of bladder/bowel control; signs of nausea or dizziness; dark bluish-purple blotches spreading under the skin; difficulty breathing; pale or bright pink gums, ears, feet or nose; seizures, convulsions, or passing out; or anything else that's alarming -- bad reactions are hard to miss. Get the ferret back to the vet right away, probably for a shot of antihistamine (Benedryl) and perhaps a corticosteroid or epinephrine. Ferrets who have had mild to moderate anaphylactic reactions to a particular vaccine can be pre-treated with an antihistamine the next time, or you might consider switching to a different vaccine (from Fervac to Galaxy or the other way, for instance). If your ferret had a severe reaction, you and your vet can discuss the relative dangers of leaving that ferret unvaccinated.

Most delayed reactions aren't dangerous. You might notice the ferret acting tired, showing flu-like symptoms, or possibly even vomiting a little within a day or two after the vaccination. As long as the symptoms don't last longer than a day and don't seem too extreme, there's no need to worry. If the ferret has trouble breathing, is more than a little lethargic, or shows other worrisome symptoms, call or visit your vet. Antihistamines don't help much with delayed reactions, but your vet might suggest pre-treating the ferret next time anyway, in case it helps.

Jeff Johnston, an epidemiologist (though not specifically for ferrets), comments:

One thing that isn't proven but is worth a try is to give your ferret the contents of a small-dose vitamin E capsule (say, 100 IU) a few days before the injection. Vitamin E in large doses suppresses inflammatory responses (also suppresses vitamin K and clotting, so, warn your vet if blood is taken for any reason). It may help blunt any reaction. Vitamin E is also fairly non-toxic, too, so 100 IU once every few months shouldn't hurt. [Don't use more than that, though; anything can be toxic in large enough doses.]

Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?

It's not recommended. Giving an intramuscular injection to a squirming or nippy animal is not easy. Even experienced veterinarians with good technicians sometimes get bitten. Also, an injection in the wrong place can injure the sciatic nerve and permanently paralyze the ferret's leg; and in case of a bad reaction to the vaccine, a vet has the experience and equipment on hand which may be needed to save the ferret's life.

In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for a rabies certificate to be legal. The annual trip to the vet (or semi-annual, for older ferrets) is also the best time to have your ferrets checked for other health problems.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick animals don't. The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up. Or the ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans.
However, if you have a lot of ferrets to be vaccinated, you may be able to save yourself some money by purchasing the vaccines themselves directly from the manufacturer and taking them to your vet to be used. You save on the materials, but you still get your vet's expertise. Check with your vet to see if he or she will work with you like this.

What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:
I know that some practicing vets consider a 3-year animal to be "geriatric" and to require a CBC [complete blood cell count] and a fasting blood glucose yearly, but as one who stands to make no money on this deal anyway, I don't recommend it until age 5. Three years is just too young to consider a ferret geriatric.

Now, remember, all ferrets are different. If you have one that is sort of "puny", never eats well, sluggish, etc. a yearly CBC and glucose is a good idea every year. But if your three or 4 year olds are healthy, well, then it's just not required. I start mine at 5 years.

Considering dental work - have your vet check the teeth and then recommend who needs it. Not every ferret will need to have it done, and if your 4 year olds have been on hard food all of their lives, chances are good that they may not need any work yet.

Remember - a healthy 3- or 4-year old doesn't necessarily require any annual bloodwork, but a sickly 2 year old should get it on at least an annual basis.

What should I look for when I check over my ferret myself?

It's a good idea to give your ferrets a general check-over from time to time. This should not substitute for the annual vet visit, but you might notice something before it gets bad. Anytime you notice anything unusual, take the ferret to the vet.

Start by checking your ferret's ears, which should look clean and pink. If you see wax, clean them. If the wax is black or has dark flecks, the ferret might have ear mites. Check the cartilage for swelling or distortion. Check the ferret's eyes, which should look clear and alert, with no films or discharge. (Ferrets do have a "second eyelid" which might appear as a bluish-white rim around the edge of the eye.) Feel carefully all around the neck, throat and chin area, looking for lumps or swelling. Check the gums, which should be pink and healthy-looking, and the teeth, looking for excessive tartar or discoloration. Whiskers should be long and strong, not brittle or broken.

Now hold the ferret under the front legs, with the back legs on your lap or a table. Run your hands lightly along the ferret's body, checking for lumps. You can also check muscle tone and weight this way: you should be able to feel ribs, but not see them, and the ferret should feel firm and supple, not loose, flabby or skinny. Pull gently on the ferret's legs to check for lumps or swelling on the legs, knees, or feet; the ferret should pull the legs back in. The pads should be pink and soft, with maybe a bit of callus, not irritated or cracking.

Your ferret's behavior is also a good indicator of its general health. Sleeping a lot is normal, and older ferrets will slow down a bit, but they should always be curious, alert, and playful. Any change in normal habits might be a sign of a problem.

Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?

A lot of the discussion about ferrets on rec.pets and the Ferret Mailing List (FML) deals with health problems, and it's easy to get the impression that ferrets are constantly ill. In fact, they're pretty hardy animals.

As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, puts it:

Ferrets are no more prone to disease than other animals. However, they do have a much shorter lifespan, so these problems come up an a more frequent basis. Plus, most of us own anywhere between two and fifteen animals, and many own more than this, or run shelters. When you are dealing with such large numbers of animals, you will have proportionately more health problems.

Also, the FML also has several vets that give health advice. We are well known as a place where you can get a prompt response to a question about the health of your animal, and several of us also are involved with the health care of many of the animals which you read about.

Another thing to consider is that many of the FMLers live in areas where vets are not very familiar with ferrets and their diseases, so the FML is a good place to get a second opinion or advice for their vets. I field anywhere from 3-8 phone calls daily on ferret matters from veterinarians around the country.

Any type of animal that you may obtain as a pet will have predisposition to disease. Ferrets should be expected to get diseases of their own, too. But as most people on the FML will tell you, the benefits are far more than the risks.

How do I contact Dr. Williams? I hear he'll help with diagnoses.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, is a ferret expert who works in the Department of Veterinary Pathology at the Armed Forces Institute of Pathology. The AFIP is keenly interested in the diseases of ferrets. Because of this, Dr. Williams is available to provide a second opinion about any diagnosis. He says:
I encourage owners who have questions to USE [my phone number]. Have your vets USE IT. If I minded people sending me email [at <accupath@tomco.net>] or calling me on the phone (remember, it's Mon.-Fri.), I wouldn't post it. Because of my workload, I concentrate now only on medical questions. But if you have a question, and your vet can't seem to answer, feel free to give me a call. 
        Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, DACVP
        Armed Forces Institute of Pathology
        (202) 782-2600/2602 
	fax (202) 782-9150
Dr. Williams also operates a pathology lab, AccuPath, on his own time. Tissues of all kinds can be sent there for low-cost, expert examination with a short turnaround time. Contact him at <AccuPath@tomco.net> (new address as of 12 Sept 1996) or (301) 299-8041 for more information.

What warning signs of disease should I look for?

An outline of noninfectious, parasitic, infectious, and cancerous health problems in the pet ferret is also available, as are brief explanations of some of the more common ones.

NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned ferrets very long. (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc.
Symptomatic of a number of problems.

Lack of bowel movement
If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal blockage. Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to the vet immediately. Note that a ferret can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a lack of food intake for some other reason. Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day. Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a little loose. Also look for string-like stools. Ferrets with intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin- like a pencil lead. But adequate ferret-proofing is much more important than stool-watching.

Swollen or painful abdomen
Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals. Pain could be from any of several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser. Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though.

Change in "bathroom" habits
Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems. Stress, perhaps from a change in environment, can also cause this.

Lumps on the body or feet
These may be cysts or infections, or they might be associated with a tumor, usually benign but sometimes malignant. They can also be a sign of dietary problems or a vaccine reaction. Have any swelling or lump checked out and probably removed by your vet, and have anything that's removed sent to a pathologist. For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Skin Tumors.

Difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement
Most often a sign of an adrenal or islet cell tumor (insulinoma), or arthritis, in older ferrets. Could also be an injured back, the result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like. Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured.

Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness:

This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord or those innervating the legs. In most of these cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness.

Overheating
Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all. They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in summer. Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also a bit risky. Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening to ferrets without shade and cool water.

Loose skin and dull eyes
Generally caused by dehydration, which is quite serious in such a small animal. Get your ferret to drink more, take him to a vet for subcutaneous fluids, and look for the underlying cause.

Unexplained hair loss
Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected.

Seizures
It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem. Most often the result of insulinomas in the pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too.

Diarrhea
This can be serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated. Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate well, or by a number of diseases. A green or orange color or a bit of mucous just means the food didn't spend the usual amount of time in the digestive system, not that it's necessarily ECE (Epizootic Catarrhal Enteritis, or the "Green Diarrhea Virus"), but for more information on that, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on ECE .

Vomiting
Ferrets do sometimes vomit from excitement, stress, a change of diet, or overeating, but if it's repetitive or if there are any signs of blood, get to a vet. During shedding season ferrets may "spit up" a bit due to hair in the throat. This can be helped with Petromalt.

Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy
Yes, ferrets catch human flu. They'll generally rest and drink a lot. A visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the flu looks bad or lasts more than a few days. According to Dr. Susan Brown, "The antihistamine product Chlor-Trimeton may be used at 1/4 tablet 2 times daily for sneezing that may interfere with sleeping or eating."

Broken tooth
If only the tip is broken, the tooth may discolor slightly, but it's nothing to worry about. A more extensive break will cause pain, a definite unhealthy look to the tooth, and possibly gum problems, and should be treated (probably root canal or removal) by a vet or a veterinary dentist.

Persistent hacking or coughing
An occasional cough might be caused by dust or swallowed fur, and can be treated with a bit of cat hairball preventative. A persistent cough is most likely a respiratory infection, probably viral. A fever, yellow or green discharge from the eyes or nose, or congestion indicate a bacterial infection. In either case, see a vet. Another possibility is cardiomyopathy.

Swollen vulva
In an unspayed female, she's probably going into heat, especially if it's springtime. For young spayed ferrets, under 18 months or so, the most common problem is pieces of the ovary that were missed in the spaying and have begun to produce hormones. These pieces might be scattered around the abdomen. For older ferrets, however, by far the most common cause of a swollen vulva is adrenal disease, usually cancer.

Return to whole male behavior (in a neutered male)
The most common reason for a neutered male to try to mate, dribble urine or mark his areas, become aggressive, or have erections is unusual hormone production caused by adrenal disease. Other possibilities include cryptorchidism (a testicle which never descended into the scrotum and so wasn't removed) or bladder stones. The treatment for any of these is surgery.

My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days. What's wrong?

Maybe nothing. If there are no stools at all, though, he may have an intestinal blockage.

According to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

Ferrets occasionally have dietary "indiscretions" and may get hold of something that is not particularly to the GI tract's liking. They may get loose or discolored stools, and if no groceries are going in for a day or so, their stools will lose volume and may become somewhat thin. As long as they are playing and acting okay, they can usually tolerate this for 48-72 hours. If it goes on any longer than this, or their play/sleep cycles become affected, then it's off to the vet for a check. Most problems resolve within 72 hours on their own. If it doesn't, then there may be a problem. (However watch for dark tarry stools - they are more than just discolored and indicate GI bleeding. If you ever see these - go see your vet. Likewise for profuse green diarrhea.) A one- to two-week course of Laxatone is also a good idea following changes in stools. If there is some foreign matter in the intestine, it will help it move along, and, at any rate, it won't hurt.

I caution everyone - don't throw out those abnormal stools without going through them (pick them apart in a bowl of water) and seeing if there is any foreign material in them. It may sound "gross", but it can tell you if your ferret is eating something it shouldn't.

Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, adds that GI parasites such as giardia and coccidia can sometimes be the cause, though it's not common; and even lymphosarcoma may cause funny-looking stools. Both of those will generally present other symptoms, too, though. One thing you can try for mild cases, especially after consulting your veterinarian, is Pepto Bismol. Most ferrets don't like the taste of the liquid, but you can give them 1/15th of a tablet crushed up in food instead.

My ferret is going bald (tail only or all over).

[Photo of a ferret in the late stages of adrenal disease, side view] [12k] [Photo of the same ferret being held] [10k]
Hair loss on just the tail is generally nothing to worry about. It can be caused by stress, such as a change of environment or the arrival of a new animal in the household. Even the normal seasonal coat change can be enough stress to make your ferret's tail go completely bald, and sometimes it will take several months for the fur to grow back. Often this seasonal "rat tail" shows up with tiny black spots [#tail_spots].

If your ferret is losing hair other places, there's something wrong. Apart from shedding, by far the most common cause of hair loss in ferrets of any age is adrenal-associated endocrinopathy, a serious, but treatable, disease of the adrenal glands. Even if the hair comes back at the next coat change, it's probably still an adrenal problem. There's a separate Ferret Medical FAQ for adrenal disease, which you should take a look at if you even think your ferret might have this problem.

Other possibilities include poor nutrition, fleas, a severe mite infestation, dry skin, or allergies to food, detergents, or cleaning products.

What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty) spots on my ferret's tail/skin?

Reddish-brown wax or black spots on the tail

Ferrets sometimes get tiny black spots on their tails, often accompanied by a reddish-brown waxy deposit and hair loss. They look a lot like blackheads, and in fact that's probably pretty much what they are. Gentle cleaning, perhaps with a medicated cleanser (a dilute benzoyl peroxide shampoo) that your vet can recommend, should help, though it may take many weeks. Often this is a seasonal problem that clears up on its own in a few months.

Orange-speckled, crusty patches

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:
An orange, flaky discoloration of the skin is a very non-specific finding in the ferret. The crustiness of the skin means that the skin is not coming off in small microscopic flakes (1 to several cells at a time) like normally happens. When you see a crust - it means that the normal way that a ferret sheds devitalized epidermis [dead skin] has been impaired.

As far as the cause - there is not just one cause. Many things can cause this change - skin parasites, fleas, ear mites, bacterial infections of hair follicles, fungus, endocrine disease, even distemper.

Minor skin disorders such as these are more common with age. They may be exacerbated by poor husbandry, or excessive bathing (more than once per week to ten days.)

Most cases are due to a very superficial bacterial infection which will respond well to a weekly application of a gentle bactericidal shampoo. Other tests that can be done at the time of diagnosis by your vet would include a skin scraping and fungal culture. Should all tests turn up negative, and a four-week course of topical therapy not help, then the next step would be biopsy and submission to a pathology lab for microscopic examination.

Allergies are another possibility; and the area around bites, whether caused by fleas or another animal, may take on a pink or orangish color from dried blood.

How well do ferrets handle heat? What about cold?

Heat

Ferrets don't tolerate heat well at all. Even temperatures in the 80s (say, above 27C or so) can cause problems, and older ferrets can be even more sensitive. The first thing to do, of course, is to prevent heat exposure in the first place, by providing shade and plenty of cool water. If you live in a hot climate, you must realize that your ferret will need special care in mid-summer. Never leave a ferret or any pet in a car in hot weather, even with the windows partly open. It just doesn't do enough good.

There are a couple of ways to keep your ferrets cooler if you don't have air conditioning. Fans are an obvious idea, but unless you can blow in some cooler air, they don't do very much good for ferrets, who can't sweat. A plastic bottle of ice wrapped in a towel is helpful. Finally, you can drape a damp towel over your ferrets' cage, set a bucket of water on top, and drape another wet rag over the side of the bucket so one end is at the bottom of the bucket and the other is on the cage towel. The rag acts as a wick to keep the towel wet, and the cage stays cooler from evaporation.

Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose touch with their surroundings. The first thing to do is to get the ferret out of the hot place and start cooling him down slowly. Cool water is best, but not too cold, since the ferret's body temperature will drop way too far, with him unable to stop it. Anything you can get him to drink is good, but never force liquids into an unconscious animal.

After these emergency measures, get your pet to the vet immediately. Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die within 48 hours due to the massive shock they've undergone. Things to watch for include tarry stools and vomiting.

Cold

On the other hand, ferrets handle cold pretty well. If they have full winter coats, they'll be perfectly happy living in a chilly room, say 60 F (15 C). They can easily handle going outdoors in cold weather, and many of them love to play in the snow. Use common sense, though. Don't take your ferrets out in really frigid (much below freezing) or wet weather, and bring them inside if they shiver too much, paw at the door, or try to climb up into your coat.

How can I get rid of these fleas?

Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or their eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets. You can also get it by FTP or by sending email to <mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu> with the line 

SEND usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks
in the body of the message (with an empty subject line).

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum distillates. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer. Follow the directions on the bottle carefully. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

You can use a premise spray around the cage, but often, the house requires bombing, too. Get a bomb from your vet which contains methoprene (a flea growth regulator). This will allow you to complete the job in just two applications - one to kill the adults and larva, the second two weeks later to get the ones that have hatched out since the first spray. (Make sure of course to remove your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing...) Fleas can be a real nuisance - before you bomb, make sure to wash all of their bedding and vacuum carefully so you only have to do it twice....

Most insect foggers don't have a strong enough residual effect to hurt your ferrets. We routinely bomb our house for fleas and two hours later, the ferrets and dogs are romping through the house. (But I know that Siphotrol has a weak residual.)

Signs of trouble - lack of appetitie, rumbling stomachs, diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, dilated pupils, stumbling. You probably won't see them, but it's nice to know what to look for...

Long-term flea treatments

None of the three common long-term flea treatments -- Program, Advantage, and Frontline -- have been tested on ferrets, so use them at your own risk. However, many people have been using them in ferrets successfully for some time.

Program is used at the cat dosage per pound, administered monthly. The medicine circulates in the blood and prevents fleas which have bitten the ferret from laying viable eggs. Therefore, every pet in the house should be on Program to completely break the cycle; and you may need to use this in combination with another product temporarily, to kill most of the adults. The pills can be crushed and mixed with a treat or food, or the suspension can be put directly on the food. Be sure that the right ferret gets the whole dose. It should be taken with a meal; in fact, the more food it's taken with, the more effective it will be. Have your vet call Ciba-Geigy at 800-637-0281 with questions.

Advantage comes in a tube. It's applied once a month to the shoulder blades, where the ferret can't easily lick it off (but other pets could). Ferret owners report that it works very well. It's water soluble, so you shouldn't bathe your pet except right before another application, and the ferret must be completely dry before the next dose. The idea is to kill the fleas before they can lay their eggs, and hopefully before they bite.

Frontline is also applied externally, and is also said to work very well. It's alcohol-based and smells a bit until it dries, but it's also water resistant. This means it may last longer than Advantage, but if your ferret should happen to have a reaction to it (which I've never heard of), getting it off could be more difficult.

How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites? What do I do about them?

Check when you clean your ferret's ears, perhaps once a month. Reddish-brown ear wax is normal, but if you see any thick, black discharge then you probably have mites. It's also a good idea to have your vet check the ears whenever you visit. You can't catch ear mites from your pet, but your cats, dogs, and other ferrets certainly can.

Dr. Williams, DVM says:

Ferrets very commonly get ear mites, so you don't need to get upset. Check with your vet and get two products: a ceruminolytic (such as "Oti-Clens"), which will dissolve the wax that the mites live in. This is far preferable to trying to dig the wax out with Q-tips. Then get a good ear miticide from your vet (I use Tresaderm). Put a little of the ear cleaner (which dissolves the wax) in the ear and massage. Let it sit for about a minute. Your ferret will probably shakes its head, sending wax all over you and the floor. Use a Q-tip and gently collect the rest of the wax from the ear canal. You won't hit the ear drum, as the ferrets ear canal is roughly L-shaped - you will just be cleaning the vertical part of the canal. After you have cleaned the wax, put the ear drops [miticide] in. Make sure that the fluids that you are using are body temperature - put them in your shirt or pocket for a few minutes before using. No one likes cold water in their ears!!!!

Clean every day for a week to 10 days, stop for a week, and go again for another week to take care of mites. If your problem is just dirty ears (some ferrets have a lot of wax) - just use the ear wax remover once a week.

Ivermectin can be used in bad cases, either orally, injected, or directly in the ear. Today I ran across an article (Bell, JA. Parasites of Domesticated Pet Ferrets, Comp. Clin. Educ. Pract. Vet. 16(5): 617-620), which gives a dosage for topical administration of ivermectin:

Injectable ivermectin is mixed with propylene glycol at a ration of approximately 1:20 - then 0.2 to 0.3 ml (4-6 drops) into each ear canal daily. Ferrets on ivermectin for heartworm prevention should not have problems with ear mites.

Dr. Susan Brown, DVM says:
Do not depend on the oil [used for cleaning] to completely rid your pet of mites either although it will help to suffocate them. Mites are easily taken care of by using Ivermectin directly in the ears at 0.5mg/kg divided into two doses to be used in each ear and then repeated in two weeks. You need to have a positive diagnosis of mites made by your vet and get the medication from him or her.

Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, reports:
I took a few minutes to call a veterinarian, Dr. Debra Kemmerer in Gainesville FL, who has been working with heartworm disease in ferrets, and I thought that I would pass on what she has told me.

She recommends all ferrets in heartworm endemic areas (ask your vet if your local is heartworm-endemic - generally southern areas have higher rates of heartworms due to increased numbers of mosquitoes).

She is currently using ivermectin in the ferret at the dose of 10 micrograms/lb. She mixes her own liquid formula at 100 mcg/ml, and gives each ferret 1/10th of a ml per pound of body weight.

The reason she mixes her own is that in the tablet form that most heartworm prevention is available for in dogs, the drug is not spread evenly throughout the tablet, so that if you are breaking the tablet and giving your ferrets a piece of the tablet, you may be giving them too little, or worse, too much.

For your vets, prior to using prevention, the ferrets (like dogs) can be tested with antigen kits (not a direct smear, as many infections are "occult" in ferrets, and do not shed the baby worms in the blood, as they do in the dog.) Dr. Kemmerer says that the best (and only) effective test out their is Rhone-Merieux's "Vet-Red Heartworm Detection Kit". All others are either not effective in diagnosing the disease, or need extensive modification.

She has been formulating her own preventative in liquid, easy-dosing form for 7 years now, and has NOT seen any side effects. She does caution, however, that it must be dispensed in an amber bottle, so it doesn't degrade in sunlight.

She also advocates that prevention is the way to go here - she expects to lose 50% of the animals treated for heartworm disease.

I hope that everyone will apprise their vets of these comments. For more information about heartworm disease in ferrets, or how to prescribe ivermectin in the ferret, you may contact Dr. Debra Kemmerer at West End Animal Veterinary Hospital, Gainesville, FL at 904-332-4357.

If your pets are on heartworm preventative, you should probably keep giving it to them all year. That removes the possibility that a worm might sneak in before you start it up again, so your pet will be safer, and won't have to have another heartworm test every spring. in the Ferret Medical FAQ on Gastric Ulcers / Helicobacter mustelae.
Helicobacter mustelae infection
Infection of the stomach lining by a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets. Animals with long-standing infections (generally older animals), may develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid production in the stomach. Signs of a problem include repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above). Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research in this area. Also see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Gastric Ulcers / Helicobacter mustelae.
Cutaneous vaccine reactions
Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump at the site of vaccination. The lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck. The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your pet. Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats.

Noninfectious

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

  1. GI Foreign Bodies

  2. Aplastic Anemia

  3. Anal Gland Impaction

  4. Cataracts

  5. Cardiomyopathy

    There is a separate FAQ devoted to cardiomyopathy.

  6. Urolithiasis (Bladder Stones)

Parasitic health problems

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

  1. Ear Mites

  2. Fleas

Infectious diseases

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

  1. Influenza virus

  2. Canine Distemper

Neoplasia (Cancer)

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

  1. Lymphosarcoma

  2. Insulinoma

  3. Adrenal Adenoma or Adenocarcinoma

  4. Skin tumors

What are normal body temperature, blood test results, etc.?

Temperature             101-103 F (38.3 - 39.4 C), 104 F (40 C) is borderline 

Heart rate              216-400/min

Respiration             33-36/min

There are, of course, dozens of components in your ferret's blood which can help your vet determine what's wrong. Here are some of the ones people ask about most often, and normal ranges. If you want to know more about what your ferret's tests mean, don't hesitate to ask your vet.

The following information is extracted from an article in The FAIR [Ferret Adoption, Information & Rescue Society] Report, Vol. II, No. 2, by Mary Van Dahm.

Blood glucose
Glucose is a sugar, the main energy source for the body. Its level varies through the day, higher just after a meal, lower when the ferret is hungry, but the body keeps it fairly constant mainly by controlling the amount of insulin in the blood. Testing the blood glucose after withholding food from the ferret for 6 hours (fasting blood glucose) eliminates the variation and gives you a more definite number to judge it by. A low reading (hypoglycemia) may be a sign of insulinoma. A high reading (hyperglycemia) is rare, but might be a sign of diabetes. A non-fasted blood glucose test might give values up to 207 mg/dl, depending on when the ferret last ate.
Pack cell volume/hematocrit (PCV/HCT)
This is the percentage of red blood cells in the blood. Low readings indicate anemia; high readings are usually a sign of dehydration.
Red blood cells (RBC)
Red blood cells carry oxygen to the body's tissues and carbon dioxide back to the lungs. Low readings show anemia.
White blood cells (WBC)
Part of the immune system. Readings over about 7000 may mean the ferret is fighting off an infection, cold or flu. Readings over 10,000 may be early signs of lymphoma Ferret Lymphosarcoma%t% or another cancer. Unusually low readings indicate anemia and a bone marrow problem.
Lymphocytes
Another type of white blood cell. High readings can indicate a "smouldering" infection, possibly Helicobacter mustelae. Many, but not all, cases of lymphosarcoma also show elevated lymohycyte levels.
Eosinophils
Another type of white blood cell. Often an indicator of intestinal disorders, infection, or cancer. Other parts of the blood profile must also be considered for a diagnosis.
Protein, Albumin and Globulin
Albumin is a kind of protein, and globulin is a general term for all proteins that aren't albumin, so protein - albumin = globulin. The numbers indicate the ferret's general health and nutrition, and albumin also helps show how well the liver and kidneys are working.
BUN and Creatinine
The job of the kidneys is to filter out impurities, so if they aren't working well, these levels will be high.
Alkaline phosphatese
This is an enzyme found in the liver and bone. When bones are growing or the liver is damaged, lots of this is released into the blood.
Total bilirubin
A by-product of the normal breakdown of hemoglobin in red blood cells. Helps diagnose liver disease and bile duct obstruction.
Sodium, Potassium and Chloride
Controlled by the kidneys, these are commonly called blood electrolytes. They are involved in water balance, acid/base balance, and the transmission of nerve impulses, especially to the heart.
Calcium and Phosphorus
These minerals are controlled by the parathyroid glands and the kidneys. The levels show possible problems with bones, blood clotting, and nerve, muscle, and cell activity.
References:
  1. Wellness, Inc. How to Read Your Report, 1993
  2. Finkler, M. Practical Ferret Medicine and Surgery for the Private Practitioner, 1993
  3. Brown, S. Ferret Medicine and Surgery, 1992
  4. Fox, JG. Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, 1988 *

What tests might my vet want to run, and why?

Dr. Michael Dutton, DVM, writes:
There is no one test for a general check-up. There are not even tests that are specific for some certain diseases. The following is a list of some example tests for common ferret diseases, but in case of some multi-systemic diseases (such as heart disease), they may not show all the abnormalities.

Tests that are specific for one disease

Tests that help determine a particular organ function

(may not be specific to cause, prognosis, etc.) The problem with biopsies is that you need to biopsy the correct tissue. That may not be possible such as some type of spinal cord or brain lesion. Intestinal diseases are easy to biopsy by surgical methods but that entails anesthesia (which may be risky to an ill ferret) and major abdominal surgery. So... you have a number of difficulties from the medical side to run a test for general health. Even if you can target a specific area, there may not be a definitive test and the owner needs to agree to costs, risks, etc.

The advice dispensed by myself is not meant to supplant the advice of veterinarians who are in charge of the patient. If the patient is not currently under the care of a veterinarian, the client is recommended to take their ferret to one.

What anesthetic should my vet be using?

Isoflurane, an inhalant. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:
The only acceptable type of anesthetic agent for general anesthesia in the ferret is gas, and preferably a gas anesthetic called isoflurane. Most vets use it, but other types of gas anesthetics, such as halothane are still in use. Isoflurane currently is the safest, with the least chance of generating a life-threatening cardiac arrhythmia or causing liver disease, both of which may be seen (rarely) with halothane. Most ferrets, even with severe disease, will go down quickly with isoflurane, and come up within 5-10 minutes. No other premedications are necessary [unlike for the injectable ketamine].

I would not use a vet who used injectable anesthetic for surgery - chances are much higher for overdosing. The effects of injectable anesthetics are extremely unpredictable in the ferret, and older ferrets are at risk for arrhythmia and cardiovascular shock.

Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?

Toxoplasmosis is a disease which is sometimes spread through animal feces, especially cats'. It's nothing to worry about, unless you're pregnant, have a very young child, or have a weakened immune system -- it's very dangerous to a human fetus in the first stages of development, it may be dangerous to infants and toddlers, and it's a concern for those who are HIV+. Ask your doctor if you think you might be susceptible.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

Toxoplasmosis has been reported twice in ferrets. Ferrets will not shed the toxoplasma organism to the extent that cats do, but if they are exposed to cat feces, they may contract the disease and shed very low amounts of oocysts.

Here's the bottom line. Becuase of the devastating effects that Toxoplasma can have on a developing human fetus in the first trimester - you don't want to take ANY chance at all on exposing [a pregnant woman] to Toxo. So [someone in the household who isn't pregnant] inherits all litterbox duties for the next nine months. Actually, she probably stands a higher chance of getting Toxo from poorly cooked beef. The doctor says - if she's a carnivore - better get used to well-done steaks....

How do I care for my sick or recovering ferret?

The following information comes from Sukie Crandall, who generously sent an account of her experiences with Meltdown and Ruffle, two of her ferrets with heart disease.

At first, your sick or recovering ferret will be a big drain on your time, energy, and humor. It's amazing how stubborn a sick ferret can be. If you're unfortunate enough to have a chornically ill ferret, you may find that she becomes easier to deal with after a while, as you both get used to her new routine and limitations.

You may have an assortment of medications for your ferret, whose schedule and doses might change according to her health. It's very important to keep a complete and accurate chart. Note how and when medicines must be given, and whenever you give medicines write them down and note the time. Keep information on side effects, when to skip doses, how to deal with missed doses or accidently doubled doses, which medicines should not be given close together, which must be shielded form light, and all other related information. Do not keep medications in a room which gets too hot, too cold, or too humid. Never give a laxative close to when you give a medicine. Be aware of side-effects and interactions; for instance, some medicines increase the chance of sunburn.

Pill cutters work much better than scalpels or other things, and a tweezers will also be handy. Keep in mind how different medicines must be given, and find the best way for each to minimize the stress to you and your ferret. Some must be given in ways which minimize the exposure to water or saliva. They are most easily given with a narrow pill gun such as your vet will probably carry, or mixed with a fatty gel like Nutrical. Liquids are pretty straight forward, but some ferrets get good at bring those up or spitting them out. If your vet or the manufacturer's research pharmacists say they may be given with fats try putting some Linatone or Nutrical on the ferret's nose and while she is licking that off squirting in the dose at the posterior side of the mouth. (Do not use a laxative such as Petromalt for these.)

You may need to cut down the sides of a litter pan for easy acccess, and folded towels can be used to make gentle ramps. For recovering ferret who is ready for play but isn't quite up to speed yet, put extra ramps, pillows, and climbing boxes around the room she'll be playing in, to make it easier for her to get into and out of boxes and jump down from furniture. (Be careful not to let her be more active than is safe, and always supervise her in play.)

Weak ferrets can't play normally, but they still enjoy encountering new things. Ruffle loved being carried for walks, being given herbs to smell (especially mints and basils), having the sun on her belly for short periods, listening to music (especially songs with her name), hugs and kisses, and other peaceful entertainments.

If your ferret has a reduction in smell try moistening a cotton puff or swab with a bit of perfume and putting it on the lower back above the tail, and behind the ears. That will keep it from sensitive areas but let the ferret enjoy the comforting status of having a ferret-proper level of smell.

If at all possible cancel your trips away. If not possible have a familiar, friendly, knowledgeable pet sitter such as a vet tech. Have a schedule, with some minor variations for interest, so that your pet knows what to expect. When your ferret has to be at the vet's office bring along a favorite toy or blanket which smells like home.

My ferret won't eat. What should I do?

If your ferret gets sick, chances are your vet will tell you to feed him softened food for a time while he recovers. Even so, sometimes an upset or recovering ferret will simply refuse to eat on his own. If that happens, a good thing to try is Gerber's Second Meals chicken baby food. It's full of nutrients and water (though it's not a good full-time food) and most ferrets love it. Put a little on your finger and let your ferret lick it; if he won't try it, carefully smear a little on his nose. He should lick it off and eat the rest from your fingers eagerly. In general, ferrets like attention, and they love to be hand-fed. For a stubborn case, try letting another ferret "raid" the sick one's food bowl in front of him. Sometimes there's nothing like competition to get a ferret to eat.

You can add Nutra-Cal, Pedialyte, medications, and so forth to the baby food if your vet recommends them, and as your ferret's recovery progresses, you can mix in portions of his regular food, moistened somewhat, to gradually work him back to eating dry food on his own.

Sustacal and Ensure are sometimes recommended as short-term diets for very sick ferrets, possibly in a mixture such as "Duck Soup" but since they don't have taurine, they should never be used as the only long-term food for a non-terminal ferret. According to one report, Ensure has the preferred flavors, but iss also more likely to cause diarrhea. The best solution seemed to be combinations of the two.

What's Duck Soup? Anyone have a recipe?

Duck Soup, also called Ferret Soup and similar things, is a high-calorie, high-protein concoction meant to be fed to old or sick ferrets in order to fatten them up and help them regain their health.

The following comes from Ann Davis:

ACME Ferret Company --- The Original DUCK SOUP

For years, we have been trying to find a super formula to fatten up sick ferrets, oldsters and ferrets with ulcers. We have been looking for something high in calories and protein, with added vitamins. After trying just about everything on the market for pets, we had just about given up, and were making do with some things that were not quite perfect for the little guys, because everything made for cats that we could find had a condensed milk base.

[If your ferret is really sick, you may have to work your way through] all the steps, from full Sustacal to Duck Soup in caring for a sick ferret.

We have heard of many miraculous recoveries attributed to Duck Soup. It has helped old ferrets, ferrets with insulinoma, ferrets with hair loss, and ferrets who are just plain too sick to eat.

DUCK SOUP

1 can Sustacal (8 oz., or about 230 ml; it comes in a larger size too)
1 can water (8 oz., or about 230 ml)
2 scoops puppy or kitten weaning formula -- OPTIONAL
4 oz. (110 g? or ml?) dry kitten or ferret food, soaked in enough water to cover and soften it completely

[Sustacal is meant for humans; look for it by baby formulas or in the pharmacy section of your supermarket. Debbie Riccio says you can also use Ensure, Discover 2.0, or Just Born (puppy/kitten milk replacer).]

Mix thoroughly. We always nuke it for them to the temperature of baby formula. We serve about 4 fluid ounces at a time twice a day for maintenance; if your little guys eat too much and you feel they are getting fat, you can increase the amount of water. We have tried increasing the amount of dry food, but if it gets too thick some of them won't eat it. This formula also freezes well -- the Sustacal must be used within 48 hours if left only in the fridge.

What books can I get or recommend to my vet?

There is a series out by the 
          American Animal Hospital Association
          12575 West Bayaud Ave.    
          Lakewood, CO  80228
          tel. 800-252-2242
for practitioners on exotic pets. There are five books in the series. Dr. Jeff Jenkins and Dr. Susan Brown produced the one on Rabbits and Ferrets (he did the rabbit part). Many people feel that it is practical and useful; it has drug dosages, treatments, husbandry, normal clinical pathology values, and diagnostic techniques that might be useful for your vet.

Are there any other useful references?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, recommends these references on cancers:

Lawrence HJ et al. Unilateral adrenalectomy as a treatment for adrenocortical tumors in ferrets: Five cases (1990-1992). JAVMA 203(2): pp 267-270, 15 July 1993.

Rosenthal KL et al. Hyperadrenocorticism associated with adrenocortical tumor or nodular hyperplasia of the adrenal gland in ferrets: 50 cases (1987-1991). JAVMA 203(2):pp. 271-275, 15 July 1993.

Marini, RP et al. Functional islet cell tumor in six ferrets. JAVMA 202(3):430-434, 1 February 1993.

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Copyright © 1994-1996 by Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu>
I am not a ferret expert and cannot guarantee the accuracy of this information.
Last modified: 28 Oct 1996.