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Central America - Nicaragua |  |
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Introduction We've listed the information here in the same way it is laid out in the book so it's easy to find your way around. Upgrades don't replace the guides û they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in September 1998. Be aware that things keep changing û even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate before you leave. |
Introduction
A decade ago most visitors to Nicaragua were internacionalistas, young people eager to participate in a revolutionary society. In the 1990s, with ideology less of a burning issue, today's visitors are primarily interested in the country's tropical climate and other natural attractions.To capitalise on the ecotourism trend, the current government has been courting tourists and investors with its Brazos Abiertos (Open Arms) campaign. As part of this campaign, the Ministry of Tourism has approved several big-ticket tourism projects as well as many smaller ones. Poor infrastructure is still a big problem, keeping away many package tourists and people who expect high standard accommodation.
Nicaragua remains a great destination for budget travellers who don't mind roughing it a bit, and who want to enjoy Latin culture and tropical beauty in a country not yet overrun with tourists.
Facts about the Country
Those returning to Managua after a few years will notice marked changes. An improving economy has produced a construction boom, which means that the number of elevators in Nicaragua (six at last count) should double by the end of 1998. New businesses û large, small and tiny û are popping up everywhere, and people at all income levels are jumping on the tourism bandwagon.
It will be obvious to visitors that the recovering economy has not benefited everyone, as poverty is still widespread. Nevertheless, the atmosphere today in Nicaragua is more optimistic than it has been in years. Unemployment has started to decline and the Contra War is over. Rumours of corruption in President Alemán's government are rife, but at least people can now freely complain. The FSLN (Sandinistas), whose members constitute a large minority of the population, seems to be settling into its role as the vocal opposition party.
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
As ecological awareness grows in Nicaragua (17% of the nation's land mass has been designated national park), so does interest in exploiting the country's tourism potential. The hope is that the growing ecotourism industry will make Nicaragua's many protected areas more accessible without degrading them. These reserves include the BOSAWAS reserve, the largest tropical rain forest in Central America and recently certified as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO.Sadly, increasing official interest in ecological issues has not prevented environmental damage. Illegal logging of precious hardwood is common, and many forests are being destroyed to create ranches and farmland. Untreated sewage continues to be dumped in bodies of water such as Lago de Managua, which has long been considered a dead lake. Air pollution, caused mainly by the burning of fields and trash, was especially bad at the end of the 1998 dry season, when a blanket of smoky haze covered much of the Pacific region for weeks. But don't let these problems keep you from visiting. Nicaragua is still a delightful country, and an increasing number of tourists should help the people in power to strengthen their resolve to preserve the nation's ecotourism assets.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
The Nicaraguan political scene has generally remained calm, although opposition to the Alemán government has sparked occasional outbreaks of civil unrest. In 1997, university students (backed by the Sandinistas) staged a series of protests, claiming that the government was failing to adequately fund higher education. The government refused to give ground and the protests eventually petered out.In the first half of 1998, the most explosive issue was a demand by government doctors for a 1000% raise of their paltry salaries. Most of the government doctors went on strike, and some of their protests erupted into violence. The four-month-long strike ended when the government agreed to a 200% raise over two years. The doctors were supported by the Sandinistas, though the poor people who constitute most of the FSLN's ranks were divided; they were the ones who were most affected by the doctors' refusal to attend patients.
Despite such protests and allegations of corruption and cronyism in the Alemán administration, the political situation has remained relatively stable, certainly compared to the early 1990s. In March 1998 the Alemán government signed a new ESAF (Enhanced Structural Adjustment Facility) û the IMF economic reform program usually vehemently opposed by leftists û and only a few hundred people turned out for an FSLN-led protest march.
The FSLN continues to command a large following, but in recent years the party has been beset by electoral defeats, defections, and the closing of its famous newspaper, Barricada, because of a lack of readership. After losing nationwide elections in 1990 and 1996, the Sandinistas did relatively poorly in regional elections on 1 March 1998. Sandinista leader Daniel Ortega's image suffered in March 1998 when his adult stepdaughter, Zoilamérica Narvaez, accused him of having sexually abused her from the time she was 11. (Ortega categorically denies the charge, and his supporters claim Narvaez is being manipulated by his enemies.) In May 1998, the FSLN confirmed its confidence in Ortega by re-electing him secretary general.
Cardenas is the largest of 14 towns on the southern edge of Lake Nicaragua whose residents wish to join their richer neighbour, Costa Rica. Tensions have been rising between the two countries over many Nicaraguans migrating south, and in late July 1998, the Nicaraguan Government allowed Costa Rican armed border guards to patrol the San Juan River. The deal was quickly rescinded following an uproar in Nicaragua over what was seen as an erosion of national sovereignty.
ECONOMY
Since 1990 Nicaragua's economy has been struggling to recover from the effects of a brutal right-wing dictatorship followed by years of Soviet-style mismanagement, the devastating Contra War and a US economic embargo. Recently the economy has been showing steady improvement, growing by a respectable 4.5% in 1996 and 5% in 1997. Progress is evident in the form of increasing private investment, new construction, rising export revenues, and a small decline in the unemployment rate. All this gives hope, yet these improvements are only slowly having an impact on the widespread poverty wracking the country, particularly in the countryside. In 1997û98 campesinos were hit especially hard by a drought triggered by El Niño.In March 1998 Nicaragua signed an ESAF (Enhanced Structural Adjustment Facility). The program qualifies Nicaragua for low-interest Internal Monetary Fund loans and requires stringent austerity measures by the Alemán administration, which is counting on foreign donors to fill some of the gaps in the 1998 and 1999 budgets. The ESAF qualifies Nicaragua for foreign debt relief through the Highly Indebted Poor Countries (HIPC) initiative. ESAF programs are controversial at the best of times, but it may be a sign of the times that the Sandinistas only raised mild protests.
The economy seems to be uppermost in everyone's mind these days, with ideological warfare taking a back seat. Even the Sandinistas are talking about attracting private foreign investment to generate employment.
EDUCATION
The University of Mobile (Alabama, USA) is looking for another North American university to take over its Latin American campus in San Marcos, Carazo. Mobile intends to withdraw from Nicaragua by June 2000.Facts for the Visitor
A visit to Nicaragua involves its share of discomforts, such as poor roads, crowded inter- and intra-city buses, occasional electrical and water shortages and a great deal of petty crime. The pollution caused by the common practice of burning fields can be a real nuisance during the dry season. But overall, Nicaragua remains a great destination for shoestring travellers. Prices in dollar terms have held steady, and inexpensive lodging and eating places still abound. Other good news for travellers is that the violent crime level remains lower than in other Central American countries.Visitors planning a long-term stay should be aware that citizens of many countries, including the UK and the USA, can now stay in Nicaragua for up to 90 days without a visa. Those who need to request a visa extension should note that the Immigration office has moved. (See the Visas & Documents section for details.)
TOURIST OFFICES
The Ministerio de Turismo (MINTUR) now has tourism agents in many Nicaraguan cities in addition to its main office in Managua. The names of the agents and their office addresses are given below. MINTUR was unable to provide office hours or phone numbers.Bluefields
Sra Zeneida Espinoza
Barrio CanalEstelí
Sr Horacio Lanzas
Hotel ModernoGranada
Sra Lucía Ode
Convento de San FranciscoLeón
Sra María Hebe Savorio
20m east of the Ministerio de TrabajoRivas
Sr Enrique Muñoz
opposite FoniconSan Carlos/Río San Juan
Sra Julieta Centeno
ask for directions at the San Carlos Post OfficeVISAS & DOCUMENTS
Citizens of countries with which Nicaragua has a libre visado agreement may now stay in Nicaragua for up to 90 days before needing a visa (previously they could only stay up to 30 days). These countries include: Belgium, Denmark, Finland, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK, and the USA. Visitors from these countries are issued a tourist card for US$5 upon arrival.Australia, Canada, New Zealand and other European countries that do not have a libre visado agreement with Nicaragua still need visas to enter the country. Remember that visa requirements can change, so visitors should check at a Nicaraguan embassy before entering the country.
The immigration office, Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería (Tel 244 3989, 244 3968), has moved to the north central part of town, in the Ciudad Jardin/Tenderí area. Your best bet is to take a taxi.
Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world: http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.html
MONEY
Exchanging Money
It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the córdoba:
http://www.oanda.comThe dollar prices in the current guidebook are still generally valid since Nicaragua has slowly devalued the córdoba to maintain its inflation-adjusted value compared to the US dollar.
Readers report that Banpro Visa/Banco de la Producci≤n (Km 4 Carretera a Masaya, Edificio Delta, Tel 278 5050), gives cash advances on Visa cards. A Banpro official confirmed that any Banpro in the country (there are branches in Chinandega, Le≤n, Matagalpa, and Ocotal) will give advances on Visa cards. Another reader reports that Pinoleros in Managua no longer cashes travellers cheques.
Currency
Nicaragua has begun to issue 1 and 5 córdoba coins.Taxes
The airport departure tax is now US$20.POST & COMMUNICATIONS
On-line Services
There are now a half dozen companies providing on-line services in Nicaragua, including:IBW
Tel 278 6328, fax 278 637
info@ibw.com.ni
http://www.ibw.com.niTelematix
Tel 278 3131
Shell Centroamérica 50m west
Managua
http://www.tmx.com.niReaders have reported the following:
Granada:
There is an Internet place on the Parque Col≤n that rents computers for US$3 a half hour.
Le≤n:
Microrent, half a block west of Iglesia de la Recolecci≤n (Tel 311 1163, microrent@microrent.mail), offers computers for US$2 an hour. The staff is friendly and the place has air-con.MEDIA
The new English language newspaper, Nica News, is an excellent resource for visitors. http://www.nicanews.com.niThe Sandinista newspaper, Barricada, shut down in early 1998.
INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on Nicaragua, try the following links:Nicaragua Online û A resource with plenty of useful links on Nicaragua:
http://www.nicaragua-online.com/Steve Daniel û photo essays from Nicaragua:
http://www.stevendaniel.com/Eco Travels in Latin America:
http://www2.planeta.com/mader/
La Prensa û On-line news from Nicaragua (in Spanish):
http://www.laprensa.com.ni/US Department of State entry and security information:
http://travel.state.gov/nicaragua.htmlDANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Crime in Nicaragua is worsening, although it has not reached the high levels of other Central American countries. At present, foreigners are rarely the victims of violent crime, although this may be partly because there are still relatively few foreign visitors. Most crime in Nicaragua consists of petty theft and break-ins, but travelers should be aware that gang activity is increasing, armed muggings sometimes occur and carjackings are not unheard of. Occasionally an entire busload of people is held up. Always be on guard and keep an eye on your possessions, especially in Managua and on buses. If you are unlucky enough to be confronted by armed robbers, hand over your valuables û these criminals are prepared to injure those who resist.The eastern area of the Department of Matagalpa is a dangerous no-man's land, with armed thugs robbing and occasionally killing with impunity. The northern part of the Department of Jinotega is not as bad but it also has bandits who would find foreign tourists a tempting target. (The cities of Matagalpa and Jinotega are fine.) In addition, most of the live land mines left over from the fighting of the 1980s are in this region.
Each summer dozens of swimmers are drowned. Beachgoers are urged to exercise great caution when swimming at the Pacific beaches. Above all, do not enter the water if you've drunk too much. One visitor to Corn Island on Nicaragua's Caribbean coast recently had a close encounter with a shark.
ACTIVITIES
Diving
Managua now has a diving shop, Oceanica (Tel 277 2104), Centro Comercial Plaza Barcelona (near the new cathedral). Open Monday to Friday from 10 am to 6 pm and Saturday from 9 am to 3 pm, Oceanica offers diving instruction and scuba gear rentals.LANGUAGE COURSES
Nicaragua Spanish Schools, PO Box 20042, Santa Barbara, CA 93120, USA (Tel 805 687 9941), runs Spanish language programs at four locations: Estelí, Granada, Managua and San Juan del Sur. See its Web site:
http://pages.prodigy.net/nss-pmc/One reader enthusiastically recommends GLSN (Granada Language School Nicaragua), on the Calle Real Xalteva, 6 1/2 blocks west of Granada's Parque Col≤n. Four hours of instruction daily plus lodging and meals with a family costs a very modest US$85 a week.
ENTERTAINMENT
In Managua, Coro de Angeles (from Banexpo, Carretera a Masaya, one block west; Tel 267 0398) offers foreign art films for US$1.50 in a cafe setting.Getting There & Away
LAND
There is a new bus service to Costa Rica: Transnica (Tel/fax 278 2090), from Rotonda de Santo Domingo, half a block east, Centro Comercial Lucila, Modulo 8. Buses for San José (US$20 return) depart Managua daily at 7 am and arrive in San José around 3.30 pm. Returning buses depart San José at 5.30 am. Buses have air-con, bathrooms, and people on board to help with the border paperwork.Getting Around
BUS
The Cotlantico (Cooperativa de Transporte al Atlántico) bus terminal, where buses depart for Rama, has moved 1km north to the Mercado Mayoreo. The new telephone number is Tel 233 4533.HITCHING
We have heard stories from locals (not tourists) of drivers picking up uniformed policemen, only to discover the 'policemen' are robbers in disguise.HYDROFOIL
The Granada-San Carlos hydrofoil schedule (Bielonica, Tel 266 4139) has been changed. Hydrofoils now make the Granada-San Carlos trip just three days a week, on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, departing Granada at 8.30 am. The return trip departs San Carlos at l1 am on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday.The Granada hydrofoil makes a scheduled stop at Solentiname only on Saturday, arriving there around 11.45 am. It picks up passengers for the return trip on Sunday at 12.30 pm. On other days Bielonica will make unscheduled stops at Solentiname if five or more passengers want to disembark there.
Bielonica is planning to add a hydrofoil service from San Jorge to Ometepe as soon as a new dock in San Jorge is completed.
The hydrofoils, which were bought used from the former Soviet Union, are an attractive alternative to the slow boat, but passengers need a certain amount of flexibility. Travellers have reported delays and missed connections to the Río San Juan boat to El Castillo.
Managua
The old cathedral, reconditioned with help from foreign donors, is now open to the public daily; admission is US$0.50. It is now the site of artistic and official government events. Sergio Ramírez, noted author and former Sandinista leader, was honored there recently after winning the Premio Alfaguara de Novela in 1998.Managua's Museo Nacional has moved to the Palacio Nacional (also called Palacio de Cultura), adjacent to the old cathedral. The beautifully refurbished Palacio is worth a visit. Among its exhibits are those on Nicaragua's indigenous past, the colonial period and Nicaraguan natural history. The Palacio is open Monday to Saturday 8 am to noon and 1 to 5 pm, and Sunday from 8 am to 6 pm.
Around Managua
VOLC┴N MASAYA
The entrance fee for foreigners is now US$4. The road to the far side of the crater is now closed because that part of the crater rim is eroding. One reader reports that people can still go to the far side 'at their own risk', but we advise against it.North of Managua
MATAGALPA
According to local naturalist Pat Werner, there is an 'astounding number' of quetzals in Nicaragua, and they are much more accessible here than in Guatemala or Costa Rica. The rare and beautiful birds are easy to spot in a virgin forest very close to the highway between Matagalpa and Jinotega. To get to this forest from Matagalpa, go past Selva Negra, then past Fuente Pura (a well-known landmark). About 2km up the road from Fuente Pura, turn right onto a trail leading into the forest. After walking for 20 minutes or so, visitors are almost always able to see the birds. The best time to view them is in the early morning and late afternoon, when they feed on wild avocado, their favourite food.South of Managua
GRANADA
The dismal budget accommodation scene in Granada seems to be improving with the appearance of a couple of new hospedajes: Hospedaje Familiar (on the same street as Auto Hotel Cocibal) and Hospedaje Colonial (near Casa de Los Leones). Another new hospedaje is being built near the Hotel Granada.SAN JUAN DEL SUR
San Juan has changed its character somewhat in the last couple of years, as it becomes an increasingly popular chele (gringo) destination with several new places to eat.Lago de Nicaragua
SOLENTINAME
Albergue Mancarrón (Tel 552 2059, 260 3345 in Managua) is now $50 per person per day for rooms with private bath, meals and one excursion included. Albergue Solentiname, on Isla San Fernando, the island where most of Solentiname's painters and artisans reside, offers simple rooms with shared bath at US$25, meals included. To make reservations for the Albergue Solentiname, call María Elena Pineda of the Galería Solentiname in Managua (Tel 277 0939). Do±a María Elena can also arrange packages to Solentiname. See the Getting Around section for the new hydrofoil schedule for Solentiname.The Caribbean Coast
CORN ISLANDS
There have been reports that an Italian company is planning to invest US$30 million in Little Corn Island. Those interested in enjoying the island's remoteness may want to visit soon, before it starts getting built up.Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don't stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Central America. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers' reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Scoop û Central America News Archive
Postcards û Travellers' Reports From Central America
The Thorn Tree û Central America Travellers' Bulletin Board
Propaganda û Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to Central America û Central America, Latin American Spanish phrasebook
Destinations û Lonely Planet's On-line Mini Guide to Central AmericaThanks for Your Feedback
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