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Introduction We've listed the information here in the same way that it is laid out in the book so you can find your way around it easily. Online Upgrades don't replace the guides û they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in June 1998.Be aware that things keep changing û even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate before you leave. |
Since the current edition of the book was published the economic downturn in South-East Asia has started to bite. Sporadic fighting continues along the border with Thailand, but unless you’re a Karen refugee this is unlikely to affect you. An Australian and a Thai national were abducted by Karen rebels in early 1998, but were released unharmed after a few days.
The country is growing more popular as a tourist destination, but the military government has not shown any firm signs that it will relinquish power to civilians. The SLORC has changed its name but the smell may remain the same, and in its search for a solution to the country’s economic problems it has reintroduced strict controls on imports and exports.
Warning
While travelling in Myanmar, please always be aware of the effect of your actions on Burmese citizens. One traveller wrote to tell us that during her trip there, two travellers refused to show their passports to the military as a form of protest. As a result, the bus driver was ordered by the army to stand in the sun for three hours while the travellers waited on the bus, completely unaware of the situation they had caused. The government is unlikely to harass tourists, but may well take it out on the locals behind closed doors. It is one thing to show a form of protest against the junta, but make sure your protest does not affect others.Facts about the Country
HISTORY
In November 1997 the 21-member SLORC was replaced by a 19-member group called the State Peace and Development Council (SPDC), made up of four government heads and 15 military commanders from various regions around the country. Some observers say it's merely the same old wine in new bottles, while others speculate this could signal a change in the military's policies. The same four top generals, SPDC chairman Gen Than Shwe, vice chairman Gen Maung Aye, secretary one Khin Nyunt (head of MI), and secretary two Gen Tin Oo, remain in power, while all other ministers were replaced.Aung San Suu Kyi and the National League for Democracy remain isolated and ineffective, and among the rank and file in Myanmar today they no longer appear to be considered viable alternatives to the much-hated government. Unfortunately, a general state of resignation has set in, so complete is the government's stranglehold on dissent. That the international press misses this fact is even more surprising than the way the media often mistakenly describes Ma Suu Kyi as an elected leader (she was never a candidate, and never ran for office). The SPDC is the only game in town and will remain so unless or until the military leadership decides to relinquish control.
ECONOMY
Since July 1997, the kyat has lost about 35% of its value against the US$ and inflation is galloping along at over 25%, indicating that even isolated economies like Myanmar's are being affected by the South-East Asian economic downturn. According to the Far Eastern Economic Review, China will now provide 'fiscal assistance' as well as military assistance to the SPDC.Foreign exchange reserves have fallen, and the government has instituted a 'buy local' campaign, imposing severe import restrictions. With a decline in Asian tourism – but enough hotel rooms already built to meet anticipated demand for the next five years – the hotel industry is struggling.
LANGUAGE
'In your next issue it might be helpful to include the word 'toilet' and its translation in Burmese. It's one place everyone has to visit sooner or later (often sooner).'
Source: MK Lee, Singapore, (Dec 1997)
(It's in the Burmese language phrasebook, but here it is for the record:
toilet: ein-dha
toilet paper: ein-dha seq-ku)Facts for the Visitor
VISAS & PERMITS
Generally the visa situation has remained stable, but for the latest information try these links:http://www.travisa.com/Myanmar/Myaninst.htm
http://www.travelfinder.com/visareq/Myanmar(Burma).htmlTravel permits are no longer necessary for Mawlamyine or Kyaiktiyo. The Kayah and Chin states remain completely off limits.
It is reportedly now possible to go into Burma for US$5 from Mai Sai, Thailand. This is a good way to extend your visa. It's only a day visa but on re-entry you receive another 30-day visa.
'The issuing time for visas at Bangkok Embassy is now 15mins only.
'Extensions: at Yangon, it takes six hours and you need to get five or so signatures from different officers for a 14-day extension (US$36). It is now much easier to stay longer in Myanmar – small signs at the immigration desks at Yangon airport are stating: the charge for every day overstay in Myanmar is only US$3. Just before you check out of the country the immigration will charge a fee and put an extension stamp on your passport. This procedure is normal and takes only a few minutes. Your passport must be valid six months after the planned end of stay in Myanmar.'
Source: David Steinke, Germany (Dec 97)'I wanted to inform you of a recent change in policy at the Mai Sai-Thakhilek border. Last week I was able to officially 'exit' and 're-enter' Thailand here, enabling me to receive a new 30-day tourist visa free of charge (I am a US citizen). The Myanmar Immigration Police charged me US$5 (or 350B) to enter Thakhilek for the day, and graced my passport with both entrance and exit stamps for Myanmar. Quick, convenient, cheap, no passport photos.'
Source: Rachel Jones, Taiwan (Jan 98)Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world: http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.html
MONEY
Foreign Exchange Certificates
We've received a barrage of letters about the US$300 FEC that you are required to pay at the airport upon arrival, but none of them add much to what is published in the book. One traveller found the departure tax (US$6) payable only in FECs (although the book advises it's dollars or FECs). Another found German marks and French francs as well as a couple of other foreign currencies officially accepted to buy the FECs, so that's certainly a change since the book was published. The Myanmar embassy in Canberra confirmed that major currencies are accepted.Some travellers have concocted elaborate schemes to avoid paying it, including bribing officials, trying to convince them they had planned to put the $300 on their credit card, sneaking past the exchange counter and, believe it or not, hiding in the toilets. We don't advise you to do any of this – you can, after all, spend the FECs anywhere in Myanmar. One traveller had the Myanmar consulate in London stamp 'package tour' on his passport and avoided paying the $300, and those on a pre-arranged tour appear to be exempt.
I made two visits to Myanmar in early 1998, and in both cases was able to get the Thai travel agents who issued my visas to stamp 'EVT' on them (the code for 'package tour', which exempts the visa holder from the FEC requirement) . On arrival at Yangon airport, officials took one look at the visa and waved me past the currency booth.
INTERNET RESOURCES
For further up-to-date information on Myanmar, try the following hot links:The Burma Project
http://www.soros.org/burma.htmlFree Burma
http://sunsite.unc.edu/freeburma/index.htmlThe Internet Travel Guide
http://www.cs.ruu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/travel/myanmar-guide/part1.htmlMyanmar Related Travel and Tourist Web Sites around the World
http://www.myanmar.com/gov/tourist/travelw.htmOn the Road to Mandalay
http://www.bpe.com/travel/asia/burma/index.htmlThe Ecotravel Center
http://www.ecotour.org/ecotour.htmSHOPPING
Export Restrictions
Check the export restrictions in the book (p 113) very closely:
'There is a brief, cursory customs check (after your bags have been checked through) upon departure. The only question asked of me was whether I purchased any jewellery. It you have, be ready to show it, AND the receipt from the government approved shop, otherwise it is likely to be confiscated. (I had no trouble, but the Dutch woman behind me had her ruby necklace taken from her!)'
Source: Keith A Liker, USA (Dec 97)Getting Around
AIR
There is a new domestic airline called the Yangon Airways, which one traveller reported as being in 'pretty good condition'.A couple of travellers have advised that it is cheaper to book flights with Air Mandalay or Yangon Airways at a travel agency, since the fares are approximately 15% cheaper than when booked directly with the airline.
TRAIN
There are now direct trains to Bagan from Mandalay. Tickets can be bought at the railway station in Mandalay.If you want to buy train tickets to Mandalay in advance, you need to go to a place on Bogyoke Aung San Street (close to 34 Street). We were able to book a sleeper two days in advance, for $46 including dinner, drinking water and a cabin for two people. Of course this is far more expensive than the bus (only $6) but much more comfortable, though shaky. It took 15hrs (the bus took 15-20 hrs, depending on flat tyres).'
Source: Ulrike Dorrie, Germany (Dec 97)LP still recommends going by bus rather than train, since the bus services are privately owned and thus less of your money goes to the government.
CAR
'We had decided to go to Mrauk U by car and had already ordered, with the help of a travel agency in Yangon, a Landcruiser (for the price of $110 per day) to come to Ngapali to pick us up. On arrival the drivers swore that, according to their inquiries made in Thandwe, it was absolutely impossible to go by car, and in the end refused to head for Mrauk U. It seems that in the rainy season many of the 22 bridges on the road have been destroyed and that road repairs yet to come make the trip really impossible.'
Source: Joachim Koster, Germany (Feb 98)RIVER FERRY
Boats to Bagan (from Mandalay) are reported to leave now on a daily basis between 5.30 and 6 am. You are no longer allowed to get on the boat the evening before departure. The fast boat takes about 10 hours, the slow boat (Thursday and Sunday) takes about 15 hours if you don't get stuck.Yangon
THINGS TO SEE & DO
'Another place to discourage visitors from going is Yangon Zoo. Not only does it have a fairly limited range of species but some are in quite bad condition, especially the Malay bears. Since your guide was finalised, they have started charging foreigners a US$5 entrance fee, which is exorbitant in local terms for what the zoo has to offer.'
Source: Edwin Reavley, UK (Jan 98)I visited the zoo in April and was able to negotiate an admission fee of only 500 kyat. I didn't find conditions as bad as described above.
Mandalay
INFORMATION
Money
Thein Yandanar, a private moneychanger on 30th St between 77th and 78th, can change pound sterling, Thai baht, Singapore dollars, FEC and US dollars cash.The Moustache Bros pwe troupe has been blacklisted from performing around the country following the arrest of members Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw. The remaining members, including Par Par Lay's two brothers, wife and sister, continue to perform for visitors at their studio on 39th St between 80th and 81st Sts. Performances can be arranged any evening; the charge varies according to the number of attendees. Part of the proceeds goes toward food and medicine for Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw, who are imprisoned at a hard labour camp in Myitkyina in the Kachin State.
North-Eastern Myanmar
Amnesty International reports that the army has tortured and killed hundreds of ethnic Shan villagers in the last two years and forced at least 300,000 to flee their homes. Children, elderly people and Buddhist monks are reportedly among the victims, but the SPDC has dismissed Amnesty's allegations as fabrications.
Western Myanmar
India and the SPDC have agreed to develop the old WWII 'Burma Road' from Tamu to Kalemyo to facilitate traffic across the border. The road is over 160km long.
Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don't stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Myanmar. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers' reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Scoop û News Archive
Postcards û Travellers' Reports From Myanmar
The Thorn Tree û South East Asia Travellers' Bulletin Board
Propaganda û Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to Myanmar û Myanmar, South-East Asia on a shoestring, Burmese phrasebook
Destinations û Lonely Planet's Online Mini Guide to MyanmarThanks for Your Feedback
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