Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Union of Myanmar (Burma became Myanmar in 1989 after the State Law and Order Restoration Council decided that the old name implied the dominance of Burmese culture; the Burmese are just one of the many ethnic groups in the country)
Area: 671,000 sq km (416,020 sq mi)
Population: 46.8 million (growth rate 2.1%)
Capital city: Yangon (Rangoon) (pop 4 million)
People: 65% Burmese, 10% Shan, 7% Karen, 4% Rakhine and Chin, Kachin, Mon, Chinese, Indian and Assamese minorities
Language: Burmese, also Karen, Chin, Shan and Kachin dialects
Religion: 87% Theravada Buddhist, 5% Christian, 4% Muslim, 3% animist
Government: Military council
Head of state & Prime Minister: General Than Shwe
Myanmar shares borders with Thailand, Laos, China, India and Bangladesh. Southern Myanmar borders the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea. The central part of the country is characterised by wide rivers and expansive plains. The major river, the Ayeyarwady (formerly spelt Irrawaddy) is navigable for 1600km (900mi) of its length and its flood plains form the country's main agricultural centre. Mountains rise to the east along the Thai border and to the north to meet the eastern end of the Himalayan range. The highest peak, Hkakabo Razi (5881m/19,290ft), is on the Myanmar-Tibet border. It's the highest peak in South-East Asia.
Almost half of Myanmar is covered by forest, but if timber concessions (and smuggling) to Thailand and other Asian countries continue at current rates, widespread deforestation is inevitable. About 15% of total land is cultivated, mainly with rice. Burma used to be the world's largest exporter of rice but exports have diminished considerably. Two thirds of the population is employed in agriculture and less than 10% in manufacturing. According to UN standards, Myanmar is now one of the 10 poorest countries in the world.
There are three distinct seasons: the cool, dry winter from November to February; the unpleasantly hot summer from March to May; and the wet, humid monsoon from May to October.
Myanmar's prehistory begins with the migration of three groups into the country: the first were Mons from what is now Cambodia, then came Mongol Burmans from the eastern Himalayas and later came Thai tribes from northern Thailand. The 11th-century Burman kingdom of Bagan was the first to gain control of the territory that is present-day Myanmar, but it failed to unify the disparate racial groups and collapsed before a Tartar invasion in 1287. For the next 250 years, Burma remained in chaos, and the territory was not reunified until the mid-16th century when a series of Taungoo kings extended their domain and convincingly defeated the Siamese. In the 18th century, the country fractured again as Mons and hill tribes established their own kingdoms. In 1767, the Burmans invaded Siam and sacked Ayuthaya, forcing the Siamese to move their capital to Bangkok.
Occasional border clashes and British imperialist ambitions caused the British to invade in 1824, and then again in 1852 and 1883. Burma became a part of British India and the British built the usual colonial infrastructure, and developed the country into a major rice exporter. Indians and Chinese arrived with the British to complicate the racial mix. In 1937, Burma was separated from British India and there was nascent murmuring for self-rule. The Japanese drove the British from Burma in WW II and attempted to enlist Burman support politically. The Burmans were briefly tempted by an opportunity for independence, but a resistance movement soon sprang up. In 1948, Burma became independent and almost immediately began to disintegrate as hill tribes, communists, Muslims and Mons all revolted.
In 1962 a left-wing army revolt led by General Ne Win deposed the troubled democratic government and set the country on the path of socialism. The Burman economy crumbled over the next 25 years until, in 1987 and 1988, the Burman people decided they had had enough. Huge demonstrations called for Ne Win's resignation and massive confrontations between pro-democracy demonstrators and the military resulted in 3000 deaths in a six-week period. Several puppets were appointed by Ne Win and then a military coup (believed to be instigated by Ne Win) saw General Saw Maung take control. The new leader promised elections in 1989. In spite of all preventative measures, the National League for Democracy scored an overwhelming victory at the polls. The junta prevented the elected officials from taking their seats and arrested party leaders, including Aung San Suu Kyi, who remained imprisoned until mid-1995. SLORC has since quashed resistance from Karen rebels and engaged the private army of drug lord Khun Sa. The January 1996 'disappearance' of Khun Sa has given rise to suspicions of a smacked out peace deal between Rangoon and the world's largest heroin baron. Reports of extensive use of forced labour on infrastructure projects continue to filter back to the West. Despite the government's failure to improve human rights, Myanmar was welcomed into ASEAN in July 1997.
GDP: US$31 billion
GDP per head: US$676
Annual growth: 6.4%
Inflation: 25%
Major products/industries: teak, rice, jute and illegal opium poppies
Major trading partners: Singapore, Thailand, China, Japan, India
Art has been closely intertwined with religion and royalty in Burman history. Temples, pagodas and palaces displayed the artistic skills of painters, wood carvers and sculptures. Temples and pagodas were traditionally built of brick and many are still standing. The great palaces, however, were made of wood, and only one badly-deteriorating example of these beautiful carved structures remains today. Art and architecture, which relied on royal support, faded when the last royal kingdom collapsed.
Interior, Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon (18K)
Although court culture has been extinguished, popular street-level culture is vibrant and thriving. Drama is the mainstay of this culture, and just about any celebration is a good excuse for a pwe (show). Performances may recount Buddhist legends, or be more light-hearted entertainments involving slapstick comedy, dance, ensemble singing or giant puppets. Burman music is an integral part of a pwe; it originates from Siam and emphasises rhythm and melody. Instruments are predominantly percussive and include drums, boat-shaped harps, gongs and bamboo flutes.
Off the record: Mind your manners
Over 85% of Burman are Theravada Buddhist, although it is not the official state religion and since the Ne Win government takeover, it has actually officially occupied a less central role in Burman life. In the Rakhine region, towards Bangladesh, there are many Muslims. Christian missionaries have had some success among hill tribes but many remain staunch animists.
Monks seeking alms (18K)
Burmese is the predominant language and has its own alphabet and script. Though you're hardly going to have time to master the alphabet, it may be worth learning the numerals, if only so you can read the bus numbers. English is spoken by a few Burmans, particularly by the older generation.
It's easier to buy authentic Burman dishes from food stalls rather than restaurants. Chinese and Indian eateries predominate, and hotel restaurants tend to remove much of the chilli and shrimp paste from their Burman dishes. Rice is the core of any Burman meal. To this is added a number of curry options and a spicy raw vegetable salad, and almost everything is flavoured with ngapi - a dried and fermented shrimp paste. Chinese tea is generally preferable to the over-strong, over-sweet and over-milky Burman tea. Sugar-cane juice is a very popular streetside drink, and stronger tipples include orange brandy, lychee wine and the alarming-sounding white liquor and jungle liquor.
Festivals are drawn-out, enjoyable affairs and generally take place or culminate on full-moon days. There's often a country fair atmosphere about these celebrations, and they may feature stalls, pwes, music and boxing bouts. Independence Day on 4 January is marked by a seven-day fair in Yangon. Around the middle of April, the three-day Thingyan (water festival) starts the Burman new year. This is the height of the hot season, and it is sensibly celebrated by throwing buckets of cold water at anyone who dares venture into the streets. Girls chase boys through the streets, covering their bound victims in soot and parading them about; later, cows and fish are dressed up, adorned and set free by processions of dancing drummers. In October, the sober three-month Buddhist `Lent' ends and the Festival of Light celebrates Buddha's return from heaven. For three days Myanmar is lit up by fire balloons and paper lanterns and families make offerings at the local pagoda.
Visas: 28-day visas issued
Health risks: cholera, dysentery, hepatitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid
Time: UTC plus 6.5 hours
Electricity: 230V, 50 Hz (when it's working)
Weights & Measures: Imperial with local variations (see the conversion table.)
Tourism: 65,000 visitors in 1994
Money & Costs
Currency: Kyat
Exchange rate: US$1 = K6.25 (official rate) about K125 (free market)
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$2-3
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-7
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and up
- Budget room: US$5-7
- Moderate hotel: US$15-20
- Top-end hotel: US$30 and up
The official rate of exchange bears no relation to reality. As soon as you exit immigration at Yangon airport, you have to buy US$300 worth of foreign exchange certificates (FEC) at the official rate (though some travellers report that authorities are becoming less strict about enforcing this rule). These are used to pay officially-approved hotel rooms and make accommodation seem extortionate. However, if you travel throughout Myanmar, you'll have to pay in FECs only about half the time; free market kyats are good for the rest. Accommodation at the free market exchange rate is a bargain. Costs will vary depending on whether you use officially-approved hotels and transport or take the increasingly available opportunity to arrange your own. Official budget rooms are around US$18, free market kyats would make this around US$1.
If you're travelling very cheaply, you can get by on about $10 a day. If you want your own bathroom and a choice of restaurants, budget $25-30 a day. Flying or taking express trains would add about $5 a day to that budget. If you want to stay somewhere fancy, you can pay anywhere between $25 and $300 a night.
Although it's illegal to change US dollars unofficially, you can change FECs with the locals. Changing FECs at the official rate is downright insane. It's safest to change in shops or hotels than on the street, and get a few rates before you do your exchange. If you want to change dollars illegally you might get a slightly better rate than for FECs, but the difference is negligible. very few places accept credit cards.
Tipping is not really part of the Burmese culture, but 'presents' are. A minor bribe will get you a long way with Burmese bureaucrats. Money isn't necessary - cigarettes and pens will speed things up a bit, foreign t-shirts will work miracles.
When to Go
Climate wise, the best season for visiting Myanmar is November to February, when it rains least and isn't too hot. If you're hitting the hill stations or the Rakhine coast, try March to May - on the other hand, Bagan and Mandalay are intolerable during these months. Myanmar is least crowded in May, June and September.
Warning
The Thai border area contains smugglers, rebel armies and refugees and is the scene of occasional military stoushes. Travellers should steer well clear of the border or contact their embassy to receive the latest reports on the security situation. The `Golden Triangle', north-east of Mandalay, along the Thai border, is an absolutely no-go area. The relationship between the SLORC and Khun Sa's opium-sodden 15,000- strong private army has become very cosy but the situation for travellers remains extremely dangerous.
The xenophobic government does its best to keep tabs on visitors, and if you ask to go to other areas outside the Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake, Taunggyi quadrangle, you will either require a permit and/or a guide, or receive a firm `no'. The list of permutations is endless and confusing, and the rules can be bent, changed or ignored depending on luck and circumstances. If you want to get to somewhere off the usual tourist route, find out the current regulations from the authorities in advance, ask other travellers if the regulations are actually enforced, make it up as you go along, and be prepared to be disappointed if your luck runs out.
Yangon (Rangoon)
Yangon lies in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar on the wide Yangon River about 30km (19mi) from the sea. Although the population hovers around 4 million, the city seems so full of trees and shade that some neighbourhoods are practically jungle, giving it a totally different feel to other Asian cities of comparable size. At night, Yangon's wide boulevards come alive with hordes of stalls selling delicious-looking food and piles of huge cigars. If you can close your eyes to the decay of the old colonial architecture downtown, you'll probably agree that this is one of the most charming cities in Asia.
Yangon is home to the gold-plated Shwedagon Paya, which dominates the city from its hilltop site. Legend has it that the original stupa was built to enshrine eight of Buddha's hairs. Today's mighty monument was built in the 18th century and is surrounded by an incredible assortment of statues, temples, shrines, images and pavilions. The Shwedagon was called 'a beautiful winking wonder' by Kipling and it truly is a magical place. Other sights include the colonial architecture of the legendary Strand Hotel, the colossal reclining Buddha in Chaukhtatgyi Paya and the peaceful Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes. Pro-democracy landmarks include the Martyr's Mausoleum and Aung San Suu Kyi's House.
Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon (13K)
Cheroot vendor (19K)
Since the privatisation of the hotel industry in 1993, there has been an explosion of hotel and guesthouse development in Yangon. The cheapest guesthouses are near the river in the western part of the city; there are other clean and friendly options near the railway station. The best authentic Burmese cuisine is in the Shwedagon Paya area, but there are lots of places around the city centre. Be aware that hardly any food is available anywhere in the city after about 9 pm.
Apart from the impossibly crowded buses, getting around Yangon is not too difficult. Myanmar's version of the trishaw (sai-kaa) is good for short trips; catch a car taxi or one of the many tiny three-wheeled Mazdas for anything longer.
This sprawling cultural centre is the most Burman of Myanmar's cities. It was the last capital of Myanmar before the British took over and is the country's second-largest city. Highlights of Mandalay include Shwenandaw Kyaung, the sole remaining building of the once extravagant moated palace, Mandalay Hill with its spiralling stairways, temples and sweeping views and the ancient Rakhine Buddha image at Mahamuni Paya. Bustling markets with produce and handicrafts from all over Upper Myanmar are another feature of Mandalay. There are four `deserted cities' nearby: Amarapura, Sagaing, Ava and Mingun. Mingun is the most appealing of the four. Not only are there some wonderful monuments in various states of disrepair, but just getting there is half the fun. Mingun is only accessible by river, and the boat ride from Mandalay is a treat.
This bewildering, deserted city of fabulous pagodas and temples on the banks of the Ayeyarwady is one of the wonders of Asia. Bagan's period of grandeur stretched from the 11th to the 13th century, and an enormous number of magnificent buildings were constructed here. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan in 1287 and never rebuilt. There are some 5000 temples, the most interesting of which are Ananda, Thatbyinnyu and Gawdawpalin.
Gawdawpalin Temple (18K)
Bago (Pega)
During the Mon dynasty, Bago was a fabulous city, a major seaport and capital of lower Myanmar. The city was destroyed by the Burman in 1757 but partially restored in the early 19th century. When the Bago River changed its course and cut the city off from the sea, Bago failed to return to its previous grandeur. Sights include the Shwemawdaw Pagoda which dominates the town, the Hintha Gone Pagoda and the 55m (180ft) long, reclining Shwethalyaung Buddha.
Inle Lake (15K)
Official rulings and a general impression of gentle discouragement may hamper your chances of stepping off Myanmar's usual tourist routes. The general lack of scheduled flights and buses won't help the situation either. However, it's worth the extra effort to test your resourcefulness and explore.
Pathein (Bassein)
Located in the Ayeyarwady delta about 190km (118mi) west of Yangon, this premier port city is noted for its handicrafts (pottery and hand-painted umbrellas) and the Shwemokhtaw Pagoda (which was built by the three lovers of a Muslim princess). A major festival is held at the pagoda over the full-moon period in May. You can't fly to Pathein, and the train trip is laborious. Your best bet is the 18-hour overnight ferry trip from Yangon, travelling along the Twante Canal and through the delta waterways.
Thaton
Long before the rise of Bagan, a Mon kingdom thrived here, trading as far afield as Cambodia. Today little remains of the ancient city: traces of the massive city walls can be seen, and there are some interesting pagodas. The town's core is a leafy area situated on either side of the highway with a pleasing mix of colonial mansions and thatched-roof homes. A picturesque canal network irrigates rice fields and fruit orchards. Thaton is on the main road and rail line between Bago and Mawlamyine. Nearby, at Taikkala, there are ruined fort walls and an ancient pagoda.
If you're wondering what Yangon and Mandalay looked and felt like at the start of the decade, come to Mawlamyine where the atmosphere of post-colonial decay is still palpable. Once a major teak port, this tropical, hillside town south of Thaton is now known for its scenic surrounds, elephant labour and beautiful pagodas. Thanbyuzayat, 60km (37mi) to the south, has an Allied cemetery - the resting place of prisoners who died building the infamous `death railway' during WW II. Mawlamyine is the only place in Burma that Rudyard Kipling, author of the famous Road to Mandalay, actually visited.
Pyay (Prome)
Two days south of Bagan by riverboat, the town of Pyay is close to the few remaining ruins of the ancient Pyu capital of Thayekhittaya (Sri Kshetra). The remote site, with its pagodas, ruined walls, quaint railway station and small museum, has been the centre of the most intensive archaeological work carried out in Myanmar this century. Other Pyu cities can be seen at Halin and Beikthano. The hilltop Shwesandaw Pagoda and enormous seated Buddha are Pyay's main points of interest. The nearby Gautama Hill contains countless Buddha images in niches.
Pyay is about 300km (186mi) north-west of Yangon via a decent sealed road. The trip by boat from Bagan is pleasant, but you are advised to take your own supplies of food and water.
Hidden in the encroaching jungle, in hill country close to the Bangladesh border, Mrauk U is reached only by riverboat - well off the beaten track! It is noteworthy for its Arakanese art and architecture, and its Buddhist temple ruins. Important ruins include the 80,000 Pagoda (so named because of the 80,000 Buddah images found there) and an ordination hall. Mrauk U is accessible from Sittwe in western Myanmar.
Kengtung (Kyaingtong)
Tucked away in a far eastern corner of the Shan State is the sleepy but historic centre for the state's Khün culture. Built around a small lake and dotted with aging Buddhist temples and crumbling British colonial architecture, Kengtung is probably the most scenic town in the Shan State. Its opening to foreigners in 1993 came as a complete surprise considering that this is one of the most remote inhabited mountain valleys in Myanmar. Access is difficult and restricted to flights from Myanmar's interior or a rough overland trip from Tachilek. Apart from the temples and monasteries in the area, it's fun to check out the water buffalo market on the western outskirts of town. Held daily, it's like a used-car lot, with pedlars extolling the virtues of their animals while buyers point out their flaws. Finally a price is agreed upon, money changes hands and the new owners walk off leading their buffaloes by the nose.
Myanmar isn't exactly bursting with opportunities to get out and stretch your legs, and most lung-inflating activity is still restricted by the government.Out-of-town hiking is permitted in parts of Shan State, and you can hire guides in Kalaw and Nyaungshwe. You can make day-hikes to minority villages around Kalaw and Pindaya, do some jungle hiking on the island of Lampi Kyun or head uphill at Mt Kyaikto.
It's fine to bring your own bike into Myanmar and cycle anywhere in the unrestricted areas. The terrain is rough and unsuited to anything but the sturdiest mountain bike, and parts are very difficult to come by. You can hire Indian and Chinese bikes in Mandalay.
Diving tours are almost non-existent. About the only organised diving is around the Myeik Archipelago - liveaboard cruises are run out of Phuket and Kawthoung. Plenty of big-league diving sites have been identifitied, and business should be booming within the next couple of years.
Although Myanmar essentially remains a `fly in, fly out' destination, some road border crossings have opened recently. Foreign travellers are now able to enter Myanmar overland via Yunnan province in China, and several entry points have been opened along the Thai border. Tourists are still not permitted to arrive by ship. There are frequent flights to Yangon from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and less frequent flights from the capitals of other neighbouring countries. Departure tax is US$6.
Getting Around
Travel in Myanmar tends to be uncertain and uncomfortable. Many visitors are tempted to take internal flights because of the restricted 28-day stay regulation, but the terrible safety record and `flexible' notion of schedules of Myanma Airways and, to a lesser extent, Air Mandalay can be a deterrent. Not many visitors use buses for long-distance travelling because they tend to be extremely crowded and the government bus line is so slack it refuses to take a stab at the arrival times of its buses. Pick-up trucks with benches have recently begun to appear, and although they can be equally uncomfortable when crowded, it is possible to charter them. There is a daily express train between Yangon and Mandalay; forget the ordinary-class trains which are dirty, slow and unreliable.
The delightfully ancient buses in Yangon and Mandalay are very cheap and convenient, although you may end up hanging out the side. There are horse carts in Mandalay and trishaws just about everywhere; negotiate fares in advance.
- George Orwell's Burmese Days is an interesting, if depressing, novel set in Burma in British colonial times.
- Burma by F S V Donnison gives a concise overview of Burman history up to the 1960s.
- Outrage: Burma's Struggle for Democracy by Bertil Lintner covers the contemporary turmoil.
- Freedom from Fear and Other Writings is a collection of essays by and about Aung San Suu Kyi.
- Golden Earth by Norman Lewis is a delightful tale of a ramble around Burma in the 1950s.
- Paul Theroux's The Great Railway Bazaar includes chapters on the train from Yangon to Mandalay and Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin.
- There is a chapter on Myanmar in Pico Iyer's Video Night in Kathmandu.
Travellers' Reports
...reality check: should you visit Myanmar?...
Environment
History
Economic Profile
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveller
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
On-line Info
