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Introduction Upgrades don't replace the guides - they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in December 1998. Be aware that things keep changing - even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate prior to departure. |
In August 1998 a terrorist attack, linked to a Saudi Arabian terrorist organisation headed by Osama bin Laden, destroyed the US embassy in Nairobi, killing several hundred people and injuring many more. A new US embassy will be built in the new year, but in the meantime a temporary office is operating in the suburb of Westlands (see the Embassies section for further information).
The Kenya Tourist Board has launched a media campaign to attract tourists now the weather has returned to normal and the security situation has improved in the the post-election climate. In 1997 Kenya's tourist industry suffered a huge decline due to severe weather conditions, disease and violence; in 1996 tourism garnered US$433 million revenue, but dropped a staggering 70% to US$133 million in 1997. Torrential rains, preceeded by a harsh drought, caused widespread flooding which in turn created a new set of problems. Mombasa and the Rift Valley were practically cut off from the rest of the country and the extremely wet conditions caused a cholera and malaria epidemic.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
Once again President Moi and his KANU (Kenya African National Union) party won the national elections. The 1998 poll left KANU with a five seat majority after getting only 40% of the popular vote. The opposition claims that the election process was rigged with vote-buying and intimidation of opposition candidates. In several places intimidation tactics became so threatening that voters found it difficult to vote and the elections had to be extended by another day. Until the Kenyan opposition can unite against the ruling party in a fair election, it looks like Moi and his successor will retain power.Facts for the Visitor
VISAS & DOCUMENTS
Visas on arrival at Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta international airport cost US$30 and seven-day transit visas are US$10 and definitely not extendable. British nationals now require a visa to enter Kenya.Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world:
http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.htmlEMBASSIES
Embassies & Consulates in Nairobi
Following the bombing of the US embassy in Nairobi in August 1998, the State Department is opening a new visa service centre in Nairobi. The centre in Westlands is expected to be operating by the end of 1998 and will provide visa and passport services. A new US embassy will be built in Nairobi but a site has not yet been announced. At the moment the US embassy (Tel 02-751 613) is at the USAID Building, The Crescent, in Parklands, but only emergency consular services are available until the new visa centre opens.The Rwandan embassy has closed.
MONEY
Costs
The annual inflation rate is about 13% and since the current edition of Kenya was published prices have increased by about 20%.Exchanging Money
It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency convertor to give you the current value of the Kenyan shilling:
http://www.oanda.com
INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on Kenya, try the following links:The Daily Nation is a little more sober than other media sources under government control:
http://www.nationaudio.com/News/DailyNation/Today/index.htmlAfrica on-line has plenty of useful information about Kenya, plus other links:
http://www.Africaonline.co.ke/Gorp has the lowdown on Kenya's National Parks & Reserves:
http://www.gorp.com/gorp/location/africa/kenya/parkindx.htmBwana Zulia's Kenya Travel Guide offers general travel information:
http://www.bwanazulia.comCornell University has an information site on Kenyan human rights:
http://www.spidergraphics.com/khr/khrdef.htmlA grassroots discussion forum on Kenyan issues:
http://www.rcbowen.com/kenya/newsgroup/Getting There & Away
AIR
As of 25 March 1999 Lufthansa, the German national airline, will suspend its service – operational for 36 years – between Nairobi and Germany.
Kenya Airways has begun air services between Mumbai (Bombay)and Lagos, the capital of Nigeria. The flights go via Nairobi and will operate on Sundays and Wednesdays. The return economy fare is US$1230 plus US$11 Mumbai airport tax.Smoking is now banned on all Kenya Airways flights.
TRAIN
'The train from Kampala, Uganda, to Nairobi does not depart on Wednesdays any more and it seemed that there were no trains between the two cities on any other days. The train from Malaba, Uganda, to Nairobi still departs on Saturdays.'
Source: Anne-Mette Sylvist Pedon (May 98)Getting Around
CAR & 4WD
Taking a foreign registered vehicle into a game park now incurs a fee of KSh 200; KsH 500 if the car has more than five seats.Nairobi
Dangers & Annoyances
Many travellers are informing Lonely Planet of muggings and thefts – occuring in daylight as well as at night – on buses and in the streets. It is advisable not to wear jewellery, a watch, or to carry a day pack, camera or bum bag (fanny pack). Many hotels have safes where you can choose to leave any valuables but, regardless of where you stay, be aware that theft is a problem in Nairobi.Reports from travellers suggest that the River Road, and especially the nearby Modern Green Day & Night Bar, are not safe at present. Several travellers have been mugged in this area.
'Apparently, most petty crimes and muggings are the work of organised gangs. Some hints on how to avoid being mugged are: never enter a telephone booth if there is no queue outside it because thieves can enter and rob you; your hotel doors should be locked at all times; and ask your hotel receptionist what parts of Nairobi should be steered clear of.'
Source: Laura Knudson (Jul 98)Places to Stay
Entertainment
Cinema tickets now cost around KSh 180.Bombax Club has burned down.
Getting There & Away
Train
'The train fares on the Nairobi to Mombasa line are KSh 4200 in 1st class, KSh 2100 in 2nd class and KSh 300 in 3rd class. We travelled in 3rd class which is unusual for tourists and some of the Kenya Railways officials were surprised to see us in the carriage. This was a good chance to talk to Kenyans. At midnight some Kenya Railways officials asked us to move to 2nd class for an extra KSh 200 each, as they feared for our safety due to the high crime rate in the 3rd class carriages.'
Source: Alessandro Cannarsi, Australia (Sep 98)Getting Around
The Airport
'There is no longer a bus to or from the airport but there are plenty of taxis that cost about KSh 1000.'
Source: Debbie McLean, Australia (Apr 98)The Coast
MOMBASA
Places to Stay
'The New Palm Tree Hotel has a new number: Tel 315272.'
Source: Rebecca Casey & Liam O'Duibhir, Australia (Mar 98)'The Glory Bed & Breakfast had three of its rooms broken into and most of the belongings of its foreign occupants were stolen. The police claim that there have been many similar cases reported about the Bed & Breakfast over the last few years.'
Source: Darryn McConkey & Lori Graham, UK (May 98)Getting There & Away
'Tamana Holidays no longer exists so now you book the bus to Nairobi with Vogue Travel, Jubilee House, next to Agrip garage, Moi Ave'.
Source: Rebecca Casey & Liam O'Duibhir, Australia (Mar 98)LAMU
Places to Stay
The Full Moon Guest House has reportedly closed.Manda Island
'While we were snorkelling from a dhow just off Manda Toto Island my friend was stung on the toe by what we thought was a lionfish. She was in excruciating pain for about eight hours and couldn't walk for two days. We would advise anyone going snorkelling to wear shoes.
Source: Bryony Whiting, UK (Apr 98)The ferries between the airstrip on Manda Island and Lamu now cost KSh 70.
Western Kenya
KISUMU
'There is a large supermarket that is well stocked with almost anything you need, including western goods. It is called Nyanza Nakumat and it's on Oginga Odinga Road. Kisumu's main market is a haven for pickpockets and bag snatchers. The Hotel Mona Lisa is now little more than a brothel.'
Source: Laura Knudson (Jul 98)Places to Stay
'The double rooms in Razbi Guest House now cost KSh 300.'
Source: Andrew McNeil, Canada (Mar 98)ELDORET
Places to Stay
'Mahindi Hotel and New Miyako Hotel now charge KSh 600 per double.'
Source: Andrew McNeil, Canada (Mar 98)National Parks & Reserves
KAKAMEGA FOREST RESERVE
'It is a really good idea to hire a guide because the signs are getting hard to read or have been taken down and the trail is not easy to follow.'
Source: Laura Knudson (Jul 98)Places to Stay
'Forest Rest House is now KSh 180 per person.'
Source: Andrew McNeil, Canada (Mar 98)SAMBURU NATIONAL RESERVE
'The Samburu National Reserve is not safe for travellers due to bandit activity. Bandits have robbed whole caravans of tourist buses in broad daylight. The military is convoying all road traffic with armed guards through the region.'
Source: Allen Varney (Jun 98)Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don't stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Kenya. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a neat snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers' reports and embassy advice, check the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Destinations - Lonely Planet's On-line Mini Guide to Kenya
Scoop - Kenya News Archive
The Thorn Tree - Africa Travellers' Bulletin Board
Postcards - Travellers' Reports From Kenya
Propaganda - Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to Kenya, Kenya travel atlas, East Africa, Africa, Trekking in East Africa, Swahili phrasebook
Journeys travel literature series – Songs to an African Sunset
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