BOLIVIA

Information on the El Choro hike from La Paz to the Yungas region of Bolivia. For starters it remains largely uncommercialized. If you are planning to do the hike, take all you think you might need for the 3 to 4 days it will last. Don't worry about bringing much water as the whole route is transversed by sparkling-clean rivers. At most, you might need some purification tablets. Be prepared for an exhausting 30 minute to 1 hour climb at the beginning. If you're not accustomed to the altitude of La Paz (3,800 meters or so) be sure to bring some kind of altitude-sickness tablets.
The best place to set up camp the first day is just past the village of Chucura (beware, there are two Chucuras; the second one has a much better climate). The best place to camp the second night is one hour away from Challapampa, after a pretty exhausting 30 minute climb. It is better because it is a beautiful flat clearing with water only 5 minutes away. Just keep climbing until the trail becomes level and then walk for an additional 30 minutes. It can't be missed. Although Challapampa is the recommended camping site, it is smaller and filled with other campers. For the third night, camp at the Japanese man's property, it is beautiful and he charges nothing, although donations of canned food, money or clothes are appreciated. He has both water and firewood abundantly available. WARNING: If you are planning to head to Coroico or Yolosa cheaply, you might consider going the additional 2 hours to Chairo and camp there, instead.
Unfortunately, it has become known among the locals that hundreds of "Gringos" take the trail, so they have taken up the lucrative business of taking hikers form Chairo to Coroico for the enormous sum of 200 Bolivianos (almost 50 US dollars) per minibus. This may not seem like alot, but consider that the trip to La Paz from Coroico costs a mere 14 Bolivianos and takes 4 hours, while this stretch is at most 1 and half hours. If you can manage to hook up with 13 other travelers, it might be ok (Minibuses take 14 passengers). Finally Coroico is still an amazing place. Good climate, cheap accommodation and food and plenty to do for a little town.
James McNamee (July 98)

Copacabana The bank went bust just before Christmas, so you can't change money/traveler's cheques, except in some shops/hotels in the evening and at a bad rate.
Also the price you quote to be rowed over to Isla del Sol from Yampupata (one dollar per person) was laughed at by the locals, despite haggling we paid 20 Bolivianos for two (about five dollars).
Adam Roberts - UK (March 98)

Given what I know now, I think the best way to travel from to Chile to Bolivia would have been to go through San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) and do a 3-4 day tour through the Uyuni salt lakes (Laguna Verdo, Colcorarod, etc.) and be dropped off in Uyuni- I really would have loved to have figured that one out before heading to the Arica-La Paz pass.
Uyuni Lake tours: No matter what recommendations you have given for tour groups, it only tortured those of us who arrived mid-Feb 98. They have formed a cartel of sorts in which all the tour groups are ordered on a list and the tourists that arrive are sent sequentially to whoever is next on the list. This was SO frustrating as we REALLY wanted to go with Toñita for a variety of reasons but were sent to Paula Tours (a new and very much uncertain tour group).We could NOT sign up for a tour until Paula filled her 6 spaces OR we could wait until Toñita came up on the list a few days later. Who knows what they will do with this cartel as it certainly removes any incentive for a tour group to do a good job and hence attract future clients.
After hours of arguing/debating with the cartel leader, we were allowed to go with Toñita (who's owner is that same person!) due to special circumstances (need for vegetarian meals and to get back in time for the train to Oruno to go to carnival.) In fact, we did a 4 day trip in 3 days to facilitate this (paying the 4 day rate).
Toñita tours: Assuming folks will eventually be able to choose again (they say the cartel is only for the slow season) - Toñita's tour was incredible. The guide (Rambo) was full of knowledge, incredible food and special connections that even allowed our attendance at a llama festival at Laguna Colorado (the only group to attend).
Katrina Schneider - US (April 98)

Isla del Sol-There were reports of locals throwing stones at tourists in Feb/March time, the situation is a bit volatile because an entrepreneur from the main land is planning to build a hotel on the island and it is not too popular amongst the islanders. Presumably though, this should all blow over in due course. It is possible to get the boat to the north end, walk to the south and be picked up from there-a group of 11 of us paid about 35B each for this arrangement.
Nicky Heyward - UK (May 98)

Don Lucho Restaurante y Pena Bar-This popular place now exists in Sucre, relocated from Potosi, where it was highly recommended. Most travellers in Potosi were caught wandering around aimlessly, confused about where the "renowned" Don Lucho's could have gotten off to.
Aler Grubbs - US (June 98)

In La Paz the tourist office (see lp South America p. 255) closes for lunch 12-3.
Jacky Upson & Martin Scott, UK (Dec 98)

Train from Arica (Chile) to La Paz no longer runs.. the bus companies have apparently put it out of business with their $22 fares.
Katrina Schneider - US (April 98)

Oruro-Calama Train:The train ticket office opened at 3.30 and we queued for 1 hour. there were no 1st or 2nd class, and the train was very cramped and dirty. The locals spread out over 2 or 3 seats.
I'd suggest asking for ABC seats because they are larger (the seats are very upright and small) Also its cold at night and very hot during the day. I'd recommend taking lots of food, because the train journey takes 40 hours, not 21! It waits at Uyuni for 8 hours. Also we were all charged $18 to get out of Bolivia!
We were robbed in the early hours of the morning, so I must stress holding onto your luggage. To make it worse there is a 6 hour wait at the Chilean border, and some of the Bolivians tried to get us to carry goods across the border, so I wouldn't even leave large pieces of luggage unattended.
One more thing, the Bolivians stored their contraband in the toilets so they can't be used- which is not such a bad thing. In hindsight, we probably wouldn't have taken this Oruro-Calama train if we had more warning about the journey.
Joanna Lyden - UK (Feb 98)

The train station in Santa Cruz is completely different to how I was expecting it after reading LP warnings about buying a train ticket. I guess it must be a new one-it is very modern, the ticket office was open when we were there in the afternoon, so I don't think the opening hours are quite as erratic as previously, there was a very orderly queue, aided by several soldiers, and information desk telling you all you need to know before you queue up, and the Expresso del Oriente train to Quijjaro on the Brazilian border goes every day except Sunday. Departs at 3.45 pm, arrives San Jose at 10.30-11 pm. It costs 40B Pullman to San Jose. It costs 40 B Pullman to San Jose. In San Jose there is no computer link up so they have to wait till the train arrives before they can sell tickets for the portion between S. Jose and the border- be careful of them selling tickets that don't really exist, this is what happened to us, and I'm not really sure if it was a genuine mistake through all the confusion or ripping us off for another 55B to stand up all the way to the border. This station is chaos before and during the train's arrival with everyone scrabbling to get tickets-there isn't much to do to avoid this apart from push and shove back. Speaking good Spanish also helps. The train arrives at Quijjaro at around 11 am the next day.
Nicky Heyward - UK (May 98)