Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Socialist Republic of Vietnam
Area: 329,566 sq km (128,527 sq mi)
Population: 75 million (growth rate 2.3%)
Capital city: Hanoi (pop 1 million)
People: 85% ethnic Vietnamese, 3% ethnic Chinese, also Khmers, Chams (a remnant of the once-great Indianised Champa Kingdom) and members of some 60 ethnolinguistic groups (also known as Montagnards, `highlanders' in French)
Language: Vietnamese, Russian, French, Chinese, English and a variety of Mon-Khmer and Malayo-Polynesian local dialects
Religion: Buddhism is the principal religion but there are also sizeable Taoist, Confucian, Hoa Hao, Caodaists, Muslim and Christian minorities
Government: Communist People's Republic
President: Tran Duc Luong
Prime Minister: Phan Van Khai
Monks gather at Caodai temple (20K)
Vietnam borders Cambodia, Laos and China and stretches over 1600km (992mi) along the eastern coast of the Indochinese Peninsula. The country's two main cultivated areas are the Red River Delta (15,000 sq km/5850sq mi) in the north and the Mekong Delta (60,000 sq km/23,400sq mi) in the south. Three-quarters of the country is mountainous and hilly; the highest peak is the 3143m (10,309ft) high Fansipan in north-west Vietnam.
Vietnam is made up of equatorial lowlands, high, temperate plateaus and alpine peaks. Although Vietnam's wildlife is rich, it is in precipitous decline because of the destruction of habitats and illegal hunting. Less than 20% of the country remains forested, and what remains is under threat from slash and burn agriculture and excessive harvesting. Fauna includes elephants, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, black bear, snub-nosed monkey, crocodile and turtle.
Wrecked fishing net gets a thorough once-over (19K)
Vietnam has five national parks: Cat Ba, Ba Be Lake and Cuc Phuong national parks in the north; Bach Ma National Park in the centre; and Nam Cat Tien National Park in the south. In an attempt to prevent an ecological and hydrological catastrophe, the government has plans to set aside tens of thousands of sq km of forest and to create 87 national parks and nature reserves.
Although Vietnam lies in the intertropical zone, local conditions vary from frosty winter in the far northern hills to the year-round subequatorial warmth of the Mekong Delta. At sea level, the mean annual temperature is about 27°C (81°F) in the south, falling to about 21°C (70°F) in the far north.
From the 1st to the 6th centuries, the south of what is now Vietnam was part of the Indianised kingdom of Funan. The Hindu kingdom of Champa appeared around present-day Danang in the late 2nd century and had spread south to what is now Nha Trang by the 8th century. The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century and their 1000-year rule, marked by tenacious Vietnamese resistance and repeated rebellions, ended in 938 AD when Ngo Quyen vanquished the Chinese armies at the Bach Dang River.
During the next few centuries, Vietnam repulsed repeated invasions by China, and expanded its borders southwards from the Red River Delta, populating much of the Mekong Delta. In 1858, French and Spanish-led forces stormed Danang after several missionaries had been killed. A year later, Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) was seized. By 1867, France had conquered all of southern Vietnam, which became the French colony of Cochin-China.
Communist guerillas under the leadership of Ho Chi Minh resisted French domination. Ho Chi Minh's declaration of Vietnamese independence after WWII sparked violent confrontations with the French, culminating in the French military defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954.
The Geneva Accords of 1954 temporarily divided Vietnam into two zones (the Communist north and the anti-Communist, US-supported south). Political and ideological opposition quickly turned to armed struggle, prompting the USA and other countries to commit combat troops in 1965. The Paris Peace Agreements, signed in 1973, provided an immediate cease-fire and signalled the withdrawal of US troops. Saigon eventually capitulated to the Communist forces on 30 April 1975.
The end of the Cold War and the collapse of the USSR in 1991 caused Vietnam and Western nations to seek rapprochement. In July 1995 even intransigent America re-established diplomatic relations with Hanoi.
GDP: US$93 billion
GDP per head: US$1263
Annual growth: 9%
Inflation: 8%
Major products/industries: Rice, rubber, food processing, textiles, chemicals
Major trading partners: Eastern Europe, Japan, France
Four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or `Triple Religion').
The Vietnamese language (kinh) is a hybrid of Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements with many of its basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian, more or less in that order.
Popular artistic forms include: traditional painting produced on frame-mounted silk; an eclectic array of theatre, puppetry, music and dance; religious sculpture; and lacquerware.
Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent.
Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas on days when the moon is either full or the merest sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian food on these days. Some of the major religious festivals follow a lunar calendar. They include: Tet (late Jan-early Feb), the most important festival of the year, marking the new lunar year as well as the advent of spring; Wandering Souls Day (August), the second-largest festival of the year, when offerings of food and gifts are given to the wandering souls of the forgotten dead; Doan Ngu (June), when human effigies are burnt, becoming soldiers in the god of death's army; and Holiday of the Dead (April), which commemorates deceased relatives.
Vietnamese welcoming committee (25K)
Visas: In most cases travellers are better off getting visas arranged by travel agents rather than tackling the Vietnamese embassies themselves. A 30-day Vietnamese visa costs US$40 from an agent in Bangkok; unfortunately, visa extensions seem to be a thing of the past.
Health risks: dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid, tuberculosis and a minor threat (especially to pregnant women) of dioxins found in the defoliant Agent Orange
Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz
Weights & Measures: Metric with local variations (see the conversion table.)
Tourism: 650,000 visitors per year
Currency: dong
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$1-2
- Restaurant meal: US$4-8
- Top-end meal: US$40
- Budget room: US$8-15
- Mid-range hotel: US$35-50
- Top-end Hotel: $US150-200
Travellers staying in budget accommodation and eating in small cafes should be able to get by on around US$20 per day, plus long-distance transport costs. Those wanting to stay in mid-range hotels, eat out at moderate restaurants, charter occasional taxis and enjoy the nightlife should budget on around US$65 a day.
Until recently, many upmarket hotels insisted that you pay in US$, but now all businesses (except Vietnam Airlines) must accept payment in dong. In practice, many still display their prices in US$. It's advisable to bring US$ travellers' cheques and a little US$ cash.
There are four ways to exchange currency: at a bank; through authorised exchange bureaus; at hotel reception desks; and on the black market. The best rates are offered by the banks, but the exchange bureaus are generally more conveniently located and have longer opening hours. The black market rate is worse than the legal exchange rate, so if you're offered better rates than a bank it's bound to be some sort of scam. Visa and MasterCard credit cards are accepted in the major cities and towns popular with tourists.
It's virtually impossible to exchange foreign currency outside the major cities and tourist areas. Visitors heading off the beaten track will either need to stock up on dong or conduct a private cash transaction on the black market. It's a good idea to bring a small calculator with you for currency conversions, unless you're the kind of person who can divide or multiply numbers by 11,000 in your head.
Government-run hotels and tourist restaurants usually add a 10% service charge to bills so there's no need to tip. Leaving a small tip in other restaurants will be greatly appreciated by the staff. You should consider tipping hired drivers and guides, and it's polite to leave a small donation at the end of a visit to a pagoda. Bargaining is commonplace but should be engaged in with a smile and considered a form of social discourse rather than a matter of life and death.
There are no good or bad seasons to visit Vietnam. When one region is wet or cold, or steamy hot, there is always somewhere else that is sunny and warm. Basically, the south has two seasons: the wet (May to November, wettest from June to August) and the dry (December to April). The hottest and most humid time is from the end of February to May. The central coast is dry from June to October. The north has two seasons: cool, damp winters (November to April) and hot summers (May to October). The highland areas are significantly cooler than the lowlands, and temperatures can get down to freezing in winter. There is the possibility of typhoons between July and November, affecting the north and central areas.
Travellers should take the Tet new-year festival (late January or early February) into account when planning a trip. Travel (including international travel) becomes very difficult, hotels are full and many services close down for at least a week and possibly a lot longer.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and soul of Vietnam. It's a bustling, dynamic and industrious centre, the largest city, the economic capital and the cultural trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city's life takes place, is a myriad of shops, stalls, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns, ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.
It takes two to tango at the snake market, Ho Chi Minh City (17K)
Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be on Sunday and holiday nights. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from disco and karaoke in the larger hotels, loud Western music in bars such as the Hard Rock Cafe, dancing at the Rex Hotel or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music at the Conservatory of Music. Most forms of entertainment can be found in downtown Ho Chi Minh City along Mac Thi Buoi Street.
Budget travellers tend to congregate around Pham Ngu Lao St at the western end of District 1. Cholon has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are still rare here. Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels concentrated around Dong Khoi St at the eastern side of District 1. Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Sts form the axis of Saigon's haven of budget eateries.
Dalat
The city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region. In the past it was renowned as a cool, green city with a park-like environment. This is changing fast, as the economy booms and life speeds up. Still, Dalat is definitely worth a visit and it's a good base for trips into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed by locals the Crazy House. It's a counter-cultural gem created by artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga).
The Emperor Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and everyday objects, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll around the old French Quarter. The Valley of Love, 5km (3mi) north of the city centre, is a bizarre place where you can hire a paddle boat on the lake or a horse from one of the Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed, dressed as cowboys.
There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bike) in the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners. Further out, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).
Dalat is famous for its coffee shops, and is extremely popular with domestic tourists and honeymooners. There's a lot of accommodation but much of it is fully booked..You can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City, but the airport is 30km (19mi) from town; express buses also link the two cities.
Nha Trang
Although it could well develop into a flashy resort such as Thailand's Pattaya Beach, Nha Trang is still fairly quiet. Things are moving, though, so see it while it lasts! With very clear turquoise waters, snorkelling and diving are prime activities, and just lazing on the town beach is an experience in itself. You'll be offered everything from lunch to a manicure.
When you tire of the beach, there are some interesting sites nearby, such as the Cham Towers of Po Nagar, built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site that had been used for Hindu worship as early as the 2nd century.
Nha Trang's dry season runs from June to September, different from Ho Chi Minh City's. In the past, accommodation here tended to be fully booked much of the time, but many new hotels are being built. If you find that all the beachside hotels are full, try the ones near the railway station. Nha Trang is a major fishing port, so excellent seafood is available. You'll find the best restaurants in the central area. The exotic dragon fruit (thanh long) grows only in the Nha Trang area. It's about the size and shape of a small pineapple, but tastes something like a kiwifruit. The fruit is in season from May to September, when you can find it served as a drink.
Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City; express buses take about 12 hours. Express trains run to both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, and there are daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City.
Hué
The most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hué was the country's capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre. The remains of the huge, moated Citadel, constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Nine Holy Cannons, the Imperial Enclosure, the Palace of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km (9mi) south of Hué are the Royal Tombs. Hué has many other places of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums.
If you want to get out of the city for a swim, head 13km (8mi) north-east to Thuan An Beach, where there's a lagoon, a hotel and the possibility of sampan trips up the Perfume River. Vehicles from Hué's Dong Ba bus station run here.
There's a range of accommodation in Hué to suit most budgets, and some good restaurants. Hué has a long tradition of vegetarian food, which is prepared at pagodas for the monks. Stalls in the markets serve vegetarian food on the 1st and the 15th days of the lunar month, and there are several restaurants serving it all the time.
Hué is about 700km (434mi) from Hanoi and 1100km (682mi) from Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express train running between those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to both cities.
Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation's capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.
Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam's first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.
Budget accommodation can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between June and September, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you'll pay more for accommodation in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Hanoi has plenty of domestic and international air connections, and is connected with Ho Chi Minh City by the Reunification Express train.
Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000 islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin, is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave of three chambers. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into the sea', and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.
Rag-tag flotilla in Halong Bay (16K)
Taking a tour of the bay is the main activity here. If you want to see a lot, choose a fast boat. If you want a romantic experience but with the risk of getting hardly anywhere, look for one of the old junks. You have to charter the whole boat, but there are usually enough travellers around to make up a party and keep costs down.
The main town in the region is Halong City, which is in two halves, one on the mainland and one on a neighbouring island. Halong City West, on the island, is the more scenic. Masochists might try seeing the bay on a day-trip from Hanoi, but most travellers catch the ferry from Hanoi to Haiphong and board another ferry there to Halong City East and spend at least one night here. There are plenty of reasonable hotels, mostly in or near Halong West.
Ha Tien
Situated on the Gulf of Thailand, 8km (5mi) from the Cambodia border, the town of Ha Tien and its surrounding area are famous for their warm-water, white-sand beaches and fishing villages. The area is also noted for its seafood, black-pepper tree plantations and towering limestone formations. The rock formations around the town support a network of caves, many of which have been turned into cave temples. Ha Tien is a 10-hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City. Because of uncleared land mines and booby traps, be wary of travelling off the beaten track near the Cambodian border.
Sam Mountain
In the Mekong Delta, 3km (2mi) from the riverine commercial centre of Chau Doc and not far from the Cambodian border, this area is known for its dozens of pagodas and cave temples. Favoured by ethnic-Chinese pilgrims and tourists, the shrines feature tombs and fine examples of traditional Vietnamese design and artisanship.
Central Highlands
The western region of the Central Highlands area, along the border with Cambodia and Laos, still sees few visitors. The region's varied agriculture and the presence of up to 31 distinct ethnic groups make it a fascinating destination. Towns such as Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku and Kontum are peopled by ethnic minority groups, while Tua and Ban Don society is matrilineal and matrilocal.
Hoi An
An important river port 30km (19mi) south of Danang, Hoi An is rich in history and has a unique character. It was a contemporary of Macau, attracting Dutch, Portuguese and Japanese trading vessels, and it retains the feel of centuries past. Its magnificent collection of almost 850 older structures and intact streetscapes just beg to be explored. They include merchants' homes, pagodas, public buildings and a whole city block of colonnaded French buildings.
Sapa
Located at an altitude of 1600m (6112ft) in the remote North-Western Highlands, Sapa entrances most visitors. It was built as a hill station for the French in 1922, but went into a long decline from which it has only recently recovered. More and more travellers are braving the bad roads and flocking here for the climate (cold in winter) and to visit the hill tribes (mostly Hmong, Dao and Kinh people) who live in the area. The Saturday market is the best place to buy handicrafts. Accommodation can be tight, especially on weekends when tour parties visit. Just 9km (5.5mi) from Sapa is Fansipan (3143m/10,309ft), which is Vietnam's highest mountain. A hike to the top and back takes about four days, and you'll need a guide and decent equipment, as it is usually wet and cold. You can get to within 30km (19mi) of Sapa by train from Hanoi. Once you reach Lao Cai, you'll need to transfer to a local bus.
Dien Bien Phu
Dien Bien Phu, in the heart-shaped Muong Thanh Valley near the Lao border, is in one of the remotest parts of Vietnam. The valley is surrounded by steep heavily forested hills and the area is inhabited by hill tribes, notably the Tai and Hmong. Dien Bien Phu was the site of that rarest of military events, a battle that can be called truly decisive. It was here in 1954 that Viet Minh forces overran the beleaguered French garrison after a 57-day siege, forcing the French government to abandon its attempts to re-establish colonial control of Indochina. The site of the battle is marked by a small museum, which eloquently tells the story of Vietnamese determination to be rid of the colonial forces.
You can fly to Dien Bien Phu from Hanoi, but getting to the town overland is half the fun since the surrounding mountains are so beautiful. Buses are generally too crowded to appreciate the splendid scenery so do yourself a favour and hire a jeep. It's a two-day, 420km (260mi) trip from Hanoi, so count on hiring a jeep for five days, which should cost around US$400.
National Parks
Cuc Phuong, 140km (87mi) from Hanoi, preserves 222 sq km (87 sq mi) of primary tropical forest. It's home to an amazing variety of wildlife, with animals such as the yellow macaque and the spotted deer, and has many grottoes, one of which has yielded prehistoric stone tools. More beautiful however is Cat Ba Island, 30km (19mi) east of Haiphong. Its diverse ecosystems include tropical evergreen forests, freshwater swamp forests, coastal mangroves, freshwater lakes and waterfalls, grottoes, caves, sandy beaches and offshore coral reefs. It's home to monkeys, boars, deer, squirrels and hedgehogs, and its offshore waters are also heavily populated by fish, molluscs, arthropods, seals and dolphins. It is hoped that plans to designate massive areas of land as national parks go ahead.
Vietnam has 3260km (2021mi) of coastline, and you can hire snorkelling and diving gear at most beach resorts. The most popular beaches are Vung Tau, just north of the Mekong Delta, and Nha Trang, near Dalat. There is good hiking, horse riding and cycling in the beautiful countryside around Dalat. Vietnam is a favourite place with long-distance cyclists because much of the country is flat and the shortage of vehicles makes for light traffic. Groups of Western cyclists have begun touring, especially around the Mekong Delta.
Spelunkers should head for the spectacular Pong Nha river caves, north-west of Dong Hoi. Those interested in the Vietnam War can walk part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a series of roads, trails and paths used as supply routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. It ran from North Vietnam southward through the Truong Son Mountains and into western Laos. Those with a 4WD can drive a 60km (37mi) stretch between Aluoi and Hue. The network of tunnels at Cu Chi (35km (22mi) from Saigon) and Vinh Moc (near the old border between North and South Vietnam) enable visitors to experience the claustrophobic life led by villagers and guerrillas during the war.
Off the record: Cu Chi tunnels
Bangkok, only 80 minutes flying time from Ho Chi Minh City, is the main port of embarkation for air travel to Vietnam, followed closely by Hong Kong. There are also direct Bangkok-Hanoi flights. Vietnam Air, the government airline, still has a stranglehold on flights into the country, although other airlines are allowed some access. Consequently, there aren't many bargain deals available. The departure tax on international flights is US$8 from Ho Chi Minh City and US$7 from Hanoi.
It's become very popular to cross the border at Dong Dang, 20km (12mi) north of Lang Son in north-east Vietnam, to get to/from Nanning in China's Guangxi Province. The other popular border crossing is at Lao Cai in north-west Vietnam, which lies on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. A new Hanoi-Beijing passenger train began operating in February 1996. Buses run daily between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City via the Moc Bai border checkpoint. It's possible to enter Laos from Lao Bao in north-central Vietnam. Note that Vietnamese visas specify your departure point from the country. If you want to change this you'll have to pay a visit to the immigration police or the Foreign Ministry.
Vietnam Airlines has a near-monopoly on domestic flights, which are relatively expensive. Thanks to a new computerised booking system, buying a ticket is fairly painless, although you will have to show your visa and/or passport. It's usually faster to buy a ticket from an airline office rather than a travel agent. The departure tax on domestic flights is d15,000.
Ramshackle, slow and hugely overcrowded buses run just about everywhere in the country, at rock-bottom fares. Bus travel is definitely uncomfortable and frustrating, but if you treat it as a social function rather than a means of getting from A to B, you should survive with your sanity intact. Most long-distance buses leave early in the morning, so it's a good idea to buy your ticket the night before. There are express buses, but few are really fast. Count on an average speed of 50kmh (31mph) for a genuine express bus, 35kmh (22mph) for a so-called express bus and 25kmh (15mph) for an ordinary bus.
A harbourmaster's nightmare at Mytho on the Mekong Delta (23K)
Public minibuses suffer the same drawbacks as public buses. The alternative, used by many foreigners, is to charter a minibus. They cost more but they are much more comfortable. You'll find people taking bookings in popular tourist destinations. Budget hotels and cafes are the best places to start looking.
Train travel can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom. There are several types of train; you definitely don't want a crowded, snail-paced local train. Petty theft can be a problem on trains, especially in budget class. Children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you're advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place.
Hire cars and drivers are available at reasonable prices. You'll still be stopped by the police to pay all sorts of 'fines', but at least you'll have a local with you to do the negotiating. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road (most of the time).
You can hire a motorcycle to drive yourself if you have an International Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. The anarchic traffic is a big hazard, as is the possibility of scams. There have been reports of the renter stealing the bike (the renter has a key to the lock) and charging the customer an outrageous sum as compensation. If you have left your passport as security you won't have much choice but to pay up.
Travelling through Vietnam by bicycle is worth considering, though the traffic is still a hazard on highways without wide shoulders. Trains and buses will carry your bike when you want a break.
Other than a few ancient and infrequent buses, local transport is by taxi (some metered, some not) or cyclo (pedal-powered conveyances that are cheap and plentiful). The Vietnamese government has announced plans to phase out cyclos in a cosmetic bid to improve Vietnam's image. If you're in a hurry and have nerves of steel, try flagging down any passing motorbike. Many people will be happy to give you a lift for a fee a little higher than the equivalent cyclo fare.
- Vietnam: A History by Stanley Kurnow is a very readable account of Vietnam's history from prehistoric times until the fall of Saigon.
- Dispatches by Michael Herr takes a cold hard look at the Vietnam War through the eyes of an American correspondent.
- A Bright Shining Lie and Two Cities: Hanoi and Saigon by Neil Sheehan cover the war and the personalities of Vietnam's two major centres.
- John Nichols' gruesome American Blood does for the Vet homecoming novel what American Psycho did for Hugo Boss suits.
- Vietnamerica by Thomas Bass brings the Vietnam War home to America in a more poignant and personal form, following the fortunes of the children fathered by American soldiers in Vietnam.
- The Quiet American by Graham Greene (1954) is set during the last days of French rule and is probably the most famous Western work of fiction on Vietnam.
- The Lover by Marguerite Duras provides a French perspective on colonial life in Vietnam.
- The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux includes several chapters on the Trans-Vietnam Railway.
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