DESTINATION PARIS

Paris has long inspired opinionated outbursts from delusional to denouncing, but on one matter travellers remain in agreement: it's among the most stimulating cities in the world. Paris assaults all the senses, demanding to be seen, heard, touched, tasted and smelt. From luminescent landmarks to fresh poodle droppings on the pavement, the city is everything it should be - the very essence of all things French. If you come here expecting all you've heard to be true, you won't leave disappointed.

Map of Paris (22K)

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  • France

  • Facts at a Glance
    History
    When to Go
    Orientation
    Attractions
    Off the Beaten Track
    Activities
    Events
    Getting There & Away
    Getting Around
    Recommended Reading
    Lonely Planet Guides
    Travellers' Reports on France
    On-line Info


    Facts at a Glance

    Area: 105 sq km (41 sq mi)
    Population: 2.15 million in the city; 10.5 million in the Île de France area
    Elevation: 27m (90ft)
    Country: France
    Time Zone: GMT/UTC plus 1 hour
    Telephone area code: 1


    History

    Paris was founded towards the end of the 3rd century BC on what is now the Île de la Cité by a tribe of Celtic Gauls known as the Parisii. Centuries of conflict between the Gauls and Romans ended in 52 BC, when Julius Caesar's legions took control of the territory and the settlement became a Roman town. Christianity was introduced in the 2nd century AD, and the Roman party was finally crashed in the 5th century by the arrival of the Franks. In 508 AD, Frankish king Clovis I united Gaul as a kingdom and made Paris his capital, naming it after the original Parisii tribe.

    Paris prospered during the Middle Ages: In the 12th century, construction began on the cathedral of Notre Dame (work continued for nearly 200 years), while the Marais area north of the Seine was drained and settled to become what's known today as the Right Bank. The Sorbonne opened its doors in 1253, the beautiful Sainte Chapelle was consecrated in 1248 and the Louvre got its start as a riverside fortress around 1200.

    Scandinavian Vikings (also known as Norsemen, or Normans) began raiding France's western coast in the 9th century; after three centuries of conflict, they started to push toward Paris. These conflicts gave birth to the Hundred Years War between Norman England and Paris' Capetian dynasty, eventually resulting in the French defeat at Agincourt in 1415 and English control of Paris in 1420. In 1429, a 17-year-old stripling called Jean d'Arc re-rallied the French troops to defeat the English at Orléans, and, with the exception of Calais, the English were expelled from France in 1453.

    Embracing the trappings of the Italian Renaissance helped Paris get back on its feet at the end of the 1400s, and many of the city's signature buildings and monuments sprang up during the period. Still, by the late 16th century Paris was again up in arms, this time in the name of religion. Clashes between the Huguenots (French Protestants supported by England), the Catholic League and the Catholic monarchy sank to their lowest levels in 1572 with the St Bartholomew's Day massacre of 3000 Huguenots in town to celebrate the wedding of Henri of Navarre (later, King Henri IV).

    Louis XIV, known as le Roi Soleil (the Sun King), ascended to the throne in 1643 at the tender age of five and held the crown until 1715. During his reign, he nearly bankrupted the national treasury with prolonged bouts of battling and building. His most tangible legacy is the palace at Versailles, 23km (15mi) south-west of Paris. Louis was succeeded by Louis XV and then Louis XVI. The excesses of the latter and his capricious queen, Marie-Antoinette, led to an uprising of Parisians on 14 July 1789 and the storming of the Bastille prison - the act that kick-started the French Revolution.

    The populist ideals of the revolution's early stages quickly gave way to the 17,000 head-loppings of the Reign of Terror, wherein even a few of the original 'patriots' got cozy with Madame la Guillotine. The unstable post-revolution government was consolidated in 1799 under a young Corsican general, Napoleon Bonaparte, who adopted the title First Consul. In 1804, the Pope crowned him Emperor of the French, and Napoleon proceeded to sweep most of Europe under his wing. Napoleon's hunger for conquest led to his defeat, first in Russia in 1812 and later at Belgium's Waterloo in 1815. His legacy in modern France includes the national legal code, which bears his name, and monuments such as the massive neoclassical Arc de Triomphe.

    Following Napoleon's exile, France faltered under a string of mostly inept rulers until a coup d'état in 1851 brought a new emperor, Napoleon III, to power. In 17 years, he oversaw the construction of a flashy new Paris, with wide boulevards, sculptured parks and - not insignificantly - a modern sewer system. Like his namesake uncle, however, this Napoleon and his penchant for pugnacity led to a costly and eventually unsuccessful war, this time with the Prussians in 1870. When news of their emperor's capture by the enemy reached Paris, the masses took to the streets, demanding that a republic be created.

    Despite its bloody beginnings, the Third Republic ushered in the glittering belle époque (beautiful age), with its famed Art Nouveau architecture and a barrage of advances in the arts and sciences. By the 1920s and 1930s, Paris had become a worldwide centre for the artistic avant-garde and had entrenched its reputation among freethinking intellectuals. The excess of that era was cut short by the Nazi occupation of 1940, and Paris remained under Germany's thumb until 25 August 1944. (The Allied forces that retook the city were spearheaded by Free French units in order to give the French the honour of liberating their capital.) After the war, Paris regained its position as a creative hotbed and nurtured a revitalised liberalism that reached its crescendo in the student-led 'Spring Uprising' of 1968, wherein some 9 million people joined in a paralyzing general strike in opposition to the Vietnam War.

    During the 1980s, President François Mitterand initiated the futuristic grands projets, a series of costly building projects that garnered widespread approval even when the results were popular failures. Responses to the flashier examples, like the Centre Pompidou and the glass pyramids in the Louvre, have ranged from appalled 'mon Dieux' to absolute doting rapture; if nothing else, the projets invigorated dialogue about the Parisian aesthetic.

    In recent years, the city dominated the international spotlight with two front-page events: the rumour-plagued auto-accident death of Diana, Princess of Wales, in August 1997, and France's first-ever World Cup victory (3-0 over the odds-on favourite, Brazil) in July 1998. Both events brought Parisians out into the streets by the thousands and international press corps in droves.


    When to Go

    Paris is at its best during the temperate spring months (March to May), with autumn coming in a close second. In winter, there are all sorts of cultural events to tempt the visitor, but school holidays can clog the streets with the little folk. August is usually hot and sticky, and it's also when many Parisians take their yearly vacations, so businesses are likely to be closed.


    Orientation

    Both the capital of the nation and of the historic Île de France region, Paris is located in northern central France, 265km (165mi) south-west of Brussels, 295km (185mi) south-west of Luxembourg and 510km (315mi) west of Stuttgart. The city centre - known as Intra-Muros, or within the walls - is bisected by the River Seine. The area north of the river, the Rive Droite (Right Bank), includes the tree-lined Avenue des Champs-Élysées, running west to the Arc de Triomphe. East of the avenue is the massive Musée du Louvre, the Centre Georges Pompidou and a lively district of museums, shops, markets and restaurants. Immediately south of the Pompidou Centre on the Île de la Cité is the world-famous hunchback hangout, Notre Dame. The area south of the river, the Rive Gauche (Left Bank), is home to the city's most prominent landmark, the Eiffel Tower. To the east, in the Saint Germain de Prés and Montparnasse districts, Paris' famous academic, artistic and intellectual milieus waft in and out of focus through a haze of Gitanes smoke.


    Attractions

    Musée du Louvre

    This enormous building, constructed around 1200 as a fortress and rebuilt in the mid-16th century for use as a royal palace, began its career as a public museum in 1793. As part of Mitterand's grands projets in the 1980s, the Louvre was revamped with the addition of a 21m (67ft) glass pyramid entrance. Initially deemed a failure, the new design has since won over those who regard consistency as inexcusably boring. Vast scrums of people puff and pant through the rooms full of paintings, sculptures and antiquities, including the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Winged Victory (which looks like it's been dropped and put back together). If the clamour becomes unbearable, your best bet is to pick a period or section of the Louvre and pretend that the rest is somewhere across town.


    The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel & IM Pei's glass pyramid (24K)

    Centre Georges Pompidou

    The Centre Georges Pompidou, displaying and promoting modern and contemporary art, is far and away the most visited sight in Paris. Built between 1972 and 1977, the hi-tech though daffy design has recently begun to age, prompting face-lifts and closures of many parts of the centre. Woven into this mêlée of renovation are several good (though pricey) galleries plus a free, three-tiered library with over 2000 periodicals, including English-language newspapers and magazines from around the world. A square just to the west attracts street musicians, Marcel Marceau impersonators and lots of unsavoury types selling drugs or picking pockets.


    Two victims of cultural overdose in the Jardin des Tuileries (21K)

    Notre Dame

    The city's cathedral ranks as one of the greatest achievements of Gothic architecture. Notre Dame was begun in 1163 and completed around 1345; the massive interior can accommodate over 6000 worshippers. Although Notre Dame is known for its sublime balance, there are all sorts of minor anomalies as the French love nothing better than to mess with things. These include the differently shaped three main entrances, which have statues that were once coloured to make them more effective as Bible lessons for the hoi polloi. The interior is dominated by spectacular and enormous rose windows, and a 7800-pipe organ that was recently restored but has not been working properly since. From the base of the north tower, visitors with ramrod straight spines can climb to the top of the west façade and savour the views over many of the cathedral's most ferocious-looking gargoyles, not to mention a good part of Paris. Under the square in front of the cathedral, an archaeological crypt displays in situ the remains of structures from the Gallo-Roman and later periods.


    Notre Dame gargoyle keeps watch on the city's streets (19K)

    Sainte Chapelle

    Lying inside the Palais de Justice (law courts), Sainte Chapelle was consecrated in 1248 and built to house what was reputedly Jesus' crown of thorns and other relics purchased by King Louis IX earlier in the 13th century. The gem-like chapel, illuminated by a veritable curtain of 13th-century stained glass (the oldest and finest in Paris), is best viewed from the law courts' main entrance - a magnificently gilded, 18th-century gate. Once past the airport-like security, you can wander around the long hallways of the Palais de Justice and, if you can find a court in session, observe the proceedings. Civil cases are heard in the morning, while criminal trials - usually reserved for larceny or that French speciality crimes passionnel - begin after lunch.


    Notre Dame's angels admire a gentleman who has lost his head (25K)

    Musée d'Orsay

    Spectacularly housed in a former railway station built in 1900, the Musée d'Orsay was reinaugurated in its present form in 1986. Inside is a trove of artistic treasures produced between 1848 and 1914, including the fruits of the Impressionists and Postimpressionists. Most of their paintings and sculptures are found on the ground floor and the skylight-lit upper level, while the middle level has some magnificent rooms showcasing the Art-Nouveau movement. Nearby, the Musée Rodin displays the vital bronze and marble sculptures by Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel, including casts of some of Rodin's most celebrated works. There's a shady sculpture garden out the back, one of Paris' treasured islands of calm.


    Eiffel Tower

    This towering edifice was built for the World Fair of 1889, held to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution. Named after its designer, Gustave Eiffel, it stands 320m (1050ft) high and held the record as the world's tallest structure until 1930. Initially opposed by the city's artistic and literary elite - who were only affirming their right to disagree with everything - the tower was almost torn down in 1909. Salvation came when it proved an ideal platform for the antennas needed for the new science of radiotelegraphy. When you're done peering upwards through the girders, you can visit any of the three public levels, which can be accessed by lift or stairs. Just south-east of the tower is a grassy expanse that was once the site of the world's first balloon flights and is now used by teens as a skateboarding arena or by activists bad-mouthing Chirac.


    The graceful base of the Eiffel Tower (22K)

    Avenue des Champs-Élysées

    A popular promenade for the ostentatious aristos of old, the Avenue des Champs-Élysées has long symbolised the style and joie de vivre of Paris. Encroaching fast-food joints, car showrooms and cinemas have somewhat dulled the sheen, but the 2km (1mi) long, 70m (235ft) wide stretch is still an ideal place for evening walks and relishing the food at overpriced restaurants.


    Cimetière du Père Lachaise

    Established in 1805, this is the most visited necropolis in the world. Within the manicured, evergreen enclosure are the tombs of over one million people including such luminaries as the composer Chopin; the writers Molière, Apollinaire, Oscar Wilde, Balzac, Marcel Proust and Gertrude Stein; the artists David, Delacroix, Pissarro, Seurat and Modigliani; the actors Sarah Bernhardt, Simone Signoret and Yves Montand; the singer Édith Piaf; and the dancer Isadora Duncan. The most visited tomb, however, is that of The Doors lead singer, Jim Morrison, who died in Paris in 1971. One hundred years earlier, the cemetery was the site of a fierce battle between Communard insurgents and government troops. The rebels were eventually rounded up against a wall and shot, and were buried where they fell in a mass grave.


    Place des Vosges

    In 1605, King Henri IV decided to turn the Marais district into Paris' most snobbish residential district. The result of this initiative was Place des Vosges, a square ensemble of 36 symmetrical houses with ground-floor arcades, steep slate roofs, large dormer windows and creeper-covered walls. Only the earliest houses were built of brick; to save time, the rest were given timber frames and faced with plaster, later painted to resemble brick. Duels, fought with strictly observed formality, were once staged in the elegant park in the middle. From 1832-48 Victor Hugo lived at a house at No 6, which has now been turned into a municipal museum. Today, the arcades around the place are occupied by expensive galleries and shops, and cafes filled with people drinking little cups of coffee and air-kissing immaculate passersby.


    The ornate entrance to the Bastille Metro Station (22K)

    Catacombes

    In 1785, it was decided to solve the hygienic and aesthetic problems posed by the city's overflowing cemeteries by exhuming the bones and storing them in the tunnels of three disused quarries. One ossuary so created is the Catacombes, without a doubt Paris' most viscerally disturbing tourist site. After descending 20m (65ft) below street level, visitors can shudder through corridors filled with intermingled rib cages, bones and skulls that have been neatly stacked along the walls. People over 60 can get in for free, which says a lot about the French sense of humour. The tunnels, which were used by the Résistance during WWII as a headquarters, are south of the Seine.


    Bois de Boulogne

    The modestly sized Bois de Boulogne, on the western edge of the city, is endowed with forested areas, meandering paths, belle époque cafes and little wells of naughtiness. Each night, pockets of the Bois de Boulogne are taken over by prostitutes and lurkers with predacious sexual tastes. In recent years, the police have cracked down on the area's sex trade, but locals still advise against walking through the area alone at night.


    Off the Beaten Track

    Outer Île de France

    The relatively small region surrounding Paris - known as the Île de France (Island of France) - was where the kingdom of France began its 12th century expansion. Today, it's a popular day-trip destination for Parisians and Paris-based visitors. Among the region's many attractions are woodlands ideal for hiking, skyscrapered districts endowed with sleekly functional architecture, the much-maligned EuroDisney, elegant historical towns and Versailles, the country's former political capital and seat of the royal court. The latter is the site of the Château de Versailles, the grandest and most famous palace in France. Built in the mid-1600s during the reign of Louis XIV, the chateau is a keen reminder of just how much one massive ego and a nation's wealth could buy in days of old (eat your heart out, Bill Gates). Apart from grand halls, bedchambers, gardens, ponds and fountains too elaborate to discuss, there's also a 75m (250ft) Hall of Mirrors, where nobles dressed like ninnies could watch each other dancing.


    Canal Saint Martin

    The little-touristed Saint Martin canal, running through the north-eastern districts of the Right Bank, is one of Paris' hidden delights. The 5km (3mi) waterway, parts of which are higher than the surrounding land, was built in 1806 to link the Seine with the much longer Canal de l'Ourcq. Its shaded towpaths - specked with sunlight filtering through the plane trees - are a wonderful place for a romantic stroll or bike ride past locks, metal bridges and unassuming but well turned-out Parisian neighbourhoods.


    Égouts de Paris

    A city cannot grow, prosper and become truly great unless some way is found to deal with its odiferous output of bodily wastes. Along the Seine, east of the Eiffel Tower, Paris has a unique working museum devoted to such an answer: sewerage. The entrance to the museum is a rectangular maintenance hole that leads into 480m (1575ft) of raw sewerage tunnels, replete with all sorts of vaguely familiar objects flowing beneath your feet.


    Activities

    Paris' weekly entertainment pamphlets, Pariscope and L'Officiel des Spectacles, list up-to-date information in French on every imaginable outdoor activity. Look for listings on randonnées pédestres (hiking in groups), cyclisme (biking), escalade (rock climbing), plus parachuting, canoeing, squash, tennis and swimming, among others. Among uniquely Parisian activities, it's hard to beat drifting lazily down the Seine (or the Marne, the Oise or any of the city's canals) in a canal boat. Rentals are available year round.


    Events

    Most museums and shops are closed on France's jours fériés (public holidays). When a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, expect to see a lot of shuttered storefronts on that Monday or Friday as well. The doors of banks are good places to check for announcements of long holiday weekends.

    France's national day, 14 July, commemorates the 1789 storming of the Bastille prison, the event that kicked off the French Revolution. Across the country, the holiday is celebrated with serious abandon, especially in Paris, where the day ends with a massive fireworks display and throngs of people in the streets.

    Public Holidays:
    1 January - New Year's Day
    late March or April - Easter Sunday, Easter Monday
    1 May - May Day
    8 May - Victory Day
    May (40th day after Easter) - Ascension Day
    7th Sunday after Easter - Pentecost or Whit Sunday
    8th Monday after Easter - Whit Monday
    14 July - Bastille Day
    15 August - Assumption Day
    1 November - All Saints' Day
    11 November - Armistice Day
    25 December - Christmas Day


    Getting There & Away

    Paris has two airports, Aéroport d'Orly, 16km (10mi) south of central Paris, and Aéroport Charles de Gaulle, 27km (17mi) to the north. Flights run daily to all parts of the country, but the high-speed TGV (train à grande vitesse) train services are usually more convenient. De Gaulle is a major international hub, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding a flight, regardless of where you're flying.

    There are six major train stations in Paris, each of which handles traffic to different parts of France and the rest of Europe. The most spectacular route is the Channel Tunnel (or Chunnel) between London (via Folkestone) and Paris (via Calais), a trip that takes only three hours. TGV services also link Paris with Amsterdam and Brussels.

    Euroline buses run from Paris to cities all over Europe. Hoverspeed runs bus-boat-bus combos from London, but with the convenience of the Channel Tunnel routes, you'd have to be pretty hard pressed to consider it. There are also ferries and hovercraft between Ireland and France.


    Getting Around

    There are dozens of ways to get to and from Paris' airports, from rapidfire shuttle trains to the standard assortment of pokey public buses, private shuttles and taxis. There's even a bus that runs solely between the two airports. Say what you will about driving around Paris, the city's public transportation is world class.

    The most charming of Paris' public transport options, the underground Métropolitain (and its sister system, the RER) is a simply massive network. No matter where you are, chances are there's a metro station within a few blocks. Likewise, the public bus system runs everywhere, but its hours are laughable and don't even try to hop aboard on Sunday or a holiday. The Noctambus network takes over in the heavily trafficked areas once both the underground and the day buses go to sleep.

    In case you hadn't guessed it, driving around Paris is a job best reserved for the terminally aggressive - if you don't have lots of time to kill, you're better off taking public transport. Likewise with bicycles: Parisians don't much like to share the road, and bikes aren't allowed on the metro. There are river shuttles along the Seine, but these cater more to tourists' gawking than to commuters.


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