FRANCE

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

It may be interesting to note that Australians can get their Schengen visa at the French embassy in Budapest (Hungary) for 5610 forint (about ú16). In London it costs ú27.
Nicholas Weaver (Apr 98)

We have been trying to get a visa for France from the consulate in Zurich - no visa unless you have a return ticket back to Australia. No amount of pleading got around this "rule" (though we haven't tried any other embassies).
Jamie Brookes & Andy Semmler (Mar 98)

If you are trying to get a French visa in London (Sth Kensington) get there very early (at least 1-2 hours before opening) as they only process about 400 people at each opening. You need passports, proof of money, tickets, accommodation, passport photos, cash, and a cool temper. Other paperwork ie. letter from uni saying you will return, back statements, French relations is helpful.

Most people in Paris speak some english, they will greet you in french then switch to english after hearing your french.

If you have never been to Paris, like us, get a Paris visite' for the metro and a carte' musee. You can go anywhere and see just about everything with these two travel aids. Carte' musee allows you to move to the head of the line, don't be timid.

Paris is a huge city. Make sure you take some comfortable shoes, an explorer like attitude, plenty of money (atm cards work everywhere, and you will have a memorable trip.
George Ozimok (Apr 99)

The price of coffee in the outer and glassed parts of the coffee houses (generally, areas with a view of the street) if 50-100% higher than inside. Jan Bohuslav, USA (March 99) Grenoble : In summer the VFD bus line office in Place Victor Hugo runs a series of cheap to middle range bus trip deals to surrounding areas that are good value. They are also used as the inter-town bus links by the locals so you see a lot of the "off the AutoRoute" places. Also, it is generally a better place to get bus information than the Gare Routiere.

Vienne, which was the old capital of Burgundy, is definitely worth a day trip. I have found many French people from Lyon dropping in there but very few foreigners. It is very pretty, situated on the river Rhone with a nice main street with many restaurants and cafes with tables set up outside under an avenue of mature plain trees.

It has some of the most impressive preserved Roman buildings in France including a complete Amphitheatre, but the most amazing place is the "musee Gallo-Romain" which is a very new high tech glass and stainless steel museum set up on the sight of current excavations of the Roman town..
Roderick White, France (Oct 98)

Left luggage is back in Paris again - at least in Gare du Nord. The police have installed an x-ray machine to scan all bags before you are allowed to store your luggage. Be prepared for the long queue though. If you cannot afford the cash for storing your luggage, don't fret. You can store you luggage free at the Louvre Museum during the period the museum is opened.

A note of caution for unattended baggage at the Charles du Gaulle Airport - all unattended baggage will be destroyed immediately for security reasons.
Thng Hui Hong, Singapore (Sept 98)

Those with young children should be aware of SNCF's new rail pass. On our trip to France this summer we were able to make out very well the Carte Enfant plus (Carte Enfant +). This pass costs 350 francs and is valid anywhere in France except for the Paris Metro trains. It is also valid for one-way international journeys beginning in France.

The pass must be held by a child under the age of 12. It gives the child and up to four people travelling with that child, 50% off fares during "blue" periods and 25% off during "white (busy) periods. The pass is valid for an entire year.

The card must be purchased inside France at a rail station. You need to supply a 2.5 X 2.5 cm passport photo of the child. Always present the card when purchasing tickets and show it to conductors on the train when they check tickets. We made sure that we only travelled during "blue" periods and got our money back on our first journey. For those living in France, or travelling for long periods of time, this is a magnificent deal.
John S. Sparks, USA (Sept 98)

I am a great lover of impressionist art and would recommend the Musee D'Orsay well before the Louvre. The Louvre has many artefacts and French religious art - so if that is your cup of tea, then go there. However, the Musee D'Orsay offers a rich tapestry of awesome works, a vast collection of countless, magnificent pieces from Van Gogh to Sisley, Monet and Turner to Picasso. I was breathtaken at every turn and have easily gone home, packed my things and moved in.
Tania (Sept 98)

Everybody seems to know that Lascaux cave, with its great paleolithic paintings, is closed to the public. But if you want to see genuine, paleolithic cave art, Southwest France still has some caves open. Four of our favourites are Rouffignac and Font de Gaume, near Les Eyzies, Dordogne; and Peche Merle and Cougnac, not too far from Cahors, Lot. They're all open from Easter to All Saints Day (Halloween). Don't worry about ruining the art you're seeing - these caves are closely monitored for possible damage. It's wise to show up in the morning, because the number of visitors per day is strictly limited.
Martha Bays (Aug 98)

Paris - Anyone visiting or staying in the Marais should consider wandering up to Oberkampf/ Mt Nilmontant to soak up a bit of trendiness mixed with a traditional immigrant neighbourhood. To get there walk north up Rue Veille due Temple and turn right onto Rue Bretagne. The markets and shops in this area evoke a palpable feeling of community and neighbourhood. There are great shops offering a variety of fruit, vegetables, chesses, wines and prepared food. After dinner it may be interesting to explore the many cafes to be found in the area. This area has a great ambience and offers the possibility of getting slightly off the beaten path - find Rue Bretagne on map 8 of the current LP guide to France.
Patrice Milewski (Aug 98)

I have a few good tips for travellers visiting Monaco during June - August. If you are into cultural events, there are a series of concerts held in the court of the Prince Palace from early July until the first week of August. Usually it takes place every Wednesday and Sunday. The only hassle is that men are required to wear a jacket and a tie.

There is a summer outdoor cinema showing a different movie everyday in English. It is located right next to the entrance to the summer Sporting club on blvd Princesse Grace. There is also a vast parking area nearby reserved for the cinema during the showing hours.
Josephine Hsieh, Monaco (Aug 98)

The Paris Visite cards are a bit of a rip off. If you just ask for a metro pass for a day/3 days/week, this is what you will be sold. Instead, ask in French for a Mobilis ticket for Zones one and two only (this is all Paris except suburbs and airports). They cost 30F a day - but can be bought for more than one day at a time. They are definitely cheaper than the black Paris Visite cards.
Richard Colebourn (July 98)

I came to France with a France Railpass but unfortunately, it wasn't to my advantage. If you're under 26 and you don't plan to make several marathon train journeys from one end of France to the other, it's cheaper to buy the Decouvert 12-25 tickets. You can buy them at the train station ticket counter and you get an immediate 25% discount form the standard fare. The one problem is that it works on a quote system, so if you travel on a busy day, there might not be Decouvert 12-25 seats available. If you're in a pinch, ask if you can get an unreserved ticket. Then you can at least ride in the bar car. It's not the most comfortable place to sit, but at least you'll get to where you need to go. It's cheaper to BYOB and though it's not exactly allowed, I've found that you can get away with almost anything in France if you butter up the authorities enough.
David Morgan (July 98)

There's an American express office in Aix-en-Provence at 15, cours Mirabeau (postcode 13100). And, unlike most businesses in france, it's actually open on Sundays, at least in summer, from 4 pm to 7 pm.

If you're interested in renting an apartment in Aix, there's a big bulletin board downstairs in the Tourist Office with loads of listings that are changed every Tuesday. There is also a bulletin board of listings at the Hotel de Ville when the students come back after summer holidays.

I've also found a much cheaper way to make international calls than any of the ways suggested in the LP. I call the US for $0.29 a minute from my apartment in Aix using a callback service, and the service doesn't cost me a penny. When I'm away form home, I use a roving callback service, which gives me the same rate for calls, but the service costs a whopping $1 per month. You can use it form a public phone.

The way it works is this: I call a number in the US and let it ring once. Then I hang up. Since the call was never connected, I don't get charged not even for a local call. A computer on the other end traces my call and calls me back, giving me a US dial tone and US rates - the cheapest in the world. In essence, you pay for two calls. US to France costs $.19 a minute, then a domestic US long-distance call costs $.10 a minute. Not only that but you get discounts for referrals and you can bill your charges directly to a credit or check card. It's the best deal going.
David Morgan (July 98)

To my disappointment, the Musee National d'Art Moderne in the George Pompidou Center is closed for two years.
Eva Poon, Australia (July 98)

I took the LP advice and rented a canal boat in Paris - it was much cheaper than staying in hotels for two weeks. Plus, you can take the boat up the St Martin canal to the Ourq canal, which is very nice once you get out of the suburbs.

Unless you have a river pilot's license, you can't take the boats on the Seine. But you can moor the boat at Port de Plaisance de Paris-Arsenal for 41 to 326 francs a day, depending on the size of the boat and the month. You need reservations. Port de Plaisance de Paris-Arsenal is very close to the Bastille metro and there is a nice park running the length of it. It's a great place to stay in Paris in your mobile hotel. (Port de Plaisance de Paris-Arsenal, 11, boulevard de la Bastille, 75012 Paris tel: 01 43 41 39 32; fax 01 44 74 02 66.

Make sure your running lights and your claxon work before entering the 2 km underground tunnel on the St Martin, especially if you're doing it at night. Our battery died and we were almost run over in the tunnel by a river barge named (wouldn't you know it?) - the Styx.
David Morgan (July 1998)

The best way from the UK to the south of France (and onward by ferry to Corsica) is to use EasyJet from Luton or Liverpool to Nice. Flights start at ú49 each way plus tax; book early for the best prices (three months ahead). These are good 737 jets and it only takes two hours. Timekeeping seemed to be good and there are three-five flights a day. Our experience was very favourable.
M&D Pennington (June98)

The best place I changed money in Paris was at the CommerzBank ATM machine located near La Opera. It gave us the best rates in Paris that no Bureau de Change can match and charges absolutely no commission. It accepts most major currencies.
Kevin Phua (June 98)

The best way to get around Paris is to use the metro. The cheapest tickets, if you have a fairly good level of French, is to pretend that you are living in Paris (despite your accent) and buy the "carte mensuel" (valid one month) or "carte hebdomadaire" (valid one week). These tickets are much cheaper than the ones sold to tourists who ask for a one week ticket. Remember though that you need a photo.
Jenny Scholin (May 98)

The left-luggage lockers and office at Gare de Lyon have shut down due to the "terriorist threat", though I was told that I could leave my luggage at Gare d'Austerlitz, two bus stops away.
Greg Slade (Apr 98)

Left luggage is a thing of the past. Since the subway bombings they have all been removed.
Taylor Kirby Jr - USA (Feb 98)

I have just returned from a few weeks in France. One problem I encountered was that my Australian visa card (issued by colonial state bank) did not work at any French ATM's (I tried about 20) and only worked at two places in France (SNCF and a ski resort). Getting cash was a real problem, but I finally found that I could get cash advances from Bureaux de Change, one bank I tried would not give me a cash advance over the counter using visa. It started to get humiliating having my card handed back with a shrug from shopkeepers and having to borrow money from friends.

When I contacted my bank they said that the problem is not with them but with visa and that there has been a problem with Australian visa cards in France for six months. It would have been nice to know before I left Australia.
Alan Hobbs - Australia (Jan 98)

The best way to get around on the famous metro subway is to buy a Parist Visite card. With this card you can use the metro without limitations. This is much cheaper than buying single tickets.
Andrea van Oort (Jan 98)

ATM's seem like a great way to change money, if your US bank does not charge you for withdrawal at other banks. The French banks I used imposed no fees. This had the additional plus of avoiding fee for changing from dollars or whatever to francs, at the optimal rate. This was an ATM withdrawal. NOT a cash advance against VISA or MasterCard which some guidebooks refer to and which is not, I believe a good deal as the card issuer is assessing fees and interest. One machine I tried balked, I tried another bank a block away and everything was fine. I wouldn't want this as my sole source of funds as a lost, stolen or malfunctioning card would leave you with nothing, but for the first time, I spent a vacation without once changing travellers cheques.
Eric Carlson - UK (Nov 97)

We found that the orange card on the metro was good Monday through Sunday and is not sold for the current week after Wednesday. Unless your visit coincides with the dates of the pass, buying the 10-ticket carnet seems to be the most reasonable approach.

The musees at monuments five-day pass is a good deal financially only if you plan to use it more than once per day during the period. (teenages need not buy a pass as they can get in free or at a reduced price everywhere) The only real advantage is avoiding the wait in the ticket line. You may or may not be able to avoid the wait at the entrance. Sometimes the pass is excepted at the door marked "tour groups only". A big drawback is figuring out where the card is accepted. I couldn't get a list of places anywhere and it was refused two of the places I tried to use it; the Palais Grande 'a special exhibit' and the museum for amateur art a 'private museum'.
Helen Stambaugh (Apr 99)

When travelling on the metro system after 11:00pm and 12:00am it is free of charge until closing. This gives you an hour or two free but it is worth knowing, and not giving your tickets when it is not necessary. Paris visite' cards are not worth buying as they are too expensive and a waste unless you plan on spending 18-20 hours a day on the metro.
Tom Ivanic, Canada (Apr 99)

If you want to visit the lovely town of Tours take the TGV (high speed train). This is a one hour journey, which is a fascinating experience by itself, not only eliminates a long coach ride from Paris, but also should prove much more economical.
Richard Bush, USA (Apr 99)

Marseille and Cassis both have "Carnavale" on the weekend closest to the 15th March. It's definately worth being in Cassis for the festivities. There are parades, everyone dresses up, outdoor food stalls, markets, entertainment etc. The downside of it all is that the public transport in Marseille grinds to a virtual halt for the entire weekend.
Tamara Somers, Australia (March 99)

If you are planning to go to France, visit Strasbourg - a beautiful city. The area is different from the rest of France in that it has been passed back and forth throughout history between Germany and France. Not only will you find great French people and German influences, you can also meet people from all over Europe. The city is home to the Council of Europe and the European Parliament so it is very easy to get around with little or no French.

With a Carte de Jeunesse you can travel anywhere in France for 50% off on blue period days (normally every day except Sunday and certain Monday's. A ticket from Paris to Strasbourg would cost only 108FF.
Emily Reardon (Feb 99)

Just in front of St Malo, is Dinard, a really nice seaside if you want to see St Malo from another perspective.

At night the walk along the sea is illuminated between 10 and 1 1pm. The numerous flowers and the colourful lights give a special atmosphere. The outdoor speakers play jazz and latin music - making the place unique. It also the place to see exceptional sunsets and is quieter and more peaceful than St. Malo.
Lucie Laplante, Canada (Aug 98)

Les Baux-de-Provence is a worthy trip for anyone who travels to Provence. I biked from Arles to Les Baux and was thoroughly moved by the scenery along the way. Granted that the stony hills and olive groves are not breathtaking, per se, but something about the Provencal sun changes the texture of everything and you begin to see the shapes and colours as Van Gogh had. The town of Les Baux itself is on a rock and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Yan Zhang (July 98)

One of the most delightful medieval town we have ever come across in southern France , in the Periogord, is Sarlat. It is an absolute delight with no cars allowed in the town centre, with completely authentic 12th century buildings and it is the centre of an area containing more castles and picturesque sights than you can accommodate. An absolute must - go for it.
Peter Finnegan (Mar 98)

Just outside of Paris up way high on a hill is Sacre Coeur, a church that overlooks the city. In the evening, grab a bottle of wine and head up there - people from all over the world congregate on the steps, listening, playing, whatever. There's nothing like hearing a folk-singing guitar playing Italian harmonising "Bye bye miss American Pie, while a drum jam goes on just down the way. We passed our wine around and made a lot of new friends - even though none of us spoke the same language. Last time I was there though, I noticed the beginnings of street vendors sensing a quick buck. I hope it's not ruined yet.

In the Jewish quarter is a small vegetarian restaurant (I can't recall the name, sorry!). As you walk in, the proprietor who is cooking up a storm, calls out to everyone who enters in their native tongue. I heard him speak English, French, German and others I didn't recognise. He maintains a running banter the whole time and really gives the place a feeling of camaraderie.We ended up in a wonderful conversation/charades with a number of people and the proprietor just beams down on everyone. Oh yeah, the food is delicious.
Keleigh Ahmann (Mar 98)

A warning about the Bastille area late at night. One fine Frenchman tried to sell a friend and me some hash one night at about 4 am while we were walking to the taxi stand. We refused, but he decided to mug us anyway, right there in broad street light in front of everyone on the sidewalk.
David Morgan (July 98)