DESTINATION ITALY

Facts at a Glance

Italy's instantly recognisable boot shape kicks its way into the Adriatic, Ionian, Ligurian and Tyrrhenian seas - all of which form part of the Mediterranean Sea. From west to east, France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia form a rugby scrum to the north. The islands of Elba, Sardinia, Ischia, Capri, the Aeolians and Sicily lie offshore. Mountains feature prominently in Italy's topography, and bolster its landlocked borders all the way from Genoa in the west to Trieste in the east. Italy's backbone is formed by the Apennines, extending from Genoa right down to the soccer ball which bounces off the toe of Calabria: Sicily. The lowland plain of the Po River Valley in the country's north-east forms the largest lowland area, and is heavily populated and industrialised as a result. Underground rambunctiousness is evidenced by the country's three active volcanoes - Stromboli in the Aeolian Islands, Vesuvius near Naples and Etna on Sicily - and the devastation wrought by earthquakes, especially fierce in 1908 and 1980. Beauty abounds in Italy, but, unfortunately, so does pollution, particularly in the big cities and along the coast.

A couple of millennia of human occupation, coupled with the locals' love of hunting, has extinguished many species of animals once endemic to Italy. You might spot a brown bear or a lynx if you're lucky, and the Alpine regions are still home to wolves, marmots, chamois and deer. Mouflon sheep and wild boars and cats can be found on Sardinia, while in the skies falcons, hawks and golden eagles dodge the hunters' birdshot.

Italy's climate varies from north to south and from lowland to mountain top. Winters are long and severe in the Alps, with snow falling as early as mid-September. The northern regions experience chilly winters and hot summers, while conditions become milder as you head south. The sirocco, however, affects regions south of Rome, the hot and humid African winds producing at least a couple of stiflingly hot weeks in summer.

While Italy's status as a single political entity is relatively recent (1861), its strategic Mediterranean position made it a target for colonisers and opportunists fairly early on in human history. The Etruscans were the first people to rule the peninsula, arriving anywhere between the 12th and 8th centuries BC. They were eventually subsumed within the mighty Roman empire, leaving little cultural evidence, other than the odd tomb. The Ancient Greeks, their contemporaries, set up a few colonies along the southern coast, which became known as Magna Graecia and developed into independent city states. Thus the greater glory which was Rome was itself the offspring of Etruscan and Greek cultures.

The first Roman Republic was founded in 509 BC, setting in motion the dogma of democracy, the linguistic nightmare of Latin and one of the largest empires the world has ever seen. The Republic's defeat of Carthage (near present-day Tunis) and Hellenic Macedonia during the three Punic Wars cleared the way for ultimate expansion into Spain, Britain, North Africa and present-day Iraq. Meanwhile, relative peace at home enabled the infrastructure of civilisation to spread - roads, aqueducts, cites. A slave-driven lifestyle and economy triumphed over the concept of people power, and the reins of the Republic were increasingly in the hands of the military and, ultimately, dictators.

The empire grew so large, it had to be divided into eastern and western sectors just to be administered. Even so, the bloodthirsty theatrics of regicide and intrigue were planting the seeds of its eventual destruction. Christianity was embraced by Constantine in 313, and the empire's capital was moved from Rome to Constantinople (present-day Istanbul). The western arm of the empire was undone by plague, famine and tribal incursions from the north, and was officially declared null and void in 476 when Odovacar, a German warrior, dubbed himself ruler. The Eastern Roman Empire clung on, and prospered, until overrun by the Turks in 1453.

Italy entered a period peopled by Goths and forever ostracised as the 'Dark Ages'. Successive waves of Lombards, Franks, Saracens, Germans and Normans invaded the peninsula and claimed in various degrees the lost title of empire and emperor, culminating in Frankish Charlemagne's crowning as emperor in 800. The south was dominated by Muslim Arabs until usurped by Normans. This ethnic cocktail began to settle in the 12th century, when the next big chapter in textbook history was about to begin. Powerfully combative and competitive city states arose in the north, supporting either the pope (power within the peninsula vested in the papal states) or the emperor (usually a foreign power). The rise of cities and a merchant class led directly to cultural adulthood, culminating in the Renaissance of the 15th century. Painters, architects, poets, philosophers and sculptors produced unsurpassed works of genius, despite the turmoil of intercity warfare and invasion by countries to the north. First Spain and then Austria controlled the peninsula during the ensuing centuries, followed briefly by Napoleon's imperial flourish.

The post-Napoleon shake-up led directly to the drive for unification of the 19th century, led by Garibaldi, Cavour and Mazzini. The Kingdom of Italy was declared in 1861, although Venice was not prised away from Austria until 1866 and papal claims remained an issue until 1870. No label of unity, however, could hide the huge cultural and social differences which split the industrialised north from the poverty-stricken south. Economic crisis and fickle politics dogged the new nation in the ensuing decades, as Italy muddled through WW I and became riddled with industrial unrest in the early 1920s. In a memorably unwise employment decision, the king asked one Benito Mussolini to take the reins of government under the auspices of his Fascist Party. Il Fusto soon became head of state, outlawed the opposition, controlled the press and trade unions and cut franchise by two-thirds. His relationship with Hitler soured after a series of military disasters and an Allied invasion, culminating in a dose of rough justice at the hands of partisans in April 1945.

The postwar years have been coloured by extremism: the extreme violence of terrorists such as the Red Brigade, extreme centre-right politics, extreme economic boom and economic crisis, extreme corruption and bribery in extremely high places - and an extremely cynical and fatigued public. Italy's parliament has a reputation for scandal and resignation, and at times it has left Italy virtually ungoverned and utterly chaotic. The 1998 election of Massimo D'Alema, however, has seen a return to left wing politics with the new government including Communists for the first time in half a century.

Culture

Dubbed the world's 'living art gallery', Italy has more 'culture' than you can shake a baton, paintbrush, quill or chisel at. Whether it's a broken pillar rising up through the linoleum floor of a train station or a baroque church overlooking a cracked antique pediment in the forum, history and culture surround you. Outside there are Etruscan tombs, Greek temples, cat-infested Roman ruins, Moorish architecture and statue-filled baroque fountains to gawp at; inside you can swoon to Roman copies of Hellenic sculptures, Byzantine mosaics, beatific Madonnas from Giotto to Titian, gargantuan baroque tombs and trompe l'oeil ceilings.

Events

Religious, cultural and historical events pepper the Italian calendar. The pre-Easter Carnival is closely associated with Venice, while Holy Week Easter processions are especially flamboyant at Taranto, Chieti and Sicily, and Florence explodes a cart full of fireworks on Easter Sunday. Festivals honouring patron saints are also particularly colourful events; for example the Feast of San Nicola in Bari, the Feast of San Gennaro in Naples, the Festival of Snakes in Abruzzo and the Feast of Sant' Antonio in Padua (June). Events betraying more than a hint of history include the Race of the Candles and Palio of the Crossbow in Gubbio, the Sardinian Cavalcade, the Regata of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics (which rotates between Pisa, Venice, Amalfi and Genoa, and is held in June), Il Palio in Siena (July & August) and Venice's Historical Regatta (September). Unless otherwise noted, these festivals and events take place in May.

Money & Costs

Currency: lira

Relative costs:

• cheap meal: US$3.50
• restaurant meal: US$15
• cheap room: US$12
• hotel room: US$30

Those on a tight budget will find eating and sleeping in Italy expensive. Prudent backpackers might squeeze by on around US$35 a day if they stay in hostels, make their own sandwiches, avoid indulging in alcohol and don't visit too many museums. A room in a one or two-star hotel, one sit-down meal per day and occasional visits to museums will cost close to US$80 per day. If you want to stay in comfortable hotels, eat out regularly in restaurants and visit lots of museums and galleries, you should budget on around US$120 a day; hiring a car will double your expenses. Be aware that Italy has more luxury hotels, expensive restaurants and shops to die for than you can shake a Gold Amex card at, so be prepared to stretch your budget if you have no self restraint.

Banks are the most reliable places to change travellers' cheques, and generally offer the best rates; shop around for the lowest commission deals and the shortest queues. Credit cards are widely accepted in Italy. Visa is the easiest card with which to obtain cash advances from banks.

Service charges are included in your restaurant bill, so you are not expected to tip. It is common practice, however, to leave a small amount. In bars, Italians will usually leave any small change as a tip, but this is by no means obligatory. Be aware that prices in Italian bars double (sometimes even triple) if you sit down. Tipping taxi drivers is not common practice, but your hotel porter will expect a little something.

When to Go

Italy is at its best in spring (April-May) and autumn (October-November). During these seasons, the scenery is beautiful, the temperatures are pleasant and there are relatively few crowds. Try to avoid August, as this is the time that most Italians take their vacations, and many shops and businesses are closed as a result.

The ski season generally lasts from December to late March; swimming is best between June and September; and July and September are the best months for walking in the Alps. The further south you go, the longer you can linger into November and December without feeling the pinch of winter. Italy's multitude of festivals and traditional events may be a factor in planning your visit; Easter, in particular, is celebrated fervently, and every second town has a festive Saint's day.

Assisi

Cagliari, the capital, is surprisingly attractive, with an interesting medieval section and a beautiful beach. Other attractions include the magnificent and relatively unspoiled Costa Verde coastline, the beaches and grottoes around the tourist enclave of Alghero and the trekking and traditional culture offered in Nuoro Province.

San Gimignano

Tremiti Islands

Cinque Terre

Getting Around

Recommended Reading

Lonely Planet Guides

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