 Facts at a Glance
Population:420,000
Country: Italy
Time Zone: GMT/UTC+1
Telephone area code: 055
Florence was founded as a colony of the Etruscan city of Fiesole in about 200 BC, later becoming the Roman Florentia, a garrison town controlling the Via Flaminia. In the early 12th century the city became a free comune and by 1138 it was ruled by 12 consuls, assisted by the Council of One Hundred, a bunch of rich merchants. In 1207, due to intractable problems with faction fighting, the council was replaced by a foreign (and thus allegedly unbiased) governer, the podestà.
In the 13th century the pro-papal Guelphs and pro-imperial Ghibellines started a century-long bout of bickering, which wound up with the Guelphs forming their own government in the 1250s. By 1292 Florence had had it with the obstreperous nobles, excluding them from government. The city became increasingly democratised, eventually becoming a commercial republic controlled by the Guelph-heavy merchant class.
The great plague of 1348 cut the city's population by almost half and really messed with people's heads. In the latter part of the 14th century the Medicis began consolidating power, eventually becoming bankers to the papacy. Cosimo Medici - patron of artists such as Donatello, Brunelleschi, Fra Angelico and Filippo Lippi - became ruler of Florence. Perhaps the most famous Medici was Lorenzo, grandson of Cosimo, who took power in 1469. His court fostered a great flowering of art, music and poetry, and Lorenzo sponsored philosophers and artists such as Botticelli, da Vinci and Michelangelo.
 Off the record
In 1494 the Medicis went broke and lost their hold on power. The city fell under the control of Girolamo Savonarola, a Dominican monk who led a puritanical republic until he fell from public favour and was burned as a heretic in 1498. The Medicis returned to Florence in the 16th century, having united themselves by marriage with Emperor Charles V, and ruled for the next 200 years. In 1737 the Grand Duchy of Tuscany passed to the House of Lorraine, which was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. Florence became capital of the Kingdom, and remained so until Rome took over in 1875.
Florence was badly damaged during WWII by the retreating Germans, who bombed all its bridges except the Ponte Vecchio. Devestating floods ravaged the city in 1966, causing inestimable damage to its building and artworks, some of which are still being restored. However, the salvage operation led to the widespread use of modern restoration techniques which have saved artworks throughout the country. A Mafia-related car-bomb explosion in 1993 near the Uffizi Gallery didn't exactly help these restoration efforts.
The best time to visit Florence is in the low season, from April to June and in September/October, when the weather is usually good, prices are lower and there are fewer tourists - if you come in July or August, expect a Renaissance Disneyland experience and plenty of sweat in your socks. Early winter, in December, can also be surprisingly pleasant, with crisp air and sunny days and far, far fewer people clogging up the piazzas.
Florence is the capital of the region of Tuscany, on Italy's north-west coast. A good reference point for navigating your way around Florence is its central train station, Santa Maria Novella, although the Duomo is pretty hard to miss. The city has two airports - Amerigo Vespucci is a few km north-west of the city centre and Galileo Galilei (for international flights) is about 75km (46mi) west of the city. You can walk from one end of the city centre to the other in about 30 minutes.
Florence has hundreds of hotels, hostels and private rooms, and more than 150 budget hotels; even so, it's best to book. Hotels and pensions are concentrated near the train station and in the old section of the city, from the Duomo to the river. Tuscany is known for its fine cooking - in particular, its olive oil, meat dishes and classic Chianti. Atmospheric trattorie abound, and there are clusters of lovely little eateries south of the Arno and near the central market in San Lorenzo.
The remarkable Duomo, with its pink, white and green marble façade and characteristic dome, dominates the city's skyline. The building took almost two centuries to build (and even then the façade wasn't completed until the 19th century), and is the fourth-largest cathedral in the world. The enormous dome was designed by Brunelleschi, and its interior features frescoes and stained-glass windows by some of the Renaissance-era's best: Vasari, Zuccari, Donatello, Uccello and Ghiberti. Take a deep breath and climb up to take a closer look, and you'll be rewarded by fantastic views of the city and an insight into how the dome was so cleverly constructed - without scaffolding (though there's plenty of that propping the dome up now!). The dome still defines the scale of the city, and no building in town is taller.
Giotto designed the cathedral's Campanile, and Pisano and della Robbia contributed bas-reliefs. It too is clad in white, pink and green marble. The Baptistry is adjacent - it's one of the city's oldest buildings, and was originally a pagan temple. The building is most famous for its gilded bronze doors. Those on the south are by Pisano, but it is the doors facing east (and in the direction of the cathedral) that are most talked about. Created by Ghiberti, they are known as the Gates of Paradise (a moniker believed to have been dubbed by Michelangelo). Created between 1424 and 1452, their beauty and sophistication mark them as one of the first products of the Renaissance. The Baptistry's ceilings feature gory 13th-century mosaics of the Last Judgment.
Behind the cathedral is the Duomo Museum, which features original panels taken from the doors of the Baptistry, Brunelleschi's death mask, equipment used to build the dome and an impressive sculpture collection, including pieces by Michelangelo.
The piazza was at the hub of Florence's political life through the centuries, and is surrounded by some of the city's most celebrated buildings. With its famous group of sculptures, the loggia looks a lot like an outdoor sculpture gallery; Cellini's magnificent statue of Perseus and Giambologna's Rape of a Sabine are particularly striking. Guarding the Palazzo Vecchio is a copy of Michelangelo's oh-so-strokable David. The palazzo has been Florence's town hall since 1322. Its characterful tower is another of Florence's symbols, and the interior of the palazzo was lavishly redecorated by Vasari. An elevated corridor called Vasari's Corridor leads from the palazzo, through the Uffizi, across the Arno by way of the Ponte Vecchio, and all the way down to the Palazzo Pitti. The private walkway was used by the Medici family as a way of visiting their scattered palaces without having to mingle with the masses. The walkway is lined, as if merely by second thought, with works of art.
Backing onto the loggia, and leading all the way down to the banks of the River Arno, is the famed Uffizi Gallery. The gallery's wonderful collection is arranged to illustrate the evolving story of Florentine art. Some of the most famous pieces are in rooms 7-18; they include Botticelli's Birth of Venus, Titian's Venus of Urbino, Michelangelo's Holy Family and Piero della Francesca's Duke & Duchess of Urbino.
If you make it out of the Uffizi with any energy and concentration left to spare, wander along the banks of the Arno towards the Ponte Vecchio. The famous 14th-century bridge is lined with shops selling gold and silver jewellery, a step up from the butcher shops which previously lined the bridge before Cosimo I decided glitter was better than gore. The bridge was the only one in the city to escape destruction during WW II.
If you experience a peculiar giddy feeling after visiting the Church of Santa Croce, don't despair. It's probable that you've succumbed to Stendhal's Disease, an illness diagnosed in about 12 visitors to Florence a year, and dating from the French writer's own feelings of culture shock and bedazzlement when he visited the church in the early 19th century. Geometrically coloured marble decorates the building's façade (added in the 19th century), but the real treats lie inside, where many famous Florentines lie in peace, hopefully immune to the tourist footfalls. The walls are lined with tombs, and 276 tombstones pave the floor. The church's most famous inhabitants are Michelangelo, Macchiavelli, Galileo and Bardi. Its various chapels feature works of art by Giotto and della Robbia, and the serene cloisters were designed by Brunelleschi. Santa Croce's museum features a crucifix by Cimabue, which unfortunately was severely damaged by the 1966 floods. Other churches which shouldn't be missed include the statue-filled Orsanmichele; Santa Trinità, featuring frescoes by Ghirlandaio; All Saints', with frescoes by Botticelli and Ghirlandaio; Santa Maria Novella, which contains Masaccio's groundbreaking Trinity, along with other significant artworks; the popular SS Annunziata; Giambologna's San Marco; and the Church of the Holy Spirit, one of Brunelleschi's last commissions, and featuring Filippino Lippi's Madonna & Child.
Just around the corner from Santa Croce you'll stumble across Casa Buonarroti, a house which Michelangelo owned but never lived in. Today, you'll find a collection of copies of the master's work. You'll find the real thing, however, at the Accademia Gallery: David in all his glory.
This lovely area is redolent of Florence in its prime, when Cosimo was king and cultural creativity abounded. San Lorenzo Basilica was begun by Brunelleschi in 1425 and is regarded as one of the city's purest Renaissance churches. The eastern façade is especially interesting, as it is completely bare of decoration and reveals the antique brickwork. It was the Medici family's parish church, and many of the members of the family are buried here. Donatello designed the bronze pulpits, and he is buried in one of the chapels. Passing through the cloister, you reach the Laurenziana Library, commissioned to house the family's huge library and featuring a sublime staircase by Michelangelo. The Medici Chapels are sumptuously decorated with precious marble and semiprecious stones; the most powerful Medicis were buried here. The New Sacristy was designed by Michelangelo and contains his Night & Day, Dawn & Dusk sculptures.
Adjacent to the basilica are atmospheric palazzos, with interior courtyards glimpsed through ancient wooden gates, and the especially bustling central market - the place to find bargain woollies and leather goods, especially if you're willing to bargain.
The Bargello Museum contains the most comprehensive range of medieval and Renaissance sculpture in Italy. Notable works include Michelangelo's drunken Bacchus, Donatello's David, the designs submitted by Brunelleschi for the Baptistry Doors Competition (Ghiberti won that one) and Giambologna's Mercury. The Bargello's heavily fortified exterior is a reminder of the building's former life as police headquarters and prison. Not too far away from the Bargello is Dante's House, a small museum which examines the famous Florentine's life.
Pitti Palace
One of the most visited sites on the southern bank of the Arno, this palace was designed by the workaholic Brunelleschi for the Pitti family, rivals of the Medicis - who soon made it their own. It's a huge and imposing building, and a treasure house of the Medici family's massive art collection. Treasures include works by Raphael, Filippo Lippi, Tintoretto, Veronese and Rubens, all hung in lavishly decorated rooms. The restored apartments convey the extravagant lifestyles of the Medicis, and the Savoys who later usurped their position. The palace also houses a gallery of modern art and a costume collection. If you're a palazzo addict, don't miss the Strozzi Palace, one of the city's most impressive Renaissance palaces; the Rucellai Palace, designed by Leon Battista Alberti, and today housing a photographic museum; and the Pazzi Palace, attributed to Brunelleschi.
Surrounding the rear of the Pitti Palace are some of Florence's most precious and breathtaking parks: the Boboli Gardens. A perfect example of formal Renaissance landscaping, the gardens include pools, fountains, geometric borders, tree-lined vistas, a grotto and the star-shaped Forte di Belvedere. If you've got the energy, it's worth heading down Via del Belvedere to reach Piazzale Michelangelo, which offers one of the most beautiful views of magical Florence.
Fiesole
Nestled in the hilly valleys between the Arno and Mugnone rivers, beautiful Fiesole offers spectacular views of nearby Florence (8km to the south) and is a welcome fresh-air retreat from the city bustle. The city readily reveals its Etruscan, Roman and Renaissance past, and as a summer retreat it has attracted the likes of Boccaccio, Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright. Fiesole has a duomo, an impressive art museum and an archaeological site featuring an Etruscan temple and the remains of a Roman theatre and baths. Fiesole is especially popular as a picnic spot, and its fascinating winding streets offer atmospheric walks.
Medici Villas
The Medicis built several opulent villas throughout the countryside around Florence during the 15th and 16th centuries. The Villa della Petraia, about 3.5km north of the city, is one of the finest. It was commissioned by Cardinal Ferdinand de' Medici in 1576, and features magnificent gardens. The Villa di Castello, farther north, was the summer home of Lorenzo the Magnificent and the Villa di Poggio a Caiano was a more permanent base, built for Lorenzo by di Sangallo about 15km from Florence.
Mugello Region
North-east of Florence, the Mugello features some of the most original villages in Tuscany. The Sieve River which winds through the grape-filled valley is popular with canoeists. The Mugello is very popular with walkers, trekkers, climbers and horse riders. Sights to look out for include the strategically positioned Montesenario Convent and the wine town of Rufina, with its viticulture museum.
Prato
Although lying 17km north-west of Florence, Prato has been caught up in the urban and industrial sprawl of the big city. Prato was founded by the Ligurians but was taken over by the Etruscans and the Romans. In the 11th century it was an important wool-production centre, and today it is still one of Italy's major textile producers. The old, walled city is fortunately an intact historic island in the industrial surrounds. It features palaces, the impressive municipal art gallery and a magnificent cathedral, with a façade by della Robbia and frescoes by Filippo Lippi, Uccello and Gaddi; the cathedral houses the Virgin's Girdle, which in the painting by Gaddi looks not unlike a hippie's handbag. The centre also features an imperial castle, built during the 13th century.
 Activities
Florence isn't exactly an adrenaline-junky's delight, catering more to addicts of caffeine, expensive shoes and naked babies with wings. If you're desperate for a leg stretch and a bit of fresh air, a stroll around the Giardino di Boboli is recommended - the views from here aren't bad either. You can also take full and half-day mountain bike tours of the countryside around Florence, or rent a bike and tangle with the traffic in town.
 Events
Major festivals include the Explosion of the Cart, when a cart full of fireworks is exploded in front of the duomo on Easter Sunday; and the Feast of St John the Baptist, the patron saint of the city, on 24 June. The lively Calcio Storico, featuring football matches played in 16th century costume, is held in June in Piazza della Signoria and ends with a fireworks display over Piazzale Michelangelo.
 Getting There & Away
Florence has two airports - Amerigo Vespucci for domestic flights and Galileo Galilei (near Pisa) for international flights. Galilei has regular connections to London, Paris, Munich and major Italian cities. There are also two bus stations. For international services, which go all over Europe, you need the Lazzi station - buses to Rome also go from this station. For domestic services to Siena, Arezzo, Castellina and all over Tuscany, go to the SITA station.
Florence is on the Rome-Milan line, so you can get to these two cities or to Venice, Trieste, Verona, Bologna and Pisa. If you're travelling by car, you can take the A1 to Bologna and Milano in the north or Roma and Napoli in the south.
A city bus runs every 20 minutes from the main train station to Amerigo Vespucci airport. There's a train service between the main station and Galileo Galilei airport.
Buses service the city centre and Fiesole, in the hills north-east of town. Bus tickets can be bought at tobacconists or vending machines, and must be validated as you get on the bus. Tickets are sold on a time basis - you can get one hour, two hour and 24 hour tickets.
Traffic is restricted in the city centre, so it's best to park a little out of town and walk around - parking in the more central areas is very expensive. Taxis are outside Stazione di Santa Maria Novella, or you can ring one.
- You simply must read EM Forster's A Room With a View before visiting Florence - there's no two ways about it.
- Companion Guides are excellent - Tuscany is written by Archibald Lyall.
- For a bit of travel writing, try The Stones of Florence by Mary McCarthy.
- Knock over all your Renaissance art study in one go with JH Plumb's Penguin Book of the Renaissance. For something slightly less factual, try Irving Stone's 'biography' of Michelangelo, The Agony and the Ecstasy.
- Christopher Hibbert brings the Renaissance to life in The House of Medici; its Rise and Fall.
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