DESTINATION MOZAMBIQUE

Time and tide have not been kind to Mozambique. A long, horrific civil war has scarred the country, shattered its infrastructure and left a million land mines scattered about the countryside. Much of its wildlife, including big game such as elephants and rhinos, has been decimated by war, and much of its coastline has been ravaged by cyclones. Droughts and floods take turns rubbing salt in Mozambique's wounds.

Many Mozambicans, however, have already begun putting the past behind them and have begun rebuilding their country. It's now possible to travel in relative safety, though getting around does require keeping your wits about you. And there's a fair number of things to see, including world-renowned beaches, World Heritage Sites and funky colonial architecture.

Map of Mozambique (14K)


Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveller
Money & Costs
When to Go
Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travellers' Reports on Mozambique
On-line Info



Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Republic of Mozambique
Area: 801,600 sq km (309,500 sq mi)
Population: 15.7 million
Capital city: Maputo (pop 1.3 million)
People: African (99%, including Shangaan, Chokwe, Manyika, Sena and Makua)
Language: Portuguese (official), indigenous languages
Religion: Indigenous beliefs (50%), Christian (30%), Muslim (20%)
Government: Republic
President: Joaquim Alberto Chissano
Prime Minister: Pascoal Mocumbi


Environment

Shaped a bit like an upside-down Afghan hound, Mozambique stretches for 2500km (1550mi) on the south-eastern coast of Africa, bordered by Tanzania to the north, Malawi and Zambia to the north-west, Zimbabwe to the west, and South Africa and Swaziland to the south-west. The island of Madagascar lies directly east, 400km (250mi) across the Mozambique Channel.

The coastal plain, as wide as 200km (125mi) in the south, rises to mountains and plateaux in the north and west. Two of Southern Africa's longest rivers, the Zambezi and the Limpopo, flow through the country. Other major rivers are the Save and the Rovuma (which forms the northern border with Tanzania). Massive Lake Malawi (also called Lake Nyasa) forms part of the border with Malawi.

As you go westward, the land changes abruptly from a narrow, palm-studded strip of beach along the coast to a broad belt of savannah and woodland, then forested mountains. Trees include hardwoods, acacia and papaya. Fauna include the rare, endangered black rhinoceros.

There are many regional variations in Mozambique, but generally the dry season runs from April to September, when the average daily high tops out at 27°C (80°F) on the coast, cooler inland. The rainy season lasts most of the rest of the year, when the average daily high hits 31°C (88°F).


History

Humanoids have been strutting around Mozambique for over 2 million years, and Homo sapiens have been settling the area for at least 100,000 years. Starting around 2000 years ago, Bantu peoples (named for their language group) began migrating into the area, bringing iron tools and weapons with them. Toward the end of the first millennium, several towns along the Mozambican coast grew into Bantu trading ports with links to other parts of Africa, the Middle East and India. The Arab influence in these ports was strong, and Swahili was the lingua franca of trade.

This is the Mozambique that greeted Vasco da Gama when he arrived in 1498. His goal was to establish supply points for Portuguese sea routes to India - a job that brought him into conflict with the resident Arab traders. A flourishing trade in gold and ivory persuaded the Portuguese to overcome such adversities. By the mid-1700s, slaves were added to the cargo. Meanwhile, the Portuguese were moving inland and colonising the country in earnest.

By the early 20th century a pattern was established in Mozambique. Rather than developing the country, the Portuguese simply rented out the available resources. This included human labour hired to neighbouring countries, particularly South Africa and Rhodesia, thus removing a large segment of the male labour force. Even more Mozambican men left the country after harsh working conditions were made worse by the rule of Fascist leader António Salazar in Portugal from 1932 to 1968. Salazar introduced cash crops such as cotton and rice and required all males over 15 to work on plantations for half the year, often in chains. Accompanying the rise in cash crops was a drastic drop in food production, leading to widespread famine in the 1940s and 1950s.

To make matters worse, the Portuguese made no pretence of social investment in Mozambique. Of the few schools and hospitals that did exist, most were in the cities and reserved for Portuguese, other whites and privileged African asimilados. It all came to a head in 1960, when Portuguese soldiers opened fire on peaceful demonstrators protesting taxes, killing about 600 people. The independence movement was born.

The Mozambique Liberation Front, or Frelimo, formed in 1962. Led by Eduardo Mondlane, Frelimo sought to completely liberate the country from Portuguese rule. The war lasted over 10 years, effectively ending in 1974 when the fascist regime was overthrown. The independent Republic of Mozambique was proclaimed on 25 June 1975 - and then troubles really began.

The Portuguese pulled out virtually overnight, leaving the country in chaos: lacking skilled professionals and infrastructure, bleeding capital, the economy plummeted. Frelimo, now the governing party, turned to the Communist governments of the Soviet Union and East Germany for help.

By the early 1980s the country was nearly bankrupt. Money was worthless and shops were empty. Compounding this instability were growing tensions between Mozambique and Rhodesia and South Africa, both of which sought to destabilise Mozambique for harbouring bases of their respective independence movements. Rhodesian-trained rebels in Mozambique formed the Mozambique National Resistance, or Renamo, and were eventually taken over by South Africa.

What followed has typically been described as a civil war, but some point out that Renamo was created, trained and supplied wholly by foreign agents. Renamo's aim was the wholesale destruction of Mozambique's social and communications infrastructure and the eventual overthrow of the government. The drought and famine of 1983 brought the country to its knees. Renamo attacked relief trucks and burned grain stores. Frelimo gradually yielded to the pressure and began opening up to the west, which responded with infusions of food.

Relations with South Africa had improved slightly by the late 1980s, but not until Frelimo jettisoned its Marxist ideology in 1990 was the Renamo threat abated. Both sides signed a peace treaty in 1992, officially ending hostilities. Elections in 1994 were surprisingly smooth and fair, resulting in the election of the head of Frelimo, Joaquim Chissano, to the presidency. Mozambique has done much to rebuild itself since then, though landmines, droughts (one as recent as 1998) and cyclones have continued to plague it.


Economic Profile

GDP: US$12.2 billion
GDP per head: US$670
Annual growth: 3%
Inflation: 22%
Major industries: Food, beverages, textiles, chemicals, petroleum
Major trading partners: South Africa, Spain, US, UK, Portugal, France, Japan


Culture

There are 16 major ethnic groups in Mozambique. The most significant are the Makua (the largest group) of the northern provinces; the Makonde (also of the north), famous for their carvings; the Sena, from the central provinces; and the Shanagaan, who dominate the southern provinces. There is also a small population of native Portuguese (less than 1%), plus small numbers of European and Asian residents.

Each of the major ethnic groups in Mozambique has its own language. The common tongue and official language is Portuguese. Since teenagers and young adults had their education interrupted by the civil war, Portuguese tends to be spoken only by older people and the very young. English isn't spoken much outside of the tourist areas of the south.

Like the other countries of Southern Africa, animist religions have existed in Mozambique for thousands of years, and many people retain their traditional beliefs, sometimes alongside an organised religion. Arab traders introduced Islam to the coastal regions beginning in the 8th century, and Portuguese Catholic missionaries brought over Christianity in the 16th century. Today, about a quarter of the population is Muslim, mostly in the northern provinces and coastal areas; about a fifth are Catholic; and most of the rest are animists.

Mozambique has a rich artistic tradition which, incredible as it may seem, continues to thrive after decades of colonial occupation and civil war. Today Mozambique produces some of the finest art in Africa. The sculpture of the Makonde people from the north is recognised as one of Africa's most sophisticated art forms. A number of talented painters have emerged since the 1950s. Probably the most famous is Malangatana, who has exhibited throughout the world. The country is well known for its murals, many of which can be found adorning walls in Maputo. The largest and most famous is near the airport, 95m (310ft) long and reflects many stories and images of the Revolution.

Traditions and stories have been preserved and transmitted orally from generation to generation in Mozambique. The written word has assumed more importance in the 20th century, and nationalist writers such as poet Jose Craveirinha have made the gritty, often tragic realities of the country their subjects. Since independence, a number of writers have emerged, including Mia Couto, whose works include Voices Made Night and The Tale of the Two Who Returned from the Dead.

Traditional music is widely played in Mozambique. The Makonde in the north are noted for their wind instruments, known as lupembe. In the south the Chope musicians play the marimba, a form of xylophone found throughout Southern Africa, and are famous for their marimba orchestras. Modern music flourishes in the cities. Marrabenta is perhaps the most typical Mozambican music - with a light style inspired by traditional rural majika rhythms.


Events

Public Holidays
1 January - New Year's Day
3 February - Heroes' Day
7 April - Women's Day
1 May - Workers' Day
25 June - Independence Day
7 September - Victory Day
25 September - Revolution Day
25 December - Christmas Day


Facts for the Traveller

Visas: All visitors need visas, which are good for up to three months, and proof of onward travel.
Health risks: Bilharzia, hepatitis A & B, typhoid, diptheria, tetanus, meninogococcal meningitis, polio, malaria
Time: GMT/UTC plus 2 hours
Electricity: 220/240V, 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric (see conversion table)


Money & Costs

Currency: Metical (Mt)

Relative costs:

  • Budget meal: US$1-5
  • Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-10
  • Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and upwards

  • Budget room: US$5-30
  • Moderate hotel: US$30-50
  • Top-end hotel: US$50 and upwards

    As a result of widespread destruction of its infrastructure, Mozambique is an inexpensive destination. Very comfortable travel is available for US$100 a day or less, though luxury hotels and chartered planes will be significantly more. If you're travelling on a moderate budget you should expect to spend around US$50 a day or more, depending on your taste for restaurant meals and safaris. If you do a lot of self-catering, take the train or bus and don't load up on artefacts, you can keep your costs below US$20 a day.

    The most readily accepted currencies are US dollars and South African rands. In the south you can pay for a lot of things (such as accommodation) with rands. The best places to change money are the private bureaux in Maputo, which give better rates than the banks. Local banks have branches in most cities. Changing money on the street is not safe anywhere.

    In general, tipping isn't expected, and you may find yourself having to explain that you really don't want your change. Things are a little different in Maputo, where prolonged exposure to foreign tourists and expats has given the locals a taste for tips. Plan on leaving between 5% and 15% of your bill, depending on the kind of place you're in - and, of course, on the quality of service. In general, the more upscale the place the higher the rate. Bargaining, especially in the open air markets, is commonplace.


    When to Go

    The best time to visit is the months of June to August, when both rainfall and temperatures are at their lowest. Later in the dry season, in late August and September, the temperatures start to climb, but this is the best time to see big game. The best time for birdwatching, on the other hand, is smack in the middle of the rainy season, usually November and December.


    Attractions


    Maputo

    Located near the very southern tip of the country, Maputo was once renowned as a beautiful city and rated by world travellers alongside Cape Town and Rio. But after almost 20 years of war and deprivation the capital is very rundown today, with crumbling buildings and dirty streets. Nevertheless, it's still an interesting place, with a very lively atmosphere. And the place slowly but surely improves. Old-timers say Maputo is already regaining some of its old charm.

    The oldest historic site is the fort, where you can patrol the ramparts, look at the old cannons or just sit and rest in the grassy courtyard. A must-see is the train station, designed and built in the early 1900s by the same Eiffel who gave us the famous tower. Recently renovated, it looks more like a palace, with polished wood and marble decorations, topped by a gigantic copper dome.

    Other highlights include the Botanic Gardens; the National Art Museum, which has a fine collection of Mozambique's best contemporary artists; and the lively Municipal Market, where fruit, vegetables, spices and basketwork are sold.


    Beira

    Beira, the second largest city in Mozambique, is a major port and rail terminus. Its compact central area and old Mediterranean-style buildings give the place some faded glamour. The heart of the city is the Praça (main square), which is surrounded by shops, markets and offices. The cathedral, just south-east of the centre, is looking a bit worse for wear these days but is definitely worth a stop. The bustling market at Tchunga Moyo (brave heart) is full of imported goods, contraband and some unsavoury characters, so travel light and walk carefully.

    The old part of the port is chock-a-block with wrecked vessels. Many people head for the fine sands and fairly clean waters at Praia de Macuti. There's an old shipwreck washed up on the shore near the red and white lighthouse at the northern end of the beach.

    Beira is 880km (550mi) north of Maputo, accessible by air (from Maputo and some other cities in Mozambique and Zimbabwe) and train a few times a week. The bus leaves more often but takes two days from Maputo.


    Pemba

    Pemba is a coastal town at the mouth of a huge bay. It boasts some interesting buildings (especially in Baixa - the old town) and a lively atmosphere. Most visitors come for the beaches - particularly Wimbi Beach (sometimes spelt Wimbe) - and the coral reefs. Wimbi is about 5km (3mi) east of town. The reef is so close you can swim out to it. A fledgling tourist industry is already transforming the place with bars, restaurants, diving, snorkelling, boating, fishing, etc. The Makonde workshop on the road between town and the beach has good wooden carvings for sale at even better prices (but stay away from the ivory). Bus or hired car is the way to get there, though you can get a dhow by asking around the port.


    Mozambique Island

    Mozambique Island (Ilha de Moçambique - commonly called 'Ilha') is a small chunk of land anchored about 3km (2mi) off the mainland (linked by bridge). Once the capital of Portugal's East African colony, the island is now known for its array of mosques and churches and its Hindu temple. Most of the sites are on the northern half, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The number one attraction is the Palace and Chapel of São Paulo - the former governor's residence - dating from the 1700s. This large building overlooks a large square inlaid with patterned stones, and the straits on the west side of the island. These days it's a museum, containing furniture and ornaments from Portugal, Arabia, India and China. Given the strife of the past 20-odd years, it's in remarkably good shape. Nearby is the Museum of Sacred Art, containing religious ornaments, paintings and carvings.

    At the northern end of the island is the Fort of São Sebastião, also in surprisingly good condition. Right nearby is the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, reported to be the oldest building in the southern hemisphere. Ilha can be reached by direct bus from Nampula on the mainland. Other options include hired car and boat.


    Off the Beaten Track


    Bazaruto Archipelago (Marine National Park)

    Located about 10km (6mi) off the coast, the Archipelago is one of the most beautiful places on the continent, complete with azure waters, sandy beaches, palm trees, pristine coral reefs, plus tropical fish to goggle at and big game fish to catch. The whole area between the mainland and the 150 fathom mark is now protected as a world-class conservation area. If you stay at one of the posh lodges, transfer by speedboat is available for around US$100 return. Rather cheaper are dhows, which can be got at Vilankulo on the mainland.


    Tofu & Barra Beaches

    The long, beautiful beaches of Tofu and Barra were legendary years ago and are fast regaining their former fame. Tofu is more accessible and more developed, with a hotel and holiday cottages. Barra is harder to reach but quieter, with a better setting: clean sand dunes with surf on one side and mangroves and palm groves on the other, where parrots and monkeys do their tropical stuff. Once South African fishermen stop driving along the beach in ugly 4WDs, it will be perfect. The beaches are accessible by car (though a 4WD really does come in handy for the last few kilometres of sandy road) and chapas, which go all the way to Tofu but stop 4km (2mi) short at Barra village school, from where you can get a guide to show you the way to Barra Beach.


    Lago de Cahora Bassa

    About 500km (310mi) north-west of the coast, the Zambezi River is dammed by the Barragem de Cahora Bassa. It was built in the 1970s, one of the largest civil engineering projects in Africa. Today, it is still a grand sight. Set in stunning scenery at the head of a magnificent gorge, the dam has created Lago de Cahora Bassa, a vast lake 270km (170mi) long, stretching back to the confluence of the Zambezi and the Luangwa Rivers on the border with Zambia.

    Although it's become a white elephant - operating far below capacity due to damage suffered during the civil war - it's developing into a tourist attraction. So far, the amenities are minimal, and about the only thing you can do here (besides take in the magnificent views) is take a tour of the dam (with the obligatory trip to the turbine room). You can get there by car, but there's also a bus that runs between Songo, the dam's service town, and Tete, the nearest large town, which is 150km (95mi) to the south-east down the Zambezi River. Before visiting, however, you'll need permission to visit, obtainable in Tete. There are serviceable rooms available in Songo.


    Activities

    Mozambique has great potential for anybody keen on wild animals or hiking (or both), but, tragically, the presence of nearly a million land mines in national parks and mountain areas (and throughout much of the country) means these activities aren't yet available.

    The safest bet is diving or snorkelling, and the best places to go down are the beaches at Wimbi, in the north, or Tofu and Barra or the Bazaruto Archipelago, which has great reefs. Birdwatching is popular in Mozambique, especially in the southern part of the country. The Maputo Elephant reserve, located on the ocean, is a good spot for birdspotting.


    Getting There & Away

    Outside of Africa, Portugal and France have the best air connections with Mozambique. Both Air France and Air Portugal have flights in and out of Maputo, though it's cheaper to fly to Johannesburg, South Africa, and travel by land to Mozambique. From within Africa, travellers can fly between Maputo and Lilongwe, Malawi, or Johannesburg. The airport departure tax for international flights is US$10.

    The best land crossings are over the South African border. There are three trains a week between Johannesburg and Maputo, taking about 15 hours each way. There are also minibuses running between Maputo and various South African towns, and a daily direct luxury bus connecting Maputo and Johannesburg. Minibuses also run between Maputo and towns in Swaziland, crossing the border at Namaacha, Mozambique.

    Other border crossings are less convenient and less reliable. You can cross between Palma (at the very north-eastern corner of Mozambique) and Mwambo, Tanzania, but there's very little transport south of Palma and the roads are terrible. Land mines and bandits make crossing between Mozambique and Zambia a very dicey proposition; most people go through Malawi and one of several border crossings. There are two main crossings between Mozambique and Zimbabwe: Nyamapanda on the Tete Corridor, and Machipanda on the Beira-Harare Road.


    Getting Around

    The bus is about the best means of getting around Mozambique. There are buses running between major towns usually once a day at least. There are three main private companies and each has express lines (which means less slow, not particularly quick). Where the roads are well maintained, this is a good way to go. Where the roads are in rough shape (and that includes nearly all rural areas), you'll probably have to use converted passenger trucks called chapa-cems (short for 'tin one-hundreds' and usually just called chapas) to get around.

    LAM has flights inside Mozambique, connecting Maputo, Beira, Tete and other cities. Flights are frequently delayed or cancelled; baggage is frequently lost or tampered with. There are also twice-weekly flights between the capital and the Bazaruto Archipelago. Sabin Air, a private charter airline, can fly you just about anywhere you like, though it's more expensive than LAM.

    If you're driving your own vehicle in Mozambique, the police have a reputation for finding problems trivial and imagined with vehicles for which large 'fines' are imposed. If you're polite, have your vehicle and papers in strict order and obey all the road rules, you stand less chance of being hassled. Cars can be hired in Maputo and Beira, where several major and a few local agencies have depots.

    The airport is about 1km north-west of the city centre. Taxis and buses are available. The train station and minibus depot are at the southern edge of the city.


    Warning

    It has been estimated that more than one million land mines - laid by both sides during the war - remain unexploded in Mozambique. Some minefields have warning signs, but most are unmarked and often only get discovered when someone gets blown to bits. For this reason it is simply not safe to go wandering off into the bush anywhere without first seeking local advice, and even then your safety isn't guaranteed - the number of local people with one or both legs amputated is proof enough of that.

    Stay on roads and well worn tracks where other people have obviously gone before. Take special care on road verges in rural areas - for example, if you want to head into the bushes for a pee. It's even possible to set off a mine by standing on the road and peeing into the verge.

    There are also a lot of guns in Mozambique, and a lot of desperately poor people. Armed robberies - aimed mostly at people driving cars around Maputo - used to be completely unknown, but since 1996 several incidents have been reported.


    Recommended Reading

    • If you read only one book on Mozambique, it should be Kalashnikovs and Zombie Cucumbers, by Nick Middleton, which covers the colonial era, South African and superpower involvement in the war, and various aspects of the country today.
    • William Minter looks at the roots of the civil war in Apartheid's Contras, as does William Finnigan in The Harrowing of Mozambique.
    • And Still They Dance, by Stephanie Urdang, is a study of women's roles in the war and struggles for change in Mozambique.
    • Artists de Moçambique, a large, glossy coffeetable book, is a good introduction to the country's principal artists. Other books in the same series include Mascaras, on traditional masks, and Ilha de Moçambique, on the former island capital.

    Lonely Planet Guides

    Travellers' Reports

    On-line Info


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