Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
The Mozambique border fee can be paid in Malawi kwachas or Zimbabwe dollars without any problems. This works out a lot cheaper than paying in US$ or rand.
If coming from Malawi: Doogle's Lodge in Blantyre can organise Mozambique visas, so you don't have to go to the Consulate-General in Limbe.
Despite what the Mozambiquan Embassy in Pretoria regularly tells travellers, there is no chance to obtain a Mozambique visa on the border. The closest places to the Komatipoort/Ressano Garcia border post where you can obtain a visa are Nelspruit and Maseru/Swaziland.
Alex Junge, Germany (Nov 98)
Wimbi Beach may indeed be one of the best beaches on the east coast of Africa, but if you want to get there without flying, you need to allow between five and seven days to go from Inhambane, and that's if you don't spend more than a night each in Beira, Quelimane or Illha de Mocambique, to mention just a few of the options. Of course, if you headed north from Maputo with travellers' cheques, your adventure may wind up far sooner than anticipated. This was a problem we heard repeated on several occasions, with many travellers assuming that the coast would offer cheaper rates than the US$15-25 the banks in Maputo charge to change cheques. Instead, travellers find meticas, rand and US$ are the only currencies worth the paper they are printed on in anywhere but the biggest cities. Even cash in sterling is seldom accepted. If you missed out at the airport in Maputo, which does not charge commission, the bureau de change, next to the Hotel Polana, has the best rates for the lowest commission.
Andrew Burke, UK (Dec 98)
For any overlanders travelling from the north of Mozambique down the main road to Maputo, please take note that the road the road linking Beira and Vilanculos is really non-existent. We were in a 4X4 and only just made it, passing at least 6-7 broken down busses and trucks along the way. There are sections of the road that are so bad, it is easy to burst tyres and crack axles. The distance is only 480km, but be prepared for a much longer trip. We also found that petrol was scarce; there are no stations between Beira and Vilanculos. When we finally arrived in Vilanculos, the BP station had no petrol and we had to get some from a government depot there. Thank goodness we had someone who spoke Portuguese with us!
Shelley (Dec 98)
Avoid using travellers' cheques in Mozambique as there is a $15 commission no matter how much or how little you change. Credit cards are useless. Bring cash only, and run the risk of being robbed. This is very unlikely, except possibly in Maputo.
Ragnhild Kjetland, Norway (Nov 98)
I have been up and down the whole East Coast of Africa and nothing matches Praia de Torfu in beauty, not to mention the amazing surf. It is midway between Xai-Xai and Vilanculos and there's a groovy little guesthouse/restaurant at the point with the coolest mongrel dog in Africa. The town itself has some nice Portuguese architecture, lovely warm people, excellent seafood and, like everywhere else in Mozambique, lovely cold and affordable beer.
Andrew van Smeerdijk. UK (Oct 98)
Maputo is the ONLY place where you can gain currency by means other than just cash. Outside Maputo, we found cash the only really useful means of accessing local currency. Travellers' cheques could be exchanged in banks but usually with the addition of quite an inflated commission (whereas no commission was taken for cash). We met an English guy in Inhambane who was trying to get money transferred from the UK and it took 23 days to process the transaction! Rand is widely and thankfully accepted at any of the places which are run by South Africans.
Andrew Bracken, UK (Sep 98)
I would advise people planning to go to Mozambique to carry cash. It is so much easier to exchange with no commission charged. If you have travellers cheques, be prepared for hefty charges. In Chimoio I changed ú150 in travellers cheques and was charged ú20 in commission.
Loretta Creckendon - UK (Jul 98)
The wonderful National Art Museum in Maputo, which you recommend, is only open in the afternoon (3pm to 7pm) and closed on Tuesday, whatever the official tourist office says.
Asger Blom - Belgium (Mar 98)
A big word of warning: VISA cards are only accepted for cash advances in Maputo. We got into some difficulties. Definitely take some backup travellers cheques.
Richard Green (Dec 97)
Travellers are now allowed to enter Mozambique from Zimbabwe with a rented car; what you need (beside a Mozambican visa and a credit card) is only an export permit for the car, easily arranged (free and in a few hours) by the renting company. In Harare, it is better to avoid the usual big companies (more expensive) and shop around for better fares.
Fuel in Zimbabwe is very cheap (0.25 US$ per litre), but more expensive in Mozambique (0.75 $/litre). Petrol stations in Mozambique can now be found in the towns and near the junctions, so you don't need to carry fuel with you anymore, just remember to fill the tank every time you find a station.
Ilario Lagasi, Italy (Dec 98)
There is no longer a Limpopo train running to Harare.
Hannah Lewis, UK (Aug 98)
Metavia Airlines now has a daily flight, Maputo - Durban - Maputo. This happened to be very useful to us, as we had to be in Durban at a certain date. The tickets are sold from the agency Polana Tours, inside Hotel Polana, Av Julius Nyerere 1380 (Phone: 4935 3314). The tickets are not cheap, but are a solution and I think they are still developing new destinations (eg, Richards Bay).
Asger Blom - Belgium (Mar 98)
We're pretty sure there are no longer trains to Manica. We were told that there are trains, but unfortunately there are no carriages. The station itself is a sixties wonder, while at the same time, also reminiscent of Rome's central station and we're almost certain, featured on the 500 met coin. We stopped in Beira (Sofala) so long because we wanted to catch the ferry to Quelimane. The old, rusty ferry you mentioned has been replaced by a new boat from South Africa and costs over US$30 for a seat on the deck with little sunshade. We were first told the boat would leave on Saturday: by Friday it was leaving on Monday and by Saturday it was leaving on Tuesday. By Monday it wasn't leaving at all - its engine was 'broken' and the captain was going to South Africa for parts. I don't imagine it will be running anytime soon.
Sean Wayman & Cameron Lindsay - Australia (Mar 98)
One of the most beautiful places to stay in Southern Mozambique is Pomene. It is about 100km south of Vilankulos and has a 20km long beach to camp on under palm trees. The beach is spotless and you are likely to have it to yourself. Whilst there we saw three whale sharks from the beach. Unfortunately you will need your own vehicle to get there.
Chakamba dam is a great overnight spot which is 40km inside Mozambique coming from Mutare, Zimbabwe. It has lodges and a camp site on the dam shore, as well as a restaurant. Boat and fishing tackle can be hired also.
Andrew Thorburn - South Africa (Oct 98)
The best reason to go to Buzi would be to cross the river and get on one of the tractors that serve as public transport down to Nova Sofala. Apparently the beach there is beautiful and it is, of course, the site of the ruins of Sofala - the fabled City of Gold. It was here that much of the gold mined by the Great Zimbabwe State ended up being traded with Arab seafarers. We were told President Chissano likes to visit here, regarding it as something of the 'spiritual heart' of Mozambique, even though most of the city is now submerged. The only reason we didn't make it was because we needed to be back in Beira for the ferry and public transport is scarce. What we'd recommend though, is taking the boat up the Buzi river and going on by bus (in the dry), or tractor in the rainy season, from Buzi to Nova Sofala, without staying over in Buzi.
Sean Wayman & Cameron Lindsay - Australia (Mar 98)
Tofu and Barra beaches really are gorgeous. We camped literally on the beach in Tofu - no-one seemed to mind, though we heard of people having everything stolen. We were told that Barra beach was only a couple of kilometres away so decided to walk with all our stuff along the beach. It turned out to be a good 7 or 8 km, and we were knackered by the end of it. But it was one hell of a walk - 8 km of totally unspoilt gorgeous beaches, and not a single other foreigner.
Richard Green (Dec 97)
MOZAMBIQUE