Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Kingdom of Lesotho
Area: 30,350 sq km (11,840 sq mi)
Population: 2,008,000
Capital city: Maseru (pop 200,000)
People: Sotho (99.7%), European
Language: English (official), seSotho (southern Sotho), Zulu, Xhosa
Religion: Christian 80%, co-existing with traditional beliefs
Government: Constitutional monarchy
Head of State: King Letsie III
Prime Minister: Pakalitha Mosisili
Lesotho (pronounced le-soo-too) is a mountainous kingdom completely surrounded by South Africa. It's roughly circular in shape and about the same size as Belgium. Lesotho's forbidding terrain and the defensive walls of the Drakensberg and Maluti ranges have given both sanctuary and strategic advantage to the Basotho (the people of Lesotho). All of Lesotho exceeds 1000m (3280ft) above sea level with peaks reaching to well over 3000m (9840ft). The tourist slogan, 'kingdom in the sky', is not far wrong, as Lesotho has the highest lowest point of any country in the world. To the west the land descends through foothills to a lowland belt along the border where two-thirds of the population live. Three large rivers, the Orange, the Caledon and the Tugela, rise in the mountains.
For many, southern Africa's most impressive endowment is its flora, and Lesotho can claim a significant amount of credit for that, with a spectacular diversity of plantlife.
Incredible thunderstorms are common during the summer in Lesotho, with deadly lightning strikes reported every year. Eighty-five per cent of rainfall occurs from October to April, while snow occurs in the highlands from May to September. Despite the incredible storms, Lesotho usually boasts clear blue skies and more than 300 days of sunshine each year.
People described as Sotho have lived in Southern Africa since at least the 10th century AD, moving throughout the high veld of the region. By the 16th century, the Sotho people had arrived in the area known now as Lesotho, marrying and intermingling with the Khoisan people, and forming small chiefdoms. Extensive trade links were established between the groups, as well as with outside people. Grain and hides, for example, were traded for iron from the Transvaal area.
By the early 19th century white traders were on the scene, exchanging their ever-reliable beads for cattle. In came the Voortrekkers (Boer pioneers), and suddenly the people of the area, now called Basotholand, had to recognise that constant expansion for 300 years was placing extreme pressure on the environment. At the same time, consolidation and expansion of the Zulu state was causing a chain-reaction of violence throughout Southern Africa. Survival by the loosely organised southern Sotho society is attributed to the strong leadership of Moshoeshoe the Great.
The Basotho emerged as a people around 1820 when Moshoeshoe the Great gathered the tribes scattered by Zulu raids and established a stronghold at Butha-Buthe, and later on the mountain of Thaba-Bosiu, about 30km (20mi) from what is now Maseru. By 1840 his people numbered about 40,000. Worried by the Boers, Moshoeshoe the Great enlisted British support, but the British were equally worried about Moshoeshoe, and launched an unsuccessful attack on him. When the English left defeated, the Boers pressed their claims to the land, leading to the 1858 Free State-Basotho War (won by Moshoeshoe) and another in 1865 (in which Moshoeshoe lost much of the western lowlands). In 1868, under increasing pressure from the Boers, Moshoeshoe placed the region under the protection of the British government, but as part of the deal, lost even more land to the Boers.
The British signed over control to the Cape Colony in 1871 - a year after the death of Moshoeshoe the Great - and the new government wasted no time reducing the power of the chiefs. After another war in 1880 the land was again shuttled back to British control. This turned out to be a lucky break for the people of Lesotho. Had they remained part of the Cape Colony, they would have become part of the newly-formed Union of South Africa and, under apartheid, would have become a homeland.
In 1910 the Basotholand National Council - an official advisory body - was formed, and in the mid-1950s it requested internal self-government. Elections were held in 1960 for a Legislative Council made up of elected delegates and appointed chiefs. In 1966, Basotholand gained independence, and its name was changed to Lesotho. When the first Prime Minister, Chief Jonathan, was defeated at the 1970 poll, he suspended the constitution, expelled the king and banned the opposition. This textbook example of African democracy at work led to another staple of modern African politics - a coup - in 1974. The attempt was crushed and Jonathan retained power in the one-party state. When the leader began siding with foreign nations in criticising South African apartheid in 1983, South Africa closed Lesotho's borders, strangling the country. It was a telling reminder of South African power.
On January 20, 1986, Chief Jonathan was overthrown in a coup by Major General JM Lekhanya. Although the South African government has vehemently denied any involvement, the new regime proved more amenable to South African regional security policies. In 1991 Lekhanya was himself overthrown by a group of army officers. King Moshoeshoe II went into exile in London. Following negotiations between the new leadership headed by Major-General Elias Ramaema and Moshoeshoe II, the former monarch returned to the country in August 1992. He did not resume his throne, however.
Ramaema promised a return to civilian rule, and elections for a new National Assembly were held in March 1993. Every one of the 65 seats was won by the Basotho Congress Party. The BCP leader Ntsu Mokhehle became Prime Minister. On two occasions in the first part of 1994, discontent in the army flared up into skirmishes between rebel troops and forces loyal to the government. These events were overshadowed, however, by the dissolution of parliament in August by new King Letsie, Moshoeshoe's son, who cited popular diasstisfaction with the BCP administration and appointed himself head of state for both executive and legislative purposes. The move was widely condemned outside the country, and under heavy diplomatic pressure, Letsie restored constitutional government the following month, and abdicated in favour of Moshoeshoe, five years after being deposed. In late 1995, Moshoeshoe II was killed in a car accident. Letsie succeeded him with little apparent controversy.
GDP: US$3.7 billion
GDP per head: US$1860
Annual growth: 10%
Inflation: 8%
Major industries: Food, beverages, textiles, handicrafts, construction, tourism
Major trading partners: South Africa, North America, Asia
Although traditional Basotho culture is breaking down through contact with the rest of the world and changes in the society, much remains because it still relates to the day-to-day lives of the locals, finding footholes in language, proverbs, games and stories. Customs, rites and superstitions explain and flavour the lives and ceremonies of the people. As in all cultures, the milestones of birth, puberty, marriage and death are associated with ceremonies. Cattle, both as sacrifices and as symbols of status, play an important role in village culture, as does the cultivation of crops and the vagaries of the weather - Basotho farmers have to worry about drought, flood, hailstorms, snow and lightning.
Music and dance play their part in traditional culture, both in ceremonial occasions and in everyday life. There are various kinds of musical instruments, from the flute-like lekolulo, played by herd-boys, to the stringed thomo, played mainly by women and the setolo-tolo, a stringed instrument played with the mouth by men.
Much of traditional Basotho culture is associated with avoiding misfortune, and reflects the grim realities of life in a marginal agricultural region. For example, a feeble old man, unwilling to die and relieve his family of the burden of supporting him, is liable to be placed at the entrance to a cattle kraal, to be trampled in the evening by the returning beasts. It's not all serious, though, with a rainmaking ritual ending with the theft of a wooden cooking utensil by a gang of young women, and a game of 'keepings-off'.
Events
Being predominantly Christian, Lesotho's national celebrations and holidays occur during the two main feasts of Easter and Christmas, as well as on Ascension. There are also public holidays to celebrate the great leader Moshoeshoe (11 March), the King's Birthday (formerly Letsie's Day - 17 July) and, of course, National Independence Day (4 October).
Visas:Thirty-day visas are required by everyone, except visitors from a long list of countries including all Commonwealth countries (except Australia, Cameroon, Canada, Ghana, India, Mozambique, New Zealand, Nigeria, Pakistan, South Africa and Sri Lanka, who do require visas) and a list of other mostly European countries including France, Germany, Ireland, Italy and Japan.
Health risks: Aside from the possibility of contaminated drinking water in remote areas, Lesotho shares with South Africa a pretty good record on health. Malaria is unknown due to the higher altitude, however precautions should still be taken, especially since nearby countries are succeptible. Also beware of storms, lightning strikes, freezing overnight temperatures and the nasty schistosomiasis parasite, found in unchlorinated water.
Time: GMT/UTC + 2 hours
Electricity: 220-250V
Weights & measures: Metric (see conversion table)
Money & Costs
Currency: Loti (LSL)
Relative costs:
- Budget meal: US$0.60-1
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$2-4
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$5-10
- Budget room: US$2.50-5
- Moderate hotel: US$12-20
- Top-end hotel: US$22-40
Compared with South Africa, Lesotho is a fairly inexpensive place to travel. The cheapest rooms are nothing spectacular, but for a few dollars more, you can sleep in private-bathroomed, air conditioned comfort. Meals also start off very very cheap and progress up to just plain cheap. If you're in the capital, Maseru, staying and eating at the low end of the market and walking everywhere, you could scrape by on about US$10 a day. The slow but far-reaching bus network will cost between US$0.50 and $4 per trip. Car hire (available in Maseru but cheaper in South Africa) is around US$40 a day for a small car. If you're travelling around in a hire-car, staying at up-market hotels and eating steak, you could go through US$140 a day at a stretch.
The currecy, called the loti (plural: maloti), is at a fixed value against the South African rand, and rands are accepted everywhere. If you're coming from South Africa (likely, if not compulsory), there'll be no need to change your money. When cashing travellers cheques, you can request rand, which saves having to convert unused Loti later. Credit cards are accepted in the capital, but travellers cheques and cash are required for many purchases.
Tipping is mandatory in South Africa, and the practice is fairly common in Lesotho as a result. About 10% is the norm. When added to the GST of 10%, your bill can end up a lot more than the quoted price.
When to Go
Weather is probably the main consideration for travellers deciding the best time to go, and if you don't mind getting a little wet, it doesn't much matter. Nearly all of Lesotho's rainfall is during the summer, between October and April. When the sun comes out, though, it's beautiful and warm.
Maseru
Situated on the western border, Lesotho's capital has been a quiet backwater for most of its history, expanding rapidly only since the 1970s to its current population of a little over 200,000 people. Maseru paved its first road in 1947 for a visit by British royals, and for some years Kingsway remained the only such road in the country. For a 3rd world city in the middle of a period of massive expansion, however, Maseru manages to maintain a laid-back feel.
Surrounding the capital are 'urban villages', such as Phomolong where you can get a first-hand look at a more traditional lifestyle. In the town itself, there are several nightspots frequented by expats - mostly workers for aid organisations - who can give you advice about things to do during your stay in return for a beer or three, but you might like to explore the Hat Craft Shop, the Royal Palace and the National Museum, all within a kilometre (900 yards) of each other in the town centre.
Thaba-Bosiu
King Moshoeshoe I's mountain stronghold, first occupied in July 1824, is about 16km (10mi) east of Maseru. The most important historical site in the country, Thaba-Bosiu (Mountain at Night) features a visitor information centre, official guides and good views - including the Qiloane pinnacle, inspiration for the shape of the famous Basotho hat. Thaba-Bosiu was the site of regular attacks for 40 years, and - thanks to the geography - never fell to an invader. Minibus taxis from the Hyperama supermarket in Maseru will take you to the visitor centre at the base of the mountain for less than US$1.
Teyateyaneng
The name means 'Place of Quicksand' which doesn't sound that welcoming, but Teyateyaneng has been developed by Lesotho authorities as the centre of the nation's traditional arts and crafts industries. The place is generally referred to locally as TY, and boasts some of the finest tapestries, tribal wool products and Letlotlo handcrafts gathered in one village. You can reach Teyateyaneng by minibus taxi from the capital. It's about 30km (18mi) to the north-east.
Mokhotlong
The first major town north of the Sani Pass, Mokhotlong (Place of the Bald Ibis) has basic shops and transport to Oxbow and Butha-Buthe. The town, 270km (170mi) from Maseru and 200km (125mi) from Butha-Buthe, has the reputation for being the coldest, driest and most remote place in Lesotho. And given the comparative lack of roads and transport, that's really saying something. There are a couple of places to stay and the town is a good base for walks to the Drakensberg escarpment. Private transport is required to reach Mokhotlong from Maseru.
Quthing
Also known by the Sephuthi name Moyeni, meaning Place of the Wind, Quthing is Lesotho's southernmost major town. The town is split in two, with Lower Quthing housing most of the shops and residences, while Upper Quthing - overlooking the dramatic Orange River Gorge - is where you'll find a good hotel, a mission and sundry colonial-era statues. Also near Quthing is the Masitise Cave House featuring San paintings, some 180 million year old dinosaur footprints and a striking sandstone church. The town is about 130km (80mi) from Maseru.
One of the most popular and exciting activities for travellers to Lesotho is pony trekking on the tough, sure-footed Basotho ponies. There are several trekking centres, though the one located on God Help Me Pass has a certain allure, if only for the chance of t-shirts.
Along the same lines, but without the safety of the cliff-climbing ponies, is hiking. With landscapes reminiscent of the Tibetan plateau (apparently), the hikes are dangerous and the weather freezing and treacherous. Be well prepared, bring all equipment with you and don't make Lesotho your first hiking experience.
Enjoying the great Lesotho outdoors doesn't have to mean being rescued from a ravine, however, with birdwatching and trout fishing among the more sedate pleasures. Nearly 300 bird species is pretty impressive for a landlocked country, with raptors being particularly prevalent. A fishing licence is required from the Ministry of Livestock for a nominal fee, and bag and size limits apply.
Getting There & Away
Lesotho Airways flies daily between Moshoeshoe airport, 18km (11mi) north-east of Maseru, and Johannesburg. The fare is cheaper for a return ticket, or if you book well in advance. There's a departure tax of US$3.50.
Minibuses ply the same route regularly for a little over US$10, while slightly cheaper buses run to various South African locations from the bridge on the South African side of the border at Maseru. A bus linking Bethlehem and Bloemfontein stops at the Maseru bridge. It is a slow local service with a 'fluid' timetable.
Hire cars are a popular option in South Africa and, if organised at the time of hire, can be freely driven in Lesotho. Entry via Sani Pass is impossible unless you're in a 4WD, but if you're adventurous you can leave Lesotho by that route - though you might feel like you're in free-fall some of the way. There is a road tax for everyone leaving Lesotho, set at a whopping US$0.35.
Getting Around
At the moment, the only internal flight in Lesotho is from Maseru to Qacha's Nek. There is a good network of slow buses, but be prepared for long delays on the road. Buy short-distance tickets to allow for bus-hopping, rather than one long-distance ticket committing yourself to extended waits in one-pony towns. Unusually for Africa, all buses are non-smoking. Minibuses are slightly quicker, but don't cover the same distances. There are no trains in Lesotho.
Car hire is available in Maseru, but hire rates are significantly cheaper in South Africa.
Recommended Reading
- Stories By and About Women in Lesotho, published in 1995, contains tales told orally by non-English speaking seSotho women. Translated by English-speaking friends and relatives, the stories provid insights into women's thoughts and decision-making processes in Lesotho. It's edited by K Limakatso Kendall.
- Gary N. Van Wyk's African Painted Houses: Basotho Dwellings of Southern Africa is a pretty picture book of the remarkable colourful traditional housing of Lesotho.
- For a dry but detailed account of the political transition of modern Lesotho, try The Anti-Politics Machine: 'Development', Depoliticization, and Bureaucratic Power in Lesotho by James Ferguson.
- Budding bird watchers shouldn't hit the highlands without Kurt Bonde's Birds of Lesotho: A Guide to Distribution Past and Present under their arm.
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