Beijing Paradise BBS Backup/PARADISE.ISO/software/BBSDOORW/JOB4.ZIP/OOHB0251.HBK

Text File | 1995-10-24 | 16.9 KB | 335 lines

333
Apparel Workers

(A list of D.O.T.  codes is available on request.  See page 468.)

Nature of the Work

Apparel workers transform cloth, as well as leather and fur, into
clothing and other consumer products.  Many of these workers also
care for these products and do alterations.  (Some items that we
think of as apparel, such as socks or pantyhose, are produced in
knitting mills.  Workers who are employed in these factories are
classified as textile rather than as apparel workers.  A separate
statement on textile machinery operators is presented in this
section of the Handbook.)

   Apparel production begins with a design, created by a designer, that
has been made into a sample product.  (A separate statement on
designers is presented elsewhere in the Handbook.) Because these
goods are to be mass produced, a pattern must be developed.  This is
usually done with the aid of a computer.

   Once the pattern has been created, the fabric must be spread and
cut.  Many layers of material are spread on the cutting table,
depending on the number of products needed, as well as the weight
and quality of the material.  Workers known as markers must
determine the best arrangement or layout of the pattern pieces to
minimize waste.  In most plants, this step depends on the judgment
of the worker.  Increasingly, however, computers are used to
determine the optimum arrangement of the pattern pieces.

   Using an electric knife or other cutting tool, other workers cut out
the various pieces of material following the outline of the pattern.
On especially delicate or valuable items, this may be done by hand.
Workers must pay close attention to detail because a mistake in the
cutting process can ruin many yards of material.  In more automated
firms, electronic copies of layouts are sent to computer-controlled
cutting machines.  Workers then monitor the machine.  Once the
material has been cut, it is ready to be sewn together into a shirt,
knapsack, dress, or other product.

   Most sewing is done by sewing machine operators, who are classified
by the type of machine and the type of product on which they work.
Because each product requires a variety of sewing operations and all
of these cannot be done on the same machine companies producing
apparel have many types of specialized sewing machines.  Sewing
machine operators' skills vary by the type of machine on which they
work.

   Sewing machine operators are also categorized by the specific
product they produce.  The most basic division, however, is between
sewing machine operators who produce clothing and those who produce
such items as towels, sheets, and curtains.  Both garment and
nongarment machine operators usually specialize in a single
operation, such as bindings, collars, or hems.

   Because of the value and delicate nature of some materials, sewing
may be done by hand rather than on a machine.  Hand sewers are
highly skilled workers who may specialize in a particular operation,
such as sewing buttonholes or adding lace or other trimming.  They
also may work with the designer to make a sample of a new product.

   When sewing operations have been completed, workers remove loose
threads, basting stitching, and lint from the finished product.
Final inspection of the product may be done at this time.

   The shape and appearance of certain finished products depend, to a
large extent, on the pressing that is done at different stages of
production.  Pressing may be done by hand or by pressing machines.
Some pressers specialize in a particular garment part; others are
responsible for the final pressing before the product is shipped to
the store.

   Not all apparel goods are mass produced.  Some people prefer
clothing made especially for them.  Custom tailors make garments
from start to finish including taking measurements and helping the
customer select the right fabric and must be knowledgeable in all
phases of clothing production.  Many work in retail outlets, where
they make alterations and adjustments to ready-to-wear clothing.

   Inspectors are found in all stages of the production process.  (For
a more detailed discussion of this occupation, see the statement on
inspectors, testers, and graders elsewhere in the Handbook.) They
may mark defects in uncut fabric so that layout workers can position
the pattern to avoid them, or they may mark defects in semifinished
garments, which they may repair themselves or send back to be
mended.

   Many apparel workers are employed by small firms that lack the
capital resources to invest in new, more efficient equipment.
Because of this, the nature of the work for many apparel workers has
been less affected by the increased use of technology.
Nevertheless, in larger firms that have modernized their facilities,
some operations are computerized, and some of the product-moving
operations are done by automated material handling systems.  In
addition, many firms increasingly are using modular manufacturing
systems.  In these systems, which often reduce production time while
increasing product quality, operators work together in a module or
group.  Although each worker specializes in one operation, most are
cross-trained in the various operations performed within the group.
Not only do operators have more communication with other workers,
they are also given responsibility for running the module, including
correcting problems, scheduling, and monitoring standards.

   Opportunities for apparel workers should be best for those
interested in a job as a custom tailor or pressing machine operator.

Working Conditions

Working conditions in apparel production vary by establishment and
by the type of job.  Older factories tend to be congested and poorly
lit and ventilated, but more modern facilities are usually better
planned, have more work space, and are well lighted and ventilated.
Some new facilities are even carpeted.  Due to the nature of the
work and the machinery being used, sewing and pressing areas are
usually noisy, whereas patternmaking and spreading areas are
quieter.  Laundries and drycleaning establishments are often hot and
noisy; retail stores, on the other hand, generally are relatively
quiet and comfortable.

   Most persons in apparel occupations work a standard 5-day, 35- to
40-hour week.  Some apparel manufacturers are adding a second shift
to justify the expense of new machinery.  Also, those employed in
retail stores and in laundry and drycleaning establishments may work
evening and weekend hours.

   Apparel production work can be physically demanding.  Some workers
sit for long periods, and others spend long hours on their feet,
leaning over tables and operating machinery.  However, new machinery
and production techniques have decreased the physical demand upon
workers.  For example, newer pressing machines are now operated by
foot pedals or computer controls and don't require much strength to
operate.  Although there are no serious dangers or health hazards
associated with apparel occupations, operators must be attentive
while running equipment such as sewing machines, pressers, and
automated cutters.  A few workers must use protective devices such
as gloves.

   In some areas of apparel production, the emphasis on individual
performance is shifting to an emphasis on teamwork and cooperation.
Incentive programs may also be based on a team's performance.  The
team or module often has managerial authority over itself,
increasing the overall responsibility of each operator and allowing
more interpersonal contact.  It also means that groups and
individual sewing machine operators are under pressure to improve
their performance while maintaining quality.

Employment

Apparel workers held 986,000 jobs in 1992.  Almost 70 percent were
sewing machine operators.  Table 1 shows the distribution of apparel
worker employment by detailed occupation.  Production jobs are
concentrated in California, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania,
Tennessee, and Georgia.  Most of these jobs are in the apparel and
textile industries, except for pressers and custom tailors.
Although pressing operations are an integral part of the apparel
production process, more than one-half of all pressers are employed
in the laundry and drycleaning industry.  In addition, more than
one-half of all custom tailors work in retail clothing
establishments; many others are self-employed.  For both of these
occupations, jobs are found in every part of the country.


Table 1.  Distribution of apparel workers by detailed occupation,
1992

Total (percent)...............................................100

Garment sewing machine operators...............................56
Nongarment sewing machine operators............................13
Custom tailors and sewers......................................11
Pressing machine operators..................................... 8
Hand cutters and trimmers...................................... 5
Hand sewers.................................................... 2
Patternmakers and layout workers............................... 2
Hand pressers.................................................. 2
Portable machine cutters....................................... 1

SOURCE: Bureau of Labor Statistics

Training, Other Qualifications, and Advancement

Training requirements vary by industry.  In the apparel industry,
for example, few employers require a high school diploma or previous
work experience.  Nevertheless, entrants with secondary or
postsecondary vocational training or previous work experience in
apparel production usually have a better chance of getting a job and
advancing to a supervisory position.

   Retailers prefer to hire custom tailors and sewers with previous
experience in apparel manufacture, design, or alterations.
Knowledge of fabrics, design, and construction is very important.
Although laundries and drycleaners prefer entrants with previous
work experience, employers routinely hire inexperienced workers.

   Apparel workers need good hand-eye coordination and the ability to
perform repetitious tasks for long periods.  Knowledge of fabrics
and their characteristics is sometimes required.

   Regardless of setting, workers usually begin by performing simple
tasks.  As they gain experience, they are assigned more difficult
operations.  Further advancement is limited, however.  Some
production workers may become first-line supervisors, but the
majority remain on the production line.  Occasionally, a
patternmaker may advance to designer, but usually only after
additional training at a design school.  Some experienced custom
tailors open their own tailoring shop.  Custom tailoring is a very
competitive field, however, and training in small business operation
can mean the difference between success and failure.

   Machinery operators are usually trained on the job by more
experienced employees or by machinery manufacturers'
representatives.  However, as machinery in the industry continues to
become more complex, apparel workers will need more training,
especially in computers and electronics.  For example, some workers
use computers to determine the best layout and then electronically
send the layout to an automated cutting machine.  In addition, the
trend toward cross-training of operators will increase the time
needed to learn different machines as well as increase an operator's
skills.

Job Outlook

The job outlook of apparel workers depends largely on conditions in
the apparel industry, where most apparel workers are employed.
Increased imports, use of offshore assembly, and greater
productivity through the introduction of laborsaving machinery
should reduce demand for these workers, so employment of apparel
workers is expected to decline through the year 2005.  Because of
the large size of this occupation, however, many thousands of job
openings will arise each year from the need to replace persons who
transfer to other occupations, retire, or leave the occupation for
other reasons.

   Employment in the domestic apparel industry has declined in recent
years as foreign producers have gained a greater share of the U.S.
market.  To avoid losing more of the market, domestic manufacturers
are developing the ability to respond more quickly to changes in
market demand and to take advantage of their closeness to U.S.
markets.

   One strategy that domestic manufacturers have adopted to reduce
costs is the use of offshore assembly.  A provision in U.S.  tariff
regulations allows manufacturers to cut the pieces of fabric in the
United States and ship them to other countries for assembly.  This
enables the most labor-intensive step in the production process
sewing to be done at much lower wage rates.  This trend is expected
to continue, and will curtail job opportunities for sewing machine
operators in the United States.  However, because the pre-sewing
functions are done domestically, they will not be adversely
affected.

   Despite advances in technology, extensive use of automated equipment
is difficult due to the soft properties of textile products.  In
addition, it is time consuming and expensive to adapt existing
technology to the wide variety of items produced and the frequent
style and seasonal changes.  However, some of the larger firms and
those that produce standardized items have automated pre-sewing
functions and very simple sewing procedures and have automated
material handling.  Technological developments such as
computer-aided marking and grading, computer-controlled cutters,
semiautomatic sewing and pressing machines, and automated material
handling systems have increased output while reducing the need for
workers.

   Opportunities should be best for those interested in a job as a
custom tailor or pressing machine operator.  Many of these workers
are employed by retail establishments and by laundries and
drycleaners.  These employers are unaffected by imports and are
unable to move operations abroad.  Employers in some locations are
having difficulty attracting enough of these workers; as a result,
those with the appropriate skills and background should find ample
opportunities.

Earnings

Earnings of apparel workers vary by industry and by occupation.
Average weekly earnings of production workers in the apparel
industry were $258 in 1992, compared to $469 for production workers
in all manufacturing industries.  However, earnings vary
significantly depending on the product being manufactured.  Average
weekly earnings ranged from a low of $213 in firms producing women's
blouses and shirts to a high of $432 in establishments making
automotive and apparel trimmings.

   Sewing machine operators accounting for 7 of every 10 apparel
workers had median weekly earnings of $217 in 1992.

   Because many production workers in apparel manufacturing are paid
according to the number of acceptable pieces they or their group
produce, their total earnings depend on skill, speed, and accuracy.

   Benefits also vary.  Those offered by large employers usually
include paid holidays and vacations, health and life insurance
coverage, and increasingly, child care.  Those employed in retail
trade also may receive a discount of 10 to 30 percent on their
purchases.  In addition, some of the larger manufacturers operate
company stores, where employees can purchase apparel products at
significant discounts.  Some small firms, however, may offer only
limited benefits.  In addition to employer-sponsored benefits, the
two principal unions, the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers
Union and the International Ladies Garment Workers Union, provide
benefits to their members.

Related Occupations

The work of apparel workers varies from that requiring very little
skill and training to that which is highly complex, requiring
several years of training.  Those operating machinery and equipment,
such as pressing or sewing machine operators, perform duties similar
to metalworking and plastics-working machine operators, textile
operatives, and shoe sewing machine operators.  Other workers who
perform handwork are precision woodworkers, precision assemblers,
and shoe and leather workers.  Workers who require an in-depth
knowledge of the materials with which they work include
upholsterers, tool and die makers, and precision welders.

Sources of Additional Information

   Information regarding careers in apparel may be obtained from
numerous colleges and universities that have specialized textile and
apparel programs.  A list of these can be found in college guides.
In addition, the local office of the State employment service or an
apparel manufacturer can provide information on job opportunities in
a specific area.

   For general information on the apparel industry, write to:

   American Apparel Manufacturers Association, 2500 Wilson Blvd., Suite
301, Arlington, VA 22201.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
!