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hist_text-digest      Thursday, February 17 2000      Volume 01 : Number 467



In this issue:

-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá MtMan-List: off topic
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: red river carts
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Period Bibles.
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
-áááááá MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette
-áááááá Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 07:54:36 -0700
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

John and Bill,

Thanks for the info. I agree with the dry heat and green bending of wood
principals. The use of dry heat for bows has long been the accepted fashion
for them, just didn't consider it practical for snowshoes.

Bows are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inches at the bend and the width adds the
strength. bending is along the horizontal axis only.

Of course using those same dimentions on snowshoes would be rediculous.
Shaped staves by drawknife and spokeshave such as I have made are about 3/4
inches square at the body and 1/2 inches at the bent tips. The bends are
not only along the horizontal axis, but also the verticle to give them the
lifted tip, so bending is in two directions. I just can't picture dry heat
being able to handle that without the grain splitting out.

Using green staves is a definite possibility. My partner Candoo made some
out of 1 1/2" aspen branches. Heavy, but they worked...sort of, but that's
another story.

Laminated wood, I agree is not new, and thanks for the education on that
one John. I've never seen any snowshoes newer than 50 years that used
laminated wood, not that they didn't exist. The snowshoes I made are loosly
copied from Catlin's "Snowshoe Dance" which pictures both Ojibwa and
Michigan styles with what appear to be squared staves, not branches and
definitely not laminated.

As to Ash wood, I had a cabinet maker friend, when preparing his stock, and
when practical, trim off the straightest grain edges he could find for me.
I have enough for two or three more pairs going about it that way. Some
ash, some maple.

Vic



Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
AMM #1537
Three Rivers Party

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hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:36:07 -0400
From: Bob Spencer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

>Spar varnish is no more nor less than a made up name to describe some
>manufacturer's exterior varnish.  It has become a generic name that means
>NOTHING.

I was always under the impression that it referred to the masts, booms,
etc. on ships and boats, which are called spars, and that it was a good
quality exterior varnish appropriate to use on them. Is that not right?

Bob

Bob Spencer <[e-mail]>



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:09:53 -0800
From: [e-mail] (Bill Cunningham)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Heat will work - and work well. You just have to be careful not to burn the
wood. If the wood has any knots, even tiny ones, it does tend to blow out
when bending if you don't have it hot enough. You can also cut a 6" steel
pipe open, plug the ends, and boil the things. This generally avoids
blowouts, but you only have about two minutes to work it.  The dimensions
will be about 3/4 inch in the center, tapering to 1/2 inch at the ends.
Makes them nice and light and workable.
Bill
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes


>John and Bill,
>
>Thanks for the info. I agree with the dry heat and green bending of wood
>principals. The use of dry heat for bows has long been the accepted fashion
>for them, just didn't consider it practical for snowshoes.
>
>Bows are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inches at the bend and the width adds the
>strength. bending is along the horizontal axis only.
>
>Of course using those same dimentions on snowshoes would be rediculous.
>Shaped staves by drawknife and spokeshave such as I have made are about 3/4
>inches square at the body and 1/2 inches at the bent tips. The bends are
>not only along the horizontal axis, but also the verticle to give them the
>lifted tip, so bending is in two directions. I just can't picture dry heat
>being able to handle that without the grain splitting out.
>
>Using green staves is a definite possibility. My partner Candoo made some
>out of 1 1/2" aspen branches. Heavy, but they worked...sort of, but that's
>another story.
>
>Laminated wood, I agree is not new, and thanks for the education on that
>one John. I've never seen any snowshoes newer than 50 years that used
>laminated wood, not that they didn't exist. The snowshoes I made are loosly
>copied from Catlin's "Snowshoe Dance" which pictures both Ojibwa and
>Michigan styles with what appear to be squared staves, not branches and
>definitely not laminated.
>
>As to Ash wood, I had a cabinet maker friend, when preparing his stock, and
>when practical, trim off the straightest grain edges he could find for me.
>I have enough for two or three more pairs going about it that way. Some
>ash, some maple.
>
>Vic
>
>
>
>Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
>AMM #1537
>Three Rivers Party
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:36:21 -0600
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Vic,

If you are working with kiln dried sawn wood you may have a problem.  Steam
may
be your only choice if you use the ash.

Using wood native to the area of use is always correct.  Scrub oak, or
mountain
mahogany would be the best Rocky Mountain area choices.  Choke cherry would
work or red river birch wouldn't be too bad, fir would make acceptable
snowshoes.  Aspen would be near to my last choice along with cottonwood.

I suspect more people made their own in the mountains from native wood than
were brought in from areas growing ash, hickory and other hardwoods we
consider
the best to use today.

Snowshoes (like bows) should be made of riven wood with full length grain
running through the split.  Dry heat bending is not a problem even in larger
sizes.  Use the maple for cross pieces.  Mortise and tenon for strength.

John...

At 07:54 AM 2/16/00 -0700, you wrote:
>John and Bill,
>
>Thanks for the info. I agree with the dry heat and green bending of wood
>principals. The use of dry heat for bows has long been the accepted fashion
>for them, just didn't consider it practical for snowshoes.
>
>Bows are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inches at the bend and the width adds the
>strength. bending is along the horizontal axis only.
>
>Of course using those same dimentions on snowshoes would be rediculous.
>Shaped staves by drawknife and spokeshave such as I have made are about 3/4
>inches square at the body and 1/2 inches at the bent tips. The bends are
>not only along the horizontal axis, but also the verticle to give them the
>lifted tip, so bending is in two directions. I just can't picture dry heat
>being able to handle that without the grain splitting out.
>
>Using green staves is a definite possibility. My partner Candoo made some
>out of 1 1/2" aspen branches. Heavy, but they worked...sort of, but that's
>another story.
>
>Laminated wood, I agree is not new, and thanks for the education on that
>one John. I've never seen any snowshoes newer than 50 years that used
>laminated wood, not that they didn't exist. The snowshoes I made are loosly
>copied from Catlin's "Snowshoe Dance" which pictures both Ojibwa and
>Michigan styles with what appear to be squared staves, not branches and
>definitely not laminated.
>
>As to Ash wood, I had a cabinet maker friend, when preparing his stock, and
>when practical, trim off the straightest grain edges he could find for me.
>I have enough for two or three more pairs going about it that way. Some
>ash, some maple.
>
>Vic
>
>
>
>Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
>AMM #1537
>Three Rivers Party
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info:
<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>
Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
John Kramer  <[e-mail]>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:52:43 -0600
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

That has been the allusion over the past several years.  Old references to
"spar" varnish don't exist.

John...


At 11:36 AM 2/16/00 -0400, you wrote:
>>Spar varnish is no more nor less than a made up name to describe some
>>manufacturer's exterior varnish.=A0 It has become a generic name that=
 means
>>NOTHING.
>
>I was always under the impression that it referred to the masts, booms,
>etc. on ships and boats, which are called spars, and that it was a good
>quality exterior varnish appropriate to use on them. Is that not right?
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Spencer <[e-mail]>
>
>
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info:
<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>=20
Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
John Kramer  <[e-mail]>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:58:11 -0400
From: Bob Spencer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

>That has been the allusion over the past several years.  Old references to
>"spar" varnish don't exist.

I didn't mean to imply that it was used on spars in our period of interest.
I know that wasn't the case. I know from personal experience, though, that
it's been used that way for the last 50 years, or so.

Bob

Bob Spencer <[e-mail]>



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:11:15 -0700
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Thanks John,

Maybe for my next pair I will try local wood, rive it and try the dry heat
bending. Although I am satisfied the ones I made are period, I will admit
they would have been the type that were "manufactured" east of the Shining
Mountains (aside from the sawn kiln dried staves) and not a product that
would have been made "in the field". Always some new project on the horizon
eh?

Vic

>Vic,
>
>If you are working with kiln dried sawn wood you may have a problem.  Steam
>may
>be your only choice if you use the ash.
>
>Using wood native to the area of use is always correct.  Scrub oak, or
>mountain
>mahogany would be the best Rocky Mountain area choices.  Choke cherry would
>work or red river birch wouldn't be too bad, fir would make acceptable
>snowshoes.  Aspen would be near to my last choice along with cottonwood.
>
>I suspect more people made their own in the mountains from native wood than
>were brought in from areas growing ash, hickory and other hardwoods we
>consider
>the best to use today.
>
>Snowshoes (like bows) should be made of riven wood with full length grain
>running through the split.  Dry heat bending is not a problem even in larger
>sizes.  Use the maple for cross pieces.  Mortise and tenon for strength.
>
>John...
>
>At 07:54 AM 2/16/00 -0700, you wrote:
>>John and Bill,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I agree with the dry heat and green bending of wood
>>principals. The use of dry heat for bows has long been the accepted fashion
>>for them, just didn't consider it practical for snowshoes.
>>
>>Bows are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inches at the bend and the width adds the
>>strength. bending is along the horizontal axis only.
>>
>>Of course using those same dimentions on snowshoes would be rediculous.
>>Shaped staves by drawknife and spokeshave such as I have made are about 3/4
>>inches square at the body and 1/2 inches at the bent tips. The bends are
>>not only along the horizontal axis, but also the verticle to give them the
>>lifted tip, so bending is in two directions. I just can't picture dry heat
>>being able to handle that without the grain splitting out.
>>
>>Using green staves is a definite possibility. My partner Candoo made some
>>out of 1 1/2" aspen branches. Heavy, but they worked...sort of, but that's
>>another story.
>>
>>Laminated wood, I agree is not new, and thanks for the education on that
>>one John. I've never seen any snowshoes newer than 50 years that used
>>laminated wood, not that they didn't exist. The snowshoes I made are loosly
>>copied from Catlin's "Snowshoe Dance" which pictures both Ojibwa and
>>Michigan styles with what appear to be squared staves, not branches and
>>definitely not laminated.
>>
>>As to Ash wood, I had a cabinet maker friend, when preparing his stock, and
>>when practical, trim off the straightest grain edges he could find for me.
>>I have enough for two or three more pairs going about it that way. Some
>>ash, some maple.
>>
>>Vic
>>
>>
>>
>>Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
>>AMM #1537
>>Three Rivers Party
>>
>>----------------------
>>hist_text list info:
><http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
>~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>>
>Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
>John Kramer  <[e-mail]>
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html

Vic Nathan Barkin CGCM
Printing and Reproduction Services Manager
Northern Arizona University
Office of Public Affairs and Marketing
Creative Communications Department
Box 4101, Flagstaff, Az 86011
ph. 520-523-6160   fax [phone]

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 12:47:25 -0700
From: "Walt Foster" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Hello around the fire,  I learned to snowshoe 35 years ago in Alaska.  My
snowshoeing experience in and around Chisana served me well for another 15
years hunting in Montana.  As mentioned the first problem I learned to deal
with was the weight in relation to the snow.  Mainly where I was at in
Alaska and here in Montana we deal with dry snow conditions.  In both places
I perfered the long trail shoes.  I found out that I needed a pair of shoes
as tall as I was in order to carry my weight about 160 pounds then plus the
40 pounds of gear that I carried on extended hunts on snow shoes.  The last
elk packed out in quarters was in snow more than 5 feet deep on the level.
The hind quarter I carried weighed 137 pounds with the hide off.  Big shoes
are needed for this work.  When I returned from Alaska in the mid 60s I
relocated in Great Falls, Montana.  I picked that place so I could hunt the
Eastern Front Range of the Rockies.  One spot I used snowshoes at was on the
big ridged between the Orginal Lewis and Clark Pass and the highway.  When
there is no snow you can come around and go up Alice Creek.  I use snow
shoes and went by the way of Green Mountain.  Once up on top I could take
the snow shoes off and hunt on the wind blown flats on top of the long wide
grassy ridge.  I hunted there for 3 years before I looked for easier hunting
grounds.
Badgerhole
Park City, Montana


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:53:16 -0800
From: "Roger Lahti" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: off topic

Please ignore this send/transmit test.



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:49:21 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: red river carts

Lanney....thanks for the pictures! It took me a while do download in the MIME
format, but well worth the wait. Who's that rascal driving? ....think I've
spotted him in the post office pics.....<G>.
Those are beautiful carts! The only thing I see that may differ is the wheels
on the cart in Calgary were much bigger...like over 6 foot high and of course
the cart was big too. Angela Gottfred pointed out that the one I saw was
actually a reproduction. I gather though, they did come in most all shapes
and sizes, very large wheels, and being held together with only wood pegs and
buffalo raw hide...
.....gotta have one!
Thanks.
Ymos,
Steve


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:08:12 -0600
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Vic,

yep, I calculated it up one day and figure I'll get most of the projects I
have
in mind done if I only live 4000 years.

John...


At 12:11 PM 2/16/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks John,
>
>Maybe for my next pair I will try local wood, rive it and try the dry heat
>bending. Although I am satisfied the ones I made are period, I will admit
>they would have been the type that were "manufactured" east of the Shining
>Mountains (aside from the sawn kiln dried staves) and not a product that
>would have been made "in the field". Always some new project on the horizon
>eh?
>
>Vic
>
>>Vic,
>>
>>If you are working with kiln dried sawn wood you may have a problem.=A0=
 Steam
>>may
>>be your only choice if you use the ash.
>>
>>Using wood native to the area of use is always correct.=A0 Scrub oak, or
>>mountain
>>mahogany would be the best Rocky Mountain area choices.=A0 Choke cherry=
 would
>>work or red river birch wouldn't be too bad, fir would make acceptable
>>snowshoes.=A0 Aspen would be near to my last choice along with cottonwood.
>>
>>I suspect more people made their own in the mountains from native wood=
 than
>>were brought in from areas growing ash, hickory and other hardwoods we
>>consider
>>the best to use today.
>>
>>Snowshoes (like bows) should be made of riven wood with full length grain
>>running through the split.=A0 Dry heat bending is not a problem even in=
 larger
>>sizes.=A0 Use the maple for cross pieces.=A0 Mortise and tenon for=
 strength.
>>
>>John...
>>
>>At 07:54 AM 2/16/00 -0700, you wrote:
>>>John and Bill,
>>>
>>>Thanks for the info. I agree with the dry heat and green bending of wood
>>>principals. The use of dry heat for bows has long been the accepted=
 fashion
>>>for them, just didn't consider it practical for snowshoes.
>>>
>>>Bows are usually 1/4 to 3/8 inches at the bend and the width adds the
>>>strength. bending is along the horizontal axis only.
>>>
>>>Of course using those same dimentions on snowshoes would be rediculous.
>>>Shaped staves by drawknife and spokeshave such as I have made are about=
 3/4
>>>inches square at the body and 1/2 inches at the bent tips. The bends are
>>>not only along the horizontal axis, but also the verticle to give them=
 the
>>>lifted tip, so bending is in two directions. I just can't picture dry=
 heat
>>>being able to handle that without the grain splitting out.
>>>
>>>Using green staves is a definite possibility. My partner Candoo made some
>>>out of 1 1/2" aspen branches. Heavy, but they worked...sort of, but=
 that's
>>>another story.
>>>
>>>Laminated wood, I agree is not new, and thanks for the education on that
>>>one John. I've never seen any snowshoes newer than 50 years that used
>>>laminated wood, not that they didn't exist. The snowshoes I made are=
 loosly
>>>copied from Catlin's "Snowshoe Dance" which pictures both Ojibwa and
>>>Michigan styles with what appear to be squared staves, not branches and
>>>definitely not laminated.
>>>
>>>As to Ash wood, I had a cabinet maker friend, when preparing his stock,=
 and
>>>when practical, trim off the straightest grain edges he could find for=
 me.
>>>I have enough for two or three more pairs going about it that way. Some
>>>ash, some maple.
>>>
>>>Vic
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
>>>AMM #1537
>>>Three Rivers Party
>>>
>>>----------------------
>>>hist_text list info:
>><<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.
com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html><http://www.xmission.com/>http://www.xmissio
n.com/
>>~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>>>
>>Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
>>John Kramer=A0 <[e-mail]>
>>
>>----------------------
>>hist_text list info:
<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>
>Vic Nathan Barkin CGCM
>Printing and Reproduction Services Manager
>Northern Arizona University
>Office of Public Affairs and Marketing
>Creative Communications Department
>Box 4101, Flagstaff, Az 86011
>ph. 520-523-6160=A0=A0 fax [phone]
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info:
<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>=20
Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
John Kramer  <[e-mail]>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:23:30 -0800
From: "jdearing" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Period Bibles.

>
> > Does anyone know where I can get a modern copy of a period bible?
Thanks
> > for any help you can provide.
> >
The 1611 version of the King James Bible, used by Prodestants of the period,
is still
avalable from some Christian Book Stores. 1611 was  the year the Bible was
first published.

The Cathoics used the Douay-Rheims Version. The English College of Douay,
France
published the New Testament at Rheims in 1582. The College published the Old
Testament at Douay in 1609. The 1752 revision by Bishop Challoner remained
the
de facto standard Catholic version until the 1950's.

Delea Sayers  5501 Heathercrest Arlington Tx. 76018  [phone]
[e-mail]  can reemove thee modern cover and bind your Bible
in leather, or he may be able to supply you with a rebound Bible.

J.D.




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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 01:34:30 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)

In a message dated 2/15/00 5:01:21 AM, [e-mail] writes:

<<  I do not regret
the four blankets I packed in.... >>

Lee.... The 4 blankets you used, were they all wool 4 point and did you use
anything other than the fir boughs to sleep on? I would have thought 2
blankets would have been enough.... if you had mebbe a sheep hide to sleep
on. Sure makes for a long night huggin a burning log to stay warm....
Ymos,
Steve

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 02:59:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Lee Newbill <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)

On Thu, 17 Feb 2000 [e-mail] wrote:
> Lee.... The 4 blankets you used, were they all wool 4 point and did you use
> anything other than the fir boughs to sleep on?

Hallo Steve

My bedroll consisted of two four point whitney blankets, a surplus east
german army blanket, and an old, thin US army blanket (all 100%
wool) .... the whole thing wrapped in a 10x10 heavy canvas tarp.  The
blankets were folded once down the long axis, so I (theoretically) slept
on four layers and the fir boughs, and had four layers on top... I say
theoretically, because the smaller german blanket bunched up and didna do
much good, so it wound up underneath... had I taken a hair-on robe of
sheep, buffalo, bear or what have you, I could have probably tossed two of
the blankets since my main concern was keeping the ground chill
off.  Could have cut more boughs to sleep on too, and that would have
helped.

Another thing that would have helped would have been to secure the
blankets together somehow at the folded edge, or maybe to fold the
blankets into three folds as mentioned by someone else... every now and
then I would move and open that bloody fold, and the cold would rush
in.

Cliff brought a mat of cattails to sleep on, on top of the boughs.  He
used only two blankets and a canvas cover (If I remember
rightly).  Judging by his snoring, I would say he slept well<G> Course, he
did sleep with his feet dang near in the fire, so that might help too.

Something else that occured to me long after I had crawled into my
robes... was digging out a small depression in the snow for my hips.  This
was something I didna think of until the stars were far overhead.  I did
bash a depression in the snow later through the blankets and boughs, and
that helped a lot as it lets the body relax into a natural contour.  It's
not something you notice right away, but becomes more important after
you've lain there for a while.

> Sure makes for a long night huggin a burning log to stay warm....

Been there, done that.  That's why I overpacked this time.  Still working
all the different angles on this... learning all the time.

Your Most Obedient Servant...

Lee Newbill of Viola, Idaho
Clerk of the Hog Heaven Muzzleloaders
http://www.geocities.com/~lnewbill


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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:30:22 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)

In a message dated 2/17/00 2:59:50 AM, [e-mail] writes:

<< the whole thing wrapped in a 10x10 heavy canvas tarp.  >>

Sounds like a kinda cold night! Did you use the 10X10 trap as a ground cloth
or for your shelter? The coldest I've been, other than fallin through the
ice, has been when the ground draws the heat from you.....warm on top,
freezin on the bottom! You could hear ya pores slam shut every time ya rolled
overrrr......<G>

Tell us what size and style your snow shoes were.....and just how "round" you
are. I used the "Alaskan" model, in Alaska (duh), for years in kinda deep
snow, in kinda open country, and liked them but understand they are not quite
"period"....and I'm rather round.  I need something else when I talk Capt
Lahti into takin me on a wander...

Ymos,

Steve

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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:56:20 -0800
From: Randal J Bublitz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt (somewhat windy)

Hi Lee,         I'd suggest one, or two, of those Celtic pins for keeping
your blakets in place and together. These pins can be had through Jas.
Townsend, and many other suppliers.  I use a 6 point Whitney, I fold the
bottom edge up a foot and pin in place.  This provides extra coverage on
my feet.  I learned a neat trick after a cold night.  I noticed one
fellow seemed pretty chipper after a cold night in the Sierras.  Then I
remembered he kept fooling with these rocks in the fire the night before.
 I asked him about it.  As it turns out, he was heating rocks (about
football size, more or less) in the fire.  Then he would roll them out
before bedtime to let them cool enough not to burn him or his blankets.
He'd slip the warm rocks into linen sacks and put one near the foot of
his bedroll, and one in the middle.  After they had been there awhile he
crawled in.  As the night progressed he'd check the rocks, and kick them
out of the way when they had cooled.  I tried this the next night.  What
a difference this made.  The first night my feet hurt so bad, due to the
cold.  After sleeping with warm rocks, I woke up in the morning perfectly
comfortable.  After this trip I ordered the 6 pt. blanket.  I'm 6'2", and
in the cold of night when I pull blankets over my head, my feet stick out
of the 4 pt. blanket.  Hope this helps.          hardtack

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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:37:47 -0600
From: "northwoods" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: February 16, 2000 1:50 AM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes


> You can carry a little dry flake and cut
>it with cheap rot gut whiskey in a real emergency.

As far as shellac flakes go, I got a catalog yesterday that lists button,
garnet, lemon, orange, and blonde de-waxed for sale. It doesn't give any
description other than that. I was wondering what the difference is between
them if there are any. The blonde de-waxed is 16.95$ and the rest are 13.95$
a pound.

northwoods


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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:04:56 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette

Gentlemen:

Do you think it would be proper for a woman to sign her post

YMOS

Or is the phrase genderspecific?  If so, what would you suggest?  ("Humbly", is out of the question.)

Laura Glise
[e-mail]

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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:15:10 -0700
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette

Laura,

It's generally the male of the species that puts their "sign" on a post!
But hey, it's a free country so put your sign wherever you like. Just
make sure some big hairy critter ain't signing the post at the same time!
; )

Todd Glover
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:21:04 -0500
From: tom roberts <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette

Gentlemen?? Where?  Haven't seen any of them around these parts in ages!

I see no reason why "YMOS" from a female would be improper, in fact,
I kinda like it.<G>

Tom

Published yet????



[e-mail] wrote:

> Gentlemen:
>
> Do you think it would be proper for a woman to sign her post
>
> YMOS
>
> Or is the phrase genderspecific?  If so, what would you suggest?  ("Humbly", is out of the question.)
>
> Laura Glise
> [e-mail]
>
> ----------------------
> hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:56:45 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Proper etiquette

In a message dated 2/17/00 5:07:00 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<<
Or is the phrase genderspecific?  If so, what would you suggest?  ("Humbly",
is out of the question.)
 >>

Angela Gottfred ends her post with the following and I believe she's quite up
on the proper etiquette....
<<<<<Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred>>>>>

Ymos,
Steve

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Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:53:59 -0600
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes

Button lac is the crudest form of shellac available in the country today. =
 All
of the others describe various levels of refinement where the natural wax=
 and
resin is removed a little at a time.

Super blonde, white or clear (all about the same thing) are not very useful.=
=20
They are mostly used as "confectioners glaze" and sprayed on candy to make=
 it
shiny.

I usually prefer button lac which must be strained through cheesecloth=
 before
use to remove body hairs and bug parts. =20

Want to know more?  Once in solution it has a shelf life of about one week=
 for
most cabinetmaker purposes.

Remember only the finest candy is made with real shellac, real bug poop. =
 Just
like only the finest perfume is made with real whale puke.

John...




At 04:37 PM 2/17/00 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: February 16, 2000 1:50 AM
>Subject: Re: MtMan-List: A Short Winter's Jaunt- snowshoes
>
>
>> You can carry a little dry flake and cut
>>it with cheap rot gut whiskey in a real emergency.
>
>As far as shellac flakes go, I got a catalog yesterday that lists button,
>garnet, lemon, orange, and blonde de-waxed for sale. It doesn't give any
>description other than that. I was wondering what the difference is between
>them if there are any. The blonde de-waxed is 16.95$ and the rest are=
 13.95$
>a pound.
>
>northwoods
>
>
>----------------------
>hist_text list info:
<http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html>http://www.xmission.com/
~drudy/mtman/maillist.html
>=20
John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0

Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>=20


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