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hist_text-digest      Thursday, January 14 1999      Volume 01 : Number 220




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 21:57:21 +0000
From: [e-mail] (RANDAL J BUBLITZ)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

Those Texans aren't so tough, me and my five brothers beat one up
yesterday...Hardtack <s>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 08:24:08 -0700
From: "Kurt Westenbarger" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Boiling water and Giardia

I guess I'll wade into this one a little.  I think it would be better to
rephrase as 'water can't be sterilized by boiling'.  In Yellowstone
Park, where I work as a private naturalist guide, there are Thermophiles
(hot water loving organisims, bacteria mostly) that thrive under ground,
under pressure in water of 240+F.  Considering that 212F is surface
water boiling temperature at sea level, 198F for surface water in
Yellowstone, I think it's evident that boiling will not kill
everything.  ( I recently heard a scientist studying thermophiles say
"we currently don't know the upper temperture limit of life")  However,
according to a course I took to get a Wilderness First Responder
Certificate there are no known infectious organisims able to survive
154F.  If that's true then then boiling will at least render water safe
to drink at most altitudes normal people will visit.  It also means that
surface water used in topical first aid should be chemically treated
(providone iodine) to sterilize to discourage non-infectious critters
from attacking dead or dying flesh.

A quick word of Giardia.  That same First Responder Course said that the
majority of giardia infections in humans show no symptoms whatsoever.
Most people infected are unknown carriers and distributors of the
organisim.  No doubt humans are responsible for the diseases rapid
spread throughout the world but the no symptoms thing surprised me.  So
I talked a doctor into testing me since I did often drink at spring
sources but filter everything else with a very good filter.  Sure enough
I carried the bug and had no symptoms.  Boiling will kill giardia by the
way.  Now I filter everything.

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 10:29:08 EST
From: [e-mail] (Ted A Hart)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

Ok ok so some Texicans can be beat up <BG> but there are too many people
movin' in Texas nowdays then after donning an cowboy hat and boots they
think they're bonafide Texicans....yeah right!  Those people give
Texicans a bad name <G>  But when I was in college in NY attending
Rochester Institute of Technology my fraternity had the largest
congretation of Texans! <BBG>

Ted

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:49:17 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Squaws

Here's part of the entry for 'squaw' in the _Dictionary of Canadianisms on
Historical Principles_:
'Algonk.; cf. Cree _iskwao_, woman. 1. An Indian woman, especially a wife.
N.B. Although _squaw_ is the normal and acceptable English term for an
Indian woman, it is used in some contexts, especially by white men, with
derogatory conotations. Moreover, the term is often resented by Indians who
are not Algonkian-speaking, for it is to them an English word, one having no
significance in their own languages.'
Also, in Carol (?) Judd & Arthur Ray's _Old Trails and New Directions_ (a
compilation of papers from a North American Fur Trade Conference), Jennifer
S. H. Brown has a paper called "Linguistic Solitudes", in which shelooks at
the difference in historic Canadian & American usage of words such as
'squaw' and 'half-breed'. Canadians were, she says, slower to use the word
'squaw', and never used the term 'squaw man' to mean a man who'd married a
Native woman. I've seen 'squaw' in some of my reading of pre-1821 fur trade
journals, but the word 'woman' is far more common. In some cases, 'woman' or
'girl' probably means 'wife' ; for instance, 'Mr. Grant's girl',
'Charbonneau's woman'. I don't remember seeing the word squaw used to mean
prostitute, although prostitution certainly does come up in these journals.
By the way, the _Dictionary of Canadianisms_ is still in print (Gage is the
publisher), and is quite helpful in tracking down definitions of obscure &
obsolete words from the Canadian fur trade era.

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 10:03:26 -0700
From: [e-mail] (Joe Brandl)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Mountain Man and  Grizzly

I would call that progression of history, happened in every country of the
world. Never will be the same. Native people were killed or displaced by
their own people as well as foreigners. Everyone including the native
decimated species of wildlife in certain area. Depressing? All depends on
wheather you were the one displaced or killed. No way can you choose one
culture or animal and determine that they were destroyed by WE.
Joe

Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery
Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440
Write for custom tanning prices
We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and
hair on robes
Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets
check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:50:30 EST
From: [e-mail] (Ted A Hart)
Subject: MtMan-List: Cast Iron pot seasoning

I was wondering the best way of seasoning a cast iron pot because I cook
with one and am wondering how to re-season it bec I lost the directions
on how to do that.  Anyone have experience with it?

Ted

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 13:54:44 -0500
From: "Colleen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Cast Iron pot seasoning

> I was wondering the best way of seasoning a cast iron pot because I cook
> with one and am wondering how to re-season it bec I lost the directions
> on how to do that.  Anyone have experience with it?
>
> Ted

Check this site out!  It should help.

http://www.lodgemfg.com/care.htm

Colleen
(Many Ducks)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:36:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Sam Keller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re speech patterns

A mans level of education probally had little to do woth how he spoke.
A man tends to use speech patterns to match the group he is with.



- [e-mail] wrote:
>
> I would imagine that mountain man linguistics were based on where
they were
> from,
> their level of education, and general personality. Many of the early
trappers
> were french or spanish, so I doubt they were saying "larnin'" any
more than
> Kit Carson would say "Sacre Bleu!"  By nature and pathology, human
beans like
> to label everything for identification - alas this also extends to
people, who
> can be compartmentalized on their use (or abuse) of language.
Happily,most of
> us can
> diffentiate between what a person says and how he says it.
Literature does
> not have the benefit of interpretive facial expressions and body
language, so
> characters are painted more broadly, appealing to our need to label.
>
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 16:08:48 -0500
From: "John L. Allen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Canvas lodges

Ho, the list:

During the last month or so, I've been doing some archival research that has
led me to a bunch of old (1850-1900) photographs of the central and northern
Great Plains and the northern Rockies. In virtually all of the photos
showing Indian villages, the lodges appeared to me to be of something other
than buffalo or other hide because they were so very bright. These pictures
are in black and white but from the brightness signature, I'm assuming the
color of the tepees was white and I'm further assuming that the tepee
coverings were canvas. This prompted me to try to remember whether I'd ever
seen pictures of western Indian villages in which the tepee coverings were
dark in color--and I couldn't remember a single instance.

I know that contemporary lodges that many of you use at rendezvous are
normally made of canvas and that you try to be as period-correct as you can
possibly be. This leads me to the assumption that canvas was in widespread
use among the western tribes prior to the 1840s. My question for the list
is: when did canvas come into normal use for lodges, replacing buffalo hides
among the Plains and Rockies tribes as the preferred covering for tepees?
Or, alternately, are all my assumptions above wrong and have I really
looking at hide lodges that were somehow bleached white by the elements? (A
sidebar thought occurred to me: the replacement of hides by canvas must have
been a blessing to the folks who had to set up and strike camp--usually the
women, I guess.)

I'll look forward to some solid answers from the folks who are most equipped
to know. Thanks in advance.

John

Dr. John L. Allen
21 Thomas Drive
Storrs, CT 06268
860/487-1346
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 17:41:51 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

What does all this Texian stuff have to do with this list? I'm getting pretty
sick of my e-mail being clogged up with this stuff. Take it somewhere else,
please. Thanks.

Ghosting Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 16:11:21 +0100
From: Allen Chronister <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: canvas lodges

This is in response to the message about "bright"
lodges in old photos.
first, there are many, many photos around of
buffalo hide lodges in use.  The Soule photos from
the late 1860s from the Southern Plains, for
example. Also, the Jackson photos of Shoshone and
Nez Perce camps in Wyoming and Montana,
respectively in the 70s.   In most historic photos
of buffalo hide lodge camps, lodges of varying age
are present.  The oldest lodges are very dark in
shade, especially around the smoke flaps.Newer
lodges can appear to be very light or bright or
white by contrast.
Sometimes, expecially when the lodge is at a
distance, it is difficult to specifically say
whether it is hide or not.  I usually assume that
if the lodges that you can see are hide, then most
in the same camp probably are as well.
As far as I know, Indian women did not usually
smoke the hides for a lodge before sewing them
together.  Therefore, a new lodge cover was white
and acquired color only through use.
 Cloth lodge covers:  when was the earliest
documented use?  Hopefully there will be a piece
in the Mus Fur Trade Quarterly before too much
longer (a computer crash wiped out my work)
demonstrating that cloth lodges were probably
being made in the 1840s on the Plains.  Before
that, who knows?  There is good evidence for them
in the 50s.  Angela Gottfried had posted some info
from Canada a while back, which I don't have
handy, about cloth lodges of some kind up there at
a pretty early date.
At the same time there are photos as late as 1881
from northern Montana of entire villages of
buffalo hide lodges.
Allen Chronister

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 17:17:36 -0600
From: Don Neighbors <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Cast Iron pot seasoning

The best way I have found to season a pot is to take some cooking oil
and pour some ether on a paper towel then rub it all over the pot. Not
wear it is dripping just wear you have a good film on it. Then set your
oven @ 350 degrees. Then place  the pot on the rack for around 30 to 40
minutes. this well season the pot. When after you clean it I always rub
a film of cooking oil on it. Never put it away wet it will rust. If it
ever rust , clean it with steelwool then repeat the seasoning over again
. This has always worked for me. Useing the pot over and over will
season it itself. Donnie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 19:34:22 EST
From: [e-mail] (Ted A Hart)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

Ok no problem :)  I'm getting tired of it too but I like the joking
around...any good mountain man jokes?  Clean ones please.  Thanks for the
info on cast iron pan.  Appreciated it.

Ted

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 19:53:53 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

In a message dated 1/14/99 6:36:52 PM Central Standard Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<<  I'm getting tired of it too but I like the joking
 around...any good mountain man jokes?  Clean ones please.  Thanks for the
 info on cast iron pan.  Appreciated it.

 Ted
  >>
Well, now I'm sure you've heard that Echo Canyon was so named because Jim
Bridger, when he went to sleep at the head of it, would shout: "Time to get
up, Jim"
When the echo came back to him it was.

Tom Laidlaw

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 18:51:45 -0700
From: "Barry Conner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Cast Iron pot seasoning

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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Here's an article that a friend gave me about anything you want to know =
about cast iron, he deals in old pieces and is very knowledgeable about =
cast iron, cooking, etc. You may want to file this article away for =
reference.

Buck
____________________________________________
THE CARE & FEEDING OF CAST IRON
by Brook & Barbara Elliot

We were coaxing a breakfast fire from wet wood after a night of =
thunderstorms. Everything was soaked
and sodden.
A woman from another camp, on her way to the hooters, stopped to watch =
us. For several minutes she
stared at our fireplace with a bemused look on her face. Finally, she =
approached. "Did you keep your
cookware in the tent last night?" she wanted to know.
It was our turn to look bemused. "Of coarse not," we responded, "why do =
you ask?"
Her reply really set us to thinking. "You have the only pots and pans in =
camp that aren't rusted from the
storm."
Looking around, we realized she was right. That was several years ago, =
and nothing much has changed.
At every event we attend, if it rains, skillets, kettles, and Dutch =
ovens all around us take on a red patina.
Considering how much cast iron is used in living history camps, its =
incredible how few re-enactors know how to care for it. Cast iron =
cookware must be cured, and that cure maintained properly. If done =
correctly, the iron will not rust, nor will food stick to it and burn.
The curing process is basically the same, whether you start with new or =
used cast iron. But there are
minor differences. Let's look at new cookware first.
There are three sources of new cast ironware. Two American companies --- =
Wagner and Lodge --- still
produce it. The rest comes from Asian sources. You are better off with =
the American made goods, because they are finer grained. The imports, =
though cheaper, have a course grain that is hard to cure, and which =
requires more attention once it is cured.
If you have a choice, avoid modern designs such as self-basting lids. =
They are far from being period
proper, and are more difficult to care for, because steam, condensing in =
the depressions and on the
nipples, tend to draw out the cure. The result is rust on the inside of =
the lid.
Wooden handles, while acceptable, are not authentic. What's more, they =
are likely to burn when used on an open fire.
New iron has a protective coating on it which must be removed. American =
companies use wax. The
imports are covered with a water soluble shellac. In either case, using =
straight hot water, scrub the item
with soap and a scouring pad. Use the hottest water you can stand. Once =
all the coating is removed, you will never again let soap touch the =
iron.
Let's repeat that: Do not use soap on cured cast iron. the cure is based =
on grease, and soap's job is to
remove grease. So, if you use soap, you'll be destroying the very effect =
you are trying for.
As the iron comes clean, immediately dry it and wipe a film of =
shortening over it. Originally, lard was
used for this purpose. But it has a tendency to turn rancid, so =
shortening is a better bet.
Heat your oven to 400 degrees, and put the pieces in it for about an =
hour. Remove them, and blot up any puddles of oil with a paper towel. =
Let the iron pieces cool. Do not be alarmed if, at this point, they feel =
sticky. They'll lose that when the cure is complete.
Cast iron makers instruct that ware is now ready to use, but recommend =
that you use it only for frying the
first few times. We've found that oiling and heating at least one more =
time before use makes more sense.
For camp use, the iron is only partially cured at this stage. To =
complete the cure, build a high-flamed fire.
Any fuel will serve, but
avoid softwoods because they'll deposit creosote on the iron, which is =
no good for you.
Grease the iron on all sides, fairly heavily, and sit it in the flames. =
When a good coating of soot has been deposited, turn each piece and =
brush the sooty surface with more shortening. Be sure to use a natural =
fiber brush for this, because synthetics will melt. At the appropriate =
time, turn the pieces again, and grease the first side. Remove the =
pieces from the fire, and let them cool.
Now comes the messy part. Liberally grease paper towels and use them to =
wipe off the iron. Lots of soot will come off, so you need plenty of =
towels. Try not to reapply this loose surface soot to the ware.
Your iron should now have a deep, black finish that normally takes =
months of use to acquire. What
you've done is fill-in all the pores and voids in the iron, creating a =
smooth, non-stick surface. In addition,
the black finish helps absorb and hold heat evenly.
You can use the iron right now, or clean it to remove additional soot. =
we always clean it, because we use the same cast-iron pieces at home as =
in camp, and don't want the soot messing up the kitchen stove.
Properly cleaning cast iron is the secret of maintaining the cure. Let =
us repeat: Do not use soap on cast iron, ever! Instead, all you need is =
hot (the hotter the better) water and a scrub brush.
Once again, use straight hot water from the tap, or water you've heated =
in camp. Pour a small amount (a cup or so) in the iron, and use the =
scrub brush to vigorously scour all surfaces. Rinse the surface with =
more hot water. If you are concerned about sterilization, pour boiling =
water into and over the iron after you have brushed it.
Immediately dry the iron, and wipe a thin film of shortening over it. =
This replaces any you have lost
through cooking and cleaning, and futher assures there will be no =
rusting.
Iron that=92s been used on an open fire will always have loose soot on =
the outside. Rather than dirtying the scrub brush, we use one of those =
plastic pads instead. We keep them reserved for that purpose, so the =
soot is not transferred to other cleaning products.
In camp, we only clean the insides of cast ironware. Then, before =
leaving, we wipe down the outside with shortening soaked paper towels to =
remove the loose soot.
Used cast iron requires a different approach. Depending on where you =
aquire it, you are likely to find it
coated with everything from paint (collectors are big on that), to =
crusted-on old food, to a thick coating of burned lard.
Much of this can be simply burned off by leaving the iron in a very hot =
fire. We used to heat the iron,
then plunge it into cold water. This, in effect, steam-cleaned the iron. =
But the folks at Lodge warned us
against this practice, because it can cause the iron to warp and even =
crack. We never had it happen, but why take the chance? Besides which, =
we=92ve found a better way.
First, wash the iron in hot soapy water to remove any loose crud. Then =
soak it in an acid bath.
To create this, fill a plastic drum with water, adding a quart of =
battery acid for each five gallons of water.
Let the iron sit for several days, checking it each day and mixing the =
solution to assure fresh acid is
against the iron each time. After three or four days the iron should be =
ready to clean.
At this point, follow the directions for new iron. One caution: the =
paint can be real messy, and you may
want to work outside.
The buckskinner who taught us this trick follows up with a baking soda =
bath to remove any traces of acid.
But we=92ve found that unnecessary, because you=92ll be flushing it all =
out when you wash it.
Some old iron pieces will, after the soapy water wash, look like new. =
Others will have stains that won=92t
come out no matter how hard you scrub. Don=92t worry about them, as the =
cure will cover and hide them.
Once the iron is clean, oil and cure it as usual.
By following these instructions, you=92ll never again have rusted =
cookware, unless you let rainwater sit in it for any length of time. =
Rain, almost everywhere in the country, is now at least slightly acidic. =
If you let it sit in your iron, it will eat through the cure and =
you=92ll have rust. So be sure to drain and dry any
rain-soaked ironware as soon as possible.
One final word. As you search out old cast iron in flea markets, antique =
malls, and other locations you=92ll be shocked at how high the prices =
can be. Collectors have skyrocketed the value of cast iron, especially =
that made by Griswold. So shop carefully. Overall, you=92ll find better =
bargains at flea markets and auctions than you will in antique malls and =
shops.
And don=92t expect to find pieces from the 18th century. Most of them =
are safely tucked away in
collections.
  ---------------------------------------------------
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ted A Hart <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Thursday, January 14, 1999 10:53 AM
Subject: MtMan-List: Cast Iron pot seasoning


>I was wondering the best way of seasoning a cast iron pot because I =
cook
>with one and am wondering how to re-season it bec I lost the directions
>on how to do that. =20

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<HEAD>

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"" size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Here's an article=20
that a friend gave me about anything you want to know about cast iron, =
he deals=20
in old pieces and is very knowledgeable about cast iron, cooking, etc. =
You may=20
want to file this article away for reference.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Buck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"" size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>____________________________________________</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"" size=3D2>THE CARE & FEEDING OF CAST IRON<BR>by =
Brook &=20
Barbara Elliot</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"" size=3D2>We were coaxing a breakfast fire from wet =
wood after a=20
night of thunderstorms. Everything was soaked<BR>and sodden.<BR>A woman =
from=20
another camp, on her way to the hooters, stopped to watch us. For =
several=20
minutes she<BR>stared at our fireplace with a bemused look on her face. =
Finally,=20
she approached. "Did you keep your<BR>cookware in the tent last=20
night?" she wanted to know.<BR>It was our turn to look bemused. =
"Of=20
coarse not," we responded, "why do you ask?"<BR>Her reply =
really=20
set us to thinking. "You have the only pots and pans in camp that =
aren't=20
rusted from the<BR>storm."<BR>Looking around, we realized she was =
right.=20
That was several years ago, and nothing much has changed.<BR>At every =
event we=20
attend, if it rains, skillets, kettles, and Dutch ovens all around us =
take on a=20
red patina.<BR>Considering how much cast iron is used in living history =
camps,=20
its incredible how few re-enactors know how to care for it. Cast iron =
cookware=20
must be cured, and that cure maintained properly. If done correctly, the =
iron=20
will not rust, nor will food stick to it and burn.<BR>The curing process =
is=20
basically the same, whether you start with new or used cast iron. But =
there=20
are<BR>minor differences. Let's look at new cookware first.<BR>There are =
three=20
sources of new cast ironware. Two American companies --- Wagner and =
Lodge ---=20
still<BR>produce it. The rest comes from Asian sources. You are better =
off with=20
the American made goods, because they are finer grained. The imports, =
though=20
cheaper, have a course grain that is hard to cure, and which requires =
more=20
attention once it is cured.<BR>If you have a choice, avoid modern =
designs such=20
as self-basting lids. They are far from being period<BR>proper, and are =
more=20
difficult to care for, because steam, condensing in the depressions and =
on=20
the<BR>nipples, tend to draw out the cure. The result is rust on the =
inside of=20
the lid.<BR>Wooden handles, while acceptable, are not authentic. What's =
more,=20
they are likely to burn when used on an open fire.<BR>New iron has a =
protective=20
coating on it which must be removed. American companies use wax. =
The<BR>imports=20
are covered with a water soluble shellac. In either case, using straight =
hot=20
water, scrub the item<BR>with soap and a scouring pad. Use the hottest =
water you=20
can stand. Once all the coating is removed, you will never again let =
soap touch=20
the iron.<BR>Let's repeat that: Do not use soap on cured cast iron. the =
cure is=20
based on grease, and soap's job is to<BR>remove grease. So, if you use =
soap,=20
you'll be destroying the very effect you are trying for.<BR>As the iron =
comes=20
clean, immediately dry it and wipe a film of shortening over it. =
Originally,=20
lard was<BR>used for this purpose. But it has a tendency to turn rancid, =
so=20
shortening is a better bet.<BR>Heat your oven to 400 degrees, and put =
the pieces=20
in it for about an hour. Remove them, and blot up any puddles of oil =
with a=20
paper towel. Let the iron pieces cool. Do not be alarmed if, at this =
point, they=20
feel sticky. They'll lose that when the cure is complete.<BR>Cast iron =
makers=20
instruct that ware is now ready to use, but recommend that you use it =
only for=20
frying the<BR>first few times. We've found that oiling and heating at =
least one=20
more time before use makes more sense.<BR>For camp use, the iron is only =

partially cured at this stage. To complete the cure, build a high-flamed =

fire.<BR>Any fuel will serve, but<BR>avoid softwoods because they'll =
deposit=20
creosote on the iron, which is no good for you.<BR>Grease the iron on =
all sides,=20
fairly heavily, and sit it in the flames. When a good coating of soot =
has been=20
deposited, turn each piece and brush the sooty surface with more =
shortening. Be=20
sure to use a natural fiber brush for this, because synthetics will =
melt. At the=20
appropriate time, turn the pieces again, and grease the first side. =
Remove the=20
pieces from the fire, and let them cool.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D1><FONT size=3D2>Now comes the messy part. Liberally =
grease paper=20
towels and use them to wipe off the iron. Lots of soot will come off, so =
you=20
need plenty of towels. Try not to reapply this loose surface soot to the =

ware.<BR>Your iron should now have a deep, black finish that normally =
takes=20
months of use to acquire. What<BR>you've done is fill-in all the pores =
and voids=20
in the iron, creating a smooth, non-stick surface. In addition,<BR>the =
black=20
finish helps absorb and hold heat evenly.<BR>You can use the iron right =
now, or=20
clean it to remove additional soot. we always clean it, because we use =
the same=20
cast-iron pieces at home as in camp, and don't want the soot messing up =
the=20
kitchen stove.<BR>Properly cleaning cast iron is the secret of =
maintaining the=20
cure. Let us repeat: Do not use soap on cast iron, ever! Instead, all =
you need=20
is hot (the hotter the better) water and a scrub brush.<BR>Once again, =
use=20
straight hot water from the tap, or water you've heated in camp. Pour a =
small=20
amount (a cup or so) in the iron, and use the scrub brush to vigorously =
scour=20
all surfaces. Rinse the surface with more hot water. If you are =
concerned about=20
sterilization, pour boiling water into and over the iron after you have =
brushed=20
it.<BR>Immediately dry the iron, and wipe a thin film of shortening over =
it.=20
This replaces any you have lost<BR>through cooking and cleaning, and =
futher=20
assures there will be no rusting.<BR>Iron that’s been used on an =
open fire=20
will always have loose soot on the outside. Rather than dirtying the =
scrub=20
brush, we use one of those plastic pads instead. We keep them reserved =
for that=20
purpose, so the soot is not transferred to other cleaning =
products.<BR>In camp,=20
we only clean the insides of cast ironware. Then, before leaving, we =
wipe down=20
the outside with shortening soaked paper towels to remove the loose=20
soot.<BR>Used cast iron requires a different approach. Depending on =
where you=20
aquire it, you are likely to find it<BR>coated with everything from =
paint=20
(collectors are big on that), to crusted-on old food, to a thick coating =
of=20
burned lard.<BR>Much of this can be simply burned off by leaving the =
iron in a=20
very hot fire. We used to heat the iron,<BR>then plunge it into cold =
water.=20
This, in effect, steam-cleaned the iron. But the folks at Lodge warned=20
us<BR>against this practice, because it can cause the iron to warp and =
even=20
crack. We never had it happen, but why take the chance? Besides which,=20
we’ve found a better way.<BR>First, wash the iron in hot soapy =
water to=20
remove any loose crud. Then soak it in an acid bath.<BR>To create this, =
fill a=20
plastic drum with water, adding a quart of battery acid for each five =
gallons of=20
water.<BR>Let the iron sit for several days, checking it each day and =
mixing the=20
solution to assure fresh acid is<BR>against the iron each time. After =
three or=20
four days the iron should be ready to clean.<BR>At this point, follow =
the=20
directions for new iron. One caution: the paint can be real messy, and =
you=20
may<BR>want to work outside.<BR>The buckskinner who taught us this trick =
follows=20
up with a baking soda bath to remove any traces of acid.<BR>But =
we’ve=20
found that unnecessary, because you’ll be flushing it all out when =
you=20
wash it.<BR>Some old iron pieces will, after the soapy water wash, look =
like=20
new. Others will have stains that won’t<BR>come out no matter how =
hard you=20
scrub. Don’t worry about them, as the cure will cover and hide=20
them.<BR>Once the iron is clean, oil and cure it as usual.<BR>By =
following these=20
instructions, you’ll never again have rusted cookware, unless you =
let=20
rainwater sit in it for any length of time. Rain, almost everywhere in =
the=20
country, is now at least slightly acidic. If you let it sit in your =
iron, it=20
will eat through the cure and you’ll have rust. So be sure to =
drain and=20
dry any<BR>rain-soaked ironware as soon as possible.<BR>One final word. =
As you=20
search out old cast iron in flea markets, antique malls, and other =
locations=20
you’ll be shocked at how high the prices can be. Collectors have=20
skyrocketed the value of cast iron, especially that made by Griswold. So =
shop=20
carefully. Overall, you’ll find better bargains at flea markets =
and=20
auctions than you will in antique malls and shops.<BR>And don’t =
expect to=20
find pieces from the 18th century. Most of them are safely tucked away=20
in<BR>collections.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> =20
- ---------------------------------------------------</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: Ted =
A Hart=20
<<A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><BR>To: =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]=
</A>=20
<<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]=
</A>><BR>Date:=20
Thursday, January 14, 1999 10:53 AM<BR>Subject: MtMan-List: Cast Iron =
pot=20
seasoning<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>>I was wondering the best way of =
seasoning a=20
cast iron pot because I cook<BR>>with one and am wondering how to =
re-season=20
it bec I lost the directions<BR>>on how to do that. =20
</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01BE3FEE.EEF8C640--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 20:02:44 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

Ghosting Wolf
Many of the people on this list are personal friends and sometimes take =
advantage of the forum to pass a little harmless banter back and forth.  =
I really don't think that it is in e-mail clogging quantities but I, for =
one, am sorry it makes you sick.  This kind of exchange takes place from =
time to time with a variety of subjects and when a particuar subject has =
proven to have no interest for me I simply delete the posts in the =
thread as I come to them, never bothering to read them.  Until this =
current wave of droll comments to and about Texians (often with me as a =
target) comes to an end I suggest you do the same.  Maybe your complaint =
and this response will put the kibosh on the Texian thread and let =
everybody get serious....again.
Sincerely
Lanney Ratcliff, Texian


- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Thursday, January 14, 1999 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians


>What does all this Texian stuff have to do with this list? I'm getting =
pretty
>sick of my e-mail being clogged up with this stuff. Take it somewhere =
else,
>please. Thanks.
>
>Ghosting Wolf
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 99 21:02:24 -0500
From: Kirsten Smith and Tania Dopler <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Choice of words

Huzzah Angela

Once again with your excellent research and articulation you have quite
eloquently tackled this topic.  I have always found that word to be
distasteful since I grew up hearing the word as a put down for all Native
women.  It was used to put me down even though i am an aboriginal woman
who can pass easily for white.  It was no different for me than to hear
us also being called savages or to hear of anyone being referred to by
racist terms.  I do not believe in the censoring of language for the sake
of political correctness but i do believe in taking into consideration
the feelings of those you may be hurting with your words... since many of
us are not always easily identifiable as native, be aware of the fact
that by your choice of words you may be offering an insult to someone
whose background you may not fully know.

Your most humble and obedient servant

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 21:00:53 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 21:01:05 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Texians

we can only hope

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 19:14:48 -0700
From: "Scott Singer - \"Spinner\"" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re speech patterns

Damn right! I got to tell ye that the way I spell when I
trade email or chat online with me friends that rendezvous
ain't near like how I palaver with folks everyday.

(Translation:
Absolutely! I must agree, in that my manner of spelling
while conversing with my rendezvous companions in no way
reflects my normal patterns of speech.)

- ------------------------------------------------------------
- -
Scott Singer, aka "Spinner"
WWW Rendezvous Web Site:
     http://www.geocities.com/~wwwrendezvous
Territorial Dispatch/National Association of Buckskinners
Web Site
     http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4833
- ------------------------------------------------------------
- ---


- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Keller <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>
Date: Thursday, January 14, 1999 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re speech patterns


>
>A mans level of education probally had little to do woth
how he spoke.
>A man tends to use speech patterns to match the group he is
with.
>
>
>
>[e-mail] wrote:
>>
>> I would imagine that mountain man linguistics were based
on where
>they were
>> from,
>> their level of education, and general personality. Many
of the early
>trappers
>> were french or spanish, so I doubt they were saying
"larnin'" any
>more than
>> Kit Carson would say "Sacre Bleu!"  By nature and
pathology, human
>beans like
>> to label everything for identification - alas this also
extends to
>people, who
>> can be compartmentalized on their use (or abuse) of
language.
>Happily,most of
>> us can
>> diffentiate between what a person says and how he says
it.
>Literature does
>> not have the benefit of interpretive facial expressions
and body
>language, so
>> characters are painted more broadly, appealing to our
need to label.
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

End of hist_text-digest V1 #220
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