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hist_text-digest      Wednesday, December 9 1998      Volume 01 : Number 187




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 12:41:02 -0600
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fabrics 2

Andrea,

Nail was derived as a unit of measure based on the length of the forefinger
from the first knuckle to the end of the finger including the "nail". =20

A pretty handy unit for a seamstress or tailor to work with.

John...


At 10:42 AM 12/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Here is my second and final post on fabrics:
>
> For your first rectangle shirt, you may want to work with common fabrics
>readily available today and at reasonable cost.=A0 Among the choices are
>bleached and unbleached muslin.=A0 If you call around to your local fabric
>stores you might be able to locate some muslin in 36 inch widths which=
 means
>that you have the option of making your garment utilizing the selvages in=
 the
>seams (no seam finishing necessary!).=A0 Otherwise, muslin is commonly
available
>in 45 inch and sometimes 60 inch widths.=A0=20
>
> Possibly closest to original homespun in a modern-day fabric is Osnaburg
>cloth which should be located along with the muslins at your fabric trading
>post.=A0 Osnaburg is a coarse cotton cloth often made with part waste in=
 it,
>plain weave, medium to heavy in weight and resembling crash (are you still
>with me?) "Crash" is a coarse fabric having a rough irregular surface
obtained
>by weaving thick and uneven yarns.=A0 Back to Osnaburg=97it is sometimes=
 used
>unbleached for cement, grain and comparable types of containers.=A0=
 Personally,
>I like the rural, pastoral look of Osnaburg but I prefer to not wear it=
 next
>to my skin.
>
> It is important that you pre wash your yardage exactly as you intend to
>launder your finished garment.=A0 Your yardage will likely shrink pretty
>extensively with the first few washings.=A0 At least, run it through one
>complete laundering cycle before cutting out and sewing your garment. It is=
 a
>good idea to purchase some extra fabric to allow for pre wash shrinkage.
>
> I always purchase more fabric than I need for a project.=A0 So if you want=
 too
>much fabric I suggest you purchase at least 5 yards or more.=A0 The fabrics
>types we are discussing (above mention) can shrink a surprising amount in=
 the
>length of the goods.
>
> Here is something I came across in my research and I thought you might be
>interested: "Nail" was an archaic unit of measure representing 1/16th of a
>yard of fabric (2 and =BC inches).=A0 It is the exact length of a metal=
 nail used
>in building=97equivalent to the present-day 7d nail?=A0 The term "nail" was
>commonly used as opposed to inches.=A0 As I am thinking about it, nails=
 were
>hand forged by a blacksmith=97would that be correct?=A0 Please let me know.
>Thanks.
>
> I have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer:
>
>If I wear, say a size 10, how many individual skins of braintan would be
>required to make a vest, fringed jacket, and a dress (individually)?
>
>Can someone please direct me to the best source of braintan?
>
>What is the best means of cleaning braintan leather without ruining the
>texture?
>
>Is braintan purchased by the individual skin or other?=20
>
> Next time I will show you how to draft your own shirt pattern.=A0 Bye for=
 now.
>
>Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer=A0=A0 Sewing Design Company
>[e-mail]=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=20
>
>=20
>=20
John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0

Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>=20

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 13:45:19 EST
From: [e-mail] (Greg N Bosen Bosen)
Subject: MtMan-List: buffalo jacket

i have a buffalo hide that i'd like to make into a jacket. do any of you
have a pattern or a sorce of one?

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 11:08:45 -0800
From: Roger Lahti <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fabrics 2

> Andrea,

I used two brain tanned deer hides to make my wife's Plains Indian dress. She is a 6 or
8.
One for the front and one for the back. Some  dress patterns call for a third hide
across the shoulders. I think you could get a nice short vest from one large hide if you
cut carefully. The jacket will take close to three or four hides, the sleeves eat hides
like a pack of neighborhood dogs! If you are interested in purchasing hides, my friend
and AMM brother Mike Rider makes up some of the nicest hides I've ever seen and I will
give you his address off line if you contact me. I remain.....

YMOS
Capt. Lahti'

>
>
> If I wear, say a size 10, how many individual skins of braintan would be
> required to make a vest, fringed jacket, and a dress (individually)?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:39:10 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fabrics 2

Here are some answers to Andrea's questions on braintan....

Question: Can someone please direct me to the best source of braintan?

    Response: There is a list of over 40 brain tanners who sell finished
skins at www.braintan.com/resources/directory2.html. In my opinion the folks
tanning the very nicest brain tan are Doug Crist (Montana), Steven Edholm &
Tamara Wilder (California), Mac Maness (North Carolina) and ourselves
(Montana). (We are all equivalent in quality and prices). This is not to say
that this group is the best, just the best that I have seen. The general
quality level of braintan has been going steadily upwards in the last five
years. I am very familiar with nearly all brain tanners in the West. Back
east, I don't know them all. You can view our page on buying our braintan at
www.braintan.com/intro/buying.html

Question: What is the best means of cleaning braintan leather without
ruining the
texture?

    Response: Treat braintan like wool. Wash with natural soft soaps as they
won't strip the oils like detergents do (Ivory, Fels Naptha, White King or
home-made soaps are all good), and don't machine dry. If you machine dry all
the way until its dry, it will shrink considerably in the final stages (much
like wool)...your beautiful dress will then fit your 10 yr old far better
than yourself.

    Air dry your braintan the same way you do any clothes. Ideally you work
the hide a little bit in the final stages of drying. If you don't the
braintan dries a bit stiff like starched underwear, and then you just
manipulate it a bit to get it back to normal. (its really easy) At this
stage, your braintan will be basically soft as before, though the surface a
tad scratchier. To get the surface velvety soft again, rub lightly with a
piece of pumice or something similar.

    One of the great things about brain tan is how well it takes washing. It
doesn't break down the leather at all. My work breeches have been washed
over 100 times in a washing machine and are as soft as the day I made them.

    One last washing tip is this. If the hides are well tanned, ie quite
soft from the get-go, they wash and soften up easily. If they are marginally
tanned, meaning the tanner worked their butts off to get it soft enough to
sell (but wasn't really brained well), they will always be a hassle to
soften. So when you get hides, make sure they are thoroughly soft to begin
with.

Question: Is braintan purchased by the individual skin or other?

    Response: Every tanner I know sells by the skin. It is not practical to
cut up skins to sell parts of skins....though you will find folks who
sometimes conveniently have a scrap that is just the right size for what you
want, and will sell that to you.

Question: If I wear, say a size 10, how many individual skins of braintan
would be
required to make a vest, fringed jacket, and a dress (individually)?

    Response: For a size 10, it generally takes two hides for a vest, four
for a fringed jacket (fringe takes a lot), and two large hides for a dress.

    You may find it interesting to check out the photo's of some of what
Michelle (my wife) custom makes, at
www.braintan.com/buckskindesigns/toc.html . There are photos of a jacket,
vest, two dresses, and various satchels and pouches. There is also detail
shots of stitching and other decorative touches.

There is also a lot of detail on the ins and outs of working with and
washing braintan in the book 'Deerskins into Buckskins' (about 40 pages of
it is on this) by Matt Richards, and Wetscrape Braintanned Buckskin by
Steven Edholm and Tamara Wilder. You can see more on these books at
www.braintan.com/intro/recommended.html

Hope this helps,

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com
2755 Sinclair Creek Rd
Eureka MT 59917
406-889-5532

Use your brains at www.braintan.com for natural tanning
and leather resources, online articles, reviews, tools, books
and class schedules.
- -----Original Message-----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:50:34 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fabrics 2

This is a P.S. to the previous list of brain tanners I recommend. Here is a
list of other tanners who sell, who I would describe as tanning plenty good
buckskin (where as the previous list was the primo folks) include:  Molly
Miller, Michael 'Dirty Shirt' Ryder, Jim Miller, Charlie Trujillo, Jim
Riggs, David 'Sheom' Rose, Tom Orr.

Some folks who I assume also do good work, but I've never seen their hides
are: Larry Belitz, and the Dinsmores.

And again, this is just from folks' whose buckskin I am familar with, and
based on the last couple times I checked out their hides...things do change.

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com
2755 Sinclair Creek Rd
Eureka MT 59917
406-889-5532

Use your brains at www.braintan.com for natural tanning
and leather resources, online articles, reviews, tools, books
and class schedules.
- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 1:55 AM
Subject: MtMan-List: Fabrics 2


Here is my second and final post on fabrics:

For your first rectangle shirt, you may want to work with common fabrics
readily available today and at reasonable cost.  Among the choices are
bleached and unbleached muslin.  If you call around to your local fabric
stores you might be able to locate some muslin in 36 inch widths which means
that you have the option of making your garment utilizing the selvages in
the
seams (no seam finishing necessary!).  Otherwise, muslin is commonly
available
in 45 inch and sometimes 60 inch widths.

Possibly closest to original homespun in a modern-day fabric is Osnaburg
cloth which should be located along with the muslins at your fabric trading
post.  Osnaburg is a coarse cotton cloth often made with part waste in it,
plain weave, medium to heavy in weight and resembling crash (are you still
with me?) "Crash" is a coarse fabric having a rough irregular surface
obtained
by weaving thick and uneven yarns.  Back to Osnaburgùit is sometimes used
unbleached for cement, grain and comparable types of containers.
Personally,
I like the rural, pastoral look of Osnaburg but I prefer to not wear it next
to my skin.

It is important that you pre wash your yardage exactly as you intend to
launder your finished garment.  Your yardage will likely shrink pretty
extensively with the first few washings.  At least, run it through one
complete laundering cycle before cutting out and sewing your garment. It is
a
good idea to purchase some extra fabric to allow for pre wash shrinkage.

I always purchase more fabric than I need for a project.  So if you want too
much fabric I suggest you purchase at least 5 yards or more.  The fabrics
types we are discussing (above mention) can shrink a surprising amount in
the
length of the goods.

Here is something I came across in my research and I thought you might be
interested: "Nail" was an archaic unit of measure representing 1/16th of a
yard of fabric (2 and ╝ inches).  It is the exact length of a metal nail
used
in buildingùequivalent to the present-day 7d nail?  The term "nail" was
commonly used as opposed to inches.  As I am thinking about it, nails were
hand forged by a blacksmithùwould that be correct?  Please let me know.
Thanks.

I have a couple of questions I hope someone can answer:

If I wear, say a size 10, how many individual skins of braintan would be
required to make a vest, fringed jacket, and a dress (individually)?

Can someone please direct me to the best source of braintan?

What is the best means of cleaning braintan leather without ruining the
texture?

Is braintan purchased by the individual skin or other?

Next time I will show you how to draft your own shirt pattern.  Bye for now.

Andrea Moore, Sewing Designer   Sewing Design Company
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:55:31 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: buffalo jacket

I'd also be interested in knowing of any patterns or pattern sources for
buffalo hide jackets.

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com
2755 Sinclair Creek Rd
Eureka MT 59917
406-889-5532

Use your brains at www.braintan.com for natural tanning
and leather resources, online articles, reviews, tools, books
and class schedules.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg N Bosen Bosen <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 4:44 AM
Subject: MtMan-List: buffalo jacket


>i have a buffalo hide that i'd like to make into a jacket. do any of you
>have a pattern or a sorce of one?
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 14:51:42 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fw:

That useage would fit the context of the original note.  A damaged plew =
might have some value, but not as much a perfect one and would be listed =
separately.  Does that make sense to anyone else?
Lanney
- -----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Darilek <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fw:


>'Pinchon' or 'pincheon' might have been French word or slang.  But the
>closest my tourist French-English dictionary has is
>pincon (where the c has the curl under it) which is a bruise or mark
>(damaged plew?) or
>pince which can mean lobster or crawfish claw.
>
>Iron Burner
>
>Lanney Ratcliff wrote:
>
>> I think that is the critter!!!  That is the good news.  The bad news =
is that the 1828 Dictionary didn't list the thing.  Waugh!!
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John C Funk <[e-mail]>
>>=20
>> >Try...."pinchon" or "pincheon"????
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 18:40:53 -0500
From: "Fred A. Miller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: buffalo jacket

Greg N Bosen Bosen wrote:
>
> i have a buffalo hide that i'd like to make into a jacket. do any of you
> have a pattern or a sorce of one?

I don't sorry, but check with Bob at Thunder Ridge MZ here on the list.
If he doesn't have one, then check with Track Of The Wolf.

Fred

- --
"Slicker 'n Willie Lube".......and that's doin some!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 21:13:30 -0800
From: "Thomas W. Roberts" <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Horn

Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
to bring
the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
1800 grit and
it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
an appropriate
stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
thing and don't
want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
only horn,
wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
grease.

Thanks!

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 21:40:20 -0500
From: [e-mail] (Dennis Miles)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Tom,

 Why the worry?? I finished my buff horn scraping with a piece of glass, no
need to burnish, then just rubbed, and rubbed  and rubbed beeswax into it..
Turned out beautiful..

Dennis

   "Abair ach beagan is abair gu math e"
          DOUBLE EDGE FORGE
  Period Knives & Iron Accouterments
    http://www.wesnet.com/deforge1
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas W. Roberts <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 9:26 PM
Subject: MtMan-List: Horn


>Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
>to bring
>the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
>1800 grit and
>it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
>an appropriate
>stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
>thing and don't
>want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
>only horn,
>wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
>grease.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 20:41:01 -0600
From: Jim Colburn <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Announcement

Washtahay-
    As I discussed about 18 months ago, I have begun making drawings and
construction notes on items from my small personal collection of original
accoutremounts.  Drawings and notes completed to date include several
powder measures, and full size patterns and notes for two different hunting
pouches.
    Please inquire directly of me for particulars.
LongWalker c. du B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:25:41 -0700
From: "Matt Richards" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Announcement

Longwalker,
I'd like to learn more about your hunting pouch patterns....

Matt Richards
www.braintan.com
2755 Sinclair Creek Rd
Eureka MT 59917
406-889-5532

Use your brains at www.braintan.com for natural tanning
and leather resources, online articles, reviews, tools, books
and class schedules.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Colburn <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 1:08 PM
Subject: MtMan-List: Announcement


>Washtahay-
> As I discussed about 18 months ago, I have begun making drawings and
>construction notes on items from my small personal collection of original
>accoutremounts.  Drawings and notes completed to date include several
>powder measures, and full size patterns and notes for two different hunting
>pouches.
> Please inquire directly of me for particulars.
>LongWalker c. du B.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 22:30:14 -0500
From: "Fred A. Miller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

"Thomas W. Roberts" wrote:
>
> Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
> to bring
> the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
> 1800 grit and
> it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
> an appropriate
> stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
> thing and don't
> want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
> only horn,
> wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
> grease.

I'd seal the horn with a couple of coats of tongue oil, then wax it and
buff.  The maple plug looks good with a boiled hull black walnut stain,
then tongue oil to seal.

Fred

- --
"Slicker 'n Willie Lube".......and that's din some!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 22:33:23 -0600
From: "yellow rose/pendleton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Thomas,
  It depends on what kind of finish you want on your horn. I personally
like to start off with a dull finish on a horn, because it will take on a
shine with age and wear. On the other hand if you want start off with a
slick shiney finish you might try using some Tru-oil on it. It will give
you a real slick finish, but beware when it is finished and you take it out
for the first time that is as good as it will ever look. It is like using
some of these poly-base finishes on gun stocks. They look great when they
are new, but it is down hill from there. I have a buffalo horn that I am
very proud of. I scaped it down smooth, then used steel wool to burnish it
out. I took it out to 0000 steel wool. Then rubbed beeswax all over it, and
finally rubbed it down with burlap. Initially it was pretty dull looking
but as time has gone by it has taken on a really nice natural shine. You
just have to make a decision as to what direction you want to go.
Pendleton

- ----------
> From: Thomas W. Roberts <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: MtMan-List: Horn
> Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:13 PM
>
> Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
> to bring
> the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
> 1800 grit and
> it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
> an appropriate
> stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
> thing and don't
> want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
> only horn,
> wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
> grease.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 22:45:13 -0600
From: "yellow rose/pendleton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

I forgot to mention the stain on the butt plug. I don't know if I would use
a nitric acid stain on a horn, but I'll tell you what will work real nice.
Take a plug of chewing tobacco and tear it up into a pint jar. Then fill
the jar with household ammonia. Put a lid on it and forget about it for a
couple of weeks. This makes a fine stain for maple.
Pendleton

- ----------
> From: yellow rose/pendleton <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn
> Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 10:33 PM
>
> Thomas,
>   It depends on what kind of finish you want on your horn. I personally
> like to start off with a dull finish on a horn, because it will take on a
> shine with age and wear. On the other hand if you want start off with a
> slick shiney finish you might try using some Tru-oil on it. It will give
> you a real slick finish, but beware when it is finished and you take it
out
> for the first time that is as good as it will ever look. It is like using
> some of these poly-base finishes on gun stocks. They look great when they
> are new, but it is down hill from there. I have a buffalo horn that I am
> very proud of. I scaped it down smooth, then used steel wool to burnish
it
> out. I took it out to 0000 steel wool. Then rubbed beeswax all over it,
and
> finally rubbed it down with burlap. Initially it was pretty dull looking
> but as time has gone by it has taken on a really nice natural shine. You
> just have to make a decision as to what direction you want to go.
> Pendleton
>
> ----------
> > From: Thomas W. Roberts <[e-mail]>
> > To: [e-mail]
> > Subject: MtMan-List: Horn
> > Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:13 PM
> >
> > Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
> > to bring
> > the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
> > 1800 grit and
> > it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking
for
> > an appropriate
> > stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
> > thing and don't
> > want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far,
it's
> > only horn,
> > wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of
elbow
> > grease.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Tom
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 21:59:08 -0600
From: "Lanney Ratcliff" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Dang right, Thomas.  Larry 's horn is prime....he should be proud.  It's =
even more handsome than a Tandy kit.=20
Lanney Ratcliff
- -----Original Message-----
From: yellow rose/pendleton <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn


>Thomas,
>  It depends on what kind of finish you want on your horn. I personally
>like to start off with a dull finish on a horn, because it will take on =
a
>shine with age and wear. On the other hand if you want start off with a
>slick shiney finish you might try using some Tru-oil on it. It will =
give
>you a real slick finish, but beware when it is finished and you take it =
out
>for the first time that is as good as it will ever look. It is like =
using
>some of these poly-base finishes on gun stocks. They look great when =
they
>are new, but it is down hill from there. I have a buffalo horn that I =
am
>very proud of. I scaped it down smooth, then used steel wool to burnish =
it
>out. I took it out to 0000 steel wool. Then rubbed beeswax all over it, =
and
>finally rubbed it down with burlap. Initially it was pretty dull =
looking
>but as time has gone by it has taken on a really nice natural shine. =
You
>just have to make a decision as to what direction you want to go.
>Pendleton
>
>----------
>> From: Thomas W. Roberts <[e-mail]>
>> To: [e-mail]
>> Subject: MtMan-List: Horn
>> Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:13 PM
>>=20
>> Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate =
technique
>> to bring
>> the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up =
to
>> 1800 grit and
>> it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking =
for
>> an appropriate
>> stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
>> thing and don't
>> want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, =
it's
>> only horn,
>> wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of =
elbow
>> grease.
>>=20
>> Thanks!
>>=20
>> Tom
>>=20
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 23:09:46 -0500
From: [e-mail] (Dennis Miles)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Larry,
 Ammonia?? I'll be damned..I have alwys just used the juice outta my can I
keep in the shop for the purpose, then mix it with warm linseed...I will
have to try the ammonia..What does it do? Make it richer?? Deeper??
Dennis

   "Abair ach beagan is abair gu math e"
          DOUBLE EDGE FORGE
  Period Knives & Iron Accouterments
    http://www.wesnet.com/deforge1
- -----Original Message-----
From: yellow rose/pendleton <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn


>I forgot to mention the stain on the butt plug. I don't know if I would use
>a nitric acid stain on a horn, but I'll tell you what will work real nice.
>Take a plug of chewing tobacco and tear it up into a pint jar. Then fill
>the jar with household ammonia. Put a lid on it and forget about it for a
>couple of weeks. This makes a fine stain for maple.
>Pendleton
>
>--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 23:21:43 -0500
From: "Fred A. Miller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Dennis Miles wrote:
>
> Larry,
>  Ammonia?? I'll be damned..I have alwys just used the juice outta my can I
> keep in the shop for the purpose, then mix it with warm linseed...I will
> have to try the ammonia..What does it do? Make it richer?? Deeper??

Ammonia can cause problems if you finish the wood...DON'T use it!  Warm
"boiled" linseed poured over chewing 'backy will produce a fine stain
that will penetrate well into the wood, as will a black walnut hull
stain.  You make the later with as little water as possible, strain it
well, then boil it till it's BLACK.  You then can cut it with water,
alcohol, turp, etc. for application.

Fred

- --
"Slicker 'n Willie Lube".......and that's doin some!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 08:45:52 -0500
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: buffalo jacket

David Montgomery's book "Mountainman Crafts and Skills" has patterns for
coats.  They are easy to follow and very basic in instruction.  Check
Horizon Publishers in Bountiful, Utah.  LOC catalog# 80-82706.
Chases Hawks

Greg N Bosen Bosen wrote:

> i have a buffalo hide that i'd like to make into a jacket. do any of you
> have a pattern or a sorce of one?
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 08:55:35 -0500
From: [e-mail]
Subject: MtMan-List: buffalo coat

Another source for coat construction would be "Dress and Equipage of the
Mountain Man" by Jeff Hengesbaugh and Wes Housler.  They can be reached
@ Rocky Mtn. College Productions   22 Bell Canyon Rd.  Cloudcroft, NM
88317
Chases Hawks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 09:00:16 -0500
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Horn

Tom,
   I used a couple of coats of automotive wax on my buffler horn to bring
out a shine and walnut hulls for a brown dye/stain on my plug.  The type of
wax might not be true for the time,  but the stain shure is!

Thomas W. Roberts wrote:

> Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
> to bring
> the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
> 1800 grit and
> it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
> an appropriate
> stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
> thing and don't
> want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
> only horn,
> wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
> grease.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom

------------------------------

Date: 09 Dec 98 21:53:43 -0700
From: Phyllis and Don Keas <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: Horn

Just get a piece of wood and rub the horn with it.  Be surprised how it
will shine up.

DON AND PHYLLIS KEAS ---LIving History Consultants

Thomas W. Roberts wrote:
>Okay, who would be so kind as to advise me on an appropriate technique
>to bring
>the lustre on a buffalo powder horn.  I've rubbed it all the way up to
>1800 grit and
>it's slicker than elk snot, but still quite dull.  Also, I'm looking for
>an appropriate
>stain to darken a maple butt plug.   I've got a lot of hours in this
>thing and don't
>want to screw it up by using the wrong method or material.  So far, it's
>only horn,
>wood, beeswax (as a sealer where plug and horn meet), and lot's of elbow
>grease.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>
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