> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:53:15 EDT
From: TetonTod@aol.com
Subject: MtMan-List: Roger's Daybook
Thanks to Jim, Pat, and Clay for the info on daybook entries. It makes more
sense now. That "tin striker" still puzzles me. Keep wondering if he was
refering to a tin striker box? But if so, why wouldn't he have said as much?
Hmmmm
I agree, the sheep must have been Bighorn. Interesting that they had leegings
on hand. Must have purchased them at Rendezvous from the Indians along with
other tanned sheep skins.
You're right Clay, daybooks make for some facinating research. Well I
remember your presentation at the symposium '97. How's the book coming?
Thanks all
Todd D. Glover
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:28:10 -0400
From: sean@naplesnet.com (Addison O. Miller)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Parts needed
Thanks for all the advise guys! I finally got ahold of Thunder Ridge and
got the lock for the Traditions and installed it. Fits great!! Now I
justneedthe touch hole liner... Thanks again
Addison Miller
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 20:05:48 -0500
From: "Jody Carlson" <sjsdm@conpoint.com>
Subject: MtMan-List: Christian Royal Rangers group for boys?
Hello the List;
I was wondering if any of you could give me some information on a group for
kids which I believe was called the Royal Rangers. If I remember
correctly, it was a group somewhat like the Boy Scouts which combined
living history with our kind of woodslore for boys in their teenage years.
It was also Christian based which, is a plus, and appeals to me more than
the baloney I've been hearing about the BSA the last few years.
I have been searching the net, but to no avail. Could somebody out there
help me out? My kids are a little young at the moment, but in a few
years....
In advance I thank you,
Scott
sjsdm@conpoint.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:07:38 -0700
From: "Terry Landis" <landis1@gte.net>
Subject: RE: MtMan-List: Roger's Daybook
possibly a tinder striker? my 2 cents worth.
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com
[mailto:owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of TetonTod@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 9:53 AM
To: hist_text@xmission.com
Subject: MtMan-List: Roger's Daybook
Thanks to Jim, Pat, and Clay for the info on daybook entries. It makes more
sense now. That "tin striker" still puzzles me. Keep wondering if he was
refering to a tin striker box? But if so, why wouldn't he have said as much?
Hmmmm
I agree, the sheep must have been Bighorn. Interesting that they had
leegings
on hand. Must have purchased them at Rendezvous from the Indians along with
other tanned sheep skins.
You're right Clay, daybooks make for some facinating research. Well I
remember your presentation at the symposium '97. How's the book coming?
Thanks all
Todd D. Glover
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:30:31 -0600
From: jbrandl@wyoming.com (Joe Brandl)
Subject: MtMan-List: buffalo hides
I have just finished tanning the rest of my buffalo from last year. WE have
several hides that have rub marks on the hips and shoulders. Good winter
robes but not perfect. Most are cows, therefore a lot lighter than the bull
hides. Ave sq ft is 40 to 45. I want to move them,
so......................for $300 to $400, I will select the poorer ones for
$300 and the better ones for $400. Every hide is guarenteed. If you don't
like it, just return it within 15 days for your money back. All hides have
a lifetime cleaning and reconditioning.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Joe
Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery
Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440
Write for custom tanning prices
We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and
hair on robes
Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets
check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:15:52 -0400
From: "Fred A. Miller" <fmiller@lightlink.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Christian Royal Rangers group for boys?
Jody Carlson wrote:
>
> Hello the List;
>
> I was wondering if any of you could give me some information on a group for
> kids which I believe was called the Royal Rangers. If I remember
> correctly, it was a group somewhat like the Boy Scouts which combined
> living history with our kind of woodslore for boys in their teenage years.
> It was also Christian based which, is a plus, and appeals to me more than
> the baloney I've been hearing about the BSA the last few years.
>
> I have been searching the net, but to no avail. Could somebody out there
> help me out? My kids are a little young at the moment, but in a few
> years....
Scott, go to their web site at: http://www.clcchurch.org/rrpage.html.
GOOD group, by the way!!
Best,
Fred
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 03:33:30 -0500
From: MacRaith@mail.swbell.net
Subject: MtMan-List: pipestone
I was recently given a piece of pipestone for a pipe bowl. I've read
that the material was often shaped by scraping with knife blades. I
can't make a dent in this stuff with a horseshoe rasp much less a
knife. What's the trick?
Bill "Chases Hawks" Vannoy
MacRaith@SWBell.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 22:46:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lee Newbill <lnewbill@uidaho.edu>
Subject: MtMan-List: Cannons amongst John Works Snake Expedition 31-32
Good Day
Came across a reference about a cannon bursting during a skirmish
between John Work's Snake expedition and a band from the Blackfeet tribe.
Date is about Jan 30 1932. Checked Dean's site, but unfortunately, the
journal from that time frame doesn't mention this.
Does anyone know what kind of cannon he had?
Regards
Lee Newbill
Viola, Idaho
email at lnewbill@uidaho.edu
Keeper of the "Buckskins & Blackpowder!" Webpage
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/7186
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 01:32:24 EDT
From: RR1LA@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: pipestone
Bill, Sounds like you got hold of 'ironstone' LOL. you need Catlinite, which
is usually pink to orange and sometimes mottled with white. Also known as the
indurated variety of Red Silicious Clay, it is USUALLY workable with the most
primitive of tools. As with all minerals, sometimes there are aborations in
hardness, graining, etc. yhs, GunShot
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 03:16:12 -0500
From: Jeff Powers <kestrel@ticon.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: pipestone
On 1998-09-22 hist_text@lists.xmission.com said to kestrel@ticon.net
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-SBIS-NC404 (Win95; U)
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Sender: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com
>Precedence: bulk
>Status:
>I was recently given a piece of pipestone for a pipe bowl. I've
>read that the material was often shaped by scraping with knife
>blades. I can't make a dent in this stuff with a horseshoe rasp
>much less a knife. What's the trick?
>Bill "Chases Hawks" Vannoy
>MacRaith@SWBell.net
the pipestone I've carved was 3-4 days out of the ground and carved like
soapstone when I started it like granite a year later when I finished it.
I think you got some that has been out of the groung to long,the only things
I've found that work it then are silicon carbide and diamond tools.
Jeff Powers,Rogue & Ne'er do Well
"They make no scruple to break wind publickly" Fr.Louis Hennepin 1698
Net-Tamer V 1.08.1 - Test Drive
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 98 04:23:49 PDT
From: "Jerrys" <Jerrys@starcomm.net>
Subject: MtMan-List: Fur Trappers
Where can I purchase commercial brain tanned deer and or elk hides at =
a reasonable price ?
also I am still looking for the definition of the term " pinchon ",the =
word was used in relation with fox in an artical by Gary Lantz.iin the =
outdoor oklahoma march/april 1997 "
His source was Pioneer days in the early southwest by Grant Forman =
. Forman took the term from the records of the CHOUTEAUS shipping furs =
and hides from eastern Oklahoma in the late 17 ,earley 1800s........thank=
s Jerry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:16:02 -0600 (CST)
From: mxhbc@TTACS.TTU.EDU (Henry B. Crawford)
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Waxing gourds
>Henry,
>Jon told me to write you on how to finish a gourd to carry water.
>Do you need to seal the inside someway.
>I was thinking of using beeswax and brewers pitch after I clean them out.
>What do you use, or your thoughts on this matter?
>Thanks for you help.
>
>"Pockets"
>A.K.A.
>Matt Mitchell
>Palouse Hills Muzzleloaders
>Moscow, Idaho
>travel@turbonet.com
>
> "They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist---"
> General John B. Sedgwick's last words, 1864
Matt,
"Uncle John" Sedgwick forgot that a good sized general makes a good sized
target for rebel snipers.
I'm going to pass this on to the list in case anyone else wants to get into
gourds. I have a pretty decent crop on the vine now. With our changes in
weather lately, being much cooler than normal in the evenings, they should
be ready to harvest by November. It's best to wait till after the first
frost. I don't pick them till the stems are completely dry. We're
expecting an early winter.
In answer to your question, gourds should be lined with some kind of wax,
not just as a water seal, but to improve taste. I usually use a craft wax
that looks like sculptor's wax that I get at Hobby Lobby, but I suppose any
wax will do. Most craft stores carry what I use. Bee's wax might be more
flexible with less potential for cracking in winter.
As for technique, I pour hot wax into the gourd after seeds and as much
inner skin, etc. as possible have been removed. Don't worry about hard to
reach spots because a couple to three coats of wax will cover what's left
behind. Also, there is no need to pre-heat the gourd, because the hot wax
will do that on the first pouring, and pre-heating might cause too much of
the wax to settle, instead of sticking on the wall. The hot wax will
automatically regulate the temperature of the gourd. Pour the wax into the
gourd without letting it overflow. I'd leave the upper chamber empty (if
using bottle/birdhouse gourds) to avoid overspilling. Better to use gloves
because soon the gourd will get quite warm. They also protect you if wax
spills on your hands. I also use a photographic tray to avoid spilling on
my counter top. Newspaper is fine, but you want to catch spilled wax to
use it again.
After filling, pour out the wax back into the pot to be used again. Wax
can be recycled as long as it's clean. *IMPORTANT-Pour while rotating the
gourd so that all sides of the area near the opening are coated.* Wait
about a minute or so, then pour more wax into the gourd. Repeat the
procedure as many times as you need to. The more pourings, the stronger
gourd you end up with. Be careful not to reduce the capacity of the gourd.
3-5 pourings would be optimum.
As the gourd is used, the wax on the opening will wear away, especially if
you use a cork. I wouldn't worry about that unless it maked your water
taste really bad. If that happens and you want to fix it, let the gourd
air dry for a few days. (never reheat a waxed gourd unless you want to
start the coating procedure all over again.) Dip the mouth into a pot of
hot wax momentarily and set aside for a minute. Two dippings should give
you a satisfactory coating on the gourd mouth. You may have to re-fit a
new cork.
And speaking of corks. They do tend to break, especially after repeated
opening and closing. Always check your corks and replace fatigued, worn,
and cracked ones. If your opening is sized for them, wine bottle corks are
great because they are very high quality. I try to make my gourd openings
to fit wine bottle corks. In spite of their quality, they will also crack
eventually. Corks tend to fray on the wet edges because that deterioriates
the material. That is a good sign to start finding a replacement. You can
rotate a cork and use the other end, but that is only a short term
solution. Better to replace it sooner than later. There's nothing so
disconcerting as half a cork floating inside your perfectly made gourd.
One more thing, then I'll shut up. Never store an empty gourd with the
cork on. Corks need to dry so that mold and bacteria don't break it down.
It's organic, which makes it highly suceptible to decay in a moist
environment. Allow them to air dry after events.
Any questions??
Cheers,
HBC
*****************************************
Henry B. Crawford Curator of History
mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University
806/742-2442 Box 43191
FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191
WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
****** Living History . . . Because it's there! *******
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:44:13 -0600 (CST)
From: mxhbc@TTACS.TTU.EDU (Henry B. Crawford)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Buckskin Coats
John,
Eagle's View and Green River Forge both have frock patterns that can be
adapted for leather. In fact, the Eagle's View pattern (#692 in Townsend's
catalog 18) for the rifleman's frock has specific instructions for making
it from leather or buckskin. Let me know how yours comes out. I'm
planning to do the same thing. I need additional leather for the sleeves.
Cheers,
HBC
>Ho the List
>
>I am currently researching buckskin hunting frocks and would like to make
>myself one. I am intersted in making an indian style buckskin coat.
>
>I have "The Frontier Rifleman" by Richard B. La Crosse, Jr. and the Mountain
>Man Sketchbooks by Hanson. I cannot get the patterns showing the coats
>attributed the Indians to work. I make very small models
>
>Has anyone made such a coat or hunting shirt ? What type of research did you
>use? Does any one know where I can get any useful patterns etc.
>
>Thank you all very much for your time
>Watch your topknot
>John Seminerio
*****************************************
Henry B. Crawford Curator of History
mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University
806/742-2442 Box 43191
FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191
WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
****** Living History . . . Because it's there! *******
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:26:26 -0700
From: Roger Lahti <lahtirog@gte.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Fur Trappers
Jerry,
Try Mike Rider at:208-265-4862, 290 Gold Creek Rd., Sandpoint ID.83864. He tans deer and sells commercially. His hides are second to none! I remain...
YMOS
Capt. Lahti'
Jerrys wrote:
> Where can I purchase commercial brain tanned deer and or elk hides at a reasonable price ?
> also I am still looking for the definition of the term " pinchon ",the word was used in relation with fox in an artical by Gary Lantz.iin the outdoor oklahoma march/april 1997 "
> His source was Pioneer days in the early southwest by Grant Forman . Forman took the term from the records of the CHOUTEAUS shipping furs and hides from eastern Oklahoma in the late 17 ,earley 1800s........thanks Jerry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:04:15 EDT
From: TetonTod@aol.com
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: pipestone
Bill,
All the pipestone (Catlinite) I've ever worked was fairly soft and easily
worked with a knife. Once I was told to store the stone in water until ready
to work. I'm not sure if this was to keep it from cracking or to keep it soft
enought to work. However, even after a number of years my pipebowls are still
easily carved. Are you sure it's pipestone and not some kind of soapstone?
Todd D. Glover
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 09:35:32 -0500
From: Jim Colburn <jc60714@navix.net>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: pipestone
Washtahay-
At 03:16 AM 10/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I was recently given a piece of pipestone for a pipe bowl. I've
> >read that the material was often shaped by scraping with knife
> >blades. I can't make a dent in this stuff with a horseshoe rasp
> >much less a knife. What's the trick?
> >Bill "Chases Hawks" Vannoy
> >MacRaith@SWBell.net
>the pipestone I've carved was 3-4 days out of the ground and carved like
>soapstone when I started it like granite a year later when I finished it.
>I think you got some that has been out of the groung to long,the only things
>I've found that work it then are silicon carbide and diamond tools.
When all else fails, soak it in water for a while-maybe as much as a year.
It works, and its traditional (or at least is what I was taught when I did
an apprenticeship of sorts in pipemaking). I'd suggest keeping it from
freezing, for fear of expansion cracks-but I don't know if this is necessary.
LongWalker c. du B
------------------------------
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