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hist_text-digest        Saturday, June 20 1998        Volume 01 : Number 089




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:01:28 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Patch Lube / BP Cleaner

At 12:44 PM 6/16/98 -0600, Charlie P. Webb wrote:

> =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 The water soluble oil is actually very similar to=20
>some of the available lubricants used thru the mid 1700's through
>the 1860's=A0=20

I am curious as to specifically which lubricants you refer to. =20

The earliest reference to a W.S.O. I've found speaks of saponifying mineral
oil
with alkali soap and water to produce a Water Soluble Oil.  An early 20th
century technique with a petroleum base oil.  I have found no early=
 references
to this technique being used with lard oil or any other oil.

John...

John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0
=20
Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<<http://www.kramerize.com/>http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>=20

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 16:42:26 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist

At 12:58 PM 6/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>At 12:16 AM 6/17/98 -0400, DCard wrote:
>>John, I have always had the utmost respect for your knowledge
>>of the old ways, but my respect has way increased upon discovering
>>that you use bear sperm for patch lube.=A0 I don't even want to know
>>how you come by this substance, but suffice it to say that I am
>>impressed!
>>
>>
>>> In silver tip country I load 105 gr. FF under 14 - 00 buck size swan=
 shot
>>> under
>>> a (bear/sperm oiled) patched .69 round ball for wading.=A0 Ain't that=
 much
>>> fun to
>>> shoot, up close it never misses.
>DCard,
>
I thought maybe this could use a little more elaboration.

Why is sperm oil the best?

Because of its oxidizing qualities, or lack thereof.=A0 Sperm oil never=
 really
dries out and barely thickens on long exposure to air.=A0 Jojoba is next=
 best in
this quality.=A0 Bear oil is real good.=A0 They both cling well to metal=
 surfaces.

Paul Jones may have had a good idea about mixing them, extending the little
sperm oil available by diluting with bear oil, perhaps improving the=
 qualities
of the bear oil.=A0 I may have to try it.

The reason this is an advantage is I can lube up strips of patch cloth and=
 cut
buckskin wads (cut squares of scrap strung on a rawhide thong hanging off=
 the
side of my pouch) ahead of time and not worry about them drying out, always
having a light oiled patch or shot wad that never fouls the powder.=A0 I=
 just
whack off what I need as I need it and use it with no further prep.=A0 I als=
o
use
them to wipe the gun down.=A0 Keeps patch and wadding handy, ready to use.=
=A0 When
used to lube moving metal parts the oil stays where it is needed and is=
 little
effected by time, temperature or exposure to air.

I suggest the use of jojoba not because it was used during the period but
because it is derived by methods used during the period for processing=
 similar
materials.=A0 It is a pressed or extracted oil processed much like linseed.=
=A0 It
is not a new chemical concoction though it wasn't extracted and its=
 properties
examined until about 1920.=A0 The harvesting of sperm whales should no=
 longer be
done and this provides a simple one to one substitution with the next best
thing.=A0 One compromise to help preserve a specie should not beget an=
 anything
goes attitude.

Sweet oil, linseed oil, whale oil, bear oil or the rendered fat of any=
 animal
could also be used.=A0 They are not as suitable because they do oxidize more
rapidly and can gum up the works.=A0 Some more quickly than others.

Other period terms for sperm oil are cetaceum and spermaceti.

John...

John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0
=20
Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<<http://www.kramerize.com/>http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>=20

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 07:17:10 -0700
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
Subject: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

Specifically to John K,

Last week I was in Portsmouth, Va and stopped in a rere book store. Thought
you'ld be interested in a hand written journal from 1810 I found (but did
not buy) there. It is a Journal type book (originally sold with blank
pages), hand written, lists recipied for paints, varnishes, stains,
cleaners etc... The asking price was $150 U.S.. Out of my budget. I know
I'll regret not picking it up so here's the next best thing...

I'll get the adress to anyone interested in making this purchase on the
condition that they transcribe the info found within and publish it to this
list, I'm sure we can all benefit.

If no one responds, I'll mull it over and if I decide I can no longer live
happily without it I'll have to start saving my Halfpennies. Then, yes,
I'll be happy to do the transcribing.

There was another book, similar, but bound in vellum, with recipies for
food and liquor mixes. the list on that was $165 U.S. and dated 1796, I
believe

Vic

Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin

AMM #1534 Three Rivers Party
"Aux aliments du pays!"

Booshway of the Powderhorn Clan of Arizona
Celebrating our 50th anniversary 1948-1998

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 05:43:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist

John:  I thought "spermaceti" is the white waxey substance taken from the=20
head cavity of the sperm whale.  Was used for pharmacuticals, etc.  I have=
=20
about a pound.  The sperm whale oil I have is rendered, and is a clear=20
liquid.  Ron Harris and I purchased a gallon some time back.  You are very=
=20
correct, it is an excellent lube, and does not seem to dry out.  Regards, =
=20
Paul =20



>Because of its oxidizing qualities, or lack thereof.=A0 Sperm oil never=
 really
>dries out and barely thickens on long exposure to air.=A0 Jojoba is next=
 best in
>this quality.=A0 Bear oil is real good.=A0 They both cling well to metal=
 surfaces.
>
>Paul Jones may have had a good idea about mixing them, extending the little
>sperm oil available by diluting with bear oil, perhaps improving the=
 qualities
>of the bear oil.=A0 I may have to try it.
>
>The reason this is an advantage is I can lube up strips of patch cloth and=
 cut
>buckskin wads (cut squares of scrap strung on a rawhide thong hanging off=
 the
>side of my pouch) ahead of time and not worry about them drying out, always
>having a light oiled patch or shot wad that never fouls the powder.=A0 I=
 just
>whack off what I need as I need it and use it with no further prep.=A0 I=
 also
>use
>them to wipe the gun down.=A0 Keeps patch and wadding handy, ready to use.=
=A0 When
>used to lube moving metal parts the oil stays where it is needed and is=
 little
>effected by time, temperature or exposure to air.
>
>I suggest the use of jojoba not because it was used during the period but
>because it is derived by methods used during the period for processing=
 similar
>materials.=A0 It is a pressed or extracted oil processed much like=
 linseed.=A0 It
>is not a new chemical concoction though it wasn't extracted and its=
 properties
>examined until about 1920.=A0 The harvesting of sperm whales should no=
 longer be
>done and this provides a simple one to one substitution with the next best
>thing.=A0 One compromise to help preserve a specie should not beget an=
 anything
>goes attitude.
>
>Sweet oil, linseed oil, whale oil, bear oil or the rendered fat of any=
 animal
>could also be used.=A0 They are not as suitable because they do oxidize=
 more
>rapidly and can gum up the works.=A0 Some more quickly than others.
>
>Other period terms for sperm oil are cetaceum and spermaceti.
>
>John...
>
>John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0
>=20
>Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<
>
><<http://www.kramerize.com/>http://www.kramerize.com/>
>
>mail to: <[e-mail]>=20
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 11:08:47 -0600 (CST)
From: [e-mail] (Henry B. Crawford)
Subject: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube

John, and the list,

What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods
outside the Rondy era?  What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that
would work.  You know those chambers get warm in the summer and I've had a
heck of a time keeping them sealed on hot days.  When the revolver is in
it's holster on my belt, the chambers are pointing down and if the grease
is melted and flowing, out it comes.  I've had a few chain-firings that
way.  I'd like to use some substance that would seal the chambers and not
leak out.  It should also lube the bore when fired.  For now I use oiled
wonder wads, but they're expensive.  Who's got another idea?  Is beeswax a
good choice?  Does it lube the bore?

Thanks,
HBC

*****************************************
Henry B. Crawford        Curator of History
[e-mail]     Museum of Texas Tech University
806/742-2442           Box 43191
FAX [phone]             Lubbock, TX  79409-3191
               WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
******  Living History . . . Because it's there!  *******

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 13:01:50 -0600
From: [e-mail] (Charlie P. Webb)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Patch Lube / BP Cleaner

 John Kramer > writes:

 Charlie P. Webb wrote:
>> The water soluble oil is actually very similar to
>>some of the available lubricants used thru the mid 1700's through
>>the 1860's
>I am curious as to specifically which lubricants you refer to.

Howdy John K,
What I meant specifically was WSO works as a patch lube in
muzzle loading firearms, its characteristics when used for this
purpose are very similar  to "Whale oil"  and animal rendered
oil such as bear.  I have used both whale sperm and bear oil
off and on since 1947,  In my firearms (some original some
replicas)  there is little if any difference between patches lubed
with  sperm  oil, bear oil,  jojoba or WSO.  The accuracy of a
a  firearm is not one bit better when sperm oil is used as a patch
lube than it is with WSO or one of the many other lubes folks
sing the praises of.  As a oxidation or rust prevention  WSO
is a poor choice, here the sperm oil etc. shine.  For Target
shooting I get more and quicker fouling   using sperm oil etc.
because a thin film of oil/ grease is deposited to the
walls of the barrel bore  as the patch/ball combination is
firmly seated on the powder. When fired the residual oil/grease
seem to collect and hold the crud. This is no problem when
hunting,  and I do use them for that purpose.  After a target
relay of five shots the fouling must be wiped out.  WSO  or
"Moose Milk"used as a patch lube does not  do this.  The
ring of fouling just above the chamber also does not occur.
I apologize for confusing the the issue,  I simply was
referring to WSO/Moose Milk as being similar in use as a
patch lube to  the known lubes from the 1700s thru the 1860s.
Jojoba  has worked  well for me, how ever I have no source to replenish
what little I have on hand.  I  just don't know where
to get it here in Colorado.  I have rendered bear oil myself
over the years and used it,  and  also have a gallon or so of
Whale oil that I horde. After many thousands of rounds in
competion  and time spent testing,  I find as a patch lube they
have no greater merit than "MooseMilk".
    The closest thing that I have found to matching
whale oil is a lube called Ballistol,  in use it even feels a lot
like whale oil.  It is supposed to have been developed in
Germany around the turn of the century.  I  have not
concluded testing it as a patch lube,  but it does look
promising.  In the few months I have been using it as a
gun lube, it has not dried out  and no rust can be detected
inside or out.  Plus that, it is bio-degradeable.
     Again I am sorry when writing  my post, I diden't
make myself understood.   Hope all have a good day, keep
your powder dry, regardless of what patch lube you use,
and thank the lord for hind sights!
Respectfully,

C Webb
CC CO

>The earliest reference to a W.S.O. I've found speaks of saponifying
>mineral
>oil
>with alkali soap and water to produce a Water Soluble Oil.  An early
>20th
>century technique with a petroleum base oil.  I have found no early
> references
>to this technique being used with lard oil or any other oil.
>
>John...
>
>John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0
>=20
>Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<
>
><<http://www.kramerize.com/>http://www.kramerize.com/>
>
>mail to: <[e-mail]>=20
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:15:38 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

At 07:17 AM 6/19/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Specifically to John K,
>
>Last week I was in Portsmouth, Va and stopped in a rere book store. Thought
>you'ld be interested in a hand written journal from 1810 I found (but did
>not buy) there. It is a Journal type book (originally sold with blank
>pages), hand written, lists recipied for paints, varnishes, stains,
>cleaners etc... The asking price was $150 U.S.. Out of my budget. I know
>I'll regret not picking it up so here's the next best thing...
>
>I'll get the adress to anyone interested in making this purchase on the
>condition that they transcribe the info found within and publish it to this
>list, I'm sure we can all benefit.
>
>If no one responds, I'll mull it over and if I decide I can no longer live
>happily without it I'll have to start saving my Halfpennies. Then, yes,
>I'll be happy to do the transcribing.
>
>There was another book, similar, but bound in vellum, with recipies for
>food and liquor mixes. the list on that was $165 U.S. and dated 1796, I
>believe
>
>Vic
>
>Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin
>


Vic

Pretty sneaky way to try and get someone else to do a transcription.

Of course I'm interested in the book, send the address.  I'll just not promise
when I'll get it done.

John...

Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
John Kramer  <[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:49:24 -0600
From: [e-mail] (Joe Brandl)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

I would be interested, how do we do this?
Joe

Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery
Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440
Write for custom tanning prices
We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and
hair on robes
Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets
check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 16:51:36 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube

At 11:08 AM 6/19/98 -0600, Henry Crawford wrote:
>John, and the list,
>
>What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods
>outside the Rondy era?=A0 What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that
>would work.=A0 You know those chambers get warm in the summer and I've had=
 a
>heck of a time keeping them sealed on hot days.=A0 When the revolver is in
>it's holster on my belt, the chambers are pointing down and if the grease
>is melted and flowing, out it comes.=A0 I've had a few chain-firings that
>way.=A0 I'd like to use some substance that would seal the chambers and not
>leak out.=A0 It should also lube the bore when fired.=A0 For now I use=
 oiled
>wonder wads, but they're expensive.=A0 Who's got another idea?=A0 Is=
 beeswax a
>good choice?=A0 Does it lube the bore?
>
>Thanks,
>HBC
>
>*****************************************

Henry,

Chainfires may have been part of the thrill and excitement of owning a
revolver.  Though the Colt Paterson was introduced before 1840, I've not had
much to do with BP revolvers. =20

I have not encountered an old recipe specifically to address this
application.=20
I have heard that a little corn meal on top of the powder can help prevent
chainfire. =20

Lead has been used as a lubricant though it builds up in a bore without=
 other
lubricant to ease passage of the ball.  White lead would work well (like
machinists used to use), really hard to find, really dangerous to handle.  I
can tell you how to make it; if you're interested; I, strongly, don't
recommend
it.  Other sulfate metals could also be added to tallow as a lube most all
provide some level of poison hazard in handling.

Beeswax would lube -- but in pure form might be difficult to pack tight in=
 the
cylinder.  If you melted a little rendered lard or bear oil in with the
beeswax
it would soften it enough to pack well, but it might not solve the melting
problem on a hot day. =20

If a little hard soap like lye were added it might raise the melting
temperature enough to keep the lube in place.  A little pure carnauba wax
(1850's) would also raise melting temperature.

It will take some experimenting to get just the right consistency for ease=
 of
application and resistance to melting in the holster.

I'd probably start with 1 part fine rendered lard to 3 parts beeswax to 1/8
part carnauba or 1/2 part hard soap.  Melt together in a double boiler. =
 Pour
into tins to cool.  Make small batches and experiment until you achieve the
performance level desired.  Carnauba will be more difficult to get to fuse
than
soap.

To make a double boiler for this type of experimentation I would suggest a
large and small tuna fish can with a 3/4 coil of heavy wire laid in the=
 bottom
of the larger can to elevate the small one allowing a full water jacket=
 around
the inner can containing the working materials.  It would best be done in a
fire safe area, the kitchen is only recommended if you are seeking domestic
discord.

Good Luck,

John...

Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
John Kramer  <[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:50:53 -0500
From: John Kramer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist

At 05:43 AM 6/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
>John:=A0 I thought "spermaceti" is the white waxey substance taken from the=
=20
>head cavity of the sperm whale.=A0 Was used for pharmacuticals, etc.=A0 I=
 have=20
>about a pound.=A0 The sperm whale oil I have is rendered, and is a clear=20
>liquid.=A0 Ron Harris and I purchased a gallon some time back.=A0 You are=
 very=20
>correct, it is an excellent lube, and does not seem to dry out.=A0=
 Regards,=A0=20
>Paul=A0=20
>
>
Paul,

Sperm oil is supposed to be the same as spermaceti.  Sperm whale oil is
rendered from blubber.  Sperm oil is the higher grade though the whale oil=
 is
mighty fine stuff.    I suspect much of what was sold over the past 50 years
was sperm whale oil labeled sperm oil.  I think most real sperm oil went to
Naval Stores and Swiss watchmakers who really knew the difference.  What=
 I've
had is a fairly dark liquid with a distinct aroma.

The material was widely used in pharmaceuticals and many industrial and
consumer products.  Even used for sealing wax. =20

Never having killed a whale I am relying on reading, what I've been sold,=
 and
what I've been told, I know the most desirable oil came from a gland area in
the head, the old references consider sperm oil and spermaceti the same.  So
either the gland contains both wax and oil or the oil was rendered from the
wax. =20

In one of those libraries I no longer have access to; I seem to remember
reading the oil was drawn off first and used as collected without other
processing.

John...

John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0
=20
Kramer's Best Antique Improver
>>>It makes wood wonderful<<<
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<<

<<http://www.kramerize.com/>http://www.kramerize.com/>

mail to: <[e-mail]>=20

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:59:26 -0700
From: Dale Nelson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube

Henry B. Crawford wrote:
>
> John, and the list,
>
> What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods
> outside the Rondy era?  What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that
> would work.

Water pump grease -- hard to find now days, but works great.  I would
suspect that the real old time long fiber axel grease would also work,
and I think the closest you can find of that stuff is cable grease that
they smear on cables and running riggin' etc.
                DN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 18:49:15 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube(chainfire myths)

HBC writes:
> > I've had a few chain-firings that way.=A0

and John Kramer answers=20
>  Chainfires may have been part of the thrill and excitement of owning a
>  revolver.  Though the Colt Paterson was introduced before 1840, I've n=
ot
had
>  much to do with BP revolvers.  =20
>  I have heard that a little corn meal on top of the powder can help pre=
vent
>  chainfire.=20

Guys,
Yer barkin' up the wrong tree.  This is a common misconception about BP
revolvers.  Chainfires are not caused by an improper seal at the FRONT of=
 a BP
revolver.  Rather they are caused by using the wrong sized caps, not havi=
ng
them firmly seated, or having worn nipples.  When you fire a chamber, the=
 ball
is propelled forward and some of the explosion exits backwards through th=
e
nipple.  This flame will ignite the adjacent cylinders if any of the abov=
e
conditions exist, and they can jump from cylinder to cylinder igniting th=
em
all.  Generally, any chainfired balls will exit harmlessly if the gun is
pointed safely.  The exception is the cylinder in the 6 o'clock position =
as it
has no place to exit.

The lube you put in the front of each cylinder is only that.  It goes int=
o the
barrel and lubricates the ball.

Dave Kanger
New Listowner
Muzzleloader Mailing list

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:47:01 -0700
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

John,

I apologize. Joe's message came through to me first. It would be less than
fair to offer it to the second. I did refer the original message to you
from your obvious wealth of previous info. If the information contained
within those pages is what you are after and not the collectability of the
work, then may I suggest we let Joe see his quest through. however. If you
are indeed interested in the book itsself, then Joe may wish to defer to
you the pleasure of the purchase and trascription in favour of procuring a
similar book  that I mentioned before which is more food oriented, one page
of which is a recipie for a drink with oranges rum and whiskey if my mind
serves me. that was the one which is bound in white vellum, same area of
the store.

We'll get this worked out gents, although that poor bookstore may not know
how to handle it's newfound business

Sneaky, me? perish the thought. I do however look forward to the
transcription of two books now....

Vic


>Vic
>
>Pretty sneaky way to try and get someone else to do a transcription.
>
>Of course I'm interested in the book, send the address.  I'll just not promise
>when I'll get it done.
>
>John...
>
>Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without.
>John Kramer  <[e-mail]>


Vic Nathan Barkin, CGCM
Printing and Reproduction Services Manager
NAU Publication Services
Box 4101, Flagstaff, AZ 86011
520-523-6160
[e-mail]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:35:35 -0700
From: Vic Barkin <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

Alright Joe you responded first so you got the nod. The address is

Smithfield Rare Books
429 High Street
Portsmouth, Va 23704
[phone]

The book can be described as follows since they don't have a cataloging system

On the right hand wall of the store when facing the front door
halfway across and halfway down, in the rare book section
Handwritten text from 1810, with marbled cover that has a slight tear in
the front.
about 7 x 9 inches, maybe 100 pages
Contains recipies for such things as Milk Paint, Varnish etc...
Has a price of $150.00 listed on the inside cover (light pencil)

finding two such books matching that description would surprize the hell
out of me.

I completely trust than no one else will impede on your progress in this
endeavor as we are all men of honor.

Let us all know of your progress.

Godspeed

Vic


>I would be interested, how do we do this?
>Joe
>
>Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery
>Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440
>Write for custom tanning prices
>We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and
>hair on robes
>Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets
>check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka


Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin

AMM #1534 Three Rivers Party
"Aux aliments du pays!"

Booshway of the Powderhorn Clan of Arizona
Celebrating our 50th anniversary 1948-1998

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:34:03 GMT
From: [e-mail] (PHIL PETERSEN)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: alum tanning

Gary, If you will do as they say it works.  I have had my share of success
doing as they say.  I have also asked more than my share of questions.  They
are great people to talk with and know their business.

Phil

>Gary, If you decide to give it a try and have any questions, feel free to
>write and ask.
>         Longtrail
>
>
>
>                   O   Sundog Traders    O
>
>                      Joseph Dinsmore, M.T. & Victoria Longtrail D.
>                                     POB 182   Winnett, Montana    59087
>                            406-429-7828   or   [e-mail]
>
>
>                                        Brain Tanning
>                                   Less Instruction With More Results
>                                                            by
>                                   Joseph Dinsmore & Victoria Longtrail D.
>
>
>!.  Flesh the deer hide.  All you are concerned with is getting the meat
>and fat off.  Then place the hide in water and soak over night.  Make sure
>the hide   is completely soaked. ( the greener the hide the easier to
>dehair)
>
>2.  Dehairing :   Take the hide out of the water and place it over a beam
>and dehair.  The objective here is to get the brown layer (epidermis)  off.
>Keep in mind the fresher the hide the easier it is to dehair.   If you are
>using a "flint" or dried hide  with the hair still on, soak it overnight
>and flesh it again and you will notice the hide whitening out as you flesh.
>When done, throw it back in the water overnight. It soaks much faster.
>Dehair the next day.
>
>3.  This is what I call pre-braining.  Its better to  pre-brain the hide
>after you dehair while the hide is still pliable rather than letting it go
>to rawhide.  After you de-hair the hide put the hide in either an old brain
>solution or a new one.  If it goes to rawhide, soak overnight in cold water
>and then stretch by hand.  You will see the hide whitening out (not
>totally).   The objective here is to open the pores ( don't work all day it
>only takes a couple of minutes)  A metal strapping band ( the kind used to
>bundle wood with) works the best for me.   You can soak the hide  in the
>brain solution for as little as twenty minutes or over night.  I prefer
>over night.  Brain solution recipe is at the end of the article.
>
>4.  After pre-braining take the hide and hang it out to dry.  Its not
>necessary to wring out the hide  Don't fold the hide on itself, prop it
>open with sticks or whatever, or hang it straignt up and down.
>
>5.  Soak the dried hide in COLD water over night.  Lace the hide on a
>frame, this is the pre-stretching phase. ( I emphasize cold water because
>the hide is plyable enough to put on the frame and whiten out.)  Before I
>begin staking the hide, I sew all the holes.  I do it at this point because
>then there is no pucker, I use artificial sinew (personal preference).
>All you are trying to do is whiten the hide out by staking it.   The
>weather dictates how often the hide needs to be staked (remember, your not
>trying to soften it your just trying to whiten it).   In recent experiments
>it seems to stake out better when working side to side rather than up and
>down.  You will notice that when staking the hide, it sometimes starts  to
>soften up, if you like, keep working it, I don't.
>
>6.  Pre-smoking.    After the hide is whitened and dried out, smoke it.  If
>you think about it, if a white buckskin is smoked and gets wet, it softens
>back up with very little work.  Why can't you  do it a pre-stretched hide!
>I smoke the hide for three hours in a smoke house. (its nothing more than a
>box made of four sheets of 4X8 plywood  and a roof.)  I hang my hides
>horizontal about three foot from my smoke pot.  The thing to keep in mind
>is don't bake the hides. Keep a warm smoke (punky cedar is in my
>experience, the best wood to use but you can use any kind of punky wood.)
>
>7.  After smoking, put the hide back in the brain solution.  I leave the
>hide in it for thirty minutes to an hour.  Take it out and rub it over the
>band (I do this to make sure that there are no hard spots in the hide, if
>there are hard spots, then soak it a bit longer.)  Put it back in the brain
>solution, you can either leave it for three hours or over night.
>
>8. Take the hide out of the solution, it is your choice of either putting
>it through clothes wringer which is what I use, or wringing it out in any
>method you choose.   At this point I most often lace the hide onto the
>frame and work it soft and dry.  Usually the hips, rump and neck are the
>last to dry.   Don't stop working on the hide untill those spots are dry
>and softened or they will harden in the middle.  If at any time you have to
>stop working on the hide, you can freeze it wrapped in a plastic bag until
>you can get back to it. It requires  you to be lazy. Not real lazy. It IS
>possible to overwork the hide.
>
>Brain Solution Recipe:   One cow brain, two gallons of water.  Make it look
>like a weak campbells tomato soup but don't eat it.  Heat the solution
>until warm, NOT hot. The beauty of this pre-smoking method is that you can
>tan more hides with one cow brain.  You will notice if you use this same
>solution (add more water when needed) the hides will get easier and easier
>to sofen out and the solution smells more like smoke than brains.
>Sometimes I have to add another cow brain depending on how much additional
>water I have added.  I have found that rain water works best when making
>the brain solution.  Any kind of chemical in the water, such as chlorine
>seems to have an adverse effect.  I have done as many as twenty-two to
>twenty-four hides with two cow brains.
>
>Feel free to call or e-mail with any questions you may have.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 15:48:38 EDT
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book

Hey John

I volunteer to transcibe ten (10) pagesof your books if you buy them.  Send me
some copies if possible.  Find 20 more volunteers and the jobs will be done.

thanks
js

------------------------------

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