Am searching for anyone who can put me in contact with re-enacters or groups in the pacific nw who are involved in rendevous and such. Fur traders, mountainmen, etc. Trying to establish if possible, a rendevous at our 360 acre private campground/resort in eastern Washington. If you can help I'd sure appreciate it.
- --
This e-mail was generated from the world-wide web; the e-mail address
"Tish Tower <LTower2075@aol.com>"
may be incorrect.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 14:11:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Lee Newbill <lnewbill@uidaho.edu>
Subject: MtMan-List: Clearwater Hats Address
On Fri, 27 Feb 1998, zaslow wrote:
> I may have missed it, but could you give me the address & phone # for
> Clearwater (if you have it handy?) I would like to get a new hat in the furure.
Since I just ordered one, I gots everything handy....
URL is: http://www.clearwaterhats.com/
Address is: Clearwater Hat Company
HC 73 Box 646
Newnata AR 72680
Phone: (870) 746-4324
Email burton@mvtel.net
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 16:26:37 -0600 (CST)
From: mxhbc@TTACS.TTU.EDU (Henry B. Crawford)
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: (Gourd Canteens)
>After reading all the different responses something came to mind and
>thought I would throw it out for some correct answers.
>
>Have several gourd canteens, and they really make the water taste BAD.
>Is there anything that can be used to coat the inside and make the water
>not taste bad. Have tried melted bees wax, only marginally successful,
>needed to be re-applied after several uses. Have talked with several
>paint stores and none of them have any paints that they think you can
>safely drink after having water sat on it awhile.
>
Well, Tim, I never tried beeswax, but regular parafin works for me and
leaves no bad taste. The trick is (after the gourd has been cleaned out)
to pour melted wax into the gourd a couple of times to get at least two
layers of wax down. To test the wax barrier, after the gourd cools, pour
some water into it and leave it overnight. Drink the water the water the
next day. It might taste a bit stale because it sat for several hours, and
a very slight hint of gourd taste might remain, but that should not
overpower the taste of the water itself.
Try it.
HBC
*****************************************
Henry B. Crawford Curator of History
mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University
806/742-2442 Box 43191
FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191
WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum
************* So Long, Harry **************
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 18:10:58 EST
From: ThisOldFox <ThisOldFox@aol.com>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Sawing off a CVA barrel
Monty writes:
> Next question. I have a CVA Mountain rifle. It is percussion and I
> want to convert to flintlock. Do I simply remove the drum and replace it
> with a touch-hole liner and add a flintlock or is it more complicated
> than that?
I have converted a couple of CVA Kentuckys from percussion to flint. It can
be relatively simple, with provisions.
Call CVA and see if you can obtain the lock. They have many different ones
for several applications. I bought mine direct for $59.95 each from CVA and
paid by credit card. Service within one week.
Going from percussion to flint is different than converting the other way.
The hammer can be bent to hit the nipple. With a flint conversion, the lock
will probably be in the wrong place and the touch hole will not line up with
the pan. Some minor inletting will be required to fit the new lock. Mine
took about a half hour each.
The threads for the drum are metric, something like 10 X 1.25 mm. To make
your own touch hole liner, obtain a bolt with the above size threads, about 2
inches long. If you have a drill press, chuck the head of the bolt in your
drill vise, and either countersink the threaded end, or choose a drill size
just slightly smaller than the bolt and make a counterbore with it. This will
give you a coned touch-hole liner, not a necessity but will give faster
ignition.
Now screw the bolt into the hole. The way CVA's are drilled, it will probably
stop in the right place. Don't force it. Run your ramrod down the barrel to
make sure it isn't protruding into the barrel. When it is properly placed,
cut off the head of the bolt and file the liner flush with the barrel.
Install the lock, open the frizzen, and lay a centerpunch into the valley of
the pan. Try to center it in the valley and approximately level with the top
of the pan, but not higher. Tap it to mark where you should drill. Remove
the barrel and drill the hole. It will probably not be in the center of the
liner. This is OK, but if it is off-center, try to drill the hole at a slight
angle to come out in the center of the cone inside. There are various
recommendations for the hole size. I always tend to go a bit large. Some of
the smaller holes will give ignition problems, especially when drilled off-
center.
I did one conversion with hand tools and one with a drill press. Both worked
out well and took about the same amount of time. ( a couple of hours from
start to finish)
I looked high and low for brass or stainless bolts to make the liners from,
and went a specialty hardware supplier to no avail. I then went to a Yamaha
motorcycle shop and talked to one of their mechanics. He had a stainless bolt
in his toolbox junk drawer which he sold to me for a buck. It was long enough
to make 4 liners. This is not a hard conversion, provided CVA sells the lock
you need, and can be readily done by a mechanically inclined novice.
